Keelung Port 基隆港

Oct. 30, 2023: Last evening aboard the ship, we had the pleasure of attending the final concert featuring Mary-Jess, a soprano from the United Kingdom. This marked our third time witnessing her performance during the voyage, each time left enchanted by her melodious voice. Mary-Jess, an alumna of Nanjing University and a winner of the Chinese X-Factor, is fluent in Mandarin, which she skillfully incorporates into her performances by speaking a few phrases in Chinese and singing a Chinese song. The cruise director, a French national raised in Chile and now residing in Taiwan, is also proficient in Mandarin, as is the ship's general manager, who hails from China. The ship boasted a considerable number of Chinese-speaking guests.

Upon the ship's arrival at Keelung Harbor this morning, we savored our final breakfast. Over the span of 27 days, our mornings were consistently greeted with a freshly prepared omelet, a croissant, and a cup of coffee - a simple yet fulfilling routine, with the extensive buffet offerings failing to tempt our appetites further. Post-breakfast, we disembarked and proceeded to take a train to Taipei Railway Station, followed by a transfer to the airport express line leading to Taoyuan Airport, experiencing firsthand the efficiency of Taiwan's public transport system.

Arriving slightly ahead of schedule at the airport, we were momentarily stalled by airline’s early check-in restrictions, leading us to settle for a less-than-satisfactory bowl of wonton noodles at an airport eatery. Post check-in and customs clearance, we made our way to the airport lounge to await our flight, indulging in a second lunch accompanied by beer and coffee.

Our arrival at Shanghai Pudong Airport was clocked at 5:30 PM. In stark contrast to our experience six months prior, the airport was notably busier, with increased customs booths dedicated to international travelers. What was once a swift five-minute customs clearance had now extended to a forty-five-minute queue, inadvertently prolonging our daughter's wait to over an hour.

This journey back home was quite unique, taking twenty-seven days of sailing across oceans to reach our hometown. It might have been the extended period at sea during the initial part of the voyage, or possibly the daily outings and enjoyment when we docked in the second half, or maybe just the anticipation of homecoming, but towards the end, we found ourselves a bit weary and unfocused. Upon reaching home, the joy of reuniting with our family was immense, and having daughter by our side made it even more special.

十月三十日：昨晚在船上的最后一次音乐会我们再一次享受来自英国的女高音歌手(Mary-Jess)的演唱。我们在船上已看了她三次表演，唱得真好听。她曾留学于南京大学，获得过中国X-factor 冠军，能说一口流利的中国话，所以每次表演都会说上几句中文，唱一首中文歌。这游轮上的巡航总监是智利长大的法国人，现住在台湾，也能说中国话，而船上的总经理来自中国，船上能说中国话的游客也不少。

今天早晨船到了基隆港后，我们先去吃上最后一顿早餐。二十七天在船上，几乎每天早上一个现做的用蛋白煎的蛋卷，一个小羊角面包和一杯咖啡是必须的，简简单单，而其它数不尽的自助餐食品对我们来说一点没食欲。早餐后我们就下船坐火车去台北火车站，再换去机场专线到达桃园机场。台湾的公共交通还是非常方便的。

到机场有点早，中国民航不让我们办理登机手续，只好在机场内的餐厅先吃上一碗馄饨面，不怎么样。等办完登机手续，过海关，来到机场休息室候机，又吃上第二顿午餐，再来点啤酒，咖啡下午五点半到达上海浦东机场。与六月前相比，这次的浦东机场人多了不少，光是为外国人就开了十几个海关窗口。我们六个月前五分钟就搞定的过海关这次竟然排了四十五分钟的队才出关，白白让女儿等了一个多小时。

这次回家行程算是有点特殊，经过二十七天漂洋过海才回到家乡。也许是上半航程中太多天的海上行，也许是下半航程里每天靠岸下船游玩，也许是回家心切，到了最后几天我们觉得有点累，已心不在焉。

到家了，很高兴再次与家人团聚，而且还有女儿陪伴。

Hualien Port 花莲港

Oct. 29, 2023: Our ship arrived at Hualien Port, not far from our previous stop at Hirara Port in Japan. Our Taiwanese compatriots greeted us warmly, sang, and danced on the dock as we disembarked at six in the morning.

Our day was filled with excitement as we embarked on the shore excursion organized by the cruise during this trip: a visit to Taroko National Park. Our first stop was to capture a photo in front of the sign marking the Central Cross-Island Highway. Then, we went on a 3-kilometer hike along the breathtaking Shakadang Trail, winding beside a river valley carved by a crystal-clear stream flanked by imposing cliffs and magnificent scenery.

Our journey continued with a visit to Changchun Shrine, a solemn monument dedicated to the workers who lost their lives while constructing tunnels and trails. However, our enthusiasm waned slightly when we reached the park's visitor center, which offered little to see and lacked any refreshment options. This unexpected downtime cost us fifty precious minutes of exploration.

But our spirits were soon lifted when our guide suggested a visit to Qi Xing Tan, an additional attraction. Here, we indulged in the delectable delights offered by street vendors, including small sausage wrapped with rice, scallion pancakes, and grilled squid. The flavors were simply divine, especially after our adventurous day left us famished.

As our nearly four-week cruise journey draws to a close, we anticipate our arrival at Keelung Port tomorrow. It's a bittersweet moment as we bid farewell to our voyage and eagerly anticipate returning home.

十月二十九日：花莲港离上一站日本的平良港不远，早上六点船就靠岸了。台湾同胞也很热情，在码头上唱歌跳舞欢迎我们。

今天我们参加游轮组织的岸上游，去了太鲁阁国家公园，也是这次游轮中我们唯一一次参加游轮组织的岸上游。先在东西横贯公路门牌前照个相，然后就去溪谷边的砂卡当步道徒步3公里，狭谷被清澈的溪流切割而成，岩壁陡峭，景色壮观。

接着来到长春祠，那是为纪念修建隧道和步道而牺牲的劳工们而建造的。参观完长春祠后，导游就把我们放在公园游客中心。中心实在沒什么可看，并且居然没任何吃的地方，更别说喝咖啡和吃甜点了，白白浪费了五十分钟。回到大巴，导游说带我们去七星潭，算是外加的景点。在那里，从街头小贩那里要了大肠包小肠，葱油饼和烤鱿鱼, 那味道太棒了，饿晕了的时候真是什么都好吃。

明天就要下船了，近四个星期的游轮行也将在基隆港结束，终于可以回家了。

Miyakojima 宫古岛平良港

Oct. 28, 2023: Today marked our arrival at the final Japanese port of this journey, Hirara Port on Miyakojima. The ship docked at 8 a.m., and due to restrictions on walking on the pier, shuttle buses provided by the port transported passengers directly to the terminal building at the pier's end. Miyakojima, part of the Okinawa archipelago, is not very large and lacks any particularly prominent tourist attractions.

Following a route recommended by local volunteers, we set out to explore. Apart from fellow passengers from our ship, few people were on the streets. Our first stop was Miyako Shrine, followed by a leisurely stroll along the coastline. Spotting a small shop with a queue, we hurried over to investigate. It turned out to specialize in seaweed-wrapped rice with canned spam and eggs. We didn't want to miss out today after seeing many similar shops at Naha Port in Okinawa yesterday but not having tried them. A sign on the counter mentioned sashimi, and upon inquiry, we were directed to a fish shop across the street, highly recommended for its offerings. It turned out to be a delightful breakfast experience.

We then ventured to a nearby beach, dipped our feet in the water, and continued exploring the tiny port's main street. Most shops were closed, and the area was deserted, with tourists like us searching for open establishments. Anticipating this, we enjoyed a comforting meal of local noodle soup and Japanese sweet red bean porridge at a small restaurant.

A Halloween event at the seaside park was reportedly arranged explicitly for our ship's arrival, featuring performances and snacks. Unfortunately, rain began shortly after our arrival, prompting us to seek shelter and forego further dining adventures. As we departed Japan today, we had to clear Japanese customs before returning to the ship. The boarding line was exceptionally long, so we decided to wait at a nearby coffee shop, where we enjoyed conversations with fellow Taiwanese passengers. Finally, back on board, our journey in Japan came to a close.

In anticipation of our ship’s arrival in Taiwan tomorrow, the Garden Café adorned in beautiful Chinese-style decorations.

十月二十八日：今天我们来到这次行程的最后一个日本港口，宫古岛的平良港。早上8点船停靠在码头，因为码头上不允许行走，下船有专车直接送到码头终点站楼前。宫古岛是冲绳群岛中的一个，岛不大，也没什么特别的旅游景点。我们就按照当地义工推荐的线路走。街头上除了我们船下来的游客外，几乎没什么人。先去宫古神社看了看，接着就沿海边走。看见一处小店有人排队，赶紧过去看看，是专卖紫菜包饭夹午餐肉和鸡蛋的。昨天在冲绳岛的那霸港看见许多卖这个小吃的，昨天没吃，今天不能再错过。柜台上有个牌子说有生鱼片，问了一下说是对面鱼店的，推荐给我们，还真是很不错的一顿早点心。接着走到不远处的海滩，稍微湿了湿脚又继续往小港口的主街区走，大部分店都没开，冷清清的，路上都是和我们一样的游客满街找店。我们有备而来，在一家小饭店里吃了当地的汤面和日本甜点红豆粥。

海边公园里今天有万圣节活动，据说是专门为我们船的到来而举办的，有些演唱及小吃。可惜我们刚到那里就开始下雨，忙着躲雨没了心情找吃的。因为今天就要离开日本，所以要过日本海关才能回船。回船的队非常非常长，索性去了边上的咖啡店边喝边等，顺便与同船的台湾同胞聊聊天。

终于回到船上，日本游也到此结束。

Naha Port, Okinawa Island冲绳岛那霸港

Oct. 27, 2023: Our ship docked at Naha Port on Okinawa Island this morning after visiting two small ports in the last two days. Naha Port is considered a major port with well-established facilities.

