Longyearbyen, Svalbard (Lat. 78.22 deg) 北纬78.22度

June 18: The day we had eagerly anticipated had finally arrived. After visiting the Antarctic, we had always yearned to explore the Arctic as well. Longyearbyen, located on the Svalbard islands, was the closest inhabited town to the North Pole and a place frequented by polar bears. Legends and tales of mysteries shrouded this remote town, where polar bears were said to outnumber human residents. Stories circulated about the need to carry rifles when going out, elderly or terminally ill people being required to leave to avoid dying on the island, and childbirths necessitating a return to the mainland due to limited medical facilities. The image of Longyearbyen in our minds was of a sparsely populated Arctic town covered in pristine snow, and visiting there filled us with a sense of adventure.

Beyond the polar bears, Svalbard was also known for its walrus sightings. Although our booked ship excursion to observe walruses had been canceled, we searched the internet for local alternatives. Unfortunately, most tours were fully booked, leaving us to wait and see what opportunities awaited upon our arrival.

The ship docked at nine in the morning, and we hurriedly got off. Fortuitously, we came across a 16-person tourist minivan with three available seats, and we quickly hopped on. The driver, also our guide, took us on a tour around the town and its surroundings. We learned that coal mining was a significant industry besides tourism in Longyearbyen, as the coal deposits here were of exceptional purity. Due to the heavy fog that day, the scenic beauty of the valleys remained obscured during our journey up the mountains.

Our guide also showed us the church and a dog yard where huskies were kept. Yet, the highlight of our trip was the Global Seed Vault, where seeds of major crops from all over the world were stored. This facility was a safeguard in emergencies or global disasters and had already been used twice. Before this visit, we had never heard of such an international seed bank, and we now recognized the importance of such a repository, especially after the COVID-19 pandemic.

After the three-hour tour, our overall impression was that Longyearbyen resembled an antiquated mining town with hardly a trace of polar bears, at least in the area we visited. It lacked the allure and charm of the quaint fishing villages in Northern Norway, but perhaps visiting during winter would offer a different perspective.

After lunch on the ship, we prepared to explore the town center. As we walked out of the ship's dock, we noticed many tourists waiting to board the yachts next to us. These tourists had booked their excursions from local agencies months in advance, and naturally, all spots were taken. However, we didn't lose hope and patiently waited for last-minute opportunities. To our surprise, we managed to secure a place on one of the yachts. The excursion took us to the other side of the bay to observe the glaciers. There, we had the pleasure of sighting numerous walruses and seabirds. This yacht excursion was quite similar to the one we had booked on the ship, yet the price of our two tickets was lower than what one person had paid on the ship. As the saying goes, when one door closes, another one opens. The four-hour glacier and walrus excursion was genuinely worthwhile.

Today, we consider ourselves incredibly fortunate to have the chance to participate in two local excursions. Our only regret was not being able to see the polar bears, but perhaps we would have to venture to even more northern regions on a future expedition.

6/18: 北纬78.22度(Longyearbyen)

梦想已久的一天终于到来了。自从去过南极后，一直想到北极转转。在Svalbard 岛屿上的Longyearbyen 是离北极最近的可居住的小镇，北极熊常常出没的地方。据说在岛上的北极熊比常住居民还多，各种传说给这个遥远的小镇披上了神秘的面纱。什么外出必须带长枪， 老年人或有不治之症的人必须离开，不能死在岛上。因为医疗条件差，生育也必须回到大陆去。想像中的Longyearbyen 镇是人烟稀少白雪覆盖的北极小镇，去那里有一种探险的感觉。

除了北极熊之外，Svalbard岛屿也是海象出没的地方。自从游轮把我们订的出海看海象游取消后，我们开始在网上寻找当地的旅游项目，但是绝大多数项目都满客了，我们只能到达之后见机行事。

早晨九点船靠码头，我们匆匆下船，正好碰上一辆16人旅游面包车还有三个空位，我们赶紧上车。司机兼导游带着我们在小镇周围山上山下兜了一圈。除了旅游业外，煤矿是他们主要工业，这里煤矿石是非常纯的，导游带我们看了几个煤矿。因为今天雾很大，上山后看不到山谷的美景。又带我们去看了教堂和养哈士奇狗的地方。对我们来说，最有意思的是全球种子保存库，世界各地都将一些主要农作物的种子存放在那里。在紧急情况下或全球大灾难时，可以取回存放在那里的种子，据说已用过2次。之前从来没听说过有这个全球粮食种子库的事，现在想想还真应该有这样的保存库。三个小时一圈下来总的感觉是Longyearbyen就像一个陈旧的矿镇，北极熊的影子都没有。小镇远没有北挪威小渔村那种美丽魅力，也许冬天来这里会有不同感受。

回船吃午餐后，准备去镇中心看看。走出船码头后看到不少游客正在等待上旁边的游艇，他们都是几个月前就订好的，当然船已订满了。但是我们不放弃，希望有人没来，我们耐心地等待着，最后还真的让我们上船了。游艇带着我们去海湾对面的冰川。在那里，看到了不少海象和海雀。这个游艇的行程与我们在船上订的很相似，但我们俩人的船票却比我们在船上订的最后被取消的一个人的价钱还便宜，正是常说一扇门关了说不定另一扇门就开了。这四个小时冰川和海象游是非常值得。

今天我们算是非常幸运的，能够有机会参与二个当地的旅游项目。这次唯一的遗憾是没看到北极熊，也许下次再来要坐探险船去更北的地方。

North Cape (Lat. 71.15 deg) and at Sea 北纬71.15度

June 16: We woke up to find our ship had docked in the small town of Honningsvåg, the northernmost town on the Norwegian mainland. Although the town is small, it is a popular stop for many ships touring the Arctic Circle due to its proximity to the renowned North Cape. Honningsvåg also offered a unique treat – the chance to savor fresh Arctic king crab.

After breakfast, we got off the ship and headed to the tourist information center in the town to gather some insights before exploring. We purchased tickets for a local tour bus to take us to the North Cape at 11:15 am. It seemed that most visitors to this town had the same destination in mind.

Still having a few hours to spare, we explored the city, strolled along the seaside, and visited the city park. The quaint streets showcased typical Northern European charm with a church, a lighthouse, colorful fishing boats, and more, creating a picturesque Nordic fishing village setting.

The journey to North Cape wasn't too far, about forty minutes driving distance, revealing the distinct Arctic Circle landscape features along the way – vast and barren, occasionally spotting a few reindeer. Upon arriving at North Cape, we were surprised that the area was bustling with tourists. The parking lot was brimming with big tour buses, RVs, and private cars. The visitor center offered amenities like a restaurant, souvenir shops, and a cinema that continuously screens short films about the Arctic. Although an entrance fee was required to access the center, which our excursion tickets did include, no one checked at the entrance, relying solely on the visitors' honesty. We watched the short film and then proceeded to the park to capture memorable moments at several viewpoints, marking our visit to this iconic destination.

