Yokohama 横浜

Oct. 18, 2023: Shortly after we set sail from Seward, Alaska, on October 8th, the captain announced that the unruly waves made it impossible to head towards the Bering Sea. Opting for an alternate route, we turned southwards. Yet, the Pacific Ocean presented its own challenges, stirring with four impending storms, including a formidable super typhoon. Despite the captain's skillful efforts to steer us clear of the tempests, luck did not favor our voyage. The subsequent ten days were filled with continuous upheaval on the open sea. Nonetheless, we endeavored to make the most of our circumstances, engaging in the ship's various entertainments, delighting in an array of exceptional dishes, and committing to a daily goal of 10,000 steps around the deck.

Although our ship successfully avoided one storm after another, we couldn't head west towards Japan until we finally bypassed the super typhoon. By then, we had veered too far south to reach our first two ports in Japan - Hakodate and Sendai, leaving us no option but to head straight for Tokyo and spend the night there. We arrived at a newly inaugurated Tokyo International Cruise Terminal in the morning today. A dockside ceremony greeted us, complete with live musical performances, marking a celebratory end to our tumultuous journey at sea.

Having previously visited Tokyo, we opted to explore Yokohama this time. Renowned for having Japan's largest Chinatown, it was also the most beautiful one we had ever seen. We indulged in various delicious Chinese dishes there, with the Shanghainese-style pan-fried buns catching our attention the most. A popular shop boasted a long queue, we didn’t want to wait and randomly selected a smaller shop to sample their offerings. Traditional pork and seafood-filled buns, both of which were delicious and comparable to those from Xiao Yang's Fry Dumpling in Shanghai.

Subsequently, we boarded a bus to visit the traditional Japanese garden, Sankeien. Its beauty was breathtaking, and strolling through its serene paths was a delightful experience. After our garden excursion, we planned to enjoy a bowl of Japanese ramen in the city center. However, upon arrival, we found ourselves amidst towering skyscrapers, and an elderly volunteer informed us that the city center lacked notable ramen establishments. Consequently, we hailed a taxi to the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum, albeit requiring some explanation to the driver about our destination.

The Ramen Museum comprises several ramen shops, with the first floor dedicated to exhibits detailing the history of ramen. Descending to the basement, we found ourselves in a meticulously recreated old-style street, housing various shops specializing in different styles of ramen. Admission to the museum was $2.5, with an additional $5 offering a taste of delectable ramen. We tried different styles of ramen from two shops, both of which left a lasting impression with their delicious flavors.

Following our satisfying ramen, we utilized the light rail to return to Tokyo, spending time circling around the area near the Tokyo cruise terminal. By day's end, we had accumulated over 20,000 steps on foot in addition to utilizing public transportation and taxis.

十月十八日: 自十月八日离开阿拉斯加的苏厄德后不久船长就宣布白令海去不了，那里风浪太大，决定南下。可太平洋也不太平，有四个风暴包括一个超级台风等着我们，船长觉得有可能从风暴中穿梭航行。可人算不如天算，我们的船躲过一个接一个风暴却始终无法西行往日本去，直到最终绕过超级台风之后才能西行，但此时船往南已经走得太远，这个行程的第一和第二站函馆和仙台去不成了，只能直奔东京，在东京过夜。

几年前来过东京，这次到东京后，我们就去横浜转转。横浜有日本最大的中华街，也是我们去过的最漂亮的中华街，街上有各色各味的中国美餐，最为吸引的是上海生煎，有个网红店外面排着长队，我们就随便选了一家小店试一下，有原味的，还有绿色是海鲜的，味道很不错，不比上海小杨生煎差。

接着坐公交车去日本传统园林三溪园，很漂亮，在园区内漫步很舒坦。原本想去市中心吃碗日本拉面，到那里后发现那里都是高楼大厦，又碰上志愿者告诉我们那里没什么好的拉面店。我们就叫了出租车去新横浜拉面博物馆，上车后咕噜半天才说明了我们想去哪里。

拉面博物馆实际上有几个拉面店组成，一层有关于拉面历史的记载。地下层建成旧时的小街，好几家拉面馆卖不同特色的拉面。进博物馆要付$2.5 门票，但$5就可以吃上一小碗香喷喷的拉面。我们尝试了二家拉面，味道都相当不错。

饭后就乘坐轻轨回东京，在东京游船码头转了一大圈。一天下来，除了坐轻轨，公交车和出租车外又走了二万多步。

Seward 苏厄德

Oct. 8, 2023: Yesterday was a sea day. In the morning, the ship first cruised around Hubbard Glacier, but the weather wasn't good; it was foggy and not very picturesque. The weather worsened in the afternoon with strong winds and high waves, and even the deck was closed. We spent the time in the gym and attended a concert.

Early this morning, we woke to find the ship docked at Seward, Alaska. We had been here before during the summer tourist season when it was bustling with people and various tourist activities. However, today, it was deserted, with nothing around. After breakfast, we quickly disembarked and walked along the seaside to the town center, but we couldn't find a single coffee shop. The tourist season ended in early October, and most businesses and restaurants were closed. The pedestrians on the streets were all from our ship. It was a bit disappointing, and by the time we returned to the ship, it was already lunchtime. While eating, we casually chatted with a few fellow passengers. It is our ship’s last stop in the United States, and next, we'll be heading towards the Bering Sea with some weather concerns.

十月八号：昨天一整天在海上，早上船先来到Hubbard 冰川转一圈。因为天气不好，雾蒙蒙的不怎么好看。下午天气越来越差，风大，浪大，都不让去甲板了。那就用健身房，演唱会来消磨时间。

今天一早醒来发现船已停靠在阿拉斯加的苏厄德（Seward)。这地方以前我们也来过，当时是夏天，旅游的旺季。人多，有各种各样旅游项目。但今天这里是冷冷清清，什么都没有。早餐后我们赶紧下船，沿着海边往镇中心走了一圈，都没找到一家咖啡馆。十月初旅游季节已过，大部分商家餐厅都关门了。路上行人都是我们船上的游客。有点失望，回到船上已经是午餐的时间。边吃边和几位游客聊天。这是美国最后一站，接下来要为过白令海担忧。

Icy Strait Point

Oct. 6, 2023: Today, the cruise ship docked at Icy Strait Point. This pier was constructed to promote the local tourism. Nearby is a small town called Hoonah, with around eight to nine hundred permanent residents. The entire area, except for the national forest, belongs to the Alaska Native (referred to as Native Americans in other states) Cooperation. The facilities are excellent; after disembarking, you can take a free cable car to the pier center, where there are restaurants, gift shops, and more. However, we did not stay there; instead, we walked along the seaside trail to Hoonah, about two kilometers away.

Initially, we were hesitant about walking there because this area has the highest density of brown bears in the world. We could take a shuttle bus to the town if we chose not to walk. Later, we met a couple walking to the town, so we joined them, which gave us some courage. The scenery along the way was beautiful, and it naturally compelled us to slow down and enjoy the calm and serene seascape.

The town of Hoonah doesn't have any particularly notable tourist attractions. After walking around, we still couldn't forget the desire to see brown bears and appreciate the natural grandeur of the forest here. Outside the town government office, we hired a local indigenous guide who drove us to Tongass National Forest to look for brown bears. He even carried a hunting rifle and led us on foot down to a small stream. Along the way, there were traces of brown bears everywhere, and we even saw the snow-white remnants of roots the bears had just eaten. He thought the bear should not be far away, asking if we wanted to continue. However, we decided to turn back, not knowing how we would react if we encountered a large brown bear. When we returned to the car, the guide told us that few tourists dared to go to that stream to look for brown bears.

Along the way, the guide also got out of the car to mimic the call of a deer, and one time, a female deer ran towards us from the woods. The guide said it was a hunting technique used by the locals. Throughout the journey, he shared a lot about their lives and culture, and we gained a lot of insights and learned many things. After four hours, we saw many traces left by brown bears but did not see any bears.

Upon returning to the pier and returning to the cruise ship, we unexpectedly saw a brown bear in the woods near the bridge, confirming that there were quite a few brown bears in this area.

十月六日

游船今天停靠Icy Strait Point，这码头是为促进当地旅游经济而兴建的。附近有个小镇叫Hoonah，有八，九百居民。整个地区除了国家森林外都归属于阿拉斯加原居民(其他州叫印地安人)集团。兴建的设施不错，下船后就可乘坐免费缆车到码头中心，那里有饭店，礼品商点等。但我们并没有在那里停留，而是沿着海边的步行道漫步走去二公里外的小镇Hoonah。起初还为该不该走去纠结，因为这地区是世界上棕熊密度最高的地方，不走的话可以坐专车去小镇。后来碰到一对夫妇也徒步去小镇，我们就与他们结伴，也算是给我们壮个胆。沿途风景优美，让人不由自主地放慢脚步，欣赏平静安逸的海景。

小镇Hoonah上没有什么特别的旅游景点，转了一圈后，还是念念不忘想去看棕熊，欣赏这里自然大森林。

在镇政府门外找了位当地原住民导游，他开车带我们俩去Tongass 国家森林找棕熊去。他还带着猎枪带我们下车徒步一段下到一小溪，一路上到处都是棕熊留下的痕迹，看到熊刚吃完的菜根，菜根颜色还是雪白的，他说熊应该就在不远，问我们是否还想继续往前，我们觉得还是见好就收，回头吧。如果我们真的碰上大棕熊，不知我们俩会有什么样的反应。回到车上导游告诉我们，少之又少的游客敢下到那个小溪去找棕熊的。

沿途导游还下车学鹿叫，有一次一只母鹿还真的从树林里朝我们奔来。导游说这是他们当地人打猎的技巧。一路上他与我们聊了许多他们的生活和文化，我们受益匪浅，学了不少东西。前前后后开了四个小时，看到了许多棕熊留下的痕迹，但就是没看到熊。

回到码头走回游轮时，却在桥边的树林里看到一个棕熊，也证明了这里的棕熊还真不少。

Ketchikan 凯奇坎

Oct. 5, 2023: Yesterday, we were at sea the entire day under cloudy and foggy weather, unable to see anything. We had breakfast and lunch at the Garden Cafe and had dinner at the main dining room, The Palace. This cruise is our fourth time sailing with NCL in the last twelve months, and it seems like their menu is pretty similar across all their ships. The remaining time was spent reading, visiting the gym, and walking around the ship on the deck; by the end of the day, we had walked over ten thousand steps. In the evening, we went to see a magic show.

Early this morning, the ship arrived at the first stop of this journey, Ketchikan. The ship docked at a small pier, a dedicated pier for NCL and another cruise company near Ketchikan. This time, we opted for an independent excursion rather than joining a tour. After breakfast, we disembarked and took a free shuttle to the city center to catch a lumberjack show. It was our first time watching such a show, and we joined in the cheering and laughter, thoroughly enjoying ourselves. After that, we explored the town. We had visited it six years ago during our first cruise, and it felt good. However, while walking along the river this time, we smelled the stench of dead salmon. The river and its banks were filled with salmon that couldn't make it upstream.

After a considerable walk, we found a seafood restaurant where we ordered a bowl of salmon chowder and a large crab. The taste of the crab was quite good, very fresh, better than what we had bought in a Phoenix store, and the prices seemed to have not increased much compared to six years ago.

We then took the shuttle back to the ship. We initially planned to go to the Chinese restaurant on board for dinner. However, when we arrived at the restaurant just as it opened, we were told it was fully booked, and we would have to wait an hour. We remembered having eaten there twice earlier this year during our cruise to Central America, and the experience was not great. Since we didn't want to wait long, we went to the main dining room instead. The menu there changes every day, so there's always something delicious. After filling ourselves up, we walked on the deck to digest. Surprisingly, we had walked over twenty thousand steps today. The evening's entertainment was a concert by the vocalist Melissa Mc Laughlin, and that's how the day ended.

