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Lyon, France 里昂

July 26, 2024

We spent the whole morning exploring the historic city of Lyon.......

昨晚上到里昂时已经很晚,。。。

July 26, 2024: We spent the whole morning exploring the historic city of Lyon. Our day began with an Uber ride to the old town, where we found a small café for breakfast. Next, we walked to the funicular station, which took us to Fourvière Hill to see the magnificent Basilica of Notre Dame. The platform behind the church offered breathtaking panoramic views of Lyon, but the basilica's interior truly captivated us. The lavish mosaics and stained glass decorations felt like incredible paintings from a distance.

After soaking in the views and the beauty of the basilica, we made our way down to Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon), a UNESCO World Heritage site. We wandered through the narrow streets and discovered the famous traboules, the secret passageways connecting different streets, which were used by silk weavers centuries ago. Unfortunately, we didn't have more time to savor Lyon's renowned cuisine, as we had a train to catch to Geneva, Switzerland.

But at least while at the train station, we had a wonderful lunch before leaving Lyon. Our train ride took three and a half hours, and upon arrival at the Geneva station, we met with our daughter, who had flown in from New York City a couple of days earlier. The next ten days were meant to be a family vacation, but our son had to cancel his trip due to a hip injury he sustained while running. The doctor advised against traveling, so it was just the three of us on this adventure.

Geneva is not our final destination for the day yet. We boarded the bus to Chamonix, France, the starting point of our Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) adventure. Since our bus was delayed, we enjoyed a simple meal at a cafe with a great view near the bus terminal while waiting.

Finally, we arrived in Chamonix, France. Our hotel room at Plan B in Chamonix offered a stunning view of the sunset, making for a perfect end to the day.

2024年7月26日:昨晚上到里昂(Lyon)时已经很晚,直接入住酒店休息了。今天一早就出门对这座历史悠久的城市来个短短的到此一游。

我们乘坐Uber到里昂的老城区(old town), 先找了家咖啡馆吃个简单的早餐。清晨街上几乎没人,非常安静。然后走到缆车站坐缆车上福尔维耶山去看圣母大教堂。教堂后面的观景平台提供了里昂的全景视野,但教堂内部的装饰才真正让我们震撼。那些从远处看到的墙上,顶上一幅幅令人惊叹的精美画作,走近时才发现居然全部是用华丽的马赛克拼图而成的。其实整个教堂内部包括地上用的都是马赛克,再加上那些彩色玻璃,显得非常漂亮。

我们没再坐缆车下山,而是从山上一路走下来回到了老里昂区。这里属于联合国教科文组织的世界遗产之一。有着狭窄的街道,还有著名的traboules,这些是用于连接街道之间的秘密通道,以前是丝绸织工使用的。如今有几个通道对外开放。为了寻找这几个小通道,我们在老城区的小巷里走了不少路。每找到一个,进去走一走都会兴奋一下。遗憾是今天只能有半天的时间游里昂,因为我们得赶火车去日内瓦(Geneva)。

在里昂火车站里找了家看着有点高级的餐厅吃午餐,没英文菜单,但一位热情的服务员还能说上几个单词。结果上来的菜每一道都很好吃,就是觉得都不像我们所点的。因为要赶火车,急急忙忙吃完。最后还是忍不住问了服务员,她还真把所有菜都搞错了。本来还遗憾没能在里昂享受美食,结果在火车站解决了。

三个半小时的火车旅程后,我们从法国里昂来到瑞士的日内瓦。在火车站见到了提前从纽约飞来的女儿。这本该是一次家庭度假,但由于儿子在跑步时髋部受伤,医生建议他不要旅行,所以他在最后时刻取消了行程。于是接下来的旅程就变成三人行了。

从日内瓦,我们乘坐巴士前往法国的霞慕尼(Chamonix), 开始我们的勃朗峰(Mont Blanc)之旅。

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Madrid,Spain 马德里

July 24, 2024

We took a five-hour train from Seville to Madrid......

早上在酒店吃完早餐后叫了Cabify送我们去火车站,。。。

July 24, 2024: We took a five-hour train from Seville to Madrid. The long-distance train ride provided much-needed rest and an opportunity to see the countryside. We prefer trains over planes when possible for the comfort and views they offer.

After checking into our hotel, we headed to the Royal Palace of Madrid. Although it is the official residence of the Spanish royal family, it is now used only for state ceremonies, unlike the more actively used palace in Seville. The palace is enormous, and we followed the flow of tourists through the grand rooms, taking in the opulent architecture and decor.

Next, we visited the “Gallery of Spanish Royal Collections,” which houses the royal family's art collection, now owned by the state. The collection is stunning, and we made our way through it quickly, gaining some insights into Spain's history along the way. Then we went to the Cathedral for a quick look.

Our first stop for food was the San Miguel Market, which is similar to the Time Out Market in Lisbon, offering drinks and tapas. Unfortunately, it was so hot inside the building that we only ordered three pieces of tapas before leaving. We found a restaurant near the Plaza Mayor and enjoyed a delicious paella.

Afterward, we strolled back to our hotel and called it a night. Along the way, we tried out Madrid’s churros, which are similar to the ones we have in the States, but we much preferred Seville’s churros—no comparison there.

July 25, 2024: This morning, we visited the Retiro Park before catching our train to Lyon, France. On the way to the park, we searched for breakfast places, but none opened before 9 AM. We ended up waiting in line for a small spot in a residential area to open, but the wait was worth it—the baked eggs we ordered were delicious.

Retiro Park is a vast and picturesque space in the city center, popular with both locals and tourists. We leisurely strolled around the central lake area and admired the gardens and monuments. However, we had to hurry to board our train to Lyon.

There is no direct train from Madrid to Lyon, so we took Spain’s high-speed train to a small city in France, then transferred to France’s high-speed train with a 15-minute layover. Knowing the unreliability of some European train systems and the potential for a French train worker strike, we were concerned about missing the connection, as it was the last train to Lyon for the day. Fortunately, the transfer was on the same platform and went smoothly. We arrived in Lyon at night and rested at the hotel.

This Madrid trip was a short but memorable journey, offering a glimpse into its royal history, art, and vibrant culinary scene. Despite the challenges with the heat and train connections, the experience was enriching and enjoyable.

2024年7月24日:早上在酒店吃完早餐后叫了Cabify送我们去火车站,乘坐从塞维利亚(Seville)到马德里(Madrid)的火车。五小时的长途火车旅行为我们提供了急需的休息机会,同时也让我们欣赏到了沿途的乡村风光。相比于飞机,我们更喜欢乘坐火车,因为它更舒适且风景宜人。

到达马德里后,我们还是叫Cabify送我们去酒店。其实酒店离火车站很近,网约车反而要绕道,好在车直接把我们送到酒店门口。办理了酒店入住手续,我们赶紧前往参观马德里王宫,也是提前网上买好的票。虽然这是西班牙皇室的官方住所,但现在仅用于国家仪式,不再作为日常居住场所,这一点与塞维利亚的王宫不同。王宫非常宏伟,我们随着游客的流动参观了各个房间,欣赏了那里的奢华建筑和装饰。

接下来,我们去了旁边的西班牙皇家收藏馆。皇家家族的艺术收藏品现在归国家所有。这个收藏非常多,我们快速浏览了一遍,同时了解了一些西班牙的历史。

然后,我们去了圣米格尔(San Miguel)市场,这地方类似于里斯本的Time Out室内市场,提供各种饮品和小吃。只是今天的马德里也是近四十度的高温。市场内人山人海且没有空调,热的让人受不了,我们走了一圈后只点了三份小吃就赶紧离开了。之后,我们在马约尔广场附近找到了一家餐厅,享用了一顿简单的海鲜饭。

2024年7月25日:今天我们离开马德里,前往法国里昂(Lyon)。走之前抓紧时间参观一下丽池公园。在去公园的路上,我们想找家早餐店,但大多数店铺早上9点之前都不开门。最终我们在住宅区的一家小店门口排队等候,虽然等了一段时间,但这里的焗蛋确实非常美味,值得一试。

漂亮的丽池公园位于市中心,深受当地人和游客的喜爱。我们绕着中央湖区走了一圈,看看周围的花园和纪念碑。只是我们的时间不多,不得不加快脚步,因为要去赶前往里昂的火车。

在火车站,我们尝试了马德里的吉拿棒(churros),虽然它们与我们在美国吃到的很相似,但我们更喜欢塞维利亚的吉拿棒,两者真的没有可比性。由于从马德里到里昂没有直达火车,我们先乘坐西班牙的高速列车到达法国的一个小城市,然后转乘法国的高速列车,中间只有15分钟的转车时间。考虑到欧洲火车系统有时不太可靠,且法国铁路工人可能会罢工,我们对能否赶上当天最后一班开往里昂的火车有些担心。幸运的是,转车是在同一站台进行的,过程非常顺利。我们于晚上顺利到达里昂,并入住酒店休息。

这次的马德里之旅虽短,却也让我们稍微领略了这座城市的悠久历史、丰富的艺术文化以及充满活力的美食场景。尽管在高温和火车换乘方面遇到了一些挑战,这段旅程还是很愉快有收获的。

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Seville,Spain 塞维利亚

July 23, 2024

Today was the hottest day of our trip so far in Seville, ......

今天的塞维利亚(Seville)是我们这次行程到目前为止最热的一天,。。。

July 23, 2024: Today was the hottest day of our trip so far in Seville, with temperatures reaching 104°F/40°C, rivaling those in Phoenix. Despite the heat, our day was packed with activities. Seville is a historic European city. During the Age of Exploration, it was the exclusive port for trade with the New World, which led to a period of economic prosperity. Many significant buildings were constructed during this time. However, as the river silted up, the center of trade moved elsewhere, causing the city’s economy to decline.

After enjoying a buffet breakfast at our hotel, we headed out to our first stop, the Plaza de España. This massive semi-circular building was constructed for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition and now houses government offices and exhibition halls. The plaza's walls are lined with niches, each representing a different province of Spain. We first visited the Seville Military History Museum and then explored every accessible part of the plaza. The architecture was breathtaking, and photos simply couldn't capture its grandeur.