Returning to the town in the afternoon, we rushed to the restaurant for the king crab, which the staff at the tourist information center recommended. To our disappointment, the restaurant was closed. Back at the information center, the staff suggested another option, a Thai restaurant instead. On the way there, we ran into a helpful local who called a restaurant upon learning about our quest for king crab but found out they had run out of crab due to rough weather conditions at sea over the past few days. She then recommended the restaurant where she planned to have dinner that night, the one we visited earlier. We informed her that the restaurant was closed, but she didn't believe it and insisted on taking us there directly. It turned out that the restaurant just opened for business when we arrived, and we were so happy. Unfortunately, the restaurant informed us they had not received any king crab delivery from the Fishman for the last couple of days due to the bad weather. It was a stroke of bad luck, and we figured all the restaurants in town would run into the same problem, so we had to abandon the idea of having a king crab. We thanked the hospitality local for her help and returned to the ship for dinner.

After a satisfying dinner, we decided to explore a location known for its abundance of birds perched on the rocky shores, hoping to capture some beautiful bird pictures. On our way to the bird-watching spot, we passed by the Thai restaurant the tourist office had recommended. Curious, we peered through the window and saw the patrons inside happily relishing the king crab. The sight filled us with excitement, and we couldn't resist entering the restaurant to inquire about a table. The happiness was short-lived. Sadly, the restaurant had just sold out the last delectable crab dish. It seemed luck was not on our side today, and once again, we missed the opportunity to savor the king crab.

On the way back to the port by bus from the North Cape, we spotted fish-drying sheds on the roadside, capturing a quintessential scene of a Norwegian fishing village - drying fish bodies and fish heads. We were curious about them. Since it was near the cruise port, we decided to walk over there and closely examine them. The sheds were massive, a lot bigger than we expected. The fish bodies and heads were separated and dried by cold air and wind on wooden racks. We later learned that since the Viking age, Norwegians have dried fish outdoors in the fresh ocean wind to make stockfish. Now, this kind of dried fish is exported to all over the world.

As the white nights approached, the reindeer herds on the slopes by the bay slowly drifted off to sleep after satisfying their appetites. Our ship left the Norwegian mainland, continuing its journey deeper into the Arctic region.

June 17: The next destination, Longyearbyen, Svalbard, was a bit far, and we wouldn't arrive there until tomorrow. Since we boarded the ship, every day brought us to a new port, keeping us busy from morning till night. Finally, we had a full day at sea, a chance to sleep in, relax, enjoy food and drinks, and catch up on writing our travelogue for the past few days.

Before embarking on our Arctic journey, we assumed this cruise might be less crowded, given the remote location of the embarkation point in northern Norway. However, to our surprise, our assumptions were completely off the mark. Never before had we seen such a bustling cruise ship; finding a seat for breakfast turned into a delightful challenge. One noticeable presence was the significant number of passengers with Chinese heritage, just like us. Around 30% of the cruisers shared our ancestry, and most were in the same age group. It felt like we had stumbled upon a vibrant community of Shanghainese travelers, and the familiar sounds of the Shanghai dialect surrounded us. Over a few days cruising, we conversed with fellow Chinese descent passengers and exchanged stories of our travel experiences. It was fascinating to learn that everyone on board came from different parts of the world, each with compelling tales of adventure and exploration.

In the evening, we dined at another specialty restaurant - the French restaurant. The ambiance was delightful, and the dishes' presentation and taste were a step up from the main dining area. Since we liked the white wine Shades of Blue Riesling very much from our earlier onboard dining experience, we ordered another bottle tonight, intending to savor it over two occasions. After the sumptuous dinner, we watched a magic show.

Due to the chilly weather, we spent little time walking around the ship after boarding. Occasionally, we would step onto the balcony of our room to gaze at the sea, which was calm with occasional fog, and sometimes spot whales gracefully gliding through the waters and seabirds soaring through the skies as our travel companions, adding a touch of wonder and excitement to our Arctic voyage.

6/16: - 北纬71.15度（North Cape)。

早晨醒来船已停靠在挪威大陆最北的小镇Honningsvaag。镇很小，但许多走北极圈线路的船都会到此停留，因为从这个小镇可以去到著名的北角（North Cape）。小镇还有个特色是可以品尝到新鲜的北极帝王蟹。

早餐后我们先下船去镇上旅游信息中心了解一下情况，然后就在小镇上逛了一圈。教堂，灯塔，色彩鲜艳的捕鱼船等等，非常典型的一个北欧小渔村。

我们订了票随当地旅游大巴去North Cape. 来到这个小镇的游客估计绝大部分都会去North Cape。不是太远，开车四十几分钟就到了。沿途是北极圈特有的地貌特征，一片荒凉，偶尔能看到几只驯鹿。没想到的是North Cape 已经完全被游客占领了，停车场停满了大巴，RV和私车。游客中心有饭店，卖纪念品的小商店，还有一个影院不停地放映一个十几分钟关于北极的短片。进游客中心需要买门票，但并没人查票，完全靠自觉。我们先看短片，然后就是在几个景点拍照留念算是到此一游。

再坐大巴回到小镇时已是下午，我们直奔早上旅游信息中心工作人员推荐的吃帝王蟹的饭店而去，饭店没开，非常失望。又回到信息中心，工作人员又推荐了一家泰国店。在去泰国店的路上碰巧遇到一位热心的当地人，听说我们想吃帝王蟹，就打电话问一家店，回答说今天没有蟹。她又推荐一家她今晚在那里聚餐的饭店，我们说没开门，她不信，就直接把我们带到饭店去了。就二，三十分钟的样子，饭店倒的确是刚刚开始营业了，但老板说今天没有帝王蟹，因为前二天的风浪太大，渔民们没办法出海，也就没货送给饭店。那泰国店也不用去了，断了帝王蟹的念头，改去海边拍鸟。拍完照回船的路上走过这家泰国饭店，看见里面有人在吃蟹，赶紧进去却又被告知刚卖完了。真是阴错阳差，我们就是与北极帝王蟹没缘，乖乖回船吃饭去，但还是要感谢那位热心当地人的相助。

在回码头的大巴上，看到路边的晒鱼棚，饭后特意找到晒鱼棚，留下挪威小渔村一景：干晒鱼体，鱼头。

随着白夜来临，在海湾边山坡上的驯鹿群在＂酒足饭饱＂后渐渐入睡。我们的船也离开挪威大陆，继续深入北极。

6/17: 海上行

下一站有点远，明天才能到达。自上船以来，每天一个新港口，从早到晚都在忙，总算有一整天在海上航行，可以睡个懒觉，吃吃喝喝放松一下。同时也有时间补写一下几天的游记。

这次北极游开始之前，还以为我们的游轮可能会比较空，因为上船的地点是在挪威北部一个小地方。实在是太偏远，而且是去北极，一个不太寻常的地方。结果我们是大错特错了。从来没见过游轮上有这么多游客，吃早餐常常连位子都找不到。并且这次游轮上有很多我们的同胞，大概估计一下可能占30%，基本上以我们这个年龄段为主，而其中上海同乡非常之多，有时吃个饭前后左右听到的都是乡音。在船上待了几天，慢慢地开始与一些同胞同乡们聊上几句，大家来自世界各地，旅行经历一个比一个丰富。

今天晚上去了另一家特色餐厅-法国餐厅。环境不错，菜的摆盘和口感的确比大堂餐厅稍好一些。这次又要了一瓶白葡萄酒，还是和上次一样准备分二次享用。美酒佳肴之后再看一场魔术表演。

因为天比较冷，上船后我们几乎没怎么在船上绕船走。有时候会在房间的阳台上看看海，浪虽不大，但常有雾，偶尔有鲸鱼，小鸟伴陪。

Alta (Lat. 69.97 deg) 北纬69.97度

June 15: Our ship docked at Alta Harbor at 7 o'clock. Alta is known for its stunning natural beauty, with majestic mountains, fjords, and the surrounding Arctic wilderness.

