Going Home 回家

June 27-28: We said goodbye to Reykjavik today and flew to New York City. Since both of our kids live in New York City, we made a short stop to visit them for a couple of days. It was our third time coming to New York City in less than a year, so we didn't go anyway or do anything this time; we just stayed at our daughter's apartment and relaxed. The four of us had an excellent BBQ on her building's outdoor terrace under perfect summer weather.

June 29: It's been an incredible journey since we departed from Phoenix on March 30th. Over three months, we traversed seven countries and regions(1) and explored twenty-five captivating cities and towns(2). As we ventured around the globe, our travels encompassed various modes of transportation, including planes, trains, cruise ships, and buses.

Today, we're back in Phoenix, marking the end of an extraordinary adventure. We've experienced countless firsts, encountered diverse cultures, and gained valuable insights, enriching our perspectives.

Reflecting on the past three months, we're grateful for this exploration that pushed our comfort zones. Each new destination brought wonders and challenges, fostering personal growth and cherished memories. The most heartwarming moment was reuniting with our family in Shanghai after three and a half years, filling our hearts with joy and anticipation.

The world is vast, time is limited, but the memories and experiences from this voyage will forever be etched in our hearts. As we return home, we carry a treasure trove of lessons and gratitude for this life-changing adventure.

The list of countries and places visited:

(1) South Korea, China Taiwan, China, United Arab Emirates, Norway, Sweden, and Iceland.

(2) Seoul, Andong, Busan, Gyeongju, Jeonju, Taipei, Shanghai, Zhenjiang, Yangzhou, Ningbo, Shaoxing, Dubai, Oslo, Stockholm, Narvik, Tromso, Harstad, Hammerfest, Alta, Honningsvag, Longyearbyen (Svalbard), Akureyri, Isafjordur, Reykjavik, New York City.

自3月30号离开凤凰城后，历经七个国家和地区（1），停留二十五城镇(2），乘坐飞机、火车、游轮和大巴环绕地球一圈后终于在6月29号又回到凤凰城。在这整整三个月的旅行中，我们经历了无数个我们人生中的第一次，见了很多也学到了很多。深感欣慰能够有机会走出去看看，体验一下不同的文化，挑战一下自已。当然最为高兴的是在三年半后又重返上海与家人团聚。

世界很大，时间有限，且行且珍惜。

(1) 韩国、台湾、中国、阿联酋、挪威、瑞典和冰岛

(2) 首尔、安东、釜山、庆州、全州、台北、上海、镇江、杨州、宁波、绍兴、迪拜（Dubai）、奥斯陆（Oslo）、斯德哥尔摩（Stockholm）、Narvik、Tromso、Harstad 、Hammerfest 、Alta、Honningsvag、Longyearbyen（Svalbard)、阿克雷里（Akureyri）、伊萨菲约杜尔（Isafjordur）、雷克雅未克（Reykjavik）、纽约市 (New York City)

Puffins and Reykjavik 海鸚鵡和雷克雅未克

June 26: After two long guided tours in the past two days, we decided to take it easy and enjoy a more relaxed pace today. We allowed ourselves to sleep in a bit, enjoying the comfort of our accommodations. Upon waking up, we were pleased to find that the weather was fair, with occasional glimpses of sunlight peeking through the clouds, and it got much better later in the day.

Reykjavik is the capital and largest city of Iceland. There are many things to see and do. We visited a few attractions on the first day we arrived and would catch up with the rest today. After a delightful breakfast, we explored the City Hall and the Parliament House. Following our visit, we leisurely strolled around a charming small lake near the City Hall, enjoying the serene surroundings and the tranquil atmosphere. It was a pleasant and laid-back morning, allowing us to unwind and savor the beauty of Reykjavik at our own pace.

Believe it or not, Icelandic hot dog is a popular food in Iceland. We heard about the famous hot dog vendor that boasted of serving the best hot dogs in town, and true to the claim, there were long queues of eager customers lining up in front of the stall. Connie reminisced that just two years ago, no one was in line at that spot, and she even had photographic evidence to back it up. The pandemic has indeed brought about significant changes in tourism and visitor patterns. Despite the allure of the famous vendor, we didn't want to wait in a long line for a hot dog and opted for a hot dog from a nearby small shop. The hot dog was undeniably tasty, yet we couldn't help but feel it fell short of justifying its five-dollar price tag. Nevertheless, the experience allowed us to savor a popular Icelandic food. These little moments of exploration often leave the most lasting impressions during our travels.

Apart from hot dogs, Icelandic fish and chips are also a must-try. So, we went to another famous shop across the street from our apartment and shared one fish and chips. Over the past few days in Iceland, we've had fish and chips multiple times, and this place served a tasty version, one of the best. After paying, they even gave us two pieces of chocolate cookies as a bonus.

The street murals in Reykjavik, Iceland, elevated the city's lively artistic vibe. As we roamed the streets, we spontaneously snapped photos of these mesmerizing artworks. They provided a striking contrast to the meticulously regulated house paint in the HOA-governed neighborhoods where we reside.

One thing we hadn't done in Iceland so far was see puffins. Connie brought back many beautiful photos of adorable puffins two years ago, and this time, Chenggang hoped to see them in person. We did not get a chance to go on the puffin tour when our cruise ship stopped at Isafjordur a few days ago. There is a small island outside Reykjavik known for puffin watching, but the weather had been terrible in the past few days, and the boats couldn't go out. Finally, the sky cleared up, and the wind subsided this afternoon, and Chenggang quickly booked the last available spot.

After a delightful fifteen-minute ride, the boat arrived at the protected island near the city. Passengers could not disembark on the island due to its conservation status. Instead, everybody remained on the boat, eagerly observing the diverse birds inhabiting the area, including the adorable and agile puffins. With a long lens, Chenggang captured their charm and grace in photographs. He took snapshots of the puffins in flight, expertly clutching fish in their mouths, and some captivating close-ups of the puffins gracefully gliding across the sea. The encounter with these charming creatures undoubtedly became a highlight of the day, filling him with joy and leaving him with cherished memories of this enchanting island adventure.

We opted for a delicious dinner from the supermarket, enjoying roasted pork belly and traditional Icelandic lamb soup. The lamb soup was a delightful surprise, as it was incredibly flavorful without any gamey taste, leaving us wishing we had tried it more often during our stay.

After a satisfying meal, we took advantage of the rare good weather and went for a leisurely stroll along the picturesque seaside. Along the way, we visited and revisited a few more attractions. It was the perfect way to end the day and our long journey, immersing ourselves in the serene surroundings and soaking in the tranquil atmosphere, making the most of our time and creating lasting memories of our incredible time in Iceland.

It's time to go home.

6/26: 今天没什么大安排，睡了个懒觉。起床后，发现今天天气还可以，不能说是大晴天，但太阳时常会露面一会儿。早餐后，去市政府楼和议会大楼那里看看，环绕着市政府楼边的小湖走了一圈。

都说来冰岛要尝一下冰岛热狗，号称是这里最好热狗的网红小贩的亭子前排着长队，佩民说二年前亭子前一个人都没有，有照片为证，都是疫情惹的祸。我们今天就不凑这个热闹，而是在旁边一家小店里要了个热狗。味道还不错，但怎么也不值五美金。

除了热狗，冰岛的炸鱼块和薯条也是必须要尝的。接着我们来到公寓对面的另一网红店俩人分享了一份炸鱼块和薯条。其实来冰岛这几天炸鱼块和薯条已经吃了好几次，今天的这家网红店味道的确不错，付款后还给了二块巧克力饼干。

回房休息一会儿后，天气转晴，风也小下来了。来冰岛后，还有一事没做成-看海鸚鵡。佩民二年前带回许多漂亮可爱海鹦鹉的照片，这次来冰岛就一直希望也能亲眼目睹。Reykjavik 外面有一个小岛是看海鹦鹉的好地方，前几天的天气实在太糟糕，船都不能出海，今天下午总算是云开雾散，赶紧订票抢了最后一个名额。

乘坐小船十五分钟后来到城市不远的小岛边，小岛受保护的，不能上岛，只能远远停在海上观望，岛上各种鸟不少，海鹦鹉很小，飞得又快，既是用了长镜头，由于水平有限，今天的照片不能和两年前的照片相比的，差一段距离，但也算碰上冰岛最可爱的动物了。

晚饭是超市里买的烤五花肉和冰岛传统羊肉汤。羊肉汤一点羊肉腥都没有，很好喝，早知道就多该尝试几次。难得的好天气，饭后去海边散步，再补上几个景点。

Golden Circle 黄金圈游

June 25: We joined the Golden Circle tour from a local tour company booked through Viator. While glaciers shaped yesterday's sights, today's destinations were all related to volcanic eruptions and geothermal activity. Unfortunately, with constant rain and strong winds, today's weather wasn't favorable. The significant advantage of joining a guided tour is that we leave the driving to someone else, especially on long journeys and bad weather days.

Like yesterday's tour, we gathered at bus stop #12, where a large bus came to pick us up. Arriving at a parking lot near a gas station in the city, the passengers on the bus either remained on the same bus or switched to a different one, depending on their itineraries. Fortunately, in both cases, the bus that picked us up was the right one for our tour, so we did not need to change buses.

Our first destination was the stunning Thingvellir National Park, where we walked through a narrow valley leading to the birthplace of the Icelandic parliament, known as the Althing. The Althing is the world's oldest parliament, dating back over a thousand years. In those ancient times, the Icelanders gathered here annually to establish their self-governing regulations, resisting being ruled by the Danish crown, which was later abolished by decree. As we strolled through the valley, we also had the incredible opportunity to witness the ongoing geological marvel of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. This geological boundary separates the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates, gradually drifting apart at a rate of two centimeters per year. The cliffs flanking either side of the valley, with different elevations, are tangible evidence of this real-time separation of the tectonic plates. The park's beauty was captivating, with its majestic mountains, serene lakes, majestic waterfalls, and rich historical significance. It is undoubtedly a must-visit destination in Iceland, offering an unforgettable experience for all who venture there. The disadvantage of joining a guided tour was that we only had limited time at each sight, which was not enough for the beautiful Thingvellir National Park.

Arriving at the Strokkur Geyser, besides the geyser viewing, this was also our lunch spot. We decided to have lunch first at the café, which was bustling with fellow travelers. Once we were fueled up, we eagerly awaited the geyser's eruption. Strokkur did not disappoint; it put on a mesmerizing display, sending boiling water columns shooting several meters high into the air every 5 to 10 minutes. We even fortunately had witnessed a double eruption, to our delight. The sight was truly impressive, captivating everyone present. However, despite its awe-inspiring nature, Strokkur couldn't quite match the grandeur and size of the geysers found in Yellowstone National Park. Nevertheless, experiencing the natural spectacle of Strokkur was undoubtedly one of the day's highlights, leaving us in awe of the mighty forces at play in this geothermal wonderland.

Continuing our journey, we proceeded to another renowned site, the magnificent Gullfoss waterfall. This natural wonder is a two-tiered waterfall boasting a powerful flow that gracefully descends into a canyon, creating a truly breathtaking spectacle. To fully appreciate its beauty, we ventured down a flight of stairs to catch a closer glimpse of the lower tier, but in doing so, we couldn't escape the refreshing mist from the cascading water. The experience was invigorating. On the other hand, the path to view the upper tier was much easier to navigate, offering a flat and accessible vantage point to witness the waterfall's grandeur. Gullfoss left us in awe of nature's prowess and provided another unforgettable moment in this extraordinary Icelandic adventure.

Our final destination on the Golden Circle route for the day was the Kerid Crater, a volcanic crater lake. Unfortunately, the weather was unfavorable, rainy and windy. However, we still took the opportunity to walk around the rim, marveling at the impressive geological formation and the serene lake at its center. Despite being unable to walk down to the bottom of the crater and explore the crater fully, we appreciated the unique beauty of Kerid and were content with the experience.

After returning from the Golden Circle tour, we rested a little at the apartment, had a quick dinner, and went out again. Tonight, we attended a famous Icelandic stand-up comedy show called "How to Become an Icelander in 60 Minutes" at the HARPA Concert Hall. It was a hilarious and light-hearted way to end this challenging day.

6/25: 今天跟着当地的旅游团走了冰岛另一条热门线路-黄金圈。昨天的景色都是由冰川造成的，那么今天所去的地方都是与火山爆发和地热有关的。天公不作美,今天又是整天刮风下雨。跟团游的最大好处是把开车的事交给他人了，尤其是当路途遥远且天气糟糕的时候。

首先来到辛格维利尔国家公园 (Thingvellir National Park), 走进通往冰岛议会诞生地的狭谷。一千多年前，不愿意听从挪威国王统治，在那里冰岛人开始一年一度集会，制定自治法规。走在狭谷中也目睹正在进行中的大西洋中部裂谷的地理过程，欧亚板块和北美板块正在以每年二厘米速度分离，狭谷两边的高低不同悬崖峭𤩹位于不同的板块上，是板块分离的见证。公园很漂亮，有山，有水，有瀑布，有历史，是一个应该慢游的地方。

第二个景点是盖歇尔地热区(Geysir)，其中最为活跃的史托克喷泉（Strokkur)每隔5～10分钟就喷发一道沸腾的水柱，高达几十米，场面颇为壮观。但比我们黄石公园的差远了。

接下来我们来到的是另一个著名的景点-黄金瀑布(Gullfoss）。这是一个双层的瀑布，水流非常急，最终流入峡谷，极其壮观。看下层的瀑布需要往下走一段台阶，同时也会被飞流直下的水气淋湿。去看上面那层瀑布的路就很平坦。

今天黄金圈线路的最后一个景点是火山口湖（Kerid Crater）。可以沿着火山口走一圈再走到火山口下面的湖边，但今天风雨交加，我们俩只是沿着火山口走了一圈，没下到火山底。

黄金圈回来后，回公寓稍微休息一下，吃个晚饭又外出了。今晚去哈帕音乐厅看著名的冰岛脱口秀-怎么在60分钟内学会做冰岛人，这脱口秀已上演了十年了。捧腹大笑轻松一下，给这辛苦的一天有个完美的结局。

South Iceland 冰岛南部

Today, we joined the South Iceland tour through Viator to explore the southern coast, visiting glaciers, waterfalls, and black sand beaches. Iceland's ever-changing weather had taught us not to be fooled by the clear blue skies in the morning, so we brought our raincoats and warm jackets whenever we ventured out. We walked to the Bus Stop #12 in the morning. A pickup bus collected the eagerly waiting tourists at the bus stop, transporting us to a gas station on the city's outskirts. Over there, tourists went to their designated destination buses. Fortunately, the pickup bus was also our tour bus, so we didn’t have to get off the bus. During the journey, the bus made three stops for breakfast and restroom breaks, which felt somewhat redundant.

First, we arrived at Skogafoss, a majestic waterfall with cascading waters, often creating rainbows when the sunlight hits the spray. The land below was relatively flat, allowing visitors to approach the water curtain of the waterfall, but the mist required raincoats to stay dry. Climbing the 465 steps to the top of the waterfall was a bit tiring, but the effort was rewarded with a breathtaking view of the unique landscape of Iceland's southern coast, especially when the weather was great. According to Connie, there were only a few tourists, and taking photos was a breeze two years ago when she visited here. However, today, it was a long line of people winding up the stairs.

Leaving the waterfall, we reached the black sand beach. Connie still vividly remembered being almost blown away by the wind during their last visit two years ago. Today's weather at the black sand beach was even worse with the fierce winds and pouring rain. Our tour guide repeatedly emphasized that we should not touch the seawater, which could be extremely dangerous. Braving the elements, we managed to walk along the beach and take a few photos at the foot of the mountains before returning to the bus, completely soaked despite our raincoats.

Our third destination of the day was the magnificent Solheimajokull Glacier. Hiking on the glacier required the expertise of a specialized guide, which our tour did not include. We admired the breathtaking views from the glacier's edge before proceeding to our next destination.

Our final stop for the day was the renowned Seljalandsfoss, one of Iceland's most famous waterfalls. This tall waterfall created a mesmerizing curtain of water. What made it truly special was the pathway that allowed visitors to walk behind the waterfall, providing a unique and thrilling perspective. However, venturing through the waterfall meant being enveloped in a refreshing mist, impossible to stay dry. Although we were soaked, the experience of being so close to this natural wonder was genuinely unforgettable.

As the bus returned to the city, the surroundings were shrouded in dense fog, significantly reducing visibility on a particular stretch of the road. Fortunately, we were not responsible for driving, allowing us to relax and even nap on the bus. Our journey had begun at eight in the morning and stretched until seven in the evening.

For dinner, we prepared a delicious tomato mushroom egg drop soup, bacon stir-fried cabbage, roasted chicken wings, and some grilled pork belly bought from the supermarket. As always, homemade dishes tasted wonderful.

6/24：大清早公寓门口的彩虹街没游客非常安静。今天参加当地旅游团去南岸看冰川，瀑布和黑沙滩。都说冰岛的天气变化莫测，千万不可让早晨看见的蓝天白云给蒙骗了，每天出门必备雨衣，羽绒服。今天上午出门时天气还算帮忙，我们先来到斯可加瀑布（Skogafoss），这个瀑布非常高，水冲击地面溅起的水花在阳光下常常能看到彩虹。下面的陆地很平坦，游客能走到瀑布的水帘附近，但一定要有雨衣。沿阶梯可以走到瀑布的顶端，465级台阶走上去虽有点累但值得，在上面能俯瞰冰岛南岸特有的地貌。佩民二年前来这里时游客稀少，照片随便拍，而今天爬阶梯都是弯弯扭扭一条长龙。

离开瀑布来到了黑沙滩，佩民对二年前来黑沙滩时人都要被吹走的经历记忆非常深刻。而今天这里的天气更糟糕，来到海边时狂风暴雨，导游一再强调绝对不能碰海水，会有去无回的。顶着大风大雨在沙滩上走一走来到山脚下拍几张照片，雨衣根本挡不住雨水，全身湿漉漉的回到大巴。

今天第三个景点是冰川（Solheimajokull Glacier），徒步上冰川必须有专门的向导带领，我们只是走到冰川边上饱饱眼福之后就赶往下一个景点。

塞里雅兰瀑布(Seljalandsfoss)，也许是冰岛最著名的瀑布之一。瀑布很高，像水帘洞，最大特点是游客可以沿着水帘后面的通道走到瀑布的后面，从里看外感觉很不一样。穿越瀑布时被水气溅湿是绝对的。反正今天一整天是湿了又湿。

大巴往返城市里时，又是大雾笼罩，有一段路的能见度相当低，幸好我们不用自己开车，还能在车上打瞌睡。早上八点上的大巴晚上七点才回到住宿。番茄蘑菇蛋花汤，培根炒白菜，加上烤鸡翅膀和超市买的烤五花肉，自己做的菜味道总是好吃。

Disembarked at Reykjavik 下船了

June 23: Our 12-day cruise to Norway and Iceland, exploring the Arctic Circle, came to an end. At 6 in the morning, our ship arrived promptly at the Reykjavík harbor. Before disembarking, we had our last breakfast at the Garden Cafe. Throughout the cruise, we had breakfast in the buffet restaurant every morning - mainly because of the variety of choices and the chance to chat with other travelers. However, this leg of the cruise was full, making it sometimes challenging to find a table. We would occasionally share a table with fellow passengers. 

