Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 7-Les Contamines 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第七天
August 2, 2024
Today, we hiked from Les Houches to Les Contamines.......
今天我们从莱斯乌什徒步到莱斯康塔米纳。
August 2, 2024: Today, we hiked from Les Houches to Les Contamines. Connie, still feeling the effects of our first day's challenging hike in Chamonix, found the idea of a 7 to 8-mile hike a bit too much, so she decided to stay in town. Our daughter and Chenggang initially planned to take the bus to Les Houches and then ride the cable car up to Bellevue to start the hike. However, yesterday we discovered that the Mont Blanc Tramway also reaches Bellevue, which would save us some time on the journey.
We set off early, taking the Y84 bus to the center of Saint-Gervais, aiming to catch the 8:00 AM Mont Blanc Tramway from Le Fayet up the mountain. When we arrived at the base, we found out that the 8:00 AM tram had been canceled, so we had to wait for the next one at 9:00 AM.
The first two miles of the hike from Bellevue were relatively flat, including a crossing over a suspension bridge spanning a large stream. After that, we ascended 1,500 feet to the Tricot Pass and then descended steeply by 2,000 feet to the Miage Refuge.
The refuge is a major stop on the TMB, with many hikers enjoying lunch and drinks. We treated ourselves to homemade blueberry pie and other delicious snacks.
After refueling, we continued on the trail. Light rain began to fall, so we put on our rain jackets, but it didn’t deter us from pressing on over another mountain pass before descending back into town. Fortunately, the rain lasted only about 20 minutes before it cleared up. This hike turned out to be the most challenging of our trip so far, covering 7.8 miles (12.4 km) with an elevation gain of 2,300 feet. The trail was both beautiful and demanding, offering stunning views along the way. We returned to town by 5:00 PM.
Although Connie didn’t join us for the hike, she didn’t stay idle. Les Contamines may be a small town, but it’s surrounded by mountains with beautiful scenery, including rivers and chalets, and plenty of trails to explore at your own pace. She ended up walking nearly 5 miles (7.5 km) around the town.
We ended our day with a nice dinner.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第七天-莱斯康塔米纳
2024年8月2日：今天我们从莱斯乌什（Les Houches）徒步到莱斯康塔米纳（Les Contamines）。Connie被第一天在霞慕尼的爬山折磨得很痛苦，觉得7～8英里的徒步对她来说有点长，所以决定她一个人留在镇上。女儿和成刚原本打算乘公交车到莱斯乌什，然后坐缆车上到Bellevue作为徒步起点。但昨天我们发现蒙布朗电车（Tramway Mont Blanc）也到达Bellevue同一地点，还能为我们节省一些路上的时间。
我们早早出发，乘坐Y84巴士前往圣热尔维（Saint-Gervais）市中心。计划是搭乘8:00从勒法耶（Le Fayet）到山上的蒙布朗电车。来到山脚下却发现8:00的电车被取消了，我们只好等9:00的下一班。从Bellevue开始的头两英里徒步相对平坦，还跨过了一座悬在大溪流上的吊桥。接着，我们攀升了1500英尺到Tricot山口（Tricot Pass），然后急降2000英尺到Miage山屋（Refuge de Miage）。这个山屋是TMB的主要停靠点，有很多人在那里享用午餐和饮料。我们品尝了自制的蓝莓派和其它美食，非常美味。
补充体力后，我们再次踏上小径。天开始下起了小雨，我们不得不穿上雨衣，但这并没有阻止我们继续翻越山头，然后下山回到镇上。好在雨下了大约20分钟后就停了。这是我们这次旅行中到目前为止最艰难的一次徒步。行程为7.8英里/12.4公里，攀登高度为2300英尺。但小径美丽而充满挑战，风景如画。我们在下午5点回到了镇上。
Connie 虽然没有与我们一起去徒步，但也没闲着。 莱斯康塔米纳镇虽小，但四面环山，周围环境很漂亮，有山有水有度假屋，还有许许多多的小径，想走多远就能走多远。绕着小镇她居然也走了近5英里/7.5公里。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 6-Les Contamines 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第六天
August 1, 2024
Today was a leisurely day.......
今天是轻松的一天。。。
August 1, 2024: Today was a leisurely day. We took the Y84 bus to the center of Saint-Gervais, then boarded the Mont Blanc Tramway (Tramway du Mont-Blanc) from Le Fayet up to Nid d’Aigle. Unfortunately, Nid d’Aigle was closed for renovations, so we could only go as far as Mont Lachat.
There wasn’t anything available at Mont Lachat station—no food, no drinks, nothing at all. We stayed for about 20 minutes before heading to Bellevue for lunch. The little chalet, La Chalette, was bustling with activity, and we had the best panini and fries there. The lawn in front of the chalet was dotted with deck chairs, and sitting on the grass under the blue sky and white clouds was a perfect way to relax.
After lunch, we took the tram back to Saint-Gervais. Instead of returning to Les Contamines right away, we spent some time exploring Saint-Gervais. We took a coffee break and then strolled around the town center before finally catching the Y84 bus back to Les Contamines.
In Les Contamines, we noticed that the dining options are much more limited compared to Chamonix. Although we didn’t find any particularly enticing restaurants, the food quality was decent. This town is much smaller than Chamonix, with all the restaurants and small supermarkets concentrated along a short main street. After dinner, we took a stroll along the street, and the village was charming under the evening sun. We hadn’t tried crêpes since arriving in France, thinking they were too sweet. But tonight, we gave in and found a restaurant for a late-night snack of crêpes and coffee—though we’re not sure if we’ll do it again.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第六天-莱斯康塔米纳
2024年8月1日：今天是轻松的一天。我们乘坐Y84巴士前往圣热尔维（Saint-Gervais）市中心，然后搭乘从勒法耶（Le Fayet）到山上鹰巢（Nid d’Aigle）的蒙布朗电车（Tramway du Mont-Blanc）。可惜的是，鹰巢因翻修而关闭，所以我们只能到达拉夏山（Mont Lachat）。
拉夏山站周边没吃没喝，什么都没有。我们停留了大约20分钟，然后前往贝尔维尤（Bellevue）吃午餐。小山屋La Chalette 生意特别好，我们在那里吃到了最好吃的帕尼尼（Panini)和炸薯条。小山屋前的草坪上还放了许多折椅，蓝天白云下坐在草坪上休息是再好不过了。午餐后，我们再次乘坐电车返回圣热尔维。我们没有马上回莱斯孔塔米讷（Les Contamines）小镇，而是在圣热尔维稍作停留。先是坐下喝杯咖啡休息，然后在市中心走走。最后才乘坐Y84巴士回到莱斯孔塔米讷。
在莱斯孔塔米讷，我们发现这里的餐饮选择比霞穆尼（Chamonix）少得多。虽然没有找到特别吸引我们的餐馆，但食物质量还不错。这个小镇比起霞慕尼镇要小很多。所有饭店，小超市都集中在短短的一条主街上。晚饭后我们去街上散散步，夕阳下的这个法国小镇很迷人。来法国几天一直没吃法国簿饼（crêpe），觉得太甜。今晚没控制住自己，在街上找了家餐厅吃了个夜宵，簿饼加咖啡，应该不会有下一次了。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 5-Les Contamines 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第五天
July 31, 2024
Today was a hiking day......