Our primary objective for the day was to explore the castles and parks on the outskirts. Naha Port offers convenient transportation options, including buses and monorail trains. In just over an hour, we reached Shuri Castle on the outskirts. Originally the palace of the Ryukyu Kingdom, it was built in the style of the Forbidden City. Unfortunately, the main hall inside the castle walls was entirely destroyed by a fire in 2019 and is currently undergoing reconstruction.

After departing from the castle, we discovered a nearby local cultural heritage site – the Kinjo Stone Path, an old stone pathway with steep steps. Traditional guesthouses lined the pathway, highlighting the daily challenges faced by residents in their comings and goings. At an intersection, we encountered well-preserved traditional Japanese village houses.

Walking along the tranquil stone pathway, we stumbled upon a restaurant at the end, a delightful find. We relished a delicious and reasonably priced Japanese hot pot and noodle soup for two.

Following lunch, we climbed over a small hill. We embarked on a journey of over thirty minutes to reach Shikina-en, the royal garden of the Ryukyu Kingdom, once favored as a vacation spot for Chinese emperors. While wandering through the garden, we unexpectedly saw someone filming a video. Although unsure whether they were celebrity or an internet sensation, we were captivated by a young man playing the Sanshin and singing beautifully.

We returned to the city center by bus and explored the commercial district, where we indulged in some delectable sushi made with black-haired wagyu beef, renowned for its tenderness. Although most shops along the main commercial street offered various tourist souvenirs, we felt genuinely distinctive Japanese items were lacking.

十月二十七日:接连去了二个小港，今天早上我们的船来到冲绳岛的那霸港，算是个大港，周围设施完善。

今天主要想看郊外的城堡和公园。大港口到底不一样，公交车，单轨铁路都很方便。一个多小时便来到郊外的首里城堡，原是琉球王国的皇宫，按紫禁城建造的，又是一个世界遗产名录的景点，只可惜城墙里面的大殿在2019年被大火全部烧毁了，正在全部重建。

出了城堡，附近有一个当地的文化遗产 - 旧时的石道，坡度很大，还有阶梯。石道二旁还都是民宿，感叹当地的居民每天进出是有多么不方便。路口边还保留着收拾得非常干净的日本传统村屋。沿着幽静的石道往下走，在石道的尽头看到一家餐厅，走进去发现真是找对地方了。俩人吃上一顿物美价廉的日本火锅和汤面。

饭后，我们爬过小山坡，走了三十多分钟来到识名园，琉球王国的皇家花园，以前还用于中国皇帝度假的地方。在花园里，正遇见拍摄小视频，也不知是哪个明星或网红。看了一会儿，弹琴唱歌的男生唱得真不错。

坐公交车回到市中心，在商业区里转一大圈，尝试了一下黑毛和牛寿司，好吃，很嫩。整条商业主街上以卖各种旅游纪念品的商店为主，但觉得真正有日本特色的并不多。

Amami Oshima 奄美大岛

Oct. 26, 2023: Today, we docked at another small port, and there aren't many attractions in Amami City. While many tourists opted for the beaches, we decided to visit a traditional Japanese kimono and silk fabric workshop on the outskirts by the public bus. The workshop was fascinating; they still utilize traditional dyeing and weaving techniques that have been practiced for over a thousand years. The silk fabrics they produce are primarily used for kimonos. Due to the entirely manual production process and the high skill level required, genuine silk fabric production is very time-consuming, resulting in expensive prices.

Upon returning to the city center, we had hoped to try the local delicacy, chicken rice, but unfortunately, the dish in the restaurant sold out. Instead, we settled for sashimi and fried pork cutlet. In the evening, we continued to enjoy sashimi and sushi on the ship. We've had quite a lot of sashimi during this journey in Japan.

十月二十六日：今天停靠的又是个小港，奄美市区也没什么景点，许多游客去了海滩，我们去了郊外的日本和服丝绸布制作坊参观。制作坊很有意思，在那里，至今还采用了有一千多年的传统染色和编织技术，所织丝绸布料主要用于和服。因为真丝布料制作过程完全是手工，技术要求相当高，非常耗时，所以布料价格昂贵。

回到市中心后，想吃当地美食鸡饭，可餐厅卖完了，只能又要了个刺身便饭，还有炸猪排。晚上在船上继续吃刺身和寿司。这一程日本游刺身吃了不少。

Sasebo Port 佐世保港

Oct. 25, 2023: Since we arrived in Tokyo, our cruise has been docking at different ports daily, resembling a river cruise experience. Each morning after breakfast, we disembarked and utilized public transportation or walked to explore the nearby attractions near the port. We typically spend about five to six hours each day on these excursions, covering a distance of at least twenty to thirty thousand steps. After a few days, we're starting to feel a bit tired. Today, we decided to take a break and leisurely stroll around the nearby streets, not going on any trips to the Kujukushima National Park on the outskirts.

Sasebo Port, a Japanese naval stronghold near China and Korea, greeted us as our ship sailed into its bay. The aura of military activity was palpable from the moment we arrived. Relaxing on the outdoor deck at the back of the ship, we were serenaded by the crew's cheerful "coffee, coffee" chant while taking in the breathtaking vistas of the Saikai Bridge and the Hario Radio Tower. This towering structure once transmitted the coded signal that initiated the Pearl Harbor Attack. The weather blessed us with its perfection on this memorable day.

Our first destination was Sasebo 5Bangai, followed by a stroll to a Cathedral church and Tono market. Our journey continued to Saruku City 4O3 Arcade, renowned as Japan's longest shopping street, stretching for a kilometer. While shopping wasn't our priority, we delighted in a delightful Japanese-Western fusion lunch at a restaurant along the bustling arcade, impressed by its exceptional quality. We visited the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force Museum in the afternoon to learn about Japan's history.

Before our ship departed in the evening, a local female singer serenaded us with several beautiful songs on the dock as a farewell gesture.

十月二十五日：自从来到东京后游轮是每天靠岸，有点像河上游。我们更是每天早餐后就下船，利用公共交通和＂1 1路＂在海港附近景点转转，花上五，六个小时，每天至少走二，三万步，几天下来有点累了。今天给自已请个假，就在附近街头看看，不去郊外的国家公园。

在城里1公里长购物街号称是日本最长的购物街，但购物对我们来说并没有吸引力，我们就在街上一家日式西餐厅里吃了顿日西结合的午餐，还不错。下午参观日本自卫海军博物馆，了解一点日本的历史。佐世保港是日本的军港，离中国和韩国很近。

晚上我们的船离开前，当地的一位女歌手在码头上唱了一首又一首好听的歌为我们送行。

Nichinan 日南市

Oct. 24, 2023: Once again, we arrived at a new port. However, the port where we docked, Aburatsu Port, is approximately 1.5 miles away from the center of Nichinan. There are several attractions around the city that we wished to visit, but upon checking, we discovered that while there are buses available, they aren't very convenient. Typically, if the port is far from the city center, free shuttle buses would be provided. However, this time, the cruise only offered shuttle buses for $15 per person, and we had to endure long queues for them. Initially, we lined up for the shuttle bus but eventually opted for a taxi. We agreed to share a cab with two fellow passengers, but after waiting in line for over half an hour, we were informed that all the taxis had been hired out. Our only recourse was to walk from the ship terminal to the city center. We were told that there were temporary shuttle buses to Obi Castle and Udo Shrine near the city center. Consequently, the four of us embarked on a walking journey of over half an hour to reach the city center.

Obi Castle, near Nichinan City, is dubbed "Little Kyoto." Although the ancient Obi Castle dates back to the 15th century, what we observed were primarily recent reconstructions. In China, Korea, and Japan, numerous newly constructed historical sites can become somewhat tiresome to visit after a while, as they don't quite capture the authenticity of the originals.

In small towns in Japan, restaurants typically close from 2 to 5 p.m. We couldn't find any dining options near the tourist attractions, and even upon returning to the city center, we struggled to locate a restaurant for lunch. Upon consulting with locals, they suggested visiting the supermarket. Consequently, we purchased a box of sushi, rice balls, and beverages to satisfy our hunger.

Following that, the two of us strolled along the seaside. The Gion-jinja shrine concealed within the coastal caves was remarkably unique, and Nichinankaigan National Park left a lasting impression. The distinctive rock formations sculpted by wind and rain along the coast evoked memories of the scenic beauty of the "Great Ocean Road" in Melbourne, Australia. Vending machines selling all kinds of drinks are everywhere in Japan, but we found a vending machine with the lowest price while walking back to the ship.

As we returned to the terminal, a quaint market had sprung up for passengers. Though we didn't linger, the sight was bustling. At dusk, our ship gracefully eased away from the dock while a local music and dance troupe entertained us, creating a truly enchanting farewell scene.

