Disembarked at Reykjavik 下船了

June 23: Our 12-day cruise to Norway and Iceland, exploring the Arctic Circle, came to an end. At 6 in the morning, our ship arrived promptly at the Reykjavík harbor. Before disembarking, we had our last breakfast at the Garden Cafe. Throughout the cruise, we had breakfast in the buffet restaurant every morning - mainly because of the variety of choices and the chance to chat with other travelers. However, this leg of the cruise was full, making it sometimes challenging to find a table. We would occasionally share a table with fellow passengers. 

At 8:30 am, we disembarked and took the complimentary shuttle to the city center. From there, we went directly to the apartment we had booked for our stay. Since check-in was not until three in the afternoon, we stored our luggage in a small storage room downstairs and headed to the nearby bookstore to have a cup of coffee and plan our upcoming days.

After having lunch at a Thai restaurant, we started exploring the city. Our first stop was Reykjavík's iconic landmark—the Hallgrímskirkja Church, also known as the "Rocket" Church. While entry to the church was free, accessing the observation tower required a ticket. The interior of the church was relatively simple, but its distinctive architecture was truly captivating.

Next, we checked off the fishbone sculpture by the waterfront, but the strong winds and waves prompted us to move on quickly. We then visited the Harpa Concert Hall and had the opportunity to attend a free concert performed by one of Iceland's most talented young pianists. This enchanting experience lasted for more than an hour.

After the concert, we checked into our apartment. The location of the apartment we booked was excellent, right on the colorful Rainbow Street in the heart of the city. From there, we could easily walk to the "Rocket" Church. The one-bedroom apartment was spacious and comfortable, complete with a kitchen. Since our apartment was on the top floor, from our room, we had a fantastic view of Rainbow Street leading towards the "Rocket" Church. We could even catch glimpses of the sea.

Once settled in, we went to the nearby supermarket to buy groceries. In the evening, we cooked our dinner and enjoyed a relaxing meal in the comfort of our home away from home.

6/23：12天的挪威，冰岛游轮游结束了。早上六点我们的船就已准时停靠在冰岛首都Reykjavík 船码头。下船前我们先去自助餐厅吃上最后一顿早餐。这次游轮上我们每天都在自助餐厅用早餐，一是选择性多一点，二是有机会与其他游客聊聊天。但这一程游轮游客特别多，常常要花些时间才能找到位子，有时实在不行只能与其他游客拼桌。

八点半我们下船，乘坐城市里提供的免费游船码头到市中心的专车，然后直接去了我们租订的公寓。因为入住要到下午三点，我们先把行李寄放在底层小行李房里，然后来到旁边的书店里喝杯咖啡，安排一下接下来几天的行程。

中午在泰国店吃过午餐后开始采点。首先来到Reykjavík 标志性建筑-哈尔格杯姆斯大教堂，也称“火箭＂大教堂。进教堂是免费的，但上观景钟楼则需要买票。教堂里面除了巨型管风琴外，其它比较简单，倒是教堂的外观更吸引人。

接着来到海边打卡鱼骨雕塑。风大浪大不能多呆，便来到哈帕音乐厅，正好碰上免费的音乐会，由冰岛最有才华的年轻钢琴家为大家演奏，整整一个多小时。

听完音乐会后，入住公寓。这次订的公寓位置相当好，就在市中心的彩虹街上，沿着街就可以直接走到“火箭＂大教堂。一房一厅的民宿舒适宽敞，带厨房。我们的房间在顶楼，从房间里就可以看到不远处的教堂，还能看到海。

Isafjordur, Iceland 伊萨菲约杜尔

June 22: This morning, the cruise ship tendered at the charming town of Isafjordur on the edge of Iceland's Westfjords. Since we did not sign up for any ship-organized tours, we got off the ship as soon as possible and went to the tourist office asking for the local puffin excursion info. Unfortunately, the excursion schedule did not fit our ship's departure time because the small island for the puffin sightseeing was too far. So we decided to explore the town by ourselves.

There was this very nice hiking trail on the edge of the city, and it was going up the hill. The abundant purple lupines, not native to Iceland, were in full bloom along the trail and all over the mountain. They were initially introduced in the early 20th century as a way to combat soil erosion and improve soil fertility. However, they have since become invasive in some areas of the country, particularly in Iceland's southern and western regions. While lupines can add a beautiful splash of color to the landscape, they remind us of the consequence of human introduction to the ecosystem. We enjoyed hiking up the hill in the morning.

Under the clear, sunny skies of Isafjordur, the view from the mountain's summit was nothing short of spectacular. We were greeted by a breathtaking panoramic vista that stretched out before us as we reached the top. Below, the picturesque town of Isafjordur is nestled amidst the surrounding fjords, its colorful buildings standing out against the dramatic backdrop of the soaring hills. The vibrant hues of the hills painted a mesmerizing contrast to the deep blue waters of the fjord, creating a scene that was nothing short of awe-inspiring. It was a moment that etched the beauty of Isafjordur and its natural surroundings deep into our memories.

Later in the afternoon, we strolled through the town center. Despite being a small town with just a few narrow streets for its population of fewer than three thousand people, the city center was well laid out with bus stops, bicycle lanes, and pedestrian paths. The houses facing the narrow bay were beautifully painted, creating a picturesque scene.

As evening approached, the ship set sail from Isafjordur, heading towards Iceland's capital, Reykjavík, which would also be our final destination for the cruise. It has been a while since we left home; it's time to return.

6/22: 今天游船停靠冰岛西峡湾边上的小城 - Isafjordur，我们没有参加任何组团活动。上午爬山看了一下满山的鲁冰花，下午再去城中心转了一圈。只有三千人不到的小城中心其实就几条小马路，但有公交和自行车／徒步专道，面朝狭湾的小房都油漆的漂漂亮亮。

船傍晚就起航离开这里，前往冰岛首都Reykjavík ，那里也将是我们游船的终点站。离家已经很久了，该回家了。

Akureyri, Iceland 阿克雷里

June 21: We bid farewell to the Svalbard islands two days ago, leaving the Arctic behind as we said goodbye to Norway. After two days at sea, our ship arrived in Akureyri, a city in northern Iceland and the second-largest city in the country.

