Seoul - 中浪川河, 王陵

April 12: We had our morning breakfast, packed our luggage, and checked out of the hotel around noon. We moved from the bustling Myeongdong area to a spacious accommodation in the Jungnang district in Seoul, away from the tourist-concentrated city center. It's a perfect place to experience authentic local Korean life and culture. The metro system in Seoul is very well built, and with the T-money card in hand, it was pretty easy to go around the city. Our new residence hotel offers ample space with a bedroom, a living room, a convenient kitchen, and, best of all, an in-unit washer.

Once we settled in, we took a trip to nearby Costco, just a 15-minute walk from our hotel, to stock up on groceries. There were so many Korean products in Costco, but Costco's famous rotisserie chickens and hotdogs were still there. We ate the famous Costco hotdog for lunch and tried the Korean bulgogi pizza. The hotdog was no different from the ones in the U.S., but the taste of the bulgogi pizza was interesting. We probably would prefer the traditional pepperoni pizza.

We made our own dinner tonight and had Chinese bok choy and tasty Korean short ribs. While we didn't partake in any sightseeing activities today, we thoroughly enjoyed unwinding and familiarizing ourselves with the neighborhood, stepping away from the usual tourist attractions.

April 13: Breakfast was the dumplings we bought from Costco, and they were outstanding. Not far from our hotel was the Jungnangcheon stream. The Jungnangcheon stream was said to have most water flowing to the Han River. The stream was very long, more than 20+ miles. We discovered various sports facilities along the stream's banks, such as walking/biking lanes, basketball courts, swimming pools, tennis courts, and a mini-golf course. We decided to go in one direction first (north) and would try the other direction (south) on another day.

The walking/biking lanes were very well built, but only a few people used them. The sports courts were empty. The two of us just enjoyed the peacefulness, as well as the scenic view. After walking for about an hour, we left the stream bank and found ourselves walking on another trail, still parallel to the stream, just a little away from the bank and above the flood protection walls. It was a nice walking trail with many trees, flowers, and small rose parks. There was even exercise equipment on the path, an excellent place for the locals to enjoy outdoor activities. These sports facilities and gardens left a lasting impression on us.

Several farmers' markets were near our hotel. The Dongbu market was just about five minutes walking distance. We could find fresh veggies, fresh fruits, and other products there. Small restaurants were selling many traditional Korean food we loved. The coffee shops always had promotional deals, and we visited them often. We enjoyed walking around the market very much.

At night, many street vendors set up booths along the road selling all kinds of Korean snacks. Our favorite one was the Korean glutinous corn. This corn tasted so much better than the corn in the U.S., and it's cheap too.

April 14: We did the north direction of the Jungnangcheon stream yesterday and had a wonderful time. We decided to head south today after breakfast and embarked on a very long walk following the Jungnangcheon stream all the way to the Seoul Forest Park, where the Jungangcheon stream meets the Han River. Like the ones, we saw yesterday, walking/biking lines and various sports facilities along both sides of the stream's banks. The newly created "Gwangjin Rose Garden" had 30 different kinds of roses planted with a boat sculpture symbolizing the waterside city. Although it was a bit early for the roses to bloom and too late to witness the cherry blossoms, the place was still beautiful, and we could easily spend more time there.

When we finally arrived at Forest Park, we were delighted by the vibrant blooming tulips in the park. There were a lot of picnic tables there which is very convenient for the locals to come here to relax and enjoy nature. While there, we noticed some government officials inspecting the park, as locals recognized and eagerly approached them for handshakes and photos. Despite our curiosity, we couldn't identify who the official was, even after conducting a Google search.

The scenery stroll along the river and stream left us both satisfied and tired. We left the hotel almost four hours ago. To reward ourselves, we enjoyed a late lunch at a seafood restaurant. The octopus was very delicious, but the spicy fish stew tasted too spicy for us.

We took the metro back to our hotel. After some rest, we went to the nearby mall, where we found many restaurants there. One restaurant that serves all kinds of seafood bibimbap got our attention. We ordered the cockle bibimbap, and it was one of the best dishes we had in Korea.

April 15: We took another extensive walk to visit two majestic royal tombs, Taereung and Gangleung. As we walked on the street, some area of the sidewalk was under construction, and the workers not only put the sign but also covered the dirt surface with the mat. This considerate gesture left a lasting impression on us and demonstrated their commitment to safety and the convenience of pedestrians. Along our journey, we made a delightful pit stop at Hwarangdae Railway Park, located adjacent to Korea Military Park. The thoughtfully designed park offers a unique experience, showcasing various trains and railroad-related exhibits. We don't remember we have seen similar public parks in other places. When we decided to take a moment to relax and enjoy a cup of Café Latte, to our astonishment, our drinks were delivered to our table whimsically and delightfully—by a toy train! It was a charming touch that added an extra element of joy and uniqueness to our visit.

We visited the Royal Tomb Museum of the Joseon Dynasty at the Taereung Royal Tomb site. The museum provides insights into the royal burial customs, rituals, and traditions of the Joseon Dynasty, the last dynasty of Korea that ruled from 1392 to 1897. Visitors can explore the exhibits showcasing various artifacts excavated from the royal tombs, including pottery, jewelry, clothing, and other cultural relics. Then we walked to the Taereung Royal Tomb mound. Taereung Royal Tomb has been preserved without damage for nearly 500 years, a miracle under many wars. It is the royal tomb of Queen Munjeong, the second consort of King Jungjong (11th king of Joseon). There were not many tourists or locals at the site. Because the visitors were not allowed to enter the burial mound, we didn't see the elegant details of the tomb too much.

King Myeongjong (13th king of Joseon) and his wife, Queen Insun, were buried at Gangneung Royal Tomb. Both Taereung and Gangneung Royal Tombs are designated UNESCO World Heritage sites. An intriguing 1.8 km hiking trail meandering through the forest connects these tombs, providing an opportunity to appreciate the surrounding natural beauty. Unfortunately, during our visit, the path was closed.

After touring the tombs, we took the bus back to the hotel. Dinner was at another seafood restaurant with seafood pancakes which we enjoyed very much.

