Heidelberg and Time to Go Home 海德堡
August 7, 2024
We had been in Frankfurt two years ago......
我们两年前曾来过法兰克福，。。。
August 7, 2024: We had been in Frankfurt two years ago. This time, we decided on a day trip outside the city. Among several candidates, we picked Heidelberg, which was only an hour and twenty minutes by train from Frankfurt. Unfortunately, we missed an early direct train and boarded a train to Darmstadt instead.
In Darmstadt, we decided to explore a little rather than continue immediately to Heidelberg. We took an Uber to see the Russian church and the Wedding Tower in Mathildenhöhe, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Afterward, we leisurely strolled to Luisenplatz. After four weeks without Chinese food, we craved it and found a vendor in a mall near the square serving crispy duck over noodles and stir-fried vegetables with tofu. The meal was delicious, and as we've come to expect, the crispy duck in Europe didn't disappoint—priced the same as chicken dishes.
We didn’t stay in Darmstadt long and caught a train to Heidelberg right after lunch. An Uber took us to the funicular station up to Heidelberg Castle. Though the castle has been destroyed several times, it is considered one of the best castle ruins in the world. This iconic structure, perched on a hill overlooking the city, is a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. It houses the famous Heidelberg Tun, a massive wine barrel—the largest in the world—once used for tax collection as winemakers paid their taxes in wine. The castle offers stunning views of the city and the Old Bridge over the Neckar River.
After visiting the castle, we opted to walk down the hill to the Old Town rather than take the funicular. The Old Town was vibrant and beautiful, with plenty of cafes and restaurants. We sat down for traditional German food. Besides the schnitzel dish, we ordered sausage salad to get some greens, expecting something similar to a chicken salad in the States—meat on top of vegetables. Instead, the salad consisted entirely of sliced sausage. We remembered making the same mistake two years ago! The salad was tasty but just too much sausage.
After dinner, we hurried back to the train station to return to Frankfurt.
Tomorrow, we fly home with Condor, a direct flight to Phoenix. In five weeks, we traveled across eight countries and territories, stopping at 20 destinations. We had a wonderful time and experienced some once-in-a-lifetime moments. We’ll be back on the road again soon.
海德堡-该回家了
2024年8月7日：我们两年前曾来过法兰克福 (Frankfurt)，所以今天决定去城外来个一日游。考虑了几个候选地，最后选择了海德堡 (Heidelberg)，只需乘火车一小时二十分钟即可到达。但我们错过了早班直达火车，之后的火车都必须在另一小镇达姆施塔特 (Darmstadt)转车，于是我们临时决定索性也顺路去达姆施塔特转一转。
到了达姆施塔特后，我们叫了一辆优步 (Uber)，前往马蒂尔登山 (Mathildenhöhe) 的俄罗斯教堂 (Russian Church) 和婚礼塔 (Wedding Tower)，这里是联合国教科文组织世界遗产地，这二个也算是这小镇最有代表性的景点了。之后我们走到镇中心的路易森广场 (Luisenplatz)。离家到现在没吃过中餐，我们开始想念它。于是在广场旁的一家购物中心找到一个摊位，点了脆皮鸭，豆腐炒蔬菜和炒面。味道非常棒，正如我们预期的那样，欧洲的脆皮鸭从未让我们失望过，价格与鸡肉菜相同。
在达姆施塔特我们没有逗留太久，午饭后便搭上火车前往海德堡。一辆优步 (Uber) 带我们到达海德堡城堡 (Heidelberg Castle) 的缆车站，乘坐斜坡缆车到了城堡。虽然这座城堡曾多次被摧毁，但它被认为是世界上保存最好的城堡废墟之一。这座标志性建筑坐落在俯瞰城市的山丘上，是哥特式和文艺复兴式建筑的混合体。城堡内有著名的海德堡大酒桶 (Heidelberg Tun)，这是世界上最大的酒桶，曾用作税收工具，酿酒师们以葡萄酒缴税。站在城堡上可以欣赏到城市和内卡河 (Neckar River) 上的老桥 (Old Bridge) 的绝美景色。
参观完城堡后，我们选择步行下山前往老城区 (Old Town)，而不是乘坐缆车。老城区不仅漂亮而且非常有生机，一条长长的主街上是数不尽的咖啡馆和餐馆。我们坐下来享用传统的德国美食。除了必点的炸猪排 (Schnitzel) ，我们还点了香肠沙拉 (Sausage Salad) 想以此来增加一些绿叶菜，我们以为会像美国的鸡肉沙拉 (Chicken Salad) 一样——肉在蔬菜上面。然而，一大盆沙拉上来全是切成条状的香肠，不见蔬菜。我们这时候突然想起来两年前在德国也犯了同样的错误！虽然沙拉味道不错，但香肠实在太多了。晚餐后，我们坐火车返回法兰克福 。
明天，我们将乘坐德国康多航空 (Condor) 的直航班机从法兰克福飞回凤凰城 (Phoenix)。在五周的时间里，我们游历了七个国家和一个地区(英属直布罗陀），在22个城市/小镇停留。我们度过了美好的时光，留下了难忘的记忆。期待下一次。
One Day in Four Countries - 一天四个国家
August 6, 2024
Today was a busy travel day......
今天是个繁忙的旅行日。。。
August 6, 2024: Today was a busy travel day as our daughter had a noon flight from Geneva to New York City, and we were heading to Frankfurt, Germany. We had an early start, booking a 6:40 am FlixBus to Geneva. The hotel staff went above and beyond, setting up a special breakfast table for us before the usual service hours—an act of kindness we deeply appreciated.
However, our journey didn't begin smoothly. The FlixBus was delayed by half an hour, and without any updates, we started to get anxious. Thankfully, the ride through the tunnel was uneventful. The bus stopped in Chamonix to pick up more passengers and then headed to Geneva. At the France and Switzerland border, we were stopped by French police or immigration officers. They boarded the bus, checking everyone's travel documents. Afterward, there was an unexpected delay as one officer had a heated conversation with the driver in Italian. We were puzzled but later learned from a fellow passenger that the issue was related to unpaid taxes by the bus company. Eventually, the driver resolved the matter—possibly by paying the required fee—and we were back on our way. It was a strange experience, especially considering that FlixBus is a well-known company, akin to Greyhound in the USA, and runs this route daily.
In the midst of all this, our daughter received a notification from Delta that her flight was canceled and rebooked for the next day. At least this meant we no longer had to worry about her missing the flight.
After saying goodbye at Geneva's train station, we caught a Swiss train to a small town in Germany. The train was spotless and punctual, and we had an entire first-class coach to ourselves. But once we switched to a German train, everything changed. The trains began running late, and the first-class coach quickly filled up. We arrived at Frankfurt’s main station late afternoon and then transferred to a regional train that took us to our hotel near the market.
After a short rest, we ventured out to a nearby restaurant. The moment we walked in, it felt familiar. We realized we had dined here two years ago. We shared a schnitzel—two pieces—which were decent. Later, we passed by a döner place and couldn’t resist ordering a gyro. It was delicious.