十月二十四日：又来到一个新港口。但停靠的海港，油津港离市中心约1.5英里，城市周围有几个景点想去看看，但查了一下有公交车但不是很方便。一般来说，如果码头离市中心很远，码头会提供免费专车，可这次游轮提供专车，收15美金一人，而且还要排长队等车。我们先是排队等专车，然后决定改坐出租车出去，且与另外两位游客说好一起包车，结果排队排了半个多小时后，说出租车都包没了。唯一的选择只能是从船码头走去市中心，说是市中心有临时专车去饫肥城和鹈户神宫，我们俩就与那两位游客一起走了半个多小时来到市中心。去日南市附近的饫肥城号称＂小京都＂，饫肥古城堡建于十五世纪，但现在看到的都是近年来重新建的。中国，韩国和日本好多都是历史的新建筑，看多了有点厌了， 就是与看真货的感觉不一样。

在日本小地方，下午二点到五点餐厅休息，在景区附近没找到吃的，回到市中心后，也找不到饭店吃午饭，问了当地人，说是去超市吃。没办法就在超市里买了一盒寿司，饭团和饮料充饥。

然后我们俩沿着海边往回走，海边藏在山洞里的神社⛩️很有特色，日南海岸国定公园也不错，海边风吹雨打形成的奇特石岩更是觉得有点＂小太阳路＂的景观。

Hiroshima 广岛

Oct. 23, 2023: Today, the sky was clear, and our ship arrived at Hiroshima in the morning, the most anticipated destination of this cruise trip. The pilot boat accompanied our ship into the port with a welcoming water show, which was very nice. Once again, we chose to embark on a self-guided tour. Upon disembarking, we purchased a day pass for sightseeing, which included bus fare and a ferry ticket to Miyajima Island.

Taking a tram to Miyajima Pier, we then boarded a ferry for a fifteen-minute journey to Miyajima. The island is renowned for Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. During high tide, the shrine gate ⛩️ appears to float on the water's surface. Unfortunately, it was low tide upon our arrival, and the shrine gate's pillars were still visible.

Our first culinary adventure involved trying the local specialty, grilled oysters, which, to our disappointment, were average and didn't suit our palates. Raw oysters remained our preference. Conversely, the grilled squid was quite delightful. We then ventured uphill to Momijidani Park, although the maple leaves had only begun to change color, lacking the vibrant hues we had anticipated. Descending, we continued our quest for street food, indulging in skewers of grilled meat, grilled squid, and some grilled mochi balls. Finally, we treated ourselves to some ice cream, constituting our lunch. Another notable feature of the island is its wild deer, akin to those we encountered in Nara Park a few days earlier. However, the deer here were less mannered and would boldly snatch food from tourists. Throughout the meal, we had to fend off the wild deer constantly.

Inside Itsukushima Shrine, we were greeted by a serene and enchanting atmosphere. After purchasing tickets, we wandered around the shrine grounds. As the tide gradually rose, the shrine ⛩️ seemingly floated on the water, presenting an increasingly breathtaking sight. With the island bustling with tourists, we opted not to linger for too long instead of catching the ferry and tram back to Hiroshima. Thankfully, the day pass we had purchased for buses and ferries spared us considerable inconvenience, facilitating our boarding and disembarking.

Boarding the tram to Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, we beheld the only preserved Atomic Bomb Dome. Located directly at the epicenter of the atomic bomb explosion, the dome remarkably withstood the blast with minimal damage, remaining upright. While we had intended to visit the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, the lengthy queue dissuaded us. Instead, we spent some time at the nearby Atomic Bomb Victims Memorial Hall, which was thoughtfully constructed.

Initially, we had planned to sample Hiroshima-style fried noodles in the city center. However, after an unsuccessful search, we hurried back. Near the station, we enjoyed a satisfying and affordable meal at a Japanese chain restaurant, relishing a bowl of noodle soup and tempura.

十月二十三日：今天晴空万里，广岛是这次游轮行中最期待的地方，我们还是自游行。下船后买了一日游的联票，包括公交车以及去宫岛的船票。先乘坐有轨电车去宫岛码头，然后又坐了十五分钟的渡轮来到宫岛。岛上有世界遗产名录的严岛神社，高潮时，神社门⛩️就像浮在水面上。我们刚到时，正好是低潮，神社门柱还都露底。岛上另一特色是野鹿，有点像几天前在奈良公园看到的，不过这里的野鹿比较不文明，会抢游客的食物。

我们先尝试当地特色烤生蚝，但觉得一般，并不适合我们的口味，生蚝还是生的好吃。烤鱿鱼倒是不错。然后就上山去红枫公园，但红枫还刚刚开始变色，几乎没什么颜色。下山后就继续在街上找吃的，要了几串烤肉，烤鱿鱼，还有烤的小圆子最后再来一个冰淇淋，算是当午餐了。吃的时候不停地躲野鹿。

岛上的严岛神社里面非常美，买票进去走一圈看了一下，那时开始涨潮了，神社⛩️慢慢开始有点浮在水中的感觉，越来越漂亮。岛上游客相当多，我们没在岛上呆太久，就坐渡轮和有轨电车回广岛。我们这次幸好买公交渡轮一日通，省了不少麻烦，上下车方便很多。

乘坐有轨电车来到广岛和平纪念公园，目睹了唯一保存的原爆圆顶。因为原子弹爆发中心正好在圆顶建筑的上空，它收到冲击波最小而生存下来。想去广岛和平纪念博物馆看，但因排队太长而放弃，就在附近的原爆受害者纪念堂待了一会儿，纪念堂修建的很不错。

原本还准备在广岛商业街中心尝试一下他们的炒面，走了一圈没找到，就匆匆赶回去。在车站附近一家日本连锁店里吃上一碗汤面和天妇罗等，又是价廉物美的一顿。

Osaka, Nara 大阪，奈良

Oct. 21, 2023: Today, our cruise ship stayed overnight in Osaka, giving us more time to explore the nearby  area. In the early morning, we took the subway to Osaka Castle. Despite just opening, the castle was already bustling with crowds. Alongside the tourist groups, there were numerous local high school student groups. It appears that extracurricular activities in Japan are often scheduled for weekends. Inside the castle, it was even more crowded. The castle boasts eight floors, and ascending the narrow stairs felt akin to being packed in sardines. Although the top floor offers an observation deck, we refrained from venturing out to observe and simply descended even upon reaching the eighth floor. Visitor restrictions would likely have been implemented long ago in the United States.

After leaving the castle, we boarded the subway directly to Nara, Japan's ancient capital. Upon arrival, we indulged in a bowl of noodle soup and sampled Japan's zero-carb noodles. The flavors were delightful, and the food was quite affordable; two bowls of noodle soup cost less than fifteen US dollars. A visit to Nara wouldn't be complete without encountering the deer. These deer have roamed freely in the city for generations, fostering a harmonious relationship with humans. Within the park, Nara's deer frequently approach tourists for food, with vendors selling deer treats along the pathways. When you offer them food, they gracefully bow their heads in return. Witnessing a group of deer crossing the street at a pedestrian crossing was particularly captivating.

A small café inside the park serves tea, coffee, and some simple desserts. We took our break at the cafe, but the food was disappointing. We continued to explore the area, including the UNESCO World Heritage sites such as Kasuga Shrine and the Great Buddha Hall of Todai-ji Temple, followed by another break at a different café serving English afternoon tea.

In the late afternoon, a drizzle commenced, bringing a chill to the air. Following our tour of Nara, we returned to the cruise ship, donned warmer attire, and disembarked again to explore Namba, Osaka's bustling downtown district. The atmosphere was electrifying, perhaps the most extensive and liveliest night market we've encountered. Unlike Taipei and Seoul, dining establishments were predominantly street-facing shops. In addition to sampling the ubiquitous grilled chestnuts, we discovered a barbecue restaurant and savored a dinner of sashimi and grilled seafood, which were delectable. It was a fantastic opportunity to immerse ourselves in the experience of Japanese barbecue.

On Oct. 22, our cruise ship is scheduled to depart from Osaka around noon. After breakfast, we quickly headed to explore the Osaka Umeda commercial district. However, upon arrival, we discovered that most shops and restaurants wouldn't open until 11 o'clock. After searching for a while, all we could find was a seafood rice ball wrapped in seaweed, which wasn't very tasty, and we couldn't find anything else appetizing to eat. Feeling unsatisfied, we lingered until 11 o'clock when the shops finally opened. Unlike last night's night market, this area was dominated by large malls rather than small food streets. There were so many tempting offerings in the food section of the malls we couldn't possibly try them all. The freshly made red bean cakes were mainly delightful and warm. The freshly sliced dried squid had a distinct taste, without preservatives. After purchasing it, the seller even reminded us to consume it within four days. It's a regret we didn't have enough time to stay longer; we had to rush back to the ship terminal.

As the ship slowly eased away from the dock, the vibrant melodies of a local band filled the air, and crowds gathered on the terrace, waving and cheering as they bid farewell to the departing passengers. We had a wonderful diner at the main dining restaurant on the ship.