4/12: 早餐后，我们整理好行李，大约在中午左右退房。我们离开了繁华的明洞地区，远离游客聚集的市中心，搬到了位于首尔中南区的宽敞住宿。这样的安排让我们能更好地体验当地人的生活和文化。首尔的地铁系统非常便利，我们购买了T-money卡，使用起来非常方便。我们入住的公寓式酒店房间宽敞，有卧室、起居室和厨房，并且还配备了一台单元内洗衣机。安顿下来后，我们前往附近的Costco，只需步行15分钟，购买了一些食品。Costco有许多韩国产品，当然著名的Costco烤鸡和热狗肯定有。午餐时，我们要了Costco的热门热狗，尝试了韩国烤肉披萨。热狗的味道与美国的相似，但韩国烤肉披萨的味道颇有趣。或许我们更喜欢传统的意大利辣香肠披萨。

晚上，我们在住处自己做了晚餐，炒了上海小青菜，烧了韩国排骨，味道不错但排骨有点甜。虽然今天没有参加任何观光活动，但远离市中心繁忙的旅游景点，能让我们更加自在地感受当地人的日常生活，了解他们的生活起居和文化习惯。这样的旅行体验让我们感受到了与众不同的魅力，也为我们的旅程增添了独特的记忆。

4/13：今天的早餐是我们昨天从Costco买来的饺子，美味极了。我们的酒店离中浪川河不远，这是汉江的主要支流，河流长达二十多英里。沿着河岸边有各种体育设施，包括步行/自行车道、篮球场、游泳池、网球场和迷你高尔夫球场。我们决定先向北走一段路，计划着改天再换个方向。这些步行/自行车道建造得很好，但只有少数人在使用，整个运动场上也空无一人。这对我们来说是好事，既宁静又不缺风景，两个人自由自在非常享受。大约走了一个小时后，我们离开了河岸，转入一条位于防洪墙上的优美步行道，它与溪流平行，离河岸不远。沿途有许多树木、鲜花和小玫瑰公园。路上甚至还设有健身器材，成为当地居民户外活动的好去处。漂亮的步行道及这些体育设施和花园给我们留下了深刻的印象。

我们酒店附近有几个农贸市场，其中东埠市场只有五分钟的步行路程。在那里，我们可以找到新鲜的蔬菜、水果和其他产品。小餐馆供应许多我们喜欢的传统韩国美食。而咖啡店总是有一些不错的打折活动，我们常常在那里享用一杯拿铁。到了晚上，我们喜欢在市场里漫步，因为很多街头小贩在人行道上摆摊，出售各种韩国小吃。我们最喜欢的是韩国糯玉米，这种玉米的味道比美国的玉米更美味，而且价格也很实惠。

4/14：昨天沿着中浪川河往北走，河岸周边的城市建设让我们赞不绝口。今天早餐后，我们决定向南走，沿着中浪川河一直走到它与汉江交汇处的首尔森林公园。像昨天一样，沿途两岸有着沿着溪流的步行/自行车线和各种体育设施。其中新建的“广津玫瑰园”种植了30多种玫瑰，并且还有象征水边城市的船雕。尽管玫瑰花还未开放，樱花季节也已错过，但公园仍然非常漂亮，我们在那里度过了愉快的时光。

终于到达森林公园时，我们被公园里盛开的郁金香所吸引。在公园里，我们注意到有政府官员正在检查工作，当地居民认出他后，热切地向他走近，握手并合影。虽然我们很好奇，但即使在进行了谷歌搜索之后，我们也无法确定这位官员的身份。

沿着河流和溪流漫步让我们感到既满足又有些疲劳，因为我们从早上离开酒店到现在已经走了近四个小时了。需要犒劳一下自己，午餐我们在一家海鲜餐厅享用了美味的海鲜。章鱼很好吃，但炖辣鱼对我们来说太辣了。

回到酒店稍作休息后，我们前往附近的购物中心，那里有许多餐馆可供选择。一家供应各种海鲜石锅拌饭的餐厅引起了我们的兴趣。我们点了蛤蟆拌饭，这是我们在韩国吃过的最好的菜肴之一。今天的美食之旅让我们的味蕾得到了极大的满足。

4/15：今天再接再厉，又来一次长长的徒步旅行。参观了两个壮丽的皇家陵墓 - 泰陵和甘陵。在前往陵墓的途中，我们顺便在毗邻韩国军校的花剌台铁路公园逛了一圈。这个精心设计的公园提供了独特的体验，展示了各种火车铁路相关的实物。我们感觉在其他地方很难找到类似的公园。当我们准备放松一下，品尝一杯拿铁咖啡时，我们的咖啡竟然被玩具火车送到了我们的餐桌上！给我们增添了额外的惊喜和欢乐。

我们首先参观了位于泰陵皇家陵墓遗址的朝鲜王朝皇家陵墓博物馆。该博物馆向我们展示了朝鲜王朝（1392年至1897年统治韩国的最后一个王朝）皇家葬礼习俗、仪式和传统。在博物馆中，我们看到了从皇家陵墓出土的各种文物，包括陶器、珠宝、服饰和其他古董，深入了解了朝鲜历史文化。

接着我们来到了泰陵皇家陵墓，这个陵墓保存了近500年，没有受到破坏。它是贞宗王（朝鲜第11任国王）的第二任王后文贞王后的皇家陵墓。由于不允许游客进入陵墓，我们没有看到墓葬的优雅细节。同样，江陵皇家陵墓也是明宗国王（朝鲜第13任国王）和仁顺王后的安息之地。泰陵和江陵皇家陵墓都被联合国教科文组织指定为世界遗产。尽管连接这两座陵墓的1.8公里徒步小径被关闭，但我们还是有机会欣赏到周围自然美景。

参观完陵墓后，我们搭乘巴士返回酒店，并在另一家海鲜餐厅享用了晚餐，品尝了美味的海鲜煎饼。

Seoul-首尔塔，德寿宫

April 9: We left Jeonju and returned to Seoul today. We could only secure two standing tickets for the early morning return train two days ago when we arrived in Jeonju Sation. Last night we informed the host that we wouldn't have time for breakfast as we needed to catch the train early. As we walked through the quiet and empty streets of the village, we managed to find a taxi to take us to the train station. We savored a coffee and a pastry at the station before proceeding to the platform to wait for the train, where we joined many other tourists.

Passengers with standing tickets can only stand between the train cars. From previous train rides, we knew that there were two small foldable seats in that area. But we were unsure if we would be fortunate enough to secure them since our station wasn't the train's starting point. Fortunately, we were lucky enough to find seats unoccupied when the train arrived. Happily, we sat in the connecting area between the train cars for the two-hour journey back to Seoul. It felt like our private compartment, and we needed to get up at each stop to accommodate other passengers to get on and off the train.