At 8:30 am, we disembarked and took the complimentary shuttle to the city center. From there, we went directly to the apartment we had booked for our stay. Since check-in was not until three in the afternoon, we stored our luggage in a small storage room downstairs and headed to the nearby bookstore to have a cup of coffee and plan our upcoming days.

After having lunch at a Thai restaurant, we started exploring the city. Our first stop was Reykjavík's iconic landmark—the Hallgrímskirkja Church, also known as the "Rocket" Church. While entry to the church was free, accessing the observation tower required a ticket. The interior of the church was relatively simple, but its distinctive architecture was truly captivating.

Next, we checked off the fishbone sculpture by the waterfront, but the strong winds and waves prompted us to move on quickly. We then visited the Harpa Concert Hall and had the opportunity to attend a free concert performed by one of Iceland's most talented young pianists. This enchanting experience lasted for more than an hour.

After the concert, we checked into our apartment. The location of the apartment we booked was excellent, right on the colorful Rainbow Street in the heart of the city. From there, we could easily walk to the "Rocket" Church. The one-bedroom apartment was spacious and comfortable, complete with a kitchen. Since our apartment was on the top floor, from our room, we had a fantastic view of Rainbow Street leading towards the "Rocket" Church. We could even catch glimpses of the sea.

Once settled in, we went to the nearby supermarket to buy groceries. In the evening, we cooked our dinner and enjoyed a relaxing meal in the comfort of our home away from home.

6/23：12天的挪威，冰岛游轮游结束了。早上六点我们的船就已准时停靠在冰岛首都Reykjavík 船码头。下船前我们先去自助餐厅吃上最后一顿早餐。这次游轮上我们每天都在自助餐厅用早餐，一是选择性多一点，二是有机会与其他游客聊聊天。但这一程游轮游客特别多，常常要花些时间才能找到位子，有时实在不行只能与其他游客拼桌。

八点半我们下船，乘坐城市里提供的免费游船码头到市中心的专车，然后直接去了我们租订的公寓。因为入住要到下午三点，我们先把行李寄放在底层小行李房里，然后来到旁边的书店里喝杯咖啡，安排一下接下来几天的行程。

中午在泰国店吃过午餐后开始采点。首先来到Reykjavík 标志性建筑-哈尔格杯姆斯大教堂，也称“火箭＂大教堂。进教堂是免费的，但上观景钟楼则需要买票。教堂里面除了巨型管风琴外，其它比较简单，倒是教堂的外观更吸引人。

接着来到海边打卡鱼骨雕塑。风大浪大不能多呆，便来到哈帕音乐厅，正好碰上免费的音乐会，由冰岛最有才华的年轻钢琴家为大家演奏，整整一个多小时。

听完音乐会后，入住公寓。这次订的公寓位置相当好，就在市中心的彩虹街上，沿着街就可以直接走到“火箭＂大教堂。一房一厅的民宿舒适宽敞，带厨房。我们的房间在顶楼，从房间里就可以看到不远处的教堂，还能看到海。

Isafjordur, Iceland 伊萨菲约杜尔

June 22: This morning, the cruise ship tendered at the charming town of Isafjordur on the edge of Iceland's Westfjords. Since we did not sign up for any ship-organized tours, we got off the ship as soon as possible and went to the tourist office asking for the local puffin excursion info. Unfortunately, the excursion schedule did not fit our ship's departure time because the small island for the puffin sightseeing was too far. So we decided to explore the town by ourselves.

There was this very nice hiking trail on the edge of the city, and it was going up the hill. The abundant purple lupines, not native to Iceland, were in full bloom along the trail and all over the mountain. They were initially introduced in the early 20th century as a way to combat soil erosion and improve soil fertility. However, they have since become invasive in some areas of the country, particularly in Iceland's southern and western regions. While lupines can add a beautiful splash of color to the landscape, they remind us of the consequence of human introduction to the ecosystem. We enjoyed hiking up the hill in the morning.

Under the clear, sunny skies of Isafjordur, the view from the mountain's summit was nothing short of spectacular. We were greeted by a breathtaking panoramic vista that stretched out before us as we reached the top. Below, the picturesque town of Isafjordur is nestled amidst the surrounding fjords, its colorful buildings standing out against the dramatic backdrop of the soaring hills. The vibrant hues of the hills painted a mesmerizing contrast to the deep blue waters of the fjord, creating a scene that was nothing short of awe-inspiring. It was a moment that etched the beauty of Isafjordur and its natural surroundings deep into our memories.

Later in the afternoon, we strolled through the town center. Despite being a small town with just a few narrow streets for its population of fewer than three thousand people, the city center was well laid out with bus stops, bicycle lanes, and pedestrian paths. The houses facing the narrow bay were beautifully painted, creating a picturesque scene.

As evening approached, the ship set sail from Isafjordur, heading towards Iceland's capital, Reykjavík, which would also be our final destination for the cruise. It has been a while since we left home; it's time to return.

6/22: 今天游船停靠冰岛西峡湾边上的小城 - Isafjordur，我们没有参加任何组团活动。上午爬山看了一下满山的鲁冰花，下午再去城中心转了一圈。只有三千人不到的小城中心其实就几条小马路，但有公交和自行车／徒步专道，面朝狭湾的小房都油漆的漂漂亮亮。

船傍晚就起航离开这里，前往冰岛首都Reykjavík ，那里也将是我们游船的终点站。离家已经很久了，该回家了。

Akureyri, Iceland 阿克雷里

June 21: We bid farewell to the Svalbard islands two days ago, leaving the Arctic behind as we said goodbye to Norway. After two days at sea, our ship arrived in Akureyri, a city in northern Iceland and the second-largest city in the country.

For Connie, this was a return visit to a familiar place as she spent almost three weeks circling the entire island two years ago. It was a new country for Chenggang, so in the morning, he joined a shore excursion organized by the ship to visit the famous Godafoss waterfall, one of the most popular tourist attractions.

Connie skipped the tour since she had already seen the place. Instead, she took a local bus, free of charge for everyone, to visit the museums and the Botanical Garden by herself.

After a quick 45-minute stop at the waterfall, the excursion tour bus came to the botanical garden. Instead of returning to the ship with the tour bus, Chenggang chose to stay in the park, where he enjoyed a cup of coffee and delicious sweets with Connie at the garden's cafe. We shared the table with a couple from Washington State, our fellow cruise passengers, and had a delightful chat and exchanged travel stories for over an hour.

After some rest on the ship, we got off the ship again in the afternoon and walked over five kilometers to explore the old town. Akureyri's Old Town is a charming historic district near the city center. It is characterized by its well-preserved wooden buildings, colorful houses, and cobblestone streets, giving visitors a glimpse into the city's past. The old seafront houses, once situated on the coast, have now recessed away from the water due to coastal land reclamation. The changes have been quite significant over the past one or two centuries. Posts with old pictures illustrated the changes over the years installed at several locations in front of the historic buildings. We thought those were informative and interesting. Walking through this area, visitors can admire the unique architecture and learn about the city's rich history.

The city center exudes a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, with a mix of boutique shops, galleries, cafes, and restaurants lining its narrow streets. It is a delightful place to explore, offering a blend of culture, tradition, and modernity.

After dinner, the ship slowly departed from Akureyri. We then attended a singing and dancing show. As the show concluded, the ship's crew and officers graced the stage to greet the passengers. When the "washing, washing" girl, armed with her sanitizing bottle, took to the stage, the audience erupted in laughter and heartfelt applause, appreciating her dedicated and meticulous efforts to ensure our health and safety. Undoubtedly, she was the ship's most famous and funniest crew member.

The improved weather conditions led to clear skies, and the sea was relatively calm, with no significant roughness. Whales frequently appeared in the area, so we spent some time on our balcony, hoping for a sighting.

Deep in the night, the radiant sun clung to the horizon, defying its descent, creating the illusion that the Earth stood still. It was a breathtaking sight. To our amazement, numerous whales frolicked gracefully in the sea bathed in golden sunlight, and we beheld the spectacle of whales spouting what seemed like "fire." We eagerly observed and captured photographs from our balcony for almost two awe-inspiring hours until half past one in the morning before eventually retiring to sleep.

6/21: 离开北极的Svalbard岛屿，也和挪威说再见。经过二天的海上航行，我们的船来到冰岛北部的Akureyri市。因为佩民二年前来过此地，对她来说算是故地重游。早晨成刚一人就跟团去了著名的众神瀑布，瀑布那里游客特别多，待了四十五分钟大巴就匆匆离开来到植物园。 成刚正好与独自一人自由行也来到植物园的佩民会合。

回船稍微休息之后，下午我们再次下船，走了五公里多，主要看看老城区。以前的海景房因为填海造地现在都远离海岸，看来一，二百年来变化还是很大的。总的感觉是城市虽小，博物馆，花园，老城区，新市区都不大，但环境优美。城市还有免费的环城公交，为游客提供方便。

晚餐后船慢慢离开Akureyri市，天气逐渐变晴，浪也不大。听说鲸鱼常常出没这个海域，整个晚上我们时而在房间的阳台上碰碰运气，希望能有收获。

半夜时分，金灿灿的太阳停留在海平面上不会消失，就像地球停止转动一样，漂亮极了。更为惊喜的是在金色阳光下，无数鲸鱼游戏在海上，我们目睹了鲸鱼喷"火”的壮观景象。二人在阳台上忙活了二个小时到早上一点半才睡下。

Longyearbyen, Svalbard (Lat. 78.22 deg) 北纬78.22度

June 18: The day we had eagerly anticipated had finally arrived. After visiting the Antarctic, we had always yearned to explore the Arctic as well. Longyearbyen, located on the Svalbard islands, was the closest inhabited town to the North Pole and a place frequented by polar bears. Legends and tales of mysteries shrouded this remote town, where polar bears were said to outnumber human residents. Stories circulated about the need to carry rifles when going out, elderly or terminally ill people being required to leave to avoid dying on the island, and childbirths necessitating a return to the mainland due to limited medical facilities. The image of Longyearbyen in our minds was of a sparsely populated Arctic town covered in pristine snow, and visiting there filled us with a sense of adventure.

Beyond the polar bears, Svalbard was also known for its walrus sightings. Although our booked ship excursion to observe walruses had been canceled, we searched the internet for local alternatives. Unfortunately, most tours were fully booked, leaving us to wait and see what opportunities awaited upon our arrival.

The ship docked at nine in the morning, and we hurriedly got off. Fortuitously, we came across a 16-person tourist minivan with three available seats, and we quickly hopped on. The driver, also our guide, took us on a tour around the town and its surroundings. We learned that coal mining was a significant industry besides tourism in Longyearbyen, as the coal deposits here were of exceptional purity. Due to the heavy fog that day, the scenic beauty of the valleys remained obscured during our journey up the mountains.

Our guide also showed us the church and a dog yard where huskies were kept. Yet, the highlight of our trip was the Global Seed Vault, where seeds of major crops from all over the world were stored. This facility was a safeguard in emergencies or global disasters and had already been used twice. Before this visit, we had never heard of such an international seed bank, and we now recognized the importance of such a repository, especially after the COVID-19 pandemic.

After the three-hour tour, our overall impression was that Longyearbyen resembled an antiquated mining town with hardly a trace of polar bears, at least in the area we visited. It lacked the allure and charm of the quaint fishing villages in Northern Norway, but perhaps visiting during winter would offer a different perspective.

After lunch on the ship, we prepared to explore the town center. As we walked out of the ship's dock, we noticed many tourists waiting to board the yachts next to us. These tourists had booked their excursions from local agencies months in advance, and naturally, all spots were taken. However, we didn't lose hope and patiently waited for last-minute opportunities. To our surprise, we managed to secure a place on one of the yachts. The excursion took us to the other side of the bay to observe the glaciers. There, we had the pleasure of sighting numerous walruses and seabirds. This yacht excursion was quite similar to the one we had booked on the ship, yet the price of our two tickets was lower than what one person had paid on the ship. As the saying goes, when one door closes, another one opens. The four-hour glacier and walrus excursion was genuinely worthwhile.

Today, we consider ourselves incredibly fortunate to have the chance to participate in two local excursions. Our only regret was not being able to see the polar bears, but perhaps we would have to venture to even more northern regions on a future expedition.

6/18: 北纬78.22度(Longyearbyen)

梦想已久的一天终于到来了。自从去过南极后，一直想到北极转转。在Svalbard 岛屿上的Longyearbyen 是离北极最近的可居住的小镇，北极熊常常出没的地方。据说在岛上的北极熊比常住居民还多，各种传说给这个遥远的小镇披上了神秘的面纱。什么外出必须带长枪， 老年人或有不治之症的人必须离开，不能死在岛上。因为医疗条件差，生育也必须回到大陆去。想像中的Longyearbyen 镇是人烟稀少白雪覆盖的北极小镇，去那里有一种探险的感觉。

除了北极熊之外，Svalbard岛屿也是海象出没的地方。自从游轮把我们订的出海看海象游取消后，我们开始在网上寻找当地的旅游项目，但是绝大多数项目都满客了，我们只能到达之后见机行事。

早晨九点船靠码头，我们匆匆下船，正好碰上一辆16人旅游面包车还有三个空位，我们赶紧上车。司机兼导游带着我们在小镇周围山上山下兜了一圈。除了旅游业外，煤矿是他们主要工业，这里煤矿石是非常纯的，导游带我们看了几个煤矿。因为今天雾很大，上山后看不到山谷的美景。又带我们去看了教堂和养哈士奇狗的地方。对我们来说，最有意思的是全球种子保存库，世界各地都将一些主要农作物的种子存放在那里。在紧急情况下或全球大灾难时，可以取回存放在那里的种子，据说已用过2次。之前从来没听说过有这个全球粮食种子库的事，现在想想还真应该有这样的保存库。三个小时一圈下来总的感觉是Longyearbyen就像一个陈旧的矿镇，北极熊的影子都没有。小镇远没有北挪威小渔村那种美丽魅力，也许冬天来这里会有不同感受。

回船吃午餐后，准备去镇中心看看。走出船码头后看到不少游客正在等待上旁边的游艇，他们都是几个月前就订好的，当然船已订满了。但是我们不放弃，希望有人没来，我们耐心地等待着，最后还真的让我们上船了。游艇带着我们去海湾对面的冰川。在那里，看到了不少海象和海雀。这个游艇的行程与我们在船上订的很相似，但我们俩人的船票却比我们在船上订的最后被取消的一个人的价钱还便宜，正是常说一扇门关了说不定另一扇门就开了。这四个小时冰川和海象游是非常值得。

今天我们算是非常幸运的，能够有机会参与二个当地的旅游项目。这次唯一的遗憾是没看到北极熊，也许下次再来要坐探险船去更北的地方。

North Cape (Lat. 71.15 deg) and at Sea 北纬71.15度

June 16: We woke up to find our ship had docked in the small town of Honningsvåg, the northernmost town on the Norwegian mainland. Although the town is small, it is a popular stop for many ships touring the Arctic Circle due to its proximity to the renowned North Cape. Honningsvåg also offered a unique treat – the chance to savor fresh Arctic king crab.

After breakfast, we got off the ship and headed to the tourist information center in the town to gather some insights before exploring. We purchased tickets for a local tour bus to take us to the North Cape at 11:15 am. It seemed that most visitors to this town had the same destination in mind.

Still having a few hours to spare, we explored the city, strolled along the seaside, and visited the city park. The quaint streets showcased typical Northern European charm with a church, a lighthouse, colorful fishing boats, and more, creating a picturesque Nordic fishing village setting.

The journey to North Cape wasn't too far, about forty minutes driving distance, revealing the distinct Arctic Circle landscape features along the way – vast and barren, occasionally spotting a few reindeer. Upon arriving at North Cape, we were surprised that the area was bustling with tourists. The parking lot was brimming with big tour buses, RVs, and private cars. The visitor center offered amenities like a restaurant, souvenir shops, and a cinema that continuously screens short films about the Arctic. Although an entrance fee was required to access the center, which our excursion tickets did include, no one checked at the entrance, relying solely on the visitors' honesty. We watched the short film and then proceeded to the park to capture memorable moments at several viewpoints, marking our visit to this iconic destination.

Returning to the town in the afternoon, we rushed to the restaurant for the king crab, which the staff at the tourist information center recommended. To our disappointment, the restaurant was closed. Back at the information center, the staff suggested another option, a Thai restaurant instead. On the way there, we ran into a helpful local who called a restaurant upon learning about our quest for king crab but found out they had run out of crab due to rough weather conditions at sea over the past few days. She then recommended the restaurant where she planned to have dinner that night, the one we visited earlier. We informed her that the restaurant was closed, but she didn't believe it and insisted on taking us there directly. It turned out that the restaurant just opened for business when we arrived, and we were so happy. Unfortunately, the restaurant informed us they had not received any king crab delivery from the Fishman for the last couple of days due to the bad weather. It was a stroke of bad luck, and we figured all the restaurants in town would run into the same problem, so we had to abandon the idea of having a king crab. We thanked the hospitality local for her help and returned to the ship for dinner.

After a satisfying dinner, we decided to explore a location known for its abundance of birds perched on the rocky shores, hoping to capture some beautiful bird pictures. On our way to the bird-watching spot, we passed by the Thai restaurant the tourist office had recommended. Curious, we peered through the window and saw the patrons inside happily relishing the king crab. The sight filled us with excitement, and we couldn't resist entering the restaurant to inquire about a table. The happiness was short-lived. Sadly, the restaurant had just sold out the last delectable crab dish. It seemed luck was not on our side today, and once again, we missed the opportunity to savor the king crab.

On the way back to the port by bus from the North Cape, we spotted fish-drying sheds on the roadside, capturing a quintessential scene of a Norwegian fishing village - drying fish bodies and fish heads. We were curious about them. Since it was near the cruise port, we decided to walk over there and closely examine them. The sheds were massive, a lot bigger than we expected. The fish bodies and heads were separated and dried by cold air and wind on wooden racks. We later learned that since the Viking age, Norwegians have dried fish outdoors in the fresh ocean wind to make stockfish. Now, this kind of dried fish is exported to all over the world.