十月五日

昨天是海上航行，一整天都是在云里雾里，什么都看不见。早中餐去了花园餐厅自助餐，晚餐在主餐厅。这是我们最近十二个月第四次乘坐NCL了，好像他们所有的船菜单都差不多。剩下时间就看看书，去了一下健身房，还有在甲板上绕船走走，一天下来也走了有一万多步。晚上去看了魔术秀。

今天一早船来到这次行程的第一站，凯奇坎（Ketchikan) 。船停靠在离凯奇坎镇不远的小码头, 是NCL和另外一家游船公司专用码头。这次我们自由行，不跟团。早餐后就下船坐免费专车去市中心，赶去看伐木工秀。第一次看类似的秀，跟着起哄搞笑，很开心。然后就在城里转转。我们六年前来过这里，那是第一次乘坐游轮，感觉不错。但这次沿着小河边走时，闻到死三文鱼的臭味，河里河边都是那些未能逆行而上的三文鱼。

转了一大圈后，找了一家海鲜店要了一碗三文鱼浓汤和一个大肉蟹，味道相当不错，很新鲜，比在凤凰城店里买的好吃点，好像价格与六年前相比也没涨多少。

然后就乘坐专车回船。晚餐原打算是去船上的中国饭店，结果掐着点刚开始营业我们就来到饭店门口，居然被告知已客满，要等一个小时。还记得今年初坐这艘船去中美洲时在这家饭店吃过二次，印象并不好，而今天我们只是想再试一下，同时也是想换个口味。既然客满了，不想等那么久，于是又来到主餐厅。那里每天的菜单都不一样，所以总是有好吃的。吃饱喝足先去甲板走走消化一下，再看一下今天走的路，居然有走二万多步。今天晚上的节目是听演唱会，一天就这样结束了。

Embarkation-16 days Pacific Crossing Cruise上船了

Oct. 3, 2023: Yesterday, we left Phoenix and flew to Seattle, where we stayed at the Marriott Hotel near the airport for one night. When we checked in last night, the front desk informed us that there was a cruise shuttle service to the terminal with a price similar to Uber, so we had them arrange it for us. This morning, the shuttle arrived promptly at the hotel, and in about thirty minutes, we arrived at Pier 66. Seeing the NCL Jewel cruise ship there gave us a sense of nostalgia because we had sailed on the NCL Jewel in January when we went to Panama.

The embarkation process was straightforward, with not many people and no need to wait in line. We were on board in no time. Moreover, our stateroom had already been cleaned and was ready for us to move in. Despite having taken several NCL cruises in the past year, this was our smoothest embarkation experience. After settling in, we went to the Garden Cafe on the twelfth deck for lunch. We knew that the buffet there wasn’t the best, but for our first meal, we opted for convenience. After lunch, the sky cleared up, and we disembarked to stroll along the nearby waterfront. The waterfront park felt so familiar because we had spent three months in Seattle in the summer of 2021, leaving countless footprints there.

Our ship departed at 5:30 PM, right on schedule, slowly leaving Seattle behind. It was a rare instance of such great weather, and the view of Seattle from the sea was breathtaking.

In the evening, we dined at the main restaurant downstairs and then went to watch a comedy show. For the next month, this ship will be our home.

十月三日: 昨天离开凤凰城飞到西雅图，在机场附近的万豪酒店住了一晚上。昨晚入住时前台告诉我们有游船码头专车可以来酒店接我们，价格和Uber差了不多，我们直接就让前台订了。今天上午专车准时来到酒店接我们，三十分钟左右便抵达66码头。看到NCL Jewel 游轮停在那里，我们有种亲切感，因为今年一月去巴拿马时就是坐的NCL Jewel 这艘船。

上船手续很简单，人不多不用排队，一会儿就上了船。而且客房已经清理干净，直接可以入住。近一年坐了不少NCL的船，这么顺利还是第一次。安顿好后，我们就上十二层花园餐厅用餐。知道那里的自助餐并不怎么样，第一顿，图个方便。午餐后，天空转晴，我们俩下船沿着附近海边溜达。海边公园是多么熟悉，二零二一年夏天我们在西雅图住了三个月，在海边公园那里留下无数脚印。

我们的船5:30pm 准时启航，慢慢离开西雅图。难得这么好的天气，从海上看西雅图，风景优美。

晚上先去楼下的主餐厅吃晚餐，然后去看Comedy show。

接下来近一个月这艘船就是我们的家了。

Canmore 坎莫尔

9/20: Nine years ago,  we came to Canada to visit the Banff National Park and stayed at Canmore, sitting outside the gates to the Banff National Park. That trip was with our kids, and we had a wonderful time. Today, just two of us revisited the familiar place and felt a strong nostalgia.

Our direct flight to Calgary was comfortable and smooth. After a little over an hour's drive, we arrived at the WorldMark Resort in Canmore. Once we checked in and dropped off our luggage, we went to the city center and had dinner at an Asian restaurant, Quatro Asian Bistro. We got the Crispy Pata, a Filipino dish of deep-fried pig' knuckles served with kimchara salad and homemade spiced vinegar sauce. It was huge and tasted delicious. We couldn't finish it, so we packed the big bones and some meat and brought them back to our hotel. We also had Pad Thai, which was good, but the taste was a little different from the Thai we used to have back in the U.S. Our hotel room had a full kitchen, and we went grocery shopping after dinner.

9/21: After a good night's rest, we made breakfast in our unit. Bacon, eggs, croissants, and coffee are our favorite kinds of breakfast. Then, it was time to head out and explore. We went for a long walk, a ten-mile stroll around Canmore.

We started with walking to the town center area, and there were some beautiful trails along the Bow River. The weather was great, the scenery was beautiful, and our spirits were high. We had a simple lunch in the town center and later had our afternoon coffee break. Eventually, we left the town center, headed towards the hills, strolled through some very nice neighborhoods, and stopped at Quarry Lake Park. This small park boasts picnic tables, a swimming area, walking trails, sightseeing benches, etc. The lake and surrounding area were peaceful, and trees were turning yellow, which was absolutely beautiful. From there, we walked back to our hotel.

9/22: We drove directly to Moraine Lake and Lake Louise nine years ago. Things changed a lot through the years. We had to grab special tickets online for park shuttles to get there this time. Tickets were hard to come by, but luckily, we got tickets for our preferred time slot after many tries. The ample parking lot for the park & ride was almost full when we arrived. We took the shuttle bus to Moraine Lake first, did some hiking/walking, had lunch there, and then took the shuttle bus to Lake Louise. Both attractions were crowded, and although the scenery was beautiful, it didn't quite capture the same feeling as before. Perhaps it's because of the autumn season, with the green of summer gone, the golden hues of fall yet to come. Nonetheless, we walked along the lakesides of both lakes, just like we did nine years ago.

In the evening, back in Canmore, we dined at a restaurant in the town center, and when we looked out the window, the Three Sisters peaks were right in front of us. Since coming to Canmore, we've searched for the perfect photography spot for the Three Sisters peaks. We took some photos near the hotel last night, but they didn't turn out as good as we hoped. After dinner, the two of us went out in pursuit of the perfect "shot."

9/23: We consecutively walked ten and eleven miles in the last two days. Today, we decided not to walk but instead visited a relative in Edmonton. Since it's about a four-hour drive each way, we got up early and headed out.

We passed through heavy fog before reaching Calgary, with very low visibility. It's been a while since we drove in such weather conditions. However, after passing Calgary, it was clear skies all the way. The cornfields, haystacks, and simple, beautiful houses on both sides of the road made it feel like we were back in Iowa, where we used to live, giving us a sense of tranquility and warmth.

Lunch was at a Hong Kong-style restaurant, and it was a delightful meal. We even took the remaining food with us and enjoyed some salt and pepper spare ribs on the way back to Canmore, which served as our dinner.

9/24: We arrived late last night after the long drive, so we planned for a more relaxed day today. Chenggang went hiking solo in the hills behind the hotel, covering 5.7 miles in about two and a half hours. Connie walked to the town center alone and was later joined by Chenggang, where we continued walking along the Bow River. The trees along the river were turning more yellow day by day. Each day, the town's scenery grew increasingly stunning.

Today should be relaxing since we did long walking/hiking in the first two full days, and we drove for long hours yesterday. But somehow, we managed to walk another ten miles by the end of the day. The weather here is so pleasant, and we genuinely enjoy our time.

9/25: We came to Canmore for relaxation, and the air here is fresh, with pleasant autumn scenery all around. However, we can't seem to sit still. The surrounding mountains have countless hiking trails, perfect for outdoor activities. While we've been averaging around ten miles of walking daily, the difficulty level has been relatively low. Today, Chenggang selected a hard trail from AllTrails. He hiked six miles in six hours, covering a steep 1.8-mile ascent of 2,700 feet in elevation, followed by a similarly steep descent. The challenging part of the trail has an average of 2000 ft elevation gain per mile and a similar slope on the way down. There was hardly any flat terrain to rest on along the way. Online reviews stated this trail was meant for mountain goats. He encountered only a few hikers after four hours of hiking. It was one of the most challenging hikes he had attempted. However, the view from the mountaintop was unparalleled, with the Three Sisters peaks right there. It was worth it.

The town center has a river, and there are walking paths on both sides of it, offering picturesque views. Connie didn't want to challenge herself with hard mountain climbing, so she walked to the town center again, strolling along the river path and enjoying the autumn scenery. When she got tired, she found a restaurant on the main street in the city, where she sat down to enjoy her meal and watched tourists passing by. In addition to the riverside path, the town has many other trails where you can walk as far as you like. When Connie finally returned to the hotel, she realized she had walked almost another ten miles, even more mileage than Chenggang.

9/26: Today, we made our way back to Calgary from Canmore, and along the way, the autumn colors became more vibrant, with golden hues everywhere, much more beautiful than when we arrived last week. Before heading to the airport, we visited Prince's Island Park in Calgary, taking a leisurely walk along the park's trails and admiring the golden autumn leaves. We tried Arctic Char and Beef Tartare in the park's restaurant, which was delicious. We arrived at the airport several hours before our flight and headed to the airport lounge to wait. Our one-week Canadian autumn adventure has come to an end, and we had a great time.

九月二十一日：九年前来到加拿大小镇坎莫尔时还拖儿带女，与三家朋友一起度过美好的时光。今天我们俩故地重游，倍感亲切。昨晚来后，去市中心要了个油炸猪脚圈，味道不错。今天一早出去走了一大圈，十英里。好天气，好风景，好心情。

九月二十二日：上次还是开着车直接去班芙二湖 - 梦莲湖和路易斯湖，这次却要上网抢专车票才能去那里。一票难求，但最后阴差阳错还拿到了理想时间段的车票。旅游景点游客众多，景色虽是秀丽，但总觉得没有以前那种感受。也许是因为秋天的缘故，没了夏天的绿，只有秋天的枯黄。我们还是像以前一样沿着湖边走到湖尖。

傍晚回到Canmore，在一家餐厅里用餐，抬头从窗口望出去，三姐妹峰就在眼前。来Canmore这里后，就一直找三姐妹峰的最佳摄影点，昨晚在旅店附近拍了几张照，但总觉得不理想。饭后，两人出去追＂景＂。

九月二十四日：前面二天连着走了十英里和十一英里，昨天不走了，而是去埃德蒙顿看望亲戚。路过卡尔加里前大雾弥漫，能见度很低，好久没在这种气候下开车了。过了卡尔加里后就晴空万里，在去埃德蒙顿的路上，两边的玉米地，草垛，和简洁漂亮的小屋，就好像回到以前曾经居住过的爱荷华州，给人一种宁静而又温暖的感觉。中午在一家港式餐厅里美餐一顿，把剩菜也带上，在赶回Canmore的路上把椒盐排骨消灭了，算是晚餐了。

因为昨天开长途回来的很晚，今准备轻松一下。成刚一人在旅馆边的山上徒步5.7英里，二个半小时。又去镇中心与在那里漫步的佩民会合，继续在弓河边散步。说是放松放松，结果一天下来又走了十英里。现在这里的天气真舒服，我们很享受。

九月二十五日：说是来坎莫尔休闲的，这里空气清新，秋天景色宜人。但我们俩是闲不住的，周围山里有无数的徒步小道，实在是太适合户外活动了。之前虽每天都平均走十英里左右，但难度都不大。今天成刚在AllTrails 上选了条挑战性的徒步小道走走。六个英里走了六小时，上坡2.6英里爬高2700英尺，到山顶后又以同样坡度下山，一路上几乎没有平地可歇脚的。网上评论是这条小路是山羊走岀来了的。走了四个多小时才碰见几位徒步者。他一直想知道自己的极限在哪里，今天这个应该算是他的极限。不过，山顶的景色无与伦比，三姐妹峰近在眼前，也算值得了。

小镇中心有河，沿河二边都有小径，风景如画。佩民不想爬山挑战自己，便一个人走去镇里，沿着河边小径漫步赏秋，走累了在镇中心的步行街上找个饭店坐下边吃边看过往游客。吃饱喝足继续走，除了沿河小径，小镇里还有其它许多小径，想走多远就可以走多远。等回到旅馆发现又是走了近十英里，比成刚走了还多。

九月二十六日：今天打道回府，从Canmore 开车回到卡尔加里。沿途秋意渐浓，遍地金黄，比我们上周来的时候漂亮多了。在去机场之前，先去了卡尔加里的王子岛公园，沿着公园内的小径漫步，欣赏金色的秋叶。在公园餐厅里，品尝北极鲑和鞑靼牛肉，味道相当不错。然后早早来到机场，离登机还有好几个小时，就去了贵宾休息室侯机。一周加拿大秋游就此结束，玩得很开心。

Going Home 回家

June 27-28: We said goodbye to Reykjavik today and flew to New York City. Since both of our kids live in New York City, we made a short stop to visit them for a couple of days. It was our third time coming to New York City in less than a year, so we didn't go anyway or do anything this time; we just stayed at our daughter's apartment and relaxed. The four of us had an excellent BBQ on her building's outdoor terrace under perfect summer weather.