For Connie, this was a return visit to a familiar place as she spent almost three weeks circling the entire island two years ago. It was a new country for Chenggang, so in the morning, he joined a shore excursion organized by the ship to visit the famous Godafoss waterfall, one of the most popular tourist attractions.

Connie skipped the tour since she had already seen the place. Instead, she took a local bus, free of charge for everyone, to visit the museums and the Botanical Garden by herself.

After a quick 45-minute stop at the waterfall, the excursion tour bus came to the botanical garden. Instead of returning to the ship with the tour bus, Chenggang chose to stay in the park, where he enjoyed a cup of coffee and delicious sweets with Connie at the garden's cafe. We shared the table with a couple from Washington State, our fellow cruise passengers, and had a delightful chat and exchanged travel stories for over an hour.

After some rest on the ship, we got off the ship again in the afternoon and walked over five kilometers to explore the old town. Akureyri's Old Town is a charming historic district near the city center. It is characterized by its well-preserved wooden buildings, colorful houses, and cobblestone streets, giving visitors a glimpse into the city's past. The old seafront houses, once situated on the coast, have now recessed away from the water due to coastal land reclamation. The changes have been quite significant over the past one or two centuries. Posts with old pictures illustrated the changes over the years installed at several locations in front of the historic buildings. We thought those were informative and interesting. Walking through this area, visitors can admire the unique architecture and learn about the city's rich history.

The city center exudes a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, with a mix of boutique shops, galleries, cafes, and restaurants lining its narrow streets. It is a delightful place to explore, offering a blend of culture, tradition, and modernity.

After dinner, the ship slowly departed from Akureyri. We then attended a singing and dancing show. As the show concluded, the ship's crew and officers graced the stage to greet the passengers. When the "washing, washing" girl, armed with her sanitizing bottle, took to the stage, the audience erupted in laughter and heartfelt applause, appreciating her dedicated and meticulous efforts to ensure our health and safety. Undoubtedly, she was the ship's most famous and funniest crew member.

The improved weather conditions led to clear skies, and the sea was relatively calm, with no significant roughness. Whales frequently appeared in the area, so we spent some time on our balcony, hoping for a sighting.

Deep in the night, the radiant sun clung to the horizon, defying its descent, creating the illusion that the Earth stood still. It was a breathtaking sight. To our amazement, numerous whales frolicked gracefully in the sea bathed in golden sunlight, and we beheld the spectacle of whales spouting what seemed like "fire." We eagerly observed and captured photographs from our balcony for almost two awe-inspiring hours until half past one in the morning before eventually retiring to sleep.

6/21: 离开北极的Svalbard岛屿，也和挪威说再见。经过二天的海上航行，我们的船来到冰岛北部的Akureyri市。因为佩民二年前来过此地，对她来说算是故地重游。早晨成刚一人就跟团去了著名的众神瀑布，瀑布那里游客特别多，待了四十五分钟大巴就匆匆离开来到植物园。 成刚正好与独自一人自由行也来到植物园的佩民会合。

回船稍微休息之后，下午我们再次下船，走了五公里多，主要看看老城区。以前的海景房因为填海造地现在都远离海岸，看来一，二百年来变化还是很大的。总的感觉是城市虽小，博物馆，花园，老城区，新市区都不大，但环境优美。城市还有免费的环城公交，为游客提供方便。

晚餐后船慢慢离开Akureyri市，天气逐渐变晴，浪也不大。听说鲸鱼常常出没这个海域，整个晚上我们时而在房间的阳台上碰碰运气，希望能有收获。

半夜时分，金灿灿的太阳停留在海平面上不会消失，就像地球停止转动一样，漂亮极了。更为惊喜的是在金色阳光下，无数鲸鱼游戏在海上，我们目睹了鲸鱼喷"火”的壮观景象。二人在阳台上忙活了二个小时到早上一点半才睡下。

Longyearbyen, Svalbard (Lat. 78.22 deg) 北纬78.22度

June 18: The day we had eagerly anticipated had finally arrived. After visiting the Antarctic, we had always yearned to explore the Arctic as well. Longyearbyen, located on the Svalbard islands, was the closest inhabited town to the North Pole and a place frequented by polar bears. Legends and tales of mysteries shrouded this remote town, where polar bears were said to outnumber human residents. Stories circulated about the need to carry rifles when going out, elderly or terminally ill people being required to leave to avoid dying on the island, and childbirths necessitating a return to the mainland due to limited medical facilities. The image of Longyearbyen in our minds was of a sparsely populated Arctic town covered in pristine snow, and visiting there filled us with a sense of adventure.

Beyond the polar bears, Svalbard was also known for its walrus sightings. Although our booked ship excursion to observe walruses had been canceled, we searched the internet for local alternatives. Unfortunately, most tours were fully booked, leaving us to wait and see what opportunities awaited upon our arrival.

The ship docked at nine in the morning, and we hurriedly got off. Fortuitously, we came across a 16-person tourist minivan with three available seats, and we quickly hopped on. The driver, also our guide, took us on a tour around the town and its surroundings. We learned that coal mining was a significant industry besides tourism in Longyearbyen, as the coal deposits here were of exceptional purity. Due to the heavy fog that day, the scenic beauty of the valleys remained obscured during our journey up the mountains.

Our guide also showed us the church and a dog yard where huskies were kept. Yet, the highlight of our trip was the Global Seed Vault, where seeds of major crops from all over the world were stored. This facility was a safeguard in emergencies or global disasters and had already been used twice. Before this visit, we had never heard of such an international seed bank, and we now recognized the importance of such a repository, especially after the COVID-19 pandemic.