As the white nights approached, the reindeer herds on the slopes by the bay slowly drifted off to sleep after satisfying their appetites. Our ship left the Norwegian mainland, continuing its journey deeper into the Arctic region.

June 17: The next destination, Longyearbyen, Svalbard, was a bit far, and we wouldn't arrive there until tomorrow. Since we boarded the ship, every day brought us to a new port, keeping us busy from morning till night. Finally, we had a full day at sea, a chance to sleep in, relax, enjoy food and drinks, and catch up on writing our travelogue for the past few days.

Before embarking on our Arctic journey, we assumed this cruise might be less crowded, given the remote location of the embarkation point in northern Norway. However, to our surprise, our assumptions were completely off the mark. Never before had we seen such a bustling cruise ship; finding a seat for breakfast turned into a delightful challenge. One noticeable presence was the significant number of passengers with Chinese heritage, just like us. Around 30% of the cruisers shared our ancestry, and most were in the same age group. It felt like we had stumbled upon a vibrant community of Shanghainese travelers, and the familiar sounds of the Shanghai dialect surrounded us. Over a few days cruising, we conversed with fellow Chinese descent passengers and exchanged stories of our travel experiences. It was fascinating to learn that everyone on board came from different parts of the world, each with compelling tales of adventure and exploration.

In the evening, we dined at another specialty restaurant - the French restaurant. The ambiance was delightful, and the dishes' presentation and taste were a step up from the main dining area. Since we liked the white wine Shades of Blue Riesling very much from our earlier onboard dining experience, we ordered another bottle tonight, intending to savor it over two occasions. After the sumptuous dinner, we watched a magic show.

Due to the chilly weather, we spent little time walking around the ship after boarding. Occasionally, we would step onto the balcony of our room to gaze at the sea, which was calm with occasional fog, and sometimes spot whales gracefully gliding through the waters and seabirds soaring through the skies as our travel companions, adding a touch of wonder and excitement to our Arctic voyage.

6/16: - 北纬71.15度（North Cape)。

早晨醒来船已停靠在挪威大陆最北的小镇Honningsvaag。镇很小，但许多走北极圈线路的船都会到此停留，因为从这个小镇可以去到著名的北角（North Cape）。小镇还有个特色是可以品尝到新鲜的北极帝王蟹。

早餐后我们先下船去镇上旅游信息中心了解一下情况，然后就在小镇上逛了一圈。教堂，灯塔，色彩鲜艳的捕鱼船等等，非常典型的一个北欧小渔村。

我们订了票随当地旅游大巴去North Cape. 来到这个小镇的游客估计绝大部分都会去North Cape。不是太远，开车四十几分钟就到了。沿途是北极圈特有的地貌特征，一片荒凉，偶尔能看到几只驯鹿。没想到的是North Cape 已经完全被游客占领了，停车场停满了大巴，RV和私车。游客中心有饭店，卖纪念品的小商店，还有一个影院不停地放映一个十几分钟关于北极的短片。进游客中心需要买门票，但并没人查票，完全靠自觉。我们先看短片，然后就是在几个景点拍照留念算是到此一游。

再坐大巴回到小镇时已是下午，我们直奔早上旅游信息中心工作人员推荐的吃帝王蟹的饭店而去，饭店没开，非常失望。又回到信息中心，工作人员又推荐了一家泰国店。在去泰国店的路上碰巧遇到一位热心的当地人，听说我们想吃帝王蟹，就打电话问一家店，回答说今天没有蟹。她又推荐一家她今晚在那里聚餐的饭店，我们说没开门，她不信，就直接把我们带到饭店去了。就二，三十分钟的样子，饭店倒的确是刚刚开始营业了，但老板说今天没有帝王蟹，因为前二天的风浪太大，渔民们没办法出海，也就没货送给饭店。那泰国店也不用去了，断了帝王蟹的念头，改去海边拍鸟。拍完照回船的路上走过这家泰国饭店，看见里面有人在吃蟹，赶紧进去却又被告知刚卖完了。真是阴错阳差，我们就是与北极帝王蟹没缘，乖乖回船吃饭去，但还是要感谢那位热心当地人的相助。

在回码头的大巴上，看到路边的晒鱼棚，饭后特意找到晒鱼棚，留下挪威小渔村一景：干晒鱼体，鱼头。

随着白夜来临，在海湾边山坡上的驯鹿群在＂酒足饭饱＂后渐渐入睡。我们的船也离开挪威大陆，继续深入北极。

6/17: 海上行

下一站有点远，明天才能到达。自上船以来，每天一个新港口，从早到晚都在忙，总算有一整天在海上航行，可以睡个懒觉，吃吃喝喝放松一下。同时也有时间补写一下几天的游记。

这次北极游开始之前，还以为我们的游轮可能会比较空，因为上船的地点是在挪威北部一个小地方。实在是太偏远，而且是去北极，一个不太寻常的地方。结果我们是大错特错了。从来没见过游轮上有这么多游客，吃早餐常常连位子都找不到。并且这次游轮上有很多我们的同胞，大概估计一下可能占30%，基本上以我们这个年龄段为主，而其中上海同乡非常之多，有时吃个饭前后左右听到的都是乡音。在船上待了几天，慢慢地开始与一些同胞同乡们聊上几句，大家来自世界各地，旅行经历一个比一个丰富。

今天晚上去了另一家特色餐厅-法国餐厅。环境不错，菜的摆盘和口感的确比大堂餐厅稍好一些。这次又要了一瓶白葡萄酒，还是和上次一样准备分二次享用。美酒佳肴之后再看一场魔术表演。

因为天比较冷，上船后我们几乎没怎么在船上绕船走。有时候会在房间的阳台上看看海，浪虽不大，但常有雾，偶尔有鲸鱼，小鸟伴陪。

Alta (Lat. 69.97 deg) 北纬69.97度

June 15: Our ship docked at Alta Harbor at 7 o'clock. Alta is known for its stunning natural beauty, with majestic mountains, fjords, and the surrounding Arctic wilderness.

After breakfast, we set out to hike the nearby mountain. The journey wasn't too long, about 4 to 5 kilometers from the pier to the top of the hill. The final few hundred meters involved climbing on large rocks, which proved challenging for some of the older passengers from the ship. As we descended the mountain, we had a delightful encounter with a group of fifth-grade students from a local school on an outdoor activity. They eagerly chatted with us, asked numerous questions, and even recommended the local shopping center to visit. They taught us some Norwegian phrases along the way, and their enthusiasm, curiosity, and confidence were fascinating. We were even more surprised to come across a group of kindergarten children climbing up the mountain, led by teachers at the front and back – something unimaginable in the United States. It's no wonder Norwegians love outdoor activities and have a spirit of adventure instilled in them from a very young age.

After our mountain adventure, we visited the Northern Lights Cathedral in the city center. The church was newly constructed. The church's architecture was quite remarkable. The building exterior was titanium sheets with a large spiral and a belfry inspired by the natural beauty of the Northern Lights. It required an entrance fee to see the church's interior, which we gladly paid. Instead of traditional sculptures of Jesus or religious figures, there was a stunning 4.3-meter-tall bronze sculpture of a man, adding a modern and artistic touch to the sacred space. Beneath the bell tower, a gold ladder, seemingly an artist's imaginative creation, led upwards, perhaps symbolizing a path to heaven. Our visit to the Northern Lights Cathedral left us in awe of its innovative design, harmonizing the majesty of nature with contemporary artistry, making it a truly captivating and unique experience, different from other churches in Europe.

Later, we took a bus to the Alta Museum, the World Heritage Rock Art Center, outside the city. It is dedicated to showcasing and preserving the unique heritage of Alta Rock Art, a collection of ancient rock carvings that date back thousands of years. The Alta Rock Art consists of more than 6,000 rock carvings on large panels spread across the landscape, depicting various scenes from prehistoric life, including hunting, fishing, rituals, and daily activities of the region's early inhabitants. The rock painting park was well-maintained, ensuring the priceless paintings were protected and accessible to visitors. We wandered along the path and deeply appreciated the skill and artistry of the ancient people who created these remarkable carvings.

Most of the museum-goers were from our cruise, and many had taken the bus to the museum like us. As we were ready to return to the ship, the bus station outside the museum was bustling with eager cruisers to return to their vessel. Only a few of us had purchased tickets in advance through our phones. When the first bus arrived, the driver was meticulous, ensuring everyone bought a ticket before boarding and only the front door was opened. It took quite a few minutes for only a handful of passengers to get on. The line was long, and people started wondering how long it would take to get on the bus. A little while later, the second bus came, stopping right in front of us. The second bus driver opened all the doors and gestured for everyone to board without tickets. We all rushed in, and the bus departed promptly. Looking back, we noticed the first bus was still slowly loading the passengers.

We decided to try a different restaurant with Brazilian cuisine in the evening. We did remember to bring our saved wine out. Unfortunately, the mediocre food didn't meet our expectations, leaving us somewhat disappointed.

6/15 - 北纬69.97度（Alta)

早上七点船来到Alta港。下船后先去爬山，路程不算长，加上从码头到山脚的一段大概有4，5公里，最后几百米是在大石头上爬上去的，有些年纪大的人就有点困难。在我们下山时，来自当地学校野外活动的五年级学生与我们聊天，问了我们好多问题，还推荐我们去当地购物中心看看。一路上还教我们不少挪威话，他们很热情，好奇和自信，很有意思。最为惊奇的是还碰到一群幼儿园小朋友也在往山上爬，前面有老师领队，后面有老师跟着，这在美国是不可思议的事情。难怪挪威人喜欢野外活动，勇敢的冒险精神从小就开始培养。

爬完山后就去市中心的教堂。这个教堂建筑很别致。进教堂要收门票，但这教堂和其它的不一样，没有耶稣塑像而换成了艺术人像。

坐公交车去城外的博物馆，那里有2～7千年前的岩石画。岩石画公园修建得很好，把这些无价之宝的岩石画保护起来又便于游客观赏。博物馆里绝大数参观者都是从我们游轮来的，很多人都是坐公交车来的。回码头的车站挤满了游客，第一辆车来了，像我们这样手机上已买票的少之又少。司机做事认真，每人必须买票才能上车，而且只开前门，几分钟也没上几个人。过一会儿来了第二辆车，正好停在我们面前，那司机将所有车门都打开，挥挥手不用买票，大家一涌而上，车就开走了。再回头看第一辆车还在慢慢地检票呢。

晚上试了另一家特色餐厅-巴西餐厅，不敢恭维，口味一般，有点失望。

Hammerfest (Lat. 70.66 deg.) 北纬70.66度

June 14: Our ship docked at Hammerfest in the morning. The town is located on the island of Kvaløya, just off the coast of the Norwegian Sea, with a population of more than 10,000. Today, this town is an important hub for the oil and gas industry in the region.

Eager to explore the city, we again purchased a 24-hour transportation card on our phones before stepping off the ship. With two bus stations close to the port, we opted for the less crowded one. With our transportation card, boarding the bus was a breeze. Little did we anticipate that the next stop would be bustling with passengers from our cruise ship. People were confused about paying for the bus tickets and blocked the bus door. To our surprise, the driver kindly gestured for everyone to get on quickly and generously, waiving the ticket fares. This thoughtful act spared them all the inconvenience of purchasing tickets on the spot. With a cheerful atmosphere, the passengers happily made their way to the vibrant city center. We couldn't help but appreciate the driver's kindness in waiving the ticket fares, making our travel experience more enjoyable.

When we arrived in the city center, we first took a photo in front of the Hammerfest city's landmark. Then, we visited the Hammerfest church. We notice the churches in Northern Norway have a similar architectural touch, a long triangle style integrated with the tower with the main entrance or the main buildings. Interestingly, this design differs from what we might find in other parts of Europe, where bell towers or clock towers are often placed on top of the main building. The traditional design in Northern Norway seems to emphasize the verticality of the structure, with the tower integrated into the overall shape of the church and surviving better under extreme cold and heavy snow weather conditions.

We climbed the hill near the city center after visiting the Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society. Although not too high, it had a steep slope, making it challenging. After reaching the hilltop, we enjoyed the panoramic view of the city and took some photos. We noticed a village inhabited by the Sami people, but it turned out to be a tourist attraction rather than a permanent settlement. An elderly Sami gentleman engaged us in conversation and invited us into a small tent with a warm fire. They no longer reside there permanently but utilize the area during the summer to tend to their reindeer and organize tourist activities. The reindeer in this region belong to the Sami people.

As the wind picked up and it started getting cold on the mountaintop, we decided to take the bus back to the city. We met a Norwegian couple also waiting for the bus. They mentioned the bus should arrive in just two minutes, but after waiting for over twenty minutes, no bus was in sight. During this time, we chatted with the couple and learned they were from southern Norway, visiting their daughter's sheep farm on a small island in the north. As the bus didn't show up, they kindly showed us a shortcut down the mountain and even accompanied us all the way to the city center, displaying remarkable warm hospitality. We later discovered that the buses in town took a one-hour break during lunchtime.

We returned to the ship for a quick lunch. Then we visited a small fishing village outside the city and took the bus there. However, upon arrival, we found that the village only had a small dock and a few fishing boats, with no other facilities or a single person. The weather was chilly, and the wind was fierce. The next bus back to the city wouldn't come for another forty minutes. So we had to seek shelter and warmth at the bus station, a concrete shed. It was chilly, and we were a little scared. We even had doubts about whether the bus would arrive on time since it was such a remote area that we might miss the ship's departure time.

The bus did come, and we were back in the city finally. We headed to the monument, which marks the northernmost point of the Struve Geodetic Arc, a part of the UNESCO site. These measurement points were established to determine the shape and size of the Earth, making them significant in terms of world cultural heritage.

With the ship's late departure, we explored a local historical site near the port after enjoying our dinner. This site was a collection of temporary housing structures from the post-World War II era, thoughtfully relocated for preservation. The city had faced significant destruction during the war, leaving only one building standing, which made the post-war architecture even more historically valuable.

Despite its small size, Hammerfest taught us many valuable lessons and left a lasting impression on our journey.

6/14: 北纬70.66度（Hammerfest)

我们外出尽量利用当地公交车，下船前先在手机上直接买了当地2 4小时的交通卡。在码头附近有二个车站，我们去了前面车站，车站上没几个人，我们有交通卡，车来就直接上车。没想到下一站站满了从游轮下来的乘客，大家全要在车上买票，有点乱哄哄。 司机看着这么多要买票的，也许出于好心，也许是怕这么多人票买下来，这车半小时也开不了，懒得收这个钱，就挥手让大家赶快上车，不用买票了，满满的一车人高高兴兴地到市中心全部下去。

我们先在Hammerfest市的市标前照个相，然后走去教堂打卡，接着去爬山，山不高但坡度挺陡的，弯弯曲曲还挺费劲的。在山顶上看看城市全景再照个相。看到附近有个挪威土族人（Sami)的村庄，实际上也是为游客而建的，他们正等着下一波游客团队的到来，我们凑热闹上去和一位老人聊聊，他让我们进到烧着火的小帐篷里看看。其实他们已不住这里，夏天会来这里放养驯鹿和搞些旅游活动，冬天回到较为暖和的山上。这里驯鹿都属于Sami人的。

山上风大，走一会儿有点冷，想坐车回船，看到一对挪威夫妇也在等车，说是二分钟公交车就会来的，结果等了二十几分钟车也没来。等车期间与他们聊天，他们来自挪威南方，去在北方小岛女儿家帮看外孙，女儿家在岛上有个养羊场。公交车不见踪影，我们准备走下山回市区，他们给我们指点了一条近路，怕我们走错就索性陪我们一路下山到市中心，真是一对热心人。我们走回船码头后才发现中午公交车休息一小时。

午餐后心血来潮要去城外的小渔村，还是坐公交车去。但来到那里一看，小渔村就只有个小的船码头和几条渔船，没任何其它设施， 更没一个人。当时天很冷且风非常大，下一班回市里的公交车要等四十分钟才来，我们只能待在车站棚避风保暖。

总算回到市区，接着来到斯特鲁维测地弧最北的一个测量点的纪念碑，这些测量点是为了确立地球的参考椭球体，直接测量地球大小的，被列为世界文化遗产。船要到半夜才离开，晚饭后又去了码头边的当地历史点，他们把岛上二战后建的临时住房搬了过来。二战期间，德军把整个城市都毁了，只有一幢楼幸存下来，所以二战后建筑算是历史建筑了。

这座城虽小，我们学了不少东西。

Harstad (Lat. 68.80 deg) 北纬68.80度

Harstad (Lat. 68.80 deg.) 北纬68.80度

June 13: Our ship arrived in Harstad, a mid-sized city in northern Norway with over 20,000 people. We decided to explore the town independently rather than join the ship's organized excursion.

The local bus transportation in Northern Norway is operated mainly by a single company, Fylkestrafikk, and the ticket fare is based on whether you are traveling within or between zones. The single ticket costs about 37 NKR within a zone; typically, traveling within a city or town falls within a single zone. Since we were familiar with the Norwegian bus system from the previous bus ride, we acquired the bus tickets through an app before leaving the ship.

Our first destination was the Harstad History Museum and Historical Farm, where we had the opportunity to delve into rural life from the past. At the history museum, we learned that the German forces occupied northern Norway during World War II, destroying many buildings. They also constructed a camp to detain Soviet prisoners of war at the location right next to the museum. We strolled through a park built on the former camp's site. Afterward, we continued our exploration and visited the northernmost medieval stone church.

Then, we boarded the bus back to the city center for a brief tour. It was a day filled with historical and cultural experiences as we immersed ourselves in the charm of Harstad.

Besides a few complimentary restaurants on the ship, several specialty restaurants on board require an additional fee to dine in. A meal for two in one of these restaurants would cost more than a hundred US dollars. Our cruise package included two specialty dining meals for two people at any specialty restaurant. To our surprise, the cruise line offered us two more specialty dining meals upon boarding and even gifted us a bottle of wine.

We decided to dine at the Italian restaurant on board for our evening meal and opted for a bottle of white wine, Shade of Blue, a Riesling from Germany. Since neither of us was a drinker, this semi-sweet wine with tropical fruit notes and a crisp citrus finish suits us well. We enjoyed our dinner, savoring the delectable food and the delightful wine. There was no way we would be able to finish the entire bottle. The server suggested saving the remaining wine for us, which could be used for our next visit to any restaurant on board. It was a smart trick we had just learned, allowing us to extend the enjoyment of that excellent Riesling. It was a fantastic dining experience with delicious cuisine and fine wine.