Next, we visited the Seville Cathedral. We had pre-purchased tickets for a guided tour. This Roman Catholic cathedral, built on the site of a former Muslim mosque, is now the third-largest cathedral in the world and the largest Gothic cathedral. The interior might be the most spectacular we’ve seen so far. It contains 80 chapels, including the Royal Chapel. In addition to several Spanish royalty buried there, the most famous is Christopher Columbus. His remains have been relocated several times, finally resting here. Columbus's son is also buried in the cathedral. The bell tower, once the minaret of the old mosque, was heightened when the cathedral was built. Instead of stairs, the ascent to the top is a series of ramps that spiral upward in a counterclockwise direction, following Muslim tradition.

After the cathedral, we visited the nearby Royal Alcázar of Seville. We had also pre-purchased tickets for this visit. First, we toured the residential area on the upper floors, which is still an official residence of the King. Separate tickets are required for this part, and visits are strictly timed. Security was tighter here than anywhere else we’ve been; all belongings had to be stored in lockers, and nothing could be carried with us. Each group consisted of about ten people. After passing through security, we were escorted by two guards—one leading the way and one at the rear. We couldn’t linger in any room; after viewing one, the door was locked, and we moved to the next. No phones were allowed, so we couldn’t take any photos, and I barely remember what the rooms looked like. Afterward, we wandered through other parts of the palace and its extensive gardens, which seemed endless. Despite seeking out shade, the 40°C heat was relentless, so we took two breaks at the garden café, first for lunch and later for coffee.

We had specifically bought tickets for a Flamenco show that evening. After visiting the palace, we headed to the theater, only to find out we were at the wrong location. We called a Cabify (similar to Uber) in a rush and were lucky to get a good driver. Since some streets are pedestrian-only, he found a way to drop us as close as possible to the theater. Although we were a few minutes late, the show had just begun. Flamenco is a traditional Spanish performance that combines tap dance, singing, and instrumental music. The dancers were full of passion and energy.

After battling the heat all day, we finished by enjoying local tapas at a nearby restaurant.

2024年7月23日: 今天的塞维利亚(Seville)是我们这次行程到目前为止最热的一天,最高104F/40C度,绝对与凤凰城有得一拼。天虽热,但我们今天一整天的活动还是排得很满。

塞维利亚是一座历史悠久的欧洲重城。在大航海时代,它是新大陆贸易的独家港口,经济繁荣,不少重要建筑都始建于那时。后来由于河道淤积,贸易中心才迁移到它处,经济衰退。

早上在酒店用完自助早餐之后便出门前往第一站西班牙广场(Plaza de España)。这座巨大的半圆形建筑是为1929年在此举办的伊比利亚美洲博览会所建,如今里面主要是政府部门和展览馆。广场的墙壁上有许多壁龛,每个代表了西班牙的不同省份。我们首先参观了塞维利亚军事历史展览馆,然后上上下下把能走的地方走了一遍,非常漂亮让人惊叹的的建筑,手机根本拍不出那感觉。

接着我们来到塞维利亚大教堂(Seville Cathedral)。我们提前买好了带向导的票。这个建造在穆斯林清真寺旧址上的罗马大教堂历史非常悠久,如今是世界第三大的大教堂,同时也是最大的哥特式大教堂。大教堂内部结构可能是到目前为止我们所看到过的最壮观的一个。据介绍里面有80个礼拜堂(chapels),包括皇家礼拜堂(Royal chapel)。除了许多西班牙王室成员埋在那里,最著名的应该是哥伦布(Christopher Columbus)了。他的遗骨被搬迁过多次,最后来到这里。哥伦布的儿子也埋在这个大教堂。大教堂的钟楼也是非同寻常,曾经是旧清真寺的尖塔,之后改建教堂时被加高。上塔顶并不是走台阶,而是斜坡,按穆斯林传统逆时针方向一圈又一圈绕着走上去。

看完大教堂,来到旁边的塞维利亚王宫(Royal Alcázar of Seville)。我们也是来之前已买好票的。先参观王宫楼上的住宅区,这里现在还是国王的官方住宅,必须分开买票且按定点时间参观。这是到目前为止管得最严的一次,所有物品必须放储存柜,随身不能携带任何物品。每一组参观者大概也就十几个人。先过安检,然后二名保安一前一后带着我们走。每个房间都不能多停留,看完一个房间马上锁门去下一个。不能带手机,一张照片都没有,也不记得里面长什么样了。 接下来我们就在王宫的其它区域走走看看,王家花园大的走不完。40度高温下再怎么找阴凉处还是热,结果我们在花园里的cafe 休息了二次,先吃个午饭,之后又再回去喝个咖啡。

专门提前买了今天晚上弗拉明戈(Flamenco)表演的票,看完王宫后来到戏院,结果被告知走错地方了,再赶过去估计会迟到。急急忙忙叫了Cabify(类似Uber), 碰到了一位好司机。因为有些街道是步行街,司机想办法帮我们带到了离戏院最近的地方。虽然晚了几分钟,表演刚好开始。这是一种西班牙传统的集踢踏舞,歌唱和乐器一体的音乐表演,舞者非常的热情奔放。

战高温一整天,看完表演找了家Tapas店享受一下当地的小吃。

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Return to Spain 重回西班牙

July 22, 2024

Today, we say goodbye to Portugal and head back to Spain......

今天我们要和葡萄牙说再见,。。。

July 22, 2024: Today, we say goodbye to Portugal and head back to Spain. Yesterday, we took a day trip outside of town, but we didn’t have enough time to properly explore Faro. Since we had some time this morning, we decided to start with breakfast in town, followed by a leisurely stroll around the small town, visiting a few historical sites in the old town.

As there’s no direct train from Faro, Portugal to Spain, we had to take a bus to our next destination, the historic city of Seville, Spain. While waiting for the bus, we squeezed in a quick lunch. The service was exceptional—the server even had the kitchen prepare the fish exactly to our liking. The two-hour bus ride was smooth and comfortable.

After a previous experience of being scammed by a taxi driver, we opted not to take a taxi upon arriving in Seville. Instead, we used Cabify, a ride-sharing service similar to Uber. The service was reasonably priced, very courteous, and even provided complimentary bottled water, which made us feel well taken care of. Cabify dropped us off at our hotel in the city center, and after checking in, we went out to explore the nearby streets.

Before coming to Spain, we had been wanting to try churros but hadn’t had the chance yet. We found a churro shop online right next to our hotel, so we headed straight there. We had never tasted churros this good before. They reminded us of Chinese fried dough sticks but were even tastier. The freshly fried churros, dipped in hot chocolate sauce and paired with a cup of coffee, were absolutely delightful. They were nothing like the churros we’ve had in the United States, making us wonder if those were perhaps the Mexican version.

Just a short distance from our hotel is one of Seville’s major attractions—the Metropol Parasol (Setas de Seville). It’s a striking wooden structure with a viewing platform, touted as the largest wooden structure in the world. Unfortunately, our phones couldn’t capture the full view, no matter how hard we tried.

In the evening, we treated ourselves to a hearty dinner at a tapas bar. While the dishes were enjoyable, they didn’t quite impress us as much as we had anticipated. Perhaps we’ve indulged in tapas a bit too often lately, and it’s beginning to lose its novelty.

2024年7月22日: 今天我们要和葡萄牙说再见,重新回到西班牙。昨天去镇外一日游,法鲁(Faro)小镇还没时间好好看过。趁早上还有些时间,先在镇上吃个早餐,然后悠闲地在小镇上走了一圈,在老城区参观了几个历史遗迹。由于葡萄牙法鲁这里的火车不通西班牙,我们只能乘坐巴士前往我们的下一站,西班牙历史古城塞维利亚(Seville)。等巴士的时候赶紧再吃个午餐,服务员的态度真好,特别让厨房按我们的要求做了鱼。二个多小时的大巴旅程既平稳又舒适。

因为之前有过被出租车司机诈骗的经历,到达塞维利亚后,我们没有再选择出租车,而是选择使用Cabify。这是一个类似于Uber的共享乘车服务。这个服务价格合理,态度非常好,还免费提供瓶装水,这让我们感到很贴心。Cabify把我们送到在市中心的酒店,办完入住手续后,我们便去周边的街区探路。

来西班牙之前就说要吃churro,但一直没机会吃。在网上查到我们酒店旁边有一家专卖churro的店铺,我们就直接去到那里。从来没有吃到过这么好吃的churro, 味道就像中国的油条,但比油条更好吃。现炸的churro蘸着热巧克力酱吃,再来杯咖啡,太享受了。和美国吃过churro完全不同,在怀疑我们的churro是否是墨西哥的版本。

离酒店不远处就是塞维利亚的一大景点 - 都市阳伞(Setas de Seville)。这是一座木建筑,很别致,有观景台等,号称世界上最大的木建筑。手机怎么都拍不出全景。

晚上在一家塔帕斯(Tapas)酒吧享用了一顿丰盛的晚餐。虽然这些菜肴还不错,但觉得并不特别出色。也许是Tapas 吃多了,有点腻了。

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Benagil Cave and Marinha Beach 本尼格尔洞穴和马里尼亚海滩

July 21, 2024

Several weeks before we left for Europe,......

在出发前往欧洲的前几周,。。。

July 21, 2024: Several weeks before we left for Europe, we watched a travel segment on ABC's “Good Morning America” about Portugal’s Algarve region. It was so beautiful and captivating that we decided to change our plans and go to Faro instead of Porto. The Algarve is known for its breathtaking cliff-lined coastline on the southernmost tip of the country. Faro, the capital of the Algarve, is a historic town, but it’s about an hour’s drive from those natural wonders. To make the most of our visit, we joined a tour to explore the Benagil Cave and Marinha Beach.

Before the tour started, we visited the marketplace and had breakfast.

The tour started at 9 a.m., and since it was just the two of us, it turned into a private experience. Our tour guide, a British woman who has lived in Portugal for 20 years, first took us to a parking lot near Benagil Cave. We then walked to the cave, one of the most famous sea caves in the world. It has a skylight hole that beams sunlight to illuminate the sandy beach inside. From the opening, we watched tour boats and kayaks come and go, despite no-access restrictions from the government.

After visiting the cave, we continued our adventure along the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail, known for its stunning views of cliffs, caves, and beaches. The scenery reminded us of the Great Ocean Road in Australia, which our friends had taken us to see.

After we reached Marinha Beach, our guide returned to the parking lot while we stayed on the beach for more than an hour. Marinha Beach is surrounded by cliffs on three sides, making it a popular spot. Like the locals, we set up an umbrella and enjoyed the beach. We also took a dip in the chilly Atlantic Ocean, savoring its refreshing embrace. Our guide picked us up to see a small historic church before returning to the city.

