Lugu Lake 泸沽湖
October 29, 2024
We hired a private driver through Ctrip.com for a two-day trip……
我们通过携程网预订了为期两天的泸沽湖和玉龙雪山包车游。。。
October 29, 2024
We hired a private driver through Ctrip.com for a two-day trip to Lugu Lake and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The typical itinerary starts with visiting Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on the first day and Lugu Lake on the second. However, the main cable car to the summit was closed for scheduled maintenance today but would reopen tomorrow. We asked the driver to adjust the schedule to visit Lugu Lake first, and he happily agreed.
The drive to Lugu Lake involved winding roads and ups and downs through the mountains. The scenery along the way was beautiful. We arrived at the Lugu Lake Scenic Area after noon and paid the entrance fee.
The driver took us to a traditional restaurant to try steamed fish. The food was excellent, though the restaurant’s facilities were a bit outdated.
After lunch, the driver drove us around the lake, stopping at several spots for photos. The lake was picturesque, but it didn’t leave a particularly strong impression on us. While the Mosuo people, often referred to as the “Kingdom of Women,” inhabit this area, we didn’t notice any significant cultural differences during our visit. The driver had arranged for us to visit a Mosuo museum, but the staff required a promise to purchase their jewelry instead of paying a standard entry fee. This odd request felt overly commercialized and diminished the cultural significance of the experience for us. We didn’t go to the museum.
Our B&B was a popular spot featured frequently on social media. Both the lobby and rooftop were beautifully set up for photo opportunities, attracting many visitors.
After booking this trip, we were informed that we needed to secure cable car tickets for the next day’s visit to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain at exactly 8 p.m. These tickets were in high demand, and without them, we wouldn’t be able to access the mountain. We had entered all the required information in advance and clicked the booking button right at 8 p.m. However, within just a minute or two, all the tickets were sold out. We were deeply disappointed and frustrated at the thought of missing out on the mountain. But just as we informed the driver of our unlucky situation, our daughter noticed three tickets had reappeared online. She quickly snagged them, and we were overjoyed to have secured our tickets. We ended the day with excitement and relief, looking forward to tomorrow’s adventure at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
2024年10月29日
我们通过携程网预订了为期两天的泸沽湖和玉龙雪山包车游。按照常规行程，第一天通常安排游览玉龙雪山，第二天游泸沽湖。然而，由于今天通往玉龙雪山主峰的索道因例行维护暂停开放，需等到明天才恢复运行。我们与司机商量后决定调整行程，先游览泸沽湖，他欣然同意了调整。
前往泸沽湖的路途蜿蜒曲折，沿途山路起伏，虽行车时间较长，但风景极为秀丽，青山绿水令人陶醉。中午过后，我们到达泸沽湖景区，购买门票进入。司机推荐了一家传统餐馆，让我们品尝摩梭族特色的汽蒸鱼。鱼的味道十分鲜美，但餐馆的设施略显陈旧，服务也有待改进。
午餐后，司机载我们环湖游览，在多个景点停下拍照。走婚桥，草海等等，我们都来个到此一游。包车的好处是可以按照自己的意愿选择景点及停留的时间。泸沽湖的湖面宁静而清澈，倒映着蓝天白云。景色虽美，但或许是因为期待过高，并未给我们留下特别深刻的印象。泸沽湖是摩梭族的聚居地，被誉为“女儿国”，但我们未能从旅途中感受到浓厚的文化氛围。司机还联系了一家摩梭博物馆，原本想让我们参观，但对方要求我们必须承诺购买他们的首饰，而不是支付正常的门票费用。我们认为这种要求过于商业化，令人反感，因此放弃了参观。
当天入住的民宿是一个社交媒体上非常热门的网红打卡地。民宿就在湖边，无论是大厅还是屋顶，都经过精心布置，充满了适合拍照的特色场景，吸引了不少游客驻足拍照。
晚餐去了一家网上评价不错的餐馆，口味，环境和服务都非常满意。
在预订此次行程时，我们了解到需要在晚上8点准时抢购第二天前往玉龙雪山的索道票。索道票非常紧俏，没有票就无法进入雪山核心区域。为了确保顺利登山，我们提前录入了所有必要信息，并在晚上8点整准时点击抢票。然而，仅仅一两分钟，数千张门票就被抢光。看到这一结果，我们倍感失望和沮丧。不上索道此次玉龙雪山之行也就没什么意义了。然而，就在我们向司机诉说这一遗憾时，女儿突然发现系统中又跳出了三张余票，她迅速抢下了票。确认成功后，我们低落的情绪也瞬间转为欣喜，对第二天的玉龙雪山之旅充满了期待。
Travel to Lijiang 前往丽江
October 28, 2024
Before heading to Lijiang,……
今天在前往丽江之前，。。。
October 28, 2024
Before heading to Lijiang, we visited the 斗南 Flower Market in Kunming. The market was stunning, with a vast selection of various flowers. Inspired, we decided to send a package of flowers to our parents in Shanghai. We purchased two types of flowers but were shocked to discover that we couldn’t mail them due to restrictions related to the ongoing Shanghai export exhibitions. Left with no choice, we returned the flowers to the vendors and paid a small fee for the return.
Later, we boarded the high-speed train from Kunming to Lijiang, which took about three hours. Since our rental was located inside Lijiang Old Town, our host met us at the town gate and transported our luggage on a scooter, which was quite convenient given the old town’s layout.
For dinner, we enjoyed a wild mushroom hot pot with grilled beef on the side. The meal came with a unique precaution: we had to wait 15 minutes for the wild mushrooms to be fully cooked, and a small sample of the soup was taken for safety records. Once ready, the flavors were incredible.
After dinner, we visited the town square to watch the local traditional dance performance, but the area was overcrowded and felt disorganized. Deciding it wasn’t worth the hassle, we returned to our rental to relax and unwind for the evening.
2024年10月28日
今天在前往丽江之前，我们先去了昆明的斗南花卉市场。这里鲜花种类繁多，色彩绚丽，令人目不暇接。我们想给父母寄一盒鲜花作为礼物。我们精心挑选了两种鲜花，却在邮寄时被告知因为即将进行的上海进博会，无法将鲜花寄往上海。无奈之下，我们只好将鲜花退回给商家，并支付了一点退货费用。
从昆明到丽江的高铁，全程大约三小时。由于我们的住宿位于丽江古城内，出租车不能进，而高低不平的街面行李箱无法拖着走。房东在古城入口处接我们，并用电动三轮车将行李运送到住处。小三轮在古城狭窄的街道中显得尤为方便。
我们的民宿闹中取静，现代化的设施和古典民宿相结合，很雅致。老板娘态度非常好，办理入住手续时又是鲜花饼，又是热茶，很暖心。
入住后我们赶紧前往古城的四方街广场观看当地的传统篝火舞蹈表演。然而，广场人头攒动，显得有些混乱，不够尽兴。
晚餐我们品尝了野生菌火锅，还搭配了烤牛肉。这顿饭有一道特别的程序：因为有些野生菌是有毒性的，桌上放了计时⌛️器，野生菌需要等待20分钟煮熟，服务员还取了一小勺汤样留存备案。等到野生菌完全煮好后，我们才开吃，同时也慢慢放入其它食材。各种菌子味道鲜美无比，令人回味。烤肉也相当不错，照片都来不及拍便一扫而光。
Lao-China Railway 中老铁路
October 27, 2024
We embarked on a journey from Luang Prabang to Kunming,……
我们从老挝琅勃拉邦乘坐中老铁路（LCR）前往中国昆明,。。。
October 27, 2024
We embarked on a journey from Luang Prabang to Kunming, China, via the Lao-China Railway (LCR). This travel route was carefully planned as an opportunity to try a unique means of crossing the border into China. The idea of experiencing this relatively new railway was intriguing, and we looked forward to the adventure.
Before heading to the train station, we witnessed the almsgiving ceremony once more. On our way back, we stopped at the morning market and indulged in a fried cake reminiscent of a childhood treat—a delightful way to start the day.
The drive to the train station, however, was less pleasant. The road was extremely bumpy, as though the train station had been built without considering infrastructure upgrades for access. Upon arrival, our driver dropped us off at the ground-level parking lot. With the elevators and escalators out of service, we had no choice but to lug our bags up the stairs—a less-than-ideal beginning to our railway experience, especially for a station only a few years old.
The train itself, operated by the Yunnan Railway Company, was fully booked. We traveled in a first-class cabin predominantly filled with foreigners carrying bulky luggage that cluttered the hallways. The remaining seats of other coaches were occupied by Chinese tourists. The total journey time was approximately seven hours, including one hour border procedures at both the Laos and China checkpoints.
The border crossing was a tedious process. At the Laos checkpoint, we had to disembark with all our belongings, exit the station, and pass through Laos customs and immigration before re-boarding. Shortly after, the train stopped at the Chinese border station, where we repeated the process. Chinese customs, however, were significantly slower, taking about 40 minutes. By the time we cleared the formalities, we were the last passengers to rejoin the train. While the train ride itself was smooth and enjoyable, the inefficient border procedures made the experience far from seamless. This was enough to dissuade us from attempting another cross-border train journey in Asia.
Arriving in Kunming, however, made up for the challenges of the day. The city’s clean streets and pleasant atmosphere left us with an excellent first impression, making us eager to explore its charm.