After breakfast, we set out to hike the nearby mountain. The journey wasn't too long, about 4 to 5 kilometers from the pier to the top of the hill. The final few hundred meters involved climbing on large rocks, which proved challenging for some of the older passengers from the ship. As we descended the mountain, we had a delightful encounter with a group of fifth-grade students from a local school on an outdoor activity. They eagerly chatted with us, asked numerous questions, and even recommended the local shopping center to visit. They taught us some Norwegian phrases along the way, and their enthusiasm, curiosity, and confidence were fascinating. We were even more surprised to come across a group of kindergarten children climbing up the mountain, led by teachers at the front and back – something unimaginable in the United States. It's no wonder Norwegians love outdoor activities and have a spirit of adventure instilled in them from a very young age.

After our mountain adventure, we visited the Northern Lights Cathedral in the city center. The church was newly constructed. The church's architecture was quite remarkable. The building exterior was titanium sheets with a large spiral and a belfry inspired by the natural beauty of the Northern Lights. It required an entrance fee to see the church's interior, which we gladly paid. Instead of traditional sculptures of Jesus or religious figures, there was a stunning 4.3-meter-tall bronze sculpture of a man, adding a modern and artistic touch to the sacred space. Beneath the bell tower, a gold ladder, seemingly an artist's imaginative creation, led upwards, perhaps symbolizing a path to heaven. Our visit to the Northern Lights Cathedral left us in awe of its innovative design, harmonizing the majesty of nature with contemporary artistry, making it a truly captivating and unique experience, different from other churches in Europe.

Later, we took a bus to the Alta Museum, the World Heritage Rock Art Center, outside the city. It is dedicated to showcasing and preserving the unique heritage of Alta Rock Art, a collection of ancient rock carvings that date back thousands of years. The Alta Rock Art consists of more than 6,000 rock carvings on large panels spread across the landscape, depicting various scenes from prehistoric life, including hunting, fishing, rituals, and daily activities of the region's early inhabitants. The rock painting park was well-maintained, ensuring the priceless paintings were protected and accessible to visitors. We wandered along the path and deeply appreciated the skill and artistry of the ancient people who created these remarkable carvings.

Most of the museum-goers were from our cruise, and many had taken the bus to the museum like us. As we were ready to return to the ship, the bus station outside the museum was bustling with eager cruisers to return to their vessel. Only a few of us had purchased tickets in advance through our phones. When the first bus arrived, the driver was meticulous, ensuring everyone bought a ticket before boarding and only the front door was opened. It took quite a few minutes for only a handful of passengers to get on. The line was long, and people started wondering how long it would take to get on the bus. A little while later, the second bus came, stopping right in front of us. The second bus driver opened all the doors and gestured for everyone to board without tickets. We all rushed in, and the bus departed promptly. Looking back, we noticed the first bus was still slowly loading the passengers.

We decided to try a different restaurant with Brazilian cuisine in the evening. We did remember to bring our saved wine out. Unfortunately, the mediocre food didn't meet our expectations, leaving us somewhat disappointed.

6/15 - 北纬69.97度（Alta)

早上七点船来到Alta港。下船后先去爬山，路程不算长，加上从码头到山脚的一段大概有4，5公里，最后几百米是在大石头上爬上去的，有些年纪大的人就有点困难。在我们下山时，来自当地学校野外活动的五年级学生与我们聊天，问了我们好多问题，还推荐我们去当地购物中心看看。一路上还教我们不少挪威话，他们很热情，好奇和自信，很有意思。最为惊奇的是还碰到一群幼儿园小朋友也在往山上爬，前面有老师领队，后面有老师跟着，这在美国是不可思议的事情。难怪挪威人喜欢野外活动，勇敢的冒险精神从小就开始培养。

爬完山后就去市中心的教堂。这个教堂建筑很别致。进教堂要收门票，但这教堂和其它的不一样，没有耶稣塑像而换成了艺术人像。

坐公交车去城外的博物馆，那里有2～7千年前的岩石画。岩石画公园修建得很好，把这些无价之宝的岩石画保护起来又便于游客观赏。博物馆里绝大数参观者都是从我们游轮来的，很多人都是坐公交车来的。回码头的车站挤满了游客，第一辆车来了，像我们这样手机上已买票的少之又少。司机做事认真，每人必须买票才能上车，而且只开前门，几分钟也没上几个人。过一会儿来了第二辆车，正好停在我们面前，那司机将所有车门都打开，挥挥手不用买票，大家一涌而上，车就开走了。再回头看第一辆车还在慢慢地检票呢。

晚上试了另一家特色餐厅-巴西餐厅，不敢恭维，口味一般，有点失望。

Hammerfest (Lat. 70.66 deg.) 北纬70.66度

June 14: Our ship docked at Hammerfest in the morning. The town is located on the island of Kvaløya, just off the coast of the Norwegian Sea, with a population of more than 10,000. Today, this town is an important hub for the oil and gas industry in the region.

Eager to explore the city, we again purchased a 24-hour transportation card on our phones before stepping off the ship. With two bus stations close to the port, we opted for the less crowded one. With our transportation card, boarding the bus was a breeze. Little did we anticipate that the next stop would be bustling with passengers from our cruise ship. People were confused about paying for the bus tickets and blocked the bus door. To our surprise, the driver kindly gestured for everyone to get on quickly and generously, waiving the ticket fares. This thoughtful act spared them all the inconvenience of purchasing tickets on the spot. With a cheerful atmosphere, the passengers happily made their way to the vibrant city center. We couldn't help but appreciate the driver's kindness in waiving the ticket fares, making our travel experience more enjoyable.

When we arrived in the city center, we first took a photo in front of the Hammerfest city's landmark. Then, we visited the Hammerfest church. We notice the churches in Northern Norway have a similar architectural touch, a long triangle style integrated with the tower with the main entrance or the main buildings. Interestingly, this design differs from what we might find in other parts of Europe, where bell towers or clock towers are often placed on top of the main building. The traditional design in Northern Norway seems to emphasize the verticality of the structure, with the tower integrated into the overall shape of the church and surviving better under extreme cold and heavy snow weather conditions.

We climbed the hill near the city center after visiting the Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society. Although not too high, it had a steep slope, making it challenging. After reaching the hilltop, we enjoyed the panoramic view of the city and took some photos. We noticed a village inhabited by the Sami people, but it turned out to be a tourist attraction rather than a permanent settlement. An elderly Sami gentleman engaged us in conversation and invited us into a small tent with a warm fire. They no longer reside there permanently but utilize the area during the summer to tend to their reindeer and organize tourist activities. The reindeer in this region belong to the Sami people.