For dinner, we indulged in Algarve’s famous cataplana, a dish cooked in a clam-shaped copper or aluminum pot. The seafood cataplana we ordered was so delicious that we finished every bite.

Today was a very good day. After spending so much time in big cities, we finally had the chance to enjoy some of nature’s wonders.

2024年7月21日: 在出发前往欧洲的前几周,我们观看了美国广播公司《早安美国》关于葡萄牙阿尔加维地区的旅行专题节目。该地区的自然风景美丽迷人,以至于我们决定改变计划,前往法鲁(Faro)而不是波尔图(Porto)。阿尔加维以其位于该国最南端的令人惊叹的悬崖海岸线而闻名。法鲁是阿尔加维的首府,是一座历史悠久的小城镇,但距离那些自然奇观大约有一个小时的车程。为了充分利用我们的时间,我们报名参加了当地的一日游,去本尼格尔洞穴和马里尼亚海滩。

旅行团在早上9点集合,由于其他游客临时取消,只有我们两个人参加,这次旅行变成了私人游。我们的导游是一位在葡萄牙生活了20年的英国女士,她首先在本尼格尔洞穴附近的一个停车场停车。然后带我们走到这个洞穴,这是世界上最著名的海洞之一。洞穴顶部有一个天窗,阳光透过它照射进来,照亮了里面的沙滩。通过洞口,我们看到旅游船和皮划艇进进出出,尽管政府对此有限制。

参观完洞穴后,我们继续沿着七悬谷步道走,这条步道以其悬崖、洞穴和海滩的壮丽景色而闻名。这里的风景让我们想起了澳大利亚的大洋路,我们的朋友曾带我们去那里游玩过。

到达马里尼亚海滩后,导游给了我们一个半小时的时间在海滩上。她一人走回停车场,然后开车到海滩接我们。马里尼亚海滩三面被悬崖环绕,是一个非常受欢迎的景点。像当地人一样,我们在海滩上支起了遮阳伞,享受着眼前的美景。我们还跳入水中,寒冷的大西洋水让人不能在水里多待,湿湿脚还行。继海滩之后导游又带我们去参观了一座小型历史悠久的教堂,然后返回法鲁小镇。

晚餐时,我们品尝了昨晚上房东推荐的阿尔加维著名的Cataplana,这是一种用拱形状的铜锅或铝锅烹制的菜肴。我们点的海鲜Cataplana非常美味,我们把锅里的食物全部吃完了。

前些天一直在大城市的转悠,终于有机会享受一些自然奇观,感觉真是美好的一天。

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Travel Day下一站

July 20, 2024

Before leaving Lisbon, we took a ferry across the Tagus River......

离开里斯本之前,今天我们赶早去了最后一个景点。

July 20, 2024: Before leaving Lisbon, we took a ferry across the Tagus River to Almada on the other side.

Then, we took a bus to the Sanctuary of Christ the King in Portugal and took the elevator up to the observation deck to enjoy a panoramic view of Lisbon.

Afterward, we took the bus back to the ferry terminal and had lunch at a seafood restaurant. We ordered shrimp and clams, which turned out to be one of the best meals we had on this trip.

In the afternoon, we had to say goodbye to Lisbon and boarded a train to Faro, the capital city of the Algarve region. Unfortunately, the train was delayed by 50 minutes.

We arrived in Faro around 9 PM. We rented a short-term apartment (similar to Airbnb). Our host had to wait for us until late at night. The unit was a 10-minute walk from the train station, but dragging our luggage through the cobblestone streets was not fun. Cobblestone streets are a significant part of Portugal's national character and are almost everywhere, including inside the train station and malls in some places. Despite the challenging walk, the rented unit was very nice and well-designed.

2024年7月20日: 离开里斯本之前,今天我们赶早去了最后一个景点。乘渡轮穿过塔霍河,前往对岸的阿尔马达。然后坐巴士前往葡萄牙的基督国王圣殿,并乘电梯上到观景台,欣赏里斯本的全景。再坐巴士返回渡轮码头,并在一家海鲜餐馆吃午饭。我们点了虾,生蚝,蛤蜊和烤鱼,这是我们这次旅行中最好吃的一顿饭之一。

下午,我们不得不告别里斯本,乘坐火车前往阿尔加维地区的首府法鲁(Faro)。再一次遇到火车误点,晚了50分钟。

我们大约在晚上9点多终于抵达法鲁。我们租了一间公寓(类似Airbnb),没有那种24小时前台服务。好心的房东就一直等着我们到夜晚,还仔仔细细给我们介绍了小镇及周边的景点,还有当地的特色美食。公寓离火车站有10分钟的步行路程,但拖着行李穿过鹅卵石街道并不轻松。鹅卵石街道是葡萄牙的国家特色,几乎无处不在,甚至在火车站和一些商场内都有。尽管走路有些不便,但租住的公寓非常漂亮且设计精致。

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Sintra, Portugal 辛特拉

July 19, 2024

We started early today to catch a train to Sintra.

今天我们早早出发。。。

July 19, 2024: We started early today to catch a train to Sintra. Due to incorrect information displayed on the screen, we ended up on the wrong train, which was heading in the general direction but stopping at a different station. Along with several fellow travelers, we realized our mistake in the middle of the ride and quickly hopped off to catch the right train. We finally arrived in Sintra before 9 am.

The shuttle to Pena Palace (bus 434) was conveniently located outside the train station. After a 30-minute ride, we reached the palace. Our ticket included transportation from the main entrance to the palace itself, saving us a 30-minute uphill walk.

Arriving at the magnificent Pena Palace a couple of hours before our time slot to visit the interior, we spent the morning exploring the outside. We were captivated by the breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding area and the colorful exterior and eclectic architectural styles of the buildings.

As the day progressed, more tourists arrived, and the place became quite crowded. Fortunately, it was time for us to enter the palace. Having visited many European palaces before, we found that this one, though beautiful, didn’t particularly stand out for us.

Next, we walked down to the medieval Moorish Castle, dating back to the 8th or 9th century. We climbed up the walls to the highest point, which offered an incredible panoramic view of Sintra.

We combined a bus and hike to reach Quinta da Regaleira, a Gothic-style mansion surrounded by lush gardens, enigmatic grottoes, and mystical symbols. Our main purpose was to see the Initiation Well, a spiral staircase descending into the earth, which was particularly fascinating.

After our visit, we took a train to the main train station to reserve seats for our next segment. We then headed to the shopping mall next to the station for a simple dinner. The food court offerings were more akin to the fast foods found in malls in the states, lacking various seafood and tapas bars. We guessed that salted fish, grilled shrimp, and cured hams might not be part of their daily diet. Instead, we had Brazilian pork and Pad Thai. On the terrace, people of different ages were dancing to DJ music, creating a lively yet peaceful scene. They certainly knew how to dance.

2024年7月19日: 今天我们早早出发,赶火车去里斯本外面的辛特拉(Sintra)。由于屏幕上显示的信息错误,我们上错了火车,虽然方向大致正确,但火车会停在不同的车站。和几位同车前往的旅客一起,我们在途中发现了这个错误,赶紧下车换乘了正确的火车。我们终于在早上9点前到达了辛特拉。

佩纳宫(National Palace of Pena)的接驳车(434路公交车)就在火车站外。经过30分钟的车程,我们到达了佩纳宫的公园门口。我们的佩纳宫门票包括从公园主入口到宫殿的交通服务,又省去了30分钟的上坡路程。

我们比预定参观宫殿内部的时间提前了二个小时到达,正好先在漂亮的佩纳宫外面游览。我们来的早,游客还不多,比较安静。佩纳宫色彩斑斓的外墙和精美的装饰绝对是个明信片的景点。除了王宫,附近还有城堡,庄园等历史古迹。

随着时间的推移,越来越多的游客到来,地方变得非常拥挤。但这时正好是我们进入宫殿的时间。可能是我们之前参观过太多欧洲的宫殿,一个比一个奢华,好像觉得这宫内并没有特别突出的地方。

接着,我们步行前往中世纪的摩尔人(穆斯林)城堡(Moorish Castle), 建于8、9世纪。我们爬上城墙的最高点,那里可以俯瞰辛特拉的全景。

我们乘公交车加徒步来到了雷加莱拉庄园,这是一座哥特风格的豪宅,周围环绕着茂密的花园、神秘的洞穴和神秘的符号。我们的主要目的是参观螺旋井,这是一座通往地下的螺旋楼梯,非常别致。

辛特拉一日游结束后,我们乘火车来达里斯本的火车总站,为下一段行程预定了座位。然后我们前往火车站旁边的购物中心,享用简单的晚餐。美食广场提供的食物更像是我们在商场里看到的快餐,没有各种海鲜和小吃吧,没有腌鱼、烤虾和风干火腿。我们吃了巴西烤肉和泰式炒河粉。

在购物中心露台上,不同年龄段的人随着DJ的音乐跟着台上领舞的一起跳舞,场面很热闹,他们确实很会跳舞。

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Disembark at Lisbon 里斯本下船

July 18, 2024

Our 7-day cruise ended in Lisbon today,......

天下没有不散的筵席,。。。

July 18, 2024: Our 7-day cruise ended in Lisbon today, but our journey continued. We disembarked at 9 am. The cobblestone street is not suitcase-friendly, so we decided to take a taxi to our hotel, even though the hotel is not far from the cruise terminal. We immediately ran into an unpleasant surprise: a taxi driver demanded 30 euros for a trip that was less than a 10-minute walk. It seems taxis in Spain and Portugal aren't well-regulated. Fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, shame on me. We decided to look for other options later on.

Our hotel is in the heart of a bustling restaurant and bar area. After a brief rest, we set out to explore the city. First, we joined a walking tour in Alfama, one of Lisbon's oldest and most picturesque neighborhoods. History is alive here. Initially built by Muslims, it later saw Jews opening stores and banks. Then, Christians conquered the area, leading to the conversion or execution of Muslims and Jews. But the story took an intriguing turn. On the morning of November 1, 1755, All Saints' Day, a massive earthquake struck Lisbon while Christians were at home celebrating, leading to fires that destroyed 85% of the buildings, including the royal palace. However, Alfama was largely spared since the converted Muslims and Jews did not observe the Christian holiday at home, preserving its medieval character. Today, it is one of Lisbon's top tourist attractions.