2024年10月27日
我们从老挝琅勃拉邦乘坐中老铁路（LCR）前往中国昆明，旨在尝试一种独特的跨境方式。中老铁路作为一条较新的线路让人颇感好奇，我们对这次体验充满期待。
出发前，我们再次观看了清晨的布施仪式。和昨天一样，僧侣们的钵盆迅速装满米饭，然后就倾倒进街边设置的垃圾桶中，这一幕真的让人不忍心。等到仪式结束我们才看到这些食物并未被浪费，而是由组织者和小贩重新销售，这才让我们稍稍宽慰了一些。然而，这种对神圣传统的过度商业化，整个仪式像是一场为游客安排的表演，而非真正的宗教实践让人感到心情沉重，不禁思索：在这个受旅游业深刻影响的时代，是否还有未被改变的纯粹传统？
返回途中，我们在早市停留，品尝了一种油炸小点心，味道让人想起童年的记忆。
前往火车站的路途并不那么顺利。路面颠簸不平，仿佛火车站修建时并没有考虑道路的升级。到达后，司机将我们放在地面停车场。由于电梯和自动扶梯都无法使用，我们不得不提着行李爬楼梯——对于一个才启用几年的车站来说，这是一次不尽如人意的开始。
高铁由云南铁路公司运营，我们乘坐的是一等座车厢，车厢满员。我们因为不是起点站上车，又正好有一组老挝学生去中国，已经几乎包了我们整节车厢，我们上车时行李架早已被大量行李占满，大件行李将过道都堵得水泄不通，感觉不是很舒适。从琅勃拉邦到昆明的总旅程时间约为七小时，其中包括在老挝和中国边境各一个小时的通关手续。
边境通关过程既繁琐又耗时。在老挝边检站，我们需要携带全部行李下车，经过老挝的海关，办完出境手续后再返回列车。上车不久列车抵达中国边检站，我们再次重复这一过程。然而，中国的通关效率更低，当我们完成入境手续返回列车时，已经是最后一批乘客。尽管列车运行平稳，服务也还不错，但边境通关的低效让整个体验远非无缝顺畅。这次经历也让我们以后不太愿意再尝试亚洲的跨境列车了。
到达昆明之后，等办完酒店入住手续就已经是晚餐时间了。去了前台推荐的一家本地餐厅，终于吃上了美味地道的中国菜，好好地享受了一下。
昆明的美丽弥补了旅途中的种种不如意。整洁的街道和宜人的氛围给我们留下了极好的第一印象，让人迫不及待地想探索它的魅力。
Luang Prabang, Lao 琅勃拉邦
October 26, 2024
Chenggang was abruptly awakened at 4:30 AM by……
清晨4点半，被主街上传来的喧闹音乐声惊醒。。。
October 26, 2024
Chenggang was abruptly awakened at 4:30 AM by loud music from the main street. Curious, Chenggang got up to investigate and discovered that an annual running race was scheduled to start at 5:30 AM—a surprisingly early time for such an event. As he wandered the streets, he noticed an endless line of empty small stools neatly arranged along the sidewalks. Vendors were persistently trying to sell him sticky rice and candy, which seemed odd at first.
It soon became clear that these offerings were for the alms-giving ceremony, a sacred tradition deeply woven into Luang Prabang’s culture for centuries.
By around 6:00 AM, the monks began emerging from the temples and nearly every stool along the street was occupied not by locals but by tourists—approximately 90% of them Chinese. Initially moved by what appeared to be a spiritual exchange, Chenggang soon felt disheartened as the ceremony unfolded. The monks, their alms bags and bowls quickly filled, dumped sticky rice and candies into large containers set along the street.
At first, the sight of food being discarded deeply upset him. Later, he learned that the collected food wasn’t wasted but was instead resold by organizers and vendors, a revelation that brought some solace. Still, the over-commercialization of such a sacred tradition left Chenggang with a heavy heart. The ceremony felt more like a staged performance than a genuine spiritual practice. As he walked back, he reflected on whether any truly authentic traditions remained in a world increasingly shaped by tourism.
Before returning to our B&B, we climbed Mount Phousi for a panoramic view of the city. Back at the B&B, the host had prepared a simple but satisfying breakfast. Outside, a bustling morning market offered an array of goods, from fresh seafood to vibrant produce, immersing us in the local culture.
Our day had only just begun as we joined a guided trip to explore a Hmong village, Kuang Si Waterfalls, and Pak Ou Caves.
At Kuang Si Waterfalls, we were enchanted by the multi-tiered cascades and turquoise pools. Though we had brought swimsuits, we chose not to swim, opting instead to hike up to the summit. There, we enjoyed a tranquil moment at the café, surrounded by breathtaking views.
Lunch was served in a serene garden café, where the simple, delicious meal was made even more special by the opportunity to feed bananas to an elephant. Playing with this gentle giant was a highlight of the day.
After lunch, we boarded a boat to visit Pak Ou Caves, limestone grottoes filled with thousands of Buddha statues. While the caves were intriguing, a brief stop at a whiskey factory afterward felt like a waste of time, as neither of us are alcohol drinkers.
The best part of the tour came as we cruised back to the city along the Mekong River. The setting sun bathed the landscape in golden hues, and we witnessed one of the most breathtaking sunsets of our travels.
Later, we wandered through the night market for dinner, but the food and atmosphere fell short of expectations, ending the day on a less satisfying note. Despite this, the mix of awe-inspiring landscapes and thought-provoking cultural experiences made for an unforgettable day in Luang Prabang.
2024年10月26日
清晨4点半，被主街上传来的喧闹音乐声惊醒。带着好奇心，成刚出去一探究竟，发现一场年度跑步比赛计划在5点半开始，有点早了。在街上漫步时，注意到人行道旁整齐排列着一排排小板凳，空无一人。而街边的小贩则不停地向他推销糯米饭和糖果，这一切起初显得有些奇怪。但很快明白了这些是为僧侣布施仪式所准备的。这是一项深深植根于琅勃拉邦文化、延续了几个世纪的神圣传统。
大约6点钟，僧侣们排着队从寺庙中陆续走出来，此时街道上的每一张板凳几乎都被游客占据——其中约90%是中国游客。坐在板凳上的施主们会拿一团煮好的糯米饭和几包糖果零食放在每一位从面前走过的僧侣的小钵盆和布施包中。起初成刚被这场景所打动，但不一会儿，僧侣们的钵盆迅速装满米饭，眼看着他们将米饭和糖果倾倒进街边设置的看似像垃圾桶的大容器中，觉得食物被弃置，太浪费了，他很失望也很难过。
在返回民宿前，我们爬上了普西山（Mount Phousi），俯瞰整个城市的全景。回到民宿后，主人为我们准备了一份简单却令人满意的早餐。民宿门外的街道上，一个热闹的早市正在进行，从海鲜到新鲜农产品，应有尽有，让我们沉浸在当地的生活氛围中。
今天我们参加了导览一日游，参观苗族村庄、光西瀑布（Kuang Si Waterfalls）和帕乌洞（Pak Ou Caves）。
光西瀑布以其层叠的瀑布和湛蓝的水池让我们赞叹不已。游客绝大部分都来自中国。尽管我们带了泳衣，却选择不下水，而是攀登到瀑布的顶端。在山顶的咖啡馆里，被周围的美景所环绕，我们享受了片刻宁静。
看完苗寨爬完山，午餐安排在一个宁静的花园餐厅。食物简单却美味，而更特别的是，我们有机会给花园里的大象喂香蕉。与这只温顺的大象互动是这一天中最令人愉快的经历之一。
午餐后，我们乘船前往帕乌洞，这是一座石灰岩洞穴，里面摆满了数千尊佛像。虽然洞穴颇具吸引力，但随后参观的一家威士忌工厂对我们来说毫无意义，因为我们都不喝酒。
这次行程中最美妙的部分是在乘船沿湄公河返回城市时，夕阳将沿岸的景色笼罩在金色的余晖中，我们目睹了旅途中最壮丽的日落之一。
回到市区后，我们再次去了夜市寻找晚餐。然而，夜市的食物和氛围都让人感到失望。尽管如此，这一天融合了震撼心灵的自然景观和引人深思的文化体验，仍然让我们对琅勃拉邦格外难忘。
Floating Village 浮村
October 25, 2024
During our research on the Tonlé Sap Lake area,……
在做暹粒(Siem Reap)旅游攻略时，。。。
October 25, 2024
During our research on the Tonlé Sap Lake area, we learned about several floating villages, some reportedly occupied by stateless Vietnamese refugees. Intrigued by this fascinating history, we decided to visit one of the floating villages and also see a nearby temple before heading to the airport. We arranged the trip with Mr. Nab, the taxi driver who had picked us up from the airport, for a total of $55.
Mr. Nab met us at our hotel at 8 AM and drove us to Kampong Phluk, a floating village primarily inhabited by Cambodians. Upon arrival, we boarded a large tourist boat, paying $20 each for the trip. Surprisingly, we were the only passengers on the boat, which sailed along the channel and stopped at a tourist center. Along the way, we observed the unique architecture of the village, with stilted homes raised 6 to 9 meters above the ground to adapt to the lake’s drastic water level changes between the rainy and dry seasons. Along the shore, we saw numerous idle tour boats, seemingly waiting for more visitors.
Partway through the ride, a young boy, who appeared to be the boat driver’s son, joined us on board. We later disembarked at a floating rest area, which offered food for purchase and paddle boat rides to explore the mangroves and nearby villages. We opted not to take the paddle boat tour and returned to our boat instead.
To our surprise, rather than heading back to the starting point, the boat sailed to the middle of the lake. The driver informed us she needed to wait for five minutes, though she didn’t explain why. Shortly after, a boat carrying snacks and drinks approached us. We weren’t interested in buying anything, but an older woman on the snack boat played a familiar pity trick, claiming the young boy was hungry and needed a snack. Feeling pressured, we paid $5 for a bag of potato chips for the boy.
After our visit to the floating village, Mr. Nab drove us to Beng Mealea, a temple near the airport. This lesser-known site had far fewer tourists than Angkor Wat and had not been restored, giving it a raw and ancient charm. We wandered through the partially collapsed structures, marveling at the overgrown trees and vines reclaiming the temple.
Finally, we headed to the airport, ready for our next adventure. Our time in Cambodia had been extraordinary. Siem Reap and Angkor Wat offered a wealth of cultural and historical experiences, and we highly recommend visiting to anyone curious about Cambodia’s rich heritage.
We arrived at Luang Prabang Airport after dark and paid a fixed taxi fare at the airport counter. Since our B&B was located near the city center and close to the night market, where cars are not allowed to enter, the driver dropped us off on the outskirts of the market. From there, we walked through the bustling market to reach our B&B.
After dropping off our luggage and settling in, we ventured back into the market in search of something delicious to eat. However, the market was overly crowded, and the food stalls didn’t seem very appealing to us. Instead, we opted for a nearby restaurant that primarily catered to foreigners. The food was decent, and it gave us our first taste of Laotian cuisine—a pleasant introduction to the flavors of Lao.