After the three-hour tour, our overall impression was that Longyearbyen resembled an antiquated mining town with hardly a trace of polar bears, at least in the area we visited. It lacked the allure and charm of the quaint fishing villages in Northern Norway, but perhaps visiting during winter would offer a different perspective.

After lunch on the ship, we prepared to explore the town center. As we walked out of the ship's dock, we noticed many tourists waiting to board the yachts next to us. These tourists had booked their excursions from local agencies months in advance, and naturally, all spots were taken. However, we didn't lose hope and patiently waited for last-minute opportunities. To our surprise, we managed to secure a place on one of the yachts. The excursion took us to the other side of the bay to observe the glaciers. There, we had the pleasure of sighting numerous walruses and seabirds. This yacht excursion was quite similar to the one we had booked on the ship, yet the price of our two tickets was lower than what one person had paid on the ship. As the saying goes, when one door closes, another one opens. The four-hour glacier and walrus excursion was genuinely worthwhile.

Today, we consider ourselves incredibly fortunate to have the chance to participate in two local excursions. Our only regret was not being able to see the polar bears, but perhaps we would have to venture to even more northern regions on a future expedition.

6/18: 北纬78.22度(Longyearbyen)

梦想已久的一天终于到来了。自从去过南极后，一直想到北极转转。在Svalbard 岛屿上的Longyearbyen 是离北极最近的可居住的小镇，北极熊常常出没的地方。据说在岛上的北极熊比常住居民还多，各种传说给这个遥远的小镇披上了神秘的面纱。什么外出必须带长枪， 老年人或有不治之症的人必须离开，不能死在岛上。因为医疗条件差，生育也必须回到大陆去。想像中的Longyearbyen 镇是人烟稀少白雪覆盖的北极小镇，去那里有一种探险的感觉。

除了北极熊之外，Svalbard岛屿也是海象出没的地方。自从游轮把我们订的出海看海象游取消后，我们开始在网上寻找当地的旅游项目，但是绝大多数项目都满客了，我们只能到达之后见机行事。

早晨九点船靠码头，我们匆匆下船，正好碰上一辆16人旅游面包车还有三个空位，我们赶紧上车。司机兼导游带着我们在小镇周围山上山下兜了一圈。除了旅游业外，煤矿是他们主要工业，这里煤矿石是非常纯的，导游带我们看了几个煤矿。因为今天雾很大，上山后看不到山谷的美景。又带我们去看了教堂和养哈士奇狗的地方。对我们来说，最有意思的是全球种子保存库，世界各地都将一些主要农作物的种子存放在那里。在紧急情况下或全球大灾难时，可以取回存放在那里的种子，据说已用过2次。之前从来没听说过有这个全球粮食种子库的事，现在想想还真应该有这样的保存库。三个小时一圈下来总的感觉是Longyearbyen就像一个陈旧的矿镇，北极熊的影子都没有。小镇远没有北挪威小渔村那种美丽魅力，也许冬天来这里会有不同感受。

回船吃午餐后，准备去镇中心看看。走出船码头后看到不少游客正在等待上旁边的游艇，他们都是几个月前就订好的，当然船已订满了。但是我们不放弃，希望有人没来，我们耐心地等待着，最后还真的让我们上船了。游艇带着我们去海湾对面的冰川。在那里，看到了不少海象和海雀。这个游艇的行程与我们在船上订的很相似，但我们俩人的船票却比我们在船上订的最后被取消的一个人的价钱还便宜，正是常说一扇门关了说不定另一扇门就开了。这四个小时冰川和海象游是非常值得。

今天我们算是非常幸运的，能够有机会参与二个当地的旅游项目。这次唯一的遗憾是没看到北极熊，也许下次再来要坐探险船去更北的地方。

North Cape (Lat. 71.15 deg) and at Sea 北纬71.15度

June 16: We woke up to find our ship had docked in the small town of Honningsvåg, the northernmost town on the Norwegian mainland. Although the town is small, it is a popular stop for many ships touring the Arctic Circle due to its proximity to the renowned North Cape. Honningsvåg also offered a unique treat – the chance to savor fresh Arctic king crab.

After breakfast, we got off the ship and headed to the tourist information center in the town to gather some insights before exploring. We purchased tickets for a local tour bus to take us to the North Cape at 11:15 am. It seemed that most visitors to this town had the same destination in mind.

Still having a few hours to spare, we explored the city, strolled along the seaside, and visited the city park. The quaint streets showcased typical Northern European charm with a church, a lighthouse, colorful fishing boats, and more, creating a picturesque Nordic fishing village setting.

The journey to North Cape wasn't too far, about forty minutes driving distance, revealing the distinct Arctic Circle landscape features along the way – vast and barren, occasionally spotting a few reindeer. Upon arriving at North Cape, we were surprised that the area was bustling with tourists. The parking lot was brimming with big tour buses, RVs, and private cars. The visitor center offered amenities like a restaurant, souvenir shops, and a cinema that continuously screens short films about the Arctic. Although an entrance fee was required to access the center, which our excursion tickets did include, no one checked at the entrance, relying solely on the visitors' honesty. We watched the short film and then proceeded to the park to capture memorable moments at several viewpoints, marking our visit to this iconic destination.

Returning to the town in the afternoon, we rushed to the restaurant for the king crab, which the staff at the tourist information center recommended. To our disappointment, the restaurant was closed. Back at the information center, the staff suggested another option, a Thai restaurant instead. On the way there, we ran into a helpful local who called a restaurant upon learning about our quest for king crab but found out they had run out of crab due to rough weather conditions at sea over the past few days. She then recommended the restaurant where she planned to have dinner that night, the one we visited earlier. We informed her that the restaurant was closed, but she didn't believe it and insisted on taking us there directly. It turned out that the restaurant just opened for business when we arrived, and we were so happy. Unfortunately, the restaurant informed us they had not received any king crab delivery from the Fishman for the last couple of days due to the bad weather. It was a stroke of bad luck, and we figured all the restaurants in town would run into the same problem, so we had to abandon the idea of having a king crab. We thanked the hospitality local for her help and returned to the ship for dinner.