At the end of the tour, our guide took us to Pastelaria Santo António, where we tried our first custard tarts in Portugal. They were too sweet for our taste. Our guide also suggested a 5 euro sandwich café for lunch, which had a long queue. We didn’t want to wait; we had other plans: go to the Time Out Market. This market features high-quality food and drink vendors in a lively food hall setting. It was very crowded, unlike anything we had seen before. We ordered a few tapas and enjoyed the bustling atmosphere.

After lunch, we took a train to Belém to try the original and famous custard tarts (Pasteis de Nata) at Pasteis de Belem, based on a secret recipe created by nuns. The line wasn't very long that day, but the tarts, though famous, were still too sweet for us.

Having checked off that item on our to-do list, we visited the nearby Jeronimos Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We then walked to the Monument to Discoveries before heading back to the city.

Tonight, we had a fine dinner and Fado show at O Faria in Alfama. Dinner reservations are available from 7:00 to 8:30 pm and feature a fixed-price menu with a starter, main course, and dessert. The food was delicious and high quality. The Fado show started at 9:00 pm and had three sessions with 20-minute breaks for diners to enjoy their meals. The show ended at 11:00 pm. For us, it was a four-hour dinner. Exhausted, we returned to our hotel, but the streets seemed to just be coming alive.

2024年7月18日: 天下没有不散的筵席,我们为期7天的邮轮旅行今天结束了,但我们的旅程还在继续。我们在上午9点在葡萄牙首都里斯本(Lisbon)下船,却遇到了一个不愉快的小插曲:尽管从船码头到我们的酒店步行不到10分钟,因为拖着行李箱在碎石路上走太累,我们叫了出租车,结果出租车司机开口就要求30欧元。看来西班牙和葡萄牙的出租车监管都不好。连续二次被出租车司机骗,我们决定以后不再用出租车,而是寻找其它出行方式。

我们的酒店位于热闹的餐馆和酒吧区的中心。稍作休息后,我们便出门赶着去参加预定好的“免费”的阿尔法玛区(Alfama)徒步游。这里是里斯本最古老、最漂亮的街区之一。导游介绍说这里最初由穆斯林建造,后来犹太人迁入开设商店和银行。之后,基督徒征服了这个地区,穆斯林和犹太人要么被迫皈依,要么被处决。1775年11月1日是个圣徒日,基督徒在家生火做饭庆祝节日时,一场大地震袭来,因作饭的火而引发的火灾摧毁了85%的建筑物,包括皇宫。然而,阿尔法玛区大部分建筑幸存下来,因为皈依的穆斯林和犹太人没有在家庆祝基督教节日,其中世纪的建筑特色得以保存。今天,它是里斯本的顶级旅游景点之一。

昨天在船上的讲座有提到著名的葡萄牙蛋挞。今天导游介绍说葡萄牙蛋挞有二个版本。徒步游结束时,她带我们去了圣安东尼奥糕点店,这家是二个版本中的一个,我们在那里尝试了葡萄牙行的第一个蛋挞。中间用蛋黄酱制成,对我们来说实在太甜了,根本咽不下去。导游还建议我们去一家很热门的5欧元三明治餐厅吃午饭。看到那里的队伍很长我们就放弃了,而是来到Time Out市场,一家设有许多高质量饮食摊位,很有人气的室内市场。我们点了几份小吃,享受一下当地热闹氛围。炒蛤蜊非常新鲜美味,四季豆天妇罗也是绝佳。

午餐后,我们乘火车去了贝伦(Belem), 那里是最著名的葡萄牙蛋挞(奶油蛋挞)所在地。修道院边上的蛋挞店卖的是另一个版本的蛋挞,也是原创版本,由修女创造的秘方制作。那天店排队的人不算太多,我们高高兴兴又买了几个。但很失望,所有这些著名的蛋挞对我们来说都太甜了。

接着我们参观了旁边的杰罗尼莫斯修道院,这是联合国教科文组织的世界遗产。然后我们步行到发现者纪念碑,之后返回市区。

今晚,我们在阿尔法玛的O Faria餐厅享用了一顿美餐并观看了法朵表演。晚餐可以在晚上7:00到8:30之间预订,提供固定价格的菜单,包括前菜、主菜和甜点。食物美味且高质量。法朵表演从晚上9点开始,分三个阶段,每个阶段间有20分钟的休息时间,让顾客享用晚餐。演出在晚上11点结束。对我们来说,这是一个四小时的晚餐。疲惫不堪的我们回到酒店,但街上的人们似乎才刚刚开始夜生活。

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At Sea 海上行

July 17, 2024

Finally, we had a sea day to catch our breath......

今天终于迎来了一个海上休息日。。。

July 17, 2024: Finally, we had a sea day to catch our breath. Up until this point, every day of the cruise had brought us to a new port, and we had joined a shore excursion at each one. We consistently chose the most challenging options available, and the physical toll was starting to catch up with us as age began to take its toll. However, a sea day on a Crystal Cruise isn’t exactly a day of rest. The cruise always offers top-notch lectures and speeches, and this time was no exception.

In the morning, Dr. James Allison, a Nobel laureate in medicine, and his wife gave a talk on the cancer immunotherapy that Allison pioneered. In the afternoon, Nando Parrado, one of the sixteen survivors of a plane crash, recounted his harrowing experience. After spending two months stranded on a snow-covered mountain, he climbed out over ten days to seek help. His remarkable survival story has been adapted into several films, the most recent being "The Society of Snow," a Netflix show. The story was absolutely riveting. We also attended a presentation regarding the upcoming city and it’s culture. We can’t wait to try the famous Portugal custard tart.

Afternoon tea with live music was very nice. Both the pianist and violinist were fantastic. In the evening, we treated ourselves to Italian dishes at the special restaurant OSTERIA D’OVIDIO.

2024年7月17日:今天终于迎来了一个海上休息日。上船至今每一天我们都停靠在一个新港口,白天参加岸上游活动。我们总是选择所有活动中最具挑战性的项目,而船上每晩的音乐会又都安排在很晚。早出晚归,几天下来我们感到身体非常疲惫,很明显年龄的增长在影响着我们,体力一年不如一年。然而,Crystal邮轮上的海上行也不是一个放松的日子,海上行时总是会安排一些高质量的讲座,这次也不例外。

上午,诺贝尔医学奖得主詹姆斯·艾利森博士和他的妻子谈到了艾利森开创的癌症免疫疗法。下午,飞机失事幸存者之一南多·帕拉多(Nando Parrado)分享了他惊心动魄的经历,失事后,他和他幸存的鲁比球队队员们在雪山上度过了两个月后,他花了十天时间爬出山脉去寻求帮助。他们生存故事多次被改编成电影,最新的一部是Netflix的《雪之社》(The Society of Snow), 这个故事非常引人入胜。

接下来我们又听了一个关于葡萄牙里斯本(Lisbon)的讲座,除了历史和文化,对我们来说印象最深的就是著名的葡萄牙蛋挞。其实蛋挞吃过不少,自己也做过,但想到终于有机会可以品尝到最正宗的这款点心,还是很兴奋的。

下午讲座结束后有时间去享用下午茶,一边品尝喷香的绿茶和美味的点心,一边欣赏钢琴和小提琴演奏,弹琴是一位漂亮的韩国女孩,好像有不少优兔的粉丝。

晚上我们在船上的另一特色餐厅OSTERIA D’OVIDIO享用了美味的意大利菜肴。

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Casablanca, Morocco 卡萨布兰卡

July 16, 2024

Africa is the seventh continent we have set foot on, ......

非洲是我们踏足的第七个大陆,。。。

July 16, 2024: Africa is the seventh continent we have set foot on, although Morocco represents just a small part of this vast continent. Our ship docked at Casablanca, the largest city in Morocco, which serves as the economic and business center of the country. The city’s rich history has been shaped by influences from Berber, Phoenician, Roman, and Arab civilizations, as well as the French occupation.

We joined an 8-hour city tour focused on the diverse cultures of Casablanca. The tour included visits to a Jewish museum, a cathedral, and the Hassan II Mosque, the 3rd largest mosque in the world. However, the cathedral and the museum felt rather ordinary, reflecting the diverse cultures that Morocco has adopted over time.

Built on reclaimed land from the sea, the Hassan II Mosque is the most beautiful one we have ever visited, with stunning architecture, scale, and craftsmanship. Unlike many other mosques, it has no strict requirements for female visitors, which we appreciated.

Lunch was served in a beautiful Moroccan restaurant where we enjoyed six side dishes and chicken couscous, accompanied by live music. After lunch, our tour guide took us to an old gift shop, attempting to persuade us to buy Aloe oil. Not many of us were interested, preferring to explore elsewhere. However, the guide claimed the area was unsafe, perhaps as a strategy to keep us in the store. Despite this, we wandered around the city center near the public market, which was bustling with people and cars. Feeling quite safe, we briefly explored the market before returning to the bus.

Our final stop was at a rooftop bar overlooking the ocean and a public beach. The view was beautiful, but our time there was limited as we had to return to the ship. The ship left the port late at night. As we departed, we noticed the green laser beam from the tower of the Hassan II Mosque pointing east.

2024年7月16日:非洲是我们踏足的第七个大陆,虽然摩洛哥(Morocco)只是这个广阔大陆的一小部分,终于完成了走访全部七个大陆的心愿。我们的船昨晚离开直布罗陀后,前往对面的摩洛哥。今天一早停靠在卡萨布兰卡(Casablanca), 摩洛哥最大的城市,也是该国的经济和商业中心。这个城市的丰富历史受到了柏柏尔人、腓尼基人、罗马人和阿拉伯文明以及法国殖民时期的影响。

我们参加了船上组织的为时8小时的卡萨布兰卡深度游。行程安排包括参观犹太博物馆、大教堂和哈桑二世清真寺,后者是世界上第三大清真寺。哈桑二世清真寺建在填海造地的土地上,通体使用白色大理石砌成,宣礼塔高达200米,是我们见过的最美丽的清真寺,其建筑、规模和工艺令人惊叹。与许多其它清真寺不同,这里对女性游客没有严格要求,这一点我们非常欣赏。

午餐在一家很有当地风情的摩洛哥餐厅享用,有六道小配菜,再加鸡肉库斯库斯作为主菜。我们好像是第一次吃摩洛哥菜,今天的每一道都非常美味。另外午餐时还有现场音乐表演。之后导游带我们去了一个礼品店,试图说服我们购买摩洛哥坚果仁油(Argan oil)和芦荟精华液(Aloe)。我们中的大多数人对此并不感兴趣,而是更想去周围其它地方看看。然而导游声称该地区不安全,可能是为了让我们留在店里。尽管如此,我们俩还是走到礼品店附近的公共市场以及不远处的市中心,那里人车熙攘。我们感到很安全,简单游览了市场后便返回了大巴。

我们今天行程的最后一站是一个俯瞰大海和公共海滩的屋顶酒吧,景色很美。但由于时间关系,我们在上面喝了点酒水,稍作休息后便不得不返回船上。

船在深夜离港。离开时,我们注意到哈桑二世清真寺塔楼的绿色激光束指向东方。

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Gibraltar, Britain 直布罗陀

July 15, 2024

Even if you haven’t visited Gibraltar before,......