今天是徒步日。。。
July 31, 2024: Today was a hiking day. We started the day by taking the free shuttle to Notre Dame de la Gorge, a charming and historic chapel that serves as a key starting or ending point for the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB). After a brief visit, we took the Gorge cable car up and then transferred to another one to reach Signal.
From Signal, we hiked 2.6 miles to Refuge des Prés. The hiking was not too hard and the view was magnificent.
At the refuge, we enjoyed a delicious lunch while Chenggang had his own sandwich bought in the town.
We were mindful of the lift's closing time at 5 pm, so this time we didn’t delay and made sure to head back promptly. The round trip hike covered 5.2 miles with a 1,200 ft elevation gain, which we completed in 3.5 hours. Upon returning to the cable car station, we found ourselves with some extra time. We decided to relax and have another drink at the café, soaking in the magnificent views of the surrounding landscape. When we finally descended back to the base, we opted for the shuttle instead of walking back to town.
Overall, it was a perfect day of hiking—ideal weather, breathtaking views, and just the right amount of distance and elevation. We returned to the town and found a well-reviewed restaurant to enjoy a hearty meal as a reward for ourselves.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第五天-莱斯康塔米纳
2024年7月31日：今天是徒步日。我们搭乘免费的班车前往圣母峡谷教堂（（Notre Dame de la Gorge）。这是一座迷人的历史教堂，也是环勃朗峰徒步线路（TMB）的一个重要起点或终点。短暂参观后，我们乘坐峡谷缆车上山，然后换乘另一条缆车到达信号(Signal)。
从信号出发，我们徒步了2.6英里到达了普雷斯小山屋（Refuge des Pres)。路不算太难，但最后半个多小时的上坡路还是有点气喘吁吁的。眼看着小山屋就在前方，却感觉怎么都走不到。在那里享用了一顿丰盛的午餐之后，因为缆车下午5点关闭，这次我们吸取了教训，毫不耽搁地开始返回。整个往返徒步行程为5.2英里/8.3公里，海拔爬升1200英尺，我们用3.5小时完成了全部行程。
回到缆车站时，我们发现还有充裕的时间，于是我们三人在咖啡馆里坐下休息，喝些饮料，欣赏周围的美景。下到山脚后，我们不太想再走回镇上，于是又搭乘了免费班车。这是一次很棒的徒步之旅——完美的天气、令人叹为观止的景色，以及恰到好处的徒步距离和海拔爬升。
回到镇上找了家评论不错的饭店饱餐一顿犒劳一下自己。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 4- next stop 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第四天
July 30, 2024
We moved to the next town, ......
今天我们搬到了下一个小镇，。。。
July 30, 2024: We moved to the next town, Les Contamines-Montjoie, France, today. Although Les Contamines is only 20 miles away from Chamonix, there is no direct public transportation. We had to transfer in Saint-Gervais, by an hourly train or bus that runs every two hours. We opted for the train to Saint-Gervais, with the main train station in Chamonix being a 15-minute walk from our hotel. While the regional train is free within the Chamonix valley, it does not cover our destination, so we had to purchase tickets for the last two stops.
The train arrived at Saint-Gervais on time, but the bus to Les Contamines was more than an hour away, so we took the opportunity to enjoy a French lunch of crepes with ham and cheese at a nearby café.
We eventually boarded bus Y84 to Les Contamines. The two-bedroom apartment we rented was just a 2-minute walk from the bus stop. It was a nice apartment, but interestingly, we had to rent the bedding and towels separately. We also discovered no toilet paper and other essentials in the unit. Fortunately, there are three supermarkets nearby, so we bought the necessities for our stay. Once we settled in, we were eager to explore the area.
A community concert was happening in a park near Notre Dame de la Gorge, so we took a free city shuttle to check it out. The park, an adventure activity area for kids, had a BBQ restaurant where a two-man band was playing and singing. We sat there, sipping espresso and enjoying ice cream while listening to the music.
Afterward, we followed the TMB signs and walked about 2 miles back to town. Dinner was a pre-made pizza from the nearby grocery store Carrefour, and it wasn't bad at all.
勃朗峰山脉徒步游第四天 - 赶往下一站
2024年7月30日：今天我们搬到了下一个小镇——法国的莱斯康塔米纳（Les Contamines-Montjoie）。虽然莱斯康塔米纳距离霞慕尼（Chamonix）只有20英里，但没有直达的公共交通。我们不得不在圣热尔韦（Saint-Gervais）转乘，可以选择每小时一班的火车或每两小时一班的巴士。我们选择了乘火车到圣热尔韦，从我们酒店步行到霞慕尼的主要火车站大约需要15分钟。虽然霞慕尼山谷内的区域火车是免费的，但它不包括我们的目的地，因此我们不得不为最后两站购买车票。
火车准时到达圣热尔韦，但到莱斯康塔米纳的巴士还有一个多小时才到，于是我们利用这段时间在附近的饭店享用了法式午餐——火腿奶酪可丽饼。
最终我们登上了Y84路巴士前往莱斯康塔米纳。我们租的短期两居室公寓（Airbnb)距离巴士站仅有2分钟的步行路程。公寓很不错，厨房设备齐全。但奇怪的是，我们需要租用床上用品和浴室毛巾。我们还发现公寓里没有任何基本的生活必需品包括卫生纸。幸运的是，附近有三家超市，我们买了所需的用品。安顿好之后我们便出门去熟悉一下这个小镇及周边。
在靠近圣母教堂（Notre Dame de la Gorge）的一座公园里正在举行社区音乐会，于是我们搭乘免费的市区班车去看了看。到那里才发现这个公园是一个为孩子们设立的冒险活动区。里面有一家餐厅，两名歌手边弹边唱，有不少观众坐着观看。我们也凑个热闹，坐下一边喝着咖啡，一边吃着冰淇淋，享受现场音乐表演。
之后，我们沿着TMB的指示牌步行了大约2英里回到了小镇。晚餐是从家乐福（Carrefour）买的预制披萨，在租的公寓里自己烤了吃。出乎意料，披萨味道很好，不比饭店的差。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 3 -Chamonix 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第三天
July 29, 2024
Today, we each had different plans......
今天我们各自安排了不同的活动。。。
July 29, 2024: Today, we each had different plans: Chenggang went hiking alone, while Connie and our daughter opted for a more relaxed day, making use of their cable car passes.
Chenggang set off early, walking about 1.5 miles to the La Flégère valley station in Les Praz. From there, he took the cable car up to La Flégère and then transferred to the ski lift heading to L’Index. The mountain was incredibly peaceful in the morning. As he slowly ascended on the lift, it felt like he was the only person on the mountain, with only the gentle breeze and the distant sound of cowbells keeping him company—a scene straight out of a dream. After a brief stop at the top, he took the lift back down to La Flégère.
From La Flégère, Chenggang hiked to Planpraz, covering 3.3 miles (5.6 km) with an elevation gain of 1,100 feet. He completed the hike in less than two hours. At the 2000 Alt restaurant, he enjoyed an espresso and sparkling water, along with a ham and cheese sandwich he had brought for lunch. Afterward, he took the cable car back down to town, wrapping up his day of hiking.