We ended the evening with a stroll along the river, crossing one iron bridge to the other side and returning over another. Since we had visited this area before, it didn’t excite us as much, so we headed back to the hotel.
We started our day in Italy this morning, traveled through France, Switzerland, and ended our day in Germany.
2024年8月6日：今天是个繁忙的旅行日。女儿中午要从瑞士的日内瓦（Geneva）飞回纽约市（New York City），而我们则要前往德国的法兰克福（Frankfurt）。我们很早就起床，预先买好了早上6:40的大巴（FlixBus）从意大利Courmayeur前往日内瓦。酒店工作人员非常贴心，为我们特意提前准备了一桌早餐，这让我们非常感动。
然而，旅途一开始并不顺利。FlixBus迟到了半个小时，期间没有任何通知。问了其他几位也在等大巴的乘客，都没收到消息。我们开始有些焦虑，因为女儿要赶飞机。终于等到大巴，幸运的是这次过隧道非常顺利，没有遇到任何堵车。出了隧道，巴士来到法国的Chamonix又接了几位乘客之后便一路往日内瓦方向开去。没想到在法国和瑞士边境被移民官员拦下了。他们登上巴士，检查每个人的旅行证件。检查结束后，巴士依然没有动静，其中一名官员与司机用意大利语激烈地争论了起来。我们不知道发生了什么，后来旁边的一个女孩告诉我们，问题出在巴士公司没有缴纳税款。最后，司机下了车，十分钟后他回来了，巴士才重新启动。我们猜测他可能是去缴纳了相关费用。这真是一次奇怪的经历，特别是考虑到FlixBus是一家大型的全球交通公司，类似于美国的Greyhound，而且这条线路是每天都有运营的。实在不明白发生了什么。
与此同时，女儿收到达美航空（Delta）的消息，告知她的航班被取消，直接帮她改签到第二天。这至少让我们不必再担心她会错过航班连接。
在日内瓦火车站与女儿告别后，我们搭乘火车前往德国法兰克福。没有直达火车，我们需要转车。首先坐的是瑞士的火车，从日内瓦来到巴塞尔（Basel）。火车干净准时，而且整个一等车厢只有我们两人。然而，当我们在Basel换乘德国火车后，一切都变了。火车开始晚点，越开晚的越多，一等车厢也迅速被填满。我们在傍晚抵达法兰克福火车总站，然后换乘地区列车前往酒店，酒店位于市场（Market）附近。
稍作休息后，我们去了附近的一家餐馆。刚坐下就觉得这地方有点眼熟。结果还真是，两年前我们曾在这里吃过午餐。我们点了色拉和一大份炸猪排（schnitzel）（两片）来分享。到法兰克福之前就一直想着要吃炸猪排，终于如愿以尝。吃完经过一家土耳其烤肉店（döner），忍不住又点了一份烤肉卷（gyro），味道非常棒。
酒足饭饱从一座铁桥走到对岸，再从另一座桥返回。由于我们两年前曾来过这里，这次就没什么特别的新鲜感。
今天从大清早开始赶路，从意大利到法国，再到瑞士，最后来到德国，一天踏足四个国家。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 10 - Courmayeur 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第十天
August 5, 2024
Today marks the final day of our Mont Blanc adventure......
今天是我们这次勃朗峰行的最后一天。。。
August 5, 2024: Today marks the final day of our Mont Blanc adventure. We hiked the famed Val Veny Balcony Trail, a stunning section of the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) near Courmayeur. The trail is aptly named the "Balcony" because it offers unparalleled, panoramic views of Mont Blanc. The route is relatively long, winding along the mountainside, with steep ascents and descents at both ends. After yesterday’s 7-mile (11 km) hike, we were all feeling a bit fatigued, but we didn’t want to miss out on this last opportunity, so we decided to give it one more effort. At breakfast, we once again encountered the Australian couple, who were heading out for another day of UTMB race training. They gave us more words of encouragement, which lifted our spirits.
We took the free shuttle bus to the base of the mountain and began our ascent. It was clear that our legs were sore today, and climbing felt more challenging than usual. However, we were pleasantly surprised to find that we completed the first uphill section faster than expected. To save time, we decided not to stop at the first mountain hut (Refuge Bonatti) and pressed on. Shortly after, we crossed paths with the Australian couple again, who were running the same TMB route but in the opposite direction. They had already run 14 kilometers since leaving the hotel that morning and cheerfully told us that the trail ahead was beautiful. It seemed like fate that we kept encountering them just when we needed encouragement.
The next section of the trail was relatively flat, with fewer ups and downs, allowing us to walk directly towards Mont Blanc, getting closer with every step. We had planned to take a break and have lunch at the second mountain hut (Refuge Bertone), but it turned out to be much farther away than we had anticipated. After several hours of hiking, we finally spotted the roof, and our spirits soared. We enjoyed a well-deserved lunch and took a break at the hut before starting our final descent back to town.
The descent was challenging, starting with a steep, rocky path. We even saw a hiker take a tumble right in front of us. Over the past few days, with steep and long trails, we’ve come to realize that descending can be more strenuous than ascending. However, knowing this was the final leg of our journey, we felt a sense of relief and lightness as we made our way down.
Earlier in the day, we had met a group of 9- and 10-year-old children on the bus, accompanied by their teacher on a mountain hiking trip. They got off at the same stop as us. We saw them again at the mountain hut during lunch and once more during our descent. We chatted with their teacher, who told us that the children were part of a ski club and very familiar with the mountains. They hiked 6 or 7 kilometers more than we did and soon left us far behind, disappearing from view. Today, we covered 8.3 miles (13.2 km), with an elevation gain of 1,720 feet, taking us five and a half hours.
We finally arrived back in Courmayeur, signaling the end of our Mont Blanc hiking adventure.
Over the past ten days, we hiked 43 miles (69 kilometers) on the TMB, with a total elevation gain of 8,900 feet. Since we used buses and cable cars along the way, our total descent—often harder on the knees—was greater than the ascent. The sections of the TMB we hiked were challenging but manageable, and without a doubt, this has been one of the most rewarding hiking experiences we’ve ever had. The mountain huts (refuges) along the way were incredibly convenient, typically no more than 5 kilometers apart, offering drinks and good food. The "comfort version" of the TMB we chose suited us perfectly. Whether you consider yourself fit or not, everyone should come here and experience it at least once—stay for three or four days, buy a cable car pass, and explore. We might just come back again.