即使你从未去过直布罗陀,。。。

July 15, 2024: Even if you haven’t visited Gibraltar before, you probably recognize its famous rock formation from the iconic logo of Prudential Financial. Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory located at the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula. It is bordered to the north by Spain and overlooks the Strait of Gibraltar, which links the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. It is tiny but strategically important. Due to the Red Sea conflict, a significant number of commercial vessels are now passing through the area.

Our shore excursion took us via the cable car to the Upper Rock Nature Reserve, home to the famous Barbary macaques—the only wild monkey population in Europe. The reserve has a narrow road along the ridge. While the road is one-way for taxis, people and monkeys can freely wander.

It is the Monkey’s kingdom. Monkeys jumped on the car or stole someone’s bread or ice cream. We were both nervous and excited to see so many monkeys and their babies.

We also visited a huge cave. The 5-minute film shown on the rock wall was unique and beautiful. Then, we toured the Great Siege Tunnels, created during the 18th century inside the north face of the Rock. Gibraltar now has a total of 30 miles of tunnels, longer than its roads.

The visit to Gibraltar was the best so far, but we are very excited about tomorrow’s port of call.

2024年7月15日:即使你从未去过直布罗陀(Gibraltar),你可能也会从保德信金融(Prudential Financial)的标志中认出那著名的岩石形状。直布罗陀是一个位于伊比利亚半岛南端的英国海外领地。它北接西班牙,在连接大西洋和地中海的直布罗陀海峡的南面就是非洲, 海峡最窄处仅有八英里。尽管面积非常小,但它具有极其重要的战略意义。由于红海上冲突,如今有大量商船通过直布罗陀海峡。

今天我们还是参加船上组织的岸上游。先是通过缆车带我们来到了上岩自然保护区,这是著名的巴巴里猕猴的家园——欧洲唯一的野生猴群。保护区有一条沿山脊的狭窄道路。虽然这条路是单行道,仅供出租车通行,但行人和猴子可以自由穿行。看到这么多猴子和它们的小宝宝,我们既紧张又兴奋。我们的导游一再强调千万不要投喂猴子,且必须看好自己的包包。猴子们会跳上车子找东西,我们眼看着它们抢走行人手中的食物。

山里还有一个巨大的岩洞,里面定时放映5分钟关于岩洞的影片,直接用洞壁作屏幕,360度全景,非常独特。随后,我们游览了18世纪在岩石北面挖掘的“大围攻隧道”。直布罗陀现在有总长30英里的隧道,比其道路还长。

这次直布罗陀之行是迄今为止最棒的岸上游。但我们对明天的停靠港也非常期待。

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Cartagena, Spain 卡塔赫纳

July 14, 2024

Cartagena is a port city on the southern coast of Spain,......

卡塔赫纳是西班牙南部海岸的一座港口城市,。。。

July 14, 2024: Cartagena is a port city on the southern coast of Spain, boasting over 2,500 years of rich and diverse history. Our ship docked near the city center, and our tour began with a visit to the city hall and the plaza.

The city was ruled by Muslims at one time. In 1988, a Roman theatre was discovered buried during the Moorish Period under a ruined house during demolition. The tour we joined took us to see the Roman theatre and climb to the highest point in the city (350 ft up) for panoramic views. However, more than half of the group quit before reaching the summit. Then, we visited a bomb shelter cave used during the Spanish Civil War, during which much of the city was destroyed. Although Spain didn’t participate in World War I and II, the Civil War saw brothers killing each other, leading to a dictatorship under Francisco Franco.

New and Old Amphitheater

After three hours of walking under the scorching sun, we were exhausted and decided to go back to the ship for a break. We returned to the city for more exploration after a quick lunch. Away from the tourists, we wandered through the narrow streets to see a more authentic side of the town. We also visited more archaeological sites and museums.

Dinner was at Taste Café, and we watched the European Cup final in the Hollywood Theatre. Many Spanish fans were very happy.

2024年7月14日:卡塔赫纳(Cartagena)是西班牙南部海岸的一座港口城市,拥有超过2500年的丰富历史。它曾经被穆斯林统治过。1988年,在拆除破旧房屋时发现了一座埋在地下的罗马剧场。我们参加船上组织的岸上游带我们参观了这座罗马剧场,并爬上城市的最高点(350英尺)欣赏全景。然而,因为要走很多台阶,超过一半的团员在到达山顶之前就放弃了。接着我们参观了西班牙内战期间使用的防空洞,当时整个城市几乎被摧毁。虽然西班牙没有参与第一次和第二次世界大战,但在内战中兄弟相残,最终还导致了弗朗西斯科·佛朗哥的独裁统治直此1975年他的去死。

在烈日下上上下下走了三个多小时后,我们感到筋疲力尽,决定回船休息。简单吃过午饭后,我们再次下船自由行。远离游客,穿梭在小巷中看看这个城市更真实的一面。同时也参观了更多的考古遗址和博物馆。

晚餐是在船上的国际餐厅Taste享用的。之后我们俩一个听音乐会,一个观看了欧洲杯决赛。今晚是西班牙对英格兰。白天自由行时在一个广场上看到为了今晚的足球比赛而设置的户外大屏幕以及排得整整齐齐的椅子,估计晚上那里应该是人山人海了。我们船上西班牙球迷不少,除了影院,船上还在其它地方都安排了大屏幕实况转播,大家非常开心。

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Mahón, Spain 马翁

July 13, 2024

We docked at  Mahón, the capital of Menorca island in Spain......

今天我们来到西班牙梅诺卡岛的首府马翁。

July 13, 2024: We docked at  Mahón, the capital of Menorca island in Spain. Known for being the second deepest natural harbor in the world after Pearl Harbor, Mahón offers a blend of history and natural beauty.

We joined a ship-organized shore excursion called Authentic Menorca. The tour first took us to Monte Toro, the highest peak on the island, providing the best panoramic views. At the summit, we visited a sanctuary and a small church run by six to seven nuns, who we encountered after they completed their prayers.

Next, we visited a local shoe store of a famous Spanish brand, which unfortunately turned out to be a waste of time for us. However, the following stop at a multigenerational family dairy farm was both informative and interesting. We observed the cheese-making process and toured the dairy farm, followed by a delightful tasting of cheese and sausage.

Our final stop was the famous cave bar, Cova d'en Xoroi, located on the south coast of the island. This natural cave, situated in the cliffs, offers stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea. Each of us received a ticket to exchange for a drink. Cova d'en Xoroi is a popular spot for both daytime sightseeing and nighttime entertainment. Sadly, we didn’t have enough time to finish our drinks before we had to hop back on the bus to the terminal. We wished we had more time to relax and enjoy the view.

Dinner in the evening was at the Waterside restaurant, where we ordered a delicious T-bone steak that was too big to finish. The escargot dish was also top-notch.

2024年7月13日:今天我们来到西班牙梅诺卡岛(Menorca)的首府马翁(Mahón)。马翁被认为是世界上第二深的天然港口,仅次于美国的珍珠港。

我们参加了船上安排的“真实的梅诺卡”岸上游。首先大巴带着我们前往岛上的最高峰——蒙特托罗山(Mirador Cim del Toro),从那里可以欣赏到全岛美景。在山顶上有一个由六,七位年轻修女管理的一座小教堂。我们进去参观时碰巧遇见了刚刚完成祈祷的修女们。

接下来导游带我们去了一家西班牙当地生产的世界著名品牌的鞋店,可惜我们对品牌一无所知,对购物不感兴趣。倒是接下来的一站,一个几代相传的家庭奶牛场更有吸引力。我们看到了奶酪制作过程,参观了奶牛场,并品尝了美味的奶酪和香肠。

我们的最后一站是岛南海岸著名的洞穴酒吧Cova d'en Xoroi。这个天然洞穴位于悬崖上,提供了令人惊叹的地中海美景。我们车上每人都发一张可以兑换饮品的票。Cova d'en Xoroi是白天观光和夜间娱乐的热门地点。真希望我们能有多些时间在这里好好享受美景,只可惜我们连饮料都还没喝完就不得不跳上回码头的大巴。

晚上我们在船上的主餐厅用餐。法式焗蜗牛非常美味。点了一份T骨牛排,份量大到根本吃不完。另外可能之前在巴塞罗那海鲜饭吃多了,今晚的海鲜饭就觉得很一般了。

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Port Vendres and Collioure 旺德尔港和科利乌尔

July 12, 2024

Our first port of call was Port Vendres......

我们游轮的第一站是法国的旺德尔港。。。

July 12, 2024: Our first port of call was Port Vendres. We joined the ship-organized tour of "Hike through Wine Country." The hike was a 3-4 mile trek through vineyards, over hills, and down to a winemaker, Cellier Dominicain, in Collioure, France. The cellar, originally a church, had been converted into a winemaking facility. We tasted six different wines there, but couldn’t tell the difference.

After the wine tasting, we spent an hour in Collioure. The lively town was noticeably more crowded than Port Vendres, with throngs of tourists filling the streets, making it clear that Collioure is a well-loved vacation destination.

We then took a trolley back to the tender port. Instead of heading back to the ship directly, we wandered around the town and noticed locals enjoying bowls of steamed mussels at a restaurant. The temptation was too great to pass by. We sat down and ordered a big bowl of garlic mussels with French fries to share. The mussels were exceptional, unlike any we've had before.

Tonight, we dined at Umi Uma by Nobu restaurant, a reservation we secured before boarding the ship. Instead of opting for hot main courses, we indulged in sashimi and tempura. As always, Nobu did not disappoint, leaving us completely satisfied with our meal.