Meanwhile, Connie and her daughter planned to visit the Aiguille du Midi again in the morning, as they hadn’t had time to visit the glass box at the top tower yesterday. However, just having a pass wasn’t enough—they also needed a timed entry ticket, and the earliest slot they could get was at 2:30 pm. With a few hours to spare, they took the bus to Les Praz, then the cable car up to La Flégère, and the lift to L’Index. By the time they arrived at La Flégère, Chenggang was long gone to Planpraz. They also saw the herds of cows and sheep grazing on the slopes, with patches of snow still on the mountains. The stunning scenery made the cable car ride worthwhile for the mother and daughter, who preferred not to hike. They had lunch at the Refuge de La Flégère midway up the mountain, then returned to town to prepare for their visit to the Aiguille du Midi.
At the cable car station, they watched a 20-minute 4D movie about Mont Blanc, which made the audience feel as if they were flying through the sky like birds, taking in the majestic views of Mont Blanc and experiencing the sensation of lightning, thunder, and snowstorms. Both found it to be a fascinating experience.
The glass box at the Aiguille du Midi, known as the “Step into the Void,” is the highest attraction in Europe. After taking the cable car, they had to take an elevator to the topmost level. All personal belongings had to be stored away, and they had to wear special slippers before stepping into the small glass box. Connie said standing there made her knees weak, and she didn’t dare to look down much. Groups of two to three people were quickly ushered in and out, with staff helping to take photos. Of course, the quality of the pictures wasn’t guaranteed.
After descending from the Aiguille du Midi, they returned to Chamonix town center to meet Chenggang for dinner. The town has countless restaurants, and we let our daughter pick one she liked.
We have spent several days in Chamonix, but tomorrow it’s time to move on to their next destination.
2024年7月29日: 今天我们各自安排了不同的活动：Chenggang去徒步，而Connie和女儿则继续使用缆车通票来个轻松游。
Chenggang一大早出发，步行约1.5英里到达Les Praz的La Flégère缆车山谷站，然后乘坐缆车上到La Flégère，接着换乘滑雪用的升降椅前往de L’Index。早晨的山间非常安静。坐在升降椅上慢慢往山上去，整座山仿佛只有自己一个人，伴随着微风和远处的牛铃声，宛如置身梦境。来到在山顶上稍作停留，便又坐升降椅返回La Flégère。
从Flégère开始徒步到Planpraz，全程3.3英里/5.6公里，海拔上升1100英尺。Chenggang用了不到两个小时完成了这段徒步。在2000 Alt餐厅喝上一杯意式浓缩咖啡和气泡水，再加早上买了带着的火腿奶酪三明治作为午餐。之后乘坐缆车回到了镇上，结束了这一天的短程徒步。
与此同时，Connie和女儿计划早上再去南针峰（Aiguille du Midi），因为昨天没时间去最高塔里的玻璃屋。但坐这缆车光有票还不够，还必须拿时间段的票，结果她们只拿到了下午2:30的票。于是她们乘公交车也去了Les Praz，然后也乘坐缆车到La Flégère，再坐升降椅上到de L’Index。沿途山坡上有成群的牛羊，山上还有雪。这么漂亮，对不愿爬山的母女俩来说光是坐个缆车来上面看看景发个呆也蛮不错。她们在半山腰的Refuge de La Flégère吃了午餐，随后返回镇中心准备上Aiguille du Midi峰。缆车站有放关于勃朗峰的4D电影，二十分的4D短片让观众像鸟一样在天空中飞翔，看勃朗峰的雄姿，同时也感受到电闪雷鸣，风雪交加的滋味，她们俩都觉得是一次蛮有意思的经历。
南针峰上的空中玻璃屋(Step into the the Void)是欧洲最高的景点，除了坐缆车，还要另外再坐电梯上到最高层面。必须将所有的随身物品存放掉，换上专门提供的拖鞋慢慢走进小玻璃屋。Connie说站在那里让人腿发软，不怎么敢往下看。二到三人一组快进快出，工作人员帮忙拍照留念。当然照片的质量就不能保证了。
从南针峰下来回到霞慕尼 (Chamonix)镇中心与Chenggang 会合吃晚饭。镇上饭店不计其数，女儿找了家她喜欢的饭店。
来霞慕尼好几天了，明天要去下一站。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 2-Chamonix 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第二天
July 28, 2024
We took a scheduled rest day today.....
今天是我们的休息日。。。
July 28, 2024: We took a scheduled rest day today after a long hour hike yesterday. We bought a two-day lift pass to use the lifts to explore the area. Due to the high wind in the mountains, the Mont Blanc Panoramic cable car was not open in the morning. But we were told the update for the panoramic ride was at noon, so we booked the gondola for Midi before 12.
Today’s weather was perfect. First, the gondola took us to Plan De l’aiguille then switched to a different gondola to Aiguille du Midi at 12605 feet, the highest cable car in France. Once we were at the top, we quickly went to the ticket window for Panoramic Mont Blanc, and it had just started to open. Panoramic Mont Blanc Cable Car is a 30-minute ride over the glaciers from Aiguille du Midi in France to Pointe Helbronner in Italy with a panoramic view of the Mont Blanc massif. We embarked on one of three cars in a group and had a once-a-lifetime cable ride. We were completely surrounded by the blue sky and the mountains capped with white glaciers. We admired roped climbers scaling the glaciers below as our cable car moved slowly from France to Italy.
After getting off at Pointe Helbronner in Italy, at an elevation of 11,358 ft (3,462 m), we wanted to have lunch at the mountaintop restaurant, but it was already fully booked. So, we just had a coffee and a small pastry as a quick snack. Then, we went to the small 360-degree viewing platform at the summit to take photos of Mont Blanc at the closest distance.
At Pointe Helbronner, we used our two-day lift passes to get on a Skyway cable car down to Courmayeur, Italy. There is not much near the Skyway station, so we just had drinks in a cafe, went up via Skyway, and got off in the middle to visit Europe’s highest garden.
We knew the cable car back to France would be closed at 4:30 pm. At 4:10 pm, we were in a hurry to return to the cable car station for another 5-minute ride to the Pointe Helbronnor. However, we barely missed a gondola and waited for the next one, which would take us up to the top to catch the Panoramic Cable Car. The gondola came, and the crews decided to clean up the car and started to do the maintenance. It made us anxious, but there was nothing we could do about it. We patiently waited until they finished the job and started the gondola again. When the car reached the top, three of us rushed to the cable car station at 4:28 pm. The door to the embarking area was already closed. A crew member opened the door and let us in. We were the last people in the last car to leave Italy. We were so grateful that we made it. If not, we had to go down to Courmayeur again and perhaps take the bus going through the tunnel back to Chamonix.
The Panoramic Cable Car ride back to Aiguille du Midi was even better. The experience of traveling over glaciers and surrounded by mountains was one of the best we had had, probably second to the experience in Antarctica.
Once at the Midi point, we continued to explore the area. We watched two Austrian climbers come down from the rock and took some pictures of them. Later, we sent those pictures to them via WhatsApp. They started at 8:30 am and finished at 6 pm. We wanted to spend more time at the top, but the last car down was 6:30 pm. They closed the area, and we were the last group to go down.
It was supposed to be a break day, but we didn’t make it easy. Once we were back in town, we had dinner in an Indian restaurant. The food was delicious, probably anything delicious after a whole day's activity. Chamonix was very charming and beautiful in the evening. It’s perfect for an after-meal walk.