After a satisfying dinner, we decided to explore a location known for its abundance of birds perched on the rocky shores, hoping to capture some beautiful bird pictures. On our way to the bird-watching spot, we passed by the Thai restaurant the tourist office had recommended. Curious, we peered through the window and saw the patrons inside happily relishing the king crab. The sight filled us with excitement, and we couldn't resist entering the restaurant to inquire about a table. The happiness was short-lived. Sadly, the restaurant had just sold out the last delectable crab dish. It seemed luck was not on our side today, and once again, we missed the opportunity to savor the king crab.

On the way back to the port by bus from the North Cape, we spotted fish-drying sheds on the roadside, capturing a quintessential scene of a Norwegian fishing village - drying fish bodies and fish heads. We were curious about them. Since it was near the cruise port, we decided to walk over there and closely examine them. The sheds were massive, a lot bigger than we expected. The fish bodies and heads were separated and dried by cold air and wind on wooden racks. We later learned that since the Viking age, Norwegians have dried fish outdoors in the fresh ocean wind to make stockfish. Now, this kind of dried fish is exported to all over the world.

As the white nights approached, the reindeer herds on the slopes by the bay slowly drifted off to sleep after satisfying their appetites. Our ship left the Norwegian mainland, continuing its journey deeper into the Arctic region.

June 17: The next destination, Longyearbyen, Svalbard, was a bit far, and we wouldn't arrive there until tomorrow. Since we boarded the ship, every day brought us to a new port, keeping us busy from morning till night. Finally, we had a full day at sea, a chance to sleep in, relax, enjoy food and drinks, and catch up on writing our travelogue for the past few days.

Before embarking on our Arctic journey, we assumed this cruise might be less crowded, given the remote location of the embarkation point in northern Norway. However, to our surprise, our assumptions were completely off the mark. Never before had we seen such a bustling cruise ship; finding a seat for breakfast turned into a delightful challenge. One noticeable presence was the significant number of passengers with Chinese heritage, just like us. Around 30% of the cruisers shared our ancestry, and most were in the same age group. It felt like we had stumbled upon a vibrant community of Shanghainese travelers, and the familiar sounds of the Shanghai dialect surrounded us. Over a few days cruising, we conversed with fellow Chinese descent passengers and exchanged stories of our travel experiences. It was fascinating to learn that everyone on board came from different parts of the world, each with compelling tales of adventure and exploration.

In the evening, we dined at another specialty restaurant - the French restaurant. The ambiance was delightful, and the dishes' presentation and taste were a step up from the main dining area. Since we liked the white wine Shades of Blue Riesling very much from our earlier onboard dining experience, we ordered another bottle tonight, intending to savor it over two occasions. After the sumptuous dinner, we watched a magic show.

Due to the chilly weather, we spent little time walking around the ship after boarding. Occasionally, we would step onto the balcony of our room to gaze at the sea, which was calm with occasional fog, and sometimes spot whales gracefully gliding through the waters and seabirds soaring through the skies as our travel companions, adding a touch of wonder and excitement to our Arctic voyage.

6/16: - 北纬71.15度（North Cape)。

早晨醒来船已停靠在挪威大陆最北的小镇Honningsvaag。镇很小，但许多走北极圈线路的船都会到此停留，因为从这个小镇可以去到著名的北角（North Cape）。小镇还有个特色是可以品尝到新鲜的北极帝王蟹。

早餐后我们先下船去镇上旅游信息中心了解一下情况，然后就在小镇上逛了一圈。教堂，灯塔，色彩鲜艳的捕鱼船等等，非常典型的一个北欧小渔村。

我们订了票随当地旅游大巴去North Cape. 来到这个小镇的游客估计绝大部分都会去North Cape。不是太远，开车四十几分钟就到了。沿途是北极圈特有的地貌特征，一片荒凉，偶尔能看到几只驯鹿。没想到的是North Cape 已经完全被游客占领了，停车场停满了大巴，RV和私车。游客中心有饭店，卖纪念品的小商店，还有一个影院不停地放映一个十几分钟关于北极的短片。进游客中心需要买门票，但并没人查票，完全靠自觉。我们先看短片，然后就是在几个景点拍照留念算是到此一游。

再坐大巴回到小镇时已是下午，我们直奔早上旅游信息中心工作人员推荐的吃帝王蟹的饭店而去，饭店没开，非常失望。又回到信息中心，工作人员又推荐了一家泰国店。在去泰国店的路上碰巧遇到一位热心的当地人，听说我们想吃帝王蟹，就打电话问一家店，回答说今天没有蟹。她又推荐一家她今晚在那里聚餐的饭店，我们说没开门，她不信，就直接把我们带到饭店去了。就二，三十分钟的样子，饭店倒的确是刚刚开始营业了，但老板说今天没有帝王蟹，因为前二天的风浪太大，渔民们没办法出海，也就没货送给饭店。那泰国店也不用去了，断了帝王蟹的念头，改去海边拍鸟。拍完照回船的路上走过这家泰国饭店，看见里面有人在吃蟹，赶紧进去却又被告知刚卖完了。真是阴错阳差，我们就是与北极帝王蟹没缘，乖乖回船吃饭去，但还是要感谢那位热心当地人的相助。