For the second time in Seoul, we opted for a different hotel in the middle of the bustling Myeongdong. Since we arrived at the hotel before the designated check-in time, we stored our luggage and ventured out. First, we had our favorite Bibimbap and Korean spicy rice cake for lunch, and then we decided to walk to Namsan Park and see the iconic N Seoul Tower. It was a long walk from our hotel to the tower, but the park's natural beauty and serene atmosphere offered a delightful escape from bustling city life. We had our coffee and sweets at the Tower Plaza, where several shops and café located, but we didn't go up to the top of the Tower to avoid crowded indoor spaces. One of the well-known attractions at the Tower is the love locks. So many love locks in all shapes and colors are hanging at every railing at the base of the Tower, providing a pretty unique scene. We walked back to the hotel, accumulating 17,000+ steps in total.

April 10: We got exhausted yesterday from the early morning train ride and afternoon hiking, so we decided to slow down and take it easy today. The street in the early morning was tranquil, and most shops were still closed. We visited the nearby Myeongdong Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral Church of St. Mary the Virgin, a significant religious and historical landmark in the heart of Seoul, South Korea. It holds great importance as the first Catholic church established in Korea. The cathedral is an impressive cityscape structure with its Gothic Revival architectural style. The underground shopping center hosting various coffee shops and restaurants is underneath the church. We took a leisurely stroll around the area dotted with numerous banks and financial institutions, spending a couple of hours exploring before heading back to the hotel to unwind and rest.

In the afternoon, we walked around the Myeongdong area and went to the Lotte Mall, not to shop, just to have dinner there. We stopped by the food court, which was huge with so many different vendors. We ordered the food from two separate booths, and each gave a location tag. We settled at a table, and the waitress soon brought the dishes to us since they knew where we sat by tracking the location tag. It turned out to be an incredibly gratifying dinner experience.

April 11: After relaxing and light in activity yesterday, we ventured out to the Cheonggye Plaza area early in the morning. The weather was overcast and occasionally dripping a little. We took the subway to the City Hall first. The streets were quiet, and not too many pedestrians. Existed from the subway station, the first encounter on the road was a temporary white tent next to the city hall. It was a memorial and protest site dedicated to the 159 young people who tragically died in the Halloween tragedy in Seoul last year.

The Deoksugung Palace was built during the Joseon Dynasty, a historical palace near the city hall in the center of Seoul, South Korea. Because of the weather, there were not many visitors. During the late 19th century, it became a royal residence and administrative center for the Joseon kings. What is unique is that the palace grounds feature traditional Korean architecture and Western-style buildings, reflecting its particular Joseon period, which we were unfamiliar with. Near the end of the Joseon period, Korea opened up to the influence of Western countries. There is a Daehan Empire History Museum inside the Palace. Tours are available in Seokjojeon Hall, a royal residence built for the emperor and empress. Since we didn't want to wait hours for a tour in English, we joined the tour in Korean with the help of an Audio guide instead. We had a great time in the museum and learned a few bits about the Joseon Dynasty.

4月9日回首尔。二天前只买到二张一早回首尔的站票。走的前一天也和女主人打了招呼，我们要赶火车，等不到吃早餐了。大清早街上没人，非常安静。我们稍微走了一小段路才叫到出租车去火车站。在车站里喝杯咖啡吃个面包后，就去车台等车。在车台上，游客不少。我们知道火车两节车厢之间在上下门的地方会有两个小折座椅供站票旅客使用，因为我们这里并不是火车的起点站，我们担心这两个座位是否还在。火车来了，很幸运，就我们俩是站票。高高兴兴坐在车厢连接区回首尔，二个小时感觉像包厢似的，只是每到一站必须站起来让其他旅客上下火车。

再次回到首尔，这次我们换了个旅馆，同样还是在最热闹的明洞区，位置更中心。我们选择了一家位于繁华的明洞中心的酒店。由于抵达酒店的时间比指定的入住时间早，我们寄存了行李，然后徒步外出。正好是午餐时间，我们品尝了我们最喜欢的韩国美食--石锅拌饭和韩国辣年糕。接着，我们步行前往Namsan公园，那里有标志性的首尔塔。从我们的旅馆到公园路挺远的， 好在公园沿途风景不错。因为不想往人堆里挤就没上塔顶，而是在塔的底层喝了咖啡吃了甜点休息一下。首尔塔还有一个著名景点是爱情锁，每个栏杆上都挂满了形状各异、颜色斑斓的爱情锁，呈现出一个非常独特的场景。最后，我们步行返回酒店，一天累积了17,000+步。

4月10日：昨天因为大清早赶火车和下午徒步去首尔塔，我们觉得有点累，所以今天就放松一下。清晨的街道非常安静，大多数商店仍然关门。我们参观了附近的明洞大教堂，也被称为圣母玛利亚大教堂，是韩国首尔市中心的重要宗教和历史地标。它是韩国建立的第一个天主教堂，具有重要意义。凭借其哥特式复兴建筑风格，大教堂在城市景观中是一个令人印象深刻的建筑。拥有各种咖啡馆和餐馆的地下购物中心位于教堂下方。周围地区有许多银行和其他金融机构，我们悠闲地逛了二，三个小时之后返回酒店休息。

下午，我们继续在明洞地区走走，来到Lotte购物中心。并不是想购物，而是在那里用晚餐。购物中心地下的美食广场非常大，有许许多多不同的供应各种美食的摊位。我们从二个摊位点了不同的菜，然后找了一张桌子坐下，几分钟后工作人员将食物送到我们的桌子上。 这一顿吃得非常满足，很享受着各种美味的韩国美食。

4月11日：经过昨天的小憩后，我们一大早就前往Cheonggye广场地区。天空阴沉，偶尔还下几滴雨。我们乘坐地铁前往市政厅。街道照旧是非常的安静，行人稀少。从地铁站出来，我们首先看到的是市政厅旁边的一个临时白色帐篷。这个帐篷是一个纪念和抗议场所，用于纪念去年在首尔万圣节悲剧中不幸死亡的159名年轻人。

德寿宫（Deoksugung Palace）是一座位于韩国首尔市中心市政厅附近的具有悠久历史的宫殿，建于朝鲜王朝时期。在19世纪后期，它成为朝鲜国王的皇家住所和行政中心。该宫殿独特之处在于融合了传统的韩国建筑风格和西方建筑风格，展现了朝鲜时代我们不太熟悉的一面。而在朝鲜时代的末期，韩国开始受到西方国家的影响，这在宫殿的设计中也可见一斑。由于天气原因，游客并不多。德寿宫内设有大韩帝国历史博物馆，而石祖殿（Seokjojeon Hall）则是为天皇和皇后建造的皇家住所。可以进石祖殿参观，但以韩语为主。由于我们不想等几个小时参加英语导览，我们加入了韩语组，依靠语音指南跟着导游走。博物馆值得一看，我们也学到了一些关于朝鲜王朝的知识。