2024年7月28日：昨天的长途跋涉让我们疲惫不堪，今天是我们的休息日，不爬山。我们买了两日的霞慕尼（Chamonix)缆车通票，方便游玩。今天早上由于山上风太大，山顶上的勃朗峰全景缆车没开。不过工作人员告诉我们，12点会有信息更新。我们决定在中午12点之前先乘坐缆车到南针峰（Aiguille Du Midi)。
今天的天气非常理想。首先我们乘坐缆车到达普朗德拉艾居站，然后换乘另一条缆车到达法国最高的缆车站——海拔12,605英尺的南针峰。到达山顶后，我们立刻去全景缆车售票窗口，发现缆车刚刚开放。勃朗峰全景缆车是一次30分钟的旅程，从法国的南针峰跨越冰川到达意大利的赫尔布罗纳峰，沿途可以欣赏到勃朗峰山脉的壮丽景色。小缆车在半空中被蔚蓝的天空和白雪覆盖的山峰环绕，慢慢地将我们从法国带到了意大利。沿途看到不少登山者在冰川上攀爬。
在意大利赫尔布罗纳峰(Pointe Helbronner) at 11358 ft (3,462 m)下车后，想在山顶餐厅里吃上个午餐，可餐厅巳满座，我们就随意喝杯咖啡吃个小面食了事。然后在就山顶上360度小平台上最近距离和勃朗峰留影。
利用我们二日通票乘坐360度旋转天空缆车下到库马约尔（Courmayeur)。没想到天空缆车站附近什么都没有，且离库马约尔小镇还有点距离。在缆车站旁的咖啡馆喝了咖啡之后我们便原路返回，并在中途停下参观了欧洲最高的植物园。我们知道从意大利赫尔布罗纳峰返回法国的全景缆车在下午4:30关闭，所以我们在4:10时急忙赶往天空缆车站准备返回赫尔布罗纳峰。不巧刚好错过了一班缆车，不得不等下一班。可缆车一到工作人员却告诉说要先做维护，我们只能耐心等待，直到维护完成，缆车重新启用。到达赫尔布罗纳峰后，我们迅速赶到全景缆车站，此时已是4:28。所幸一名工作人员及时看到我们，特地打开了已关闭的门。我们总算坐上最后一班返回法国的全景缆车，否则将不得不返回库马约尔，然后可能需要乘坐巴士通过隧道回到霞慕尼。回程的全景缆车之旅再一次让我们穿越冰川，置身群山之间，很震撼。
回到法国的南针峰后，正好看到两位攀岩者从陡峭的岩壁上慢慢下来，顺手拍了些照片。这二位奥地利来的攀岩者从早上8:30就开始攀爬，只到到下午近6点才完成。稍后通过WhatsApp我们将照片发送给了他们。尽管我们希望在山顶多待些时间多看看，最后一班下山的缆车是下午6:30，我们又是最后一批离开的游客。
回到镇上后，我们在一家印度餐馆享用了美味的晚餐。忙忙碌碌一整天后，吃什么都觉得格外香。
Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 1- Chamonix 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第一天
July 27, 2024
The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is ......
环绕勃朗峰山脉，。。。
July 27, 2024: The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is a well-known long-distance hiking trail that encircles the Mont Blanc massif. After researching the trails and discussing options with friends who have completed the TMB, we decided that attempting the entire route or even half of it wasn't the best choice for us. Instead, we designed our own version of a more comfortable and flexible TMB, consisting of several day hikes from three different towns, allowing for a completely adaptable schedule. This way, we could decide whether to hike based on weather conditions and how we felt each day.
Our first stop was Chamonix, France, where we stayed for four nights at the Plan B Hotel, conveniently located next to the bus station.
After a delicious breakfast at a local bakery café, we set off for our first hike. We walked to the Planpraz gondola station and took the gondola up to Planpraz. From there, we switched to the Brévent Cable Car, which took us to Le Brévent, at an altitude of 8,285 feet. The view from the summit was absolutely breathtaking, offering us our first glimpse of Mont Blanc peeking out from behind the clouds.
Eager to begin our descent, we enthusiastically started our hike down to Refuge de Bellachat for lunch.
Although the food at the refuge was decent, it was the magnificent view that truly made the experience memorable.
After lunch, we continued our descent towards Les Houches. The downhill trail proved to be tough on our knees, and we found ourselves slowing down significantly after lunch. Despite our initial energy, we quickly realized the second half of the hike was more challenging than anticipated. Other hikers seemed to pass us with ease, swiftly disappearing from sight as we continued our descent.
The descent covered approximately 5,000 feet and 7.5 miles, taking us close to six hours to complete. Though everyone was exhausted by the end, we managed to take a group photo in front of the iconic TMB gate, a testament to our accomplishment.
Afterward, we took the bus back to Chamonix. Too tired to venture far for dinner, we opted for a nearby pizza place adjacent to our hotel. The day was exhausting but rewarding, and we were glad to have made it through our first hike in the Mont Blanc region.
2024年7月27日：环绕勃朗峰山脉，途经法国，意大利和瑞士的环勃朗峰徒步路线（TMB）是一条著名的长途徒步路线，全程总长103英里/165公里。经过对路线的研究，并与完成过TMB的朋友们交流后，我们觉得整个环绕徒步行，甚至连走一半都不适合我们。相反，我们自行安排了一条更加灵活的TMB版本，安营扎寨三个不同的小镇。每个小镇住几天，而不是每天挪一个窝。挑选了从三个不同小镇出发的几条日间徒步路线，充分利用公交，火车和缆车，允许我们根据天气和当天的身体状况自由决定是否进行徒步。
我们的第一站是法国霞慕尼（Chamonix)。我们在这里住四晚，酒店紧邻车站，位置非常便利。
昨晚到达这里，先稍微熟悉一下小镇。今天一早在镇上一家面包咖啡馆享用完美味早餐后，我们开始了第一天的徒步之旅。我们步行来到缆车站，乘坐缆车上到Planpraz，然后换乘Brévent缆车，抵达海拔8285英尺的山顶Le Brévent。山顶的景色绝对令人惊叹，让我们第一次在云层的缝隙中窥见勃朗峰的雄姿。
带着兴奋的心情，我们开始徒步下山。接下来几个小时将是全程下坡，且路很长。大约二个小时左右我们来到Bellachat小山屋。在那里小息并享用了简单的午餐。虽然食物一般，但周围的景色让人心旷神怡。
午餐后，我们继续往莱苏什（Les Houches)镇走。下坡路对我们的膝盖颇具挑战，午餐后我们的步伐明显慢了下来。尽管一开始充满活力，但我们很快意识到下半段的徒步比想象中更困难。其他徒步者似乎轻松超过我们，很快就消失在我们的视线中。
终于走到了Les Houches小镇。这段路程下降了大约5000英尺，我们行走了7.5英里/12公里，花费了将近六个小时才完成。Connie本来膝盖就不好，今天的路对她而言很艰难。尽管每个人都筋疲力尽，但我们还是在标志性的TMB大门框前合影留念。
之后，我们乘坐公交车返回霞慕尼。由于太累无心走远，我们选择了酒店旁边的一家披萨店用餐。今天虽然疲惫却充实，我们为自己在勃朗峰地区的第一次徒步感到自豪。
Lyon, France 里昂
July 26, 2024
We spent the whole morning exploring the historic city of Lyon.......