在回码头的大巴上，看到路边的晒鱼棚，饭后特意找到晒鱼棚，留下挪威小渔村一景：干晒鱼体，鱼头。

随着白夜来临，在海湾边山坡上的驯鹿群在＂酒足饭饱＂后渐渐入睡。我们的船也离开挪威大陆，继续深入北极。

6/17: 海上行

下一站有点远，明天才能到达。自上船以来，每天一个新港口，从早到晚都在忙，总算有一整天在海上航行，可以睡个懒觉，吃吃喝喝放松一下。同时也有时间补写一下几天的游记。

这次北极游开始之前，还以为我们的游轮可能会比较空，因为上船的地点是在挪威北部一个小地方。实在是太偏远，而且是去北极，一个不太寻常的地方。结果我们是大错特错了。从来没见过游轮上有这么多游客，吃早餐常常连位子都找不到。并且这次游轮上有很多我们的同胞，大概估计一下可能占30%，基本上以我们这个年龄段为主，而其中上海同乡非常之多，有时吃个饭前后左右听到的都是乡音。在船上待了几天，慢慢地开始与一些同胞同乡们聊上几句，大家来自世界各地，旅行经历一个比一个丰富。

今天晚上去了另一家特色餐厅-法国餐厅。环境不错，菜的摆盘和口感的确比大堂餐厅稍好一些。这次又要了一瓶白葡萄酒，还是和上次一样准备分二次享用。美酒佳肴之后再看一场魔术表演。

因为天比较冷，上船后我们几乎没怎么在船上绕船走。有时候会在房间的阳台上看看海，浪虽不大，但常有雾，偶尔有鲸鱼，小鸟伴陪。

Alta (Lat. 69.97 deg) 北纬69.97度

June 15: Our ship docked at Alta Harbor at 7 o'clock. Alta is known for its stunning natural beauty, with majestic mountains, fjords, and the surrounding Arctic wilderness.

After breakfast, we set out to hike the nearby mountain. The journey wasn't too long, about 4 to 5 kilometers from the pier to the top of the hill. The final few hundred meters involved climbing on large rocks, which proved challenging for some of the older passengers from the ship. As we descended the mountain, we had a delightful encounter with a group of fifth-grade students from a local school on an outdoor activity. They eagerly chatted with us, asked numerous questions, and even recommended the local shopping center to visit. They taught us some Norwegian phrases along the way, and their enthusiasm, curiosity, and confidence were fascinating. We were even more surprised to come across a group of kindergarten children climbing up the mountain, led by teachers at the front and back – something unimaginable in the United States. It's no wonder Norwegians love outdoor activities and have a spirit of adventure instilled in them from a very young age.

After our mountain adventure, we visited the Northern Lights Cathedral in the city center. The church was newly constructed. The church's architecture was quite remarkable. The building exterior was titanium sheets with a large spiral and a belfry inspired by the natural beauty of the Northern Lights. It required an entrance fee to see the church's interior, which we gladly paid. Instead of traditional sculptures of Jesus or religious figures, there was a stunning 4.3-meter-tall bronze sculpture of a man, adding a modern and artistic touch to the sacred space. Beneath the bell tower, a gold ladder, seemingly an artist's imaginative creation, led upwards, perhaps symbolizing a path to heaven. Our visit to the Northern Lights Cathedral left us in awe of its innovative design, harmonizing the majesty of nature with contemporary artistry, making it a truly captivating and unique experience, different from other churches in Europe.

Later, we took a bus to the Alta Museum, the World Heritage Rock Art Center, outside the city. It is dedicated to showcasing and preserving the unique heritage of Alta Rock Art, a collection of ancient rock carvings that date back thousands of years. The Alta Rock Art consists of more than 6,000 rock carvings on large panels spread across the landscape, depicting various scenes from prehistoric life, including hunting, fishing, rituals, and daily activities of the region's early inhabitants. The rock painting park was well-maintained, ensuring the priceless paintings were protected and accessible to visitors. We wandered along the path and deeply appreciated the skill and artistry of the ancient people who created these remarkable carvings.

Most of the museum-goers were from our cruise, and many had taken the bus to the museum like us. As we were ready to return to the ship, the bus station outside the museum was bustling with eager cruisers to return to their vessel. Only a few of us had purchased tickets in advance through our phones. When the first bus arrived, the driver was meticulous, ensuring everyone bought a ticket before boarding and only the front door was opened. It took quite a few minutes for only a handful of passengers to get on. The line was long, and people started wondering how long it would take to get on the bus. A little while later, the second bus came, stopping right in front of us. The second bus driver opened all the doors and gestured for everyone to board without tickets. We all rushed in, and the bus departed promptly. Looking back, we noticed the first bus was still slowly loading the passengers.

We decided to try a different restaurant with Brazilian cuisine in the evening. We did remember to bring our saved wine out. Unfortunately, the mediocre food didn't meet our expectations, leaving us somewhat disappointed.

6/15 - 北纬69.97度（Alta)

早上七点船来到Alta港。下船后先去爬山，路程不算长，加上从码头到山脚的一段大概有4，5公里，最后几百米是在大石头上爬上去的，有些年纪大的人就有点困难。在我们下山时，来自当地学校野外活动的五年级学生与我们聊天，问了我们好多问题，还推荐我们去当地购物中心看看。一路上还教我们不少挪威话，他们很热情，好奇和自信，很有意思。最为惊奇的是还碰到一群幼儿园小朋友也在往山上爬，前面有老师领队，后面有老师跟着，这在美国是不可思议的事情。难怪挪威人喜欢野外活动，勇敢的冒险精神从小就开始培养。

爬完山后就去市中心的教堂。这个教堂建筑很别致。进教堂要收门票，但这教堂和其它的不一样，没有耶稣塑像而换成了艺术人像。

坐公交车去城外的博物馆，那里有2～7千年前的岩石画。岩石画公园修建得很好，把这些无价之宝的岩石画保护起来又便于游客观赏。博物馆里绝大数参观者都是从我们游轮来的，很多人都是坐公交车来的。回码头的车站挤满了游客，第一辆车来了，像我们这样手机上已买票的少之又少。司机做事认真，每人必须买票才能上车，而且只开前门，几分钟也没上几个人。过一会儿来了第二辆车，正好停在我们面前，那司机将所有车门都打开，挥挥手不用买票，大家一涌而上，车就开走了。再回头看第一辆车还在慢慢地检票呢。

晚上试了另一家特色餐厅-巴西餐厅，不敢恭维，口味一般，有点失望。

Hammerfest (Lat. 70.66 deg.) 北纬70.66度

June 14: Our ship docked at Hammerfest in the morning. The town is located on the island of Kvaløya, just off the coast of the Norwegian Sea, with a population of more than 10,000. Today, this town is an important hub for the oil and gas industry in the region.