2024年10月25日
在做暹粒(Siem Reap)旅游攻略时，我们了解到在洞里萨湖 (Tonlé Sap Lake)边有几个浮村，其中居住着一些无国籍的越南难民。我们决定参观一个浮村，并顺便去机场附近的一座寺庙。我们请前几天刚飞到暹粒机场时接我们的出租车司机纳布先生 (Mr. Nab) 为我们安排了这次行程，总费用55美元。
早上8点，纳布先生来到酒店接我们，带我们前往主要由柬埔寨人居住的浮村——磅通普鲁克 (Kampong Phluk)。到达后，我们每人支付了20美元的游船票后，登上了一艘小旅游船，就我们三人。在岸边我们注意到许多停泊的旅游船，但大多空无一人，显然游客并不多。沿途我们看到浮村中独特的高脚房屋，这些房屋高达6至9米，以适应雨季和旱季水位的巨大变化。
行程中，一名小男孩登上了我们的船，看起来可能是船夫的儿子。我们在一个漂浮的休息区下船，这里有食物出售，并提供小舟服务，游客可以划船参观红树林和其他村落。我们选择不参加小舟游览，而是直接返回了我们的船。
令人意外的是，船没有返回出发点，而是驶向了湖中央。当浮村从我们眼前彻底消失时船停了下来，船夫告诉我们需要等待五分钟，但并未解释原因。不久，一艘装满零食和饮料的小船靠近了我们。虽然我们没有任何购买的意愿，但零食船上的老妇人用一个常见的伎俩博取同情，说小男孩饿了，给他买点吃的东西吧。于心不忍，我们让小男孩自己挑喜欢的，最终花了5美元给他买了一袋薯片。这时也终于明白船停湖中央的原因了。
参观完浮村后，纳布先生又带我们去了机场附近的崩密列 (Beng Mealea)，一座鲜为人知的寺庙。与吴哥窟相比，这里的游客非常少，而且寺庙尚未修复，呈现出一种原始的古老魅力。我们漫步在部分坍塌的建筑间，感叹树木和藤蔓对寺庙的“接管”，让人仿佛置身于自然与历史交织的画卷中。
最终，我们前往机场，准备开启下一段旅程。暹粒 (Siem Reap) 和 吴哥窟 (Angkor Wat) 提供了丰富的文化和历史体验。我们强烈推荐这些地方给任何对柬埔寨文化和历史感兴趣的人。这是一段令人难忘的旅程。
Angkor Wat 小吴哥
October 24, 2024
Our second day exploring Angkor Wat began early,……
我们吴哥窟之旅的第二天从凌晨4点的早起开始。。。
October 24, 2024
The tour price didn’t include the $62 three-day entrance fee to Angkor Archaeological Park. Our second day exploring Angkor Wat began early, with wake-up at 4 AM. By 5 AM, we arrived at Angkor Wat with other 9 tourists for the sunrise. Along with many others, we gathered at the edge of the pond in front of the temple, standing on waterlogged ground due to the previous night’s rain. While we had high expectations, the sunrise was less striking than anticipated, as the sun rose slightly off-center from the temple.
Sunrise At Angkor Wat 吴哥窟的日出
As the world’s largest religious monument, Angkor Wat stands as a testament to the grandeur of the Khmer Empire. Originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu and later converted into a Buddhist site, its intricate carvings depicting ancient Hindu epics were both awe-inspiring and overwhelming in their scale and detail. Despite the limited time, we marveled at the craftsmanship, wishing we could linger longer to absorb its full beauty.
Angkor Wat 吴哥窟
Our next stop was Ta Prohm, a temple left largely unrestored to retain its “jungle temple” atmosphere. Massive spung trees and their intertwined roots enveloped the ancient stone structures, creating a surreal and hauntingly beautiful scene. The temple’s fame as a filming location for Tomb Raider added to its mystique, though we hadn’t seen the movie.
Ta Prohm 塔普伦寺
The final destination of our tour was Angkor Thom, the last great capital of the Khmer Empire. Entering through its monumental gates, flanked by rows of serene faces carved into stone, we were immediately struck by the city’s grandeur. Climbing a few steps to a viewpoint, we admired a detailed Buddha face etched into the side of the structure. The intricate carvings of everyday Khmer life were fascinating, though time constraints once again left us yearning to explore more.
Angkor Thom 吴哥城
The tour deepened our appreciation for Cambodia’s rich history and the architectural and spiritual achievements of the Khmer Empire.
In the afternoon, we returned to the hotel for a short rest before venturing out again. That evening, a tuk-tuk driver took us to a dinner show featuring a buffet of both Cambodian and Western dishes. The highlight was the graceful performances of traditional Cambodian dance, a perfect way to end the day.
Angkor Wat exceeded our expectations, and Siem Reap proved to be a remarkably tourist-friendly city where English and US dollars are widely used. The experience was unforgettable, leaving us in awe of Cambodia’s cultural heritage.
2024年10月24日
这次二日游的费用只是导游和交通运输，并不包括 吴哥考古公园 (Angkor Archaeological Park) 为期三天的门票，价格为每人62美元。我们提前在网上买好票，每到一个寺庙手机扫一下就行。我们吴哥窟之旅的第二天从凌晨4点的早起开始。还是昨天的司机和导游，除了昨天我们五位游客，今天又多了另外六位。早上5点，我们到达著名的吴哥窟 (Angkor Wat)，准备观赏日出。天还没亮，和许多其他游客一样，我们聚集在寺庙前的池塘边。由于昨晚的降雨，地面湿滑，我们脚踩在积水中，寻找最佳位置。尽管我们满怀期待，但日出的景象却没有想象中壮观。一是天气的原因，二是太阳升起的位置略微偏离了寺庙的正中心。
作为世界上最大的宗教建筑，吴哥窟是高棉帝国辉煌成就的象征。它最初供奉印度教主神毗湿奴 (Vishnu)，后来被改为佛教寺庙。寺庙上雕刻的古印度史诗画面不仅令人叹为观止，而且因其规模和细节之精美让人感到震撼。尽管时间有限，我们仍然被这些工艺品深深吸引，真希望能停留更久，细细品味其精妙之处。
接下来，我们来到 塔普伦寺 (Ta Prohm Temple)。这座寺庙几乎保持原貌，没有经过太多修复，以展现其独特的“丛林寺庙”氛围。巨大的榕树和其盘根错节的树根与古老的石头建筑交织在一起，形成一种超现实且令人叹为观止的奇景。这座寺庙因电影《古墓丽影 (Tomb Raider)》的取景地而闻名，我们还未看过这部电影。
离开塔普伦寺前往胜利门(Victory Gate)。以大象的躯体为支撑，门顶上是特有的高棉四面佛。导游让我们从门旁边的小坡爬上去，攀爬几级台阶到达一个观景点，我们得以更清晰地欣赏雕刻在建筑侧面的佛面，也能看到门后面的第四个佛面。此门通往我们此次行程最后一站的吴哥城 (Angkor Thom)，这是高棉帝国的最后一座首都。古都城内寺庙无数，以巴戎寺（Bayon Temple)为中心，其壮丽景象立即让我们感到震撼。穿行在寺庙迷宫般的回廊中，看着回廊璧上雕刻着大量的精美浮雕，听着导游讲解那些雕刻所展现的神话故事和高棉日常生活场景让我们着迷。只可惜时间有限，我们二天的吴哥窟之旅不得不在遗憾中结束。
我们返回酒店稍作休息后再次出发。当晚，一位TukTuk车司机按时来到酒店载我们前往一场包含柬埔寨和西式菜品的自助晚餐秀。传统柬埔寨舞蹈优雅的表演成为整场晚宴的亮点，也为我们的柬埔寨暹粒行画上了完美的句号。
吴哥窟完全没有让我们失望，而 暹粒 (Siem Reap) 作为一座非常适合游客的城市，英语和美元在这里被广泛使用。此次经历令人难忘，让我们对柬埔寨的文化遗产充满敬畏之情。
“Big circle” of Angkor Wat 大吴哥
October 23, 2024
Today, we began a two-day small group tour of Angkor Wat,……
今天，我们开启了为期两天的小团吴哥窟之旅，。。。
October 23, 2024
Today, we began a two-day small group tour of Angkor Wat, costing $45 per person. On the first day, only five of us joined the tour to visit four remarkable temples: Pre Rup, Neak Poan, Preah Khan, and Banteay Srei, collectively known as the “large circuit” of Angkor Wat. Each temple captivated us with its grandeur and intricate beauty, and the well-regulated and organized site ensured a seamless and pleasant experience.
Pre Rup 比粒寺
Neak Poan 涅盘宫
Preah Khan 圣剑寺
Banteay Srei 女王宫
Our knowledgeable guide enriched the visit with detailed explanations, though the sheer volume of information made it difficult to retain everything. These temples, once part of the ancient Khmer Empire’s capital, showcased a harmonious blend of Hindu and Buddhist influences. Their relatively recent rediscovery lent them an authentic charm that stood out from other ancient structures we’ve encountered.
The hot and humid weather was a challenge, but our friendly driver made it bearable. After each stop, he greeted us at the van door with cold water and refreshing eucalyptus-scented towels. Traveling between sites in an air-conditioned van provided much-needed comfort.
On the way back to the city, we stopped at a landmine museum, a sobering reminder of Cambodia’s modern dark history. We ended the day with a lively dinner at Pub Street, wrapping up an unforgettable and deeply meaningful experience.
2024年10月23日
今天，我们开启了为期两天的小团吴哥窟之旅，费用为每人45美元。第一天，我们一共五位游客一同参观了四座令人惊叹的寺庙：比粒寺（Pre Rup Temple), 涅盘宫(Neak Pean),圣剑寺 (Preah Khan Temple) 和女王宫(Banteay Srei Temple), 这些寺庙组成了大吴哥的“外圈”。每座寺庙都以其壮丽的规模和精美的细节让我们惊叹不已，而景区的良好管理也让整个体验十分顺畅愉快。
我们的导游知识渊博，为我们详细讲解了每座寺庙的历史与背景，尽管信息量庞大，难以全部记住。这些寺庙曾是高棉帝国古都的一部分，展示了印度教与佛教元素的和谐融合。它们在近代才被重新发现，因此更显示出其真实与独特，与我们过去见过的其他古代建筑有很大的不同。
炎热潮湿的天气是一种挑战，但我们的好司机每次结束一处景点的参观后，他都会在车门旁递给我们冰凉的矿泉水和带有桉树香味的冷毛巾，再加上车内的空调更是让我们倍感舒适，令行程更加愉快。
返回市区途中，我们参观了地雷博物馆。馆很小却是一段令人警醒的经历，也提醒我们关注柬埔寨近代的悲惨历史。
一天繁忙的行程最终以来到热闹的酒吧街享用晚餐而告一段落。
Travel to Siem Reap 前往暹粒的一天
October 22, 2024
Today marked another exciting and seamless day of travel……
今天, 我们搭乘亚洲航空飞往柬埔寨的暹粒。。。
October 22, 2024
Today marked another exciting and seamless day of travel as we made our way to Siem Reap, Cambodia with AirAsia. Before boarding, we enjoyed a relaxing and rejuvenating break in the airport lounge, thanks to our Priority Pass memberships. The lounge experience was a refreshing interlude, offering delicious and satisfying complimentary food and, best of all, a soothing and invigorating Thai massage that melted away any lingering travel fatigue. Feeling both well-fed and rejuvenated, we were ready to embrace our next adventure in Siem Reap.
We arrived at the modern and pristine Siem Reap airport, which was surprisingly quiet and nearly deserted, with our plane being the only one on the tarmac. We paid $30 for a taxi to the city center, and it was intriguing to see so many taxi drivers waiting in the parking lot, despite the lack of passengers. Once in the taxi, our driver shared insights about the city’s struggles after COVID. He explained how Chinese tourists, who had been the number-one visitors before the pandemic, dropped to fifth place due to negative portrayals on TikTok and other social media platforms. The drive along the smooth and scenic highway from the airport was pleasant, flanked by lush green rice fields, though traffic was notably sparse. Along the way, the driver reiterated the city’s challenge of not attracting enough visitors to Angkor Wat, which left us reflecting on the impact of the pandemic on global tourism.