2024年7月12日:我们游轮的第一站是法国的旺德尔港(Port Vendres)。我们参加了游轮组织的“葡萄酒乡徒步游”。这个徒步游翻过山丘,穿过葡萄园,大概走了3~4英里的距离,然后来到法国科利乌尔(Collioure)的酿酒厂,Cellier Dominicain。这个酿酒厂以前是一座教堂,现在改成了酿酒厂。我们品尝了六种不同的葡萄酒,喝不出什么名堂来。

品酒结束后,我们有一个小时的时间在科利乌尔自由活动。这个小镇比旺德尔港要漂亮的多。沙滩上不少人,街上都是游客,显然是一个热门的度假胜地。

然后我们乘坐小电车返回旺德尔港。我们没有直接回到船上,而是在镇上闲逛。路过一家小餐厅,看到当地人都在吃青口,人人一大碗。这个诱惑太大了,我们无法抗拒。于是我们也坐下来,点了一大碗蒜味青口和薯条分享。青口个头是比较小的那种,非常美味。其实我们俩平时并不怎么喜欢吃青口,但今天这碗真是好吃,这一大碗没几分钟就解决掉了。

今天晚餐是在Nobu的Umi Uma餐厅享用。早在上船前就已预定好了。今晚没有叫热的主菜,而是以生鱼片和天妇罗为主。Nubu还是一如既往地让我们吃得满意而归。

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Picasso and Symphony 毕加索与水晶交响号邮轮

July 11, 2024

In the morning, we went to a small bakery ......

今天早上,我们去了酒店附近的一家小面包店。。。

July 11, 2024: In the morning, we went to a small bakery near the hotel to grab a couple of pastries for breakfast. Then we visited the Picasso Museum. As an adult, Picasso lived between Barcelona and Paris. He donated a lot of his early work to Barcelona, so the museum we visited exhibits mostly his early works, which allows us to see other sides of his artistic talents before the Cubism period.

Afterward, we picked up our luggage from the hotel and took a taxi to the cruise terminal to start our Mediterranean cruise with Crystal Symphony. Since taxis to the port are one-way business, the driver charged a fixed fee of 30 euro for the ride, probably twice what it should be.

The embarking process was smooth and fast. Ten minutes later, we sat down in the Marketplace to have our first meal. Crystal Symphony is a small ship with a maximum capacity of just over 600 passengers. Usually, the demographic on Crystal cruise ships leans toward an older population. On previous voyages, we always joked about being the youngest group. To our surprise, this time we felt like we belonged to the oldest group. There were a lot of young passengers, from babies to teenagers. We were told there are more than 70 kids on board.

We spent the rest of the afternoon checking out the ship. Although we have cruised on its sister ship Crystal Serenity several times, this is our first time onboard the Crystal Symphony.

Tonight’s dinner was at the Waterside. As always, each dish was done beautifully and tasted delicious. At 8 pm, as the song “What a Wonderful World” was playing, our ship left Barcelona.

2024年7月11日:今天早上,我们去了酒店附近的一家小面包店,买了几块小面包作为早餐。然后赶往我们在巴塞罗那的最后一个景点 - 毕加索博物馆。成年后,毕加索生活在巴塞罗那和巴黎之间。他向巴塞罗那捐赠了很多他早期的作品,所以我们参观的博物馆以他的早期作品为主,让我们看到了毕加索在立体派风格之前的艺术才华。

回酒店拿了行李便打车去了邮轮港口,又一次登上我们最爱的水晶邮轮公司(Crystal Cruises)的船,开始我们欧洲最南端的西班牙和葡萄牙邮轮之旅。由于去港口的出租车是单程业务,司机收了30欧元的固定费用,可能是正常价格的两倍多。到了船码头听到其他乘客抱怨,也有同样的经历。

登船过程顺利而快捷。十分钟后,我们已经在船上的Marketplace自助餐厅坐下,享用我们船上的第一餐。这次我们坐的是水晶邮轮公司的另一艘船 - 水晶交响号(Crystal Symphony), 她比我们之前坐过的水晶尚宁号稍小些,最大载客量刚刚超过600人。通常水晶邮轮上的乘客年龄偏大。在之前的航行中,我们总是开玩笑说自己是船上最年轻的一群。令我们惊讶的是,这次我们感觉自己是最老的一群。这次船上有很多年轻乘客,从婴儿到青少年,且有不少三代同游的。据说船上有近70个孩子,给船上带来巨大的活力。

今天晚餐我们选在主餐厅,每一道菜都做的精致,入味。晚上八点左右我们的船在“What a wonderful world”的歌声中离开巴塞罗那。音乐演出照旧安排在9:45,对我们来说虽有点晚,但还是不能错过的。

一直盼着能来西班牙和葡萄牙,这次终于成行,很兴奋很期待。

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Hot day in Barcelona 炎热的巴塞罗那

July 10, 2024

Today was extremely hot,......

今天非常炎热。。。

July 10, 2024: Today was extremely hot, making it unbearable to walk under the direct scorching sun. Fortunately, the tall buildings in the city provided ample shade, making our stroll through the streets more manageable.

In the morning, we took a taxi to Parc Güell, another of Gaudí’s accomplishments. We could definitely see his architectural signature. However, compared to his masterpiece, the Sagrada Família, the park seemed less impressive. Climbing up and down the hill was exhausting in the heat.

After a coffee break, we visited Casa Vicens, the first house designed and built by Antoni Gaudí. The vibrant colors of the house stood out in the neighborhood, but we didn’t go inside as we had a lunch reservation coming up soon.

Our delicious lunch was at Paco Meralgo. The grilled octopus with cured pork and grilled razor clams were the highlights of the meal.

Then we walked to see another of his masterpieces, Casa Milà (La Pedrera), a unique residential building with an undulating stone facade and wavy walls. After taking a few quick pictures, we hopped on the subway then funicular to the cable station. The cable car took us to Montjuïc Castle. At the castle, we learned more about Spanish history and the complex relationships between Spain and Catalonia.

Dinner was at Arume, located in the El Raval area, which is often considered less safe. It was recommended not to walk in the area alone. The dinner was excellent, especially the duck paella.

After dinner, we went to the rooftop café at our hotel, enjoying a drink and a panoramic view of the city. Tomorrow, we would say goodbye to Barcelona.

炎热的巴塞罗那

2024年7月10日:今天非常炎热,走在烈日下让人有些难以忍受。所幸城市中的高楼挡去不少太阳,沿着大楼阴凉处行走感觉稍微凉快一些。

早上我们打车去了帕克·古埃尔(Parc Güell),这是安东尼·高迪的又一杰作。我们确实能看到他独特的建筑风格。但因为我们昨天刚看了他最著名的杰作 - 圣家堂,与之相比,今天这个公园就显得不怎么样了。此外在炎热的天气里,上上下下的山坡让人疲惫不堪。

路途中小息喝完咖啡后,我们去了由安东尼·高迪设计和建造的第一座房子——卡萨·维森斯。这座房子的鲜艳色彩在街区中非常显眼,但由于我们有午餐预订,没能进去参观。

我们的午餐在Paco Meralgo餐厅享用。烤章鱼配腌肉和烤剃刀蛤蜊是这顿美餐的亮点。

酒足饭饱后我们继续前往高迪的另一杰作——米拉之家(La Pedrera),这是一栋具有起伏石质外墙的独特住宅建筑。

看够了高迪,我们乘坐地铁和缆车来到了蒙特惠奇城堡(Montjuïc Castle)。在城堡里面的小展览厅中,我们进一步了解了西班牙的历史以及西班牙和加泰罗尼亚(Catalonia)之间复杂的关系。

晚餐是在阿鲁梅餐厅(Arume)享用的,这家评价不错的餐厅位于通常被认为不太安全的拉瓦尔区,昨天导游建议不要单独在该区域行走。从外面看一点不起眼的小饭店生意兴隆,晚餐非常美味,尤其是鸭肉海鲜饭。

回酒店后又上了酒店的屋顶酒吧,继续在那里享用甜品和美酒,最后再欣赏一下城市的全景。明天我们将告别巴塞罗那。

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Barcelona, Spain 巴塞罗那

July 9, 2024

We had a full schedule today in Barcelona......

今天我们在巴塞罗那安排了满满一整天的行程。。。

July 9, 2024: We had a full schedule today in Barcelona. After enjoying the breakfast buffet at our hotel, we headed out to join the free Gothic Quarter walking tour. Although termed "free," these tours typically end with participants paying what they feel the tour was worth. We've taken several of these tours in various cities over the years and have found them to be quite informative. We usually do them on the first day at a new destination so we can explore the area in more detail later.

Our tour guide was young and very knowledgeable about Barcelona's old neighborhood. He not only shared fascinating stories about the area but also pointed out the “fake” old buildings, which had been renovated to look clean and attractive to tourists. We’ve noticed similar trends in many places around the world.

After the walking tour, we went to a nearby Tapas Bar for some quick bites and then took a taxi to the Sagrada Familia, the most famous church under construction for the last 142 years. Both the interior and exterior of the church were stunning and awe-inspiring. The vibrant light streaming through the stained glass windows inside the basilica was unlike anything we had ever experienced before. The columns branching out like trees were also very intriguing.

We then took a taxi back to our hotel for a short nap before heading out again for a Spanish cooking class. There were 19 participants in the class. First, we went with the chef to La Boqueria Market to get some fresh squids, shrimp, and mussels before walking to the kitchen. We started by sitting down and drinking Sangria, a famous cocktail in Barcelona. After a glass of the drink, we gathered around the kitchen table to prepare seafood paella. The chef showed us how to make the dish, and we helped with the cooking. Meanwhile, we also learned how to make Sangria. It’s a mix of two bottles of red wine, four shots of whiskey, four shots of gin, vodka, and some juices. We realized why it tasted so strong!

While our fellow travelers managed to finish two jars of the drink and became quite high and talkative, we focused on the cooking. The seafood paella turned out to be very good, and we’re eager to try making it at home using the techniques we learned. After the class, everyone was offered a free shot at another bar, but we decided to head back to the hotel directly. It was definitely the best experience we’ve had in Barcelona so far.