June 29: It's been an incredible journey since we departed from Phoenix on March 30th. Over three months, we traversed seven countries and regions(1) and explored twenty-five captivating cities and towns(2). As we ventured around the globe, our travels encompassed various modes of transportation, including planes, trains, cruise ships, and buses.

Today, we're back in Phoenix, marking the end of an extraordinary adventure. We've experienced countless firsts, encountered diverse cultures, and gained valuable insights, enriching our perspectives.

Reflecting on the past three months, we're grateful for this exploration that pushed our comfort zones. Each new destination brought wonders and challenges, fostering personal growth and cherished memories. The most heartwarming moment was reuniting with our family in Shanghai after three and a half years, filling our hearts with joy and anticipation.

The world is vast, time is limited, but the memories and experiences from this voyage will forever be etched in our hearts. As we return home, we carry a treasure trove of lessons and gratitude for this life-changing adventure.

The list of countries and places visited:

(1) South Korea, China Taiwan, China, United Arab Emirates, Norway, Sweden, and Iceland.

(2) Seoul, Andong, Busan, Gyeongju, Jeonju, Taipei, Shanghai, Zhenjiang, Yangzhou, Ningbo, Shaoxing, Dubai, Oslo, Stockholm, Narvik, Tromso, Harstad, Hammerfest, Alta, Honningsvag, Longyearbyen (Svalbard), Akureyri, Isafjordur, Reykjavik, New York City.

自3月30号离开凤凰城后，历经七个国家和地区（1），停留二十五城镇(2），乘坐飞机、火车、游轮和大巴环绕地球一圈后终于在6月29号又回到凤凰城。在这整整三个月的旅行中，我们经历了无数个我们人生中的第一次，见了很多也学到了很多。深感欣慰能够有机会走出去看看，体验一下不同的文化，挑战一下自已。当然最为高兴的是在三年半后又重返上海与家人团聚。

世界很大，时间有限，且行且珍惜。

(1) 韩国、台湾、中国、阿联酋、挪威、瑞典和冰岛

(2) 首尔、安东、釜山、庆州、全州、台北、上海、镇江、杨州、宁波、绍兴、迪拜（Dubai）、奥斯陆（Oslo）、斯德哥尔摩（Stockholm）、Narvik、Tromso、Harstad 、Hammerfest 、Alta、Honningsvag、Longyearbyen（Svalbard)、阿克雷里（Akureyri）、伊萨菲约杜尔（Isafjordur）、雷克雅未克（Reykjavik）、纽约市 (New York City)

Puffins and Reykjavik 海鸚鵡和雷克雅未克

June 26: After two long guided tours in the past two days, we decided to take it easy and enjoy a more relaxed pace today. We allowed ourselves to sleep in a bit, enjoying the comfort of our accommodations. Upon waking up, we were pleased to find that the weather was fair, with occasional glimpses of sunlight peeking through the clouds, and it got much better later in the day.

Reykjavik is the capital and largest city of Iceland. There are many things to see and do. We visited a few attractions on the first day we arrived and would catch up with the rest today. After a delightful breakfast, we explored the City Hall and the Parliament House. Following our visit, we leisurely strolled around a charming small lake near the City Hall, enjoying the serene surroundings and the tranquil atmosphere. It was a pleasant and laid-back morning, allowing us to unwind and savor the beauty of Reykjavik at our own pace.

Believe it or not, Icelandic hot dog is a popular food in Iceland. We heard about the famous hot dog vendor that boasted of serving the best hot dogs in town, and true to the claim, there were long queues of eager customers lining up in front of the stall. Connie reminisced that just two years ago, no one was in line at that spot, and she even had photographic evidence to back it up. The pandemic has indeed brought about significant changes in tourism and visitor patterns. Despite the allure of the famous vendor, we didn't want to wait in a long line for a hot dog and opted for a hot dog from a nearby small shop. The hot dog was undeniably tasty, yet we couldn't help but feel it fell short of justifying its five-dollar price tag. Nevertheless, the experience allowed us to savor a popular Icelandic food. These little moments of exploration often leave the most lasting impressions during our travels.

Apart from hot dogs, Icelandic fish and chips are also a must-try. So, we went to another famous shop across the street from our apartment and shared one fish and chips. Over the past few days in Iceland, we've had fish and chips multiple times, and this place served a tasty version, one of the best. After paying, they even gave us two pieces of chocolate cookies as a bonus.

The street murals in Reykjavik, Iceland, elevated the city's lively artistic vibe. As we roamed the streets, we spontaneously snapped photos of these mesmerizing artworks. They provided a striking contrast to the meticulously regulated house paint in the HOA-governed neighborhoods where we reside.

One thing we hadn't done in Iceland so far was see puffins. Connie brought back many beautiful photos of adorable puffins two years ago, and this time, Chenggang hoped to see them in person. We did not get a chance to go on the puffin tour when our cruise ship stopped at Isafjordur a few days ago. There is a small island outside Reykjavik known for puffin watching, but the weather had been terrible in the past few days, and the boats couldn't go out. Finally, the sky cleared up, and the wind subsided this afternoon, and Chenggang quickly booked the last available spot.

After a delightful fifteen-minute ride, the boat arrived at the protected island near the city. Passengers could not disembark on the island due to its conservation status. Instead, everybody remained on the boat, eagerly observing the diverse birds inhabiting the area, including the adorable and agile puffins. With a long lens, Chenggang captured their charm and grace in photographs. He took snapshots of the puffins in flight, expertly clutching fish in their mouths, and some captivating close-ups of the puffins gracefully gliding across the sea. The encounter with these charming creatures undoubtedly became a highlight of the day, filling him with joy and leaving him with cherished memories of this enchanting island adventure.

We opted for a delicious dinner from the supermarket, enjoying roasted pork belly and traditional Icelandic lamb soup. The lamb soup was a delightful surprise, as it was incredibly flavorful without any gamey taste, leaving us wishing we had tried it more often during our stay.

After a satisfying meal, we took advantage of the rare good weather and went for a leisurely stroll along the picturesque seaside. Along the way, we visited and revisited a few more attractions. It was the perfect way to end the day and our long journey, immersing ourselves in the serene surroundings and soaking in the tranquil atmosphere, making the most of our time and creating lasting memories of our incredible time in Iceland.

It's time to go home.

6/26: 今天没什么大安排，睡了个懒觉。起床后，发现今天天气还可以，不能说是大晴天，但太阳时常会露面一会儿。早餐后，去市政府楼和议会大楼那里看看，环绕着市政府楼边的小湖走了一圈。

都说来冰岛要尝一下冰岛热狗，号称是这里最好热狗的网红小贩的亭子前排着长队，佩民说二年前亭子前一个人都没有，有照片为证，都是疫情惹的祸。我们今天就不凑这个热闹，而是在旁边一家小店里要了个热狗。味道还不错，但怎么也不值五美金。

除了热狗，冰岛的炸鱼块和薯条也是必须要尝的。接着我们来到公寓对面的另一网红店俩人分享了一份炸鱼块和薯条。其实来冰岛这几天炸鱼块和薯条已经吃了好几次，今天的这家网红店味道的确不错，付款后还给了二块巧克力饼干。

回房休息一会儿后，天气转晴，风也小下来了。来冰岛后，还有一事没做成-看海鸚鵡。佩民二年前带回许多漂亮可爱海鹦鹉的照片，这次来冰岛就一直希望也能亲眼目睹。Reykjavik 外面有一个小岛是看海鹦鹉的好地方，前几天的天气实在太糟糕，船都不能出海，今天下午总算是云开雾散，赶紧订票抢了最后一个名额。

乘坐小船十五分钟后来到城市不远的小岛边，小岛受保护的，不能上岛，只能远远停在海上观望，岛上各种鸟不少，海鹦鹉很小，飞得又快，既是用了长镜头，由于水平有限，今天的照片不能和两年前的照片相比的，差一段距离，但也算碰上冰岛最可爱的动物了。

晚饭是超市里买的烤五花肉和冰岛传统羊肉汤。羊肉汤一点羊肉腥都没有，很好喝，早知道就多该尝试几次。难得的好天气，饭后去海边散步，再补上几个景点。

Golden Circle 黄金圈游

June 25: We joined the Golden Circle tour from a local tour company booked through Viator. While glaciers shaped yesterday's sights, today's destinations were all related to volcanic eruptions and geothermal activity. Unfortunately, with constant rain and strong winds, today's weather wasn't favorable. The significant advantage of joining a guided tour is that we leave the driving to someone else, especially on long journeys and bad weather days.

Like yesterday's tour, we gathered at bus stop #12, where a large bus came to pick us up. Arriving at a parking lot near a gas station in the city, the passengers on the bus either remained on the same bus or switched to a different one, depending on their itineraries. Fortunately, in both cases, the bus that picked us up was the right one for our tour, so we did not need to change buses.

Our first destination was the stunning Thingvellir National Park, where we walked through a narrow valley leading to the birthplace of the Icelandic parliament, known as the Althing. The Althing is the world's oldest parliament, dating back over a thousand years. In those ancient times, the Icelanders gathered here annually to establish their self-governing regulations, resisting being ruled by the Danish crown, which was later abolished by decree. As we strolled through the valley, we also had the incredible opportunity to witness the ongoing geological marvel of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. This geological boundary separates the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates, gradually drifting apart at a rate of two centimeters per year. The cliffs flanking either side of the valley, with different elevations, are tangible evidence of this real-time separation of the tectonic plates. The park's beauty was captivating, with its majestic mountains, serene lakes, majestic waterfalls, and rich historical significance. It is undoubtedly a must-visit destination in Iceland, offering an unforgettable experience for all who venture there. The disadvantage of joining a guided tour was that we only had limited time at each sight, which was not enough for the beautiful Thingvellir National Park.

Arriving at the Strokkur Geyser, besides the geyser viewing, this was also our lunch spot. We decided to have lunch first at the café, which was bustling with fellow travelers. Once we were fueled up, we eagerly awaited the geyser's eruption. Strokkur did not disappoint; it put on a mesmerizing display, sending boiling water columns shooting several meters high into the air every 5 to 10 minutes. We even fortunately had witnessed a double eruption, to our delight. The sight was truly impressive, captivating everyone present. However, despite its awe-inspiring nature, Strokkur couldn't quite match the grandeur and size of the geysers found in Yellowstone National Park. Nevertheless, experiencing the natural spectacle of Strokkur was undoubtedly one of the day's highlights, leaving us in awe of the mighty forces at play in this geothermal wonderland.

Continuing our journey, we proceeded to another renowned site, the magnificent Gullfoss waterfall. This natural wonder is a two-tiered waterfall boasting a powerful flow that gracefully descends into a canyon, creating a truly breathtaking spectacle. To fully appreciate its beauty, we ventured down a flight of stairs to catch a closer glimpse of the lower tier, but in doing so, we couldn't escape the refreshing mist from the cascading water. The experience was invigorating. On the other hand, the path to view the upper tier was much easier to navigate, offering a flat and accessible vantage point to witness the waterfall's grandeur. Gullfoss left us in awe of nature's prowess and provided another unforgettable moment in this extraordinary Icelandic adventure.