After settling into our hotel, we ventured out to enjoy our first Cambodian meal. As soon as we stepped outside, we were approached by a friendly TukTuk driver, who initially asked for $4 to take us to the restaurant. After some friendly negotiation, we agreed on $2. The ride in the colorful and surprisingly comfortable electric TukTuk turned out to be a delightful and unique experience, something we were initially hesitant to try but quickly grew to enjoy.
Dinner was decent and reasonably priced, providing a simple but satisfying introduction to Cambodian cuisine. Afterward, we strolled to the night market and Pub Street, where we felt completely safe and relaxed wandering through the city center. (Seeing pub street made it obvious that Siem reap and pub street was a tourist city.)
2024年10月22日
今天, 我们搭乘亚洲航空飞往柬埔寨的暹粒, 是一次令人期待且顺利的旅行日，。在登机之前，我们凭借 Priority Pass 会员去了机场休息室。机场休息室的体验是一段令人耳目一新的间歇，提供了美味可口的免费餐点，更棒的是一场舒缓且振奋身心的泰式按摩，消除了旅途中的疲惫。在充分享受美食与放松后，我们焕然一新，满怀期待地迎接在暹粒的下一段令人期待的旅程。
抵达暹粒时，我们被这座现代化且干净的机场所吸引。令人惊讶的是，机场非常安静，停机坪上只有我们的飞机。我们支付了30美元乘坐出租车前往市中心。让人好奇的是，尽管机场几乎没有其他乘客，但停车场里却有许多出租车司机在等待。上车后，司机与我们聊起了疫情后的城市现状。他提到，在疫情之前，中国游客是暹粒的主要游客，但由于抖音等社交媒体上的负面评价，现在中国游客数量急剧下降，排到了第五位。沿着平坦且风景优美的机场公路前行，道路两旁是郁郁葱葱的稻田，景色怡人，但车流稀少。司机一路上反复提到吴哥窟缺乏游客的挑战，让我们深刻感受到疫情对全球旅游业的冲击。
到达酒店安顿好后，我们出门去享用第一顿柬埔寨美食。刚出酒店，一位热情的嘟嘟车司机便主动上前搭话，原本报价4美元送我们去餐馆，但经过一番友好的讨价还价后，我们以2美元成交。这辆色彩斑斓且意外舒适的电动嘟嘟车为我们带来了一段别开生面的体验，原本有些犹豫的我们很快便爱上了这种独特的交通方式。
晚餐简单但令人满意，为我们初次品尝柬埔寨菜肴开了一个好头。饭后，我们漫步前往夜市和酒吧街，完全放松地徜徉于市中心。看到热闹的酒吧街，暹粒作为一座以旅游为主的城市特色显而易见。这里的氛围轻松又安全，为我们的第一天画上了圆满的句号。
Maeklong Railway Market 美功铁道市场
October 21, 2024
We embarked on an exciting 5-hour tour of Bangkok’s iconic Maeklong Railway Market……
这一天，我们参加了五小时的精彩游览。。。
October 21, 2024
We embarked on an exciting 5-hour tour of Bangkok’s iconic Maeklong Railway Market and Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. The day started early as we were picked up from our hotel and driven to a small train station outside the city. Soon, we boarded an old commuter train heading straight for the heart of Maeklong Railway Market. The living conditions along the track were heartbreaking.
As the train chugged closer, Maeklong’s unique charm began to unfold. Vendors had set up their stalls right along—and even over—the railway tracks, displaying a vibrant array of goods. When the train approached, a whirlwind of activity followed: vendors hurriedly packed away their wares, clearing the tracks with choreographed precision. Spectators lined both sides, phones raised to capture this fascinating spectacle. From our vantage point on the train, we joined in, taking photos and soaking in the buzzing energy. Chenggang added a touch of fun by leaning out the window to high-five onlookers along the way.
Once we alighted, the roles reversed, and we became the market visitors. Walking along the tracks, we browsed the colorful stalls. Just as Chenggang bought a fresh coconut from a shouting aunt, we heard the unmistakable sound of an approaching train. Everyone quickly stepped aside, and the train passed by us with only inches to spare. The experience was surreal—like stepping into a movie, thrilling, unforgettable, and completely unique.
Next, we headed to Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. We climbed aboard a paddle boat to explore its bustling waterways. Boats brimming with food and souvenirs floated by, and vendors called out to attract customers. While it was fascinating to see, the market felt touristy and lacked the authenticity of a traditional local marketplace, leaving us slightly underwhelmed.
Back in Bangkok, we ended the day with a stop at a major shopping mall in the city center and Erawan Shrine before returning to our hotel. The day left us with vibrant memories of excitement, culture, and the colorful chaos of Bangkok’s markets.
2024年10月21日
这一天，我们参加了五小时的精彩游览，目的地是曼谷著名的美功铁道市场和丹嫩沙多水上市场。清晨，我们从酒店出发，驱车前往市郊的一座小火车站。不久后，我们登上一列古老的通勤火车，驶向美功铁道市场的中心。
随着火车逐渐驶近，美功市场的独特魅力开始展现。摊位紧贴轨道甚至覆盖在铁轨之上，各种商品琳琅满目，色彩斑斓。当火车接近时，摊贩们迅速收拾货物，为火车让路，场面犹如一场井然有序的表演。两侧的游客纷纷举起手机记录这一奇观。我们坐在火车上，也参与到这热闹非凡的场景中，拍下照片，感受市场的独特氛围。成刚更是调皮地探出窗外，与轨道旁的路人击掌互动，为旅程增添了不少乐趣。
下车后，我们化身为市场的行人，沿着铁轨漫步，近距离感受市场的喧嚣与活力。就在成刚从一位“喊声响亮的阿姨”手中买到一颗新鲜椰子时，我们听到了火车驶来的声音。人群迅速退到铁轨两侧，火车呼啸而过，距离仅仅几厘米。整个过程既紧张又兴奋，犹如电影中的场景，让人久久难忘。
接着，我们前往丹嫩沙多水上市场，乘上一艘小船，开始探索这片热闹的水道。船只满载着食物和纪念品穿梭其中，小贩热情地招呼顾客。然而，与美功市场相比，这里显得更加商业化，缺少了传统市集的原汁原味，让人略感遗憾。尽管如此，在水道间穿行依然是一种别样的体验。
回到曼谷后，我们在市中心的一家大型购物商场停留，为这一天的旅程画上了句号。回程的路上，脑海中满是这一天的画面：铁轨上的刺激、市场的热闹与水道的繁忙，构成了一段充满活力与色彩的回忆。
The Grand Palace & Wat Arun 大皇宫和黎明寺
October 20, 2024
The Grand Palace is an absolute must-visit when in Bangkok……
大皇宫是曼谷必去的景点之一。。。
October 20, 2024
The Grand Palace is an absolute must-visit when in Bangkok. Although it once served as the official royal residence, the current king no longer lives or works there. Still, the palace remains one of Thailand’s most iconic landmarks, with its vibrant colors, intricate designs, and gold accents. We were awestruck by the overwhelming beauty of the detailed buildings, lush gardens, and numerous temples, all within a relatively compact space. The design clearly wasn’t intended for comfort but to showcase the power and grandeur of the Thai monarchy.
The Temple of the Emerald Buddha within the palace complex is particularly famous. The Buddha statue, carved from a single piece of jade, is revered as Thailand’s most sacred image. Each season, the king personally changes the robes of the Buddha, a gesture that symbolizes the changing of the seasons. Photography is not allowed inside the temple, but we were able to use our long-lens camera to capture the majesty of the Buddha from the outside.
After visiting the Grand Palace, we hopped on a city ferry to cross the bustling Chao Phraya River on our way to Wat Arun, also known as the Temple of Dawn. While it may not be as grand or ornate as the Grand Palace, it has its own unique charm. The architecture here is less colorful but still striking, with its towering central prang decorated with intricate porcelain tiles. The atmosphere was more laid-back compared to the grandeur of the palace, and we noticed many young visitors taking photos in traditional Thai costumes, adding a lively, modern touch to the ancient site.
After crossing back over the river, we stopped at a small Thai café on a street corner, which was popular with tourists. The dishes were simple, yet the food was delicious and satisfying.
Our adventure continued to the Wat Po.
Next we visited the Chatuchak Weekend Market, one of the largest markets in Bangkok. With over 15,000 stalls, it’s a sprawling maze of shops selling everything from street food to clothing, art, and crafts. The clothing styles were trendy and the prices were reasonable, making it a great place to shop for unique items and souvenirs. Chenggang had his first of many mango sticky rices.
For dinner, we headed to Asiatique Riverfront, a lively night market and dining area by the river. The food was decent, and the view of the river, combined with the vibrant atmosphere, made it a nice place to relax after a busy day.
大皇宫和黎明寺
2024年10月20日
大皇宫是曼谷必去的景点之一。虽然它曾经是泰国国王的正式皇宫，但现任国王已不再居住或办公于此。然而，大皇宫依然是泰国最具代表性的地标之一，以其艳丽的色彩、精美的设计和金碧辉煌的装饰而闻名。我们被建筑的精致细节、郁郁葱葱的花园和众多寺庙所深深震撼。虽然大皇宫的设计显然不是为了舒适而建，但却完美展现了泰国皇室的威严与辉煌。
宫殿内的玉佛寺尤为著名。寺中供奉的玉佛像由一整块翡翠雕刻而成，是泰国最神圣的佛像之一。每逢季节更替，国王会亲自为玉佛更换袈裟，这一仪式象征着季节的交替。虽然寺内禁止拍照，但我们利用长焦镜头从外部捕捉到了玉佛的庄严之美。
参观完大皇宫后，我们搭乘城市渡轮穿越熙熙攘攘的湄南河，前往对岸的黎明寺（Wat Arun）。虽然黎明寺没有大皇宫那样金碧辉煌，但它有自己独特的魅力。寺内的建筑色彩相对朴素，但高耸的中央佛塔装饰着精美的瓷片，显得格外引人注目。相比大皇宫的壮丽，黎明寺的氛围更加悠闲，我们还看到许多年轻游客穿着传统泰国服饰拍照，为这座古老的寺庙增添了一份现代气息。
返回河对岸后，我们在街角的一家泰式小餐馆稍作停留。这家餐馆深受游客欢迎，虽然菜品简单，但味道鲜美，令人满意。
我们的旅程接着来到了卧佛寺（Wat Pho），随后前往曼谷最大的市场之一——乍都乍周末市场（Chatuchak Weekend Market）。这个市场拥有超过15,000个摊位，宛如一个巨大的迷宫，各种街头美食、服装、艺术品和手工艺品应有尽有。这里的服装时尚，价格合理，非常适合挑选独特的纪念品。成刚在这里第一次尝到了真正的芒果糯米饭，印象深刻。
晚餐时间，我们前往了湄南河边的Asiatique河滨夜市。这是一个热闹的夜市和餐饮区，尽管食物的味道中规中矩，但夜市热闹的氛围与河景相映成趣，为忙碌的一天画上了一个放松的句号。
Travel Day to Bangkok 前往曼谷
Oct 19, 2024
Today was a travel day……
今天早餐后我们去到了充满活力的小印度。。。
October 19, 2024
Today was a travel day. Before heading to the airport, we took the subway to Tekka Centre, accompanied by the cheerful “Happy Happy” announcements on the train, to explore vibrant Little India. Indian culture plays a significant role in Singapore’s diversity, and Little India was bustling with life, its streets adorned with colorful ribbons swaying in the breeze. Chenggang visited the historic Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, observing people praying and celebrating in a vibrant atmosphere.