十月二十一日：今天游轮在大阪过夜，一早我们乘坐地铁去大阪城堡。城堡刚开门，可那里已是人山人海，除了旅游团，更多的是当地中学生团体的，看来在日本课外活动是放在周末做的。进到城堡后那更是摩肩擦踵，城堡一共有八层，从狭窄的楼梯一层层往上去完全就是人贴人。顶层是观望台，到了八层我们都没敢挤出去观望就往下走。在美国的话，应该早就实行人数限制了。

离开城堡后，我们坐地铁直奔奈良，日本最早的首都。下车后，先吃上一碗汤面，还尝试了日本的零克碳化物汤面，味道不错，日本饮食真是便宜，二碗汤面十五美金还不到。来奈良就是要去看花鹿，长期以来萘良鹿自由自在地生活在城里，与人和睦相处。公园里，大街小巷上奈良鹿时常走近游客要吃的，路上有小贩销售鹿食。你给它吃上一片鹿食，低个头，鹿也会低个头。特别有趣的是看着一群花鹿沿着斑马线过马路。我们还参观世界遗产春日大社和兴福寺大金堂等。

下午下点小雨，有点凉飕飕，游完奈良后我们就先回游轮，加点衣服后再次下船，去了大阪城里的难波闹市区。那里更是万头攒动、门庭若市，这大概是我们看到过的最大最热闹的夜市了。与台北和首尔不同的是饮食店都是在街面房内的。尝了尝满街都在卖的烤园子外，还找了一家烧烤店吃了顿晚饭，生鱼片加烤海鲜，味道不错，感受一下日本烧烤。

十月二十二日：今天游轮中午就要离开大阪，我们早餐后赶紧趁早去大阪梅田商业区转转。可是去到那里发现大多数商家和餐厅都要在十一点才开张，找了半天除了一个紫菜包的海鲜冷饭团，味道不怎么样，也没吃上什么好吃的。心不甘，硬是就在那里磨蹭到十一点等商店开门。与昨晚上的夜市完全不同，这里都是大的商场，而不是那种小吃街。大商场里的食品区好东西实在太多都看不过来。现做的豆沙饼热乎乎的非常好吃。现切的尤鱼丝味道就是不一样，没有防腐剂，我们买了之后特别关照我们四天内要吃完的。只可惜我们时间不够不能多待，只能匆匆赶回船码头。

Mount Fuji 富士山脚下

Oct 20, 2023: Today, we arrived at Shimizu, where we could glimpse Mount Fuji. Opting for self-guided exploration, we set out early in the morning, departing from the pier and boarding a public bus bound for Miho-no-Matsubara, renowned for its spectacular views of Mount Fuji. It was our first time navigating Japan's bus system, and we boarded from the front, unfamiliar with the procedures. However, the driver, doubling as the ticket seller, signaled us to use the rear door. We quickly grasped the system of obtaining a ticket upon boarding first, which indicates the boarding station number, and then exiting from the front door at our destination, paying based on the number of stations traveled. After approximately twenty minutes, we arrived at our destination.

We leisurely strolled along the divine pathway flanked by towering pine trees to Miho-no-Matsubara Park. A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, Miho-no-Matsubara Park sprawled to the seashore. The panoramic vista of verdant pine trees, sandy beaches, the vast ocean, and the snow-capped peak of Mount Fuji in the distance was simply breathtaking. Fortunate with favorable weather, we were treated to the awe-inspiring beauty of Mount Fuji's summit. It's said that during winter, adorned with more snow, the sight is even more enchanting.

Upon returning to the ship pier, we sought a sushi restaurant to indulge in more delectable and affordable local cuisine. Following our satisfying meal, we explored some historical sites in the city center, where elderly volunteers eagerly shared insights into the local area despite the language barrier posing some challenges when communicating in English.

As we bid farewell, dockworkers and residents waved goodbye. Looking ahead, we anticipate disembarking and exploring ashore daily, likely clocking another twenty to thirty thousand steps daily.

十月二十日：今天到达SHIMIZU, 在那里可以看到富士山。我们俩自由行，一早就出码头坐公交车去三保松原，那里有最佳角度可以看富士山。好像还是第一次在日本坐公交车，不懂那里的规矩，我们先从前门上车，结果司机兼售票员咕噜一通指着后面要我们从后门上。上车先拿票，票上有上车站号码，到站时从前门下车，按乘坐站数买票。二十几分钟后就到了目的地。我们沿着两边有高大松树耸立的神之道漫步到三保松原公园。三保松原是富士山世界保护遗产的一部分，穿过公园便来到海边。沿海岸茂盛的松树，沙滩，大海与远处白雪盖顶的富士山交结在一起的景色的确是非常美。我们算是幸运的，天气不错，富士山顶有露真容。估计冬天的时候雪更多更漂亮。

回到船码头，找了一家寿司店继续享用当地价廉物美的寿司。饭后在市中心参观一些故迹，在那里总是有年老的义工热心地向我们介绍当地的情况，即使对他们来说用英文交流有点困难。

离岸时，码头工作人员和当地居民向我们招手告别。接下来每天都会靠岸下船，估计每天又要走上二，三万步了。

Tokyo 东京

Oct. 19, 2023: Our 16-day cruise from Seattle to Tokyo concluded, but we remained on board to commence the second leg of our journey. Sailing home on a cruise ship for the first time has been quite an extraordinary experience. Initially, we anticipated relatively few passengers on board for the first leg of the journey due to long stretches at sea with few port stops. However, it was quite the opposite; numerous passengers were on the ship like us, returning to China or Japan. We encountered many others continuing on the second leg, and some even embarked on the third segment. The ship was essentially fully booked, making it even more challenging to find seats during breakfast at the buffet.

Since we were staying on for the journey but had to switch cabins, we just packed our belongings, and the room steward handled the transfer of our luggage to the assigned rooms, alleviating our worries. In the morning, we disembarked and headed to the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. The market was bustling with crowds, making navigating difficult, with long queues everywhere for food. Embracing the lively atmosphere, we queued up to purchase some bluefin tuna sushi and Japanese omelets. The flavors were delightful, and the prices were reasonable.

After exploring the market for a while, we attempted to find more food, but the overwhelming crowds and queues led us to abandon the endeavor. Departing from the fish market, we visited other attractions before indulging in sushi, egg soup, and sashimi rice at a nearby restaurant, all for less than twenty-five dollars. It was indeed a remarkable value.

The weather in Tokyo had been delightful since our arrival, in stark contrast to the rainy days we experienced during the first leg of the journey. We continued to explore the area near the cruise terminal.

Upon returning to our room this afternoon, our travel agent surprised us with a bottle of red wine and chocolate-covered strawberries, signaling a promising start to this leg of the cruise.

十月十九日：我们西雅图东京十六天游轮今天就结束了，但我们继续留在船上开始我们第二段游轮。第一次坐船漂洋过海回家也算是一次特别的经历。原本以为这第一段游程海上航行时间长而停靠港口少，船上游客也许会不太多，但完全出乎意料，船上有不少像我们一样回中国，回日本的。碰到不少像我们一样继续坐第二段的，更有一些继续坐第三段的。船基本上满客，早餐吃自助餐时，都找不到位子。

今天换房间，我们不用管，早上就下船去东京渔巿场。市场里人山人海，走路都有点难，到处都有排长队买吃的。我们也去凑个热闹，排着队买了二份蓝鳍金枪鱼寿司和蛋饼，味道还不错，价格又便宜。在市场里转了一大圈，还想找点吃的，但人实在太多，队太长，排了队又放弃了。离开渔巿场后又去其他景点转一转，然后在一家寿司店吃些寿司，蛋汤，生鱼片饭，花了不到二十五美金，真是价廉物美。

来东京后，天气特别好，非常舒服，与第一程许多阴雨天完全相反。昨天到达时，码头上敲锣打鼓欢迎我们。今天下午回到的房间，我们订票代理送来巧克力裹草莓和红酒一瓶，看来这一段游轮有个好开端。

Yokohama 横浜

Oct. 18, 2023: Shortly after we set sail from Seward, Alaska, on October 8th, the captain announced that the unruly waves made it impossible to head towards the Bering Sea. Opting for an alternate route, we turned southwards. Yet, the Pacific Ocean presented its own challenges, stirring with four impending storms, including a formidable super typhoon. Despite the captain's skillful efforts to steer us clear of the tempests, luck did not favor our voyage. The subsequent ten days were filled with continuous upheaval on the open sea. Nonetheless, we endeavored to make the most of our circumstances, engaging in the ship's various entertainments, delighting in an array of exceptional dishes, and committing to a daily goal of 10,000 steps around the deck.

Although our ship successfully avoided one storm after another, we couldn't head west towards Japan until we finally bypassed the super typhoon. By then, we had veered too far south to reach our first two ports in Japan - Hakodate and Sendai, leaving us no option but to head straight for Tokyo and spend the night there. We arrived at a newly inaugurated Tokyo International Cruise Terminal in the morning today. A dockside ceremony greeted us, complete with live musical performances, marking a celebratory end to our tumultuous journey at sea.

Having previously visited Tokyo, we opted to explore Yokohama this time. Renowned for having Japan's largest Chinatown, it was also the most beautiful one we had ever seen. We indulged in various delicious Chinese dishes there, with the Shanghainese-style pan-fried buns catching our attention the most. A popular shop boasted a long queue, we didn’t want to wait and randomly selected a smaller shop to sample their offerings. Traditional pork and seafood-filled buns, both of which were delicious and comparable to those from Xiao Yang's Fry Dumpling in Shanghai.

Subsequently, we boarded a bus to visit the traditional Japanese garden, Sankeien. Its beauty was breathtaking, and strolling through its serene paths was a delightful experience. After our garden excursion, we planned to enjoy a bowl of Japanese ramen in the city center. However, upon arrival, we found ourselves amidst towering skyscrapers, and an elderly volunteer informed us that the city center lacked notable ramen establishments. Consequently, we hailed a taxi to the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum, albeit requiring some explanation to the driver about our destination.