昨晚上到里昂时已经很晚，。。。
July 26, 2024: We spent the whole morning exploring the historic city of Lyon. Our day began with an Uber ride to the old town, where we found a small café for breakfast. Next, we walked to the funicular station, which took us to Fourvière Hill to see the magnificent Basilica of Notre Dame. The platform behind the church offered breathtaking panoramic views of Lyon, but the basilica's interior truly captivated us. The lavish mosaics and stained glass decorations felt like incredible paintings from a distance.
After soaking in the views and the beauty of the basilica, we made our way down to Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon), a UNESCO World Heritage site. We wandered through the narrow streets and discovered the famous traboules, the secret passageways connecting different streets, which were used by silk weavers centuries ago. Unfortunately, we didn't have more time to savor Lyon's renowned cuisine, as we had a train to catch to Geneva, Switzerland.
But at least while at the train station, we had a wonderful lunch before leaving Lyon. Our train ride took three and a half hours, and upon arrival at the Geneva station, we met with our daughter, who had flown in from New York City a couple of days earlier. The next ten days were meant to be a family vacation, but our son had to cancel his trip due to a hip injury he sustained while running. The doctor advised against traveling, so it was just the three of us on this adventure.
Geneva is not our final destination for the day yet. We boarded the bus to Chamonix, France, the starting point of our Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) adventure. Since our bus was delayed, we enjoyed a simple meal at a cafe with a great view near the bus terminal while waiting.
Finally, we arrived in Chamonix, France. Our hotel room at Plan B in Chamonix offered a stunning view of the sunset, making for a perfect end to the day.
2024年7月26日：昨晚上到里昂（Lyon)时已经很晚，直接入住酒店休息了。今天一早就出门对这座历史悠久的城市来个短短的到此一游。
我们乘坐Uber到里昂的老城区（old town), 先找了家咖啡馆吃个简单的早餐。清晨街上几乎没人，非常安静。然后走到缆车站坐缆车上福尔维耶山去看圣母大教堂。教堂后面的观景平台提供了里昂的全景视野，但教堂内部的装饰才真正让我们震撼。那些从远处看到的墙上，顶上一幅幅令人惊叹的精美画作，走近时才发现居然全部是用华丽的马赛克拼图而成的。其实整个教堂内部包括地上用的都是马赛克，再加上那些彩色玻璃，显得非常漂亮。
我们没再坐缆车下山，而是从山上一路走下来回到了老里昂区。这里属于联合国教科文组织的世界遗产之一。有着狭窄的街道，还有著名的traboules，这些是用于连接街道之间的秘密通道，以前是丝绸织工使用的。如今有几个通道对外开放。为了寻找这几个小通道，我们在老城区的小巷里走了不少路。每找到一个，进去走一走都会兴奋一下。遗憾是今天只能有半天的时间游里昂，因为我们得赶火车去日内瓦（Geneva)。
在里昂火车站里找了家看着有点高级的餐厅吃午餐，没英文菜单，但一位热情的服务员还能说上几个单词。结果上来的菜每一道都很好吃，就是觉得都不像我们所点的。因为要赶火车，急急忙忙吃完。最后还是忍不住问了服务员，她还真把所有菜都搞错了。本来还遗憾没能在里昂享受美食，结果在火车站解决了。
三个半小时的火车旅程后，我们从法国里昂来到瑞士的日内瓦。在火车站见到了提前从纽约飞来的女儿。这本该是一次家庭度假，但由于儿子在跑步时髋部受伤，医生建议他不要旅行，所以他在最后时刻取消了行程。于是接下来的旅程就变成三人行了。
从日内瓦，我们乘坐巴士前往法国的霞慕尼（Chamonix), 开始我们的勃朗峰（Mont Blanc）之旅。
Port Vendres and Collioure 旺德尔港和科利乌尔
July 12, 2024
Our first port of call was Port Vendres......
我们游轮的第一站是法国的旺德尔港。。。
July 12, 2024: Our first port of call was Port Vendres. We joined the ship-organized tour of "Hike through Wine Country." The hike was a 3-4 mile trek through vineyards, over hills, and down to a winemaker, Cellier Dominicain, in Collioure, France. The cellar, originally a church, had been converted into a winemaking facility. We tasted six different wines there, but couldn’t tell the difference.
After the wine tasting, we spent an hour in Collioure. The lively town was noticeably more crowded than Port Vendres, with throngs of tourists filling the streets, making it clear that Collioure is a well-loved vacation destination.
We then took a trolley back to the tender port. Instead of heading back to the ship directly, we wandered around the town and noticed locals enjoying bowls of steamed mussels at a restaurant. The temptation was too great to pass by. We sat down and ordered a big bowl of garlic mussels with French fries to share. The mussels were exceptional, unlike any we've had before.
Tonight, we dined at Umi Uma by Nobu restaurant, a reservation we secured before boarding the ship. Instead of opting for hot main courses, we indulged in sashimi and tempura. As always, Nobu did not disappoint, leaving us completely satisfied with our meal.
2024年7月12日：我们游轮的第一站是法国的旺德尔港（Port Vendres)。我们参加了游轮组织的“葡萄酒乡徒步游”。这个徒步游翻过山丘，穿过葡萄园，大概走了3～4英里的距离，然后来到法国科利乌尔（Collioure)的酿酒厂，Cellier Dominicain。这个酿酒厂以前是一座教堂，现在改成了酿酒厂。我们品尝了六种不同的葡萄酒，喝不出什么名堂来。
品酒结束后，我们有一个小时的时间在科利乌尔自由活动。这个小镇比旺德尔港要漂亮的多。沙滩上不少人，街上都是游客，显然是一个热门的度假胜地。
然后我们乘坐小电车返回旺德尔港。我们没有直接回到船上，而是在镇上闲逛。路过一家小餐厅，看到当地人都在吃青口，人人一大碗。这个诱惑太大了，我们无法抗拒。于是我们也坐下来，点了一大碗蒜味青口和薯条分享。青口个头是比较小的那种，非常美味。其实我们俩平时并不怎么喜欢吃青口，但今天这碗真是好吃，这一大碗没几分钟就解决掉了。
今天晚餐是在Nobu的Umi Uma餐厅享用。早在上船前就已预定好了。今晚没有叫热的主菜，而是以生鱼片和天妇罗为主。Nubu还是一如既往地让我们吃得满意而归。
Nîmes and Barcelona 尼姆和巴塞罗那
July 8, 2024
Since we could only book seats on the morning train to Barcelona,......
由于我们只能订到早上去巴塞罗那(Barcelona)的火车座位。。。
July 8, 2024: Since we could only book seats on the morning train to Barcelona, we left Avignon early and made our way to Nîmes first. Upon arrival at the Nîmes station, we dropped off our luggage at a nearby hotel for 5 euro per bag.
In Nîmes, besides transferring the train to Barcelona, we want to visit the amphitheater of Nîmes, also known as the Arènes de Nîmes, one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world. Built around 70 AD, it shares a similar design with the Colosseum in Rome, though on a smaller scale. The amphitheater is still in use today for concerts and other events and is open for tours. As we arrived before it opened, we took the opportunity to visit another historic landmark, the Maison Carrée, a beautifully preserved Roman temple. Nîmes, often referred to as the "French Rome," is rich with historic Roman architecture, and we found ourselves wishing we had more time to explore the city.
After a quick espresso, we returned to the amphitheater for a brief 20-minute tour. We climbed up and down the stadium steps, enjoying the unique experience of having the place almost entirely to ourselves.