We admired the lively surroundings and also stopped by the famous, colorful Tan Teng Niah house, one of the last surviving Chinese villas in the area near Tekka Centre, with its vivid, kaleidoscopic facade standing out among the shops and eateries. We then enjoyed a flavorful Indian lunch at a nearby restaurant.
A Grab ride took us to Terminal 2 at Changi Airport, where we asked about the famous waterfall. An airport staff member pointed to a large screen displaying a digital version, but knowing that wouldn’t satisfy us, we took the airport shuttle to Terminal 1. The breathtaking waterfall (Jewel) set amid a stunning mall, was awe-inspiring—it felt like more than just an airport. Afterward, we walked back to Terminal 2 and relaxed in a lounge, enjoying a smooth latte and light snack before boarding our flight.
Our flight to Bangkok was smooth and comfortable, and after checking in at the hotel, we ventured to Chinatown for dinner at the lively night market. Though hesitant to try street food from the vendors, a sudden downpour led us to a cozy, albeit pricier, restaurant where we enjoyed our flavorful first Thai/Chinese meal in Thailand.
With an early tour scheduled for tomorrow, we were ready to settle in for the night.
今天早餐后我们去到了充满活力的小印度。印度文化在新加坡的多元文化中占有重要地位，小印度充满生机，街道上悬挂的彩色缎带在微风中飘扬，增添了几分节日气息。成刚参观了历史悠久的维拉玛卡里雅曼庙，在浓厚的氛围中看到人们虔诚祈祷、热烈庆祝的场面。我们也被这片充满生机的街区吸引，接着参观了德卡中心附近著名的彩色陈东霓雅屋。这栋中国传统别墅是该地区幸存的几栋之一，其鲜艳多彩的外墙在周围的商铺和餐馆中尤为亮眼。随后，我们在附近的一家餐厅享用了地道的印度午餐。
午餐后，回酒店拿了行李便叫了一辆Grab车前往樟宜机场的2号航站楼。特意询问了机场内那座著名的瀑布，一位机场工作人员指向一个显示屏，上面展示着瀑布的数字影像，但我们想看真实的瀑布，于是乘坐机场穿梭车前往1号航站楼。那瀑布（Jewel）坐落在一个令人惊叹的购物中心中，场景美不胜收——这里更像一座景点，而非普通的机场。欣赏完后，我们步行返回2号航站楼，在休息室候机并且享用了些许小食准备搭乘航班，继续我们的旅程。
也许我们对新加坡的期望过高，狮城并未给我们留下特别深刻的印象，整体感觉就是一座物价偏高的大都市。
我们的曼谷之行从一次平稳的航班开始。搭乘新加坡航空不到三个小时就抵达泰国曼谷。到达酒店办理入住后，我们前往热闹的唐人街（Chinatown）夜市享用晚餐。突如其来的大雨把我们带进了一家温馨的小餐厅，尽管价格不便宜，但我们品尝到了一顿美味的泰式中餐，开启了在泰国的美食之旅。
Singapore 新加坡
October 18, 2024
We had a packed sightseeing day in Singapore……
经过二十几个小时的飞行和转机。。。
October 18, 2024
We had a packed sightseeing day in Singapore. After a generous breakfast buffet at the hotel, courtesy of an American Express travel booking by our daughter, we explored the mall and took a stroll across the Helix Bridge. Our first major stop was the stunning Gardens by the Bay. Both the Cloud Forest and Flower Dome were impressive and meticulously maintained, though the tickets were quite pricey. We walked by the Supertrees without heading up to the observatory, as the humid weather didn’t quite agree with us, which dampened our overall experience.
Our next stop was Chinatown, where we tried the famous Hainanese chicken rice from Tian Tian at the Maxwell Food Centre. Luckily, the queue was short today. The chicken was very tender and flavorful, though we didn’t feel it entirely lived up to its reputation. The only vegetarian stall at Maxwell was closed so Christine had a bowl of sweet dessert. As we continued exploring Chinatown, mother and daughter had more food at Yixin Vegan Restaurant while Chenggang enjoyed a yinyang coffee—a blend of coffee and tea.
We then took the subway back to the hotel for a short rest. Singapore’s subway system is clean and uncrowded, even during rush hour. Each stop is announced with cheerful “Happy Happy” messages, adding a pleasant touch to the journey.
Recharged, we walked to Merlion Park, popular among tourists. The stone lion with the Marina Bay skyline as a backdrop was beautiful. We continued to the city center for dinner at Lau Pa Sat, sampling a few satays and noodles (Christine found a hawker with vegan Chinese food). While the food was decent, the lack of air conditioning made it uncomfortably hot and humid, and overall, the experience fell short of our expectations.
After dinner, we returned to Gardens by the Bay to enjoy the light show, followed by a quick walk to catch the Spectra Light Show. It was truly spectacular—one of the best light shows we’ve ever experienced.
In one day, we managed to cover most of Singapore’s top tourist attractions, and by the end, we were happily exhausted.
狮城游
2024年10月18日
经过二十几个小时的飞行和转机，终于来到向往已久的新加坡，先一步来到的女儿在机场接机。深夜入住Conrad Centennial Singapore（康莱德酒店）好好睡了一晚。第二天早餐后，我们漫步穿过了酒店附近的螺旋桥来到今天的第一站。令人惊叹的滨海湾花园，云雾林和花穹都给我们留下了深刻的印象，花园维护得非常精致，但门票价格不菲。我们经过超级树，但由于天气太湿热，登上观景台的计划也就放弃了。
接着我们前往牛车水，在麦士威(Maxwell)熟食中心品尝了网红店天天海南鸡饭。今天运气不错，排队的人不算太多。鸡肉十分嫩滑美味，但我们觉得不太值得排长队。整个熟食区也显得简陋且并不怎么干净，与我们所期待的有差距。之后又在中国城走了走，我们便搭地铁回酒店稍作休息，享受凉爽的空调。新加坡的地铁系统干净整洁，即使在高峰时段也不拥挤。每站都会播放充满活力的“Happy Happy”信息，为旅程增添了一丝愉悦的气氛。
短暂休息后，我们步行前往游客必去的鱼尾狮公园。以滨海湾的天际线为背景，鱼尾狮的景象格外壮观。随后，我们继续前往市中心，在老巴刹（Lau Pa Sat)享用晚餐，这里可选的东西实在太多，我们品尝了烧烤，沙爹和米粉条。食物味道都不错，环境比中午的麦士威要好许多。不过新加坡闷热的天气，没有空调的环境让用餐体验稍显不足。
晚餐后，我们再次回到滨海湾花园观看灯光秀，接着步行前往光影水舞秀Spectra。这场表演确实令人惊叹，堪称我们见过最精彩的水上灯光秀之一。
Zipair to Singapore
October 16, 2024
We left home at 10:20 AM, ……
We left home at 10:20 AM on Oct. 15, and a friend dropped us off at Sky Harbor Airport for our Southwest flight to LA. While waiting to board, we enjoyed a chili soup at Panera Bread. The flight to LAX was smooth and on time. Once we were settled in at Four Points by Sheraton, we craved Mexican food and found a well-reviewed food truck nearby. The food was excellent.
On October 16, we took an early shuttle to the airport and boarded our Zipair flight to Tokyo, followed by a transfer to another Zipair flight to Singapore, with a 2.5-hour layover. The total flight time exceeded 17 hours, making it our longest flight ever. During the 24-hour travel period, we either ate airplane food or lounge food, which was adequate for filling our stomachs. Passing through customs and immigration in Singapore was quick and uneventful. Our daughter, who had arrived earlier that morning, met us at the airport to join us on our journey through Southeast Asia.
We took Grab, a ride-hauling service like Uber and Lyft to the Conrad Hotel. By the time we settled into the hotel, it was already past midnight on Oct. 17, more than 24 hours since we left LAX. We were all exhausted.
Heidelberg and Time to Go Home 海德堡
August 7, 2024
We had been in Frankfurt two years ago......
我们两年前曾来过法兰克福，。。。
August 7, 2024: We had been in Frankfurt two years ago. This time, we decided on a day trip outside the city. Among several candidates, we picked Heidelberg, which was only an hour and twenty minutes by train from Frankfurt. Unfortunately, we missed an early direct train and boarded a train to Darmstadt instead.
In Darmstadt, we decided to explore a little rather than continue immediately to Heidelberg. We took an Uber to see the Russian church and the Wedding Tower in Mathildenhöhe, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Afterward, we leisurely strolled to Luisenplatz. After four weeks without Chinese food, we craved it and found a vendor in a mall near the square serving crispy duck over noodles and stir-fried vegetables with tofu. The meal was delicious, and as we've come to expect, the crispy duck in Europe didn't disappoint—priced the same as chicken dishes.
We didn’t stay in Darmstadt long and caught a train to Heidelberg right after lunch. An Uber took us to the funicular station up to Heidelberg Castle. Though the castle has been destroyed several times, it is considered one of the best castle ruins in the world. This iconic structure, perched on a hill overlooking the city, is a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. It houses the famous Heidelberg Tun, a massive wine barrel—the largest in the world—once used for tax collection as winemakers paid their taxes in wine. The castle offers stunning views of the city and the Old Bridge over the Neckar River.
After visiting the castle, we opted to walk down the hill to the Old Town rather than take the funicular. The Old Town was vibrant and beautiful, with plenty of cafes and restaurants. We sat down for traditional German food. Besides the schnitzel dish, we ordered sausage salad to get some greens, expecting something similar to a chicken salad in the States—meat on top of vegetables. Instead, the salad consisted entirely of sliced sausage. We remembered making the same mistake two years ago! The salad was tasty but just too much sausage.