The Ramen Museum comprises several ramen shops, with the first floor dedicated to exhibits detailing the history of ramen. Descending to the basement, we found ourselves in a meticulously recreated old-style street, housing various shops specializing in different styles of ramen. Admission to the museum was $2.5, with an additional $5 offering a taste of delectable ramen. We tried different styles of ramen from two shops, both of which left a lasting impression with their delicious flavors.

Following our satisfying ramen, we utilized the light rail to return to Tokyo, spending time circling around the area near the Tokyo cruise terminal. By day's end, we had accumulated over 20,000 steps on foot in addition to utilizing public transportation and taxis.

十月十八日: 自十月八日离开阿拉斯加的苏厄德后不久船长就宣布白令海去不了，那里风浪太大，决定南下。可太平洋也不太平，有四个风暴包括一个超级台风等着我们，船长觉得有可能从风暴中穿梭航行。可人算不如天算，我们的船躲过一个接一个风暴却始终无法西行往日本去，直到最终绕过超级台风之后才能西行，但此时船往南已经走得太远，这个行程的第一和第二站函馆和仙台去不成了，只能直奔东京，在东京过夜。

几年前来过东京，这次到东京后，我们就去横浜转转。横浜有日本最大的中华街，也是我们去过的最漂亮的中华街，街上有各色各味的中国美餐，最为吸引的是上海生煎，有个网红店外面排着长队，我们就随便选了一家小店试一下，有原味的，还有绿色是海鲜的，味道很不错，不比上海小杨生煎差。

接着坐公交车去日本传统园林三溪园，很漂亮，在园区内漫步很舒坦。原本想去市中心吃碗日本拉面，到那里后发现那里都是高楼大厦，又碰上志愿者告诉我们那里没什么好的拉面店。我们就叫了出租车去新横浜拉面博物馆，上车后咕噜半天才说明了我们想去哪里。

拉面博物馆实际上有几个拉面店组成，一层有关于拉面历史的记载。地下层建成旧时的小街，好几家拉面馆卖不同特色的拉面。进博物馆要付$2.5 门票，但$5就可以吃上一小碗香喷喷的拉面。我们尝试了二家拉面，味道都相当不错。

饭后就乘坐轻轨回东京，在东京游船码头转了一大圈。一天下来，除了坐轻轨，公交车和出租车外又走了二万多步。

Seward 苏厄德

Oct. 8, 2023: Yesterday was a sea day. In the morning, the ship first cruised around Hubbard Glacier, but the weather wasn't good; it was foggy and not very picturesque. The weather worsened in the afternoon with strong winds and high waves, and even the deck was closed. We spent the time in the gym and attended a concert.

Early this morning, we woke to find the ship docked at Seward, Alaska. We had been here before during the summer tourist season when it was bustling with people and various tourist activities. However, today, it was deserted, with nothing around. After breakfast, we quickly disembarked and walked along the seaside to the town center, but we couldn't find a single coffee shop. The tourist season ended in early October, and most businesses and restaurants were closed. The pedestrians on the streets were all from our ship. It was a bit disappointing, and by the time we returned to the ship, it was already lunchtime. While eating, we casually chatted with a few fellow passengers. It is our ship’s last stop in the United States, and next, we'll be heading towards the Bering Sea with some weather concerns.

十月八号：昨天一整天在海上，早上船先来到Hubbard 冰川转一圈。因为天气不好，雾蒙蒙的不怎么好看。下午天气越来越差，风大，浪大，都不让去甲板了。那就用健身房，演唱会来消磨时间。

今天一早醒来发现船已停靠在阿拉斯加的苏厄德（Seward)。这地方以前我们也来过，当时是夏天，旅游的旺季。人多，有各种各样旅游项目。但今天这里是冷冷清清，什么都没有。早餐后我们赶紧下船，沿着海边往镇中心走了一圈，都没找到一家咖啡馆。十月初旅游季节已过，大部分商家餐厅都关门了。路上行人都是我们船上的游客。有点失望，回到船上已经是午餐的时间。边吃边和几位游客聊天。这是美国最后一站，接下来要为过白令海担忧。

Icy Strait Point

Oct. 6, 2023: Today, the cruise ship docked at Icy Strait Point. This pier was constructed to promote the local tourism. Nearby is a small town called Hoonah, with around eight to nine hundred permanent residents. The entire area, except for the national forest, belongs to the Alaska Native (referred to as Native Americans in other states) Cooperation. The facilities are excellent; after disembarking, you can take a free cable car to the pier center, where there are restaurants, gift shops, and more. However, we did not stay there; instead, we walked along the seaside trail to Hoonah, about two kilometers away.

Initially, we were hesitant about walking there because this area has the highest density of brown bears in the world. We could take a shuttle bus to the town if we chose not to walk. Later, we met a couple walking to the town, so we joined them, which gave us some courage. The scenery along the way was beautiful, and it naturally compelled us to slow down and enjoy the calm and serene seascape.

The town of Hoonah doesn't have any particularly notable tourist attractions. After walking around, we still couldn't forget the desire to see brown bears and appreciate the natural grandeur of the forest here. Outside the town government office, we hired a local indigenous guide who drove us to Tongass National Forest to look for brown bears. He even carried a hunting rifle and led us on foot down to a small stream. Along the way, there were traces of brown bears everywhere, and we even saw the snow-white remnants of roots the bears had just eaten. He thought the bear should not be far away, asking if we wanted to continue. However, we decided to turn back, not knowing how we would react if we encountered a large brown bear. When we returned to the car, the guide told us that few tourists dared to go to that stream to look for brown bears.

Along the way, the guide also got out of the car to mimic the call of a deer, and one time, a female deer ran towards us from the woods. The guide said it was a hunting technique used by the locals. Throughout the journey, he shared a lot about their lives and culture, and we gained a lot of insights and learned many things. After four hours, we saw many traces left by brown bears but did not see any bears.

Upon returning to the pier and returning to the cruise ship, we unexpectedly saw a brown bear in the woods near the bridge, confirming that there were quite a few brown bears in this area.

十月六日

游船今天停靠Icy Strait Point，这码头是为促进当地旅游经济而兴建的。附近有个小镇叫Hoonah，有八，九百居民。整个地区除了国家森林外都归属于阿拉斯加原居民(其他州叫印地安人)集团。兴建的设施不错，下船后就可乘坐免费缆车到码头中心，那里有饭店，礼品商点等。但我们并没有在那里停留，而是沿着海边的步行道漫步走去二公里外的小镇Hoonah。起初还为该不该走去纠结，因为这地区是世界上棕熊密度最高的地方，不走的话可以坐专车去小镇。后来碰到一对夫妇也徒步去小镇，我们就与他们结伴，也算是给我们壮个胆。沿途风景优美，让人不由自主地放慢脚步，欣赏平静安逸的海景。

小镇Hoonah上没有什么特别的旅游景点，转了一圈后，还是念念不忘想去看棕熊，欣赏这里自然大森林。

在镇政府门外找了位当地原住民导游，他开车带我们俩去Tongass 国家森林找棕熊去。他还带着猎枪带我们下车徒步一段下到一小溪，一路上到处都是棕熊留下的痕迹，看到熊刚吃完的菜根，菜根颜色还是雪白的，他说熊应该就在不远，问我们是否还想继续往前，我们觉得还是见好就收，回头吧。如果我们真的碰上大棕熊，不知我们俩会有什么样的反应。回到车上导游告诉我们，少之又少的游客敢下到那个小溪去找棕熊的。

沿途导游还下车学鹿叫，有一次一只母鹿还真的从树林里朝我们奔来。导游说这是他们当地人打猎的技巧。一路上他与我们聊了许多他们的生活和文化，我们受益匪浅，学了不少东西。前前后后开了四个小时，看到了许多棕熊留下的痕迹，但就是没看到熊。

回到码头走回游轮时，却在桥边的树林里看到一个棕熊，也证明了这里的棕熊还真不少。

Ketchikan 凯奇坎

Oct. 5, 2023: Yesterday, we were at sea the entire day under cloudy and foggy weather, unable to see anything. We had breakfast and lunch at the Garden Cafe and had dinner at the main dining room, The Palace. This cruise is our fourth time sailing with NCL in the last twelve months, and it seems like their menu is pretty similar across all their ships. The remaining time was spent reading, visiting the gym, and walking around the ship on the deck; by the end of the day, we had walked over ten thousand steps. In the evening, we went to see a magic show.

Early this morning, the ship arrived at the first stop of this journey, Ketchikan. The ship docked at a small pier, a dedicated pier for NCL and another cruise company near Ketchikan. This time, we opted for an independent excursion rather than joining a tour. After breakfast, we disembarked and took a free shuttle to the city center to catch a lumberjack show. It was our first time watching such a show, and we joined in the cheering and laughter, thoroughly enjoying ourselves. After that, we explored the town. We had visited it six years ago during our first cruise, and it felt good. However, while walking along the river this time, we smelled the stench of dead salmon. The river and its banks were filled with salmon that couldn't make it upstream.

After a considerable walk, we found a seafood restaurant where we ordered a bowl of salmon chowder and a large crab. The taste of the crab was quite good, very fresh, better than what we had bought in a Phoenix store, and the prices seemed to have not increased much compared to six years ago.