Our final destination on the Golden Circle route for the day was the Kerid Crater, a volcanic crater lake. Unfortunately, the weather was unfavorable, rainy and windy. However, we still took the opportunity to walk around the rim, marveling at the impressive geological formation and the serene lake at its center. Despite being unable to walk down to the bottom of the crater and explore the crater fully, we appreciated the unique beauty of Kerid and were content with the experience.

After returning from the Golden Circle tour, we rested a little at the apartment, had a quick dinner, and went out again. Tonight, we attended a famous Icelandic stand-up comedy show called "How to Become an Icelander in 60 Minutes" at the HARPA Concert Hall. It was a hilarious and light-hearted way to end this challenging day.

6/25: 今天跟着当地的旅游团走了冰岛另一条热门线路-黄金圈。昨天的景色都是由冰川造成的，那么今天所去的地方都是与火山爆发和地热有关的。天公不作美,今天又是整天刮风下雨。跟团游的最大好处是把开车的事交给他人了，尤其是当路途遥远且天气糟糕的时候。

首先来到辛格维利尔国家公园 (Thingvellir National Park), 走进通往冰岛议会诞生地的狭谷。一千多年前，不愿意听从挪威国王统治，在那里冰岛人开始一年一度集会，制定自治法规。走在狭谷中也目睹正在进行中的大西洋中部裂谷的地理过程，欧亚板块和北美板块正在以每年二厘米速度分离，狭谷两边的高低不同悬崖峭𤩹位于不同的板块上，是板块分离的见证。公园很漂亮，有山，有水，有瀑布，有历史，是一个应该慢游的地方。

第二个景点是盖歇尔地热区(Geysir)，其中最为活跃的史托克喷泉（Strokkur)每隔5～10分钟就喷发一道沸腾的水柱，高达几十米，场面颇为壮观。但比我们黄石公园的差远了。

接下来我们来到的是另一个著名的景点-黄金瀑布(Gullfoss）。这是一个双层的瀑布，水流非常急，最终流入峡谷，极其壮观。看下层的瀑布需要往下走一段台阶，同时也会被飞流直下的水气淋湿。去看上面那层瀑布的路就很平坦。

今天黄金圈线路的最后一个景点是火山口湖（Kerid Crater）。可以沿着火山口走一圈再走到火山口下面的湖边，但今天风雨交加，我们俩只是沿着火山口走了一圈，没下到火山底。

黄金圈回来后，回公寓稍微休息一下，吃个晚饭又外出了。今晚去哈帕音乐厅看著名的冰岛脱口秀-怎么在60分钟内学会做冰岛人，这脱口秀已上演了十年了。捧腹大笑轻松一下，给这辛苦的一天有个完美的结局。

South Iceland 冰岛南部

Today, we joined the South Iceland tour through Viator to explore the southern coast, visiting glaciers, waterfalls, and black sand beaches. Iceland's ever-changing weather had taught us not to be fooled by the clear blue skies in the morning, so we brought our raincoats and warm jackets whenever we ventured out. We walked to the Bus Stop #12 in the morning. A pickup bus collected the eagerly waiting tourists at the bus stop, transporting us to a gas station on the city's outskirts. Over there, tourists went to their designated destination buses. Fortunately, the pickup bus was also our tour bus, so we didn’t have to get off the bus. During the journey, the bus made three stops for breakfast and restroom breaks, which felt somewhat redundant.

First, we arrived at Skogafoss, a majestic waterfall with cascading waters, often creating rainbows when the sunlight hits the spray. The land below was relatively flat, allowing visitors to approach the water curtain of the waterfall, but the mist required raincoats to stay dry. Climbing the 465 steps to the top of the waterfall was a bit tiring, but the effort was rewarded with a breathtaking view of the unique landscape of Iceland's southern coast, especially when the weather was great. According to Connie, there were only a few tourists, and taking photos was a breeze two years ago when she visited here. However, today, it was a long line of people winding up the stairs.

Leaving the waterfall, we reached the black sand beach. Connie still vividly remembered being almost blown away by the wind during their last visit two years ago. Today's weather at the black sand beach was even worse with the fierce winds and pouring rain. Our tour guide repeatedly emphasized that we should not touch the seawater, which could be extremely dangerous. Braving the elements, we managed to walk along the beach and take a few photos at the foot of the mountains before returning to the bus, completely soaked despite our raincoats.

Our third destination of the day was the magnificent Solheimajokull Glacier. Hiking on the glacier required the expertise of a specialized guide, which our tour did not include. We admired the breathtaking views from the glacier's edge before proceeding to our next destination.

Our final stop for the day was the renowned Seljalandsfoss, one of Iceland's most famous waterfalls. This tall waterfall created a mesmerizing curtain of water. What made it truly special was the pathway that allowed visitors to walk behind the waterfall, providing a unique and thrilling perspective. However, venturing through the waterfall meant being enveloped in a refreshing mist, impossible to stay dry. Although we were soaked, the experience of being so close to this natural wonder was genuinely unforgettable.

As the bus returned to the city, the surroundings were shrouded in dense fog, significantly reducing visibility on a particular stretch of the road. Fortunately, we were not responsible for driving, allowing us to relax and even nap on the bus. Our journey had begun at eight in the morning and stretched until seven in the evening.

For dinner, we prepared a delicious tomato mushroom egg drop soup, bacon stir-fried cabbage, roasted chicken wings, and some grilled pork belly bought from the supermarket. As always, homemade dishes tasted wonderful.

6/24：大清早公寓门口的彩虹街没游客非常安静。今天参加当地旅游团去南岸看冰川，瀑布和黑沙滩。都说冰岛的天气变化莫测，千万不可让早晨看见的蓝天白云给蒙骗了，每天出门必备雨衣，羽绒服。今天上午出门时天气还算帮忙，我们先来到斯可加瀑布（Skogafoss），这个瀑布非常高，水冲击地面溅起的水花在阳光下常常能看到彩虹。下面的陆地很平坦，游客能走到瀑布的水帘附近，但一定要有雨衣。沿阶梯可以走到瀑布的顶端，465级台阶走上去虽有点累但值得，在上面能俯瞰冰岛南岸特有的地貌。佩民二年前来这里时游客稀少，照片随便拍，而今天爬阶梯都是弯弯扭扭一条长龙。

离开瀑布来到了黑沙滩，佩民对二年前来黑沙滩时人都要被吹走的经历记忆非常深刻。而今天这里的天气更糟糕，来到海边时狂风暴雨，导游一再强调绝对不能碰海水，会有去无回的。顶着大风大雨在沙滩上走一走来到山脚下拍几张照片，雨衣根本挡不住雨水，全身湿漉漉的回到大巴。

今天第三个景点是冰川（Solheimajokull Glacier），徒步上冰川必须有专门的向导带领，我们只是走到冰川边上饱饱眼福之后就赶往下一个景点。

塞里雅兰瀑布(Seljalandsfoss)，也许是冰岛最著名的瀑布之一。瀑布很高，像水帘洞，最大特点是游客可以沿着水帘后面的通道走到瀑布的后面，从里看外感觉很不一样。穿越瀑布时被水气溅湿是绝对的。反正今天一整天是湿了又湿。

大巴往返城市里时，又是大雾笼罩，有一段路的能见度相当低，幸好我们不用自己开车，还能在车上打瞌睡。早上八点上的大巴晚上七点才回到住宿。番茄蘑菇蛋花汤，培根炒白菜，加上烤鸡翅膀和超市买的烤五花肉，自己做的菜味道总是好吃。

Disembarked at Reykjavik 下船了

June 23: Our 12-day cruise to Norway and Iceland, exploring the Arctic Circle, came to an end. At 6 in the morning, our ship arrived promptly at the Reykjavík harbor. Before disembarking, we had our last breakfast at the Garden Cafe. Throughout the cruise, we had breakfast in the buffet restaurant every morning - mainly because of the variety of choices and the chance to chat with other travelers. However, this leg of the cruise was full, making it sometimes challenging to find a table. We would occasionally share a table with fellow passengers. 

At 8:30 am, we disembarked and took the complimentary shuttle to the city center. From there, we went directly to the apartment we had booked for our stay. Since check-in was not until three in the afternoon, we stored our luggage in a small storage room downstairs and headed to the nearby bookstore to have a cup of coffee and plan our upcoming days.

After having lunch at a Thai restaurant, we started exploring the city. Our first stop was Reykjavík's iconic landmark—the Hallgrímskirkja Church, also known as the "Rocket" Church. While entry to the church was free, accessing the observation tower required a ticket. The interior of the church was relatively simple, but its distinctive architecture was truly captivating.

Next, we checked off the fishbone sculpture by the waterfront, but the strong winds and waves prompted us to move on quickly. We then visited the Harpa Concert Hall and had the opportunity to attend a free concert performed by one of Iceland's most talented young pianists. This enchanting experience lasted for more than an hour.

After the concert, we checked into our apartment. The location of the apartment we booked was excellent, right on the colorful Rainbow Street in the heart of the city. From there, we could easily walk to the "Rocket" Church. The one-bedroom apartment was spacious and comfortable, complete with a kitchen. Since our apartment was on the top floor, from our room, we had a fantastic view of Rainbow Street leading towards the "Rocket" Church. We could even catch glimpses of the sea.

Once settled in, we went to the nearby supermarket to buy groceries. In the evening, we cooked our dinner and enjoyed a relaxing meal in the comfort of our home away from home.

6/23：12天的挪威，冰岛游轮游结束了。早上六点我们的船就已准时停靠在冰岛首都Reykjavík 船码头。下船前我们先去自助餐厅吃上最后一顿早餐。这次游轮上我们每天都在自助餐厅用早餐，一是选择性多一点，二是有机会与其他游客聊聊天。但这一程游轮游客特别多，常常要花些时间才能找到位子，有时实在不行只能与其他游客拼桌。

八点半我们下船，乘坐城市里提供的免费游船码头到市中心的专车，然后直接去了我们租订的公寓。因为入住要到下午三点，我们先把行李寄放在底层小行李房里，然后来到旁边的书店里喝杯咖啡，安排一下接下来几天的行程。

中午在泰国店吃过午餐后开始采点。首先来到Reykjavík 标志性建筑-哈尔格杯姆斯大教堂，也称“火箭＂大教堂。进教堂是免费的，但上观景钟楼则需要买票。教堂里面除了巨型管风琴外，其它比较简单，倒是教堂的外观更吸引人。

接着来到海边打卡鱼骨雕塑。风大浪大不能多呆，便来到哈帕音乐厅，正好碰上免费的音乐会，由冰岛最有才华的年轻钢琴家为大家演奏，整整一个多小时。

听完音乐会后，入住公寓。这次订的公寓位置相当好，就在市中心的彩虹街上，沿着街就可以直接走到“火箭＂大教堂。一房一厅的民宿舒适宽敞，带厨房。我们的房间在顶楼，从房间里就可以看到不远处的教堂，还能看到海。

Isafjordur, Iceland 伊萨菲约杜尔

June 22: This morning, the cruise ship tendered at the charming town of Isafjordur on the edge of Iceland's Westfjords. Since we did not sign up for any ship-organized tours, we got off the ship as soon as possible and went to the tourist office asking for the local puffin excursion info. Unfortunately, the excursion schedule did not fit our ship's departure time because the small island for the puffin sightseeing was too far. So we decided to explore the town by ourselves.

There was this very nice hiking trail on the edge of the city, and it was going up the hill. The abundant purple lupines, not native to Iceland, were in full bloom along the trail and all over the mountain. They were initially introduced in the early 20th century as a way to combat soil erosion and improve soil fertility. However, they have since become invasive in some areas of the country, particularly in Iceland's southern and western regions. While lupines can add a beautiful splash of color to the landscape, they remind us of the consequence of human introduction to the ecosystem. We enjoyed hiking up the hill in the morning.

Under the clear, sunny skies of Isafjordur, the view from the mountain's summit was nothing short of spectacular. We were greeted by a breathtaking panoramic vista that stretched out before us as we reached the top. Below, the picturesque town of Isafjordur is nestled amidst the surrounding fjords, its colorful buildings standing out against the dramatic backdrop of the soaring hills. The vibrant hues of the hills painted a mesmerizing contrast to the deep blue waters of the fjord, creating a scene that was nothing short of awe-inspiring. It was a moment that etched the beauty of Isafjordur and its natural surroundings deep into our memories.