After dinner, we hurried back to the train station to return to Frankfurt.
Tomorrow, we fly home with Condor, a direct flight to Phoenix. In five weeks, we traveled across eight countries and territories, stopping at 20 destinations. We had a wonderful time and experienced some once-in-a-lifetime moments. We’ll be back on the road again soon.
海德堡-该回家了
2024年8月7日：我们两年前曾来过法兰克福 (Frankfurt)，所以今天决定去城外来个一日游。考虑了几个候选地，最后选择了海德堡 (Heidelberg)，只需乘火车一小时二十分钟即可到达。但我们错过了早班直达火车，之后的火车都必须在另一小镇达姆施塔特 (Darmstadt)转车，于是我们临时决定索性也顺路去达姆施塔特转一转。
到了达姆施塔特后，我们叫了一辆优步 (Uber)，前往马蒂尔登山 (Mathildenhöhe) 的俄罗斯教堂 (Russian Church) 和婚礼塔 (Wedding Tower)，这里是联合国教科文组织世界遗产地，这二个也算是这小镇最有代表性的景点了。之后我们走到镇中心的路易森广场 (Luisenplatz)。离家到现在没吃过中餐，我们开始想念它。于是在广场旁的一家购物中心找到一个摊位，点了脆皮鸭，豆腐炒蔬菜和炒面。味道非常棒，正如我们预期的那样，欧洲的脆皮鸭从未让我们失望过，价格与鸡肉菜相同。
在达姆施塔特我们没有逗留太久，午饭后便搭上火车前往海德堡。一辆优步 (Uber) 带我们到达海德堡城堡 (Heidelberg Castle) 的缆车站，乘坐斜坡缆车到了城堡。虽然这座城堡曾多次被摧毁，但它被认为是世界上保存最好的城堡废墟之一。这座标志性建筑坐落在俯瞰城市的山丘上，是哥特式和文艺复兴式建筑的混合体。城堡内有著名的海德堡大酒桶 (Heidelberg Tun)，这是世界上最大的酒桶，曾用作税收工具，酿酒师们以葡萄酒缴税。站在城堡上可以欣赏到城市和内卡河 (Neckar River) 上的老桥 (Old Bridge) 的绝美景色。
参观完城堡后，我们选择步行下山前往老城区 (Old Town)，而不是乘坐缆车。老城区不仅漂亮而且非常有生机，一条长长的主街上是数不尽的咖啡馆和餐馆。我们坐下来享用传统的德国美食。除了必点的炸猪排 (Schnitzel) ，我们还点了香肠沙拉 (Sausage Salad) 想以此来增加一些绿叶菜，我们以为会像美国的鸡肉沙拉 (Chicken Salad) 一样——肉在蔬菜上面。然而，一大盆沙拉上来全是切成条状的香肠，不见蔬菜。我们这时候突然想起来两年前在德国也犯了同样的错误！虽然沙拉味道不错，但香肠实在太多了。晚餐后，我们坐火车返回法兰克福 。
明天，我们将乘坐德国康多航空 (Condor) 的直航班机从法兰克福飞回凤凰城 (Phoenix)。在五周的时间里，我们游历了七个国家和一个地区(英属直布罗陀），在22个城市/小镇停留。我们度过了美好的时光，留下了难忘的记忆。期待下一次。
One Day in Four Countries - 一天四个国家
August 6, 2024
Today was a busy travel day......
今天是个繁忙的旅行日。。。
August 6, 2024: Today was a busy travel day as our daughter had a noon flight from Geneva to New York City, and we were heading to Frankfurt, Germany. We had an early start, booking a 6:40 am FlixBus to Geneva. The hotel staff went above and beyond, setting up a special breakfast table for us before the usual service hours—an act of kindness we deeply appreciated.
However, our journey didn't begin smoothly. The FlixBus was delayed by half an hour, and without any updates, we started to get anxious. Thankfully, the ride through the tunnel was uneventful. The bus stopped in Chamonix to pick up more passengers and then headed to Geneva. At the France and Switzerland border, we were stopped by French police or immigration officers. They boarded the bus, checking everyone's travel documents. Afterward, there was an unexpected delay as one officer had a heated conversation with the driver in Italian. We were puzzled but later learned from a fellow passenger that the issue was related to unpaid taxes by the bus company. Eventually, the driver resolved the matter—possibly by paying the required fee—and we were back on our way. It was a strange experience, especially considering that FlixBus is a well-known company, akin to Greyhound in the USA, and runs this route daily.
In the midst of all this, our daughter received a notification from Delta that her flight was canceled and rebooked for the next day. At least this meant we no longer had to worry about her missing the flight.
After saying goodbye at Geneva's train station, we caught a Swiss train to a small town in Germany. The train was spotless and punctual, and we had an entire first-class coach to ourselves. But once we switched to a German train, everything changed. The trains began running late, and the first-class coach quickly filled up. We arrived at Frankfurt’s main station late afternoon and then transferred to a regional train that took us to our hotel near the market.
After a short rest, we ventured out to a nearby restaurant. The moment we walked in, it felt familiar. We realized we had dined here two years ago. We shared a schnitzel—two pieces—which were decent. Later, we passed by a döner place and couldn’t resist ordering a gyro. It was delicious.
We ended the evening with a stroll along the river, crossing one iron bridge to the other side and returning over another. Since we had visited this area before, it didn’t excite us as much, so we headed back to the hotel.
We started our day in Italy this morning, traveled through France, Switzerland, and ended our day in Germany.
2024年8月6日：今天是个繁忙的旅行日。女儿中午要从瑞士的日内瓦（Geneva）飞回纽约市（New York City），而我们则要前往德国的法兰克福（Frankfurt）。我们很早就起床，预先买好了早上6:40的大巴（FlixBus）从意大利Courmayeur前往日内瓦。酒店工作人员非常贴心，为我们特意提前准备了一桌早餐，这让我们非常感动。
然而，旅途一开始并不顺利。FlixBus迟到了半个小时，期间没有任何通知。问了其他几位也在等大巴的乘客，都没收到消息。我们开始有些焦虑，因为女儿要赶飞机。终于等到大巴，幸运的是这次过隧道非常顺利，没有遇到任何堵车。出了隧道，巴士来到法国的Chamonix又接了几位乘客之后便一路往日内瓦方向开去。没想到在法国和瑞士边境被移民官员拦下了。他们登上巴士，检查每个人的旅行证件。检查结束后，巴士依然没有动静，其中一名官员与司机用意大利语激烈地争论了起来。我们不知道发生了什么，后来旁边的一个女孩告诉我们，问题出在巴士公司没有缴纳税款。最后，司机下了车，十分钟后他回来了，巴士才重新启动。我们猜测他可能是去缴纳了相关费用。这真是一次奇怪的经历，特别是考虑到FlixBus是一家大型的全球交通公司，类似于美国的Greyhound，而且这条线路是每天都有运营的。实在不明白发生了什么。
与此同时，女儿收到达美航空（Delta）的消息，告知她的航班被取消，直接帮她改签到第二天。这至少让我们不必再担心她会错过航班连接。
在日内瓦火车站与女儿告别后，我们搭乘火车前往德国法兰克福。没有直达火车，我们需要转车。首先坐的是瑞士的火车，从日内瓦来到巴塞尔（Basel）。火车干净准时，而且整个一等车厢只有我们两人。然而，当我们在Basel换乘德国火车后，一切都变了。火车开始晚点，越开晚的越多，一等车厢也迅速被填满。我们在傍晚抵达法兰克福火车总站，然后换乘地区列车前往酒店，酒店位于市场（Market）附近。
稍作休息后，我们去了附近的一家餐馆。刚坐下就觉得这地方有点眼熟。结果还真是，两年前我们曾在这里吃过午餐。我们点了色拉和一大份炸猪排（schnitzel）（两片）来分享。到法兰克福之前就一直想着要吃炸猪排，终于如愿以尝。吃完经过一家土耳其烤肉店（döner），忍不住又点了一份烤肉卷（gyro），味道非常棒。
酒足饭饱从一座铁桥走到对岸，再从另一座桥返回。由于我们两年前曾来过这里，这次就没什么特别的新鲜感。
今天从大清早开始赶路，从意大利到法国，再到瑞士，最后来到德国，一天踏足四个国家。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 10 - Courmayeur 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第十天
August 5, 2024
Today marks the final day of our Mont Blanc adventure......
今天是我们这次勃朗峰行的最后一天。。。
August 5, 2024: Today marks the final day of our Mont Blanc adventure. We hiked the famed Val Veny Balcony Trail, a stunning section of the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) near Courmayeur. The trail is aptly named the "Balcony" because it offers unparalleled, panoramic views of Mont Blanc. The route is relatively long, winding along the mountainside, with steep ascents and descents at both ends. After yesterday’s 7-mile (11 km) hike, we were all feeling a bit fatigued, but we didn’t want to miss out on this last opportunity, so we decided to give it one more effort. At breakfast, we once again encountered the Australian couple, who were heading out for another day of UTMB race training. They gave us more words of encouragement, which lifted our spirits.
We took the free shuttle bus to the base of the mountain and began our ascent. It was clear that our legs were sore today, and climbing felt more challenging than usual. However, we were pleasantly surprised to find that we completed the first uphill section faster than expected. To save time, we decided not to stop at the first mountain hut (Refuge Bonatti) and pressed on. Shortly after, we crossed paths with the Australian couple again, who were running the same TMB route but in the opposite direction. They had already run 14 kilometers since leaving the hotel that morning and cheerfully told us that the trail ahead was beautiful. It seemed like fate that we kept encountering them just when we needed encouragement.
The next section of the trail was relatively flat, with fewer ups and downs, allowing us to walk directly towards Mont Blanc, getting closer with every step. We had planned to take a break and have lunch at the second mountain hut (Refuge Bertone), but it turned out to be much farther away than we had anticipated. After several hours of hiking, we finally spotted the roof, and our spirits soared. We enjoyed a well-deserved lunch and took a break at the hut before starting our final descent back to town.
The descent was challenging, starting with a steep, rocky path. We even saw a hiker take a tumble right in front of us. Over the past few days, with steep and long trails, we’ve come to realize that descending can be more strenuous than ascending. However, knowing this was the final leg of our journey, we felt a sense of relief and lightness as we made our way down.
Earlier in the day, we had met a group of 9- and 10-year-old children on the bus, accompanied by their teacher on a mountain hiking trip. They got off at the same stop as us. We saw them again at the mountain hut during lunch and once more during our descent. We chatted with their teacher, who told us that the children were part of a ski club and very familiar with the mountains. They hiked 6 or 7 kilometers more than we did and soon left us far behind, disappearing from view. Today, we covered 8.3 miles (13.2 km), with an elevation gain of 1,720 feet, taking us five and a half hours.
