Avignon 阿维尼翁
July 7, 2024: Unlike yesterday’s gloom, today’s weather was sunny with a gentle breeze—perfect for an outdoor adventure. We set out before seven o’clock to explore the local market, known for its fresh produce and diverse food booths. He opted for a hearty pork chop with French fries, while she chose the pain aux raisins. Both were delicious and reasonably priced.
After breakfast, we took a leisurely stroll along Rue des Teinturiers. This charming cobblestone street, running alongside a canal that once powered water wheels for textile drying, was peaceful in the early morning with only a few tourists around. Due to last night's heavy rain, which caused a huge mess, the cleaning crew were busy on the streets. The old buildings, shaded by big trees, added to the tranquil atmosphere.
At nine o’clock, we joined a small group of travelers for a tour of three picturesque towns outside Avignon. Our first stop was the bustling Sunday market in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the largest in the region and the biggest we've ever seen. With only an hour to explore, we could barely scratch the surface, but we did manage to pick up a hefty chunk of 12- and 40-month-aged cheese as travel snacks. It was a delightful experience, witnessing the vibrant market that caters primarily to locals.
Next, we visited Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, a 12th-century Cistercian abbey surrounded by fields of lavender in full bloom. The sight of the vibrant purple flowers against the backdrop of the historic abbey was breathtaking, and we took our time wandering through the fields, savoring the beauty of the moment.
Our journey continued to the hilltop village of Gordes, one of the most beautiful in the Luberon region. Known for its stunning architecture and rich history, Gordes offered breathtaking views and a sense of timeless charm. However, our time there felt all too brief, and we wished for more time to immerse ourselves in its unique culture.
Our final stop was the ochre cliffs of Roussillon, famous for their striking red, orange, and yellow hues. Once a center for natural pigment production, the cliffs are now a popular tourist attraction. We enjoyed lunch nearby, with the beautiful scenery and pleasant weather making it a perfect stop. The tour was fantastic, giving us a deeper appreciation of the Provençal countryside.
Back in Avignon, we hurried to join a guided tour of the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes). We were surprised to learn that this massive Gothic fortress was the seat of the Catholic popes during the 14th century when the papacy was based in Avignon rather than Rome. Despite its emptiness today, the palace’s sheer scale and historical significance made the visit worthwhile. The time-slotted ticket system, used to manage the crowds, added a modern touch to the ancient setting.
Feeling fatigued, we took a break at a café on the plaza of the Pope’s palace. As we sipped espresso and sparkling water, we watched an art performance in the square, soaking in the lively atmosphere. After our brief rest, we walked to the Pont Saint-Bénézet (Pont d’Avignon), which now stands only partially intact. Both the bridge and the palace are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Avignon is renowned for its annual arts festival, one of the world’s most important contemporary performing arts events, featuring theater, dance, music, and more. Although we didn’t catch any formal shows due to the limited number of English-speaking performances, we were enveloped by the festival’s vibrant energy. Posters for performances were everywhere, and street performers worked the crowds, promoting their shows. The city was alive, with restaurants and bars buzzing well past midnight. The combination of good food, drink, and art created an unforgettable atmosphere. Of course, we ended our day with a simple yet satisfying French meal at Restaurant EAT.
阿维尼翁
2024年7月7日:与昨天的天气完全不同,今天阳光明媚,微风轻拂,正是户外活动的完美天气。我们在七点前出发去了镇里的小集巿场。那里出售农产品,还有几个食品摊位。除了一个羊角面包,一个葡萄圈,我们还点了一份带炸薯条的大猪排。俩人吃得津津有味,再配上咖啡,太享受了。所有东西还是一贯的美味可口,价格合理。感觉现在全世界就美国物价最贵了。
早餐后,我们悠闲地漫步在Rue des Teinturiers,一条由鹅卵石铺成的街道。它沿着一条水渠,而这条水渠驱动着三个历史上用于纺织染色工艺的水轮。街道两旁是许多老建筑和大树,清晨游客稀少,显得非常安静。时不时能看到清洁工在将被昨天大雨搞得面目全非的街道冲洗的干干净净。
九点钟,我们与另外六位游客参加了当地一个游览阿维尼翁(Avignon)外面三个小镇的半日游。导游首先带我们去了L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue的一个大型周日市场。这是该地区最大的市场,也是我们见过的最大的户外综合市场。导游给了我们一个小时的时间来自由行。这点时间根本不够,进入巿场没多久就开始就点迷路了,一小时内逛完所有摊位是不可能的。我们买了一大块12个月和一小块40个月的奶酪作为旅行小吃,再加上一小袋薰衣草就匆匆赶回小巴。
接着我们往山顶历史名村Gordes方向去。距离Gordes不远的Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque有着名信片般的美景。这座12世纪的西多会修道院被盛开的薰衣草田围绕着,风景如画。Gordes是卢贝隆(Luberon)地区最美丽的村庄之一。它以其令人惊叹的建筑、历史意义和壮丽的景观而闻名。可惜我们没有足够时间来充分欣赏这里的氛围和文化。
我们的最后一站是Roussillon的赭石悬崖,以其红色、橙色和黄色的土壤而闻名。天然颜料的生产在合成颜料出现之前非常繁荣。现在这里只是一个旅游景点。借着今天的好天气,我们在悬崖附近的饭店吃个午餐,享受美景和美食,最后再来份薰衣草冰淇淋。这个半日游很棒,通过走出城市,我们对乡村有了更多的了解。
回到城市后,我们急忙赶去下一个行程,参观教皇宫(Palais des Papes)。之前我们并不知道阿维尼翁这个巨大的哥特式堡垒曾是天主教教皇的驻地,直到14世纪教廷才搬到罗马。它是欧洲最大和最重要的中世纪哥特式建筑之一。由于访问该地区的游客众多,许多景点,包括这个教皇宫都采用了时段票系统来控制人流。游客只能在票上的时间段进入场馆。尽管现在教皇宫对公众开放,但它基本上是一座没有多少家具或其它物品的空老建筑,但仍值得一看。
马不停蹄地忙了大半天,我们感到很累,于是在教皇宫广场的咖啡馆坐了下来。一边喝着咖啡和苏打水,一边观看广场上的艺术表演。稍作休息后,我们参观了现在仅部分保存完好的圣贝内泽桥(Pont Saint-Bénézet)。桥和教皇宫都是联合国教科文组织的世界遗产。
阿维尼翁因其年度艺术节而闻名,艺术节包括戏剧、舞蹈、音乐和其它表演。它是世界上最重要的当代表演艺术活动之一。然而,由于只有有限数量的英语表演,我们没有机会看到任何正式的演出。尽管如此,我们还是感受到了艺术节的热烈氛围。介绍演出的海报满大街都是,街头免费表演随处可见。表演者经常在街上举着他们的海报,吸引观众来看他们的演出。今天是个好天气,餐馆和酒吧都在户外摆满桌椅,午夜后仍然熙熙攘攘。吃饭、喝酒、欣赏艺术表演——多么美好的生活!当然我们也继续享用我们的法国餐。