Later in the afternoon, we strolled through the town center. Despite being a small town with just a few narrow streets for its population of fewer than three thousand people, the city center was well laid out with bus stops, bicycle lanes, and pedestrian paths. The houses facing the narrow bay were beautifully painted, creating a picturesque scene.

As evening approached, the ship set sail from Isafjordur, heading towards Iceland's capital, Reykjavík, which would also be our final destination for the cruise. It has been a while since we left home; it's time to return.

6/22: 今天游船停靠冰岛西峡湾边上的小城 - Isafjordur，我们没有参加任何组团活动。上午爬山看了一下满山的鲁冰花，下午再去城中心转了一圈。只有三千人不到的小城中心其实就几条小马路，但有公交和自行车／徒步专道，面朝狭湾的小房都油漆的漂漂亮亮。

船傍晚就起航离开这里，前往冰岛首都Reykjavík ，那里也将是我们游船的终点站。离家已经很久了，该回家了。

Akureyri, Iceland 阿克雷里

June 21: We bid farewell to the Svalbard islands two days ago, leaving the Arctic behind as we said goodbye to Norway. After two days at sea, our ship arrived in Akureyri, a city in northern Iceland and the second-largest city in the country.

For Connie, this was a return visit to a familiar place as she spent almost three weeks circling the entire island two years ago. It was a new country for Chenggang, so in the morning, he joined a shore excursion organized by the ship to visit the famous Godafoss waterfall, one of the most popular tourist attractions.

Connie skipped the tour since she had already seen the place. Instead, she took a local bus, free of charge for everyone, to visit the museums and the Botanical Garden by herself.

After a quick 45-minute stop at the waterfall, the excursion tour bus came to the botanical garden. Instead of returning to the ship with the tour bus, Chenggang chose to stay in the park, where he enjoyed a cup of coffee and delicious sweets with Connie at the garden's cafe. We shared the table with a couple from Washington State, our fellow cruise passengers, and had a delightful chat and exchanged travel stories for over an hour.

After some rest on the ship, we got off the ship again in the afternoon and walked over five kilometers to explore the old town. Akureyri's Old Town is a charming historic district near the city center. It is characterized by its well-preserved wooden buildings, colorful houses, and cobblestone streets, giving visitors a glimpse into the city's past. The old seafront houses, once situated on the coast, have now recessed away from the water due to coastal land reclamation. The changes have been quite significant over the past one or two centuries. Posts with old pictures illustrated the changes over the years installed at several locations in front of the historic buildings. We thought those were informative and interesting. Walking through this area, visitors can admire the unique architecture and learn about the city's rich history.

The city center exudes a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, with a mix of boutique shops, galleries, cafes, and restaurants lining its narrow streets. It is a delightful place to explore, offering a blend of culture, tradition, and modernity.

After dinner, the ship slowly departed from Akureyri. We then attended a singing and dancing show. As the show concluded, the ship's crew and officers graced the stage to greet the passengers. When the "washing, washing" girl, armed with her sanitizing bottle, took to the stage, the audience erupted in laughter and heartfelt applause, appreciating her dedicated and meticulous efforts to ensure our health and safety. Undoubtedly, she was the ship's most famous and funniest crew member.

The improved weather conditions led to clear skies, and the sea was relatively calm, with no significant roughness. Whales frequently appeared in the area, so we spent some time on our balcony, hoping for a sighting.

Deep in the night, the radiant sun clung to the horizon, defying its descent, creating the illusion that the Earth stood still. It was a breathtaking sight. To our amazement, numerous whales frolicked gracefully in the sea bathed in golden sunlight, and we beheld the spectacle of whales spouting what seemed like "fire." We eagerly observed and captured photographs from our balcony for almost two awe-inspiring hours until half past one in the morning before eventually retiring to sleep.

6/21: 离开北极的Svalbard岛屿，也和挪威说再见。经过二天的海上航行，我们的船来到冰岛北部的Akureyri市。因为佩民二年前来过此地，对她来说算是故地重游。早晨成刚一人就跟团去了著名的众神瀑布，瀑布那里游客特别多，待了四十五分钟大巴就匆匆离开来到植物园。 成刚正好与独自一人自由行也来到植物园的佩民会合。

回船稍微休息之后，下午我们再次下船，走了五公里多，主要看看老城区。以前的海景房因为填海造地现在都远离海岸，看来一，二百年来变化还是很大的。总的感觉是城市虽小，博物馆，花园，老城区，新市区都不大，但环境优美。城市还有免费的环城公交，为游客提供方便。

晚餐后船慢慢离开Akureyri市，天气逐渐变晴，浪也不大。听说鲸鱼常常出没这个海域，整个晚上我们时而在房间的阳台上碰碰运气，希望能有收获。

半夜时分，金灿灿的太阳停留在海平面上不会消失，就像地球停止转动一样，漂亮极了。更为惊喜的是在金色阳光下，无数鲸鱼游戏在海上，我们目睹了鲸鱼喷"火”的壮观景象。二人在阳台上忙活了二个小时到早上一点半才睡下。

Longyearbyen, Svalbard (Lat. 78.22 deg) 北纬78.22度

June 18: The day we had eagerly anticipated had finally arrived. After visiting the Antarctic, we had always yearned to explore the Arctic as well. Longyearbyen, located on the Svalbard islands, was the closest inhabited town to the North Pole and a place frequented by polar bears. Legends and tales of mysteries shrouded this remote town, where polar bears were said to outnumber human residents. Stories circulated about the need to carry rifles when going out, elderly or terminally ill people being required to leave to avoid dying on the island, and childbirths necessitating a return to the mainland due to limited medical facilities. The image of Longyearbyen in our minds was of a sparsely populated Arctic town covered in pristine snow, and visiting there filled us with a sense of adventure.

Beyond the polar bears, Svalbard was also known for its walrus sightings. Although our booked ship excursion to observe walruses had been canceled, we searched the internet for local alternatives. Unfortunately, most tours were fully booked, leaving us to wait and see what opportunities awaited upon our arrival.

The ship docked at nine in the morning, and we hurriedly got off. Fortuitously, we came across a 16-person tourist minivan with three available seats, and we quickly hopped on. The driver, also our guide, took us on a tour around the town and its surroundings. We learned that coal mining was a significant industry besides tourism in Longyearbyen, as the coal deposits here were of exceptional purity. Due to the heavy fog that day, the scenic beauty of the valleys remained obscured during our journey up the mountains.

Our guide also showed us the church and a dog yard where huskies were kept. Yet, the highlight of our trip was the Global Seed Vault, where seeds of major crops from all over the world were stored. This facility was a safeguard in emergencies or global disasters and had already been used twice. Before this visit, we had never heard of such an international seed bank, and we now recognized the importance of such a repository, especially after the COVID-19 pandemic.

After the three-hour tour, our overall impression was that Longyearbyen resembled an antiquated mining town with hardly a trace of polar bears, at least in the area we visited. It lacked the allure and charm of the quaint fishing villages in Northern Norway, but perhaps visiting during winter would offer a different perspective.

After lunch on the ship, we prepared to explore the town center. As we walked out of the ship's dock, we noticed many tourists waiting to board the yachts next to us. These tourists had booked their excursions from local agencies months in advance, and naturally, all spots were taken. However, we didn't lose hope and patiently waited for last-minute opportunities. To our surprise, we managed to secure a place on one of the yachts. The excursion took us to the other side of the bay to observe the glaciers. There, we had the pleasure of sighting numerous walruses and seabirds. This yacht excursion was quite similar to the one we had booked on the ship, yet the price of our two tickets was lower than what one person had paid on the ship. As the saying goes, when one door closes, another one opens. The four-hour glacier and walrus excursion was genuinely worthwhile.

Today, we consider ourselves incredibly fortunate to have the chance to participate in two local excursions. Our only regret was not being able to see the polar bears, but perhaps we would have to venture to even more northern regions on a future expedition.

6/18: 北纬78.22度(Longyearbyen)

梦想已久的一天终于到来了。自从去过南极后，一直想到北极转转。在Svalbard 岛屿上的Longyearbyen 是离北极最近的可居住的小镇，北极熊常常出没的地方。据说在岛上的北极熊比常住居民还多，各种传说给这个遥远的小镇披上了神秘的面纱。什么外出必须带长枪， 老年人或有不治之症的人必须离开，不能死在岛上。因为医疗条件差，生育也必须回到大陆去。想像中的Longyearbyen 镇是人烟稀少白雪覆盖的北极小镇，去那里有一种探险的感觉。

除了北极熊之外，Svalbard岛屿也是海象出没的地方。自从游轮把我们订的出海看海象游取消后，我们开始在网上寻找当地的旅游项目，但是绝大多数项目都满客了，我们只能到达之后见机行事。

早晨九点船靠码头，我们匆匆下船，正好碰上一辆16人旅游面包车还有三个空位，我们赶紧上车。司机兼导游带着我们在小镇周围山上山下兜了一圈。除了旅游业外，煤矿是他们主要工业，这里煤矿石是非常纯的，导游带我们看了几个煤矿。因为今天雾很大，上山后看不到山谷的美景。又带我们去看了教堂和养哈士奇狗的地方。对我们来说，最有意思的是全球种子保存库，世界各地都将一些主要农作物的种子存放在那里。在紧急情况下或全球大灾难时，可以取回存放在那里的种子，据说已用过2次。之前从来没听说过有这个全球粮食种子库的事，现在想想还真应该有这样的保存库。三个小时一圈下来总的感觉是Longyearbyen就像一个陈旧的矿镇，北极熊的影子都没有。小镇远没有北挪威小渔村那种美丽魅力，也许冬天来这里会有不同感受。

回船吃午餐后，准备去镇中心看看。走出船码头后看到不少游客正在等待上旁边的游艇，他们都是几个月前就订好的，当然船已订满了。但是我们不放弃，希望有人没来，我们耐心地等待着，最后还真的让我们上船了。游艇带着我们去海湾对面的冰川。在那里，看到了不少海象和海雀。这个游艇的行程与我们在船上订的很相似，但我们俩人的船票却比我们在船上订的最后被取消的一个人的价钱还便宜，正是常说一扇门关了说不定另一扇门就开了。这四个小时冰川和海象游是非常值得。

今天我们算是非常幸运的，能够有机会参与二个当地的旅游项目。这次唯一的遗憾是没看到北极熊，也许下次再来要坐探险船去更北的地方。

North Cape (Lat. 71.15 deg) and at Sea 北纬71.15度

June 16: We woke up to find our ship had docked in the small town of Honningsvåg, the northernmost town on the Norwegian mainland. Although the town is small, it is a popular stop for many ships touring the Arctic Circle due to its proximity to the renowned North Cape. Honningsvåg also offered a unique treat – the chance to savor fresh Arctic king crab.

After breakfast, we got off the ship and headed to the tourist information center in the town to gather some insights before exploring. We purchased tickets for a local tour bus to take us to the North Cape at 11:15 am. It seemed that most visitors to this town had the same destination in mind.

Still having a few hours to spare, we explored the city, strolled along the seaside, and visited the city park. The quaint streets showcased typical Northern European charm with a church, a lighthouse, colorful fishing boats, and more, creating a picturesque Nordic fishing village setting.

The journey to North Cape wasn't too far, about forty minutes driving distance, revealing the distinct Arctic Circle landscape features along the way – vast and barren, occasionally spotting a few reindeer. Upon arriving at North Cape, we were surprised that the area was bustling with tourists. The parking lot was brimming with big tour buses, RVs, and private cars. The visitor center offered amenities like a restaurant, souvenir shops, and a cinema that continuously screens short films about the Arctic. Although an entrance fee was required to access the center, which our excursion tickets did include, no one checked at the entrance, relying solely on the visitors' honesty. We watched the short film and then proceeded to the park to capture memorable moments at several viewpoints, marking our visit to this iconic destination.