We then took the shuttle back to the ship. We initially planned to go to the Chinese restaurant on board for dinner. However, when we arrived at the restaurant just as it opened, we were told it was fully booked, and we would have to wait an hour. We remembered having eaten there twice earlier this year during our cruise to Central America, and the experience was not great. Since we didn't want to wait long, we went to the main dining room instead. The menu there changes every day, so there's always something delicious. After filling ourselves up, we walked on the deck to digest. Surprisingly, we had walked over twenty thousand steps today. The evening's entertainment was a concert by the vocalist Melissa Mc Laughlin, and that's how the day ended.

十月五日

昨天是海上航行，一整天都是在云里雾里，什么都看不见。早中餐去了花园餐厅自助餐，晚餐在主餐厅。这是我们最近十二个月第四次乘坐NCL了，好像他们所有的船菜单都差不多。剩下时间就看看书，去了一下健身房，还有在甲板上绕船走走，一天下来也走了有一万多步。晚上去看了魔术秀。

今天一早船来到这次行程的第一站，凯奇坎（Ketchikan) 。船停靠在离凯奇坎镇不远的小码头, 是NCL和另外一家游船公司专用码头。这次我们自由行，不跟团。早餐后就下船坐免费专车去市中心，赶去看伐木工秀。第一次看类似的秀，跟着起哄搞笑，很开心。然后就在城里转转。我们六年前来过这里，那是第一次乘坐游轮，感觉不错。但这次沿着小河边走时，闻到死三文鱼的臭味，河里河边都是那些未能逆行而上的三文鱼。

转了一大圈后，找了一家海鲜店要了一碗三文鱼浓汤和一个大肉蟹，味道相当不错，很新鲜，比在凤凰城店里买的好吃点，好像价格与六年前相比也没涨多少。

然后就乘坐专车回船。晚餐原打算是去船上的中国饭店，结果掐着点刚开始营业我们就来到饭店门口，居然被告知已客满，要等一个小时。还记得今年初坐这艘船去中美洲时在这家饭店吃过二次，印象并不好，而今天我们只是想再试一下，同时也是想换个口味。既然客满了，不想等那么久，于是又来到主餐厅。那里每天的菜单都不一样，所以总是有好吃的。吃饱喝足先去甲板走走消化一下，再看一下今天走的路，居然有走二万多步。今天晚上的节目是听演唱会，一天就这样结束了。

Embarkation-16 days Pacific Crossing Cruise上船了

Oct. 3, 2023: Yesterday, we left Phoenix and flew to Seattle, where we stayed at the Marriott Hotel near the airport for one night. When we checked in last night, the front desk informed us that there was a cruise shuttle service to the terminal with a price similar to Uber, so we had them arrange it for us. This morning, the shuttle arrived promptly at the hotel, and in about thirty minutes, we arrived at Pier 66. Seeing the NCL Jewel cruise ship there gave us a sense of nostalgia because we had sailed on the NCL Jewel in January when we went to Panama.

The embarkation process was straightforward, with not many people and no need to wait in line. We were on board in no time. Moreover, our stateroom had already been cleaned and was ready for us to move in. Despite having taken several NCL cruises in the past year, this was our smoothest embarkation experience. After settling in, we went to the Garden Cafe on the twelfth deck for lunch. We knew that the buffet there wasn’t the best, but for our first meal, we opted for convenience. After lunch, the sky cleared up, and we disembarked to stroll along the nearby waterfront. The waterfront park felt so familiar because we had spent three months in Seattle in the summer of 2021, leaving countless footprints there.

Our ship departed at 5:30 PM, right on schedule, slowly leaving Seattle behind. It was a rare instance of such great weather, and the view of Seattle from the sea was breathtaking.

In the evening, we dined at the main restaurant downstairs and then went to watch a comedy show. For the next month, this ship will be our home.

十月三日: 昨天离开凤凰城飞到西雅图，在机场附近的万豪酒店住了一晚上。昨晚入住时前台告诉我们有游船码头专车可以来酒店接我们，价格和Uber差了不多，我们直接就让前台订了。今天上午专车准时来到酒店接我们，三十分钟左右便抵达66码头。看到NCL Jewel 游轮停在那里，我们有种亲切感，因为今年一月去巴拿马时就是坐的NCL Jewel 这艘船。

上船手续很简单，人不多不用排队，一会儿就上了船。而且客房已经清理干净，直接可以入住。近一年坐了不少NCL的船，这么顺利还是第一次。安顿好后，我们就上十二层花园餐厅用餐。知道那里的自助餐并不怎么样，第一顿，图个方便。午餐后，天空转晴，我们俩下船沿着附近海边溜达。海边公园是多么熟悉，二零二一年夏天我们在西雅图住了三个月，在海边公园那里留下无数脚印。

我们的船5:30pm 准时启航，慢慢离开西雅图。难得这么好的天气，从海上看西雅图，风景优美。

晚上先去楼下的主餐厅吃晚餐，然后去看Comedy show。

接下来近一个月这艘船就是我们的家了。

Canmore 坎莫尔

9/20: Nine years ago,  we came to Canada to visit the Banff National Park and stayed at Canmore, sitting outside the gates to the Banff National Park. That trip was with our kids, and we had a wonderful time. Today, just two of us revisited the familiar place and felt a strong nostalgia.

Our direct flight to Calgary was comfortable and smooth. After a little over an hour's drive, we arrived at the WorldMark Resort in Canmore. Once we checked in and dropped off our luggage, we went to the city center and had dinner at an Asian restaurant, Quatro Asian Bistro. We got the Crispy Pata, a Filipino dish of deep-fried pig' knuckles served with kimchara salad and homemade spiced vinegar sauce. It was huge and tasted delicious. We couldn't finish it, so we packed the big bones and some meat and brought them back to our hotel. We also had Pad Thai, which was good, but the taste was a little different from the Thai we used to have back in the U.S. Our hotel room had a full kitchen, and we went grocery shopping after dinner.

9/21: After a good night's rest, we made breakfast in our unit. Bacon, eggs, croissants, and coffee are our favorite kinds of breakfast. Then, it was time to head out and explore. We went for a long walk, a ten-mile stroll around Canmore.

We started with walking to the town center area, and there were some beautiful trails along the Bow River. The weather was great, the scenery was beautiful, and our spirits were high. We had a simple lunch in the town center and later had our afternoon coffee break. Eventually, we left the town center, headed towards the hills, strolled through some very nice neighborhoods, and stopped at Quarry Lake Park. This small park boasts picnic tables, a swimming area, walking trails, sightseeing benches, etc. The lake and surrounding area were peaceful, and trees were turning yellow, which was absolutely beautiful. From there, we walked back to our hotel.

9/22: We drove directly to Moraine Lake and Lake Louise nine years ago. Things changed a lot through the years. We had to grab special tickets online for park shuttles to get there this time. Tickets were hard to come by, but luckily, we got tickets for our preferred time slot after many tries. The ample parking lot for the park & ride was almost full when we arrived. We took the shuttle bus to Moraine Lake first, did some hiking/walking, had lunch there, and then took the shuttle bus to Lake Louise. Both attractions were crowded, and although the scenery was beautiful, it didn't quite capture the same feeling as before. Perhaps it's because of the autumn season, with the green of summer gone, the golden hues of fall yet to come. Nonetheless, we walked along the lakesides of both lakes, just like we did nine years ago.

In the evening, back in Canmore, we dined at a restaurant in the town center, and when we looked out the window, the Three Sisters peaks were right in front of us. Since coming to Canmore, we've searched for the perfect photography spot for the Three Sisters peaks. We took some photos near the hotel last night, but they didn't turn out as good as we hoped. After dinner, the two of us went out in pursuit of the perfect "shot."

9/23: We consecutively walked ten and eleven miles in the last two days. Today, we decided not to walk but instead visited a relative in Edmonton. Since it's about a four-hour drive each way, we got up early and headed out.

We passed through heavy fog before reaching Calgary, with very low visibility. It's been a while since we drove in such weather conditions. However, after passing Calgary, it was clear skies all the way. The cornfields, haystacks, and simple, beautiful houses on both sides of the road made it feel like we were back in Iowa, where we used to live, giving us a sense of tranquility and warmth.

Lunch was at a Hong Kong-style restaurant, and it was a delightful meal. We even took the remaining food with us and enjoyed some salt and pepper spare ribs on the way back to Canmore, which served as our dinner.

9/24: We arrived late last night after the long drive, so we planned for a more relaxed day today. Chenggang went hiking solo in the hills behind the hotel, covering 5.7 miles in about two and a half hours. Connie walked to the town center alone and was later joined by Chenggang, where we continued walking along the Bow River. The trees along the river were turning more yellow day by day. Each day, the town's scenery grew increasingly stunning.

Today should be relaxing since we did long walking/hiking in the first two full days, and we drove for long hours yesterday. But somehow, we managed to walk another ten miles by the end of the day. The weather here is so pleasant, and we genuinely enjoy our time.

9/25: We came to Canmore for relaxation, and the air here is fresh, with pleasant autumn scenery all around. However, we can't seem to sit still. The surrounding mountains have countless hiking trails, perfect for outdoor activities. While we've been averaging around ten miles of walking daily, the difficulty level has been relatively low. Today, Chenggang selected a hard trail from AllTrails. He hiked six miles in six hours, covering a steep 1.8-mile ascent of 2,700 feet in elevation, followed by a similarly steep descent. The challenging part of the trail has an average of 2000 ft elevation gain per mile and a similar slope on the way down. There was hardly any flat terrain to rest on along the way. Online reviews stated this trail was meant for mountain goats. He encountered only a few hikers after four hours of hiking. It was one of the most challenging hikes he had attempted. However, the view from the mountaintop was unparalleled, with the Three Sisters peaks right there. It was worth it.