As the wind picked up and it started getting cold on the mountaintop, we decided to take the bus back to the city. We met a Norwegian couple also waiting for the bus. They mentioned the bus should arrive in just two minutes, but after waiting for over twenty minutes, no bus was in sight. During this time, we chatted with the couple and learned they were from southern Norway, visiting their daughter's sheep farm on a small island in the north. As the bus didn't show up, they kindly showed us a shortcut down the mountain and even accompanied us all the way to the city center, displaying remarkable warm hospitality. We later discovered that the buses in town took a one-hour break during lunchtime.

We returned to the ship for a quick lunch. Then we visited a small fishing village outside the city and took the bus there. However, upon arrival, we found that the village only had a small dock and a few fishing boats, with no other facilities or a single person. The weather was chilly, and the wind was fierce. The next bus back to the city wouldn't come for another forty minutes. So we had to seek shelter and warmth at the bus station, a concrete shed. It was chilly, and we were a little scared. We even had doubts about whether the bus would arrive on time since it was such a remote area that we might miss the ship's departure time.

The bus did come, and we were back in the city finally. We headed to the monument, which marks the northernmost point of the Struve Geodetic Arc, a part of the UNESCO site. These measurement points were established to determine the shape and size of the Earth, making them significant in terms of world cultural heritage.

With the ship's late departure, we explored a local historical site near the port after enjoying our dinner. This site was a collection of temporary housing structures from the post-World War II era, thoughtfully relocated for preservation. The city had faced significant destruction during the war, leaving only one building standing, which made the post-war architecture even more historically valuable.

Despite its small size, Hammerfest taught us many valuable lessons and left a lasting impression on our journey.

6/14: 北纬70.66度（Hammerfest)

我们外出尽量利用当地公交车，下船前先在手机上直接买了当地2 4小时的交通卡。在码头附近有二个车站，我们去了前面车站，车站上没几个人，我们有交通卡，车来就直接上车。没想到下一站站满了从游轮下来的乘客，大家全要在车上买票，有点乱哄哄。 司机看着这么多要买票的，也许出于好心，也许是怕这么多人票买下来，这车半小时也开不了，懒得收这个钱，就挥手让大家赶快上车，不用买票了，满满的一车人高高兴兴地到市中心全部下去。

我们先在Hammerfest市的市标前照个相，然后走去教堂打卡，接着去爬山，山不高但坡度挺陡的，弯弯曲曲还挺费劲的。在山顶上看看城市全景再照个相。看到附近有个挪威土族人（Sami)的村庄，实际上也是为游客而建的，他们正等着下一波游客团队的到来，我们凑热闹上去和一位老人聊聊，他让我们进到烧着火的小帐篷里看看。其实他们已不住这里，夏天会来这里放养驯鹿和搞些旅游活动，冬天回到较为暖和的山上。这里驯鹿都属于Sami人的。

山上风大，走一会儿有点冷，想坐车回船，看到一对挪威夫妇也在等车，说是二分钟公交车就会来的，结果等了二十几分钟车也没来。等车期间与他们聊天，他们来自挪威南方，去在北方小岛女儿家帮看外孙，女儿家在岛上有个养羊场。公交车不见踪影，我们准备走下山回市区，他们给我们指点了一条近路，怕我们走错就索性陪我们一路下山到市中心，真是一对热心人。我们走回船码头后才发现中午公交车休息一小时。

午餐后心血来潮要去城外的小渔村，还是坐公交车去。但来到那里一看，小渔村就只有个小的船码头和几条渔船，没任何其它设施， 更没一个人。当时天很冷且风非常大，下一班回市里的公交车要等四十分钟才来，我们只能待在车站棚避风保暖。

总算回到市区，接着来到斯特鲁维测地弧最北的一个测量点的纪念碑，这些测量点是为了确立地球的参考椭球体，直接测量地球大小的，被列为世界文化遗产。船要到半夜才离开，晚饭后又去了码头边的当地历史点，他们把岛上二战后建的临时住房搬了过来。二战期间，德军把整个城市都毁了，只有一幢楼幸存下来，所以二战后建筑算是历史建筑了。

这座城虽小，我们学了不少东西。

Harstad (Lat. 68.80 deg) 北纬68.80度

Harstad (Lat. 68.80 deg.) 北纬68.80度

June 13: Our ship arrived in Harstad, a mid-sized city in northern Norway with over 20,000 people. We decided to explore the town independently rather than join the ship's organized excursion.

The local bus transportation in Northern Norway is operated mainly by a single company, Fylkestrafikk, and the ticket fare is based on whether you are traveling within or between zones. The single ticket costs about 37 NKR within a zone; typically, traveling within a city or town falls within a single zone. Since we were familiar with the Norwegian bus system from the previous bus ride, we acquired the bus tickets through an app before leaving the ship.

Our first destination was the Harstad History Museum and Historical Farm, where we had the opportunity to delve into rural life from the past. At the history museum, we learned that the German forces occupied northern Norway during World War II, destroying many buildings. They also constructed a camp to detain Soviet prisoners of war at the location right next to the museum. We strolled through a park built on the former camp's site. Afterward, we continued our exploration and visited the northernmost medieval stone church.

Then, we boarded the bus back to the city center for a brief tour. It was a day filled with historical and cultural experiences as we immersed ourselves in the charm of Harstad.

Besides a few complimentary restaurants on the ship, several specialty restaurants on board require an additional fee to dine in. A meal for two in one of these restaurants would cost more than a hundred US dollars. Our cruise package included two specialty dining meals for two people at any specialty restaurant. To our surprise, the cruise line offered us two more specialty dining meals upon boarding and even gifted us a bottle of wine.

We decided to dine at the Italian restaurant on board for our evening meal and opted for a bottle of white wine, Shade of Blue, a Riesling from Germany. Since neither of us was a drinker, this semi-sweet wine with tropical fruit notes and a crisp citrus finish suits us well. We enjoyed our dinner, savoring the delectable food and the delightful wine. There was no way we would be able to finish the entire bottle. The server suggested saving the remaining wine for us, which could be used for our next visit to any restaurant on board. It was a smart trick we had just learned, allowing us to extend the enjoyment of that excellent Riesling. It was a fantastic dining experience with delicious cuisine and fine wine.