Jeonju 全州

April 7: We originally planned to take a bus to Jeonju, but we changed our plans at the last minute and took a morning train instead. However, we couldn't find the express train tickets online, so we went to the train station in person to only get the tickets for non-direct rides. We had to transfer trains; unfortunately, the second-leg train was almost fully booked. Our seats were not even in the same train car. Initially, we were unaware of this situation and thought there was just an aisle separating us. However, after boarding the train, we noticed someone had already occupied one of two seats, and we assumed it was a mistake on their part. Even the train staff were initially confused and took a while to realize that one of our seats was in a different car. After experiencing the difficulty of buying train tickets today, our first task upon arriving in Jeonju was to secure our tickets back to Seoul two days later. To our astonishment, almost all the train tickets for that day were already sold out. There are more than ten trains going to Seoul every day, but only the earliest two trains in the morning had tickets left, and they were only standing tickets in the connecting area between two train cars. With no other choice, we quickly bought the tickets.

The most famous attraction in Jeonju is the traditional Hanok Village, so we decided to stay in a Hanok house to experience it fully. Finding a room in the village wasn't easy, but we found one smaller than two beds combined with a private bathroom. With the absence of conventional beds and chairs, we knew that sleeping on the blankets on the floor might be challenging for us. We hope our stay in the Hanok house will give us a unique and immersive experience. The Taxi ride from the train station to the village was quick, and we found our Hanok house without much trouble. The host welcomed us warmly and explained some rules we had to follow when staying in a Hanok house, such as taking shoes off before entering the building, wiping off the suitcase's wheels before taking it inside the room, etc.

After dropping off our luggage, we went to find something to eat. We went to a restaurant recommended by our host and ordered Tteokgalbi and Bibimbap in a hot stone bowl for two. Tteokgalbi is a popular Korean dish made from ground pork ribs like burger patties in the U.S., seasoned with various ingredients such as soy sauce, garlic, sesame oil, and spices, and then grilled over charcoal. It was delicious.

The Hanok Village has two bustling main streets filled with a vibrant atmosphere. You'll find numerous food stalls, restaurants, and souvenir shops along these streets. The roads are often crowded with locals and tourists exploring the area and enjoying the cultural offerings. Many rental shops offer traditional costumes. These shops allow visitors to immerse themselves in the culture by dressing in beautiful hanbok (traditional Korean clothing). It's a lovely sight to witness people of all ages, both locals and tourists, strolling through the village in conventional attire, capturing pictures of timeless moments and creating a captivating atmosphere. It may also allow Korean people to preserve and celebrate Korean cultural heritage in the village.

We first visited Gyeonggijeon, the most famous tourist attraction in the village. Gyeonggijeon, built in 1410, was dedicated to enshrine the portrait of King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty. The portrait hanging in the main hall now is a replica, while the authentic one is kept in the Portrait Museum, which was closed for renovation. In Gyeonggijeon, Koreans dressed in traditional costumes took photos and made timeless memories. Some places had long queues for taking pictures because they appeared in many historical Korean movies and TV dramas. Since we were unfamiliar with Korean history or dramas, we just walked around casually, enjoying the lively atmosphere.

More people were on the street when we came out from Gyeonggijeon. Some shops had long lines. We took a coffee break at one popular café, did some people-watching, and just enjoyed the afternoon. 

In the evening, we went to the night market and joined the locals in queuing for a famous thin meat pancake featured on a reality TV show. It tasted excellent. We also tried different flavors of steamed dumplings, red bean buns, and grilled pork belly skewers. Each food stall at the night market sold something different, so we had the opportunity to try various dishes.

April 8: How was our sleeping on Yo, the traditional Korean-style bedding, last night? The experience of sleeping on the floor varied for each person. Chenggang found sleeping on his back the most comfortable position during the night on the floor. The heated floor provided warmth and coziness, enhancing the sleeping experience. However, there were certain inconveniences, particularly when it came to using the toilet during the night.

On the other hand, for those who preferred sleeping on their side or had joint and back issues, the experience was quite uncomfortable. Within half an hour, Connie started experiencing pain and discomfort. Additionally, getting up from the floor posed a challenge due to the absence of furniture or support. It often resulted in straining the back again. It took some time for her to stand straight, and she felt that she had become one of those hunchbacked old ladies we had seen on the streets of Korea. After a restless night and waking up with pain all over her body, Connie vowed never to stay in such accommodations again in the pursuit of experiencing local life. But we hope the memory will be short, and we will put experience over short-term discomfort again.

In the morning, a simple breakfast was served in our room. The host lady brought a tray for each of us, consisting of two slices of toasted bread, jam, a few apple slices, and two bowls of sesame porridge. The room was tiny, and there was only a little space left near the entrance since the blankets were spread out and covered most of the floor. The host told us to fold the blankets, put them aside, and have breakfast where we slept. It was indeed a multi-purpose floor. It looked like it was covered with a floorboard, but it was traditional Korean paper. That was why when we arrived yesterday, the host specifically asked us to clean the wheels of our luggage before bringing them into the room to prevent the paper from getting dirty and damaged.

The compactness of the Hanok house and the minimalist furnishings reminded us of the simplicity and elegance of traditional Korean architecture. The small bathroom, although essential, served its purpose adequately. We appreciated the effort to maintain the conventional design even in the bathroom, adding to the overall authenticity of the Hanok house experience. Staying in a Hanok house was a departure from the usual hotel accommodations, which may not be comfortable. Still, the overall experience gave us a deeper appreciation for the rich cultural heritage of Jeonju.

After breakfast, we walked across a bridge to venture out of Hanok Village and had a cup of morning Latte in the art district. In the neighborhood, we encountered an artist who had set up a small art garden decorated with beautiful pinwheels on the street. He enthusiastically invited us to take photos in front of his artwork and encouraged us to post them on social media to give him a thumbs-up. Then we walked along the river and over the bridge to the Nambu market, just missing the weekend market.

We didn't stay too in the market. We ventured near the city gate, where a Korean youth dance competition was scheduled. We were excited to witness the vibrant performances of the young participants. However, despite waiting patiently for over half an hour, the competition had not yet commenced. Realizing it might take longer, after seeing a short practice run, we decided to leave the area and explore other parts of the village.