Eager to explore the city, we again purchased a 24-hour transportation card on our phones before stepping off the ship. With two bus stations close to the port, we opted for the less crowded one. With our transportation card, boarding the bus was a breeze. Little did we anticipate that the next stop would be bustling with passengers from our cruise ship. People were confused about paying for the bus tickets and blocked the bus door. To our surprise, the driver kindly gestured for everyone to get on quickly and generously, waiving the ticket fares. This thoughtful act spared them all the inconvenience of purchasing tickets on the spot. With a cheerful atmosphere, the passengers happily made their way to the vibrant city center. We couldn't help but appreciate the driver's kindness in waiving the ticket fares, making our travel experience more enjoyable.

When we arrived in the city center, we first took a photo in front of the Hammerfest city's landmark. Then, we visited the Hammerfest church. We notice the churches in Northern Norway have a similar architectural touch, a long triangle style integrated with the tower with the main entrance or the main buildings. Interestingly, this design differs from what we might find in other parts of Europe, where bell towers or clock towers are often placed on top of the main building. The traditional design in Northern Norway seems to emphasize the verticality of the structure, with the tower integrated into the overall shape of the church and surviving better under extreme cold and heavy snow weather conditions.

We climbed the hill near the city center after visiting the Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society. Although not too high, it had a steep slope, making it challenging. After reaching the hilltop, we enjoyed the panoramic view of the city and took some photos. We noticed a village inhabited by the Sami people, but it turned out to be a tourist attraction rather than a permanent settlement. An elderly Sami gentleman engaged us in conversation and invited us into a small tent with a warm fire. They no longer reside there permanently but utilize the area during the summer to tend to their reindeer and organize tourist activities. The reindeer in this region belong to the Sami people.

As the wind picked up and it started getting cold on the mountaintop, we decided to take the bus back to the city. We met a Norwegian couple also waiting for the bus. They mentioned the bus should arrive in just two minutes, but after waiting for over twenty minutes, no bus was in sight. During this time, we chatted with the couple and learned they were from southern Norway, visiting their daughter's sheep farm on a small island in the north. As the bus didn't show up, they kindly showed us a shortcut down the mountain and even accompanied us all the way to the city center, displaying remarkable warm hospitality. We later discovered that the buses in town took a one-hour break during lunchtime.

We returned to the ship for a quick lunch. Then we visited a small fishing village outside the city and took the bus there. However, upon arrival, we found that the village only had a small dock and a few fishing boats, with no other facilities or a single person. The weather was chilly, and the wind was fierce. The next bus back to the city wouldn't come for another forty minutes. So we had to seek shelter and warmth at the bus station, a concrete shed. It was chilly, and we were a little scared. We even had doubts about whether the bus would arrive on time since it was such a remote area that we might miss the ship's departure time.

The bus did come, and we were back in the city finally. We headed to the monument, which marks the northernmost point of the Struve Geodetic Arc, a part of the UNESCO site. These measurement points were established to determine the shape and size of the Earth, making them significant in terms of world cultural heritage.

With the ship's late departure, we explored a local historical site near the port after enjoying our dinner. This site was a collection of temporary housing structures from the post-World War II era, thoughtfully relocated for preservation. The city had faced significant destruction during the war, leaving only one building standing, which made the post-war architecture even more historically valuable.

Despite its small size, Hammerfest taught us many valuable lessons and left a lasting impression on our journey.

6/14: 北纬70.66度（Hammerfest)

我们外出尽量利用当地公交车，下船前先在手机上直接买了当地2 4小时的交通卡。在码头附近有二个车站，我们去了前面车站，车站上没几个人，我们有交通卡，车来就直接上车。没想到下一站站满了从游轮下来的乘客，大家全要在车上买票，有点乱哄哄。 司机看着这么多要买票的，也许出于好心，也许是怕这么多人票买下来，这车半小时也开不了，懒得收这个钱，就挥手让大家赶快上车，不用买票了，满满的一车人高高兴兴地到市中心全部下去。

我们先在Hammerfest市的市标前照个相，然后走去教堂打卡，接着去爬山，山不高但坡度挺陡的，弯弯曲曲还挺费劲的。在山顶上看看城市全景再照个相。看到附近有个挪威土族人（Sami)的村庄，实际上也是为游客而建的，他们正等着下一波游客团队的到来，我们凑热闹上去和一位老人聊聊，他让我们进到烧着火的小帐篷里看看。其实他们已不住这里，夏天会来这里放养驯鹿和搞些旅游活动，冬天回到较为暖和的山上。这里驯鹿都属于Sami人的。

山上风大，走一会儿有点冷，想坐车回船，看到一对挪威夫妇也在等车，说是二分钟公交车就会来的，结果等了二十几分钟车也没来。等车期间与他们聊天，他们来自挪威南方，去在北方小岛女儿家帮看外孙，女儿家在岛上有个养羊场。公交车不见踪影，我们准备走下山回市区，他们给我们指点了一条近路，怕我们走错就索性陪我们一路下山到市中心，真是一对热心人。我们走回船码头后才发现中午公交车休息一小时。