The map shows the hiking routes and cable car lines we took. The gray line represents the traditional TMB.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第十天-库马约尔
2024年8月5日: 今天是我们这次勃朗峰行的最后一天。我们走在著名的瓦尔山谷大阳台山道，是Courmayeur的一段TMB，沿途可以一直看着勃朗峰走，非常漂亮，所以称之为大阳台。路有点长，大部分在山上，二端上下坡比较陡。昨天刚走了7英里/11公里，大家都有点累，但又不想错过这机会，决定再努力一下。早餐时又碰到那对澳大利亚夫妇，正准备出门开始一天的UTMB跑步训练。又是对我们一番鼓励。
我们还是坐免费的大巴来到山脚下，开始往山上走。很明显今天腿有点酸，爬坡觉得很累。没想到的是当我们走完第一段上坡路来到山上时，发现我们花了比预期还少的时间。为了省点时间，我们没在第一个小山屋(Refuge Bonatti)停留，而是接着走。没多久迎面又跑来那对澳大利亚夫妇，他们今天跑我们这条TMB线路，只是相反的方向。从早上离开旅馆到现在他们已经跑了十四公里了，还高兴地对我们说前面很漂亮。感觉与这对老外很有缘，每次在我们有顾虑时他们会出现，鼓励我们。
接下来很长一段路相对来说比较平坦，没有太多的大起大落，真的就是一路迎着勃朗峰走且越走越近。计划在第二个小山屋(Refuge Bertone)休息吃午饭，但这小山屋比我们想象的要远很多。走了好几个小时才终于看到屋顶，心里别提有多高兴了。 在小山屋好好吃了顿午饭同时也得到了必要的休息之后，我们开始今天的最后一段徒步下山回镇。
下山的路不容易，一上来就在乱石中不停地往下走，眼看着一老外就在眼前摔一跤。这些天爬山，坡度大且路还长，充分体会到下山比上山更痛苦。 想到这是这次行程的最后一段路程，最后的冲刺，心情反而变得轻松起来。
早晨在大巴上碰见一群9，10岁男女小学生，老师带着出来爬山，他们在终点下车。中午在小山屋吃饭时又遇到他们。在我们下山时再次遇见他们，与带队老师聊了几句，告诉说孩子们是滑雪俱乐部的，对山熟悉。他们比我们多走了六，七公里，一会儿就远远超过了我们，跑得无影无踪。我们今天走了8.3英里/13.2公里，攀高1720英尺，走了五个半小时。终于下到Courmayeur镇，我们的勃朗峰徒步游也到此结束。
在过去的十天里，我们在TMB（环勃朗峰）徒步了43英里（69公里），总共攀升了8,900英尺。由于我们在途中使用了巴士和缆车，导致总的下降高度——这对膝盖的损伤更大——比攀升高度还要多。我们所走过的TMB部分虽然具有挑战性，但并不困难，毫无疑问，这是我们做过的最棒的徒步旅行之一。沿途的小屋（refuges）非常方便，通常距离徒步路线不会超过5公里，可以在那里享用饮品和不错的食物。我们选择的TMB“舒适版”非常适合我们。无论你是否认为自己体能合适，每个人至少应该来这里体验一下，住上三，四天，买张缆车通票，上上下下看看走走。我们或许还会再来。
地图显示了徒步路线以及缆车线路。灰色线传统的TMB。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 9 - Courmayeur 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第九天
August 4, 2024
This morning at breakfast in the hotel,......
今天早上在旅馆吃早餐时与一对从澳大利亚来的老外闲聊。。。
August 4, 2024: This morning at breakfast in the hotel, we struck up a conversation with a couple from Australia. They were here to train for the wife, who is 64 years old, in preparation for the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB) race at the end of this month. Her husband, 66 years old, was accompanying her as a training partner. The UTMB race covers a grueling 171 km trail around Mont Blanc, crossing France, Italy, and Switzerland, and must be completed within 47 hours. Hearing about their training experiences on the mountains was awe-inspiring. We weren’t even attempting the full circuit, yet completing just a section seemed challenging enough, let alone running the entire course. The couple was incredibly friendly and encouraging, and their positive energy was contagious, boosting our confidence for the day’s hike.
Our plan for this Mont Blanc trip didn’t include completing the full loop; we had decided to skip the Swiss section. After arriving in the Italian town of Courmayeur yesterday, our daughter suggested we should at least hike into Switzerland, even if just to cross the border briefly. The section of the TMB (Tour du Mont Blanc) from Courmayeur to Switzerland is known to be quite challenging, with steep inclines. Connie, who had been exhausted by the first day’s hike, was hesitant to take on another difficult climb. However, the Australian couple’s encouraging words this morning made her reconsider. We seized the moment and set off promptly.
The border between Italy and Switzerland is located at the mountain summit. We started by taking a free bus to the base of the mountain and then began our ascent. The initial trail took us through a pasture with grazing cows, but soon the path became more challenging, with a continuous uphill climb and rough terrain. It took us about an hour and twenty minutes to complete the first leg of the hike and reach a small mountain hut (Refuge Elena).
After a cup of coffee and a brief rest, we began the second leg, aiming for the border point at the summit. This part of the trail was longer, with the first half being even steeper. As we climbed higher, the scenery became increasingly stunning, with the snow-capped peaks drawing closer. After two hours of steady hiking, we finally reached the summit. At the top, there was a sign marking the border between Italy and Switzerland. We took a photo together with one foot in each country, capturing a truly memorable moment. We still had to make the return journey back to the base. Although it’s often said that descending is harder than ascending, Connie seemed to be in great spirits, descending even faster than the rest of us. It seems the Australian couple’s words really gave her a boost.
In the evening, we went to a pizzeria in town for dinner and coincidentally ran into the Australian couple again. When they heard about our hike to the Swiss border, they were thrilled for Connie. “Pain will fade, but the memories will last forever” – this was their parting wisdom, which we found to be profoundly meaningful.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第九天-库马约尔
2024年8月4日： 今天早上在旅馆吃早餐时与一对从澳大利亚来的老外闲聊，他们俩来这里训练为64岁的太太参加这个月底的超级勃朗峰跑步比赛(UTMB)作准备，66岁的先生陪练。跑步比赛是在171公里横跨法国，意大利和瑞士的勃朗峰山路进行，而且必须在47小时之内跑完整个一圈。听他们讲这些天训练爬山的经历，对我们来说简直是不可思议。我们根本不受时间限制，却连走完一圈都做不到，更别说跑了。老外夫妇很开朗健谈，不停地鼓励我们。他们的正能量传染给了我们，让我们对今天的爬山更有了信心。
因为我们这次来勃朗峰并不是走一整圈，计划中不包括瑞士的那部分。昨天来到意大利的库马约尔 （Courmayeur）小镇之后，女儿就说应该至少要爬山进入瑞士，哪怕就只是过一下边境线也行。从Courmayeur这里到瑞士的一段TMB线路并不太好走，比较陡。Connie 被第一天的爬山折磨得一直心有余悸，不愿再次自讨苦吃。今天早上老外夫妇的一席话让Connie的想法有所松动。趁热打铁我们赶紧出发。
意大利和瑞士边境点是在山顶上。首先我们坐免费的大巴来到山脚下，然后就开始往上爬。先从牛群中穿过，之后的路就开始有点难了，主要是一路都是上坡且路不太好走。我们花了差不多一个小时二十分才走完第一段来到一个小山屋（Refuge Elena）。喝杯咖啡稍作休息后我们开始走第二段，目标山顶上的意大利和瑞士边境点。第二段的路更长且前一半全是更陡的上坡路。好在越往上离雪山更近，风景越美。二个小时后我们终于来到山顶。山顶上有一块标牌，说是一边是意大利另一边是瑞士。我们俩脚踩两国照相合影，这一瞬间的感觉真的是很美好的。接下来我们还必须原路返回到山脚。都说上山容易下山难，不过今天好像Connie的状态很不错，一路下山走得比我们都快。看样子被早上老外夫妇的话激励到了。
晚上去镇上披萨店吃饭，又碰到了这对澳大利亚夫妇。得知我们今天爬山到山顶瑞士边境的经历，很为Connie高兴。“伤痛会过去，但记忆永存“ - 这是他们对我们说的一句话，觉得非常有哲理。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 8 - Next Stop 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第八天
August 3, 2024
Today, it was time to move on again......