巴塞罗那

2024年7月9日:今天我们在巴塞罗那安排了满满一整天的行程。享用完酒店的自助早餐后,我们出发去参加免费的哥特区(Gothic Quarter)步行游。虽然称为“免费”,这些游览通常在结束时由参与者根据感受支付费用。多年来,我们在不同城市参加了几次这样的步行游,发现它们非常有益。我们通常在到达新目的地的第一天参加这种步行游,让我们对城市就个初步了解,以便之后能更详细地探索该地区。

我们的导游很年轻,对巴塞罗那的旧城区非常了解。他不仅分享了关于该地区的有趣故事,还指出了一些经过翻新以吸引游客的“假”旧建筑。我们在世界各地都看到了类似的趋势。

游览结束后,我们顺路进了一家附近的小吃(Tapas)酒吧,里面挤满了人。我们点了几份小吃,  有熏沙丁鱼、火腿,橄榄等,再配上冰啤,每一样都非常美味。因为要赶场,我们站在吧台前,匆忙地吃完了小吃和啤酒,然后赶往下一个目的地。

打车来到了圣家堂(Sagrada Familia),这座著名的教堂已经建造了142年,还没完工。教堂的内外都令人惊叹且敬畏。像树枝一样分叉的柱子不同寻常,教堂内部的彩色玻璃窗透出的光线极其鲜艳,这是我们从未经历过的景象。

回酒店小憩了一会儿,我们再次出门去参加西班牙烹饪课,我们这组有19名学员来自世界各国。厨师首先带着我们一起去了波盖利亚市场(Mercat de la Boqueria)购买新鲜的红虾,墨鱼,鱿鱼和青口,然后步行回到厨房。我们先坐下来喝了巴塞罗那著名的鸡尾酒——桑格利亚汽酒,然后大家围着厨房大桌子准备海鲜烩饭。厨师向我们展示了如何制作这道菜,从准备各种海鲜到烹饪,我们全程参与。同时我们还学会了如何制作桑格利亚汽酒。一大罐酒是由两瓶红酒、四份威士忌、四份杜松子酒、伏特加和一些果汁混合而成。我们终于明白为什么它的酒味如此特别。

大家喝光了两大罐酒,变得非常兴奋和健谈,不知不觉饭已熟。海鲜烩饭非常美味,整整一大锅也是一扫而光。我们以前自己也做过海鲜烩饭,但完全不一样。这次等回家后一定会尝试用新学到的技巧来做正宗的海鲜烩饭。课后大家都被邀请去另一家酒吧继续喝免费的酒同时看欧洲杯足球赛,西班牙对法国。但实在是太晚太累了,我们直接回了酒店。这无疑是我们在巴塞罗那最难忘的一次体验。

西班牙赢了,大街上人们兴高采烈,高声唱歌为此庆祝。

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Nîmes and Barcelona 尼姆和巴塞罗那

July 8, 2024

Since we could only book seats on the morning train to Barcelona,......

由于我们只能订到早上去巴塞罗那(Barcelona)的火车座位。。。

July 8, 2024: Since we could only book seats on the morning train to Barcelona, we left Avignon early and made our way to Nîmes first. Upon arrival at the Nîmes station, we dropped off our luggage at a nearby hotel for 5 euro per bag.

In Nîmes, besides transferring the train to Barcelona, we want to visit the amphitheater of Nîmes, also known as the Arènes de Nîmes, one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world. Built around 70 AD, it shares a similar design with the Colosseum in Rome, though on a smaller scale. The amphitheater is still in use today for concerts and other events and is open for tours. As we arrived before it opened, we took the opportunity to visit another historic landmark, the Maison Carrée, a beautifully preserved Roman temple. Nîmes, often referred to as the "French Rome," is rich with historic Roman architecture, and we found ourselves wishing we had more time to explore the city.

After a quick espresso, we returned to the amphitheater for a brief 20-minute tour. We climbed up and down the stadium steps, enjoying the unique experience of having the place almost entirely to ourselves.

Next, we embarked on a four-hour train ride to Barcelona. The journey was smooth, and we both took advantage of the time to rest. Although we arrived at the station on time, it took an hour and a half to book seats for our future rides—a frustrating experience that highlighted the need for a better ticketing system.

Once we settled into our hotel, we set out to explore the city. Our hotel was located right next to one of the busiest streets in Barcelona, and the sheer number of people on the street was overwhelming. We had heard stories of protests against tourists, but we were unprepared for the crowds that greeted us.

We sampled local tapas before heading to Barcelona beach, where we relaxed for a while. Later, we tried Thai tapas, which turned out to be delicious.

With the sun setting around 9:30 pm, we found ourselves ready for bed after dinner, wrapping up our first evening in Barcelona.

尼姆和巴塞罗那

2024年7月8日: 由于我们只能订到早上去巴塞罗那(Barcelona)的火车座位,我们改变了计划,一大早就离开了阿维尼翁(Avignon),前往尼姆(Nimes),另一个法国南方小镇。到达尼姆车站后,我们将行李寄存在车站旁的一家酒店,每件行李5欧元。

在尼姆除了转车去巴塞罗那,还想去参观尼姆斗兽场(Arènes de Nîmes),世界上保存最完好的罗马竞技场之一。它建于公元70年左右,结构设计与罗马的科洛西姆相似,但规模较小。这个斗兽场如今用于音乐会和其它活动,同时也对游客开放。由于我们到达时斗兽场尚未开放,我们先去看了另一处历史遗迹——梅森卡雷(Maison Carrée),一座罗马神庙。尼姆常被称为“法国的罗马”,因为这里有许多历史悠久的罗马建筑。真希望我们有更多的时间探索这座城市, 只能说是计划跟不上变化。

在斗兽场边上找了家咖啡馆边喝咖啡边等开门,然后第一个买票进斗兽场,来了个20分钟的快速参观。我们上串下跳攀登了整个斗兽场,没其他游客,我们二个人几乎拥有了整个场地,非常不错。

接下来是四小时的火车旅程前往巴塞罗那。旅途平稳,我们都得到了需要的休息。火车准时到达了巴塞罗那火车站。因为后面行程中有二程火车手机上无法预订座位,我们又在火车站排队花了一个半小时的时间将这二程座位预订好。这个票务系统的管理确实需要改进。

我们的酒店就在巴塞罗那最繁忙的La Rambla大街上。入住酒店后,我们开始探索这座向往已久的城市。但街上的人之多,我们的头都开始晕了,有些不知所措。前几天我们有听说过这里抗议游客的故事,虽没遇到抗议者,但没想到街上会有这么多游客。

我们从酒店往巴塞罗那海滩方向走,沿途先找了家店品尝了当地的塔帕斯(Tapas)。来到海边坐海滩上休息了一会儿后,我们又去尝试了泰国塔帕斯,非常美味。

这里的日落大约在晚上9:30,晚餐都吃得很晚。基本上晚餐后就已经是我们正常的就寝时间了。 但到了这里也就入乡随俗跟着晚吃晚睡了。

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Avignon 阿维尼翁

July 7, 2024

Unlike yesterday’s gloom, today’s weather was......

与昨天的天气完全不同,今天阳光明媚。。。

July 7, 2024: Unlike yesterday’s gloom, today’s weather was sunny with a gentle breeze—perfect for an outdoor adventure. We set out before seven o’clock to explore the local market, known for its fresh produce and diverse food booths. He opted for a hearty pork chop with French fries, while she chose the pain aux raisins. Both were delicious and reasonably priced.

After breakfast, we took a leisurely stroll along Rue des Teinturiers. This charming cobblestone street, running alongside a canal that once powered water wheels for textile drying, was peaceful in the early morning with only a few tourists around. Due to last night's heavy rain, which caused a huge mess, the cleaning crew were busy on the streets. The old buildings, shaded by big trees, added to the tranquil atmosphere.

At nine o’clock, we joined a small group of travelers for a tour of three picturesque towns outside Avignon. Our first stop was the bustling Sunday market in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the largest in the region and the biggest we've ever seen. With only an hour to explore, we could barely scratch the surface, but we did manage to pick up a hefty chunk of 12- and 40-month-aged cheese as travel snacks. It was a delightful experience, witnessing the vibrant market that caters primarily to locals.

Next, we visited Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, a 12th-century Cistercian abbey surrounded by fields of lavender in full bloom. The sight of the vibrant purple flowers against the backdrop of the historic abbey was breathtaking, and we took our time wandering through the fields, savoring the beauty of the moment.

Our journey continued to the hilltop village of Gordes, one of the most beautiful in the Luberon region. Known for its stunning architecture and rich history, Gordes offered breathtaking views and a sense of timeless charm. However, our time there felt all too brief, and we wished for more time to immerse ourselves in its unique culture.

Our final stop was the ochre cliffs of Roussillon, famous for their striking red, orange, and yellow hues. Once a center for natural pigment production, the cliffs are now a popular tourist attraction. We enjoyed lunch nearby, with the beautiful scenery and pleasant weather making it a perfect stop. The tour was fantastic, giving us a deeper appreciation of the Provençal countryside.

Back in Avignon, we hurried to join a guided tour of the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes). We were surprised to learn that this massive Gothic fortress was the seat of the Catholic popes during the 14th century when the papacy was based in Avignon rather than Rome. Despite its emptiness today, the palace’s sheer scale and historical significance made the visit worthwhile. The time-slotted ticket system, used to manage the crowds, added a modern touch to the ancient setting.

Feeling fatigued, we took a break at a café on the plaza of the Pope’s palace. As we sipped espresso and sparkling water, we watched an art performance in the square, soaking in the lively atmosphere. After our brief rest, we walked to the Pont Saint-Bénézet (Pont d’Avignon), which now stands only partially intact. Both the bridge and the palace are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Avignon is renowned for its annual arts festival, one of the world’s most important contemporary performing arts events, featuring theater, dance, music, and more. Although we didn’t catch any formal shows due to the limited number of English-speaking performances, we were enveloped by the festival’s vibrant energy. Posters for performances were everywhere, and street performers worked the crowds, promoting their shows. The city was alive, with restaurants and bars buzzing well past midnight. The combination of good food, drink, and art created an unforgettable atmosphere. Of course, we ended our day with a simple yet satisfying French meal at Restaurant EAT.