午餐后心血来潮要去城外的小渔村，还是坐公交车去。但来到那里一看，小渔村就只有个小的船码头和几条渔船，没任何其它设施， 更没一个人。当时天很冷且风非常大，下一班回市里的公交车要等四十分钟才来，我们只能待在车站棚避风保暖。

总算回到市区，接着来到斯特鲁维测地弧最北的一个测量点的纪念碑，这些测量点是为了确立地球的参考椭球体，直接测量地球大小的，被列为世界文化遗产。船要到半夜才离开，晚饭后又去了码头边的当地历史点，他们把岛上二战后建的临时住房搬了过来。二战期间，德军把整个城市都毁了，只有一幢楼幸存下来，所以二战后建筑算是历史建筑了。

这座城虽小，我们学了不少东西。

Harstad (Lat. 68.80 deg) 北纬68.80度

Harstad (Lat. 68.80 deg.) 北纬68.80度

June 13: Our ship arrived in Harstad, a mid-sized city in northern Norway with over 20,000 people. We decided to explore the town independently rather than join the ship's organized excursion.

The local bus transportation in Northern Norway is operated mainly by a single company, Fylkestrafikk, and the ticket fare is based on whether you are traveling within or between zones. The single ticket costs about 37 NKR within a zone; typically, traveling within a city or town falls within a single zone. Since we were familiar with the Norwegian bus system from the previous bus ride, we acquired the bus tickets through an app before leaving the ship.

Our first destination was the Harstad History Museum and Historical Farm, where we had the opportunity to delve into rural life from the past. At the history museum, we learned that the German forces occupied northern Norway during World War II, destroying many buildings. They also constructed a camp to detain Soviet prisoners of war at the location right next to the museum. We strolled through a park built on the former camp's site. Afterward, we continued our exploration and visited the northernmost medieval stone church.

Then, we boarded the bus back to the city center for a brief tour. It was a day filled with historical and cultural experiences as we immersed ourselves in the charm of Harstad.

Besides a few complimentary restaurants on the ship, several specialty restaurants on board require an additional fee to dine in. A meal for two in one of these restaurants would cost more than a hundred US dollars. Our cruise package included two specialty dining meals for two people at any specialty restaurant. To our surprise, the cruise line offered us two more specialty dining meals upon boarding and even gifted us a bottle of wine.

We decided to dine at the Italian restaurant on board for our evening meal and opted for a bottle of white wine, Shade of Blue, a Riesling from Germany. Since neither of us was a drinker, this semi-sweet wine with tropical fruit notes and a crisp citrus finish suits us well. We enjoyed our dinner, savoring the delectable food and the delightful wine. There was no way we would be able to finish the entire bottle. The server suggested saving the remaining wine for us, which could be used for our next visit to any restaurant on board. It was a smart trick we had just learned, allowing us to extend the enjoyment of that excellent Riesling. It was a fantastic dining experience with delicious cuisine and fine wine.

6/13: 北纬68.80度（Harstad)

第一站Harstad 实际上离Tromso不远，有二万多人口，按照挪威的标准，在北挪威也算是个中，大城市了。我们先参观了他们历史博物馆和历史农场，在那里可以体验一下当时的乡村生活。 从历史馆知道，二战期间德军占领整个北挪威，摧毁大多数建筑，在那里还建造关押苏军战俘的营地，我们在旧址上建的公园里走了一圈。然后去了最北的中世纪石头教堂。

下午在城中心走马观花之后就回船了。除了几个免费的餐厅之外，游轮上还有几个需要收费的特色餐厅，二人一顿饭大约需要一，二百美金。我们这次订的船票里包括了二顿特色餐厅用餐。上船后，发现他们又额外送给我们二顿特色用餐，还给了一瓶葡萄酒。今天晚餐去了特色餐厅吃意大利菜，在意大利餐厅里要了一瓶白葡萄酒，喝了一半，服务员说可以帮我们留着，我们下次去其它任何餐厅时再继续喝，这是我们刚学的小巧门。

Tromso (Lat. 69.65 deg) 北纬69.65度

June 11: We made our breakfast in our rented unit. It was a delightful breakfast with bacon, eggs, and a cup of aroma coffee. We were grateful for the convenience of having a kitchen because breakfast cafes in many European cities are hard to come by in the early morning, and they tend to open later. Having the kitchen allowed us to avoid the hassle of searching for food on the streets during those early hours.

After enjoying our breakfast, we proceeded to the local tourist information center to gather valuable insights about the area. We purchased a 24-hour tourist card combining the bus pass and tickets for two prominent attractions: the Arctic Cathedral and Fjellheisen (Cable Car). Excited about our plans, we embarked on our exploration and first headed to Telegrafbukta Beach Park, situated at the southern tip of Tromsoya Island.

At the beach park, we took a leisurely stroll along the seaside, captivated by the soothing sound of waves gently crashing against the shore. The sight of snow-capped mountains across the water added a touch of majesty to the landscape. As we walked, we felt the refreshing sea breeze on our faces, and from time to time, we sat on the benches, fully immersing ourselves in the tranquil ambiance surrounding us.

Our next plan was to take the cable car to the mountaintop, where we expected a stunning view of Tromso. However, we were disheartened to learn that the cable car was closed due to strong winds when we arrived by bus. Disappointed but undeterred, we visited the next attraction, the Arctic Cathedral, which had a charming exterior and interior. Unfortunately, the weather worsened with strong winds and drizzling rain, so we returned to the hotel for a break. As the bad weather continued, our concern grew about the potential impact on the planned midnight hiking tour tonight. The rain might interfere with the tour's enjoyment and safety, making us unsure what to expect.

Fortunately, the rain stopped, and the sun emerged in the evening. At 8 pm, a tour guide picked up Chenggang in Tromso city center and drove him and other participants over the Snadnessunbrua bridge to a larger island, Kvaloya. The first encounter was several reindeer roaming along the roads. The driver let us get out of the car to take some pictures.