6/13: 北纬68.80度（Harstad)

第一站Harstad 实际上离Tromso不远，有二万多人口，按照挪威的标准，在北挪威也算是个中，大城市了。我们先参观了他们历史博物馆和历史农场，在那里可以体验一下当时的乡村生活。 从历史馆知道，二战期间德军占领整个北挪威，摧毁大多数建筑，在那里还建造关押苏军战俘的营地，我们在旧址上建的公园里走了一圈。然后去了最北的中世纪石头教堂。

下午在城中心走马观花之后就回船了。除了几个免费的餐厅之外，游轮上还有几个需要收费的特色餐厅，二人一顿饭大约需要一，二百美金。我们这次订的船票里包括了二顿特色餐厅用餐。上船后，发现他们又额外送给我们二顿特色用餐，还给了一瓶葡萄酒。今天晚餐去了特色餐厅吃意大利菜，在意大利餐厅里要了一瓶白葡萄酒，喝了一半，服务员说可以帮我们留着，我们下次去其它任何餐厅时再继续喝，这是我们刚学的小巧门。

Tromso (Lat. 69.65 deg) 北纬69.65度

June 11: We made our breakfast in our rented unit. It was a delightful breakfast with bacon, eggs, and a cup of aroma coffee. We were grateful for the convenience of having a kitchen because breakfast cafes in many European cities are hard to come by in the early morning, and they tend to open later. Having the kitchen allowed us to avoid the hassle of searching for food on the streets during those early hours.

After enjoying our breakfast, we proceeded to the local tourist information center to gather valuable insights about the area. We purchased a 24-hour tourist card combining the bus pass and tickets for two prominent attractions: the Arctic Cathedral and Fjellheisen (Cable Car). Excited about our plans, we embarked on our exploration and first headed to Telegrafbukta Beach Park, situated at the southern tip of Tromsoya Island.

At the beach park, we took a leisurely stroll along the seaside, captivated by the soothing sound of waves gently crashing against the shore. The sight of snow-capped mountains across the water added a touch of majesty to the landscape. As we walked, we felt the refreshing sea breeze on our faces, and from time to time, we sat on the benches, fully immersing ourselves in the tranquil ambiance surrounding us.

Our next plan was to take the cable car to the mountaintop, where we expected a stunning view of Tromso. However, we were disheartened to learn that the cable car was closed due to strong winds when we arrived by bus. Disappointed but undeterred, we visited the next attraction, the Arctic Cathedral, which had a charming exterior and interior. Unfortunately, the weather worsened with strong winds and drizzling rain, so we returned to the hotel for a break. As the bad weather continued, our concern grew about the potential impact on the planned midnight hiking tour tonight. The rain might interfere with the tour's enjoyment and safety, making us unsure what to expect.

Fortunately, the rain stopped, and the sun emerged in the evening. At 8 pm, a tour guide picked up Chenggang in Tromso city center and drove him and other participants over the Snadnessunbrua bridge to a larger island, Kvaloya. The first encounter was several reindeer roaming along the roads. The driver let us get out of the car to take some pictures.

Due to the recent rains, the trail was murky and slippery. Undeterred by the challenging conditions, the group embarked on a four-hour nighttime hike up the mountain. Chenggang had a couple of slips and falls during the descent, but it didn't dampen his spirits. Witnessing the sun hanging high in the midnight sky was a breathtaking and surreal sight that left everyone in awe.

Chenggang returned to the hotel around 1 am the next day, feeling exhausted and exhilarated at the same time. The entire experience had been invigorating, and despite the late hour, he felt a surge of energy, almost tempted to continue the journey on foot. The memories of that extraordinary hike will stay with him for a long time, making it a truly unforgettable adventure.

June 12: Our day began with a visit to the tourist information center, where we inquired about yesterday's cable car closure. Fortunately, the staff understood and was kind enough to refund our ticket for the portion of the cable car ride. With that sorted, we proceeded to our next destination, the Polaris Museum. We had the delightful opportunity at the museum to witness a dolphin feeding show. It was a captivating experience, observing these intelligent and playful creatures up close.

The new cruise terminal at the city center was well-equipped, with convenient amenities such as hotels, restaurants, and buses, but it only accommodated small ships with fewer than a thousand passengers. Unfortunately, for our NCL Star cruise, we had to embark from the old terminal, which was outdated and lacking in facilities. In the afternoon, we took a bus to the old cruise terminal located 4 kilometers away from the city center. The absence of passenger lounges was particularly noticeable, and security checks were conducted in large tents, which wasn't as efficient or comfortable. We waited about an hour to pass through the security check and check-in.

Besides this terminal, Norway's public infrastructure was excellent, even in remote small towns, with good roads, public transport, and reliable mobile communication and networks. We haven't used cash so far, and our T-Mobile phones have had no connectivity or data usage issues.

Today marks the beginning of our 12-day cruise to Norway and Iceland, exploring the Arctic Circle. Since visiting Antarctica, we've desired to experience the Arctic. During our trip to Alaska, we didn't dare to drive to the Arctic Circle for a photo, but this time, we can immerse ourselves in the Arctic Circle, fulfilling a dream come true.

After boarding the NCL Star, we dined at the buffet restaurant on the 12th floor before settling into our rooms. With a few hours left before departure, we got off the ship. We explored a nearby botanical garden due to its unique geographical location, featuring flora distinct from the southern regions.

At 8 pm, our ship departed from the cruise terminal, setting the stage for our exciting journey. Over the next few days, we will be venturing farther north, delving deeper into the captivating wonders of the Arctic region. The most remarkable aspect of this northern expedition is the phenomenon of the midnight sun. The sun remains a constant companion, gracing us with its presence throughout the day and night, as we imagined. As we continue our voyage, we eagerly anticipate the breathtaking landscapes and unique adventures that lie ahead in this extraordinary journey under the enchanting glow of the midnight sun.

6/11: 北纬69.65度（Tromso)

今天的早餐自己做，房间自带厨房很方便，鸡蛋，培根，咖啡等等。欧洲许多城市早晨吃早餐的地方不多，店都开得比较晚，对早起的人来说有点不方便。有厨房的话就不用满街找吃的了。

早上先去当地的旅游信息中心了解一下情况，买了包括24小时的公交车和二个主要景点的联票之后便开始踩点。首先坐车来到海边的公园，沿着海边慢慢走，听着浪声，看着对面的雪山，偶尔在椅子上坐坐，真是非常享受。接着我们准备坐缆车🚡，据说在山顶上俯瞰整个Tromso很漂亮。兴冲冲坐车来到山脚下，却被告知今天风太大，缆车不开。那一刻我们别提有多失望了，坐缆车可是我们买的联票中的一个项目。没办法只能去下一个景点-教堂，教堂的里外都比较别致。我们到教堂时外面刮起大风，也开始下毛毛雨，看完教堂后赶着回酒店。担心的是今晚还有个重要项目－北极半夜徒步爬山。

很幸运，傍晚开始雨停日出。晚八点由导游带着我们几位开车到另外一个小岛上去，来回路上还碰到不少驯鹿。在山上走了四个小时，回到酒店已第二天早晨一点了。整个过程很过瘾，有一种说不出的感觉，既是时过半夜，人还是很兴奋，想继续走下去。

6/12: 北纬69.65度（Tromso)

早晨先去旅游信息中心询问一下昨天没坐上缆车的事，他们就把缆车的票钱退还给我们。然后就去看了一下Polaris 博物馆，在那里观看喂海豚表演。

午后我们坐着公交车去了4公里外的游船老码头。他们在市中心造了个新的码头，周围环境很好，酒店，饭店，大巴应有尽有，很方便，但新码头只能停靠一千人以下的小船。而老码头设施陈旧，周围什么都没有，连乘客楼都没有，安检都是在大帐篷里做的。但话也说回来，挪威的其它公共设施还是很好的，既便是偏僻的小城里，公路，公交车，手机通信和网络都很不错。至今我们还没用过现金，我们的T-Mobile手机也畅通无阻，不用加流量。