6/13: 北纬68.80度（Harstad)

第一站Harstad 实际上离Tromso不远，有二万多人口，按照挪威的标准，在北挪威也算是个中，大城市了。我们先参观了他们历史博物馆和历史农场，在那里可以体验一下当时的乡村生活。 从历史馆知道，二战期间德军占领整个北挪威，摧毁大多数建筑，在那里还建造关押苏军战俘的营地，我们在旧址上建的公园里走了一圈。然后去了最北的中世纪石头教堂。

下午在城中心走马观花之后就回船了。除了几个免费的餐厅之外，游轮上还有几个需要收费的特色餐厅，二人一顿饭大约需要一，二百美金。我们这次订的船票里包括了二顿特色餐厅用餐。上船后，发现他们又额外送给我们二顿特色用餐，还给了一瓶葡萄酒。今天晚餐去了特色餐厅吃意大利菜，在意大利餐厅里要了一瓶白葡萄酒，喝了一半，服务员说可以帮我们留着，我们下次去其它任何餐厅时再继续喝，这是我们刚学的小巧门。

Tromso (Lat. 69.65 deg) 北纬69.65度

June 11: We made our breakfast in our rented unit. It was a delightful breakfast with bacon, eggs, and a cup of aroma coffee. We were grateful for the convenience of having a kitchen because breakfast cafes in many European cities are hard to come by in the early morning, and they tend to open later. Having the kitchen allowed us to avoid the hassle of searching for food on the streets during those early hours.

After enjoying our breakfast, we proceeded to the local tourist information center to gather valuable insights about the area. We purchased a 24-hour tourist card combining the bus pass and tickets for two prominent attractions: the Arctic Cathedral and Fjellheisen (Cable Car). Excited about our plans, we embarked on our exploration and first headed to Telegrafbukta Beach Park, situated at the southern tip of Tromsoya Island.

At the beach park, we took a leisurely stroll along the seaside, captivated by the soothing sound of waves gently crashing against the shore. The sight of snow-capped mountains across the water added a touch of majesty to the landscape. As we walked, we felt the refreshing sea breeze on our faces, and from time to time, we sat on the benches, fully immersing ourselves in the tranquil ambiance surrounding us.

Our next plan was to take the cable car to the mountaintop, where we expected a stunning view of Tromso. However, we were disheartened to learn that the cable car was closed due to strong winds when we arrived by bus. Disappointed but undeterred, we visited the next attraction, the Arctic Cathedral, which had a charming exterior and interior. Unfortunately, the weather worsened with strong winds and drizzling rain, so we returned to the hotel for a break. As the bad weather continued, our concern grew about the potential impact on the planned midnight hiking tour tonight. The rain might interfere with the tour's enjoyment and safety, making us unsure what to expect.

Fortunately, the rain stopped, and the sun emerged in the evening. At 8 pm, a tour guide picked up Chenggang in Tromso city center and drove him and other participants over the Snadnessunbrua bridge to a larger island, Kvaloya. The first encounter was several reindeer roaming along the roads. The driver let us get out of the car to take some pictures.

Due to the recent rains, the trail was murky and slippery. Undeterred by the challenging conditions, the group embarked on a four-hour nighttime hike up the mountain. Chenggang had a couple of slips and falls during the descent, but it didn't dampen his spirits. Witnessing the sun hanging high in the midnight sky was a breathtaking and surreal sight that left everyone in awe.

Chenggang returned to the hotel around 1 am the next day, feeling exhausted and exhilarated at the same time. The entire experience had been invigorating, and despite the late hour, he felt a surge of energy, almost tempted to continue the journey on foot. The memories of that extraordinary hike will stay with him for a long time, making it a truly unforgettable adventure.

June 12: Our day began with a visit to the tourist information center, where we inquired about yesterday's cable car closure. Fortunately, the staff understood and was kind enough to refund our ticket for the portion of the cable car ride. With that sorted, we proceeded to our next destination, the Polaris Museum. We had the delightful opportunity at the museum to witness a dolphin feeding show. It was a captivating experience, observing these intelligent and playful creatures up close.

The new cruise terminal at the city center was well-equipped, with convenient amenities such as hotels, restaurants, and buses, but it only accommodated small ships with fewer than a thousand passengers. Unfortunately, for our NCL Star cruise, we had to embark from the old terminal, which was outdated and lacking in facilities. In the afternoon, we took a bus to the old cruise terminal located 4 kilometers away from the city center. The absence of passenger lounges was particularly noticeable, and security checks were conducted in large tents, which wasn't as efficient or comfortable. We waited about an hour to pass through the security check and check-in.

Besides this terminal, Norway's public infrastructure was excellent, even in remote small towns, with good roads, public transport, and reliable mobile communication and networks. We haven't used cash so far, and our T-Mobile phones have had no connectivity or data usage issues.

Today marks the beginning of our 12-day cruise to Norway and Iceland, exploring the Arctic Circle. Since visiting Antarctica, we've desired to experience the Arctic. During our trip to Alaska, we didn't dare to drive to the Arctic Circle for a photo, but this time, we can immerse ourselves in the Arctic Circle, fulfilling a dream come true.

After boarding the NCL Star, we dined at the buffet restaurant on the 12th floor before settling into our rooms. With a few hours left before departure, we got off the ship. We explored a nearby botanical garden due to its unique geographical location, featuring flora distinct from the southern regions.

At 8 pm, our ship departed from the cruise terminal, setting the stage for our exciting journey. Over the next few days, we will be venturing farther north, delving deeper into the captivating wonders of the Arctic region. The most remarkable aspect of this northern expedition is the phenomenon of the midnight sun. The sun remains a constant companion, gracing us with its presence throughout the day and night, as we imagined. As we continue our voyage, we eagerly anticipate the breathtaking landscapes and unique adventures that lie ahead in this extraordinary journey under the enchanting glow of the midnight sun.

6/11: 北纬69.65度（Tromso)

今天的早餐自己做，房间自带厨房很方便，鸡蛋，培根，咖啡等等。欧洲许多城市早晨吃早餐的地方不多，店都开得比较晚，对早起的人来说有点不方便。有厨房的话就不用满街找吃的了。

早上先去当地的旅游信息中心了解一下情况，买了包括24小时的公交车和二个主要景点的联票之后便开始踩点。首先坐车来到海边的公园，沿着海边慢慢走，听着浪声，看着对面的雪山，偶尔在椅子上坐坐，真是非常享受。接着我们准备坐缆车🚡，据说在山顶上俯瞰整个Tromso很漂亮。兴冲冲坐车来到山脚下，却被告知今天风太大，缆车不开。那一刻我们别提有多失望了，坐缆车可是我们买的联票中的一个项目。没办法只能去下一个景点-教堂，教堂的里外都比较别致。我们到教堂时外面刮起大风，也开始下毛毛雨，看完教堂后赶着回酒店。担心的是今晚还有个重要项目－北极半夜徒步爬山。

很幸运，傍晚开始雨停日出。晚八点由导游带着我们几位开车到另外一个小岛上去，来回路上还碰到不少驯鹿。在山上走了四个小时，回到酒店已第二天早晨一点了。整个过程很过瘾，有一种说不出的感觉，既是时过半夜，人还是很兴奋，想继续走下去。

6/12: 北纬69.65度（Tromso)

早晨先去旅游信息中心询问一下昨天没坐上缆车的事，他们就把缆车的票钱退还给我们。然后就去看了一下Polaris 博物馆，在那里观看喂海豚表演。

午后我们坐着公交车去了4公里外的游船老码头。他们在市中心造了个新的码头，周围环境很好，酒店，饭店，大巴应有尽有，很方便，但新码头只能停靠一千人以下的小船。而老码头设施陈旧，周围什么都没有，连乘客楼都没有，安检都是在大帐篷里做的。但话也说回来，挪威的其它公共设施还是很好的，既便是偏僻的小城里，公路，公交车，手机通信和网络都很不错。至今我们还没用过现金，我们的T-Mobile手机也畅通无阻，不用加流量。

今天将开始我们12天的挪威，冰岛游轮行，去北极圈转转。自从去过南极后，一直想到北极看看。上次去阿拉斯加时没敢开车去北极圈打卡，这次能深入北极圈也算是梦想成真。

上船后，我们先去十二层自助餐厅用餐，饭吃完房间也可以入住了。离开船还有几个小时，把行李放下后，我们又下船去码头附近的植物小园看看，因为这里的地理位置关系，植物园里树木花草之类的东西是不能与南方比的。

晚上八点，我们的NCL Star游轮慢慢地离开了船码头，以后的十几天里我们的行程会越来越往北，太阳会总是陪伴着我们，黑夜不再存在，有点不可思议。

Arctic Circle Train&Narvik 北极圈列车

June 9: The Arctic Circle Train connects Stockholm in Sweden and Narvik in Norway; the journey takes about twenty hours. The most convenient option for the Arctic Circle Train would have been a direct overnight train from Stockholm to Narvik by VY Nattag 94. However, for some reason, VY Nattag 94 was not running during the last few days. So we had to take the two-segment trains, Nattag 92 and 96, instead.

We boarded our train, VY Natag 92, which connects Stockholm in Sweden and Boden in Sweden, in Stockholm last night. This morning, we were roused from our sleep by the gentle swaying of the train. This train appeared to lack an automatic balancing mechanism, causing it to tilt slightly with every turn, resulting in swaying. Despite this, we managed to get some decent rest, possibly due to our weariness from the past few days' activities. It is a scenic train journey that takes travelers along the Gulf of Bothnia in the Baltic Sea and through dense forests and pristine lakes to reach Boden, Sweden. After the twelve-hour journey, we arrived in Boden a little after ten in the morning. There, we switched to another train, VY Nattag 96, traveling seven and a half hours to Narvik, Norway, the second segment of the Arctic Circle Train.

After boarding the VY Nattag 96 train in Boden, the landscape on both sides of the railway began to change into Arctic Circle scenery. The towering pine trees and green grass disappeared, replaced by slender white birch trees and brown tundra. In the last couple of hours, as it was winding through the northern parts of Sweden and Norway near the Arctic Circle, the train ride offered stunning views of the Arctic wilderness, including snow-capped mountains, pristine lakes, and unique flora and fauna.

This 250-mile railway is also known as the Iron Ore Line since it was built to transport iron ore from mines in Sweden to the ice-free port of Narvik for export. The railroad was once an engineering marvel for high-quality construction and design. The downhill train from the mines to Narvik only used 20% of the electricity it generated and used the rest to return the empty train to the mines. The transportation of iron ore occurred virtually cost-free, as the system ingeniously recycled its generated energy, eliminating the need to pay for additional fuel and electricity.

We arrived in Narvik at 5:30 pm, checked into the hotel, dropped off our luggage, and immediately ventured out to find something to eat. In the meantime, we tried to find the bus station and buy the bus tickets for the next day. We searched online to determine how to purchase the bus tickets and got some confusing information. We downloaded two apps from the bus company, one for live schedule and one for ticket purchase. There should be two buses to Tromso tomorrow based on the bus schedule. Using the app, we could purchase the general tickets only, not reserved for seats, and the tickets would expire after six hours. We felt the bus company just didn't want anyone to buy the tickets in advance. The bus station was conveniently located outside the largest shopping mall in the town, so we walked to the mall and the bus station. There was no ticket office, and only 3 ~ 4 bus schedules were posted on the board, but none showed Tromso as the destination. We got confused and frustrated. At this point, there was nothing we could do about it.

We continued our search for a good restaurant and settled in a Fish restaurant next to the fish market hall. After we had ordered the food, Chenggang realized that today's bus from Tromso would arrive in Narvik soon. Why didn't we ask the bus driver about tomorrow's schedule? Chenggang quickly left for the bus terminal, which was only a few minutes' walking distance. When he got to the station, the bus just arrived. He talked to the driver and confirmed the bus for Tromso would leave Narvik at the time based on the online schedule. What a relief!

Our food was ready just a few minutes after Chenggang returned from the bus terminal. Then the waiter came to our table to apologize for giving us the wrong fish dish. We didn't want to waste the food, so we told him it was okay and that we would take the wrong plate. These were all freshly made fish dishes anyway, and they tasted delicious. Ultimately, they only charged us 50% of the total bill due to one of the dishes was wrong. We were very delighted with their food and service.

After dinner, we took a leisurely stroll along the bay, enjoying the picturesque Arctic midnight sun.

June 10: - Latitude 68.45 degree (Narvik): Today, we started our day with breakfast at the hotel. The small town of Narvik does not have many hotel options, and we picked one based on the review and location. Contrary to the not-so-good reputation of Quality Inn's breakfast in the United States, we were pleasantly surprised by the complimentary breakfast here, which was abundant and far better than the expensive $20+ breakfasts we had at hotels in Sweden a few days ago. Moreover, knowing that most guests were heading on long journeys, the hotel offered a great deal – lunch-to-go for just $7. We couldn't resist this opportunity and made two delicious sandwiches to enjoy later during our travels. After the meal, we set out for a leisurely walk around the town, soaking in the serene life of this small Nordic city—the charm of the surroundings and the peaceful atmosphere added to the joy of our morning.

In the afternoon, just a little past 1 pm, we boarded a double-decker bus bound for Tromso, Norway, the largest city within the Arctic Circle. The bus driver recalled his conversation with Chenggang last night and warmly welcomed us. Surprisingly, only a few passengers were on the bus, allowing us to secure seats in the front row of the upper deck, providing us with an astonishing 180-degree panoramic view of the surroundings. The 4.5-hour journey passed swiftly, and the scenery was breathtaking, making this bus ride the most beautiful and comfortable one we've experienced. After taking buses in foreign countries a few times, we realized that bus travel should be seriously considered more often in future trips. The convenience, comfort, and opportunity to appreciate the incredible sights along the way are unparalleled, and it has certainly added a delightful dimension to our travel experiences.

Upon our arrival in Tromso, we wasted no time and headed straight to a nearby supermarket to stock up on groceries, as our hotel here was equipped with a kitchen. While in Sweden and Norway, we noticed a lack of vegetables, especially the Asian leafy greens we're accustomed to having. Therefore, we picked up some fresh green salads, meat, and fruits to create a satisfying dinner for tonight.

After enjoying our meal, we decided to stroll around the neighborhood to get acquainted with the area and its surroundings, preparing for a deeper exploration tomorrow.

6/9: 从瑞典的斯德哥尔摩到挪威的Narvik铁路线也称为北极圈列车线，行程近二十小时。最方便的是坐直达过夜火车。但不知什么原因，直达车这几天都没开，我们就只能订需要转一次的火车。

昨晚从斯德哥尔摩上的火车。大概火车没有自动平衡机制，每次转弯，火车就有点倾斜，觉得有点摇晃，不过睡得还可以，可能是因为前几天玩得有点累了。十二个小时很快就过去了，上午十点多就到达瑞典的Boden, 在那里换乘另一列火车前往挪威的Narvik, 大约需要七个半小时。

在Boden上车后，铁路两边开始变成北极圈的地貌，高大的松树和绿色的野草消失了，替代的是细小的白桦树和棕色的苔原。在最后一，二个小时，路边的风景非常优美。这段二百五十英里的铁路线也被称为铁矿石线，曾经是工程技术上的奇迹。

下午五点半到达挪威的Narvik, 入住旅馆放下行李，马上出去找吃的。晚饭后漫步在海湾边，享受着风景如画的北极白夜。

6/10: 北纬68.45度（Narvik)

今天在旅馆用早餐。小镇旅馆选择不多，我们看评分和旅馆位置选了一家。虽然品质客栈(quality inn)的早餐在美国名声不是很好，但这里的免费早餐却大不相同，比前几天在瑞典的酒店花了每人2 0几美金的早餐还要丰富。另外这个旅馆还很细心，也许知道大多客人都是要赶长途的，花七美金就可以随便打包午餐，我们自己做了二个三明治留着中午吃。饭后就在城里走走，感受一下宁静北欧小城生活。

下午一点多乘坐双层大巴去Tromso, 挪威，是北极圈内最大的城市。大巴上乘客不多，我们坐在二层第一排，有180度全景，一路上风景不错，是我们坐过大巴中最为漂亮舒服的一次，4个半小时巴士行程一会儿就过去了。我们已在外国坐过几次巴士，每次感觉都不错，看来今后旅行应该多考虑坐巴士。

到了Tromso后就去超市买点食品，这次的酒店是带厨房的。在瑞典和挪威这几天蔬菜吃得太少，这里也没亚洲的绿叶蔬菜，所以看到有蔬菜色拉就赶紧买，再配些肉和水果，晚饭就随便吃了。饭后就去附近走走，先熟悉一下环境，明天深度游。

Stockholm 斯德哥尔摩

June 6: In Stockholm, the tourist pass works differently from all the European countries we have visited. There are two separate cards: the 72-hour tourist and transportation cards. We decided to get both, enabling us to make the most of our visit. Stockholm's unique geography, with its myriad of islands, meant that many attractions were accessible by boats and ferries. The city center boasted around twenty to thirty small docks, providing convenient connections for tourists to explore the various island destinations.

We arrived in Sweden yesterday and learned today was Sweden's National Day, officially designated as a public holiday only since 2005. Although the celebrations were not as elaborate as those in China or the United States, the city center was bustling with people, and some popular tours were already fully booked. We decided to start with a one-hour boat ride along the Royal Canal, followed by a three-hour excursion to the archipelago.

We noticed a gathering of people outside the Naval Academy between the boat excursions, so we joined in the excitement. They were all awaiting the twenty-one-gun salute at noon. After the salute, three groups of fighter jets flew over the palace, marking the official celebration of their National Day.

We also witnessed spontaneous celebrations in the city center, with many locals waving flags and heading to parks and museums. Initially, we had planned to visit the Royal Palace, but it was exceptionally crowded since it was open to the public for free on National Day. We decided to postpone the visit for the next day. Instead, we explored the Nobel Prize Museum nearby but found it relatively simple and lacking distinctive features.

The old town, a popular attraction, captivated us with its charm. After wandering through its streets, we found a delightful Italian restaurant where we enjoyed pizza and seafood pasta.

Satisfied and energized, we continued our journey to the Fotografiska. This venue regularly hosts world-class and unconventional photography exhibitions; a fine dining restaurant is also inside. However, due to the National Day festivities, the restaurant was closed. Several world-class exhibitions were on display. "Santa Barbara" by Diana Markosian explores the nature of an immigrant family from Russia and the American dream in a moving and fascinating film.

With daylight lasting until after 9 pm, we couldn't resist exploring the city and admiring its nighttime beauty. The bustling streets during the day transformed into a serene and beautiful historic town in the evening.