又到挪窝的时候了。。。
August 3, 2024: Today, it was time to move on again. We bid farewell to France and made our way to Courmayeur, Italy. Although we had taken a cable car to the area when we first arrived at Mont Blanc, we hadn’t yet explored the town itself.
Getting from the small town of Les Contamines-Montjoie to Courmayeur wasn’t straightforward. We had to return to Chamonix and then take a tunnel to Courmayeur. Our initial plan was to take buses the entire way to avoid carrying our luggage on foot. After checking out in the morning, we boarded the Y84 bus, intending to transfer to the Y82 bus at Le Fayet. However, our first bus was delayed by a few minutes at each stop, and by the time we arrived at Le Fayet, we could only watch as our connecting bus drove away. Thankfully, we had chosen Le Fayet as our transfer point for another reason—it also has a train station. In case we missed the bus, we could switch to the train, which we promptly did. We quickly bought tickets for the first two stops, believing that the third stop and beyond would be free based on our previous experience. However, shortly after boarding the train, ticket inspectors informed us that we were required to purchase tickets for the entire journey. Being unfamiliar with the local rules, we paid the difference. Interestingly, instead of a penalty, we received a 50% discount on the additional fare, leaving us even more puzzled by the regulations.
When we finally returned to Chamonix, we were relieved. We still had plenty of time, and we had already purchased tickets for the direct bus from Chamonix to Courmayeur. The tunnel leading from Chamonix to Courmayeur was heavily congested with traffic. After a long journey involving both buses and a train, we eventually arrived on the other side of Mont Blanc, in the Italian town of Courmayeur.
Our hotel was conveniently located near the bus stop. After settling in and taking a brief rest, we set out to explore the town center. The atmosphere in Courmayeur was lively and relaxed, with a vacation-like vibe compared to the hiker-heavy areas of Chamonix and Les Contamines-Montjoie. The main street, although modest in size, was bustling with activity. People were strolling about, many with their dogs, adding to the town's relaxed charm. The street was lined with restaurants and bars, all of which were busy. Outdoor seating was full, with people enjoying drinks and snacks in the warm evening air, making the atmosphere feel both vibrant and inviting. Courmayeur offered a different, more leisurely feel, perfect for unwinding and enjoying the scenic surroundings.
The hotel receptionist recommended an Italian restaurant and kindly called to reserve a table for us. Dinner here is typically served late, and the restaurant, Pierre Alexis 1877, didn’t open until 7:30 PM. Located on a quiet side street, the restaurant occupies a building dating back to 1877. Upon sitting down, we discovered that the restaurant was listed in the 2024 Michelin Guide. They prepared an excellent all-vegan meal for our daughter, and our appetizers and main courses were equally impressive. It was the most refined dinner we’d had on this trip, though it was a bit on the pricey side.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第八天-再转下一站
2024年8月3日： 又到挪窝的时候了，今天我们与法国说再见，前往意大利的库马约尔 （Courmayeur）。刚来勃朗峰时我们曾坐了过山缆车到过那里，但没去小镇。
从我们住的小镇莱斯康塔米纳 （Les Contamines-Montjoie ）到Courmayeur 小镇不是太方便，必须先回到霞慕尼 （Chamonix）再过隧道到Courmayeur。原计划是全程坐大巴，这样不需要拖着行李走路。早晨退了房间后先坐上Y84大巴，计划在Le Fayet 转Y82大巴。结果我们第一辆大巴每停一站就晚几分钟，当我们终于来到Le Fayet时𨚫眼巴巴看着第二辆大巴在我们面前开走。好在当初选Le Fayet 转车还有个原因，那里是火车站，怕万一错过第二辆大巴可以改坐火车。结果还真用上了，赶紧买了前二站的火车票，前几天来时知道第三站以后应该是免费的。可上了火车后不久就开始查票了，说是按规定必须买全程票，要补票。人生地不熟，也不懂这里规矩，补就补吧。有意思的是不但没有罚款，还打了半折，还真不懂这里规矩了。
再次回到Chamonix时总算松了口气，时间还多，第三辆从Chamonix 到Courmayeur直达大巴的票是提前买好。从Chamonix 到Courmayeur的隧道口堵车堵的历害。经过大巴，火车再换大巴我们终于来到勃朗峰的另一边，意大利的Courmayeur小镇。旅馆就在大巴站附近，非常方便。
入住后稍稍休息一下，我们便出门去镇中心熟悉环境。镇中心人很多，之前在Chamonix 和Les Contamines-Montjoie二个小镇看到的大都是大包小包的爬山者，而这里却更像一个度假地。一条不怎么大的主街上许多人牵着狗蹓跶。街道二边的饭店和洒吧桌椅都搭在外面，生意兴隆。大家都在喝酒，吃小点心。
旅馆前台推荐了一家意大利饭店，并帮我们打电话预订了座位。这里晚饭都吃得很晚，订的饭店7:30才开门。我们晚餐的饭店Pierre Alexis 1877躲在在一条比较安静的小路上，是一栋1877年的老房子。坐下才发现饭店上了2024年米其林指南餐厅榜。为女儿专门做的全素晚餐非常棒，我们的开胃菜和主食也相当不错，是这次旅行中吃了一顿最像模像样的晚餐，就是价格贵了一点。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 7-Les Contamines 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第七天
August 2, 2024
Today, we hiked from Les Houches to Les Contamines.......
今天我们从莱斯乌什徒步到莱斯康塔米纳。
August 2, 2024: Today, we hiked from Les Houches to Les Contamines. Connie, still feeling the effects of our first day's challenging hike in Chamonix, found the idea of a 7 to 8-mile hike a bit too much, so she decided to stay in town. Our daughter and Chenggang initially planned to take the bus to Les Houches and then ride the cable car up to Bellevue to start the hike. However, yesterday we discovered that the Mont Blanc Tramway also reaches Bellevue, which would save us some time on the journey.
We set off early, taking the Y84 bus to the center of Saint-Gervais, aiming to catch the 8:00 AM Mont Blanc Tramway from Le Fayet up the mountain. When we arrived at the base, we found out that the 8:00 AM tram had been canceled, so we had to wait for the next one at 9:00 AM.