The town center has a river, and there are walking paths on both sides of it, offering picturesque views. Connie didn't want to challenge herself with hard mountain climbing, so she walked to the town center again, strolling along the river path and enjoying the autumn scenery. When she got tired, she found a restaurant on the main street in the city, where she sat down to enjoy her meal and watched tourists passing by. In addition to the riverside path, the town has many other trails where you can walk as far as you like. When Connie finally returned to the hotel, she realized she had walked almost another ten miles, even more mileage than Chenggang.

9/26: Today, we made our way back to Calgary from Canmore, and along the way, the autumn colors became more vibrant, with golden hues everywhere, much more beautiful than when we arrived last week. Before heading to the airport, we visited Prince's Island Park in Calgary, taking a leisurely walk along the park's trails and admiring the golden autumn leaves. We tried Arctic Char and Beef Tartare in the park's restaurant, which was delicious. We arrived at the airport several hours before our flight and headed to the airport lounge to wait. Our one-week Canadian autumn adventure has come to an end, and we had a great time.

九月二十一日：九年前来到加拿大小镇坎莫尔时还拖儿带女，与三家朋友一起度过美好的时光。今天我们俩故地重游，倍感亲切。昨晚来后，去市中心要了个油炸猪脚圈，味道不错。今天一早出去走了一大圈，十英里。好天气，好风景，好心情。

九月二十二日：上次还是开着车直接去班芙二湖 - 梦莲湖和路易斯湖，这次却要上网抢专车票才能去那里。一票难求，但最后阴差阳错还拿到了理想时间段的车票。旅游景点游客众多，景色虽是秀丽，但总觉得没有以前那种感受。也许是因为秋天的缘故，没了夏天的绿，只有秋天的枯黄。我们还是像以前一样沿着湖边走到湖尖。

傍晚回到Canmore，在一家餐厅里用餐，抬头从窗口望出去，三姐妹峰就在眼前。来Canmore这里后，就一直找三姐妹峰的最佳摄影点，昨晚在旅店附近拍了几张照，但总觉得不理想。饭后，两人出去追＂景＂。

九月二十四日：前面二天连着走了十英里和十一英里，昨天不走了，而是去埃德蒙顿看望亲戚。路过卡尔加里前大雾弥漫，能见度很低，好久没在这种气候下开车了。过了卡尔加里后就晴空万里，在去埃德蒙顿的路上，两边的玉米地，草垛，和简洁漂亮的小屋，就好像回到以前曾经居住过的爱荷华州，给人一种宁静而又温暖的感觉。中午在一家港式餐厅里美餐一顿，把剩菜也带上，在赶回Canmore的路上把椒盐排骨消灭了，算是晚餐了。

因为昨天开长途回来的很晚，今准备轻松一下。成刚一人在旅馆边的山上徒步5.7英里，二个半小时。又去镇中心与在那里漫步的佩民会合，继续在弓河边散步。说是放松放松，结果一天下来又走了十英里。现在这里的天气真舒服，我们很享受。

九月二十五日：说是来坎莫尔休闲的，这里空气清新，秋天景色宜人。但我们俩是闲不住的，周围山里有无数的徒步小道，实在是太适合户外活动了。之前虽每天都平均走十英里左右，但难度都不大。今天成刚在AllTrails 上选了条挑战性的徒步小道走走。六个英里走了六小时，上坡2.6英里爬高2700英尺，到山顶后又以同样坡度下山，一路上几乎没有平地可歇脚的。网上评论是这条小路是山羊走岀来了的。走了四个多小时才碰见几位徒步者。他一直想知道自己的极限在哪里，今天这个应该算是他的极限。不过，山顶的景色无与伦比，三姐妹峰近在眼前，也算值得了。

小镇中心有河，沿河二边都有小径，风景如画。佩民不想爬山挑战自己，便一个人走去镇里，沿着河边小径漫步赏秋，走累了在镇中心的步行街上找个饭店坐下边吃边看过往游客。吃饱喝足继续走，除了沿河小径，小镇里还有其它许多小径，想走多远就可以走多远。等回到旅馆发现又是走了近十英里，比成刚走了还多。

九月二十六日：今天打道回府，从Canmore 开车回到卡尔加里。沿途秋意渐浓，遍地金黄，比我们上周来的时候漂亮多了。在去机场之前，先去了卡尔加里的王子岛公园，沿着公园内的小径漫步，欣赏金色的秋叶。在公园餐厅里，品尝北极鲑和鞑靼牛肉，味道相当不错。然后早早来到机场，离登机还有好几个小时，就去了贵宾休息室侯机。一周加拿大秋游就此结束，玩得很开心。

Going Home 回家

June 27-28: We said goodbye to Reykjavik today and flew to New York City. Since both of our kids live in New York City, we made a short stop to visit them for a couple of days. It was our third time coming to New York City in less than a year, so we didn't go anyway or do anything this time; we just stayed at our daughter's apartment and relaxed. The four of us had an excellent BBQ on her building's outdoor terrace under perfect summer weather.

June 29: It's been an incredible journey since we departed from Phoenix on March 30th. Over three months, we traversed seven countries and regions(1) and explored twenty-five captivating cities and towns(2). As we ventured around the globe, our travels encompassed various modes of transportation, including planes, trains, cruise ships, and buses.

Today, we're back in Phoenix, marking the end of an extraordinary adventure. We've experienced countless firsts, encountered diverse cultures, and gained valuable insights, enriching our perspectives.

Reflecting on the past three months, we're grateful for this exploration that pushed our comfort zones. Each new destination brought wonders and challenges, fostering personal growth and cherished memories. The most heartwarming moment was reuniting with our family in Shanghai after three and a half years, filling our hearts with joy and anticipation.

The world is vast, time is limited, but the memories and experiences from this voyage will forever be etched in our hearts. As we return home, we carry a treasure trove of lessons and gratitude for this life-changing adventure.

The list of countries and places visited:

(1) South Korea, China Taiwan, China, United Arab Emirates, Norway, Sweden, and Iceland.

(2) Seoul, Andong, Busan, Gyeongju, Jeonju, Taipei, Shanghai, Zhenjiang, Yangzhou, Ningbo, Shaoxing, Dubai, Oslo, Stockholm, Narvik, Tromso, Harstad, Hammerfest, Alta, Honningsvag, Longyearbyen (Svalbard), Akureyri, Isafjordur, Reykjavik, New York City.

自3月30号离开凤凰城后，历经七个国家和地区（1），停留二十五城镇(2），乘坐飞机、火车、游轮和大巴环绕地球一圈后终于在6月29号又回到凤凰城。在这整整三个月的旅行中，我们经历了无数个我们人生中的第一次，见了很多也学到了很多。深感欣慰能够有机会走出去看看，体验一下不同的文化，挑战一下自已。当然最为高兴的是在三年半后又重返上海与家人团聚。

世界很大，时间有限，且行且珍惜。

(1) 韩国、台湾、中国、阿联酋、挪威、瑞典和冰岛

(2) 首尔、安东、釜山、庆州、全州、台北、上海、镇江、杨州、宁波、绍兴、迪拜（Dubai）、奥斯陆（Oslo）、斯德哥尔摩（Stockholm）、Narvik、Tromso、Harstad 、Hammerfest 、Alta、Honningsvag、Longyearbyen（Svalbard)、阿克雷里（Akureyri）、伊萨菲约杜尔（Isafjordur）、雷克雅未克（Reykjavik）、纽约市 (New York City)

Puffins and Reykjavik 海鸚鵡和雷克雅未克

June 26: After two long guided tours in the past two days, we decided to take it easy and enjoy a more relaxed pace today. We allowed ourselves to sleep in a bit, enjoying the comfort of our accommodations. Upon waking up, we were pleased to find that the weather was fair, with occasional glimpses of sunlight peeking through the clouds, and it got much better later in the day.

Reykjavik is the capital and largest city of Iceland. There are many things to see and do. We visited a few attractions on the first day we arrived and would catch up with the rest today. After a delightful breakfast, we explored the City Hall and the Parliament House. Following our visit, we leisurely strolled around a charming small lake near the City Hall, enjoying the serene surroundings and the tranquil atmosphere. It was a pleasant and laid-back morning, allowing us to unwind and savor the beauty of Reykjavik at our own pace.

Believe it or not, Icelandic hot dog is a popular food in Iceland. We heard about the famous hot dog vendor that boasted of serving the best hot dogs in town, and true to the claim, there were long queues of eager customers lining up in front of the stall. Connie reminisced that just two years ago, no one was in line at that spot, and she even had photographic evidence to back it up. The pandemic has indeed brought about significant changes in tourism and visitor patterns. Despite the allure of the famous vendor, we didn't want to wait in a long line for a hot dog and opted for a hot dog from a nearby small shop. The hot dog was undeniably tasty, yet we couldn't help but feel it fell short of justifying its five-dollar price tag. Nevertheless, the experience allowed us to savor a popular Icelandic food. These little moments of exploration often leave the most lasting impressions during our travels.

Apart from hot dogs, Icelandic fish and chips are also a must-try. So, we went to another famous shop across the street from our apartment and shared one fish and chips. Over the past few days in Iceland, we've had fish and chips multiple times, and this place served a tasty version, one of the best. After paying, they even gave us two pieces of chocolate cookies as a bonus.