今天将开始我们12天的挪威，冰岛游轮行，去北极圈转转。自从去过南极后，一直想到北极看看。上次去阿拉斯加时没敢开车去北极圈打卡，这次能深入北极圈也算是梦想成真。

上船后，我们先去十二层自助餐厅用餐，饭吃完房间也可以入住了。离开船还有几个小时，把行李放下后，我们又下船去码头附近的植物小园看看，因为这里的地理位置关系，植物园里树木花草之类的东西是不能与南方比的。

晚上八点，我们的NCL Star游轮慢慢地离开了船码头，以后的十几天里我们的行程会越来越往北，太阳会总是陪伴着我们，黑夜不再存在，有点不可思议。

Arctic Circle Train&Narvik 北极圈列车

June 9: The Arctic Circle Train connects Stockholm in Sweden and Narvik in Norway; the journey takes about twenty hours. The most convenient option for the Arctic Circle Train would have been a direct overnight train from Stockholm to Narvik by VY Nattag 94. However, for some reason, VY Nattag 94 was not running during the last few days. So we had to take the two-segment trains, Nattag 92 and 96, instead.

We boarded our train, VY Natag 92, which connects Stockholm in Sweden and Boden in Sweden, in Stockholm last night. This morning, we were roused from our sleep by the gentle swaying of the train. This train appeared to lack an automatic balancing mechanism, causing it to tilt slightly with every turn, resulting in swaying. Despite this, we managed to get some decent rest, possibly due to our weariness from the past few days' activities. It is a scenic train journey that takes travelers along the Gulf of Bothnia in the Baltic Sea and through dense forests and pristine lakes to reach Boden, Sweden. After the twelve-hour journey, we arrived in Boden a little after ten in the morning. There, we switched to another train, VY Nattag 96, traveling seven and a half hours to Narvik, Norway, the second segment of the Arctic Circle Train.

After boarding the VY Nattag 96 train in Boden, the landscape on both sides of the railway began to change into Arctic Circle scenery. The towering pine trees and green grass disappeared, replaced by slender white birch trees and brown tundra. In the last couple of hours, as it was winding through the northern parts of Sweden and Norway near the Arctic Circle, the train ride offered stunning views of the Arctic wilderness, including snow-capped mountains, pristine lakes, and unique flora and fauna.

This 250-mile railway is also known as the Iron Ore Line since it was built to transport iron ore from mines in Sweden to the ice-free port of Narvik for export. The railroad was once an engineering marvel for high-quality construction and design. The downhill train from the mines to Narvik only used 20% of the electricity it generated and used the rest to return the empty train to the mines. The transportation of iron ore occurred virtually cost-free, as the system ingeniously recycled its generated energy, eliminating the need to pay for additional fuel and electricity.

We arrived in Narvik at 5:30 pm, checked into the hotel, dropped off our luggage, and immediately ventured out to find something to eat. In the meantime, we tried to find the bus station and buy the bus tickets for the next day. We searched online to determine how to purchase the bus tickets and got some confusing information. We downloaded two apps from the bus company, one for live schedule and one for ticket purchase. There should be two buses to Tromso tomorrow based on the bus schedule. Using the app, we could purchase the general tickets only, not reserved for seats, and the tickets would expire after six hours. We felt the bus company just didn't want anyone to buy the tickets in advance. The bus station was conveniently located outside the largest shopping mall in the town, so we walked to the mall and the bus station. There was no ticket office, and only 3 ~ 4 bus schedules were posted on the board, but none showed Tromso as the destination. We got confused and frustrated. At this point, there was nothing we could do about it.

We continued our search for a good restaurant and settled in a Fish restaurant next to the fish market hall. After we had ordered the food, Chenggang realized that today's bus from Tromso would arrive in Narvik soon. Why didn't we ask the bus driver about tomorrow's schedule? Chenggang quickly left for the bus terminal, which was only a few minutes' walking distance. When he got to the station, the bus just arrived. He talked to the driver and confirmed the bus for Tromso would leave Narvik at the time based on the online schedule. What a relief!

Our food was ready just a few minutes after Chenggang returned from the bus terminal. Then the waiter came to our table to apologize for giving us the wrong fish dish. We didn't want to waste the food, so we told him it was okay and that we would take the wrong plate. These were all freshly made fish dishes anyway, and they tasted delicious. Ultimately, they only charged us 50% of the total bill due to one of the dishes was wrong. We were very delighted with their food and service.

After dinner, we took a leisurely stroll along the bay, enjoying the picturesque Arctic midnight sun.

June 10: - Latitude 68.45 degree (Narvik): Today, we started our day with breakfast at the hotel. The small town of Narvik does not have many hotel options, and we picked one based on the review and location. Contrary to the not-so-good reputation of Quality Inn's breakfast in the United States, we were pleasantly surprised by the complimentary breakfast here, which was abundant and far better than the expensive $20+ breakfasts we had at hotels in Sweden a few days ago. Moreover, knowing that most guests were heading on long journeys, the hotel offered a great deal – lunch-to-go for just $7. We couldn't resist this opportunity and made two delicious sandwiches to enjoy later during our travels. After the meal, we set out for a leisurely walk around the town, soaking in the serene life of this small Nordic city—the charm of the surroundings and the peaceful atmosphere added to the joy of our morning.

In the afternoon, just a little past 1 pm, we boarded a double-decker bus bound for Tromso, Norway, the largest city within the Arctic Circle. The bus driver recalled his conversation with Chenggang last night and warmly welcomed us. Surprisingly, only a few passengers were on the bus, allowing us to secure seats in the front row of the upper deck, providing us with an astonishing 180-degree panoramic view of the surroundings. The 4.5-hour journey passed swiftly, and the scenery was breathtaking, making this bus ride the most beautiful and comfortable one we've experienced. After taking buses in foreign countries a few times, we realized that bus travel should be seriously considered more often in future trips. The convenience, comfort, and opportunity to appreciate the incredible sights along the way are unparalleled, and it has certainly added a delightful dimension to our travel experiences.

Upon our arrival in Tromso, we wasted no time and headed straight to a nearby supermarket to stock up on groceries, as our hotel here was equipped with a kitchen. While in Sweden and Norway, we noticed a lack of vegetables, especially the Asian leafy greens we're accustomed to having. Therefore, we picked up some fresh green salads, meat, and fruits to create a satisfying dinner for tonight.

After enjoying our meal, we decided to stroll around the neighborhood to get acquainted with the area and its surroundings, preparing for a deeper exploration tomorrow.