The first two miles of the hike from Bellevue were relatively flat, including a crossing over a suspension bridge spanning a large stream. After that, we ascended 1,500 feet to the Tricot Pass and then descended steeply by 2,000 feet to the Miage Refuge.
The refuge is a major stop on the TMB, with many hikers enjoying lunch and drinks. We treated ourselves to homemade blueberry pie and other delicious snacks.
After refueling, we continued on the trail. Light rain began to fall, so we put on our rain jackets, but it didn’t deter us from pressing on over another mountain pass before descending back into town. Fortunately, the rain lasted only about 20 minutes before it cleared up. This hike turned out to be the most challenging of our trip so far, covering 7.8 miles (12.4 km) with an elevation gain of 2,300 feet. The trail was both beautiful and demanding, offering stunning views along the way. We returned to town by 5:00 PM.
Although Connie didn’t join us for the hike, she didn’t stay idle. Les Contamines may be a small town, but it’s surrounded by mountains with beautiful scenery, including rivers and chalets, and plenty of trails to explore at your own pace. She ended up walking nearly 5 miles (7.5 km) around the town.
We ended our day with a nice dinner.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第七天-莱斯康塔米纳
2024年8月2日：今天我们从莱斯乌什（Les Houches）徒步到莱斯康塔米纳（Les Contamines）。Connie被第一天在霞慕尼的爬山折磨得很痛苦，觉得7～8英里的徒步对她来说有点长，所以决定她一个人留在镇上。女儿和成刚原本打算乘公交车到莱斯乌什，然后坐缆车上到Bellevue作为徒步起点。但昨天我们发现蒙布朗电车（Tramway Mont Blanc）也到达Bellevue同一地点，还能为我们节省一些路上的时间。
我们早早出发，乘坐Y84巴士前往圣热尔维（Saint-Gervais）市中心。计划是搭乘8:00从勒法耶（Le Fayet）到山上的蒙布朗电车。来到山脚下却发现8:00的电车被取消了，我们只好等9:00的下一班。从Bellevue开始的头两英里徒步相对平坦，还跨过了一座悬在大溪流上的吊桥。接着，我们攀升了1500英尺到Tricot山口（Tricot Pass），然后急降2000英尺到Miage山屋（Refuge de Miage）。这个山屋是TMB的主要停靠点，有很多人在那里享用午餐和饮料。我们品尝了自制的蓝莓派和其它美食，非常美味。
补充体力后，我们再次踏上小径。天开始下起了小雨，我们不得不穿上雨衣，但这并没有阻止我们继续翻越山头，然后下山回到镇上。好在雨下了大约20分钟后就停了。这是我们这次旅行中到目前为止最艰难的一次徒步。行程为7.8英里/12.4公里，攀登高度为2300英尺。但小径美丽而充满挑战，风景如画。我们在下午5点回到了镇上。
Connie 虽然没有与我们一起去徒步，但也没闲着。 莱斯康塔米纳镇虽小，但四面环山，周围环境很漂亮，有山有水有度假屋，还有许许多多的小径，想走多远就能走多远。绕着小镇她居然也走了近5英里/7.5公里。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 6-Les Contamines 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第六天
August 1, 2024
Today was a leisurely day.......
今天是轻松的一天。。。
August 1, 2024: Today was a leisurely day. We took the Y84 bus to the center of Saint-Gervais, then boarded the Mont Blanc Tramway (Tramway du Mont-Blanc) from Le Fayet up to Nid d’Aigle. Unfortunately, Nid d’Aigle was closed for renovations, so we could only go as far as Mont Lachat.
There wasn’t anything available at Mont Lachat station—no food, no drinks, nothing at all. We stayed for about 20 minutes before heading to Bellevue for lunch. The little chalet, La Chalette, was bustling with activity, and we had the best panini and fries there. The lawn in front of the chalet was dotted with deck chairs, and sitting on the grass under the blue sky and white clouds was a perfect way to relax.
After lunch, we took the tram back to Saint-Gervais. Instead of returning to Les Contamines right away, we spent some time exploring Saint-Gervais. We took a coffee break and then strolled around the town center before finally catching the Y84 bus back to Les Contamines.
In Les Contamines, we noticed that the dining options are much more limited compared to Chamonix. Although we didn’t find any particularly enticing restaurants, the food quality was decent. This town is much smaller than Chamonix, with all the restaurants and small supermarkets concentrated along a short main street. After dinner, we took a stroll along the street, and the village was charming under the evening sun. We hadn’t tried crêpes since arriving in France, thinking they were too sweet. But tonight, we gave in and found a restaurant for a late-night snack of crêpes and coffee—though we’re not sure if we’ll do it again.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第六天-莱斯康塔米纳
2024年8月1日：今天是轻松的一天。我们乘坐Y84巴士前往圣热尔维（Saint-Gervais）市中心，然后搭乘从勒法耶（Le Fayet）到山上鹰巢（Nid d’Aigle）的蒙布朗电车（Tramway du Mont-Blanc）。可惜的是，鹰巢因翻修而关闭，所以我们只能到达拉夏山（Mont Lachat）。
拉夏山站周边没吃没喝，什么都没有。我们停留了大约20分钟，然后前往贝尔维尤（Bellevue）吃午餐。小山屋La Chalette 生意特别好，我们在那里吃到了最好吃的帕尼尼（Panini)和炸薯条。小山屋前的草坪上还放了许多折椅，蓝天白云下坐在草坪上休息是再好不过了。午餐后，我们再次乘坐电车返回圣热尔维。我们没有马上回莱斯孔塔米讷（Les Contamines）小镇，而是在圣热尔维稍作停留。先是坐下喝杯咖啡休息，然后在市中心走走。最后才乘坐Y84巴士回到莱斯孔塔米讷。
在莱斯孔塔米讷，我们发现这里的餐饮选择比霞穆尼（Chamonix）少得多。虽然没有找到特别吸引我们的餐馆，但食物质量还不错。这个小镇比起霞慕尼镇要小很多。所有饭店，小超市都集中在短短的一条主街上。晚饭后我们去街上散散步，夕阳下的这个法国小镇很迷人。来法国几天一直没吃法国簿饼（crêpe），觉得太甜。今晚没控制住自己，在街上找了家餐厅吃了个夜宵，簿饼加咖啡，应该不会有下一次了。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 5-Les Contamines 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第五天
July 31, 2024
Today was a hiking day......
今天是徒步日。。。
July 31, 2024: Today was a hiking day. We started the day by taking the free shuttle to Notre Dame de la Gorge, a charming and historic chapel that serves as a key starting or ending point for the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB). After a brief visit, we took the Gorge cable car up and then transferred to another one to reach Signal.
From Signal, we hiked 2.6 miles to Refuge des Prés. The hiking was not too hard and the view was magnificent.
At the refuge, we enjoyed a delicious lunch while Chenggang had his own sandwich bought in the town.
We were mindful of the lift's closing time at 5 pm, so this time we didn’t delay and made sure to head back promptly. The round trip hike covered 5.2 miles with a 1,200 ft elevation gain, which we completed in 3.5 hours. Upon returning to the cable car station, we found ourselves with some extra time. We decided to relax and have another drink at the café, soaking in the magnificent views of the surrounding landscape. When we finally descended back to the base, we opted for the shuttle instead of walking back to town.