Returning to the town in the afternoon, we rushed to the restaurant for the king crab, which the staff at the tourist information center recommended. To our disappointment, the restaurant was closed. Back at the information center, the staff suggested another option, a Thai restaurant instead. On the way there, we ran into a helpful local who called a restaurant upon learning about our quest for king crab but found out they had run out of crab due to rough weather conditions at sea over the past few days. She then recommended the restaurant where she planned to have dinner that night, the one we visited earlier. We informed her that the restaurant was closed, but she didn't believe it and insisted on taking us there directly. It turned out that the restaurant just opened for business when we arrived, and we were so happy. Unfortunately, the restaurant informed us they had not received any king crab delivery from the Fishman for the last couple of days due to the bad weather. It was a stroke of bad luck, and we figured all the restaurants in town would run into the same problem, so we had to abandon the idea of having a king crab. We thanked the hospitality local for her help and returned to the ship for dinner.

After a satisfying dinner, we decided to explore a location known for its abundance of birds perched on the rocky shores, hoping to capture some beautiful bird pictures. On our way to the bird-watching spot, we passed by the Thai restaurant the tourist office had recommended. Curious, we peered through the window and saw the patrons inside happily relishing the king crab. The sight filled us with excitement, and we couldn't resist entering the restaurant to inquire about a table. The happiness was short-lived. Sadly, the restaurant had just sold out the last delectable crab dish. It seemed luck was not on our side today, and once again, we missed the opportunity to savor the king crab.

On the way back to the port by bus from the North Cape, we spotted fish-drying sheds on the roadside, capturing a quintessential scene of a Norwegian fishing village - drying fish bodies and fish heads. We were curious about them. Since it was near the cruise port, we decided to walk over there and closely examine them. The sheds were massive, a lot bigger than we expected. The fish bodies and heads were separated and dried by cold air and wind on wooden racks. We later learned that since the Viking age, Norwegians have dried fish outdoors in the fresh ocean wind to make stockfish. Now, this kind of dried fish is exported to all over the world.

As the white nights approached, the reindeer herds on the slopes by the bay slowly drifted off to sleep after satisfying their appetites. Our ship left the Norwegian mainland, continuing its journey deeper into the Arctic region.

June 17: The next destination, Longyearbyen, Svalbard, was a bit far, and we wouldn't arrive there until tomorrow. Since we boarded the ship, every day brought us to a new port, keeping us busy from morning till night. Finally, we had a full day at sea, a chance to sleep in, relax, enjoy food and drinks, and catch up on writing our travelogue for the past few days.

Before embarking on our Arctic journey, we assumed this cruise might be less crowded, given the remote location of the embarkation point in northern Norway. However, to our surprise, our assumptions were completely off the mark. Never before had we seen such a bustling cruise ship; finding a seat for breakfast turned into a delightful challenge. One noticeable presence was the significant number of passengers with Chinese heritage, just like us. Around 30% of the cruisers shared our ancestry, and most were in the same age group. It felt like we had stumbled upon a vibrant community of Shanghainese travelers, and the familiar sounds of the Shanghai dialect surrounded us. Over a few days cruising, we conversed with fellow Chinese descent passengers and exchanged stories of our travel experiences. It was fascinating to learn that everyone on board came from different parts of the world, each with compelling tales of adventure and exploration.

In the evening, we dined at another specialty restaurant - the French restaurant. The ambiance was delightful, and the dishes' presentation and taste were a step up from the main dining area. Since we liked the white wine Shades of Blue Riesling very much from our earlier onboard dining experience, we ordered another bottle tonight, intending to savor it over two occasions. After the sumptuous dinner, we watched a magic show.

Due to the chilly weather, we spent little time walking around the ship after boarding. Occasionally, we would step onto the balcony of our room to gaze at the sea, which was calm with occasional fog, and sometimes spot whales gracefully gliding through the waters and seabirds soaring through the skies as our travel companions, adding a touch of wonder and excitement to our Arctic voyage.

6/16: - 北纬71.15度（North Cape)。

早晨醒来船已停靠在挪威大陆最北的小镇Honningsvaag。镇很小，但许多走北极圈线路的船都会到此停留，因为从这个小镇可以去到著名的北角（North Cape）。小镇还有个特色是可以品尝到新鲜的北极帝王蟹。

早餐后我们先下船去镇上旅游信息中心了解一下情况，然后就在小镇上逛了一圈。教堂，灯塔，色彩鲜艳的捕鱼船等等，非常典型的一个北欧小渔村。

我们订了票随当地旅游大巴去North Cape. 来到这个小镇的游客估计绝大部分都会去North Cape。不是太远，开车四十几分钟就到了。沿途是北极圈特有的地貌特征，一片荒凉，偶尔能看到几只驯鹿。没想到的是North Cape 已经完全被游客占领了，停车场停满了大巴，RV和私车。游客中心有饭店，卖纪念品的小商店，还有一个影院不停地放映一个十几分钟关于北极的短片。进游客中心需要买门票，但并没人查票，完全靠自觉。我们先看短片，然后就是在几个景点拍照留念算是到此一游。

再坐大巴回到小镇时已是下午，我们直奔早上旅游信息中心工作人员推荐的吃帝王蟹的饭店而去，饭店没开，非常失望。又回到信息中心，工作人员又推荐了一家泰国店。在去泰国店的路上碰巧遇到一位热心的当地人，听说我们想吃帝王蟹，就打电话问一家店，回答说今天没有蟹。她又推荐一家她今晚在那里聚餐的饭店，我们说没开门，她不信，就直接把我们带到饭店去了。就二，三十分钟的样子，饭店倒的确是刚刚开始营业了，但老板说今天没有帝王蟹，因为前二天的风浪太大，渔民们没办法出海，也就没货送给饭店。那泰国店也不用去了，断了帝王蟹的念头，改去海边拍鸟。拍完照回船的路上走过这家泰国饭店，看见里面有人在吃蟹，赶紧进去却又被告知刚卖完了。真是阴错阳差，我们就是与北极帝王蟹没缘，乖乖回船吃饭去，但还是要感谢那位热心当地人的相助。

在回码头的大巴上，看到路边的晒鱼棚，饭后特意找到晒鱼棚，留下挪威小渔村一景：干晒鱼体，鱼头。

随着白夜来临，在海湾边山坡上的驯鹿群在＂酒足饭饱＂后渐渐入睡。我们的船也离开挪威大陆，继续深入北极。

6/17: 海上行

下一站有点远，明天才能到达。自上船以来，每天一个新港口，从早到晚都在忙，总算有一整天在海上航行，可以睡个懒觉，吃吃喝喝放松一下。同时也有时间补写一下几天的游记。

这次北极游开始之前，还以为我们的游轮可能会比较空，因为上船的地点是在挪威北部一个小地方。实在是太偏远，而且是去北极，一个不太寻常的地方。结果我们是大错特错了。从来没见过游轮上有这么多游客，吃早餐常常连位子都找不到。并且这次游轮上有很多我们的同胞，大概估计一下可能占30%，基本上以我们这个年龄段为主，而其中上海同乡非常之多，有时吃个饭前后左右听到的都是乡音。在船上待了几天，慢慢地开始与一些同胞同乡们聊上几句，大家来自世界各地，旅行经历一个比一个丰富。

今天晚上去了另一家特色餐厅-法国餐厅。环境不错，菜的摆盘和口感的确比大堂餐厅稍好一些。这次又要了一瓶白葡萄酒，还是和上次一样准备分二次享用。美酒佳肴之后再看一场魔术表演。

因为天比较冷，上船后我们几乎没怎么在船上绕船走。有时候会在房间的阳台上看看海，浪虽不大，但常有雾，偶尔有鲸鱼，小鸟伴陪。

Alta (Lat. 69.97 deg) 北纬69.97度

June 15: Our ship docked at Alta Harbor at 7 o'clock. Alta is known for its stunning natural beauty, with majestic mountains, fjords, and the surrounding Arctic wilderness.

After breakfast, we set out to hike the nearby mountain. The journey wasn't too long, about 4 to 5 kilometers from the pier to the top of the hill. The final few hundred meters involved climbing on large rocks, which proved challenging for some of the older passengers from the ship. As we descended the mountain, we had a delightful encounter with a group of fifth-grade students from a local school on an outdoor activity. They eagerly chatted with us, asked numerous questions, and even recommended the local shopping center to visit. They taught us some Norwegian phrases along the way, and their enthusiasm, curiosity, and confidence were fascinating. We were even more surprised to come across a group of kindergarten children climbing up the mountain, led by teachers at the front and back – something unimaginable in the United States. It's no wonder Norwegians love outdoor activities and have a spirit of adventure instilled in them from a very young age.

After our mountain adventure, we visited the Northern Lights Cathedral in the city center. The church was newly constructed. The church's architecture was quite remarkable. The building exterior was titanium sheets with a large spiral and a belfry inspired by the natural beauty of the Northern Lights. It required an entrance fee to see the church's interior, which we gladly paid. Instead of traditional sculptures of Jesus or religious figures, there was a stunning 4.3-meter-tall bronze sculpture of a man, adding a modern and artistic touch to the sacred space. Beneath the bell tower, a gold ladder, seemingly an artist's imaginative creation, led upwards, perhaps symbolizing a path to heaven. Our visit to the Northern Lights Cathedral left us in awe of its innovative design, harmonizing the majesty of nature with contemporary artistry, making it a truly captivating and unique experience, different from other churches in Europe.

Later, we took a bus to the Alta Museum, the World Heritage Rock Art Center, outside the city. It is dedicated to showcasing and preserving the unique heritage of Alta Rock Art, a collection of ancient rock carvings that date back thousands of years. The Alta Rock Art consists of more than 6,000 rock carvings on large panels spread across the landscape, depicting various scenes from prehistoric life, including hunting, fishing, rituals, and daily activities of the region's early inhabitants. The rock painting park was well-maintained, ensuring the priceless paintings were protected and accessible to visitors. We wandered along the path and deeply appreciated the skill and artistry of the ancient people who created these remarkable carvings.

Most of the museum-goers were from our cruise, and many had taken the bus to the museum like us. As we were ready to return to the ship, the bus station outside the museum was bustling with eager cruisers to return to their vessel. Only a few of us had purchased tickets in advance through our phones. When the first bus arrived, the driver was meticulous, ensuring everyone bought a ticket before boarding and only the front door was opened. It took quite a few minutes for only a handful of passengers to get on. The line was long, and people started wondering how long it would take to get on the bus. A little while later, the second bus came, stopping right in front of us. The second bus driver opened all the doors and gestured for everyone to board without tickets. We all rushed in, and the bus departed promptly. Looking back, we noticed the first bus was still slowly loading the passengers.

We decided to try a different restaurant with Brazilian cuisine in the evening. We did remember to bring our saved wine out. Unfortunately, the mediocre food didn't meet our expectations, leaving us somewhat disappointed.

6/15 - 北纬69.97度（Alta)

早上七点船来到Alta港。下船后先去爬山，路程不算长，加上从码头到山脚的一段大概有4，5公里，最后几百米是在大石头上爬上去的，有些年纪大的人就有点困难。在我们下山时，来自当地学校野外活动的五年级学生与我们聊天，问了我们好多问题，还推荐我们去当地购物中心看看。一路上还教我们不少挪威话，他们很热情，好奇和自信，很有意思。最为惊奇的是还碰到一群幼儿园小朋友也在往山上爬，前面有老师领队，后面有老师跟着，这在美国是不可思议的事情。难怪挪威人喜欢野外活动，勇敢的冒险精神从小就开始培养。

爬完山后就去市中心的教堂。这个教堂建筑很别致。进教堂要收门票，但这教堂和其它的不一样，没有耶稣塑像而换成了艺术人像。

坐公交车去城外的博物馆，那里有2～7千年前的岩石画。岩石画公园修建得很好，把这些无价之宝的岩石画保护起来又便于游客观赏。博物馆里绝大数参观者都是从我们游轮来的，很多人都是坐公交车来的。回码头的车站挤满了游客，第一辆车来了，像我们这样手机上已买票的少之又少。司机做事认真，每人必须买票才能上车，而且只开前门，几分钟也没上几个人。过一会儿来了第二辆车，正好停在我们面前，那司机将所有车门都打开，挥挥手不用买票，大家一涌而上，车就开走了。再回头看第一辆车还在慢慢地检票呢。

晚上试了另一家特色餐厅-巴西餐厅，不敢恭维，口味一般，有点失望。

Hammerfest (Lat. 70.66 deg.) 北纬70.66度

June 14: Our ship docked at Hammerfest in the morning. The town is located on the island of Kvaløya, just off the coast of the Norwegian Sea, with a population of more than 10,000. Today, this town is an important hub for the oil and gas industry in the region.