6/9: 从瑞典的斯德哥尔摩到挪威的Narvik铁路线也称为北极圈列车线，行程近二十小时。最方便的是坐直达过夜火车。但不知什么原因，直达车这几天都没开，我们就只能订需要转一次的火车。

昨晚从斯德哥尔摩上的火车。大概火车没有自动平衡机制，每次转弯，火车就有点倾斜，觉得有点摇晃，不过睡得还可以，可能是因为前几天玩得有点累了。十二个小时很快就过去了，上午十点多就到达瑞典的Boden, 在那里换乘另一列火车前往挪威的Narvik, 大约需要七个半小时。

在Boden上车后，铁路两边开始变成北极圈的地貌，高大的松树和绿色的野草消失了，替代的是细小的白桦树和棕色的苔原。在最后一，二个小时，路边的风景非常优美。这段二百五十英里的铁路线也被称为铁矿石线，曾经是工程技术上的奇迹。

下午五点半到达挪威的Narvik, 入住旅馆放下行李，马上出去找吃的。晚饭后漫步在海湾边，享受着风景如画的北极白夜。

6/10: 北纬68.45度（Narvik)

今天在旅馆用早餐。小镇旅馆选择不多，我们看评分和旅馆位置选了一家。虽然品质客栈(quality inn)的早餐在美国名声不是很好，但这里的免费早餐却大不相同，比前几天在瑞典的酒店花了每人2 0几美金的早餐还要丰富。另外这个旅馆还很细心，也许知道大多客人都是要赶长途的，花七美金就可以随便打包午餐，我们自己做了二个三明治留着中午吃。饭后就在城里走走，感受一下宁静北欧小城生活。

下午一点多乘坐双层大巴去Tromso, 挪威，是北极圈内最大的城市。大巴上乘客不多，我们坐在二层第一排，有180度全景，一路上风景不错，是我们坐过大巴中最为漂亮舒服的一次，4个半小时巴士行程一会儿就过去了。我们已在外国坐过几次巴士，每次感觉都不错，看来今后旅行应该多考虑坐巴士。

到了Tromso后就去超市买点食品，这次的酒店是带厨房的。在瑞典和挪威这几天蔬菜吃得太少，这里也没亚洲的绿叶蔬菜，所以看到有蔬菜色拉就赶紧买，再配些肉和水果，晚饭就随便吃了。饭后就去附近走走，先熟悉一下环境，明天深度游。

Oslo 奥斯陆

June 2: We set off again before dawn, boarding another Emirates flight to bid farewell to Dubai. After a seven-and-a-half-hour journey, we arrived in Oslo, the capital of Norway. Compared to Dubai's airport, the immigration hall in Oslo was small and dim, quite outdated. We quickly reached the city center from the airport via a high-speed train departing every ten minutes. Within twenty minutes, we arrived at our hotel, conveniently located next to the central station.

Upon arriving in Norway, we were immediately struck by the fresh air and clear blue skies adorned with fluffy white clouds. After checking in and leaving our luggage at the hotel, we set off on foot towards Karl Johans gate. Along the way, we detoured to visit a charming Catholic church before continuing our stroll to the Royal Palace.

By sheer coincidence, we witnessed an important individual departing the palace, escorted by a police motorcycle. The Royal Palace's architectural style is simple but elegant, and a few guards stood beside simple sheds throughout the complex. The "Royal Palace Park" (Slottsparken), which surrounds the Royal Palace, has been a popular public park since the early 19th century. It is open year-round for visitors to enjoy its green spaces, sculptures, and serene ambiance. We were delighted to spend an enjoyable afternoon in the park.

Next, we visited the National Theatre, which boasts a history of over 120 years. At that time, a reading performance was taking place inside the theater. We obtained complimentary tickets to listen to the reading from a book, even though we didn't understand the language. It was an excellent opportunity to immerse ourselves in a foreign country's culture and admire the theater's beauty.

For dinner, we treated ourselves to a delightful outdoor dinner at a plaza just outside the City Hall, enjoying a selection of salads, sausages, shrimp, and cheese. This delicious Western meal perfectly suited our taste buds. After dinner, we took a stroll along the seaside to glimpse the beautiful surroundings, saving more detailed exploration for the next day. Oslo is situated close to the 60th parallel north. In June, the city experienced remarkably long daylight hours, with the sun rising as early as 4:07 am and setting at 10:23 pm, as an example today. The sky remained bright throughout the night, adding a unique charm to our experience in this vibrant city.

June 3: Oslo's Opera House is an iconic cultural building in Norway. It resembles a white sandy beach or a ski resort from a distance. In the morning, we took a leisurely walk on the roof, enjoying the panoramic view of Oslo's cityscape and the beautiful bay. We didn't spend too much time there as we wanted to visit the Munch Museum on the other side over a small bridge.

In the Munch Museum, we met with Edvard Munch's iconic masterpiece, "The Scream," one of the most famous and iconic paintings in art history. It is a powerful representation of the human condition and the artist's emotional turmoil. It was a breathtaking experience to stand before this renowned painting. Interestingly, there are four versions of "The Scream." The museum owns three versions: Tempera and oil on cardboard, 1910/ Litograph, 1895/Crayon on cardboard, 1893. To protect these priceless treasures, the museum displayed only one of the three different painting versions at a time for just one hour, and we stayed in the museum long enough to have witnessed two out of three versions during our visit.

It is fascinating to learn about Munch's other impactful works apart from "The Scream." The Monumental Collection Exhibition in the Museum showcases some of Munch's largest paintings ever created in a high-ceiling hall, making for an immersive experience. "The Sun" is one of Munch's most significant achievements in modern mural painting. It serves as a symbol of the power and ingenuity of life, incorporating elements of natural sciences, religion, and the birth of the universe. In contrast, "The Human Mountain: Towards the Light" leaves a haunting impression on our emotions, evoking profound feelings within us. Our museum visits have never yielded such a powerful emotional impact, making these experiences unforgettable.

As we exited the Munch Museum, we were drawn by the lively sounds of music nearby. It was a local marching band event with participants of various age groups. We sat at a nearby restaurant, ordering salmon sandwiches and a salmon Hawaiian poke bowl, and watched the performance. Both items were the most delicious raw and cooked salmon dishes we had ever tasted.

After lunch, we continued our exploration and visited the National Museum, a newly built institution with unique characteristics. The museum houses a substantial collection of artifacts and exhibits worth seeing, including the first version of "The Scream" and different versions of some of Munch's other works. Seeing the first iteration of such an iconic and emotionally charged painting was a remarkable experience that deepened our appreciation for Munch's artistic journey. Edvard Munch is the artist who created many versions of his substantial art masterpieces. The National Museum proved to be an exceptional venue to explore the nation's artistic treasures, and we left feeling enriched by the experience and grateful for the opportunity to witness these masterpieces in person.

Our next destination was Akershus Castle, once a magnificent royal palace for the Norwegian monarchy. Unfortunately, we reached there with only a little over half an hour before closing time, limiting our visit to a brief walk-through. The castle's architecture resembled other historic European castles we had previously seen, so we opted not to linger for an extended period. Nonetheless, the glimpse of its regal past left a lasting impression on our minds.

We then took a bus ride to Vigeland Sculpture Park, which contains 192 sculptures, 650 figures made from bronze, iron, and granite, reflecting the stages of human life from birth to death. The city government had given Gustav Vigeland this land and built a studio for him, and in return, he promised to donate all his works to the government after his death. He devoted more than 20 years to fulfilling this promise, and we all have the opportunity to experience his artwork. It is another emotionally disturbing visit to the art exhibition.