Overall, it was a perfect day of hiking—ideal weather, breathtaking views, and just the right amount of distance and elevation. We returned to the town and found a well-reviewed restaurant to enjoy a hearty meal as a reward for ourselves.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第五天-莱斯康塔米纳
2024年7月31日：今天是徒步日。我们搭乘免费的班车前往圣母峡谷教堂（（Notre Dame de la Gorge）。这是一座迷人的历史教堂，也是环勃朗峰徒步线路（TMB）的一个重要起点或终点。短暂参观后，我们乘坐峡谷缆车上山，然后换乘另一条缆车到达信号(Signal)。
从信号出发，我们徒步了2.6英里到达了普雷斯小山屋（Refuge des Pres)。路不算太难，但最后半个多小时的上坡路还是有点气喘吁吁的。眼看着小山屋就在前方，却感觉怎么都走不到。在那里享用了一顿丰盛的午餐之后，因为缆车下午5点关闭，这次我们吸取了教训，毫不耽搁地开始返回。整个往返徒步行程为5.2英里/8.3公里，海拔爬升1200英尺，我们用3.5小时完成了全部行程。
回到缆车站时，我们发现还有充裕的时间，于是我们三人在咖啡馆里坐下休息，喝些饮料，欣赏周围的美景。下到山脚后，我们不太想再走回镇上，于是又搭乘了免费班车。这是一次很棒的徒步之旅——完美的天气、令人叹为观止的景色，以及恰到好处的徒步距离和海拔爬升。
回到镇上找了家评论不错的饭店饱餐一顿犒劳一下自己。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 4- next stop 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第四天
July 30, 2024
We moved to the next town, ......
今天我们搬到了下一个小镇，。。。
July 30, 2024: We moved to the next town, Les Contamines-Montjoie, France, today. Although Les Contamines is only 20 miles away from Chamonix, there is no direct public transportation. We had to transfer in Saint-Gervais, by an hourly train or bus that runs every two hours. We opted for the train to Saint-Gervais, with the main train station in Chamonix being a 15-minute walk from our hotel. While the regional train is free within the Chamonix valley, it does not cover our destination, so we had to purchase tickets for the last two stops.
The train arrived at Saint-Gervais on time, but the bus to Les Contamines was more than an hour away, so we took the opportunity to enjoy a French lunch of crepes with ham and cheese at a nearby café.
We eventually boarded bus Y84 to Les Contamines. The two-bedroom apartment we rented was just a 2-minute walk from the bus stop. It was a nice apartment, but interestingly, we had to rent the bedding and towels separately. We also discovered no toilet paper and other essentials in the unit. Fortunately, there are three supermarkets nearby, so we bought the necessities for our stay. Once we settled in, we were eager to explore the area.
A community concert was happening in a park near Notre Dame de la Gorge, so we took a free city shuttle to check it out. The park, an adventure activity area for kids, had a BBQ restaurant where a two-man band was playing and singing. We sat there, sipping espresso and enjoying ice cream while listening to the music.
Afterward, we followed the TMB signs and walked about 2 miles back to town. Dinner was a pre-made pizza from the nearby grocery store Carrefour, and it wasn't bad at all.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第四天 - 赶往下一站
2024年7月30日：今天我们搬到了下一个小镇——法国的莱斯康塔米纳（Les Contamines-Montjoie）。虽然莱斯康塔米纳距离霞慕尼（Chamonix）只有20英里，但没有直达的公共交通。我们不得不在圣热尔韦（Saint-Gervais）转乘，可以选择每小时一班的火车或每两小时一班的巴士。我们选择了乘火车到圣热尔韦，从我们酒店步行到霞慕尼的主要火车站大约需要15分钟。虽然霞慕尼山谷内的区域火车是免费的，但它不包括我们的目的地，因此我们不得不为最后两站购买车票。
火车准时到达圣热尔韦，但到莱斯康塔米纳的巴士还有一个多小时才到，于是我们利用这段时间在附近的饭店享用了法式午餐——火腿奶酪可丽饼。
最终我们登上了Y84路巴士前往莱斯康塔米纳。我们租的短期两居室公寓（Airbnb)距离巴士站仅有2分钟的步行路程。公寓很不错，厨房设备齐全。但奇怪的是，我们需要租用床上用品和浴室毛巾。我们还发现公寓里没有任何基本的生活必需品包括卫生纸。幸运的是，附近有三家超市，我们买了所需的用品。安顿好之后我们便出门去熟悉一下这个小镇及周边。
在靠近圣母教堂（Notre Dame de la Gorge）的一座公园里正在举行社区音乐会，于是我们搭乘免费的市区班车去看了看。到那里才发现这个公园是一个为孩子们设立的冒险活动区。里面有一家餐厅，两名歌手边弹边唱，有不少观众坐着观看。我们也凑个热闹，坐下一边喝着咖啡，一边吃着冰淇淋，享受现场音乐表演。
之后，我们沿着TMB的指示牌步行了大约2英里回到了小镇。晚餐是从家乐福（Carrefour）买的预制披萨，在租的公寓里自己烤了吃。出乎意料，披萨味道很好，不比饭店的差。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 3 -Chamonix 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第三天
July 29, 2024
Today, we each had different plans......
今天我们各自安排了不同的活动。。。
July 29, 2024: Today, we each had different plans: Chenggang went hiking alone, while Connie and our daughter opted for a more relaxed day, making use of their cable car passes.
Chenggang set off early, walking about 1.5 miles to the La Flégère valley station in Les Praz. From there, he took the cable car up to La Flégère and then transferred to the ski lift heading to L’Index. The mountain was incredibly peaceful in the morning. As he slowly ascended on the lift, it felt like he was the only person on the mountain, with only the gentle breeze and the distant sound of cowbells keeping him company—a scene straight out of a dream. After a brief stop at the top, he took the lift back down to La Flégère.
From La Flégère, Chenggang hiked to Planpraz, covering 3.3 miles (5.6 km) with an elevation gain of 1,100 feet. He completed the hike in less than two hours. At the 2000 Alt restaurant, he enjoyed an espresso and sparkling water, along with a ham and cheese sandwich he had brought for lunch. Afterward, he took the cable car back down to town, wrapping up his day of hiking.
Meanwhile, Connie and her daughter planned to visit the Aiguille du Midi again in the morning, as they hadn’t had time to visit the glass box at the top tower yesterday. However, just having a pass wasn’t enough—they also needed a timed entry ticket, and the earliest slot they could get was at 2:30 pm. With a few hours to spare, they took the bus to Les Praz, then the cable car up to La Flégère, and the lift to L’Index. By the time they arrived at La Flégère, Chenggang was long gone to Planpraz. They also saw the herds of cows and sheep grazing on the slopes, with patches of snow still on the mountains. The stunning scenery made the cable car ride worthwhile for the mother and daughter, who preferred not to hike. They had lunch at the Refuge de La Flégère midway up the mountain, then returned to town to prepare for their visit to the Aiguille du Midi.