Next, we embarked on a four-hour train ride to Barcelona. The journey was smooth, and we both took advantage of the time to rest. Although we arrived at the station on time, it took an hour and a half to book seats for our future rides—a frustrating experience that highlighted the need for a better ticketing system.
Once we settled into our hotel, we set out to explore the city. Our hotel was located right next to one of the busiest streets in Barcelona, and the sheer number of people on the street was overwhelming. We had heard stories of protests against tourists, but we were unprepared for the crowds that greeted us.
We sampled local tapas before heading to Barcelona beach, where we relaxed for a while. Later, we tried Thai tapas, which turned out to be delicious.
With the sun setting around 9:30 pm, we found ourselves ready for bed after dinner, wrapping up our first evening in Barcelona.
尼姆和巴塞罗那
2024年7月8日: 由于我们只能订到早上去巴塞罗那(Barcelona)的火车座位，我们改变了计划，一大早就离开了阿维尼翁(Avignon)，前往尼姆(Nimes)，另一个法国南方小镇。到达尼姆车站后，我们将行李寄存在车站旁的一家酒店，每件行李5欧元。
在尼姆除了转车去巴塞罗那，还想去参观尼姆斗兽场（Arènes de Nîmes），世界上保存最完好的罗马竞技场之一。它建于公元70年左右，结构设计与罗马的科洛西姆相似，但规模较小。这个斗兽场如今用于音乐会和其它活动，同时也对游客开放。由于我们到达时斗兽场尚未开放，我们先去看了另一处历史遗迹——梅森卡雷（Maison Carrée），一座罗马神庙。尼姆常被称为“法国的罗马”，因为这里有许多历史悠久的罗马建筑。真希望我们有更多的时间探索这座城市, 只能说是计划跟不上变化。
在斗兽场边上找了家咖啡馆边喝咖啡边等开门，然后第一个买票进斗兽场，来了个20分钟的快速参观。我们上串下跳攀登了整个斗兽场，没其他游客，我们二个人几乎拥有了整个场地，非常不错。
接下来是四小时的火车旅程前往巴塞罗那。旅途平稳，我们都得到了需要的休息。火车准时到达了巴塞罗那火车站。因为后面行程中有二程火车手机上无法预订座位，我们又在火车站排队花了一个半小时的时间将这二程座位预订好。这个票务系统的管理确实需要改进。
我们的酒店就在巴塞罗那最繁忙的La Rambla大街上。入住酒店后，我们开始探索这座向往已久的城市。但街上的人之多，我们的头都开始晕了，有些不知所措。前几天我们有听说过这里抗议游客的故事，虽没遇到抗议者，但没想到街上会有这么多游客。
我们从酒店往巴塞罗那海滩方向走，沿途先找了家店品尝了当地的塔帕斯（Tapas)。来到海边坐海滩上休息了一会儿后，我们又去尝试了泰国塔帕斯，非常美味。
这里的日落大约在晚上9:30，晚餐都吃得很晚。基本上晚餐后就已经是我们正常的就寝时间了。 但到了这里也就入乡随俗跟着晚吃晚睡了。
Avignon 阿维尼翁
July 7, 2024
Unlike yesterday’s gloom, today’s weather was......
与昨天的天气完全不同，今天阳光明媚。。。
July 7, 2024: Unlike yesterday’s gloom, today’s weather was sunny with a gentle breeze—perfect for an outdoor adventure. We set out before seven o’clock to explore the local market, known for its fresh produce and diverse food booths. He opted for a hearty pork chop with French fries, while she chose the pain aux raisins. Both were delicious and reasonably priced.
After breakfast, we took a leisurely stroll along Rue des Teinturiers. This charming cobblestone street, running alongside a canal that once powered water wheels for textile drying, was peaceful in the early morning with only a few tourists around. Due to last night's heavy rain, which caused a huge mess, the cleaning crew were busy on the streets. The old buildings, shaded by big trees, added to the tranquil atmosphere.
At nine o’clock, we joined a small group of travelers for a tour of three picturesque towns outside Avignon. Our first stop was the bustling Sunday market in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the largest in the region and the biggest we've ever seen. With only an hour to explore, we could barely scratch the surface, but we did manage to pick up a hefty chunk of 12- and 40-month-aged cheese as travel snacks. It was a delightful experience, witnessing the vibrant market that caters primarily to locals.
Next, we visited Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, a 12th-century Cistercian abbey surrounded by fields of lavender in full bloom. The sight of the vibrant purple flowers against the backdrop of the historic abbey was breathtaking, and we took our time wandering through the fields, savoring the beauty of the moment.
Our journey continued to the hilltop village of Gordes, one of the most beautiful in the Luberon region. Known for its stunning architecture and rich history, Gordes offered breathtaking views and a sense of timeless charm. However, our time there felt all too brief, and we wished for more time to immerse ourselves in its unique culture.
Our final stop was the ochre cliffs of Roussillon, famous for their striking red, orange, and yellow hues. Once a center for natural pigment production, the cliffs are now a popular tourist attraction. We enjoyed lunch nearby, with the beautiful scenery and pleasant weather making it a perfect stop. The tour was fantastic, giving us a deeper appreciation of the Provençal countryside.
Back in Avignon, we hurried to join a guided tour of the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes). We were surprised to learn that this massive Gothic fortress was the seat of the Catholic popes during the 14th century when the papacy was based in Avignon rather than Rome. Despite its emptiness today, the palace’s sheer scale and historical significance made the visit worthwhile. The time-slotted ticket system, used to manage the crowds, added a modern touch to the ancient setting.
Feeling fatigued, we took a break at a café on the plaza of the Pope’s palace. As we sipped espresso and sparkling water, we watched an art performance in the square, soaking in the lively atmosphere. After our brief rest, we walked to the Pont Saint-Bénézet (Pont d’Avignon), which now stands only partially intact. Both the bridge and the palace are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Avignon is renowned for its annual arts festival, one of the world’s most important contemporary performing arts events, featuring theater, dance, music, and more. Although we didn’t catch any formal shows due to the limited number of English-speaking performances, we were enveloped by the festival’s vibrant energy. Posters for performances were everywhere, and street performers worked the crowds, promoting their shows. The city was alive, with restaurants and bars buzzing well past midnight. The combination of good food, drink, and art created an unforgettable atmosphere. Of course, we ended our day with a simple yet satisfying French meal at Restaurant EAT.