June 7: It was another beautiful day with clear skies. Early in the morning, we hurried to the Royal Palace just in time to witness the changing of the guards. After enjoying the ceremonial display, we bought tickets to enter the palace for a tour, and we found out that the 72-hour tourist pass we purchased yesterday did not cover some of the major museums, such as the Royal Palace. While the palace was grand, it didn't differ much from other European palaces we had visited before.

In the afternoon, we leisurely strolled along the waterfront to the City Hall, where we found a small café nearby for a simple lunch. Afterward, we boarded an afternoon boat cruise at 2 pm to visit the Queen's Palace outside the city. It was the third boat excursion in two days. The palace was stunning, and with only a few visitors, it was precisely to our liking. The well-maintained gardens exceeded our expectations. Interestingly, in 1753, the king secretly built a Chinese Pavilion and adorned it with items from China and other Asian regions as a surprise gift for the queen. At that time, Chinese items were considered high-end luxury goods, and to this day, the Chinese Pavilion still retains its original wallpaper and some artistic decorations.

Returning to the city, we found a fantastic Asian restaurant next to our hotel for dinner. The flavors and dishes surpassed all our expectations, leaving us thoroughly satisfied. After dinner, we took a bus to Royal Park outside the city center. As we meandered through the park's serene pathways, we were captivated by its picturesque and tranquil surroundings. The absence of crowds of tourists made the experience even more enjoyable and relaxing. We joyfully clapped our hands in the Echo Pavilion to try its acoustic magic. The royal family also owns a sizeable private palace inside the park, but the high walls and endless security cameras prevented us from taking any photographs. Overall, our evening in the Royal Park was a delightful escape from the city's hustle and bustle, offering us a chance to appreciate nature's beauty and cherish quiet moments together.

June 8: Our final day in Stockholm was dedicated to visiting three museums: the Nordic Museum, the Vasa Museum, and The Viking Museum. Among them, the Vasa Museum stood out with its fascinating history. The Vasa was an ancient warship constructed in 1628, personally designed by the king to be one of the most advanced warships of its time. However, the ship sank just ten minutes after its maiden voyage due to its high center of gravity and narrow hull. Despite the king's involvement in the ship's design, he couldn't be held responsible, and the incident was swept under the rug. The Vasa lay at the bottom of the sea for over 300 years until it was salvaged in 1961. Over 90% of its components were still original, making it one of the most complete ancient warships in the world.

Our train departed at 10 pm. The hotel allowed us to check out at 6 pm by paying an additional $30, and we could explore the museums during the day and rest in the hotel later. That is precisely what we did. After checking out, we left our luggage at the hotel and returned to the old town. The hotel staff recommended a Swedish restaurant in the old town, where we enjoyed an authentic Swedish meal of meatballs and salmon.

After dinner, we wandered around Stockholm's city center once again. At 9:30 pm, we arrived at the train station, and our train was already waiting for us. We had booked a small sleep compartment with three beds but decided to pay extra to secure the entire room for ourselves, providing more comfort in the tight space. The compartment had a small sink, which made washing up convenient. It was our first time experiencing an overnight sleeper train in a foreign country, and it felt a bit less luxurious than the Amtrak sleeper cars in the United States. Still, it was a new and exciting adventure nonetheless.

6/6: 斯德哥尔摩的旅游卡和交通卡是分开的，我们购买了7 2小时旅游卡和交通卡。斯德哥尔摩地区有无数个岛屿，许多旅游项目都与游船，渡轮有关，市中心有二，三十个小码头。

到瑞典后才知道今天是他们的国庆节，直到0 5年才正式法定为休假日。虽然他们没像中国和美国那样庆祝，但是今天市中心还是人山人海，有些旅游项目都满客了。我们先坐小船在皇家运河里转了一小时，之后又花了三小时来了趟群岛游。

在这二游船之间，看到许多人聚集在海军学院外，我们也过去凑个热闹，发现大家都在等午时二十一响礼炮。二十一礼炮响后，三组空军战机飞越皇宫在上空转了一圈，也算是他们的国庆官方活动了。在市中心还看到一些自发的庆祝活动，许多当地人都拿着国旗在街上走或者是去公园和博物馆。本来计划去皇家宫殿的，结果因为皇家宫殿今天免费开放，去的人实在太多，我们决定还是隔日再去。诺贝尔奖博物馆就在附近且关得晚，我们去那里看了一下，博物馆做的不是很好，很简单也没什么特色。

老城区是一个景点，在那里转转之后找了一家意大利餐厅，要了披萨和海鲜意大利面，很不错。吃饱喝足继续看，来到斯德哥尔摩摄影展览馆。这里常常举办世界级、不拘一格的摄影展览，馆内还有高级餐厅，可能是国庆节的缘故，今天餐厅没开。发源于这里的摄影展览馆开始向世界各地发展，据说准备在上海苏州河也开同样的摄影馆。

这里九点多才日落，回到酒店后看着天还很亮，又出去转转，看看夜景，街头游客寥寥无几, 白天喧闹的大都市又变成了安静美丽的历史古城。

6/7: 今天又是个好天气，晴空万里，一早就赶去瑞典皇宫, 正好赶上换岗仪式，我们就凑热闹看了一会儿。然后就买票进皇宫参观，发现我们买的旅游卡并不包括皇宫之类的几个大景点。皇宫不错，与我们去过的其它欧洲宫殿没什么大的差别。

下午沿着水岸漫走到市政府楼，在附近找了小餐厅吃了简单的午餐后，就上了下午二点的游船去城外王后宫邸参观，非常漂亮，去的人不多，正合我们的心意。花园修得很好，大大超出了我们的期望。当时国王在1753年还在那里偷偷建造了一栋中国楼，并用来自中国和其他亚洲地区的物品装饰一番，送给王后，给她一个大惊喜。看来当时来自中国的东西是高档奢侈品，中国楼至今还保留当时的墙纸和其他一些艺术用品。

坐船回到城里后，在酒店旁边找了一家亚洲餐厅吃晚餐，味道是我们这次行程中最好的。饭后又坐公交车去在市中心外皇家公园散步，环境优美。王室在公园里有一座很大的私人宫殿，围墙拦着，无数的摄像头，不让拍照。

今天一整天都在看宫殿，路走了不少，休息一下明天再接再厉。

6/8: 最后一天在斯德哥尔摩，又走了三个博物馆，Nordic, Vasa和The Viking 博物馆，其中Vasa较有意思。Vasa是一艘古老的军舰，建成于1628年，由国王亲自参与设计的当时最先进的军舰，但下水仪式十分钟后就沉落海底，原因之一是船设计的船高身窄，重心太高．大风一来船就翻了。当然国王参与的事是不能追究责任的，只能不了了之。船在海底睡了三百多年。1961年开始将这船打捞上来，百分之九十以上的部件是原始的，据说是世界上最为完整的古军舰之一。

今天我们乘坐晚上十点的过夜火车离开这里，酒店允许我们推迟到下午六点才退房，只要多付三十美金。这样我们白天可以安心看完博物馆，然后再回酒店休息一会儿。退房后将行李寄存在酒店，又回到老城区。酒店前台推荐了一家老城区的餐厅，我们在那里吃上一顿正宗瑞典菜，肉园子和三文鱼，很满意。

晚饭后又在斯德哥尔摩市中心转了转，九点半来到火车站，火车已等着我们了。我们订的是三床一间的卧铺小包间。多花了一点钱把第三个床位买下了，这样小房间就只有我们俩。房间很小，但里面有个小水池这样洗漱比较方便。第一次在国外坐过夜火车，有种新鲜感，但觉得比美国的Amtrak 卧铺车厢要稍微差一点。

Oslo 奥斯陆

June 2: We set off again before dawn, boarding another Emirates flight to bid farewell to Dubai. After a seven-and-a-half-hour journey, we arrived in Oslo, the capital of Norway. Compared to Dubai's airport, the immigration hall in Oslo was small and dim, quite outdated. We quickly reached the city center from the airport via a high-speed train departing every ten minutes. Within twenty minutes, we arrived at our hotel, conveniently located next to the central station.

Upon arriving in Norway, we were immediately struck by the fresh air and clear blue skies adorned with fluffy white clouds. After checking in and leaving our luggage at the hotel, we set off on foot towards Karl Johans gate. Along the way, we detoured to visit a charming Catholic church before continuing our stroll to the Royal Palace.

By sheer coincidence, we witnessed an important individual departing the palace, escorted by a police motorcycle. The Royal Palace's architectural style is simple but elegant, and a few guards stood beside simple sheds throughout the complex. The "Royal Palace Park" (Slottsparken), which surrounds the Royal Palace, has been a popular public park since the early 19th century. It is open year-round for visitors to enjoy its green spaces, sculptures, and serene ambiance. We were delighted to spend an enjoyable afternoon in the park.

Next, we visited the National Theatre, which boasts a history of over 120 years. At that time, a reading performance was taking place inside the theater. We obtained complimentary tickets to listen to the reading from a book, even though we didn't understand the language. It was an excellent opportunity to immerse ourselves in a foreign country's culture and admire the theater's beauty.

For dinner, we treated ourselves to a delightful outdoor dinner at a plaza just outside the City Hall, enjoying a selection of salads, sausages, shrimp, and cheese. This delicious Western meal perfectly suited our taste buds. After dinner, we took a stroll along the seaside to glimpse the beautiful surroundings, saving more detailed exploration for the next day. Oslo is situated close to the 60th parallel north. In June, the city experienced remarkably long daylight hours, with the sun rising as early as 4:07 am and setting at 10:23 pm, as an example today. The sky remained bright throughout the night, adding a unique charm to our experience in this vibrant city.

June 3: Oslo's Opera House is an iconic cultural building in Norway. It resembles a white sandy beach or a ski resort from a distance. In the morning, we took a leisurely walk on the roof, enjoying the panoramic view of Oslo's cityscape and the beautiful bay. We didn't spend too much time there as we wanted to visit the Munch Museum on the other side over a small bridge.

In the Munch Museum, we met with Edvard Munch's iconic masterpiece, "The Scream," one of the most famous and iconic paintings in art history. It is a powerful representation of the human condition and the artist's emotional turmoil. It was a breathtaking experience to stand before this renowned painting. Interestingly, there are four versions of "The Scream." The museum owns three versions: Tempera and oil on cardboard, 1910/ Litograph, 1895/Crayon on cardboard, 1893. To protect these priceless treasures, the museum displayed only one of the three different painting versions at a time for just one hour, and we stayed in the museum long enough to have witnessed two out of three versions during our visit.

It is fascinating to learn about Munch's other impactful works apart from "The Scream." The Monumental Collection Exhibition in the Museum showcases some of Munch's largest paintings ever created in a high-ceiling hall, making for an immersive experience. "The Sun" is one of Munch's most significant achievements in modern mural painting. It serves as a symbol of the power and ingenuity of life, incorporating elements of natural sciences, religion, and the birth of the universe. In contrast, "The Human Mountain: Towards the Light" leaves a haunting impression on our emotions, evoking profound feelings within us. Our museum visits have never yielded such a powerful emotional impact, making these experiences unforgettable.

As we exited the Munch Museum, we were drawn by the lively sounds of music nearby. It was a local marching band event with participants of various age groups. We sat at a nearby restaurant, ordering salmon sandwiches and a salmon Hawaiian poke bowl, and watched the performance. Both items were the most delicious raw and cooked salmon dishes we had ever tasted.

After lunch, we continued our exploration and visited the National Museum, a newly built institution with unique characteristics. The museum houses a substantial collection of artifacts and exhibits worth seeing, including the first version of "The Scream" and different versions of some of Munch's other works. Seeing the first iteration of such an iconic and emotionally charged painting was a remarkable experience that deepened our appreciation for Munch's artistic journey. Edvard Munch is the artist who created many versions of his substantial art masterpieces. The National Museum proved to be an exceptional venue to explore the nation's artistic treasures, and we left feeling enriched by the experience and grateful for the opportunity to witness these masterpieces in person.

Our next destination was Akershus Castle, once a magnificent royal palace for the Norwegian monarchy. Unfortunately, we reached there with only a little over half an hour before closing time, limiting our visit to a brief walk-through. The castle's architecture resembled other historic European castles we had previously seen, so we opted not to linger for an extended period. Nonetheless, the glimpse of its regal past left a lasting impression on our minds.

We then took a bus ride to Vigeland Sculpture Park, which contains 192 sculptures, 650 figures made from bronze, iron, and granite, reflecting the stages of human life from birth to death. The city government had given Gustav Vigeland this land and built a studio for him, and in return, he promised to donate all his works to the government after his death. He devoted more than 20 years to fulfilling this promise, and we all have the opportunity to experience his artwork. It is another emotionally disturbing visit to the art exhibition.

After a day of exploring, we were tired from all the walking, so we decided to rest and recharge at a highly-rated Italian restaurant. The sausages and pizza were indeed delightful, and the service was excellent.

June 4: Today, we took a ferry to the Norwegian Folk Museum across the city center. This museum is the world's oldest open-air museum and houses 160 buildings from various regions of Norway, relocated from different parts of Norway. As it was the weekend, we encountered many locals dressed in traditional costumes, playing musical instruments, and engaging in singing, dancing, and performances – truly a fascinating experience.

We visited two more maritime adventure museums in the afternoon – the Fram Polar Ship Museum and the Kon-Tiki Museum. The bravery and adventurous spirit of those explorers left us in awe.

Having spent two days in Oslo, we went to bed right before sunset each day. Tonight, we decided to have an extra cup of coffee and stay outside to witness the sunset. During the stay in Oslo, we purchased a 48-hour Oslo Pass, which includes museum tickets and serves as a transportation card – a truly worthwhile investment. It allowed us to visit as many museums as possible.

June 5: Today, we were leaving Oslo for Stockholm, Sweden. Before departing, we decided to explore a few more places. Unfortunately, it's Monday, and all the museums are closed. So, we headed to the botanical garden, which was impeccably maintained, and the tranquil atmosphere was only enhanced by the small number of tourists strolling around.

After checking out of the hotel, we left our luggage there and went to see the sculptures by the seaside. To our surprise, the statues were surrounded by young people basking in the sun, adding a touch of vibrant life to the art pieces.

As we walked, a craving for Japanese ramen struck, and we found a Japanese restaurant near the sculpture area. The scenery was fantastic, and the ramen and salmon sashimi taste also satisfied us.

We picked up our luggage from the hotel in the afternoon and eagerly stepped onto the express train destined for Stockholm, Sweden. Despite being called a fast train, sometimes we had to yield to freight trains. Our train carriage wasn't crowded; they even provided complimentary drinks, fruits, and chocolates throughout the journey. We enjoyed the food and the scenic views of the Norwegian and Swedish countryside along the way. After a short nap, we were refreshed and ready to document the memorable experiences of the past few days as we continued on our delightful journey. Time seemed to fly by, and before we knew it, we arrived in another new country, Sweden.

Our hotel in Stockholm is conveniently located next to the central train station. After checking in, we rested early, ready to embrace new adventures in a new country tomorrow.

6/2: 天没亮就出发，再次坐上阿联酋航空，和迪拜说再见。七个半小时后来到挪威首都奥斯陆。与迪拜机场相比，奥斯陆的入境厅又小又暗太落后了。从机场到市中心的高速铁路每十分钟一班，直达车二十分钟后就到了，我们住的酒店就在市中心车站旁边，非常方便。

来到挪威的第一感觉是空气好，蓝天白云。入住酒店放下行李后，就走去卡尔·约翰斯大道，顺便进了天主教堂看了一眼，然后一直走到挪威皇宫。正巧有车从里面出来，而且有警车带路，看来是重要人物。皇家宫殿外面看上去非常简单, 皇家公园是对外开放的。

来到有一百二十多年历史的国家戏院，当时剧场里正在朗读表演。可以拿免费的票进剧场听，虽然听不懂但感受了一下异国文化。

晚餐在市政府楼边上的餐厅，色拉，香肠，虾和奶酪等，西式饮食，非常享受，很合我们胃口。

饭后在海边走走算是先了解一下，明天再仔细游。挪威奥斯陆纬度接近北纬60度，日出是早上4:07; 日落是晚上10:23，而且整晚天都不暗的。

6/3: 奥斯陆歌剧院是挪威最有特色的文化建筑，远处望去像似白色沙滩或者是滑雪场，可以在屋顶上面漫步，饱览奥斯陆的市容和海湾美景。我们没在那里待太久，赶着去了小桥对面的蒙克博物馆。

在博物馆里，看到了爱德华．蒙克的绝作 - “呐喊”，总共有四个版本，馆里展示三个不同的版本，但为了保护这些无价之宝，每小时只显示其中一个版本，我们前后看到了二个版本，他的其它作品也同样扣动心弦。蒙克的许多作品都有几个版本，这也是他的一个特色。

走出蒙克博物馆后，被响亮的音乐声吸引过去，好像是当地行进乐队活动，有各种年龄段的。我们索性就在旁边一家餐厅坐下，要了三文鱼三明治和三文鱼夏威夷盖饭边看边吃，从来没吃到这么好吃的三文鱼，生的和熟的二种三文鱼都味道极佳。

吃完午餐继续逛，去了国家博物馆，是新建的，也有特色。馆内宝贝不少，展品值得一看。在那里，还看到了第一版本的＂呐喊＂，以及蒙克一些其它作品的不同版本。

阿克斯胡斯城堡曾经是挪威王室宫殿，到那里时还有半个多小时就要关门。这城堡与欧州其它的一些旧城堡相似，我们就走马观花转了一圈。

坐车来到维格朗雕塑公园，园内有 192 座雕塑，总计有由铜，铁和花岗石制成的650个人物雕像，反映从生到死的人生全过程。当时市政府给他的土地，为他造工作室，他答应死后把所有的作品捐赠给政府，他为此付出二十多年心血。

一天逛下来路走了不少有点累，必须休息一下补充点能量。选了家评价不错的意大利饭店，香肠和披萨的确不错，服务生态度也特别的好。

6/4: 今天坐渡轮去市中心对面的挪威民俗文化博物馆参观，该博物馆是世界上最早的露天博物馆，收藏了来自全国各地的1 6 0座建筑。正好是周末，有不少当地人身穿民族服装，带着乐器，在那里唱歌跳舞演奏，很有意思。

下午去了另外二个海上探险博物馆 - 弗拉姆极地船博物馆和康提基号博物馆，感叹那些探险者的勇敢和冒险精神。

来奥斯陆二天了，每天都是在日落前倒头就睡。今晚多喝一杯咖啡，硬撑着外出看太阳落山。我们购买了48小时奥斯陆旅游卡，包括博物馆门票，也可以用作交通卡，非常值得。

6/5：今天要离开奥斯陆，走之前又去踩点了几个地方。今天是周一，博物馆都关闭。我们就去了植物园，修整得很好，游客没几个，安静漂亮。

回酒店退房把行李寄存在酒店，然后走去看看在海边的雕塑，没想到在雕塑作品周围躺满享受日光浴的年轻人, 给那些雕塑艺术作品添加不同的色彩。

突然想吃日本拉面，就在雕塑区附近有家日本饭店，不光是风景好，拉面和三文鱼生鱼片的味道也都很满意。

下午二点半上了前往瑞典斯德哥尔摩的快车，七个半小时后达到目的地。说是快车，有时却要让路给货车。我们的车厢里人不多，还提供免费的饮料，水果和巧克力，有吃有喝，一路上还能看到挪威和瑞典乡村风光。时间过得很快，打个盹，抓紧时间把前几天游记记录下来。

斯德哥尔摩的酒店就在市中心火车站旁边。入住后早早休息，新国家新地方，明天继续。

Dubai 迪拜

May 30: We bid farewell to our family and left Shanghai. On our way to the airport, we chatted with our taxi driver, who was from Anhui province. He mentioned how challenging it was to get passengers from Pudong Airport these days. Often, he had to wait in long queues for hours before getting a customer at the airport due to the lack of international travelers to China. However, today was his lucky day. As we just arrived at the airport departure terminal, and we had not even exited the taxi yet, someone was already standing there and wanted to take our taxi. We were so happy for the driver and wished him good luck.