At the cable car station, they watched a 20-minute 4D movie about Mont Blanc, which made the audience feel as if they were flying through the sky like birds, taking in the majestic views of Mont Blanc and experiencing the sensation of lightning, thunder, and snowstorms. Both found it to be a fascinating experience.
The glass box at the Aiguille du Midi, known as the “Step into the Void,” is the highest attraction in Europe. After taking the cable car, they had to take an elevator to the topmost level. All personal belongings had to be stored away, and they had to wear special slippers before stepping into the small glass box. Connie said standing there made her knees weak, and she didn’t dare to look down much. Groups of two to three people were quickly ushered in and out, with staff helping to take photos. Of course, the quality of the pictures wasn’t guaranteed.
After descending from the Aiguille du Midi, they returned to Chamonix town center to meet Chenggang for dinner. The town has countless restaurants, and we let our daughter pick one she liked.
We have spent several days in Chamonix, but tomorrow it’s time to move on to their next destination.
2024年7月29日: 今天我们各自安排了不同的活动：Chenggang去徒步，而Connie和女儿则继续使用缆车通票来个轻松游。
Chenggang一大早出发，步行约1.5英里到达Les Praz的La Flégère缆车山谷站，然后乘坐缆车上到La Flégère，接着换乘滑雪用的升降椅前往de L’Index。早晨的山间非常安静。坐在升降椅上慢慢往山上去，整座山仿佛只有自己一个人，伴随着微风和远处的牛铃声，宛如置身梦境。来到在山顶上稍作停留，便又坐升降椅返回La Flégère。
从Flégère开始徒步到Planpraz，全程3.3英里/5.6公里，海拔上升1100英尺。Chenggang用了不到两个小时完成了这段徒步。在2000 Alt餐厅喝上一杯意式浓缩咖啡和气泡水，再加早上买了带着的火腿奶酪三明治作为午餐。之后乘坐缆车回到了镇上，结束了这一天的短程徒步。
与此同时，Connie和女儿计划早上再去南针峰（Aiguille du Midi），因为昨天没时间去最高塔里的玻璃屋。但坐这缆车光有票还不够，还必须拿时间段的票，结果她们只拿到了下午2:30的票。于是她们乘公交车也去了Les Praz，然后也乘坐缆车到La Flégère，再坐升降椅上到de L’Index。沿途山坡上有成群的牛羊，山上还有雪。这么漂亮，对不愿爬山的母女俩来说光是坐个缆车来上面看看景发个呆也蛮不错。她们在半山腰的Refuge de La Flégère吃了午餐，随后返回镇中心准备上Aiguille du Midi峰。缆车站有放关于勃朗峰的4D电影，二十分的4D短片让观众像鸟一样在天空中飞翔，看勃朗峰的雄姿，同时也感受到电闪雷鸣，风雪交加的滋味，她们俩都觉得是一次蛮有意思的经历。
南针峰上的空中玻璃屋(Step into the the Void)是欧洲最高的景点，除了坐缆车，还要另外再坐电梯上到最高层面。必须将所有的随身物品存放掉，换上专门提供的拖鞋慢慢走进小玻璃屋。Connie说站在那里让人腿发软，不怎么敢往下看。二到三人一组快进快出，工作人员帮忙拍照留念。当然照片的质量就不能保证了。
从南针峰下来回到霞慕尼 (Chamonix)镇中心与Chenggang 会合吃晚饭。镇上饭店不计其数，女儿找了家她喜欢的饭店。
来霞慕尼好几天了，明天要去下一站。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 2-Chamonix 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第二天
July 28, 2024
We took a scheduled rest day today.....
今天是我们的休息日。。。
July 28, 2024: We took a scheduled rest day today after a long hour hike yesterday. We bought a two-day lift pass to use the lifts to explore the area. Due to the high wind in the mountains, the Mont Blanc Panoramic cable car was not open in the morning. But we were told the update for the panoramic ride was at noon, so we booked the gondola for Midi before 12.
Today’s weather was perfect. First, the gondola took us to Plan De l’aiguille then switched to a different gondola to Aiguille du Midi at 12605 feet, the highest cable car in France. Once we were at the top, we quickly went to the ticket window for Panoramic Mont Blanc, and it had just started to open. Panoramic Mont Blanc Cable Car is a 30-minute ride over the glaciers from Aiguille du Midi in France to Pointe Helbronner in Italy with a panoramic view of the Mont Blanc massif. We embarked on one of three cars in a group and had a once-a-lifetime cable ride. We were completely surrounded by the blue sky and the mountains capped with white glaciers. We admired roped climbers scaling the glaciers below as our cable car moved slowly from France to Italy.
After getting off at Pointe Helbronner in Italy, at an elevation of 11,358 ft (3,462 m), we wanted to have lunch at the mountaintop restaurant, but it was already fully booked. So, we just had a coffee and a small pastry as a quick snack. Then, we went to the small 360-degree viewing platform at the summit to take photos of Mont Blanc at the closest distance.
At Pointe Helbronner, we used our two-day lift passes to get on a Skyway cable car down to Courmayeur, Italy. There is not much near the Skyway station, so we just had drinks in a cafe, went up via Skyway, and got off in the middle to visit Europe’s highest garden.
We knew the cable car back to France would be closed at 4:30 pm. At 4:10 pm, we were in a hurry to return to the cable car station for another 5-minute ride to the Pointe Helbronnor. However, we barely missed a gondola and waited for the next one, which would take us up to the top to catch the Panoramic Cable Car. The gondola came, and the crews decided to clean up the car and started to do the maintenance. It made us anxious, but there was nothing we could do about it. We patiently waited until they finished the job and started the gondola again. When the car reached the top, three of us rushed to the cable car station at 4:28 pm. The door to the embarking area was already closed. A crew member opened the door and let us in. We were the last people in the last car to leave Italy. We were so grateful that we made it. If not, we had to go down to Courmayeur again and perhaps take the bus going through the tunnel back to Chamonix.
The Panoramic Cable Car ride back to Aiguille du Midi was even better. The experience of traveling over glaciers and surrounded by mountains was one of the best we had had, probably second to the experience in Antarctica.
Once at the Midi point, we continued to explore the area. We watched two Austrian climbers come down from the rock and took some pictures of them. Later, we sent those pictures to them via WhatsApp. They started at 8:30 am and finished at 6 pm. We wanted to spend more time at the top, but the last car down was 6:30 pm. They closed the area, and we were the last group to go down.
It was supposed to be a break day, but we didn’t make it easy. Once we were back in town, we had dinner in an Indian restaurant. The food was delicious, probably anything delicious after a whole day's activity. Chamonix was very charming and beautiful in the evening. It’s perfect for an after-meal walk.