阿维尼翁
2024年7月7日：与昨天的天气完全不同，今天阳光明媚，微风轻拂，正是户外活动的完美天气。我们在七点前出发去了镇里的小集巿场。那里出售农产品，还有几个食品摊位。除了一个羊角面包，一个葡萄圈，我们还点了一份带炸薯条的大猪排。俩人吃得津津有味，再配上咖啡，太享受了。所有东西还是一贯的美味可口，价格合理。感觉现在全世界就美国物价最贵了。
早餐后，我们悠闲地漫步在Rue des Teinturiers，一条由鹅卵石铺成的街道。它沿着一条水渠，而这条水渠驱动着三个历史上用于纺织染色工艺的水轮。街道两旁是许多老建筑和大树，清晨游客稀少，显得非常安静。时不时能看到清洁工在将被昨天大雨搞得面目全非的街道冲洗的干干净净。
九点钟，我们与另外六位游客参加了当地一个游览阿维尼翁（Avignon)外面三个小镇的半日游。导游首先带我们去了L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue的一个大型周日市场。这是该地区最大的市场，也是我们见过的最大的户外综合市场。导游给了我们一个小时的时间来自由行。这点时间根本不够，进入巿场没多久就开始就点迷路了，一小时内逛完所有摊位是不可能的。我们买了一大块12个月和一小块40个月的奶酪作为旅行小吃，再加上一小袋薰衣草就匆匆赶回小巴。
接着我们往山顶历史名村Gordes方向去。距离Gordes不远的Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque有着名信片般的美景。这座12世纪的西多会修道院被盛开的薰衣草田围绕着，风景如画。Gordes是卢贝隆（Luberon)地区最美丽的村庄之一。它以其令人惊叹的建筑、历史意义和壮丽的景观而闻名。可惜我们没有足够时间来充分欣赏这里的氛围和文化。
我们的最后一站是Roussillon的赭石悬崖，以其红色、橙色和黄色的土壤而闻名。天然颜料的生产在合成颜料出现之前非常繁荣。现在这里只是一个旅游景点。借着今天的好天气，我们在悬崖附近的饭店吃个午餐，享受美景和美食，最后再来份薰衣草冰淇淋。这个半日游很棒，通过走出城市，我们对乡村有了更多的了解。
回到城市后，我们急忙赶去下一个行程，参观教皇宫（Palais des Papes）。之前我们并不知道阿维尼翁这个巨大的哥特式堡垒曾是天主教教皇的驻地，直到14世纪教廷才搬到罗马。它是欧洲最大和最重要的中世纪哥特式建筑之一。由于访问该地区的游客众多，许多景点，包括这个教皇宫都采用了时段票系统来控制人流。游客只能在票上的时间段进入场馆。尽管现在教皇宫对公众开放，但它基本上是一座没有多少家具或其它物品的空老建筑，但仍值得一看。
马不停蹄地忙了大半天，我们感到很累，于是在教皇宫广场的咖啡馆坐了下来。一边喝着咖啡和苏打水，一边观看广场上的艺术表演。稍作休息后，我们参观了现在仅部分保存完好的圣贝内泽桥（Pont Saint-Bénézet）。桥和教皇宫都是联合国教科文组织的世界遗产。
阿维尼翁因其年度艺术节而闻名，艺术节包括戏剧、舞蹈、音乐和其它表演。它是世界上最重要的当代表演艺术活动之一。然而，由于只有有限数量的英语表演，我们没有机会看到任何正式的演出。尽管如此，我们还是感受到了艺术节的热烈氛围。介绍演出的海报满大街都是，街头免费表演随处可见。表演者经常在街上举着他们的海报，吸引观众来看他们的演出。今天是个好天气，餐馆和酒吧都在户外摆满桌椅，午夜后仍然熙熙攘攘。吃饭、喝酒、欣赏艺术表演——多么美好的生活！当然我们也继续享用我们的法国餐。
Strasbourg and train in Europe 斯特拉斯堡和欧洲火车旅行
July 6, 2024
We started our day early by heading straight......
一早醒来，第一件事就是去酒店对面的火车站，。。。
July 6, 2024: We started our day early by heading straight to the train station across from the hotel to change our reserved seats for an earlier train. Afterward, we stopped by a nearby bakery, where we ordered the chocolate croissant, the raisin swirl, a cup of latte, and an Americano. We sat by the entrance, enjoying our breakfast and people-watching. The pastries were fresh and delicious, and the prices were surprisingly reasonable—much cheaper than in the U.S. It was a pleasant surprise to be able to find breakfast so easily at such an early hour, especially considering how difficult it was to find any breakfast during our last trip to Europe two years ago.
The Notre-Dame Cathedral here, a historic Catholic church, was built in the 14th century and remained the tallest church in Europe until the 19th century. After an early visit to the cathedral hall, we climbed the 330 steps to the church’s viewing platform, though the narrow, winding stairs were quite challenging, especially for older visitors. This observation deck used to be a gathering place for residents during holidays and weekends. From up there, we enjoyed a stunning 360-degree view of the city. After visiting the cathedral, we continued exploring the town center. Last night, we only had time for a quick walk after arriving, but today, with a closer look, we found the town even more charming.
As lunchtime approached, it began to rain, so we headed to a highly-rated small restaurant we had found through a Google search. The waitress was incredibly kind—seeing us outside with no place to escape the rain, she invited us in early to sit down, even though the restaurant wasn’t officially open yet. We decided to try a local specialty—plain crêpes, which were delicious and not greasy. We had initially planned to try another specialty dish—sausages—but they weren’t available for lunch, so we opted for a beef salad instead. The salad was a generous bowl of fresh vegetables topped with plenty of beef. The vegetables were crisp and refreshing, but there was so much beef that we couldn’t finish it.
After lunch, we returned to the train station to book seats for our next journey from France to Spain in advance, then went back to the hotel to collect our luggage and head to our next destination. During our 2022 train tour in Europe, we were impressed by the efficiency and convenience of the European railway system, especially in Switzerland. With our Eurail pass, we boarded and disembarked without issues, and delays were rare. However, our German friend had warned us not to expect the same efficiency level in other parts of Europe, particularly in Germany. This time, our first 30-minute leg train in Germany was delayed by over 40 minutes, almost causing us to miss our connecting train to Strasbourg. Today, in France, our train to Avignon TGV was delayed by more than 10 minutes, causing us to miss the 5-minute connecting train to the Avignon city center, forcing us to wait an hour for the next one.
One of the most frustrating aspects of train travel this time has been booking seats. Many trains require reservations, and the fees aren’t cheap—around $20-25 per person per trip. Additionally, finding and booking seats has proven to be difficult. France’s high-speed trains impose many restrictions on seats for Eurail pass holders, sometimes offering no seats at all, which has forced us to adjust our itinerary based on train pass availability. In Spain, seats on high-speed trains can’t be booked online. During our last trip in Switzerland and most other parts of Europe, we didn’t need to reserve seats, and even when we did, online reservations were simple.
We arrived in Avignon in the evening. Avignon is a historic city in southern France, and we chose to visit because it hosts France’s oldest summer arts festival. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side. As we made our way to the city center for dinner after checking into our hotel, the rain began to pour even harder. What should have been a lively weekend evening was dampened by the downpour. The only people on the streets were like us, looking for a place to eat. By the time we finally sat down to enjoy a delicious French dinner, we were completely drenched. Despite the simple meal, it tasted fantastic. We hadn’t experienced much French cuisine before; we always associated it with expensive, elaborate dishes. But we were pleasantly surprised by how simple, flavorful, and affordable everyday French food can be.