Perhaps it was late at night, there were few flights, and Pudong Airport was relatively sparse with passengers. Not many people were in line for immigration either, and everyone was busy filling out the exit health declaration forms on their phones. It seemed an arbitrary policy to require travelers to fill out health declaration forms to leave the country. Surprisingly, just a few machines and QR codes were around, and no one seemed to supervise the process closely.

This trip marked our first time flying with Emirates Airlines. Upon boarding, we noticed a wet spot on one of our seats and informed the flight attendant. The attentive flight attendant from the Netherlands immediately replaced the seat cushion. Throughout the nine-hour flight, she took special care of us, sharing her life experiences and providing insights about Dubai. Before disembarking, she wrote down restaurant recommendations and popular attractions for us. Knowing it was our first time flying with Emirates, she took a photo of us using an instant camera and gifted us as a souvenir with good wishes.

The customs efficiency in Dubai was impressive, and their arrival hall was one of the best and most beautiful ones we had seen in any country we visited. It was evident that they put effort into attracting foreign tourists. After collecting our luggage, we hopped into a taxi and headed to our hotel in downtown Dubai. The taxi in Dubai is very credit card friendly, and every cab is equipped with a touch-free credit card reader. We felt like we were back in another world as our phones came back to life, and there was no more cash in our pockets. Everywhere we go, we just use the phone.

Having arrived at the hotel before 7 am (May 31), we were pleasantly surprised by the warm hospitality of the receptionist who allowed us to check in early, and the additional fee was just less than half a day's cost. To our delight, they also provided us with a complimentary breakfast. Once we had freshened up, we indulged in a delightful and hearty breakfast at the hotel restaurant, marking the beginning of our exciting first day in Dubai.

Our first stop was the Grand Bur Dubai Mosque. They allowed the visitors to enter the prayer hall outside prayer time. When we got there, an English tour just started. Ladies were required to wear traditional Muslim attire to cover the head. Fortunately, they provided appropriate clothing for tourists. Inside the men's prayer hall, we were impressed by the grandeur. Sitting on the floor, we listened to a Muslim devotee who shared insights into the Islamic faith and answered our questions, providing a valuable learning experience. The Dubai Museum is temporarily closed because the property is under restoration.

After the mosque visit, we headed to a nearby trendy restaurant, recommended by our daughter, and ordered a breakfast platter which tasted quite good, and the ambiance was delightful.

Next, we explored Dubai's old city, a well-preserved blend of old and new elements. It was nicely built, but we noticed there were fewer tourists. The scorching 40-degree heat made it challenging to walk around, so we hailed a taxi and left the place to visit the world's largest shopping mall, Dubai Mall.

Inside the mall, we experienced the luxurious shopping environment of a wealthy country. The place was packed with people, and almost every major luxury brand had multiple stores. Some top-tier stores had long queues outside. It was a rare sight to see so many customers inside one of the Louis Vuitton stores, and we were among the few casual onlookers. The mall not only had shops and restaurants but also featured attractions like an ice-skating rink, an aquarium, and an incredibly massive waterfall. Initially planning to explore the entire mall, we soon abandoned the idea and focused on finding food. We joined a long queue outside a fried chicken fast-food joint, trying their popular traditional fried chicken, which was quite delicious.

In the evening, we watched the stunning fountain light show with the world's tallest building, the Dubai Tower, in the backdrop. We noticed a Din Tai Fung restaurant nearby and decided to try it. We still remember waiting more than an hour for a seat at Din Tai Fung in Taipei, but there was no line there. Not too much surprise, the menu replaced all pork dishes with chicken options, as pork is not consumed in this Muslim country. Some items tasted quite different with the change of ingredients. Following our late-night snack, we strolled along the artificial lake and enjoyed the fountain show again, concluding our fulfilling first day in Dubai.

June 1: After having breakfast at the hotel, we visited the Dubai Tower, also known as the Burj Khalifa. We still took a taxi while the tower was near our hotel due to the scorching 40-degree Celsius heat. The Burj Khalifa stands as the tallest artificial structure in the world, with 160 floors and a height of 826 meters. The observation deck on the 124th/125th floors, at 450 meters, provided breathtaking views. However, we were disappointed to find that Dubai's air quality was relatively poor, and the visibility from the Burj Khalifa was limited due to the haze. Regrettably, the poor air quality in Dubai made it difficult to fully appreciate the splendor of the seven-star Burj Al Arab Hotel and the mesmerizing artificial islands in the sea.

After descending from the Burj Khalifa, we went to Dubai Marina, the world's largest artificial marina, which has been transformed into a fashionable leisure, dining, and shopping destination. In the scorching Dubai summer, we sought shelter indoors after walking just a few steps along the waterfront.

Our visit to Dubai Marina included a ferry ride around the famous Palm Jumeirah. Unfortunately, we were informed that the ferry couldn't take the regular route due to strong winds, so we had to take the inner bay route. The ferry ride got a bit rocky, and we experienced some seasickness. Nevertheless, we caught a closer glimpse of the iconic Burj Al Arab Hotel.

The ferry had two stops, and we got off at the first one since we visited the second stop area yesterday. To our surprise, we were the only passengers to disembark. The reason quickly became apparent – apart from a small ticket booth, the place was mostly deserted, surrounded by vast empty land, and inaccessible to taxis. The ticket attendant said he regretted working at that booth since it hardly saw any visitors. Fortunately, our experience living in Phoenix had accustomed us to the heat, so we took it in stride. The main road wasn't far away, and we strolled along the Dubai Canal for a while, even crossing the world's most beautiful twisted footbridge, the Dubai Twisted Footbridge, as Dubai seemed to have quite a few "world's bests."

Subsequently, we hailed a taxi to visit another of Dubai's remarkable landmarks - the Dubai Frame, acclaimed as the world's largest picture frame. Standing over 150 meters tall, the frame is a cultural landmark where old and new Dubai meet. Upon reaching the top, we stepped onto the glass floor at a staggering height of 150 meters, an exhilarating experience that was entirely novel to us.

Present

Past

We were off to a new country the following day, concluding our two-day layover in Dubai with a sense of satisfaction.

5/30: 与家人告别离开上海。在去机场路上，与来自安徽的出租车小哥聊了一会儿，他说现在从浦东机场接活不容易，常常要在机场排队等好几个小时才接上客户。可他今天很幸运，我们刚到机场还没下车，正好碰上有人等着要上他的车，我们为他好运降临而高兴。

也许是半夜出发班机不多，浦东机场里乘客稀稀拉拉，排队出关的也不多，大家都在手机上忙着填写出境健康表，没人管就放几个机器和二维码在那里。也不知为什么出境还要健康码，出关还算顺利，就是效率低一点。

第一次乘坐Emirates 航空，上了飞机后，发现我们的一个座位有湿水迹，空姐马上就把那个座椅垫换了。以后的九个小时飞行中，这位来自荷兰的空姐对我们特别照顾。谈谈她的人生经历，向我们介绍迪拜的一些情况。在下机前，还写下了推荐的餐厅名和景点，给了个小礼物。知道我们是第一次乘坐阿联酋航空，用即时相机为我们照相留念。

迪拜海关效率很高，他们的入境大厅是我们去过的国家中最好最漂亮的，看出来他们在吸引外国游客上下了功夫。拿了行李后，坐上出租去旅馆。这里的出租车有规定必须收信用卡。我们的手机也开始“复活＂了，又回到了另一世界。来到酒店已是5/31的早上，才七点不到，热心的前台让我们提早入住，只多付了半天不到的钱，还给我们免费早餐。梳洗完毕后去餐厅吃了个丰盛的早餐，开始了在迪拜的第一天。

我们先去清真寺参观，女士必须穿上穆斯林的服装，清真寺有为游客专门提供的服装。脱了鞋进入他们的男士祷告大厅，里面很壮观。大家席地而坐，一位穆斯林教徒向大家介绍穆斯林教，回答问题，我们学到不少东西。

参观后，来到附近不远的一家网红餐厅，是女儿推荐的。要了个早餐大拼盘，味道还可以，环境更胜－筹。

饭后去了迪拜老城，说是老城实际上是旧地新复古城。修建得很不错，但游客稀少。在40度高温下走一会儿有点撑不住，就叫了出租车去了世界上最大的购物中心 - 迪拜猫。在猫里，亲身体验到了一个富有国家的消费环境。那里人山人海，几乎世界上所有名牌在那里都有专买店，而且不止一个。有几个顶级店外面还排着长队，从来没有见过一个LV店里面有这么多顾客，而且我们这样的看客是极少数。猫里面不光有商店和餐饮，还有滑冰场，水族馆，巨大无比的瀑布等等。原来准备把猫走一遍的，没多久就放弃了这个目标，开始找吃的。看到一家快餐炸鸡店外排着很长的队，我们也去凑个热闹, 要了他们最热门的传统炸鸡，味道还真不错。

晚上在猫的外面，以世界最高的迪拜塔为背景的喷水池灯光秀值得一看。看完灯光秀，见水池边正好有鼎泰丰，进去试试。坐下一看菜单还真有不同，所有猪肉都被鸡肉代替了，我们完全忘记这里是不吃猪肉的。只是有些东西改了原材料后口味就完全不一样了。夜宵后，又在人工湖边走走，再次欣赏一次灯光秀，迪拜第一天就这样圆满结束了。

6/1: 在酒店用完早餐后，就去了迪拜塔，也称哈利法塔。塔虽就在我们住的酒店附近，但在40 C高温下，走过去是不行的，还是叫出租车。哈利法塔是世界上最高的人造建筑，一共160层，826米，观景厅在124/125层，450米。没想到迪拜的空气质量这么差，雾霾很严重，在迪拜塔上看远处的七星级的舨船酒店只是朦朦胧胧的依稀可见，海上那些人工小岛更是什么都看不清了，有点失望。

从哈利法塔下来后就去迪拜码头，世界上最大的人工码头，被打造成时尚，休闲、餐饮和购物场所。在炎热的迪拜夏天，在岸边没走几步就躲进了室内。

来迪拜码头另一目的是要乘坐渡轮围绕着著名的棕榈岛转一圈。可风云不测，晴空万里的城内，买船票时却被告知说海上有大风，船不能从外面绕棕榈岛了，只能走内湾。结果船开没多久还真的就开始左右摇晃的厉害，有点晕船。不过至少这次算是比较近距离亲眼目睹了著名的舨船酒店。渡轮一共有二站，终点站附近我们昨天已去过了，我们就决定在第一站下船，结果发现就只有我们俩。下船后就知道为什么没人从这站上下了，因为除了小售票亭，一眼望去整个一大片荒地，周围什么东西都没有，出租车也进不来。和售票小哥聊了聊，他说早知如此他是不会在这小亭子工作的。幸亏我们来自凤凰城，这点热没把我们打垮，既来之则安之，公路也不远，我们沿着迪拜运河走了一段，还上了被称为世界上最美的扭曲步行桥，反正在迪拜有不少世界之最。

接着叫车去了迪拜另一个之最，世界上最大的＂相框＂，迪拜相框，一百五十多米高的建筑物，成为新老迪拜交汇的一个文化地标建筑。相框一边是新迪拜另一边是老城区。坐电梯来到相框顶上，走在一百五十米高的玻璃地面上也是我们第一次。

明天一早就要去新的国家，做了二天的迪拜过路客还算满意。

Ningbo/ Shaoxing 宁波／绍兴

May 16: We took the subway to Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station in the early morning to catch a high-speed train to Ningbo. These days, real-name authentication is mandatory for almost every activity in China. Entering/Exiting the railway station requires identification checks using either residence cards or passports for foreigners, and lines are always very long. Although we had already provided all the necessary passport information when purchasing the tickets, we still had to go through the passport verification at the station via a manual process handled by the security personnel, which surprised us. However, we found out later that the line for foreign passport verification always was the shortest. Nevertheless, after a journey of a little over two hours, we arrived safely in Ningbo.

Upon arriving in Ningbo, we immediately headed to a XiaoYang Pan-Fried Bun eatery located in a shopping mall just across the street from the train station to savor the famous pan-fried buns and a bowl of wonton soup to satiate our appetites. Then, we walked about 2 km to reach the hotel. To our surprise, the hotel we booked through Booking.com didn't accept foreign credit cards for payment. Despite the hotel not being an international brand, it had a significant market within China, with many locations nationwide. Cash was the only option for foreign guests without Alipay or WeChat Pay accounts. Luckily, we had brought enough cash to complete the check-in process.

In the afternoon, we visited Tianyi Pavilion, one of the oldest private libraries in the world. The scenic area was well-restored, but we felt like something was missing, as we didn't see any bookshelves, even in the most famous book collection building. After leaving Tianyi Pavilion, we visited Ningbo Tianning Temple, a Tang Dynasty tower. Initially, there were two pagodas, East and West, but now only the West Pagoda remains. Near Tianning Temple is the Drum Tower. Unfortunately, it was closed when we arrived so we couldn't go up. Despite this, we strolled along the vibrant pedestrian street adjacent to the Drum Tower, which brimmed with various food vendors, tempting us with different delectable treats.

Experiencing Ningbo cuisine is an essential part of our visit to Ningbo. Therefore, in the evening, we made our way to Zhuangyuanlou Restaurant to treat ourselves to an array of authentic Ningbo dishes. The restaurant not only delighted our taste buds with its delectable offerings but also impressed us with its top-notch service. It was indeed a culinary delight that left us with lasting memories of Ningbo's exquisite flavors.

Ningbo downtown was magnificent in the evening. We walked along the riverbank to the Old Bund, and coincidentally, there was a "Food Encounter" event taking place. The food festival on the riverside was bustling with people, offering various delicacies from different regions of Zhejiang and Central and Eastern European countries. Unfortunately, we were already full from dinner, so we could only enjoy the lively atmosphere. There were many street performers along the avenue, and we were especially drawn to the Yue Opera (Yueju), as it had been a long time since we last heard it. We sat nearby and listened for a long while; it was delightful.

As the night progressed, we hailed a taxi back to our hotel. The taxi driver shared that the crowd at the Old Bund would only grow more extensive and animated as the night wore on, especially after midnight. We couldn't help but feel a bit of regret for leaving the festivities earlier. However, not long after we returned to the hotel, heavy rain began to pour outside. Sometimes, as they say, quit while you're ahead. It was a memorable and eventful evening in Ningbo, filled with beautiful experiences and captivating cultural encounters.

May 17: We woke up to the gentle sound of raindrops in the morning. The rain continued throughout the day. Undeterred, we embarked on our adventure after enjoying a delicious breakfast at the hotel. We decided to take a taxi to Moon Lake Park, and perhaps due to the rainy weather, there were remarkably few visitors, creating an unusually peaceful atmosphere in the park. We strolled around the scenic Moon Lake to enjoy the beauty of a picturesque Jiangnan-style garden. Our next stop was the City God Temple, smaller and less populated than its Shanghai counterparts.

Not far from there is the modern and stunning Tianyi Square. Despite the downpour, we decided to brave the rain and explore the area further. We tried Zhoushan cuisine at a restaurant in Tianyi Shopping Center for lunch, which was quite good.

As we continued our exploration, we found Ningbo to be a city that beautifully blended modern sophistication with the captivating charm of Jiangnan cities of rich cultural heritage. Throughout the city, we were impressed by the high-quality street performances that added an artistic and vibrant touch to the ambiance. The elegant reading pavilions also gave us a glimmer of tranquility and culture, leaving a lasting and profound impression on us. Despite the rain, our day in Ningbo was filled with remarkable experiences that showcased the city's unique blend of tradition and modernity.

After we had visited some of the main attractions in downtown Ningbo, we spontaneously decided to visit the Hemudu Site, which is more than 20 kilometers outside the city. The Hemudu Site is an archaeological site dating back approximately 5,000 to 7,000 years, from the Neolithic period when our ancestors in Jiangnan started cultivating tea trees and rice. Most of the things we had seen during this trip before visiting Hemudu were replicas or restored, so witnessing authentic artifacts from 5,000 to 7,000 years ago was exhilarating. Connie's enthusiastic nephew accompanied us on the visit. After exploring the site, he attended us, walking over Langshu Bridge and visiting Qian Family Courtyard, Connie's dad's hometown, where her father spent his childhood. Although the ancestral home was now abandoned and in ruins, it still aroused our curiosity about the past. It was such an unfamiliar place for us, yet there was an inseparable connection to our existence.

Next, Connie's nephew drove us to Yuyao City, about 20 minutes away, and treated us to an authentic meal. We found the Yuyao cuisine more to our taste – fresh and not too greasy – and we had the chance to try many dishes for the first time. After bidding farewell to Connie's nephew, we took a 30-minute train back to Ningbo.

May 18: After having breakfast at the hotel, we boarded a high-speed train to leave Ningbo for Shaoxing. It took about 45 minutes to reach Shaoxing. When we checked into our hotel, we encountered the same issue of not accepting foreign credit cards. For lunch, we dined at a restaurant recommended by our taxi driver called "Xun Bao Ji," where we ordered local dishes, including "Qian Dao Rou Zheng Mei Qian Zhang," which the server warned us that this particular dish was very pungent and asked if we could handle it. We wanted to try it out since it's a famous local dish. Shaoxing rice wine is renowned for its aroma, but Shaoxing's pungent food is also well-known. The dish, "Mei Qian Zhang," is made from soybean sheet (百叶) soaked in stinkweed juice. We found it acceptable.