When it was time to satisfy our hunger again, we went to a place we had an eye on it yesterday. Jeonju is Bibimbap's birthplace and is one of our favorite Korean dishes. In the United States, we call it stone pot rice because the rice and vegetables are served in a hot stone pot. After coming to Korea, we found that most restaurants only serve it in stainless steel bowls, and although the taste is still good, it doesn't have the same sizzling flavor as when served in a hot stone pot. We decided to try it today when we passed a restaurant yesterday and saw they did Bibimbap in a hot stone pot. The stone pot Bibimbap was better than the stainless steel bowl version, but we still felt the ones in the U.S. suited our taste better. We also ordered a small pork rib soup, which tasted good. On Saturday, the streets were filled with visitors, most locals, and the cars were not allowed to enter the village.

After a satisfying meal, we climbed to Wansanhilbong Peak in Wansan Park. The mountain has historical significance in Korean history. At the top, we had a panoramic view of the Hanok Village and Jeonju.

Walking down from the park, we went to the mural village outside of Hanok Village. In the mural village, the exterior walls of every house were painted with various colorful murals, bringing new life to the originally old and simple dwellings.

Back in Hanok Village, we returned to the area near the city gate where the dance competition had started. We watched for a while and then went to the nearby night market. We ordered another portion of the thin meat pancake we had just eaten the previous night, and a large box of fried mini crabs served as our dinner. We didn't finish fried crabs; just too much grease food today.

Tomorrow we will return to Seoul, and our journey of exploring Korean cuisine and experiencing the local culture will slowly end. Our daughter summed up our trip to Korea quite well: EAT, EAT, EAT.

4/7: 原本准备乘坐大巴去全州的，临时改坐上午的火车去那里，网上没法买到我们想坐的快车，我们就直接去车站，买到车票但需要中转一下。中转后那一段的火车满座，我们俩座位还不是在一个车厢。开始我们还没认识到，以为只是隔了个走道。上车后看别人已坐在其中一个位子，以为别人坐错了。车上工作人员开始也没搞懂，看了老半天才发现我们的一个位子是在另外一个车廂。有了今天火车票难买的经历，到了全州后在火车站第一件事就是把二天之后回首尔的车票先搞定。一问吓一跳，那天的火车票几乎已全部卖完。每天有十几班火车去首尔却只有早上最早的二班还有票，且只剩站票，只能站在二节车厢的连接区。没别的选择，我们就赶紧把票买了。

全州市里最著名的就是传统的韩屋村，去韩屋村玩就该试一下住韩屋里。房间不容易订，我们这次订到了一间几乎比二个床还小的房间，没床没椅子，被子就放地上，晚上摊开就直接睡地上。还好小房间有个小卫生间。今晚睡在地上不知会怎样的感觉。

放下行李后，先去找东西吃。在房东推荐的一家饭店里要了两人份的Tteokgalbi+石锅饭。Tteokgalbi是用猪排肉做的肉饼，是当地特色，非常好吃。

然后就开始在小村里逛。整个韩屋村有二条大街，两旁有不少小吃店，饭店和纪念品专卖店，街上挤满了游客。到处都是出租传统服装的店，租的人还真不少。路上到处都是穿着漂亮传统服装的人，看着很养眼。我们先来到庆基殿，也是小村里最有名的旅游景点。修建于1410年的庆基殿是为了供放朝鲜开朝皇帝李太祖的遗像。现在悬挂在真殿里的太祖遗像当然是假的，真品在肖像博物馆里，但博物馆正在修整没开放。在庆基殿里，韩国人穿着传统服装在那里拍照留念。因为这地方出现在许多历史电影及电视剧中，所以有些地方排长队照相。我们不熟悉韩国的历史和韩剧，就随便走走看看热闹了。

晚上去夜市场跟着当地人排着长队要一份上过电视节目的薄肉蛋饼，味道的确不错。又吃了不同味道的蒸饺，豆沙包子，还有烤五花肉串。觉得这个夜巿场各个摊位卖的东西都不太一样，这样我们就可以多吃点。

4/8: 昨晚睡地上的感觉因人而异。我觉的还可以，朝天睡是最好姿势。地是加热的，睡在地上暖呼呼，就半夜去厕所有点麻烦。但有人是喜欢侧睡的，且关节和腰都不好，那就不是一点点受罪了。不到半小时就已经疼得不行。腰不好的她从地上爬起来也难，没家俱也就没个搭手的地方，很容易再闪着腰。好不容易爬起来了，却半天也直不起腰，自嘲像极了街上那些驼背弯腰的韩国老太。她一晩上几乎没怎么睡着，早上起来浑身上下都痛，发誓以后再也不住这样的旅馆跟着体验生活了。

一早女房东就送来了简单的早餐，二片烤面包，一点果酱，几片苹果和二碗芝麻糊。房间实在太小，被子铺开就只剩下门口一点点的空间了。女主人告诉我们把被子折起来放边上，在睡觉地方吃早餐。还真是一地多用。地上看着像铺了地板，但其实是一种韩国传统的纸。昨天刚来的时候，主人特地让我们把行李箱的轮子都擦干净后才带进房间，怕弄脏弄坏了这层纸。

上午去韩屋村周围转转，在艺术家小村里碰到一位艺术家在街头搞了个小艺术花园，热心地拉着我们在他的艺术作品前拍照，可放在社交媒体上，为他拉点赞。来到城门楼旁，那里正在举行韩国少年舞蹈比赛，小年轻们都在那里准备，都是那种街头舞，等了半个多小时也没见正式开始。

又到找地方垫肚子的时候了，今天去的地方是昨天就选好的，全州是Bibimbap 的发源地，又是我们最爱韩菜之一，在美国我们叫石锅饭，饭和菜放在滚烫的热石锅里。来韩国后，发现大多数餐厅只卖放在不锈钢碗里那种，味道虽可以，但就没有石锅里吃得香喷喷，所以昨天路过这一家饭店看见有这种热石锅的，就说今天来这里试试。这热石锅拌饭就是比不锈钢碗里的好，但还是觉得美国的更合我们口味。还叫了小排骨汤，味道不错。

酒足饭饱后又徒步去了韩屋村外的壁画村。在壁画村里，家家户户的外墙上都画着各色各样的壁画，给原本破旧简陋的小屋带来新的生机。

回到韩屋村内，再次来到城门楼旁，舞蹈大赛已开始，凑热闹看了一阵之后便去了附近的夜市。又要了一份昨晚刚吃过的肉蛋薄饼，再加一大盒油炸小蟹算是今晚夜餐，油炸食品吃多了会腻，油炸小螃蟹居然没吃完。

明天要启程回首尔了，品韩菜看热闹之行就要慢慢地拉下帷幕。女儿对我们这次韩国游总结得很好：吃，吃，吃！

Busan/Gyeongju 釜山/庆州

April 4: Upon arrival in Busan, our hotel room wasn't ready, so we left our luggage there and went to the nearby Bupyeong KKangtong Market to search for local snacks. It was a big market, and we quickly got lost there. We tried a few snacks, including spicy rice cake, fried squid, chive pancakes, and unique green rice balls wrapped with red bean paste.