The street murals in Reykjavik, Iceland, elevated the city's lively artistic vibe. As we roamed the streets, we spontaneously snapped photos of these mesmerizing artworks. They provided a striking contrast to the meticulously regulated house paint in the HOA-governed neighborhoods where we reside.

One thing we hadn't done in Iceland so far was see puffins. Connie brought back many beautiful photos of adorable puffins two years ago, and this time, Chenggang hoped to see them in person. We did not get a chance to go on the puffin tour when our cruise ship stopped at Isafjordur a few days ago. There is a small island outside Reykjavik known for puffin watching, but the weather had been terrible in the past few days, and the boats couldn't go out. Finally, the sky cleared up, and the wind subsided this afternoon, and Chenggang quickly booked the last available spot.

After a delightful fifteen-minute ride, the boat arrived at the protected island near the city. Passengers could not disembark on the island due to its conservation status. Instead, everybody remained on the boat, eagerly observing the diverse birds inhabiting the area, including the adorable and agile puffins. With a long lens, Chenggang captured their charm and grace in photographs. He took snapshots of the puffins in flight, expertly clutching fish in their mouths, and some captivating close-ups of the puffins gracefully gliding across the sea. The encounter with these charming creatures undoubtedly became a highlight of the day, filling him with joy and leaving him with cherished memories of this enchanting island adventure.

We opted for a delicious dinner from the supermarket, enjoying roasted pork belly and traditional Icelandic lamb soup. The lamb soup was a delightful surprise, as it was incredibly flavorful without any gamey taste, leaving us wishing we had tried it more often during our stay.

After a satisfying meal, we took advantage of the rare good weather and went for a leisurely stroll along the picturesque seaside. Along the way, we visited and revisited a few more attractions. It was the perfect way to end the day and our long journey, immersing ourselves in the serene surroundings and soaking in the tranquil atmosphere, making the most of our time and creating lasting memories of our incredible time in Iceland.

It's time to go home.

6/26: 今天没什么大安排，睡了个懒觉。起床后，发现今天天气还可以，不能说是大晴天，但太阳时常会露面一会儿。早餐后，去市政府楼和议会大楼那里看看，环绕着市政府楼边的小湖走了一圈。

都说来冰岛要尝一下冰岛热狗，号称是这里最好热狗的网红小贩的亭子前排着长队，佩民说二年前亭子前一个人都没有，有照片为证，都是疫情惹的祸。我们今天就不凑这个热闹，而是在旁边一家小店里要了个热狗。味道还不错，但怎么也不值五美金。

除了热狗，冰岛的炸鱼块和薯条也是必须要尝的。接着我们来到公寓对面的另一网红店俩人分享了一份炸鱼块和薯条。其实来冰岛这几天炸鱼块和薯条已经吃了好几次，今天的这家网红店味道的确不错，付款后还给了二块巧克力饼干。

回房休息一会儿后，天气转晴，风也小下来了。来冰岛后，还有一事没做成-看海鸚鵡。佩民二年前带回许多漂亮可爱海鹦鹉的照片，这次来冰岛就一直希望也能亲眼目睹。Reykjavik 外面有一个小岛是看海鹦鹉的好地方，前几天的天气实在太糟糕，船都不能出海，今天下午总算是云开雾散，赶紧订票抢了最后一个名额。

乘坐小船十五分钟后来到城市不远的小岛边，小岛受保护的，不能上岛，只能远远停在海上观望，岛上各种鸟不少，海鹦鹉很小，飞得又快，既是用了长镜头，由于水平有限，今天的照片不能和两年前的照片相比的，差一段距离，但也算碰上冰岛最可爱的动物了。

晚饭是超市里买的烤五花肉和冰岛传统羊肉汤。羊肉汤一点羊肉腥都没有，很好喝，早知道就多该尝试几次。难得的好天气，饭后去海边散步，再补上几个景点。

Golden Circle 黄金圈游

June 25: We joined the Golden Circle tour from a local tour company booked through Viator. While glaciers shaped yesterday's sights, today's destinations were all related to volcanic eruptions and geothermal activity. Unfortunately, with constant rain and strong winds, today's weather wasn't favorable. The significant advantage of joining a guided tour is that we leave the driving to someone else, especially on long journeys and bad weather days.

Like yesterday's tour, we gathered at bus stop #12, where a large bus came to pick us up. Arriving at a parking lot near a gas station in the city, the passengers on the bus either remained on the same bus or switched to a different one, depending on their itineraries. Fortunately, in both cases, the bus that picked us up was the right one for our tour, so we did not need to change buses.

Our first destination was the stunning Thingvellir National Park, where we walked through a narrow valley leading to the birthplace of the Icelandic parliament, known as the Althing. The Althing is the world's oldest parliament, dating back over a thousand years. In those ancient times, the Icelanders gathered here annually to establish their self-governing regulations, resisting being ruled by the Danish crown, which was later abolished by decree. As we strolled through the valley, we also had the incredible opportunity to witness the ongoing geological marvel of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. This geological boundary separates the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates, gradually drifting apart at a rate of two centimeters per year. The cliffs flanking either side of the valley, with different elevations, are tangible evidence of this real-time separation of the tectonic plates. The park's beauty was captivating, with its majestic mountains, serene lakes, majestic waterfalls, and rich historical significance. It is undoubtedly a must-visit destination in Iceland, offering an unforgettable experience for all who venture there. The disadvantage of joining a guided tour was that we only had limited time at each sight, which was not enough for the beautiful Thingvellir National Park.

Arriving at the Strokkur Geyser, besides the geyser viewing, this was also our lunch spot. We decided to have lunch first at the café, which was bustling with fellow travelers. Once we were fueled up, we eagerly awaited the geyser's eruption. Strokkur did not disappoint; it put on a mesmerizing display, sending boiling water columns shooting several meters high into the air every 5 to 10 minutes. We even fortunately had witnessed a double eruption, to our delight. The sight was truly impressive, captivating everyone present. However, despite its awe-inspiring nature, Strokkur couldn't quite match the grandeur and size of the geysers found in Yellowstone National Park. Nevertheless, experiencing the natural spectacle of Strokkur was undoubtedly one of the day's highlights, leaving us in awe of the mighty forces at play in this geothermal wonderland.

Continuing our journey, we proceeded to another renowned site, the magnificent Gullfoss waterfall. This natural wonder is a two-tiered waterfall boasting a powerful flow that gracefully descends into a canyon, creating a truly breathtaking spectacle. To fully appreciate its beauty, we ventured down a flight of stairs to catch a closer glimpse of the lower tier, but in doing so, we couldn't escape the refreshing mist from the cascading water. The experience was invigorating. On the other hand, the path to view the upper tier was much easier to navigate, offering a flat and accessible vantage point to witness the waterfall's grandeur. Gullfoss left us in awe of nature's prowess and provided another unforgettable moment in this extraordinary Icelandic adventure.

Our final destination on the Golden Circle route for the day was the Kerid Crater, a volcanic crater lake. Unfortunately, the weather was unfavorable, rainy and windy. However, we still took the opportunity to walk around the rim, marveling at the impressive geological formation and the serene lake at its center. Despite being unable to walk down to the bottom of the crater and explore the crater fully, we appreciated the unique beauty of Kerid and were content with the experience.

After returning from the Golden Circle tour, we rested a little at the apartment, had a quick dinner, and went out again. Tonight, we attended a famous Icelandic stand-up comedy show called "How to Become an Icelander in 60 Minutes" at the HARPA Concert Hall. It was a hilarious and light-hearted way to end this challenging day.

6/25: 今天跟着当地的旅游团走了冰岛另一条热门线路-黄金圈。昨天的景色都是由冰川造成的，那么今天所去的地方都是与火山爆发和地热有关的。天公不作美,今天又是整天刮风下雨。跟团游的最大好处是把开车的事交给他人了，尤其是当路途遥远且天气糟糕的时候。

首先来到辛格维利尔国家公园 (Thingvellir National Park), 走进通往冰岛议会诞生地的狭谷。一千多年前，不愿意听从挪威国王统治，在那里冰岛人开始一年一度集会，制定自治法规。走在狭谷中也目睹正在进行中的大西洋中部裂谷的地理过程，欧亚板块和北美板块正在以每年二厘米速度分离，狭谷两边的高低不同悬崖峭𤩹位于不同的板块上，是板块分离的见证。公园很漂亮，有山，有水，有瀑布，有历史，是一个应该慢游的地方。

第二个景点是盖歇尔地热区(Geysir)，其中最为活跃的史托克喷泉（Strokkur)每隔5～10分钟就喷发一道沸腾的水柱，高达几十米，场面颇为壮观。但比我们黄石公园的差远了。

接下来我们来到的是另一个著名的景点-黄金瀑布(Gullfoss）。这是一个双层的瀑布，水流非常急，最终流入峡谷，极其壮观。看下层的瀑布需要往下走一段台阶，同时也会被飞流直下的水气淋湿。去看上面那层瀑布的路就很平坦。

今天黄金圈线路的最后一个景点是火山口湖（Kerid Crater）。可以沿着火山口走一圈再走到火山口下面的湖边，但今天风雨交加，我们俩只是沿着火山口走了一圈，没下到火山底。

黄金圈回来后，回公寓稍微休息一下，吃个晚饭又外出了。今晚去哈帕音乐厅看著名的冰岛脱口秀-怎么在60分钟内学会做冰岛人，这脱口秀已上演了十年了。捧腹大笑轻松一下，给这辛苦的一天有个完美的结局。