Eager to explore the city, we again purchased a 24-hour transportation card on our phones before stepping off the ship. With two bus stations close to the port, we opted for the less crowded one. With our transportation card, boarding the bus was a breeze. Little did we anticipate that the next stop would be bustling with passengers from our cruise ship. People were confused about paying for the bus tickets and blocked the bus door. To our surprise, the driver kindly gestured for everyone to get on quickly and generously, waiving the ticket fares. This thoughtful act spared them all the inconvenience of purchasing tickets on the spot. With a cheerful atmosphere, the passengers happily made their way to the vibrant city center. We couldn't help but appreciate the driver's kindness in waiving the ticket fares, making our travel experience more enjoyable.

When we arrived in the city center, we first took a photo in front of the Hammerfest city's landmark. Then, we visited the Hammerfest church. We notice the churches in Northern Norway have a similar architectural touch, a long triangle style integrated with the tower with the main entrance or the main buildings. Interestingly, this design differs from what we might find in other parts of Europe, where bell towers or clock towers are often placed on top of the main building. The traditional design in Northern Norway seems to emphasize the verticality of the structure, with the tower integrated into the overall shape of the church and surviving better under extreme cold and heavy snow weather conditions.

We climbed the hill near the city center after visiting the Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society. Although not too high, it had a steep slope, making it challenging. After reaching the hilltop, we enjoyed the panoramic view of the city and took some photos. We noticed a village inhabited by the Sami people, but it turned out to be a tourist attraction rather than a permanent settlement. An elderly Sami gentleman engaged us in conversation and invited us into a small tent with a warm fire. They no longer reside there permanently but utilize the area during the summer to tend to their reindeer and organize tourist activities. The reindeer in this region belong to the Sami people.

As the wind picked up and it started getting cold on the mountaintop, we decided to take the bus back to the city. We met a Norwegian couple also waiting for the bus. They mentioned the bus should arrive in just two minutes, but after waiting for over twenty minutes, no bus was in sight. During this time, we chatted with the couple and learned they were from southern Norway, visiting their daughter's sheep farm on a small island in the north. As the bus didn't show up, they kindly showed us a shortcut down the mountain and even accompanied us all the way to the city center, displaying remarkable warm hospitality. We later discovered that the buses in town took a one-hour break during lunchtime.

We returned to the ship for a quick lunch. Then we visited a small fishing village outside the city and took the bus there. However, upon arrival, we found that the village only had a small dock and a few fishing boats, with no other facilities or a single person. The weather was chilly, and the wind was fierce. The next bus back to the city wouldn't come for another forty minutes. So we had to seek shelter and warmth at the bus station, a concrete shed. It was chilly, and we were a little scared. We even had doubts about whether the bus would arrive on time since it was such a remote area that we might miss the ship's departure time.

The bus did come, and we were back in the city finally. We headed to the monument, which marks the northernmost point of the Struve Geodetic Arc, a part of the UNESCO site. These measurement points were established to determine the shape and size of the Earth, making them significant in terms of world cultural heritage.

With the ship's late departure, we explored a local historical site near the port after enjoying our dinner. This site was a collection of temporary housing structures from the post-World War II era, thoughtfully relocated for preservation. The city had faced significant destruction during the war, leaving only one building standing, which made the post-war architecture even more historically valuable.

Despite its small size, Hammerfest taught us many valuable lessons and left a lasting impression on our journey.

6/14: 北纬70.66度（Hammerfest)

我们外出尽量利用当地公交车，下船前先在手机上直接买了当地2 4小时的交通卡。在码头附近有二个车站，我们去了前面车站，车站上没几个人，我们有交通卡，车来就直接上车。没想到下一站站满了从游轮下来的乘客，大家全要在车上买票，有点乱哄哄。 司机看着这么多要买票的，也许出于好心，也许是怕这么多人票买下来，这车半小时也开不了，懒得收这个钱，就挥手让大家赶快上车，不用买票了，满满的一车人高高兴兴地到市中心全部下去。

我们先在Hammerfest市的市标前照个相，然后走去教堂打卡，接着去爬山，山不高但坡度挺陡的，弯弯曲曲还挺费劲的。在山顶上看看城市全景再照个相。看到附近有个挪威土族人（Sami)的村庄，实际上也是为游客而建的，他们正等着下一波游客团队的到来，我们凑热闹上去和一位老人聊聊，他让我们进到烧着火的小帐篷里看看。其实他们已不住这里，夏天会来这里放养驯鹿和搞些旅游活动，冬天回到较为暖和的山上。这里驯鹿都属于Sami人的。

山上风大，走一会儿有点冷，想坐车回船，看到一对挪威夫妇也在等车，说是二分钟公交车就会来的，结果等了二十几分钟车也没来。等车期间与他们聊天，他们来自挪威南方，去在北方小岛女儿家帮看外孙，女儿家在岛上有个养羊场。公交车不见踪影，我们准备走下山回市区，他们给我们指点了一条近路，怕我们走错就索性陪我们一路下山到市中心，真是一对热心人。我们走回船码头后才发现中午公交车休息一小时。

午餐后心血来潮要去城外的小渔村，还是坐公交车去。但来到那里一看，小渔村就只有个小的船码头和几条渔船，没任何其它设施， 更没一个人。当时天很冷且风非常大，下一班回市里的公交车要等四十分钟才来，我们只能待在车站棚避风保暖。

总算回到市区，接着来到斯特鲁维测地弧最北的一个测量点的纪念碑，这些测量点是为了确立地球的参考椭球体，直接测量地球大小的，被列为世界文化遗产。船要到半夜才离开，晚饭后又去了码头边的当地历史点，他们把岛上二战后建的临时住房搬了过来。二战期间，德军把整个城市都毁了，只有一幢楼幸存下来，所以二战后建筑算是历史建筑了。

这座城虽小，我们学了不少东西。

Harstad (Lat. 68.80 deg) 北纬68.80度

Harstad (Lat. 68.80 deg.) 北纬68.80度

June 13: Our ship arrived in Harstad, a mid-sized city in northern Norway with over 20,000 people. We decided to explore the town independently rather than join the ship's organized excursion.

The local bus transportation in Northern Norway is operated mainly by a single company, Fylkestrafikk, and the ticket fare is based on whether you are traveling within or between zones. The single ticket costs about 37 NKR within a zone; typically, traveling within a city or town falls within a single zone. Since we were familiar with the Norwegian bus system from the previous bus ride, we acquired the bus tickets through an app before leaving the ship.

Our first destination was the Harstad History Museum and Historical Farm, where we had the opportunity to delve into rural life from the past. At the history museum, we learned that the German forces occupied northern Norway during World War II, destroying many buildings. They also constructed a camp to detain Soviet prisoners of war at the location right next to the museum. We strolled through a park built on the former camp's site. Afterward, we continued our exploration and visited the northernmost medieval stone church.

Then, we boarded the bus back to the city center for a brief tour. It was a day filled with historical and cultural experiences as we immersed ourselves in the charm of Harstad.

Besides a few complimentary restaurants on the ship, several specialty restaurants on board require an additional fee to dine in. A meal for two in one of these restaurants would cost more than a hundred US dollars. Our cruise package included two specialty dining meals for two people at any specialty restaurant. To our surprise, the cruise line offered us two more specialty dining meals upon boarding and even gifted us a bottle of wine.

We decided to dine at the Italian restaurant on board for our evening meal and opted for a bottle of white wine, Shade of Blue, a Riesling from Germany. Since neither of us was a drinker, this semi-sweet wine with tropical fruit notes and a crisp citrus finish suits us well. We enjoyed our dinner, savoring the delectable food and the delightful wine. There was no way we would be able to finish the entire bottle. The server suggested saving the remaining wine for us, which could be used for our next visit to any restaurant on board. It was a smart trick we had just learned, allowing us to extend the enjoyment of that excellent Riesling. It was a fantastic dining experience with delicious cuisine and fine wine.

6/13: 北纬68.80度（Harstad)

第一站Harstad 实际上离Tromso不远，有二万多人口，按照挪威的标准，在北挪威也算是个中，大城市了。我们先参观了他们历史博物馆和历史农场，在那里可以体验一下当时的乡村生活。 从历史馆知道，二战期间德军占领整个北挪威，摧毁大多数建筑，在那里还建造关押苏军战俘的营地，我们在旧址上建的公园里走了一圈。然后去了最北的中世纪石头教堂。

下午在城中心走马观花之后就回船了。除了几个免费的餐厅之外，游轮上还有几个需要收费的特色餐厅，二人一顿饭大约需要一，二百美金。我们这次订的船票里包括了二顿特色餐厅用餐。上船后，发现他们又额外送给我们二顿特色用餐，还给了一瓶葡萄酒。今天晚餐去了特色餐厅吃意大利菜，在意大利餐厅里要了一瓶白葡萄酒，喝了一半，服务员说可以帮我们留着，我们下次去其它任何餐厅时再继续喝，这是我们刚学的小巧门。

Tromso (Lat. 69.65 deg) 北纬69.65度

June 11: We made our breakfast in our rented unit. It was a delightful breakfast with bacon, eggs, and a cup of aroma coffee. We were grateful for the convenience of having a kitchen because breakfast cafes in many European cities are hard to come by in the early morning, and they tend to open later. Having the kitchen allowed us to avoid the hassle of searching for food on the streets during those early hours.

After enjoying our breakfast, we proceeded to the local tourist information center to gather valuable insights about the area. We purchased a 24-hour tourist card combining the bus pass and tickets for two prominent attractions: the Arctic Cathedral and Fjellheisen (Cable Car). Excited about our plans, we embarked on our exploration and first headed to Telegrafbukta Beach Park, situated at the southern tip of Tromsoya Island.

At the beach park, we took a leisurely stroll along the seaside, captivated by the soothing sound of waves gently crashing against the shore. The sight of snow-capped mountains across the water added a touch of majesty to the landscape. As we walked, we felt the refreshing sea breeze on our faces, and from time to time, we sat on the benches, fully immersing ourselves in the tranquil ambiance surrounding us.

Our next plan was to take the cable car to the mountaintop, where we expected a stunning view of Tromso. However, we were disheartened to learn that the cable car was closed due to strong winds when we arrived by bus. Disappointed but undeterred, we visited the next attraction, the Arctic Cathedral, which had a charming exterior and interior. Unfortunately, the weather worsened with strong winds and drizzling rain, so we returned to the hotel for a break. As the bad weather continued, our concern grew about the potential impact on the planned midnight hiking tour tonight. The rain might interfere with the tour's enjoyment and safety, making us unsure what to expect.

Fortunately, the rain stopped, and the sun emerged in the evening. At 8 pm, a tour guide picked up Chenggang in Tromso city center and drove him and other participants over the Snadnessunbrua bridge to a larger island, Kvaloya. The first encounter was several reindeer roaming along the roads. The driver let us get out of the car to take some pictures.

Due to the recent rains, the trail was murky and slippery. Undeterred by the challenging conditions, the group embarked on a four-hour nighttime hike up the mountain. Chenggang had a couple of slips and falls during the descent, but it didn't dampen his spirits. Witnessing the sun hanging high in the midnight sky was a breathtaking and surreal sight that left everyone in awe.

Chenggang returned to the hotel around 1 am the next day, feeling exhausted and exhilarated at the same time. The entire experience had been invigorating, and despite the late hour, he felt a surge of energy, almost tempted to continue the journey on foot. The memories of that extraordinary hike will stay with him for a long time, making it a truly unforgettable adventure.

June 12: Our day began with a visit to the tourist information center, where we inquired about yesterday's cable car closure. Fortunately, the staff understood and was kind enough to refund our ticket for the portion of the cable car ride. With that sorted, we proceeded to our next destination, the Polaris Museum. We had the delightful opportunity at the museum to witness a dolphin feeding show. It was a captivating experience, observing these intelligent and playful creatures up close.

The new cruise terminal at the city center was well-equipped, with convenient amenities such as hotels, restaurants, and buses, but it only accommodated small ships with fewer than a thousand passengers. Unfortunately, for our NCL Star cruise, we had to embark from the old terminal, which was outdated and lacking in facilities. In the afternoon, we took a bus to the old cruise terminal located 4 kilometers away from the city center. The absence of passenger lounges was particularly noticeable, and security checks were conducted in large tents, which wasn't as efficient or comfortable. We waited about an hour to pass through the security check and check-in.