Due to the recent rains, the trail was murky and slippery. Undeterred by the challenging conditions, the group embarked on a four-hour nighttime hike up the mountain. Chenggang had a couple of slips and falls during the descent, but it didn't dampen his spirits. Witnessing the sun hanging high in the midnight sky was a breathtaking and surreal sight that left everyone in awe.

Chenggang returned to the hotel around 1 am the next day, feeling exhausted and exhilarated at the same time. The entire experience had been invigorating, and despite the late hour, he felt a surge of energy, almost tempted to continue the journey on foot. The memories of that extraordinary hike will stay with him for a long time, making it a truly unforgettable adventure.

June 12: Our day began with a visit to the tourist information center, where we inquired about yesterday's cable car closure. Fortunately, the staff understood and was kind enough to refund our ticket for the portion of the cable car ride. With that sorted, we proceeded to our next destination, the Polaris Museum. We had the delightful opportunity at the museum to witness a dolphin feeding show. It was a captivating experience, observing these intelligent and playful creatures up close.

The new cruise terminal at the city center was well-equipped, with convenient amenities such as hotels, restaurants, and buses, but it only accommodated small ships with fewer than a thousand passengers. Unfortunately, for our NCL Star cruise, we had to embark from the old terminal, which was outdated and lacking in facilities. In the afternoon, we took a bus to the old cruise terminal located 4 kilometers away from the city center. The absence of passenger lounges was particularly noticeable, and security checks were conducted in large tents, which wasn't as efficient or comfortable. We waited about an hour to pass through the security check and check-in.

Besides this terminal, Norway's public infrastructure was excellent, even in remote small towns, with good roads, public transport, and reliable mobile communication and networks. We haven't used cash so far, and our T-Mobile phones have had no connectivity or data usage issues.

Today marks the beginning of our 12-day cruise to Norway and Iceland, exploring the Arctic Circle. Since visiting Antarctica, we've desired to experience the Arctic. During our trip to Alaska, we didn't dare to drive to the Arctic Circle for a photo, but this time, we can immerse ourselves in the Arctic Circle, fulfilling a dream come true.

After boarding the NCL Star, we dined at the buffet restaurant on the 12th floor before settling into our rooms. With a few hours left before departure, we got off the ship. We explored a nearby botanical garden due to its unique geographical location, featuring flora distinct from the southern regions.

At 8 pm, our ship departed from the cruise terminal, setting the stage for our exciting journey. Over the next few days, we will be venturing farther north, delving deeper into the captivating wonders of the Arctic region. The most remarkable aspect of this northern expedition is the phenomenon of the midnight sun. The sun remains a constant companion, gracing us with its presence throughout the day and night, as we imagined. As we continue our voyage, we eagerly anticipate the breathtaking landscapes and unique adventures that lie ahead in this extraordinary journey under the enchanting glow of the midnight sun.

6/11: 北纬69.65度（Tromso)

今天的早餐自己做，房间自带厨房很方便，鸡蛋，培根，咖啡等等。欧洲许多城市早晨吃早餐的地方不多，店都开得比较晚，对早起的人来说有点不方便。有厨房的话就不用满街找吃的了。

早上先去当地的旅游信息中心了解一下情况，买了包括24小时的公交车和二个主要景点的联票之后便开始踩点。首先坐车来到海边的公园，沿着海边慢慢走，听着浪声，看着对面的雪山，偶尔在椅子上坐坐，真是非常享受。接着我们准备坐缆车🚡，据说在山顶上俯瞰整个Tromso很漂亮。兴冲冲坐车来到山脚下，却被告知今天风太大，缆车不开。那一刻我们别提有多失望了，坐缆车可是我们买的联票中的一个项目。没办法只能去下一个景点-教堂，教堂的里外都比较别致。我们到教堂时外面刮起大风，也开始下毛毛雨，看完教堂后赶着回酒店。担心的是今晚还有个重要项目－北极半夜徒步爬山。

很幸运，傍晚开始雨停日出。晚八点由导游带着我们几位开车到另外一个小岛上去，来回路上还碰到不少驯鹿。在山上走了四个小时，回到酒店已第二天早晨一点了。整个过程很过瘾，有一种说不出的感觉，既是时过半夜，人还是很兴奋，想继续走下去。

6/12: 北纬69.65度（Tromso)

早晨先去旅游信息中心询问一下昨天没坐上缆车的事，他们就把缆车的票钱退还给我们。然后就去看了一下Polaris 博物馆，在那里观看喂海豚表演。

午后我们坐着公交车去了4公里外的游船老码头。他们在市中心造了个新的码头，周围环境很好，酒店，饭店，大巴应有尽有，很方便，但新码头只能停靠一千人以下的小船。而老码头设施陈旧，周围什么都没有，连乘客楼都没有，安检都是在大帐篷里做的。但话也说回来，挪威的其它公共设施还是很好的，既便是偏僻的小城里，公路，公交车，手机通信和网络都很不错。至今我们还没用过现金，我们的T-Mobile手机也畅通无阻，不用加流量。

今天将开始我们12天的挪威，冰岛游轮行，去北极圈转转。自从去过南极后，一直想到北极看看。上次去阿拉斯加时没敢开车去北极圈打卡，这次能深入北极圈也算是梦想成真。

上船后，我们先去十二层自助餐厅用餐，饭吃完房间也可以入住了。离开船还有几个小时，把行李放下后，我们又下船去码头附近的植物小园看看，因为这里的地理位置关系，植物园里树木花草之类的东西是不能与南方比的。

晚上八点，我们的NCL Star游轮慢慢地离开了船码头，以后的十几天里我们的行程会越来越往北，太阳会总是陪伴着我们，黑夜不再存在，有点不可思议。