Following a satisfying lunch, we returned to the hotel for a brief rest before exploring the renowned Gamcheon Culture Village. This picturesque locale, characterized by its colorful houses and narrow alleyways, was a must-visit destination. We went up and down through alleyways and enjoyed the excursion. We climbed up the “Stairs to See Stars”, felt a little tired but not dizzy. Many tourists waited in line to take photos with the statue of the Little Prince and the fox overlooking the whole village, a Social Media hotspot.

We returned to the city for dinner and enjoyed a delicious Korean barbecue feast. The flavorsome grilled meats were accompanied by an array of traditional side dishes and a delicious crab and clam soup. With our appetites satiated, we revisited the market from earlier in the day, taking advantage of its convenient proximity to our hotel. The evening market had transformed, featuring numerous mobile food stalls offering a variety of tempting snacks. Despite their attractive appearances, we decided to save these treats for the following night.

April 5: Busan greeted us with a continuous downpour. Undeterred, we remained committed to our original plan of taking a bus to Gyeongju, the ancient capital of Korea, located one hundred kilometers away. Unfortunately, the inclement weather persisted in Gyeongju, with strong winds adding a chilly touch. After reaching our destination, we boarded a local bus to Bulguksa Temple. Before immersing ourselves in its tranquil ambiance, we savored a delicious Bulgogi set meal nearby. This particular style of Bulgogi differed from the grilled version we had encountered in the U.S., as the ingredients were boiled in water, resembling a hot pot with less broth. Nevertheless, the flavors were still exceptional.

Notably, Bulguksa Temple differed from other temples in its lack of burning incense, and visitors were required to remove their shoes before entering the temple halls. As we made our way towards the temple, cherry blossom trees adorned the surroundings; however, the heavy rain and wind had unfortunately damaged most of the blossoms.

After visiting Bulguksa Temple, we opted to take a taxi to the East Palace and Moon Pond, which was reconstructed in recent years. Given the wet and cold weather conditions, our enthusiasm for exploring further waned, leading us to return to Busan via train.

Outside Busan Station, we went to a renowned fish cake shop, Samjin Eomuk, offering a diverse selection of fish cake products. Curiosity piqued, we sampled rice cake/fish cake, and green pepper fish cake. While the rice cake/fish cake didn't leave a lasting impression, the green pepper fish cake stood out with its delicious filling of various meats and shrimp. Busan's streets and markets are packed with fish cake vendors, offering locals a satisfying and convenient snack.

We revisited the nearby market for dinner, only to realize that the mobile food stalls from the previous night had yet to arrive. It appeared they were exclusive to the late-night market. Nonetheless, the permanent stalls remained open, allowing us to indulge in local food. Our feast consisted of deep-fried delicacies such as cuttlefish, shrimp, fish sticks, mixed noodles, spicy rice cakes, and fish cakes. After several days of culinary indulgence, it was safe to say our blood sugar levels were likely to rise.

April 6: We had been away from home for a whole week and had been busy every day since, so we decided to take a well-deserved rest. In the morning, we explored the vicinity of our hotel in search of a typical local breakfast but were disappointed to find nothing exceptional. Undeterred, we went to the nearby market and found that most stalls were still closed. We continued our search. Fortunately, the weather was favorable, offering ideal conditions for outdoor activities. We first visited the renowned Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) street and were pleasantly surprised to find a few mobile food stalls open. We couldn't resist indulging in delicious steamed buns that resembled steamed dumplings. Subsequently, we made our way to the Jagalchi seafood market. Unfortunately, the indoor area was undergoing renovation, discouraging us from venturing inside. However, the outdoor stalls stretched endlessly, showcasing an astonishing variety of seafood we had never encountered before in the morning. Continuing our stroll along the seaside, we eventually reached Lotte Mall, a large shopping center resembling those in other parts of the world.

After briefly exploring the mall, we ascended to the top floor, discovering a specialized Bulgogi restaurant. The menu presented four different types of Bulgogi, yet we struggled to fully grasp the distinctions despite our attempts to communicate with the waitress.With her phone's translation feature, the waitress explained that one version came with soup while the others did not. Intrigued, we opted for the soup option. Relying on our phones for further translation, we uncovered that two varieties featured Korean beef, while the remaining two offered American beef. We naturally opted for Korean beef. It wasn't until the dishes arrived that we realized the key difference between the soup and non-soup versions was the marinade. Adding to the amusement, we discovered that the disparity between Korean and American beef lay not in the type of beef itself but rather in the grilling method. Korean Bulgogi was traditionally boiled, while the American version aligned more closely with what we had experienced in the U.S., being grilled. Unfortunately, the translation apps on our phones struggled to provide accurate assistance during our time in Korea, and the live translation earphones we had bought before the trip was a total failure.

After lunch, we ascended to the rooftop garden. This beautifully designed and expansive space offered panoramic views of Busan, leaving a lasting impression.

Upon descending from the garden, we made our way to the famous Busan Tower, conveniently located not far from the mall. Continuing our leisurely walk, we passed the seafood market again, realizing we had only explored a small section in the morning. To our surprise, the market stretched far and wide, not only offering fresh seafood but also a variety of dried goods in Nampo-dong Dried Fish Wholesale Market nearby. Adjacent to the market, modest seafood stalls housed within large tents made of plastic sheets for protection. With the coal-fired barbecue grills outside, tables and chairs were arranged inside the tents, inviting visitors to relish the abundance of fresh and raw ingredients.

As we made our way back, we found ourselves passing through BIFF Street once again. Now there are more vendors on the street. This time, we couldn't resist trying a unique dish called Korean pancake with melon seeds. While Korean fried chicken, highly praised in the U.S., was not as popular as anticipated, we did come across a few places offering it. Since we had a heavy lunch, we visited a chain restaurant, Lotteria, for dinner. We ordered chicken wings that surpassed our expectations, surpassing even the renowned KFC.

Tomorrow a new adventure is waiting for us.