Besides this terminal, Norway's public infrastructure was excellent, even in remote small towns, with good roads, public transport, and reliable mobile communication and networks. We haven't used cash so far, and our T-Mobile phones have had no connectivity or data usage issues.

Today marks the beginning of our 12-day cruise to Norway and Iceland, exploring the Arctic Circle. Since visiting Antarctica, we've desired to experience the Arctic. During our trip to Alaska, we didn't dare to drive to the Arctic Circle for a photo, but this time, we can immerse ourselves in the Arctic Circle, fulfilling a dream come true.

After boarding the NCL Star, we dined at the buffet restaurant on the 12th floor before settling into our rooms. With a few hours left before departure, we got off the ship. We explored a nearby botanical garden due to its unique geographical location, featuring flora distinct from the southern regions.

At 8 pm, our ship departed from the cruise terminal, setting the stage for our exciting journey. Over the next few days, we will be venturing farther north, delving deeper into the captivating wonders of the Arctic region. The most remarkable aspect of this northern expedition is the phenomenon of the midnight sun. The sun remains a constant companion, gracing us with its presence throughout the day and night, as we imagined. As we continue our voyage, we eagerly anticipate the breathtaking landscapes and unique adventures that lie ahead in this extraordinary journey under the enchanting glow of the midnight sun.

6/11: 北纬69.65度（Tromso)

今天的早餐自己做，房间自带厨房很方便，鸡蛋，培根，咖啡等等。欧洲许多城市早晨吃早餐的地方不多，店都开得比较晚，对早起的人来说有点不方便。有厨房的话就不用满街找吃的了。

早上先去当地的旅游信息中心了解一下情况，买了包括24小时的公交车和二个主要景点的联票之后便开始踩点。首先坐车来到海边的公园，沿着海边慢慢走，听着浪声，看着对面的雪山，偶尔在椅子上坐坐，真是非常享受。接着我们准备坐缆车🚡，据说在山顶上俯瞰整个Tromso很漂亮。兴冲冲坐车来到山脚下，却被告知今天风太大，缆车不开。那一刻我们别提有多失望了，坐缆车可是我们买的联票中的一个项目。没办法只能去下一个景点-教堂，教堂的里外都比较别致。我们到教堂时外面刮起大风，也开始下毛毛雨，看完教堂后赶着回酒店。担心的是今晚还有个重要项目－北极半夜徒步爬山。

很幸运，傍晚开始雨停日出。晚八点由导游带着我们几位开车到另外一个小岛上去，来回路上还碰到不少驯鹿。在山上走了四个小时，回到酒店已第二天早晨一点了。整个过程很过瘾，有一种说不出的感觉，既是时过半夜，人还是很兴奋，想继续走下去。

6/12: 北纬69.65度（Tromso)

早晨先去旅游信息中心询问一下昨天没坐上缆车的事，他们就把缆车的票钱退还给我们。然后就去看了一下Polaris 博物馆，在那里观看喂海豚表演。

午后我们坐着公交车去了4公里外的游船老码头。他们在市中心造了个新的码头，周围环境很好，酒店，饭店，大巴应有尽有，很方便，但新码头只能停靠一千人以下的小船。而老码头设施陈旧，周围什么都没有，连乘客楼都没有，安检都是在大帐篷里做的。但话也说回来，挪威的其它公共设施还是很好的，既便是偏僻的小城里，公路，公交车，手机通信和网络都很不错。至今我们还没用过现金，我们的T-Mobile手机也畅通无阻，不用加流量。

今天将开始我们12天的挪威，冰岛游轮行，去北极圈转转。自从去过南极后，一直想到北极看看。上次去阿拉斯加时没敢开车去北极圈打卡，这次能深入北极圈也算是梦想成真。

上船后，我们先去十二层自助餐厅用餐，饭吃完房间也可以入住了。离开船还有几个小时，把行李放下后，我们又下船去码头附近的植物小园看看，因为这里的地理位置关系，植物园里树木花草之类的东西是不能与南方比的。

晚上八点，我们的NCL Star游轮慢慢地离开了船码头，以后的十几天里我们的行程会越来越往北，太阳会总是陪伴着我们，黑夜不再存在，有点不可思议。

Arctic Circle Train&Narvik 北极圈列车

June 9: The Arctic Circle Train connects Stockholm in Sweden and Narvik in Norway; the journey takes about twenty hours. The most convenient option for the Arctic Circle Train would have been a direct overnight train from Stockholm to Narvik by VY Nattag 94. However, for some reason, VY Nattag 94 was not running during the last few days. So we had to take the two-segment trains, Nattag 92 and 96, instead.

We boarded our train, VY Natag 92, which connects Stockholm in Sweden and Boden in Sweden, in Stockholm last night. This morning, we were roused from our sleep by the gentle swaying of the train. This train appeared to lack an automatic balancing mechanism, causing it to tilt slightly with every turn, resulting in swaying. Despite this, we managed to get some decent rest, possibly due to our weariness from the past few days' activities. It is a scenic train journey that takes travelers along the Gulf of Bothnia in the Baltic Sea and through dense forests and pristine lakes to reach Boden, Sweden. After the twelve-hour journey, we arrived in Boden a little after ten in the morning. There, we switched to another train, VY Nattag 96, traveling seven and a half hours to Narvik, Norway, the second segment of the Arctic Circle Train.

After boarding the VY Nattag 96 train in Boden, the landscape on both sides of the railway began to change into Arctic Circle scenery. The towering pine trees and green grass disappeared, replaced by slender white birch trees and brown tundra. In the last couple of hours, as it was winding through the northern parts of Sweden and Norway near the Arctic Circle, the train ride offered stunning views of the Arctic wilderness, including snow-capped mountains, pristine lakes, and unique flora and fauna.

This 250-mile railway is also known as the Iron Ore Line since it was built to transport iron ore from mines in Sweden to the ice-free port of Narvik for export. The railroad was once an engineering marvel for high-quality construction and design. The downhill train from the mines to Narvik only used 20% of the electricity it generated and used the rest to return the empty train to the mines. The transportation of iron ore occurred virtually cost-free, as the system ingeniously recycled its generated energy, eliminating the need to pay for additional fuel and electricity.

We arrived in Narvik at 5:30 pm, checked into the hotel, dropped off our luggage, and immediately ventured out to find something to eat. In the meantime, we tried to find the bus station and buy the bus tickets for the next day. We searched online to determine how to purchase the bus tickets and got some confusing information. We downloaded two apps from the bus company, one for live schedule and one for ticket purchase. There should be two buses to Tromso tomorrow based on the bus schedule. Using the app, we could purchase the general tickets only, not reserved for seats, and the tickets would expire after six hours. We felt the bus company just didn't want anyone to buy the tickets in advance. The bus station was conveniently located outside the largest shopping mall in the town, so we walked to the mall and the bus station. There was no ticket office, and only 3 ~ 4 bus schedules were posted on the board, but none showed Tromso as the destination. We got confused and frustrated. At this point, there was nothing we could do about it.

We continued our search for a good restaurant and settled in a Fish restaurant next to the fish market hall. After we had ordered the food, Chenggang realized that today's bus from Tromso would arrive in Narvik soon. Why didn't we ask the bus driver about tomorrow's schedule? Chenggang quickly left for the bus terminal, which was only a few minutes' walking distance. When he got to the station, the bus just arrived. He talked to the driver and confirmed the bus for Tromso would leave Narvik at the time based on the online schedule. What a relief!

Our food was ready just a few minutes after Chenggang returned from the bus terminal. Then the waiter came to our table to apologize for giving us the wrong fish dish. We didn't want to waste the food, so we told him it was okay and that we would take the wrong plate. These were all freshly made fish dishes anyway, and they tasted delicious. Ultimately, they only charged us 50% of the total bill due to one of the dishes was wrong. We were very delighted with their food and service.

After dinner, we took a leisurely stroll along the bay, enjoying the picturesque Arctic midnight sun.

June 10: - Latitude 68.45 degree (Narvik): Today, we started our day with breakfast at the hotel. The small town of Narvik does not have many hotel options, and we picked one based on the review and location. Contrary to the not-so-good reputation of Quality Inn's breakfast in the United States, we were pleasantly surprised by the complimentary breakfast here, which was abundant and far better than the expensive $20+ breakfasts we had at hotels in Sweden a few days ago. Moreover, knowing that most guests were heading on long journeys, the hotel offered a great deal – lunch-to-go for just $7. We couldn't resist this opportunity and made two delicious sandwiches to enjoy later during our travels. After the meal, we set out for a leisurely walk around the town, soaking in the serene life of this small Nordic city—the charm of the surroundings and the peaceful atmosphere added to the joy of our morning.

In the afternoon, just a little past 1 pm, we boarded a double-decker bus bound for Tromso, Norway, the largest city within the Arctic Circle. The bus driver recalled his conversation with Chenggang last night and warmly welcomed us. Surprisingly, only a few passengers were on the bus, allowing us to secure seats in the front row of the upper deck, providing us with an astonishing 180-degree panoramic view of the surroundings. The 4.5-hour journey passed swiftly, and the scenery was breathtaking, making this bus ride the most beautiful and comfortable one we've experienced. After taking buses in foreign countries a few times, we realized that bus travel should be seriously considered more often in future trips. The convenience, comfort, and opportunity to appreciate the incredible sights along the way are unparalleled, and it has certainly added a delightful dimension to our travel experiences.

Upon our arrival in Tromso, we wasted no time and headed straight to a nearby supermarket to stock up on groceries, as our hotel here was equipped with a kitchen. While in Sweden and Norway, we noticed a lack of vegetables, especially the Asian leafy greens we're accustomed to having. Therefore, we picked up some fresh green salads, meat, and fruits to create a satisfying dinner for tonight.

After enjoying our meal, we decided to stroll around the neighborhood to get acquainted with the area and its surroundings, preparing for a deeper exploration tomorrow.

6/9: 从瑞典的斯德哥尔摩到挪威的Narvik铁路线也称为北极圈列车线，行程近二十小时。最方便的是坐直达过夜火车。但不知什么原因，直达车这几天都没开，我们就只能订需要转一次的火车。

昨晚从斯德哥尔摩上的火车。大概火车没有自动平衡机制，每次转弯，火车就有点倾斜，觉得有点摇晃，不过睡得还可以，可能是因为前几天玩得有点累了。十二个小时很快就过去了，上午十点多就到达瑞典的Boden, 在那里换乘另一列火车前往挪威的Narvik, 大约需要七个半小时。

在Boden上车后，铁路两边开始变成北极圈的地貌，高大的松树和绿色的野草消失了，替代的是细小的白桦树和棕色的苔原。在最后一，二个小时，路边的风景非常优美。这段二百五十英里的铁路线也被称为铁矿石线，曾经是工程技术上的奇迹。

下午五点半到达挪威的Narvik, 入住旅馆放下行李，马上出去找吃的。晚饭后漫步在海湾边，享受着风景如画的北极白夜。

6/10: 北纬68.45度（Narvik)

今天在旅馆用早餐。小镇旅馆选择不多，我们看评分和旅馆位置选了一家。虽然品质客栈(quality inn)的早餐在美国名声不是很好，但这里的免费早餐却大不相同，比前几天在瑞典的酒店花了每人2 0几美金的早餐还要丰富。另外这个旅馆还很细心，也许知道大多客人都是要赶长途的，花七美金就可以随便打包午餐，我们自己做了二个三明治留着中午吃。饭后就在城里走走，感受一下宁静北欧小城生活。

下午一点多乘坐双层大巴去Tromso, 挪威，是北极圈内最大的城市。大巴上乘客不多，我们坐在二层第一排，有180度全景，一路上风景不错，是我们坐过大巴中最为漂亮舒服的一次，4个半小时巴士行程一会儿就过去了。我们已在外国坐过几次巴士，每次感觉都不错，看来今后旅行应该多考虑坐巴士。

到了Tromso后就去超市买点食品，这次的酒店是带厨房的。在瑞典和挪威这几天蔬菜吃得太少，这里也没亚洲的绿叶蔬菜，所以看到有蔬菜色拉就赶紧买，再配些肉和水果，晚饭就随便吃了。饭后就去附近走走，先熟悉一下环境，明天深度游。