After the meal, we visited Lu Xun's former residence, ancestral home, memorial hall, and Sanwei Bookstore. Although the entrance to these sites was free, we had to register and make reservations through WeChat by scanning QR codes using mobile phones with real-name authentication. This process is not very user-friendly for visitors with foreign passports. Perhaps due to the large number of visitors or the smell of stinky tofu throughout the area, our impression of the Lu Xun Memorial Area was not very positive – it felt too commercialized and chaotic. We returned to the hotel for a rest after a long walk.

At night, we visited another restaurant the taxi driver recommended, "Xiao Shaoxing." The food was decent, but we felt that the "Xun Bao Ji," the restaurant we had for lunch, was better in taste and service. After dinner, we walked along the pedestrian street nearby, where there were many stinky tofu booths, but we didn't try. Instead, we had a bowl of sweet fermented rice. Wow, it was sweet and much better than what we found at Asia store back in the U.S. We also found a small coffee shop selling Latte with fermented rice, which caused our curiosity about its taste. We tried it and found it was pretty good, significantly when we added some of the sweet fermented rice we had just bought – it enhanced the flavor even more. Many coffee shops throughout the city sell Yellow Wine Coffee, like Irish Coffee but with the famous Shaoxing rice wine. Yellow Wine is a traditional Chinese fermented wine that originated in Shaoxing. But we didn't try it.

May 19: It was time for us to return to Shanghai. Perhaps because it was the weekend, getting train tickets back to Shanghai was challenging, and we could only get tickets for the 5:30 pm train. On the positive side, it gave us more time to explore Shaoxing. Early in the morning, we took a taxi to Lanting – the "Holy Land of Calligraphy" – outside Shaoxing. The park is situated at the foot of Mount Lanzhu, and alongside the scenic area, the park staff and tourists reenacted the scene of the great calligrapher Wang Xizhi and scholars drinking and composing poetry together, which was quite interesting. Of course, the "Preface to the Poems Composed at the Orchid Pavilion" by Wang Xizhi was everywhere. A short distance from the calligraphy park, inside the beautifully reconstructed Tianzhang Temple, we saw the ruins of the Song and Ming dynasties, which was a pleasant surprise. The Lanting Scenic Area is undoubtedly worth a visit.

After exploring the Lanting Scenic Area, we took a taxi to Keqiao Scenic Area. We first had a small meal at a local restaurant in Lutown, ordering braised duck and stir-fried lettuce. Lutown is a theme park in the scenic area, mainly centered around Lu Xun, one of the most influential figures in modern Chinese literature, but it's all newly constructed. It was popular with local and outside tourists.

After strolling around the town, we still had some time to spare before boarding the train, and we decided to visit the ancient Keqiao Stone Quarry from the Han Dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD) nearby. It is a theme park, including the artificial giant Buddha, cliff carvings, the Puzhao Chan Temple, etc. Each destination possessed its distinct charm, and we were delighted to find that the place was not overrun with visitors, allowing us to immerse ourselves fully in its uniqueness. We were the only two people in the temple.

Our late afternoon train back to Shanghai was packed, and even the connecting spaces between the carriages were filled with people. Several earlier trains had even sold out their standing tickets. When we finally arrived at Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station, we were taken aback by the large size of the crowd. The station seemed to overflow with passengers, and the usual exit checks were waived to expedite the departure process for the travelers.

5/16: 一早乘坐地铁去虹桥火车站赶高铁去宁波。现在什么事都是实名制，进出火车站的第一步就是查证件。持外国护照的乘客必需由安检人员人工核检。实际上，我们在买票时已经提供全部的护照信息，不知为什么每次进出车站都还要再次人工核检。

二个多小时后顺利达到宁波。先在车站附近的小扬生煎吃上二客生煎包和一碗小馄饨垫垫肚子，然后再去酒店入住。出人意料的是我们在国外网站上订的酒店居然不收国外信用卡。虽说酒店并非国际品牌，但在中国也不算小，遍布全国各地。对国外来的客人如果不能用外卡，又没有国内实名认证支付宝或者微信支付，就只剩现金支付了。亏得我们带了现金才办妥入住手续。

下午先去天一阁 - 世界上最古老的私人藏书楼之一。整个景区修复得不错，但总觉得缺少点什么东西，在最著名的藏书楼里连藏书架都没看到。 出了天一阁，来到中山路上的宁波天宁寺，这是一座唐代的塔，当时有东西二座塔，如今只剩西塔。天宁寺不远处便是鼓楼，只可惜刚到鼓楼就已是关门的时候了，没能上去。在鼓楼旁的步行街走一走，满街都是各种小吃。

来宁波吃宁波菜是必需的，晚上来到状元楼美餐一顿，品尝品尝宁波美食。这家饭店不仅菜做的好，服务也一流。

晚上的宁波市中心非常漂亮，我们沿着江边走到老外滩，正赶上“舌尖上的相遇”活动，沿江大道上人山人海，有来自浙江各地的美食位摊和中东欧国家的美食美酒。实在太可惜我们已酒足饭饱，只能看个热闹。在大道边，还有不少街头表演者，最吸引我们的是越剧，好久没听到越剧了。我们坐边上听了好久，真好听。坐出租车回酒店的路上听司机说老外滩那里越晚人越多，半夜过后才进入高潮，我们有点后悔是否回酒店太早了。结果到酒店后没多久，外面就下起倾盆大雨，有时还真该见好就收。

5/17: 清晨被雨声吵醒。今天一整天下雨，在酒店里用完早餐后就坐出租车去月湖公园。可能是因为下雨天，公园里游人寥寥无几，显得异常清静。公园是典型江南园林，沿着月湖转了一大圈后来到城隍庙，比起上海的城隍庙要小得多了。现代的天一广场也不远，很漂亮，我们冒着大雨去那里转了一圈。我们对宁波的印象是整洁，有现代化都市的气派又有江南水乡的风情人文。高水准的街头表演和雅致的读书亭都给我们留下了深刻的印象。

中午在天一购物中心里一家餐厅品尝了舟山菜，也不错。到此为止我们已在宁波市中心一些主要景点打了卡，我们临时决定下午去宁波城外二十多公里处的河姆渡遗址。河姆渡遗址是距今约五到七千年前，新石器时代，江南人类祖先居住的遗址。1973年才刚刚发现发掘。博物馆里展出了河姆渡和田螺山发掘出来的无数件史前的植物和陶器。六，七千年前，我们的祖先早已开始种植茶树和稻谷。这几天我们常说所看到的东西大多数都是复制的，今天能目睹了五到七千年前的真品有点兴奋。佩民热心的表侄子特意去遗址陪我们参观。看完遗址后，又带我们走过浪墅桥，走进一溪之隔的钱家大院，佩民的故乡，她爸爸的童年在那里渡过。老家虽早已人走楼空，只剩下破砖残瓦，却唤起我们对过去的好奇。对我们来说这是个多么陌生的地方，但又与我们的存在有着不可分隔的关联。

看完老家，佩民的侄子又开车带我们来到余姚请我们吃了一顿地道的余姚菜。我们觉得余姚菜更合我们的口味，鲜而不腻，品尝到不少第一。告别侄子，我们坐三十分钟的高铁回到宁波。

5/18：在酒店吃完早餐后便乘坐高铁离开宁波前往绍兴。大约45分钟左右我们就来到了绍兴。在入住旅馆时，再次遇上了不收外卡。中午在出租车司机推荐的寻宝记饭店用餐，点了本地菜，其中一道叫千刀肉蒸霉千张，服务员特地告诉我们非常臭，问我们是否能受得了。我们是闻名而来，就想试一下。绍兴的酒是香的，但绍兴的臭也很有名。臭苋菜梗是绍兴臭之最，霉千张是泡过臭苋菜梗的百页，我们觉得这菜还能接受。

饭后去参观了鲁迅故居，祖居，纪念馆和三味书屋。门票虽是免费的，但必须微信扫码登记预约，对国外来的游客来说很不方便。也许是参观的游客太多，也许是满街臭豆腐的味，对鲁迅纪念区的印象不是很好，太杂太商业化了。我们走得也很累，回旅馆小休后就去出租车司机推荐的另一家饭店-小绍兴吃晚餐，味道还行，但感觉中午的寻宝记饭店在口味，服务上很胜－筹。

饭后去附近的步行街走走，好多臭豆腐店。闻到了酒酿香，很小的一个摊位，要了一碗，非常甜。又看见一家小咖啡馆卖桂花酒酿拿铁，好奇会是什么样的口味，来上一杯，味道还真不错，尤其是我们自己又再多加了些刚买的甜酒酿，味道更好。

5/19：今天打道回府。也许因为是周末，回上海的车票一票难求，只能买到下午五点半回上海的高铁票，倒也正好让我们多些时间再看看绍兴。 一大早打车去绍兴城外的兰亭 －＂书法圣地＂。在兰渚山下，曲水流觞景点边，园区工作人员和游客们一起重现书圣王羲之和学士们饮酒作诗之景，有点意思，当然王羲之的兰亭集序到处都是。在造建优美的天章寺里，看到了宋，明朝代的遗址也算是一个惊喜。兰亭景区非常值得一去。

走完兰亭风景区后，又打车去柯岩风景区，先在鲁镇上小餐馆点上二个菜，鲁镇酱鸭和炒莴笋。鲁镇是在风景区里以鲁迅为主的主题公园，都是新建的，碰到不少旅游团队。在镇上转了一大圈后，看时间还有多，就去了边上的柯岩 - 汉朝采石遗址，人工大佛，摩崖题刻，云骨和普昭禅寺等景点都有点特色，游人也不多。

傍晚回上海的火车爆满，车厢连接处都站满了人，下午早些时候有几班火车连站票都售罄。到上海虹桥火车站时更是吓了一大跳，人山人海，车站挤满了乘客，人工检票出站通道直接免检放客了。

我们玩得开心，但没有老爸的文学造诣，我们就请ChatGPT为我们宁波、绍兴行作七律诗一首，经过几次磋商和修改，在此分享：

梦中常作绍甬游，初探风情足迹留。天一阁里览珍献，月湖烟波风拂柳。

天宁古塔耸犹在，外滩夜市灯火流。鲁家故园唤思绪，兰亭风韵泛诗愁。

河姆遗址悠远存，钱家大院驻心头。状元楼上共欢饮，珊瑚情缘永不休。

Zhenjiang/Yangzhou 镇江/扬州

May 9: Chenggang's dad always talked about wanting to visit Zhenjiang and Yangzhou with us. Today, his wish finally came true. Early in the morning, a Ctrip chauffeured car came to pick us up at home. We hired a private driver for 10 hours and 300 km for today’s one-way trip to Yangzhou. The weather was beautiful, and everyone in the family was thrilled as the five of us, including Chenggang's parents and his sister, set off on our journey.

We made a short stop at the Yangcheng Lake service area, which is like a rest area along the highway in the US but much fancier. The luxurious amenities, including specialty restaurants, shops, and a traditional Chinese garden, surprised us. It exceeded the typical pit stop and provided a delightful break during our journey.

Then we headed to Zhenjiang's ancient Xijin ferry terminal. It is a famous historic ferry crossing over the Yangtze River. Near the crossing site was a bustling old town for people to trade, eat and shop in those days. However, today the actual ferry crossing site is buried under the ground and is separated from the river by a comprehensive four-lane road. We could still see the ancient ferry site through the glass panel protection at several locations. But the old town area thrives more than ever. It has undergone a revitalization, embracing traditional-style architecture for its shops, restaurants, and historical buildings.

It was lunchtime, and our driver suggested a restaurant, and he only indicated a general direction for the restaurant. Following his advice, we leisurely walked along the old town's main street, which had a slight up Incline. We worried about our 90-year-old parents and whether they could handle it since it was the first real trip in 4 years. But they were in high spirits and determined to proceed. Google Maps showed us that the restaurant was not too far away, but we couldn't see the restaurant nearby. As we looked down over the cliff, we noticed a flat plaza approximately 20 meters below where the restaurant was situated. To reach it, we had two options: either walk down about sixty steps or return the way we came. Surprisingly, Mom and Dad, who don't usually venture out much, effortlessly descended sixty steps, which both worried and amazed us. Their energy and enthusiasm were admirable. Eventually, we arrived at the restaurant and relished our first taste of Zhenjiang Cuisine, which turned out to be absolutely delicious.

After being satisfied with the delicious lunch, we walked to the Old Wharf Cultural Park, near the restaurant where we just had lunch. It was a beautiful area with statues and the ancient ferry site protected by glass panels.  

Before we drove over the bridge across the Yangtze River to YangZhou, we asked the driver to take us to another popular tourist attraction, Jinshan Park. Unfortunately, the nearest parking lot was full, so the driver dropped us at the front entrance. After a glimpse of the park map and the park at the gate, we felt it might be too much walking for our parents to reach the Jinshan Temple, a renowned Buddhist temple. We decided to skip this park and continued our journey to Yangzhou after captured a few pictures. We crossed the Yangtze River to reach Yangzhou Geyuan, a traditional Chinese rock garden. The garden features various pavilions, halls, rocks, and a lot of bamboo. The Chinese Character, Ge (个), symbolizes the bamboo leaf, and GeYuan in Chinese implicitly means Bamboo Garden. But unfortunately, the inside of the garden was overcrowded, and we didn't stay long and quickly exited the park.

At 5:30 pm, we checked in at Slender West Lake Hot Spring Resort. The dinner was at the Yangzhou Banquet next to the hotel, and we enjoyed Huaiyang cuisine with the accompaniment of guqin music.

May 10: Two of us got up early and explored the nearby area around the resort. The streets were sparsely populated, and it was evident that the local government had put considerable effort into building this culturally rich food street. After a thorough stroll, we headed to Yangzhou's top-rated breakfast spot, Qu Garden Tea House, where we had to wait for nearly an hour before being seated. Unfortunately, the food quality and service of the breakfast were a bit disappointing.

After breakfast, we explored the renowned Slender West Lake scenic area. Dad was particularly excited to visit the Twenty-Four Bridges mentioned in Du Mu's poem. The arched bridge had been recently reconstructed with a modern creative imagination deviated from the ancient bridges from the region. Again, it required many steps to climb over the bridge. Despite our initial hesitation, Dad's enthusiasm was unwavering, and he insisted on crossing it. To our surprise, Mom and Dad confidently walked over the Twenty-Four Bridges and struck another small bridge to reach the boat dock. Their energy and spirit amazed us, making the visit more memorable and enjoyable.

We took a boat ride on Slender West Lake through the Wuting Bridge and arrived at the South Gate. Again, Dad and Mom walked up the hill. From there, we boarded a sightseeing car to White Tower, where we took a break and got ice cream for Mom and other snacks for the rest. Then we strolled through the Wuting Bridge. We truly admired Mom and Dad for their efforts in going through all the climbing ups and downs of the bridges and hills. After all, they seemed thrilled since it was their first trip in four years.

We continued our journey in the park as Mom and Dad returned to the hotel with Chenggang's sister. Away from the popular tourist attractions in the park, there were fewer tourists, and we were immersed in the natural beauty of landscapes combining land and water, presenting a beautiful painting of nature. The scenic area was stunning, and we wish we could spend more time there.

After finishing our exploration of the Slender West Lake, while Mom and Dad rested in the room, we went to soak in the hot springs to relax. For dinner, we sought the advice of the hotel's driver and went to the restaurant he recommended in the city center. It turned out to be fantastic, with excellent value for money.

May 11: Today, we headed back home from Yangzhou. Our train was in the afternoon. Since Mom and Dad were still in high spirits after breakfast, we strolled around the nearby Qu Garden scenic area for another hour. For lunch, we had a delicious meal at the Tea House before taking the high-speed train back to Shanghai.

Dad had a great time, and his poetic inspiration flourished during our trip to Zhenjiang and Yangzhou. He composed a poem in a seven-character rhythm to share his feelings. We asked ChatGPT to translate it into English. Here it is:

In this fleeting world, so vast and wide,

In the twilight years, we seek Yangzhou's side.

At Xijin Ferry, history we trace,

Stroll Twenty-Four Bridges with easy grace.

A spring breeze caresses Yang's pathways wide,

Our cherished kinship, love does reside.

With joy and harmony, age turns young,

As blessings from above, like stars, are flung.

(Note: The translation maintains the essence and meaning of the original poem while adapting it to English. Chinese poetry often relies on the natural rhythm and beauty of the Chinese language, which can be challenging to capture fully in translation.)

5/9: 老爸常说要带我们去镇江扬州看看，今天终于如愿以偿。好天气，好心情，一家人高高兴兴去旅行。一早携程专车来家接我们，先到阳澄湖服务区小休一会儿，然后来到镇江西津渡走走，在司机推荐的周家二小姐的菜餐馆品尝镇江佳肴。平时已很少出门的老爸老妈居然轻松地直下五，六十级台阶，着实让我们又担心又惊喜。跨过长江来到扬州个园，小小的竹园应该说是很漂亮，可惜里面游客人满为患，没待多久就匆匆离去 。入住瘦西湖温泉度假村，已到晚餐时间，来到酒店旁的扬州宴，在古琴乐的伴奏下享受着淮扬美食。

5/10: 大清早我们俩先去度假村附近走走。街上行人稀少，看得出来当地政府花了不少精力建造了这条文化美食街。转完一大圈后就去酒店附近的扬州顶级早点店－趣园茶社拿号，人还真不少，我们等了近一小时后才入坐。可能是期望太高了，我们对这家店的扬州早点的质量和服务都有点失望。

早餐后，来到著名的瘦西湖风景名胜区游玩，按老爸的意思我们直奔杜牧诗中的二十四桥，但新建的这座桥完全是现代人的想象。到了桥边，看着台阶再看着二老，我们有点犹豫，但老爸却来了兴致，坚持要上。二老不仅轻松地走过二十四桥，过桥后又走过另一小桥来到船码头。我们坐游船穿越五亭桥来到南大门，又从南大门坐观光车来到白塔，在那里小休后，又徒步过五亭桥。今天真佩服二老，上上下下走了不少。看得出他们很兴奋，毕竟四年来第一次外出旅行。整个景区很漂亮，陆路和水道并行，到处都是一幅美丽的山水画卷。

游完瘦西湖后，二老回房休息，我们去泡温泉轻松一下。晚餐请教了酒店的司机，去了一家他推荐的餐厅，果然不错，价廉物美。

5/11: 今天从扬州打道回府，因为是下午的火车，吃完早餐后，二老依然游兴未尽，又去酒店附近的趣园景区里整整走了一个小时。中午在乐园茶社美餐一顿后，坐高铁回上海。

老爸玩得开心，诗兴大发，为镇江，扬州行作七律诗一首，在此分享：

自叹尘世忽悠悠，暮年时节访扬州。

西津渡口探幽古，二十四桥漫步走。

十里春风润扬路，百般呵護亲情郁。

其乐融融老变小，胜如上苍许赐佑。

Taipei 台北

April 26: It's been nearly a month since we set foot in South Korea on April 1, and today we embarked on a flight from Seoul to Taipei. After checking out of our hotel in the morning, we arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare. Before proceeding to the gate, we enjoyed noodles and steamed dumplings at the airport restaurant. While contemplating how to make the most of our time, we suddenly remembered having access to the Priority Lounge. The lounge offered plenty of food and drinks. Since we just ate, we decided to skip all the delicious food items and take a break in the lounge with just a cup of coffee. Hours later, we finally indulged in some light snacks before departing. We came to the gate, and when we lined up for boarding, we encountered an unexpected obstacle – we were asked if we had tickets to leave Taiwan. Our initial plan was to purchase tickets to Shanghai after arriving in Taipei, but we were not allowed to board the flight without tickets. Consequently, we had no choice but to purchase two tickets from Taipei to Shanghai on the spot, at the gate, then proceed with boarding.