阿维尼翁

2024年7月7日:与昨天的天气完全不同,今天阳光明媚,微风轻拂,正是户外活动的完美天气。我们在七点前出发去了镇里的小集巿场。那里出售农产品,还有几个食品摊位。除了一个羊角面包,一个葡萄圈,我们还点了一份带炸薯条的大猪排。俩人吃得津津有味,再配上咖啡,太享受了。所有东西还是一贯的美味可口,价格合理。感觉现在全世界就美国物价最贵了。

早餐后,我们悠闲地漫步在Rue des Teinturiers,一条由鹅卵石铺成的街道。它沿着一条水渠,而这条水渠驱动着三个历史上用于纺织染色工艺的水轮。街道两旁是许多老建筑和大树,清晨游客稀少,显得非常安静。时不时能看到清洁工在将被昨天大雨搞得面目全非的街道冲洗的干干净净。

九点钟,我们与另外六位游客参加了当地一个游览阿维尼翁(Avignon)外面三个小镇的半日游。导游首先带我们去了L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue的一个大型周日市场。这是该地区最大的市场,也是我们见过的最大的户外综合市场。导游给了我们一个小时的时间来自由行。这点时间根本不够,进入巿场没多久就开始就点迷路了,一小时内逛完所有摊位是不可能的。我们买了一大块12个月和一小块40个月的奶酪作为旅行小吃,再加上一小袋薰衣草就匆匆赶回小巴。

接着我们往山顶历史名村Gordes方向去。距离Gordes不远的Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque有着名信片般的美景。这座12世纪的西多会修道院被盛开的薰衣草田围绕着,风景如画。Gordes是卢贝隆(Luberon)地区最美丽的村庄之一。它以其令人惊叹的建筑、历史意义和壮丽的景观而闻名。可惜我们没有足够时间来充分欣赏这里的氛围和文化。

我们的最后一站是Roussillon的赭石悬崖,以其红色、橙色和黄色的土壤而闻名。天然颜料的生产在合成颜料出现之前非常繁荣。现在这里只是一个旅游景点。借着今天的好天气,我们在悬崖附近的饭店吃个午餐,享受美景和美食,最后再来份薰衣草冰淇淋。这个半日游很棒,通过走出城市,我们对乡村有了更多的了解。

回到城市后,我们急忙赶去下一个行程,参观教皇宫(Palais des Papes)。之前我们并不知道阿维尼翁这个巨大的哥特式堡垒曾是天主教教皇的驻地,直到14世纪教廷才搬到罗马。它是欧洲最大和最重要的中世纪哥特式建筑之一。由于访问该地区的游客众多,许多景点,包括这个教皇宫都采用了时段票系统来控制人流。游客只能在票上的时间段进入场馆。尽管现在教皇宫对公众开放,但它基本上是一座没有多少家具或其它物品的空老建筑,但仍值得一看。

马不停蹄地忙了大半天,我们感到很累,于是在教皇宫广场的咖啡馆坐了下来。一边喝着咖啡和苏打水,一边观看广场上的艺术表演。稍作休息后,我们参观了现在仅部分保存完好的圣贝内泽桥(Pont Saint-Bénézet)。桥和教皇宫都是联合国教科文组织的世界遗产。

阿维尼翁因其年度艺术节而闻名,艺术节包括戏剧、舞蹈、音乐和其它表演。它是世界上最重要的当代表演艺术活动之一。然而,由于只有有限数量的英语表演,我们没有机会看到任何正式的演出。尽管如此,我们还是感受到了艺术节的热烈氛围。介绍演出的海报满大街都是,街头免费表演随处可见。表演者经常在街上举着他们的海报,吸引观众来看他们的演出。今天是个好天气,餐馆和酒吧都在户外摆满桌椅,午夜后仍然熙熙攘攘。吃饭、喝酒、欣赏艺术表演——多么美好的生活!当然我们也继续享用我们的法国餐。

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Strasbourg and train in Europe 斯特拉斯堡和欧洲火车旅行

July 6, 2024

We started our day early by heading straight......

一早醒来,第一件事就是去酒店对面的火车站,。。。

July 6, 2024: We started our day early by heading straight to the train station across from the hotel to change our reserved seats for an earlier train. Afterward, we stopped by a nearby bakery, where we ordered the chocolate croissant, the raisin swirl, a cup of latte, and an Americano. We sat by the entrance, enjoying our breakfast and people-watching. The pastries were fresh and delicious, and the prices were surprisingly reasonable—much cheaper than in the U.S. It was a pleasant surprise to be able to find breakfast so easily at such an early hour, especially considering how difficult it was to find any breakfast during our last trip to Europe two years ago.

The Notre-Dame Cathedral here, a historic Catholic church, was built in the 14th century and remained the tallest church in Europe until the 19th century. After an early visit to the cathedral hall, we climbed the 330 steps to the church’s viewing platform, though the narrow, winding stairs were quite challenging, especially for older visitors. This observation deck used to be a gathering place for residents during holidays and weekends. From up there, we enjoyed a stunning 360-degree view of the city. After visiting the cathedral, we continued exploring the town center. Last night, we only had time for a quick walk after arriving, but today, with a closer look, we found the town even more charming.

As lunchtime approached, it began to rain, so we headed to a highly-rated small restaurant we had found through a Google search. The waitress was incredibly kind—seeing us outside with no place to escape the rain, she invited us in early to sit down, even though the restaurant wasn’t officially open yet. We decided to try a local specialty—plain crêpes, which were delicious and not greasy. We had initially planned to try another specialty dish—sausages—but they weren’t available for lunch, so we opted for a beef salad instead. The salad was a generous bowl of fresh vegetables topped with plenty of beef. The vegetables were crisp and refreshing, but there was so much beef that we couldn’t finish it.

After lunch, we returned to the train station to book seats for our next journey from France to Spain in advance, then went back to the hotel to collect our luggage and head to our next destination. During our 2022 train tour in Europe, we were impressed by the efficiency and convenience of the European railway system, especially in Switzerland. With our Eurail pass, we boarded and disembarked without issues, and delays were rare. However, our German friend had warned us not to expect the same efficiency level in other parts of Europe, particularly in Germany. This time, our first 30-minute leg train in Germany was delayed by over 40 minutes, almost causing us to miss our connecting train to Strasbourg. Today, in France, our train to Avignon TGV was delayed by more than 10 minutes, causing us to miss the 5-minute connecting train to the Avignon city center, forcing us to wait an hour for the next one.

One of the most frustrating aspects of train travel this time has been booking seats. Many trains require reservations, and the fees aren’t cheap—around $20-25 per person per trip. Additionally, finding and booking seats has proven to be difficult. France’s high-speed trains impose many restrictions on seats for Eurail pass holders, sometimes offering no seats at all, which has forced us to adjust our itinerary based on train pass availability. In Spain, seats on high-speed trains can’t be booked online. During our last trip in Switzerland and most other parts of Europe, we didn’t need to reserve seats, and even when we did, online reservations were simple.

We arrived in Avignon in the evening. Avignon is a historic city in southern France, and we chose to visit because it hosts France’s oldest summer arts festival. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side. As we made our way to the city center for dinner after checking into our hotel, the rain began to pour even harder. What should have been a lively weekend evening was dampened by the downpour. The only people on the streets were like us, looking for a place to eat. By the time we finally sat down to enjoy a delicious French dinner, we were completely drenched. Despite the simple meal, it tasted fantastic. We hadn’t experienced much French cuisine before; we always associated it with expensive, elaborate dishes. But we were pleasantly surprised by how simple, flavorful, and affordable everyday French food can be.

斯特拉斯堡和欧洲火车旅行

7月六日:一早醒来,第一件事就是去酒店对面的火车站,把今天下午预定的座位票换成早一班的。然后在酒店附近的面包房里,点了巧克力羊角面包、葡萄圈、拿铁和美式咖啡,坐在店门口边吃边喝边看过往行人。面包又新鲜又好吃,价格也很合理,比美国便宜。大清早这么容易就有早餐吃,这可是有点出乎预料。记得前二年来欧洲玩,因为起得早,常常为买不到早餐而发愁。

这里的天主教圣母教堂建于十四世纪,一直到十九世纪都是欧洲最高的教堂。赶早参观完教堂大厅后,又爬了三百三十三级台阶登上教堂的观望台,不过那盘旋式的狭小台阶对上了年纪的人来说不好走。这观望台是以前居民在节假日和周末聚会的场所。在那上面,360度的城市美景尽收眼底。看过教堂,又继续在镇中心走走。昨晚刚到匆匆走了一下,今天再多看一眼,越看越觉得这个小镇漂亮。

还没到午饭时间就开始下雨了,我们来到提前找好的一家评论很不错的小饭店。服务员态度真不错,虽还没到营业时间,看我们在店外没地方躲雨,就提早让我们先进饭店坐下。今天又要了一份当地特色原味薄饼,味道鲜美而不腻。原计划来这家饭店是要吃另一特色菜 - 香肠,结果午餐没有,就点了牛肉色拉。超大一盆新鲜蔬菜,加上许多牛肉。蔬菜新鲜爽口,牛肉实在太多吃不完。

午饭后我们又来到火车站,把后面从法国进西班牙的火车座位先订了,然后回酒店拿行李赶往下一站。上次我们在欧洲乘火车旅行时,对欧洲铁路系统的效率和便捷性印象深刻,尤其是在瑞士。凭借我们的欧铁通票,我们上下车毫无问题,延误也很少。然而,当时与我们同行的德国朋友提醒我们,说其它欧洲国家,特别是德国,可能就没有同样的效率。这次刚到德国,我们的第一段30分钟旅程的火车就延误了超过40分钟,让我们几乎错过了转乘到斯特拉斯堡的火车。今天在法国,我们前往阿维尼翁TGV的火车延误了超过10分钟,导致我们错过了前往市中心的5分钟接驳火车,不得不等一个小时才搭上下一班。

这次旅行中最让人纠结的是预订座位。首先,许多火车要求必须订位,而预订费并不便宜,每人每次需要额外支付20-25美元。其次,找到并预订座位并不容易。法国的高速列车对通票持有者的座位限制很多,甚至没有座位可供预订,这迫使我们必须根据火车通票的可用性调整行程。在西班牙,高速列车的座位无法在线预订。上次在瑞士和欧洲大部分地区,我们不需要预订座位,即使需要,在线预订也很简单。

我们傍晚到达阿维尼翁。阿维尼翁是法国南部的一座历史名城,我们选择这里是因为它有法国最古老的夏季艺术节。可惜天公不作美,当我们入住酒店后前往城中心吃晚餐时,雨越下越大。本来应该是一个很热闹的周末晚上,被一场大雨搅局。街头就只能看到像我们这样找地方吃饭的人了。等我们终于坐在餐馆享用美味的法式晚餐时,已经全身湿透。尽管晚餐很简单,但味道很好。 之前法国菜吃的不多。每当提起法国菜,就觉得是那种很贵的法国大餐。没想到法国的普通菜简单,味道也这么好,物美还价廉。

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