We finally arrived back in Courmayeur, signaling the end of our Mont Blanc hiking adventure.
Over the past ten days, we hiked 43 miles (69 kilometers) on the TMB, with a total elevation gain of 8,900 feet. Since we used buses and cable cars along the way, our total descent—often harder on the knees—was greater than the ascent. The sections of the TMB we hiked were challenging but manageable, and without a doubt, this has been one of the most rewarding hiking experiences we’ve ever had. The mountain huts (refuges) along the way were incredibly convenient, typically no more than 5 kilometers apart, offering drinks and good food. The "comfort version" of the TMB we chose suited us perfectly. Whether you consider yourself fit or not, everyone should come here and experience it at least once—stay for three or four days, buy a cable car pass, and explore. We might just come back again.
The map shows the hiking routes and cable car lines we took. The gray line represents the traditional TMB.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第十天-库马约尔
2024年8月5日: 今天是我们这次勃朗峰行的最后一天。我们走在著名的瓦尔山谷大阳台山道，是Courmayeur的一段TMB，沿途可以一直看着勃朗峰走，非常漂亮，所以称之为大阳台。路有点长，大部分在山上，二端上下坡比较陡。昨天刚走了7英里/11公里，大家都有点累，但又不想错过这机会，决定再努力一下。早餐时又碰到那对澳大利亚夫妇，正准备出门开始一天的UTMB跑步训练。又是对我们一番鼓励。
我们还是坐免费的大巴来到山脚下，开始往山上走。很明显今天腿有点酸，爬坡觉得很累。没想到的是当我们走完第一段上坡路来到山上时，发现我们花了比预期还少的时间。为了省点时间，我们没在第一个小山屋(Refuge Bonatti)停留，而是接着走。没多久迎面又跑来那对澳大利亚夫妇，他们今天跑我们这条TMB线路，只是相反的方向。从早上离开旅馆到现在他们已经跑了十四公里了，还高兴地对我们说前面很漂亮。感觉与这对老外很有缘，每次在我们有顾虑时他们会出现，鼓励我们。
接下来很长一段路相对来说比较平坦，没有太多的大起大落，真的就是一路迎着勃朗峰走且越走越近。计划在第二个小山屋(Refuge Bertone)休息吃午饭，但这小山屋比我们想象的要远很多。走了好几个小时才终于看到屋顶，心里别提有多高兴了。 在小山屋好好吃了顿午饭同时也得到了必要的休息之后，我们开始今天的最后一段徒步下山回镇。
下山的路不容易，一上来就在乱石中不停地往下走，眼看着一老外就在眼前摔一跤。这些天爬山，坡度大且路还长，充分体会到下山比上山更痛苦。 想到这是这次行程的最后一段路程，最后的冲刺，心情反而变得轻松起来。
早晨在大巴上碰见一群9，10岁男女小学生，老师带着出来爬山，他们在终点下车。中午在小山屋吃饭时又遇到他们。在我们下山时再次遇见他们，与带队老师聊了几句，告诉说孩子们是滑雪俱乐部的，对山熟悉。他们比我们多走了六，七公里，一会儿就远远超过了我们，跑得无影无踪。我们今天走了8.3英里/13.2公里，攀高1720英尺，走了五个半小时。终于下到Courmayeur镇，我们的勃朗峰徒步游也到此结束。
在过去的十天里，我们在TMB（环勃朗峰）徒步了43英里（69公里），总共攀升了8,900英尺。由于我们在途中使用了巴士和缆车，导致总的下降高度——这对膝盖的损伤更大——比攀升高度还要多。我们所走过的TMB部分虽然具有挑战性，但并不困难，毫无疑问，这是我们做过的最棒的徒步旅行之一。沿途的小屋（refuges）非常方便，通常距离徒步路线不会超过5公里，可以在那里享用饮品和不错的食物。我们选择的TMB“舒适版”非常适合我们。无论你是否认为自己体能合适，每个人至少应该来这里体验一下，住上三，四天，买张缆车通票，上上下下看看走走。我们或许还会再来。
地图显示了徒步路线以及缆车线路。灰色线传统的TMB。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 9 - Courmayeur 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第九天
August 4, 2024
This morning at breakfast in the hotel,......
今天早上在旅馆吃早餐时与一对从澳大利亚来的老外闲聊。。。
August 4, 2024: This morning at breakfast in the hotel, we struck up a conversation with a couple from Australia. They were here to train for the wife, who is 64 years old, in preparation for the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB) race at the end of this month. Her husband, 66 years old, was accompanying her as a training partner. The UTMB race covers a grueling 171 km trail around Mont Blanc, crossing France, Italy, and Switzerland, and must be completed within 47 hours. Hearing about their training experiences on the mountains was awe-inspiring. We weren’t even attempting the full circuit, yet completing just a section seemed challenging enough, let alone running the entire course. The couple was incredibly friendly and encouraging, and their positive energy was contagious, boosting our confidence for the day’s hike.
Our plan for this Mont Blanc trip didn’t include completing the full loop; we had decided to skip the Swiss section. After arriving in the Italian town of Courmayeur yesterday, our daughter suggested we should at least hike into Switzerland, even if just to cross the border briefly. The section of the TMB (Tour du Mont Blanc) from Courmayeur to Switzerland is known to be quite challenging, with steep inclines. Connie, who had been exhausted by the first day’s hike, was hesitant to take on another difficult climb. However, the Australian couple’s encouraging words this morning made her reconsider. We seized the moment and set off promptly.
The border between Italy and Switzerland is located at the mountain summit. We started by taking a free bus to the base of the mountain and then began our ascent. The initial trail took us through a pasture with grazing cows, but soon the path became more challenging, with a continuous uphill climb and rough terrain. It took us about an hour and twenty minutes to complete the first leg of the hike and reach a small mountain hut (Refuge Elena).
After a cup of coffee and a brief rest, we began the second leg, aiming for the border point at the summit. This part of the trail was longer, with the first half being even steeper. As we climbed higher, the scenery became increasingly stunning, with the snow-capped peaks drawing closer. After two hours of steady hiking, we finally reached the summit. At the top, there was a sign marking the border between Italy and Switzerland. We took a photo together with one foot in each country, capturing a truly memorable moment. We still had to make the return journey back to the base. Although it’s often said that descending is harder than ascending, Connie seemed to be in great spirits, descending even faster than the rest of us. It seems the Australian couple’s words really gave her a boost.
In the evening, we went to a pizzeria in town for dinner and coincidentally ran into the Australian couple again. When they heard about our hike to the Swiss border, they were thrilled for Connie. “Pain will fade, but the memories will last forever” – this was their parting wisdom, which we found to be profoundly meaningful.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第九天-库马约尔
2024年8月4日： 今天早上在旅馆吃早餐时与一对从澳大利亚来的老外闲聊，他们俩来这里训练为64岁的太太参加这个月底的超级勃朗峰跑步比赛(UTMB)作准备，66岁的先生陪练。跑步比赛是在171公里横跨法国，意大利和瑞士的勃朗峰山路进行，而且必须在47小时之内跑完整个一圈。听他们讲这些天训练爬山的经历，对我们来说简直是不可思议。我们根本不受时间限制，却连走完一圈都做不到，更别说跑了。老外夫妇很开朗健谈，不停地鼓励我们。他们的正能量传染给了我们，让我们对今天的爬山更有了信心。
因为我们这次来勃朗峰并不是走一整圈，计划中不包括瑞士的那部分。昨天来到意大利的库马约尔 （Courmayeur）小镇之后，女儿就说应该至少要爬山进入瑞士，哪怕就只是过一下边境线也行。从Courmayeur这里到瑞士的一段TMB线路并不太好走，比较陡。Connie 被第一天的爬山折磨得一直心有余悸，不愿再次自讨苦吃。今天早上老外夫妇的一席话让Connie的想法有所松动。趁热打铁我们赶紧出发。
意大利和瑞士边境点是在山顶上。首先我们坐免费的大巴来到山脚下，然后就开始往上爬。先从牛群中穿过，之后的路就开始有点难了，主要是一路都是上坡且路不太好走。我们花了差不多一个小时二十分才走完第一段来到一个小山屋（Refuge Elena）。喝杯咖啡稍作休息后我们开始走第二段，目标山顶上的意大利和瑞士边境点。第二段的路更长且前一半全是更陡的上坡路。好在越往上离雪山更近，风景越美。二个小时后我们终于来到山顶。山顶上有一块标牌，说是一边是意大利另一边是瑞士。我们俩脚踩两国照相合影，这一瞬间的感觉真的是很美好的。接下来我们还必须原路返回到山脚。都说上山容易下山难，不过今天好像Connie的状态很不错，一路下山走得比我们都快。看样子被早上老外夫妇的话激励到了。
晚上去镇上披萨店吃饭，又碰到了这对澳大利亚夫妇。得知我们今天爬山到山顶瑞士边境的经历，很为Connie高兴。“伤痛会过去，但记忆永存“ - 这是他们对我们说的一句话，觉得非常有哲理。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 8 - Next Stop 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第八天
August 3, 2024
Today, it was time to move on again......
又到挪窝的时候了。。。
August 3, 2024: Today, it was time to move on again. We bid farewell to France and made our way to Courmayeur, Italy. Although we had taken a cable car to the area when we first arrived at Mont Blanc, we hadn’t yet explored the town itself.
Getting from the small town of Les Contamines-Montjoie to Courmayeur wasn’t straightforward. We had to return to Chamonix and then take a tunnel to Courmayeur. Our initial plan was to take buses the entire way to avoid carrying our luggage on foot. After checking out in the morning, we boarded the Y84 bus, intending to transfer to the Y82 bus at Le Fayet. However, our first bus was delayed by a few minutes at each stop, and by the time we arrived at Le Fayet, we could only watch as our connecting bus drove away. Thankfully, we had chosen Le Fayet as our transfer point for another reason—it also has a train station. In case we missed the bus, we could switch to the train, which we promptly did. We quickly bought tickets for the first two stops, believing that the third stop and beyond would be free based on our previous experience. However, shortly after boarding the train, ticket inspectors informed us that we were required to purchase tickets for the entire journey. Being unfamiliar with the local rules, we paid the difference. Interestingly, instead of a penalty, we received a 50% discount on the additional fare, leaving us even more puzzled by the regulations.
When we finally returned to Chamonix, we were relieved. We still had plenty of time, and we had already purchased tickets for the direct bus from Chamonix to Courmayeur. The tunnel leading from Chamonix to Courmayeur was heavily congested with traffic. After a long journey involving both buses and a train, we eventually arrived on the other side of Mont Blanc, in the Italian town of Courmayeur.