4/4: 上午坐火车去釜山市，韩国第二大城市。在坐Taxi去火车站之前在旅馆旁边的安东老城及传统文化博物馆区转了一圈，那里的建筑非常漂亮。从安东去釜山的火车三个半小时左右，没有快速子弹车，不过一路还算舒服。到了釜山，旅馆的房间还没好，我们把行李寄放在那里就匆匆去附近的集市找小吃。要了鱼饼辣年糕，炸尤鱼，韮菜葱油饼和豆沙青团。他们的豆沙青团是青团包在豆沙里。集市非常大，走进去会迷路的。

午餐后回到旅馆小息后就去甘川文化村，那里有色彩鲜艳的小屋和狭窄的小巷，是值得一去的地方。有个什么网红点在最上面，好多人排着长队等着和小王子拍照。

晚饭回城里吃韩国烤肉，除了有韩国小菜外，还给螃蟹蛤蜊汤，味道都不错。吃饱喝足又再次来到中午刚去过的集市，因为就在住的旅馆旁边，太方便了。晚上的集市多了许多卖不同小吃的移动摊位，看着嘴馋，可实在吃不动了，留着明天晚上再来吧。

4/5: 今天的釜山一整天都在下雨，我们还是按原计划坐大巴去一百公里外庆州，朝鲜的古都。庆州同样是下雨天，风还特别大，特别冷。到了庆州后又乘坐当地公交车去城外的佛国寺，先在寺庙旁的小镇上要了Bulgogi套餐为午餐，这里的Bulgogi不像美国的那样烤的，而是放在水里煮的，有点像吃火锅，但没那么多汤水，味道还算可以。佛国寺与国内的寺庙不同的地方就是没见人烧香，另外必须脱鞋进寺堂。一路走到佛国寺，周边全是樱花树，只可惜我们错过了，这场大风大雨将樱花打得所剩无几。参观完佛国寺，我们叫了出租车去东宫和月池，很漂亮但都是近年复造的。参观这二处古迹后，因为天实在是又湿又冷，没了兴致再去看其它的，我们便坐火车回釜山。在釜山站外去了一家有名的鱼饼店，店里各色各样鱼饼食品，我们要了年糕鱼饼和青椒鱼饼，年糕鱼饼没什么特别，但青椒鱼饼昧道很不错，里面塞了各种肉，虾之类的。在釜山这里到处都是卖各式鱼饼的，集市里，马路上全都是，吃上一串鱼饼就算垫饥了。

晚饭又去了附近集市，发现昨晚上看到的移动摊位一个都还没来，还真只做夜市的。固定摊位还都在，我们就继续吃当地的小吃，各种油炸的尤龟，虾，鱼条都试试，拌粉条，当然还有辣年糕和鱼饼。估计这几天下来，血糖指标要直线上升了。

4/6: 离家整整一个星期了，每天都在不停地赶东赶西，有点累，今天就休息一下。一早先去旅馆周围看看有什么当地的特色早餐，很失望啥都没见着。又去旁边的集市看看，好像韩国人不早起，大部分摊位还没开，两人只能继续找。正好今天天气不错，适合在外面走走。先来到有名的BIFF（釜山国际电影节）街上，很意外地发现有几个移动摊位已经开始营业了。买了份蒸包子，应该说更像蒸饺子，好吃。接着走去海鲜市场看看，室内区在装修，我们没进去，外面的摊位一眼望不到头，有些海鲜从来没有见过。继续沿着海边散步，不一会儿就来到Lotte 商城，感觉和中国的大商城很像。走马观花看过便来到十楼的餐厅层，又找了一家做bulgogi的饭店。菜单上有四种不同Bulgogi，与服务员说了半天也没搞懂。她用手机从韩文翻译成英文，说是一种有汤一种没汤，我们觉得奇怪，什么叫一个有汤一个没汤呢，那就要有汤的。我们也用我们的手机把菜单翻了一下，两个是韩国牛肉，两个是美国牛肉，到韩国当然要吃韩国的牛肉。当上菜后我们才恍然大悟，有汤没汤就是腌没腌，最好笑的是韩国牛肉和美国牛肉的差别不是牛肉而是不同的烧烤方法，韩国Bulgogi是水煮的而美国的才是烤的，就像在美国吃到的那种，这次来韩国翻译软件不太管用，临行前特地买的翻译耳机更是失败。

饭后来到屋顶花园，花园造得很别致，大得离谱，在上面可以看到釜山的全景。下了花园便来到离商城不远的釜山一景的塔和公园，也算是到此一游。左转又转又来到海鲜市场，发现上午我们才走了一小段，基本以新鲜的海产品为主。而整个海鲜市场其实大得惊人，不只卖新鲜的，还有干货。两旁还有破陋的海鲜小吃摊，用塑料布做的大帐篷，中间放桌子和椅子，外面放一个用煤的烧烤炉，反正原材料到处都是，而且还新鲜。

往回走时又路过BIFF街，来了份油煎饼夹瓜仁，很特别。在美国，都说韩国炸鸡很好吃，来后也看到几家卖炸鸡的，但并非到处都是。中午吃多了，晚餐就去一家连锁店要四个炸鸡翅，味道比KFC上口。

Andong 安东

April 3: In the early morning, we departed from Seoul by taking South Korea's state-of-the-art high-speed train to reach the ancient central city of Andong. After storing our luggage at the bus station, we went to the tourist office at the station to find out the information on the local transportation to the Andong Hahoe Village. Knowing that we won't be able to catch the bus to Hahoe Village in a few minutes, we went to the café in the station for a cup of Latte and a pastry and took a rest. We hopped on a local bus one hour later. In most cities in Korea, we can use T-Card we bought in Seoul for public transportation. We got off at the ticket office of the village, purchased the tickets, and boarded the free shuttle taking us to the village.

Once we got off the shuttle, we were greeted by a breathtaking display of cherry blossoms on the causeway stretching alongside the river. Our timing was impeccable, as it was spring, and the cherry blossoms had bloomed in their full glory. Rather than heading directly to the village, we decided to take a stroll along the walkway. The beauty of the cherry blossoms washed away any fatigue accumulated from our long journey, leaving us rejuvenated and captivated by the enchanting scenery of Korea's renowned cherry blossoms.

The Hahoe Village is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hahoe Village was established in the 14th-15th century by the Ryu clan, a renowned Korean family that produced prominent scholars and statesmen. With the village surrounded by water on three sides and backed by the scenic Flower Mountain, it truly is a place of excellent Feng Shui. The village's traditional tiled and thatched houses have been remarkably well-preserved to this day, and there are still a few residents living there. As we explored the village, we were pleased to see the meticulous restoration work, resembling what we had seen in Korean dramas. There were not too many tourists, creating a serene and peaceful atmosphere. Our impression of Hahoe Village was quite positive, and it is definitely worth a visit.