斯特拉斯堡和欧洲火车旅行
7月六日：一早醒来，第一件事就是去酒店对面的火车站，把今天下午预定的座位票换成早一班的。然后在酒店附近的面包房里，点了巧克力羊角面包、葡萄圈、拿铁和美式咖啡，坐在店门口边吃边喝边看过往行人。面包又新鲜又好吃，价格也很合理，比美国便宜。大清早这么容易就有早餐吃，这可是有点出乎预料。记得前二年来欧洲玩，因为起得早，常常为买不到早餐而发愁。
这里的天主教圣母教堂建于十四世纪，一直到十九世纪都是欧洲最高的教堂。赶早参观完教堂大厅后，又爬了三百三十三级台阶登上教堂的观望台，不过那盘旋式的狭小台阶对上了年纪的人来说不好走。这观望台是以前居民在节假日和周末聚会的场所。在那上面，360度的城市美景尽收眼底。看过教堂，又继续在镇中心走走。昨晚刚到匆匆走了一下，今天再多看一眼，越看越觉得这个小镇漂亮。
还没到午饭时间就开始下雨了，我们来到提前找好的一家评论很不错的小饭店。服务员态度真不错，虽还没到营业时间，看我们在店外没地方躲雨，就提早让我们先进饭店坐下。今天又要了一份当地特色原味薄饼，味道鲜美而不腻。原计划来这家饭店是要吃另一特色菜 - 香肠，结果午餐没有，就点了牛肉色拉。超大一盆新鲜蔬菜，加上许多牛肉。蔬菜新鲜爽口，牛肉实在太多吃不完。
午饭后我们又来到火车站，把后面从法国进西班牙的火车座位先订了，然后回酒店拿行李赶往下一站。上次我们在欧洲乘火车旅行时，对欧洲铁路系统的效率和便捷性印象深刻，尤其是在瑞士。凭借我们的欧铁通票，我们上下车毫无问题，延误也很少。然而，当时与我们同行的德国朋友提醒我们，说其它欧洲国家，特别是德国，可能就没有同样的效率。这次刚到德国，我们的第一段30分钟旅程的火车就延误了超过40分钟，让我们几乎错过了转乘到斯特拉斯堡的火车。今天在法国，我们前往阿维尼翁TGV的火车延误了超过10分钟，导致我们错过了前往市中心的5分钟接驳火车，不得不等一个小时才搭上下一班。
这次旅行中最让人纠结的是预订座位。首先，许多火车要求必须订位，而预订费并不便宜，每人每次需要额外支付20-25美元。其次，找到并预订座位并不容易。法国的高速列车对通票持有者的座位限制很多，甚至没有座位可供预订，这迫使我们必须根据火车通票的可用性调整行程。在西班牙，高速列车的座位无法在线预订。上次在瑞士和欧洲大部分地区，我们不需要预订座位，即使需要，在线预订也很简单。
我们傍晚到达阿维尼翁。阿维尼翁是法国南部的一座历史名城，我们选择这里是因为它有法国最古老的夏季艺术节。可惜天公不作美，当我们入住酒店后前往城中心吃晚餐时，雨越下越大。本来应该是一个很热闹的周末晚上，被一场大雨搅局。街头就只能看到像我们这样找地方吃饭的人了。等我们终于坐在餐馆享用美味的法式晚餐时，已经全身湿透。尽管晚餐很简单，但味道很好。 之前法国菜吃的不多。每当提起法国菜，就觉得是那种很贵的法国大餐。没想到法国的普通菜简单，味道也这么好，物美还价廉。
Condor Airlines and Strasbourg France 康多尔航空, 法国斯特拉斯堡
July 4-5, 2024
We flew with Germany's Condor Airlines from Phoenix.....
第一次搭乘德国康多尔航空公司的飞机。。。
July 4-5, 2024: We flew with Germany's Condor Airlines from Phoenix to Frankfurt for the first time. A few months ago, we saw that Condor started a direct route from Phoenix to Frankfurt, and the business class price was acceptable, so we quickly booked tickets to give it a try. The nine-and-a-half-hour direct flight was exceptionally smooth. In addition to being able to lie flat and sleep comfortably, the service, drinks, and food onboard were excellent, which made the long journey quite pleasant, a stark contrast to the budget Japanese airline Zipair that we flew with a few months ago. The plane arrived at Frankfurt on time, despite the fact that we had been tracking this flight for a couple of weeks, and it had consistently been delayed by one to two hours.
Given the uncertainty surrounding the arrival time, we opted not to book seats for our train ride to Strasbourg, France in advance. Passing through customs was quick and easy, leaving us with about an hour to spare before our train. We headed to the platform early, only to discover that our train was delayed by more than 40 minutes, which meant we would likely miss our connecting train. Luckily, the earlier train of the same route was also delayed by an hour, allowing us to catch it and make our connection with just a few minutes to spare.
Our hotel in Strasbourg was conveniently located just a few minutes walk from the train station. After checking in, we set out in search of some authentic Alsatian food. Our first choice of restaurants was packed both inside and out, as the France vs. Portugal match of the Europe Cup was being broadcast on big screens. We decided to try our second choice instead, which specialized in the local dish, Flammekueche (Flambees). These are flatbreads topped with a creamy sauce and various toppings. We enjoyed three half-flambees and a salad, and they were absolutely delicious.
After dinner, we wandered through the picturesque area of Petite France, known for its charming half-timbered houses, canals, and cobblestone streets. Even late into the night, the sports bars were still buzzing with people watching the game. We retired to our hotel room and caught a bit of the match on TV, but exhaustion soon took over. However, we were awakened by the sound of car horns, which likely meant that France had won the game.
康多尔航空, 法国斯特拉斯堡
七月四，五日：第一次搭乘德国康多尔航空公司的飞机，从凤凰城直飞法兰克福的九个半小时航程非常顺利。几个月前看到这家航空公司开启从凤凰城到法兰克福的直达业务，商务舱价格还能接受, 就赶紧下单想试试这家航空公司。除了一路趟平舒服地睡个好觉，还有飞机上的服务，酒水和食物都很出色，与前二个月刚乘坐过的廉价日本航空公司的Zipair有天囊之别。我们追踪这趟航班已有几个星期，它通常会延误一到两个小时。但令我们惊喜的是，今天的航班准时到达。
我们的目的地并不是法兰克福，而是法国小镇斯特拉斯堡。离家前我们买了欧洲火车通票，但许多火车必须订位。由于飞机到达时间不确定，我们之前没有预订去斯特拉斯堡的火车座位。过海关既简单又快速，我们有一个小时的空余时间来赶火车，正好把位子订上。没有直达火车，中间要换趟车。我们早早来到站台，但发现第一程的火车将延误四十多分钟，这意味着我们肯定要错过转车。很幸运的是，早一班与我们第一段相同行程的火车也延误了一个多小时，这样我们正好能搭上那班火车，并且让我们及时赶上了第二程火车顺利前往斯特拉斯堡。
我们预订的酒店离火车站只有几分钟的步行路程。办理入住手续后，我们外出寻找当地的阿尔萨斯（Alsatian)美食。先去了我们的首选餐厅，但由于正在播放欧洲杯法国对葡萄牙的足球比赛，饭店里里外外都挤满了人，根本没位子。于是我们来到第二选择，尝试了当地特色菜Flambees。Flambee是一种带有奶油酱和各种配料的薄饼，有点像在美国吃的那种薄的披萨。只是这里都不用蕃茄酱，且饼都是超薄。我们点了三种半份的Flambees和一份沙拉，非常美味。
晚餐后，我们在风景如画的小法国区散步，该地区以迷人的木筋屋、运河和鹅卵石街道闻名。入夜后，镇上的各个体育酒吧里依然挤满了观看比赛的人。有些酒吧在店的玻璃墙上放一个大电视，屏幕朝外，这样许多球迷站在店外也能一起看球赛。我们实在太累了，回到酒店房间看了一会儿比赛，但没能坚持看到结束。半夜被街上汽车喇叭声吵醒，猜测可能是法国队赢了球赛。