Our hotel was conveniently located near the bus stop. After settling in and taking a brief rest, we set out to explore the town center. The atmosphere in Courmayeur was lively and relaxed, with a vacation-like vibe compared to the hiker-heavy areas of Chamonix and Les Contamines-Montjoie. The main street, although modest in size, was bustling with activity. People were strolling about, many with their dogs, adding to the town's relaxed charm. The street was lined with restaurants and bars, all of which were busy. Outdoor seating was full, with people enjoying drinks and snacks in the warm evening air, making the atmosphere feel both vibrant and inviting. Courmayeur offered a different, more leisurely feel, perfect for unwinding and enjoying the scenic surroundings.
The hotel receptionist recommended an Italian restaurant and kindly called to reserve a table for us. Dinner here is typically served late, and the restaurant, Pierre Alexis 1877, didn’t open until 7:30 PM. Located on a quiet side street, the restaurant occupies a building dating back to 1877. Upon sitting down, we discovered that the restaurant was listed in the 2024 Michelin Guide. They prepared an excellent all-vegan meal for our daughter, and our appetizers and main courses were equally impressive. It was the most refined dinner we’d had on this trip, though it was a bit on the pricey side.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第八天-再转下一站
2024年8月3日： 又到挪窝的时候了，今天我们与法国说再见，前往意大利的库马约尔 （Courmayeur）。刚来勃朗峰时我们曾坐了过山缆车到过那里，但没去小镇。
从我们住的小镇莱斯康塔米纳 （Les Contamines-Montjoie ）到Courmayeur 小镇不是太方便，必须先回到霞慕尼 （Chamonix）再过隧道到Courmayeur。原计划是全程坐大巴，这样不需要拖着行李走路。早晨退了房间后先坐上Y84大巴，计划在Le Fayet 转Y82大巴。结果我们第一辆大巴每停一站就晚几分钟，当我们终于来到Le Fayet时𨚫眼巴巴看着第二辆大巴在我们面前开走。好在当初选Le Fayet 转车还有个原因，那里是火车站，怕万一错过第二辆大巴可以改坐火车。结果还真用上了，赶紧买了前二站的火车票，前几天来时知道第三站以后应该是免费的。可上了火车后不久就开始查票了，说是按规定必须买全程票，要补票。人生地不熟，也不懂这里规矩，补就补吧。有意思的是不但没有罚款，还打了半折，还真不懂这里规矩了。
再次回到Chamonix时总算松了口气，时间还多，第三辆从Chamonix 到Courmayeur直达大巴的票是提前买好。从Chamonix 到Courmayeur的隧道口堵车堵的历害。经过大巴，火车再换大巴我们终于来到勃朗峰的另一边，意大利的Courmayeur小镇。旅馆就在大巴站附近，非常方便。
入住后稍稍休息一下，我们便出门去镇中心熟悉环境。镇中心人很多，之前在Chamonix 和Les Contamines-Montjoie二个小镇看到的大都是大包小包的爬山者，而这里却更像一个度假地。一条不怎么大的主街上许多人牵着狗蹓跶。街道二边的饭店和洒吧桌椅都搭在外面，生意兴隆。大家都在喝酒，吃小点心。
旅馆前台推荐了一家意大利饭店，并帮我们打电话预订了座位。这里晚饭都吃得很晚，订的饭店7:30才开门。我们晚餐的饭店Pierre Alexis 1877躲在在一条比较安静的小路上，是一栋1877年的老房子。坐下才发现饭店上了2024年米其林指南餐厅榜。为女儿专门做的全素晚餐非常棒，我们的开胃菜和主食也相当不错，是这次旅行中吃了一顿最像模像样的晚餐，就是价格贵了一点。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 7-Les Contamines 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第七天
August 2, 2024
Today, we hiked from Les Houches to Les Contamines.......
今天我们从莱斯乌什徒步到莱斯康塔米纳。
August 2, 2024: Today, we hiked from Les Houches to Les Contamines. Connie, still feeling the effects of our first day's challenging hike in Chamonix, found the idea of a 7 to 8-mile hike a bit too much, so she decided to stay in town. Our daughter and Chenggang initially planned to take the bus to Les Houches and then ride the cable car up to Bellevue to start the hike. However, yesterday we discovered that the Mont Blanc Tramway also reaches Bellevue, which would save us some time on the journey.
We set off early, taking the Y84 bus to the center of Saint-Gervais, aiming to catch the 8:00 AM Mont Blanc Tramway from Le Fayet up the mountain. When we arrived at the base, we found out that the 8:00 AM tram had been canceled, so we had to wait for the next one at 9:00 AM.
The first two miles of the hike from Bellevue were relatively flat, including a crossing over a suspension bridge spanning a large stream. After that, we ascended 1,500 feet to the Tricot Pass and then descended steeply by 2,000 feet to the Miage Refuge.
The refuge is a major stop on the TMB, with many hikers enjoying lunch and drinks. We treated ourselves to homemade blueberry pie and other delicious snacks.
After refueling, we continued on the trail. Light rain began to fall, so we put on our rain jackets, but it didn’t deter us from pressing on over another mountain pass before descending back into town. Fortunately, the rain lasted only about 20 minutes before it cleared up. This hike turned out to be the most challenging of our trip so far, covering 7.8 miles (12.4 km) with an elevation gain of 2,300 feet. The trail was both beautiful and demanding, offering stunning views along the way. We returned to town by 5:00 PM.
Although Connie didn’t join us for the hike, she didn’t stay idle. Les Contamines may be a small town, but it’s surrounded by mountains with beautiful scenery, including rivers and chalets, and plenty of trails to explore at your own pace. She ended up walking nearly 5 miles (7.5 km) around the town.
We ended our day with a nice dinner.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第七天-莱斯康塔米纳
2024年8月2日：今天我们从莱斯乌什（Les Houches）徒步到莱斯康塔米纳（Les Contamines）。Connie被第一天在霞慕尼的爬山折磨得很痛苦，觉得7～8英里的徒步对她来说有点长，所以决定她一个人留在镇上。女儿和成刚原本打算乘公交车到莱斯乌什，然后坐缆车上到Bellevue作为徒步起点。但昨天我们发现蒙布朗电车（Tramway Mont Blanc）也到达Bellevue同一地点，还能为我们节省一些路上的时间。
我们早早出发，乘坐Y84巴士前往圣热尔维（Saint-Gervais）市中心。计划是搭乘8:00从勒法耶（Le Fayet）到山上的蒙布朗电车。来到山脚下却发现8:00的电车被取消了，我们只好等9:00的下一班。从Bellevue开始的头两英里徒步相对平坦，还跨过了一座悬在大溪流上的吊桥。接着，我们攀升了1500英尺到Tricot山口（Tricot Pass），然后急降2000英尺到Miage山屋（Refuge de Miage）。这个山屋是TMB的主要停靠点，有很多人在那里享用午餐和饮料。我们品尝了自制的蓝莓派和其它美食，非常美味。
补充体力后，我们再次踏上小径。天开始下起了小雨，我们不得不穿上雨衣，但这并没有阻止我们继续翻越山头，然后下山回到镇上。好在雨下了大约20分钟后就停了。这是我们这次旅行中到目前为止最艰难的一次徒步。行程为7.8英里/12.4公里，攀登高度为2300英尺。但小径美丽而充满挑战，风景如画。我们在下午5点回到了镇上。
Connie 虽然没有与我们一起去徒步，但也没闲着。 莱斯康塔米纳镇虽小，但四面环山，周围环境很漂亮，有山有水有度假屋，还有许许多多的小径，想走多远就能走多远。绕着小镇她居然也走了近5英里/7.5公里。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 6-Les Contamines 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第六天
August 1, 2024
Today was a leisurely day.......
今天是轻松的一天。。。
August 1, 2024: Today was a leisurely day. We took the Y84 bus to the center of Saint-Gervais, then boarded the Mont Blanc Tramway (Tramway du Mont-Blanc) from Le Fayet up to Nid d’Aigle. Unfortunately, Nid d’Aigle was closed for renovations, so we could only go as far as Mont Lachat.
There wasn’t anything available at Mont Lachat station—no food, no drinks, nothing at all. We stayed for about 20 minutes before heading to Bellevue for lunch. The little chalet, La Chalette, was bustling with activity, and we had the best panini and fries there. The lawn in front of the chalet was dotted with deck chairs, and sitting on the grass under the blue sky and white clouds was a perfect way to relax.
After lunch, we took the tram back to Saint-Gervais. Instead of returning to Les Contamines right away, we spent some time exploring Saint-Gervais. We took a coffee break and then strolled around the town center before finally catching the Y84 bus back to Les Contamines.
In Les Contamines, we noticed that the dining options are much more limited compared to Chamonix. Although we didn’t find any particularly enticing restaurants, the food quality was decent. This town is much smaller than Chamonix, with all the restaurants and small supermarkets concentrated along a short main street. After dinner, we took a stroll along the street, and the village was charming under the evening sun. We hadn’t tried crêpes since arriving in France, thinking they were too sweet. But tonight, we gave in and found a restaurant for a late-night snack of crêpes and coffee—though we’re not sure if we’ll do it again.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第六天-莱斯康塔米纳
2024年8月1日：今天是轻松的一天。我们乘坐Y84巴士前往圣热尔维（Saint-Gervais）市中心，然后搭乘从勒法耶（Le Fayet）到山上鹰巢（Nid d’Aigle）的蒙布朗电车（Tramway du Mont-Blanc）。可惜的是，鹰巢因翻修而关闭，所以我们只能到达拉夏山（Mont Lachat）。
拉夏山站周边没吃没喝，什么都没有。我们停留了大约20分钟，然后前往贝尔维尤（Bellevue）吃午餐。小山屋La Chalette 生意特别好，我们在那里吃到了最好吃的帕尼尼（Panini)和炸薯条。小山屋前的草坪上还放了许多折椅，蓝天白云下坐在草坪上休息是再好不过了。午餐后，我们再次乘坐电车返回圣热尔维。我们没有马上回莱斯孔塔米讷（Les Contamines）小镇，而是在圣热尔维稍作停留。先是坐下喝杯咖啡休息，然后在市中心走走。最后才乘坐Y84巴士回到莱斯孔塔米讷。
在莱斯孔塔米讷，我们发现这里的餐饮选择比霞穆尼（Chamonix）少得多。虽然没有找到特别吸引我们的餐馆，但食物质量还不错。这个小镇比起霞慕尼镇要小很多。所有饭店，小超市都集中在短短的一条主街上。晚饭后我们去街上散散步，夕阳下的这个法国小镇很迷人。来法国几天一直没吃法国簿饼（crêpe），觉得太甜。今晚没控制住自己，在街上找了家餐厅吃了个夜宵，簿饼加咖啡，应该不会有下一次了。