After a day of exploring, we were tired from all the walking, so we decided to rest and recharge at a highly-rated Italian restaurant. The sausages and pizza were indeed delightful, and the service was excellent.

June 4: Today, we took a ferry to the Norwegian Folk Museum across the city center. This museum is the world's oldest open-air museum and houses 160 buildings from various regions of Norway, relocated from different parts of Norway. As it was the weekend, we encountered many locals dressed in traditional costumes, playing musical instruments, and engaging in singing, dancing, and performances – truly a fascinating experience.

We visited two more maritime adventure museums in the afternoon – the Fram Polar Ship Museum and the Kon-Tiki Museum. The bravery and adventurous spirit of those explorers left us in awe.

Having spent two days in Oslo, we went to bed right before sunset each day. Tonight, we decided to have an extra cup of coffee and stay outside to witness the sunset. During the stay in Oslo, we purchased a 48-hour Oslo Pass, which includes museum tickets and serves as a transportation card – a truly worthwhile investment. It allowed us to visit as many museums as possible.

June 5: Today, we were leaving Oslo for Stockholm, Sweden. Before departing, we decided to explore a few more places. Unfortunately, it's Monday, and all the museums are closed. So, we headed to the botanical garden, which was impeccably maintained, and the tranquil atmosphere was only enhanced by the small number of tourists strolling around.

After checking out of the hotel, we left our luggage there and went to see the sculptures by the seaside. To our surprise, the statues were surrounded by young people basking in the sun, adding a touch of vibrant life to the art pieces.

As we walked, a craving for Japanese ramen struck, and we found a Japanese restaurant near the sculpture area. The scenery was fantastic, and the ramen and salmon sashimi taste also satisfied us.

We picked up our luggage from the hotel in the afternoon and eagerly stepped onto the express train destined for Stockholm, Sweden. Despite being called a fast train, sometimes we had to yield to freight trains. Our train carriage wasn't crowded; they even provided complimentary drinks, fruits, and chocolates throughout the journey. We enjoyed the food and the scenic views of the Norwegian and Swedish countryside along the way. After a short nap, we were refreshed and ready to document the memorable experiences of the past few days as we continued on our delightful journey. Time seemed to fly by, and before we knew it, we arrived in another new country, Sweden.

Our hotel in Stockholm is conveniently located next to the central train station. After checking in, we rested early, ready to embrace new adventures in a new country tomorrow.

6/2: 天没亮就出发，再次坐上阿联酋航空，和迪拜说再见。七个半小时后来到挪威首都奥斯陆。与迪拜机场相比，奥斯陆的入境厅又小又暗太落后了。从机场到市中心的高速铁路每十分钟一班，直达车二十分钟后就到了，我们住的酒店就在市中心车站旁边，非常方便。

来到挪威的第一感觉是空气好，蓝天白云。入住酒店放下行李后，就走去卡尔·约翰斯大道，顺便进了天主教堂看了一眼，然后一直走到挪威皇宫。正巧有车从里面出来，而且有警车带路，看来是重要人物。皇家宫殿外面看上去非常简单, 皇家公园是对外开放的。

来到有一百二十多年历史的国家戏院，当时剧场里正在朗读表演。可以拿免费的票进剧场听，虽然听不懂但感受了一下异国文化。

晚餐在市政府楼边上的餐厅，色拉，香肠，虾和奶酪等，西式饮食，非常享受，很合我们胃口。

饭后在海边走走算是先了解一下，明天再仔细游。挪威奥斯陆纬度接近北纬60度，日出是早上4:07; 日落是晚上10:23，而且整晚天都不暗的。

6/3: 奥斯陆歌剧院是挪威最有特色的文化建筑，远处望去像似白色沙滩或者是滑雪场，可以在屋顶上面漫步，饱览奥斯陆的市容和海湾美景。我们没在那里待太久，赶着去了小桥对面的蒙克博物馆。

在博物馆里，看到了爱德华．蒙克的绝作 - “呐喊”，总共有四个版本，馆里展示三个不同的版本，但为了保护这些无价之宝，每小时只显示其中一个版本，我们前后看到了二个版本，他的其它作品也同样扣动心弦。蒙克的许多作品都有几个版本，这也是他的一个特色。

走出蒙克博物馆后，被响亮的音乐声吸引过去，好像是当地行进乐队活动，有各种年龄段的。我们索性就在旁边一家餐厅坐下，要了三文鱼三明治和三文鱼夏威夷盖饭边看边吃，从来没吃到这么好吃的三文鱼，生的和熟的二种三文鱼都味道极佳。

吃完午餐继续逛，去了国家博物馆，是新建的，也有特色。馆内宝贝不少，展品值得一看。在那里，还看到了第一版本的＂呐喊＂，以及蒙克一些其它作品的不同版本。

阿克斯胡斯城堡曾经是挪威王室宫殿，到那里时还有半个多小时就要关门。这城堡与欧州其它的一些旧城堡相似，我们就走马观花转了一圈。

坐车来到维格朗雕塑公园，园内有 192 座雕塑，总计有由铜，铁和花岗石制成的650个人物雕像，反映从生到死的人生全过程。当时市政府给他的土地，为他造工作室，他答应死后把所有的作品捐赠给政府，他为此付出二十多年心血。

一天逛下来路走了不少有点累，必须休息一下补充点能量。选了家评价不错的意大利饭店，香肠和披萨的确不错，服务生态度也特别的好。

6/4: 今天坐渡轮去市中心对面的挪威民俗文化博物馆参观，该博物馆是世界上最早的露天博物馆，收藏了来自全国各地的1 6 0座建筑。正好是周末，有不少当地人身穿民族服装，带着乐器，在那里唱歌跳舞演奏，很有意思。

下午去了另外二个海上探险博物馆 - 弗拉姆极地船博物馆和康提基号博物馆，感叹那些探险者的勇敢和冒险精神。

来奥斯陆二天了，每天都是在日落前倒头就睡。今晚多喝一杯咖啡，硬撑着外出看太阳落山。我们购买了48小时奥斯陆旅游卡，包括博物馆门票，也可以用作交通卡，非常值得。

6/5：今天要离开奥斯陆，走之前又去踩点了几个地方。今天是周一，博物馆都关闭。我们就去了植物园，修整得很好，游客没几个，安静漂亮。

回酒店退房把行李寄存在酒店，然后走去看看在海边的雕塑，没想到在雕塑作品周围躺满享受日光浴的年轻人, 给那些雕塑艺术作品添加不同的色彩。

突然想吃日本拉面，就在雕塑区附近有家日本饭店，不光是风景好，拉面和三文鱼生鱼片的味道也都很满意。

下午二点半上了前往瑞典斯德哥尔摩的快车，七个半小时后达到目的地。说是快车，有时却要让路给货车。我们的车厢里人不多，还提供免费的饮料，水果和巧克力，有吃有喝，一路上还能看到挪威和瑞典乡村风光。时间过得很快，打个盹，抓紧时间把前几天游记记录下来。

斯德哥尔摩的酒店就在市中心火车站旁边。入住后早早休息，新国家新地方，明天继续。