Upon arriving at Taoyuan Airport in Taipei, we took the airport metro to the city center, which was fast and convenient. After getting off at Taipei Station, we took a taxi to our hotel, the Taipei Garden Hotel. Though the flight from Seoul to Taipei was only a little over two hours, the journey from leaving the hotel in Seoul to checking into the hotel in Taipei took almost twelve hours.

Since we didn't eat anything on the plane, after a short rest at the hotel, we quickly went out to the nearby Taipei Huaxi Night Market, also known as Longshan Temple Night Market, one of Taipei's most famous night markets. It's located near Longshan Temple and is a popular spot for tourists and locals. This night market is renowned for its long history and abundant variety of delicious food. The atmosphere was lively, brimming with unique Taiwanese culture and flavors. Huaxi Night Market has many authentic Taiwanese delicacies, including snacks, barbecues, seafood, fried chicken cutlets, tofu pudding, and pastries. We noticed a long queue outside Yuanfang Guabao, a shop that claimed to be listed in the Michelin Guide. We joined the crowd and waited in line to try their guabao, a traditional Taiwanese dish called "pork belly bun." It consists of a tender pork belly, crushed peanuts, and pickled vegetables sandwiched in a soft and chewy bun—a truly rich and delicious flavor. We couldn't resist trying stinky tofu, a beloved Taiwanese delicacy. The distinct aroma permeated the air as we wandered through the night market. While the taste was enjoyable, it didn't match the flavors we fondly remembered from childhood. We then headed to the seafood area, where various stalls displayed an assortment of seafood and vegetables cooked right on the spot. We chose a relatively clean stall that offered pea shoots and clams, which we ordered. It had been a long time since we had such delicious garlic pea shoots and stir-fried clams.

April 27: We woke up early and craved salty soy milk and fried dough sticks, our favorite Chinese breakfast. We selected a nearby breakfast shop based on online reviews. The shop was small and old, but the salty soy milk and fried dough sticks were decent. After breakfast, we called a taxi and went to the National Palace Museum. The museum houses a vast collection of precious Chinese cultural artifacts, including paintings, porcelain, jade, and calligraphy, all brought to Taiwan by the Kuomintang. Many valuable items were on display, and we simply enjoyed the spectacle since we were not experts. It was a pity that the most popular Jadeite Cabbage was on exhibit in Tainan, but the Meat-shaped Stone, a jade carving resembling braised pork belly, was still there.

We had our lunch at the museum's restaurant. After the meal, we took a taxi to the Shilin Palace, which was the official residence of President Chiang Kai-shek during his time in Taiwan. The garden landscape surrounding the Shilin Palace was gorgeous. It was adorned with meticulously trimmed flowers, plants, and picturesque small bridges with flowing creeks, making it a perfect place to unwind and relax. Especially noteworthy was the well-maintained rose garden inside the park. The palace building itself might be considered relatively simple by today's standards.

When we arrived, the ticket office staff was on their lunch break, so we first took a stroll around the park. Inside the Shilin Palace, visitors can explore the interiors of the presidential office, drawing room, banquet hall, and other official residences, gaining valuable insights into Taiwan's history and politics. However, it's worth noting that the entire tour seemed to revolve around trivial aspects of Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Meiling's love affair rather than delving into their profound influence on Taiwan. Despite this, the experience provided a unique glimpse into the past.

Then we took a taxi to Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. Inside the memorial hall, there was a changing of the guards' ceremony. After watching it, we visited Liberty Square outside the memorial hall. The Memorial Hall and the entrance archways on Liberty Square combined Western and Chinese architectural styles, characterized by white buildings with blue roofs, exuding a sense of solemnity. In contrast, the National Theater and Concert Hall on both sides of the square were completely Chinese-style, with yellow tiles and red columns, representing a vibrant and lively atmosphere, contrasting with the dignified and clean Memorial Hall.

Dining in Ding Tai Fung when in Taipei is a must-do thing. This world-famous chain is known for its steamed dumplings, and Taipei is its birthplace. We went to the Ding Tai Fung near the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, which was packed with people. We got our ticket, waited for more than an hour before being seated, and tried the steamed dumplings and other items. The taste was similar to the Ding Tai Fung in the United States, so it was a satisfying experience. Afterward, we returned to the Memorial Hall, which had already closed for the day, so the Liberty Square was empty and serene. We walked around a small park nearby, where the bridges and flowing water looked stunning in the evening glow of the sunset.

We went to Ximending Night Market in the evening, which was bustling with people. We couldn't miss trying the famous Boba milk tea from the Happytahn tea shop. After watching how they made the tiny Boba, we had our Boba milk tea. The freshly made ones tasted different and delicious. Then, we tried to get an egg pancake at another popular shop, which also waited a long time. The Ximending market was filled with young people.

April 28: We started the day by visiting the Presidential Office Building near our hotel. As we went early, there were few tourists, but many primary school students were on field trips. Next, we went to the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall and explored the exhibition about Sun Yat-sen's life, learning a lot from it. The hall also had several exhibitions of calligraphy and paintings by locals, from experts to school students, and we admired the artistic talents of Taiwanese people.

Next, we went to Taipei 101 but didn't go to the top. Instead, we had a simple lunch there, trying the famous one Michelin star Oil Chicken Rice. It tasted decent. After just a few days in Taiwan, we noticed that there were quite a few Michelin-rated small shops in Taipei.

Guangzhou Street is not far from our hotel. Behind Guangzhou Street is a lane known as the Bopiliao Historic Block. During the Japanese colonial period, this area was called "Bopiliao" because it was filled with leather workshops, and "Bopiliao" means "peeling leather." It is one of Taipei's best-preserved and most representative historical neighborhoods, featuring rich historical buildings and cultural heritage, including old houses, shops, temples, and community facilities. What caught our attention was a display about healthcare workers and volunteers fighting against the COVID-19 pandemic. It deeply moved us to see that people were preserving these unforgettable memories. Although this place might not be on the top tourist destination list, we found it to be a very worthwhile place to visit.

Longshan Temple, also known as Huaxi Temple, is a famous Buddhist temple in Taipei and one of the city's oldest and most representative temples. It attracts many tourists and devotees for worship and visits. The temple's architectural style combines Southern Chinese and Fujian styles with exquisite decorations and elaborate carvings. Devotees were seen purchasing bags of rice and fruits to offer. When we arrived at Longshan Temple, we were lucky to witness the faithful reciting scriptures in a loud and synchronized manner, creating a profound and touching experience in the temple.

Shilin Night Market is Taipei's top-ranked night market and a tourist must-visit spot. We took the metro to the night market and tried fried fresh milk, spicy cold noodles recommended by Michelin, and Shanghai-style pan-fried buns. After exploring the night market, we took the metro back to the area near the Presidential Office Building, passing through the 228 Peace Memorial Park and enjoying the nighttime scenery.

After returning to the hotel, we felt we hadn't eaten enough tonight. We sneaked out and found the same restaurant we had visited a few days ago at Huaxi Street Night Market. We ordered the same dishes, garlic pea shoots and stir-fried clams, and also had a bottle of beer, celebrating our soon-to-end Taiwan trip.

April 29: The day has finally come. Today, we are leaving Taipei and flying to Shanghai to reunite with our family. Our hearts are filled with excitement. After breakfast, we called a taxi to Taipei Main Station and took the airport express to Taoyuan Airport. We still had some time to spare upon arrival, so we went to the Priority lounge, had a latte, some snacks, and rested while closely watching the flight information, but the boarding process was delayed. Finally, the announcement for boarding was made, and we hurried to the boarding gate. As we were rushing to the gate, we heard the announcement for the final boarding call, making us anxious. We quickly made our way to the gate. The boarding gate was empty except for the two of us. Whatever the reason was, we hurriedly boarded the plane. Once on board, we discovered that the aircraft had only around twenty passengers, and in the back section where we were seated, it was just the two of us and one more passenger. The flight attendants were very attentive and had little to do. Two hours later, we successfully arrived at Shanghai Pudong Airport and quickly passed through immigration. We could sense the impact of the pandemic, as there were few planes and even fewer passengers, with very few foreign tourists.

We were going home, finally. Chenggang wanted to give his parents a surprise. Unfortunately, the driver did not accept cash when the taxi arrived downstairs at his parents' apartment because he had no change. Without other payment methods, such as WeChat Pay or Alipay, Chenggang had no choice but to call his parents to come down and pay for his taxi fare. What a true "surprise." Separated for over three years due to pandemic restrictions, we had longed for each other and were also filled with regret. Finally, we could embrace each other with joy and touching emotions, hoping the relentless separation would not happen again.

4月26日: 来韩国已近一个月，今天从首尔飞去台北，上午退房后就早早去了机场，先在机场的餐厅吃了点面条和蒸饺后，就去了侯机厅。离飞机起飞还有好几个小时，正琢磨着怎么打发时间时，突然想起我们还有贵宾休息室的票。来到休息室，里面有吃有喝的，可惜我们刚在外面吃完，那就先好好休息一下，直到离开前才稍微吃了点零食。到了登机口排队登机时居然被拦下来，问我们有没有离开台湾的机票。我们原本准备到了台北之后再买回上海的票，结果没票不让上飞机，没办法只好在登机口临时买了两张台北飞上海的机票这才让我们登机。

到达台北桃园机场后，乘坐机场到台北城中心的地铁，又快又方便。在台北车站下车后，叫了辆出租车来到我们的酒店 - 台北花园大酒店。其实从首尔飞到台北才二个多小时，但我们从离开首尔的旅馆一直到入住台北的酒店，前后总共花了近十二个小时。

在飞机上我们没吃任何东西，入住台北的酒店，稍微休息一下后， 就赶紧外出去了附近的台北华西街夜市（Taipei Huaxi Night Market），又称龙山寺夜市，是台湾台北市最有名的夜市之一。它位于龙山寺附近，是游客和本地居民喜欢光顾的热门地点。这个夜市以其悠久的历史和丰富的美食而闻名。夜市非常热闹，充满了独特的台湾文化和风味。在华西街夜市，你可以品尝到各种道地的台湾美食，包括小吃、烧烤、海鲜、炸鸡排、豆花、糕点等。看到在源芳刈包店外排着长队，门口挂着牌说这店上过米其林榜，我们也凑热闹排队来一份。刈包是台湾的传统美食，也被称为割包。它是用软糯的包子皮夹着红烧肉、花生粉、腌菜等配料而成。口感丰富，味道的确鲜美。台湾的臭豆腐也是不能不吃的，一路走着都能闻到香味。味道不错，但总觉得与记忆中儿时那种味道相比较，还是少了点什么。接着来到海鲜区，每个摊位将各种海鲜以及各种蔬菜摆放在那里，旁边放个炉子，现点现做。我们选了家稍干净的摊位看到有豆苗和蛤蜊，便坐下各叫了一份。真是好久没吃到这么好吃的蒜茸豆苗和炒蛤蜊了。

4月27日: 一早起来想吃豆浆油条，便去附近找早餐店。看了网上的评论，来到一家又小又破旧的店，各要了一碗咸豆浆和油条，味道还算可以。之后叫了一辆出租车前往故宫博物馆。博物馆收藏了大量珍贵的中国文物，包括绘画、瓷器、玉器、书法等，都是当时国民党来台带过来的，好东西不少，当然我们是外行看热闹。很可惜最热门的翠玉白菜正在台南展出, 没看到，但肉形石, 一块外形酷似红烧肉的玉石雕刻, 还在那里。

午餐我们就在博物馆里的餐厅里解决了。饭后坐出租车去了士林宫邸, 是蒋中正总统在台湾时期的官邸。士林宫邸周围的园林景观非常优美，有精心修剪的花草植物和小桥流水，是一个放松身心的好地方，特别是里面的月季花园修的不错。宫邸建筑按照现在标准的话，算是比较简陋了。我们到那里时票房工作人员正好午休没在，我们就先在公园转了一圈。在士林宫邸，你可以参观总统办公室、会客厅、宴会厅等官邸内部，了解台湾的历史和政治。但整个参观过程都围绕蒋介石和宋美龄夫妻相爱琐事展开的，避开他们夫妇俩对中国台湾的影响。

看完士林宫邸，又坐地铁去了中正纪念堂。进入纪念堂大厅正好碰上换岗仪式，看完之后来到纪念堂外面的自由广场。中正纪念堂及自由广场牌楼都是中西融合的建筑，白色为主体加以蓝顶，非常的庄严肃静。而在自由广场上两侧的国家戏剧院和音乐厅就完全是中国式的黄瓦红柱，华丽活泼，与庄严洁净的纪念堂有着明显对比。

都说来台北一定要尝尝这里的鼎泰丰。这家以卖小笼包享誉世界的连锁店，台北是它的发源地。来到中正纪念堂附近的鼎泰丰，慕名而来的人真不少。拿号等座，足足等了一个多小时才入座，味道与美国的鼎泰丰没区别，反正也算是了却了一个心愿吧。吃完又走回到中正纪念堂，因为纪念堂已关门，整个自由广场空空荡荡。我们在边上的小公园里走走，小桥流水在夕阳映照下非常漂亮。

晚上去了西门町夜市，那里是人山人海。幸福堂珍珠奶茶店门口人挤人，我们先是看一粒粒小珍珠是怎么做出来的，然后再买上一杯奶茶。现做的小珍珠就是不一样，味道好极了。接着又在另一个网红店要了份鸡蛋饼，也是等了好久。这里是年轻人的世界。

4月28日: 今天先去酒店附近的总统府，因为早去，游客不多，但有很多小学生在那里参观。然后就去了国父纪念堂，仔细参观了孙中山生平事迹的展览，了解了不少。纪念堂大楼里还设有不少书画展览，我们在那里欣赏台湾同胞们的艺术才华。

接着去了台北101，没上楼顶，就在那里吃了一顿简单的午餐。尝试了一下号称世界首家米其林一星小贩的油鸡饭，味道还行。才来台湾几天， 感觉台湾上米其林榜的小店不少。

回到离住的酒店不远的广州街，在广州街后面，有一条巷子是剥皮寮历史街区（Bopiliao Historic Block）。在日治时期，这个街区被称为“剥皮寮”，因为当时有许多制革作坊，而“剥皮”指的是制革的过程。这是台北市保存最完整、最具代表性的历史街区之一，保留了丰富的历史建筑和文化遗产，包括古老的街屋、商铺、神庙和社区设施等。最有意思的是，在这个历史街区中，还展示了当时台湾医护人员和志愿者们抗击新冠疫情的情景，让我们深受感动。这是我们第一次看到人们已经开始将这段涉及到世界每一个人的难以忘怀的历史以实体方式保留下来。尽管这个地方不在那些首选旅游目的地的榜单上，我们觉得这是一个非常值得一游的地方。

华西寺（又称龙山寺）是台湾台北市著名的佛教寺庙，也是该市最古老且最具代表性的寺庙之一。它吸引着众多游客和信徒前来参观和参拜。寺庙的建筑风格融合了南洋与福建的传统风格，装饰精美，雕刻华丽。信徒在寺庙里购买大包小包的大米和水果供奉。我们到龙山寺时，恰好看到全寺庙的信徒们在大声朗诵经文，那宏亮且齐声的声音在寺庙中回荡，非常震撼和感人。

士林夜市是台北排名第一的夜市，是来台北观光必去的地方。我们坐地铁前往夜市，尝试了炸鲜奶，品尝了米其林推荐的麻辣凉面，还试了一下上海生煎包。夜市逛完后，坐地铁回到总统府附近，还顺便穿过228和平纪念公园，欣赏了一下夜景。

回到酒店后，总觉得还没吃够。晚上我们又溜出去，在华西街夜市里找到了前几天去过的小店，点了同样的菜——蒜茸豆苗和炒蛤蜊，再加上一瓶啤酒，庆祝一下即将结束的台湾行。

4月29日：这一天终于到来了。今天要离开台北，飞往上海与家人团聚，心情非常激动。上午吃完早餐后，我们叫了出租车去台北火车站，然后乘坐机场专车前往桃园机场。抵达机场时，还有一些时间，于是我们前往贵宾候机室，喝杯拿铁，吃些点心，稍作休息，同时一直密切关注航班信息，但登机却迟迟未开始。终于宣布开始登机，我们赶紧前往登机口。急匆匆走着，才几分钟就突然听到广播喊着最后登机，让我们非常着急，飞快赶到登机口。登机口空无一人，只有我们两人。不论原因何在，我们匆忙登机。上了飞机后才发现整个大飞机只有二十多位乘客，我们所坐的后半部分飞机只有我们俩和另外一位乘客。乘务员们闲得没事干，非常热心，不停地问我们需要什么。两个多小时后，我们顺利抵达上海浦东机场，很快过了海关。能感受到疫情的影响，飞机少，乘客少，外国游客更是寥寥无几。

终于要回家了，成刚原本想给爸妈一个惊喜，可出租车到了楼下，司机却说不收现金因为没零钱找，而成刚又没微信支付或支付宝，没办法只能打电话让他爸妈下楼帮忙付车费， 还真是一个”惊喜” 了。由于新冠疫情的限制，三年多的分隔，有着无丝的思念牵挂和遗憾。终于能再次团聚，给爸妈一个深情的大拥抱，充满喜悦和感动的时刻，也希望这无情的分隔不会再来。