2024年7月28日：昨天的长途跋涉让我们疲惫不堪，今天是我们的休息日，不爬山。我们买了两日的霞慕尼（Chamonix)缆车通票，方便游玩。今天早上由于山上风太大，山顶上的勃朗峰全景缆车没开。不过工作人员告诉我们，12点会有信息更新。我们决定在中午12点之前先乘坐缆车到南针峰（Aiguille Du Midi)。
今天的天气非常理想。首先我们乘坐缆车到达普朗德拉艾居站，然后换乘另一条缆车到达法国最高的缆车站——海拔12,605英尺的南针峰。到达山顶后，我们立刻去全景缆车售票窗口，发现缆车刚刚开放。勃朗峰全景缆车是一次30分钟的旅程，从法国的南针峰跨越冰川到达意大利的赫尔布罗纳峰，沿途可以欣赏到勃朗峰山脉的壮丽景色。小缆车在半空中被蔚蓝的天空和白雪覆盖的山峰环绕，慢慢地将我们从法国带到了意大利。沿途看到不少登山者在冰川上攀爬。
在意大利赫尔布罗纳峰(Pointe Helbronner) at 11358 ft (3,462 m)下车后，想在山顶餐厅里吃上个午餐，可餐厅巳满座，我们就随意喝杯咖啡吃个小面食了事。然后在就山顶上360度小平台上最近距离和勃朗峰留影。
利用我们二日通票乘坐360度旋转天空缆车下到库马约尔（Courmayeur)。没想到天空缆车站附近什么都没有，且离库马约尔小镇还有点距离。在缆车站旁的咖啡馆喝了咖啡之后我们便原路返回，并在中途停下参观了欧洲最高的植物园。我们知道从意大利赫尔布罗纳峰返回法国的全景缆车在下午4:30关闭，所以我们在4:10时急忙赶往天空缆车站准备返回赫尔布罗纳峰。不巧刚好错过了一班缆车，不得不等下一班。可缆车一到工作人员却告诉说要先做维护，我们只能耐心等待，直到维护完成，缆车重新启用。到达赫尔布罗纳峰后，我们迅速赶到全景缆车站，此时已是4:28。所幸一名工作人员及时看到我们，特地打开了已关闭的门。我们总算坐上最后一班返回法国的全景缆车，否则将不得不返回库马约尔，然后可能需要乘坐巴士通过隧道回到霞慕尼。回程的全景缆车之旅再一次让我们穿越冰川，置身群山之间，很震撼。
回到法国的南针峰后，正好看到两位攀岩者从陡峭的岩壁上慢慢下来，顺手拍了些照片。这二位奥地利来的攀岩者从早上8:30就开始攀爬，只到到下午近6点才完成。稍后通过WhatsApp我们将照片发送给了他们。尽管我们希望在山顶多待些时间多看看，最后一班下山的缆车是下午6:30，我们又是最后一批离开的游客。
回到镇上后，我们在一家印度餐馆享用了美味的晚餐。忙忙碌碌一整天后，吃什么都觉得格外香。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 1- Chamonix 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第一天
July 27, 2024
The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is ......
环绕勃朗峰山脉，。。。
July 27, 2024: The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is a well-known long-distance hiking trail that encircles the Mont Blanc massif. After researching the trails and discussing options with friends who have completed the TMB, we decided that attempting the entire route or even half of it wasn't the best choice for us. Instead, we designed our own version of a more comfortable and flexible TMB, consisting of several day hikes from three different towns, allowing for a completely adaptable schedule. This way, we could decide whether to hike based on weather conditions and how we felt each day.
Our first stop was Chamonix, France, where we stayed for four nights at the Plan B Hotel, conveniently located next to the bus station.
After a delicious breakfast at a local bakery café, we set off for our first hike. We walked to the Planpraz gondola station and took the gondola up to Planpraz. From there, we switched to the Brévent Cable Car, which took us to Le Brévent, at an altitude of 8,285 feet. The view from the summit was absolutely breathtaking, offering us our first glimpse of Mont Blanc peeking out from behind the clouds.
Eager to begin our descent, we enthusiastically started our hike down to Refuge de Bellachat for lunch.
Although the food at the refuge was decent, it was the magnificent view that truly made the experience memorable.
After lunch, we continued our descent towards Les Houches. The downhill trail proved to be tough on our knees, and we found ourselves slowing down significantly after lunch. Despite our initial energy, we quickly realized the second half of the hike was more challenging than anticipated. Other hikers seemed to pass us with ease, swiftly disappearing from sight as we continued our descent.
The descent covered approximately 5,000 feet and 7.5 miles, taking us close to six hours to complete. Though everyone was exhausted by the end, we managed to take a group photo in front of the iconic TMB gate, a testament to our accomplishment.
Afterward, we took the bus back to Chamonix. Too tired to venture far for dinner, we opted for a nearby pizza place adjacent to our hotel. The day was exhausting but rewarding, and we were glad to have made it through our first hike in the Mont Blanc region.
2024年7月27日：环绕勃朗峰山脉，途经法国，意大利和瑞士的环勃朗峰徒步路线（TMB）是一条著名的长途徒步路线，全程总长103英里/165公里。经过对路线的研究，并与完成过TMB的朋友们交流后，我们觉得整个环绕徒步行，甚至连走一半都不适合我们。相反，我们自行安排了一条更加灵活的TMB版本，安营扎寨三个不同的小镇。每个小镇住几天，而不是每天挪一个窝。挑选了从三个不同小镇出发的几条日间徒步路线，充分利用公交，火车和缆车，允许我们根据天气和当天的身体状况自由决定是否进行徒步。
我们的第一站是法国霞慕尼（Chamonix)。我们在这里住四晚，酒店紧邻车站，位置非常便利。
昨晚到达这里，先稍微熟悉一下小镇。今天一早在镇上一家面包咖啡馆享用完美味早餐后，我们开始了第一天的徒步之旅。我们步行来到缆车站，乘坐缆车上到Planpraz，然后换乘Brévent缆车，抵达海拔8285英尺的山顶Le Brévent。山顶的景色绝对令人惊叹，让我们第一次在云层的缝隙中窥见勃朗峰的雄姿。
带着兴奋的心情，我们开始徒步下山。接下来几个小时将是全程下坡，且路很长。大约二个小时左右我们来到Bellachat小山屋。在那里小息并享用了简单的午餐。虽然食物一般，但周围的景色让人心旷神怡。
午餐后，我们继续往莱苏什（Les Houches)镇走。下坡路对我们的膝盖颇具挑战，午餐后我们的步伐明显慢了下来。尽管一开始充满活力，但我们很快意识到下半段的徒步比想象中更困难。其他徒步者似乎轻松超过我们，很快就消失在我们的视线中。
终于走到了Les Houches小镇。这段路程下降了大约5000英尺，我们行走了7.5英里/12公里，花费了将近六个小时才完成。Connie本来膝盖就不好，今天的路对她而言很艰难。尽管每个人都筋疲力尽，但我们还是在标志性的TMB大门框前合影留念。
之后，我们乘坐公交车返回霞慕尼。由于太累无心走远，我们选择了酒店旁边的一家披萨店用餐。今天虽然疲惫却充实，我们为自己在勃朗峰地区的第一次徒步感到自豪。