After we visited Hahoe Village, we took the bus back to the bus station, picked up our luggage, and hopped on the taxi to go to the city center of Andong, where our hotel was located. After a brief rest, we headed to the nearby market in the old town.

The most famous Andong dish is Andong Jjimdak, a savory stewed chicken. Next to the market, an entire street is dedicated to serve the chicken dish, named Andong Jjimdak Street. This street is lined with over a dozen restaurants specializing in this dish. The stewed chicken was essentially braised chicken pieces with a few potatoes, carrots, and plenty of potato noodles. Each restaurant had several stoves set up outside for on-the-spot cooking. We ordered a small portion, but to our surprise, it arrived in an enormous pot that startled us. We couldn't even imagine what the large portion would look like. It felt like each portion was equivalent to a whole chicken. The taste was truly delightful, with a hint of spiciness and sweetness. In addition to the stewed chicken, Andong cuisine featured fried salted fish and Soju (Rice Wine). However, the shops only sold chicken and had no salted fish. While they did have rice wine, a bottle of it would be way too much for the two of us to handle, who don't drink alcohol. So we decided not to order it. We'll have to seize another opportunity to try salted fish in the future.

April 4: Before leaving for the train station, we took the opportunity to explore the captivating Andong Old Town and Traditional Cultural Museum near our hotel and see a Buddhist temple in the morning. The street was quiet, and we took pictures of the mural along the road. Then we called a taxi to the train station, had coffee and huge egg tart at the station cafe, and embarked on a morning journey to Busan, South Korea's second-largest city.

4/3: 一早离开了首尔乘坐韩国最先进的高速火车来到中部古城安东，把行李寄放在公交车站里之后，乘坐当地的公交车来到被列为世界遗产名录的河口村参观。春暖花开，正好碰上樱花盛开的时候，两人慢步在长堤上把这几天长途旅行带来的疲劳抛在脑后。河口村是建于公元十四 - 十五世纪的韩国柳氏家族的村落，在那里出了大儒家和宰相。这小村三面环水，背靠花山，真是风水宝地。村内的瓦房和草房均完好保存至今。现在还有少许人住在那里。我们在村里走走，小村修复得不错，就像韩剧中看到那样。游客不算多，非常安静。对河口村印象挺好，值得一去。

参观完河口村后，坐公交车回车站取了行李， 叫了出租车来到安东城中的旅馆。

小息后，去旅馆附近的安东炖鸡小街上吃韩国有名的美食 - 安东炖鸡。这条街上有十几家专做炖鸡的店，我们点了份小的炖鸡，结果上来一特大盆，吓我们一跳，真不知道点大份的会是什么样的盆。炖鸡实际上就像是红烧鸡块，加少许土豆，胡萝卜，还有许多红薯粉条。每家店外放几个炉子，当场现烧。感觉每份就是一只鸡，估计我们要了一只小鸡，吃了不少，味道还真不错，有点小辣有点甜味。除了炖鸡，安东美食还有炸咸鱼和烧酒，店里只卖鸡没有咸鱼，烧酒倒是有，可一瓶烧酒对我们二个不会喝酒的人来说肯定喝不完，所以就没点。咸鱼也只能以后有机会再尝试了。

4/4: 上午坐火车去釜山市，韩国第二大城市。在坐出租车去火车站之前在旅馆旁边的安东老城及传统文化博物馆区转了一圈，那里的建筑非常漂亮。在火车站的咖啡馆吃了早点之后， 登上去釜山的火车。

DMZ, Korean 非军事区

April 1: We left home on March 31 and flew to Seoul, South Korea, with a layover in Honolulu. Direct flight from the U.S. mainland to Asia usually takes between 12 to 15 hours these days, which becomes too long for our aging bodies. We tried to find a better way to handle the long journey. We booked Hawaiian Airlines in Economy Cabin but upgraded to the exit row with extra legroom. The wide-body jet usually has ample open space at the exit door. The flight was still long, about 7~8 hours for each segment, but since we had a stop at Honolulu in the middle of the flight and with the extra legroom, the flight was not too bad.

After a 23-hour-long journey, we finally arrived in Seoul, the capital of South Korea, on the evening of April 1. Our hotel was in Myeongdong district, the city center, but the Incheon International Airport was far away from the city. The express train from the airport to Seoul Station was convenient. The hotel reception was entirely replaced by robots, not a single person in sight. We checked in with the robot and our room was the smallest hotel room we ever had stayed. After dropping off our luggage, we ventured out to the nearby Myeongdong Night Market. We ordered grilled octopus, grilled beef, and stir-fried potato noodles, and although the taste was good, the prices were a bit higher than the dishes in the nearby small restaurants.

April 2: We had to wake up early before 6 am and boarded a tourist bus to visit the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) on the 38th parallel. When we booked the tickets, the meeting time was initially scheduled for 7 am, but it was changed to 6 am after payment. We arrived at the Imjingak Pyeonghwa Nuri Park a little after 7, and already more than a dozen buses were parked in the parking lot. It seemed that others had woken up even earlier. We met a Dutch couple who said they gathered to leave the city at 5 am. The tour guide collected our passports and rushed to the ticket office to buy tickets. After thirty minutes, he returned and said the tickets were purchased and we would enter the DMZ at 2:30 in the afternoon. However, the ticket office wouldn't open until 9 am, so he must have arranged for someone to queue up and buy tickets for us.

Before heading to the DMZ, we had six hours to spare. We first strolled around the Imjingak part of Imjingak Pyeonghwa Nuri Park, the memorial area, and had breakfast. Imjingak Park has many statues and monuments regarding the Korean War, including Mangbaeddan, Monument to US Forces in the Korean War, Peace Train, and a bunker. There is also a selection of restaurants and an observation deck.

Then they drove us to the nearby Suspension Bridge Park to enjoy the beautiful scenery. We made a short stop at the Gloster Hill Memorial Park, commemorating the Gloucestershire Regiment's actions during the Battle of the Imjin River during the war. The original memorial and the recent expansion of the park are both thoughtfully designed and emotionally stirring.

Another memorial dedicated to the Gloucester Regiment, Gloucester Heroes Bridge, is not too far from the Memorial Park. The suspension bridge, which is over 220m long and 10m high, is the longest in South Korea. A small but quite beautiful Buddhist temple is on the hill at the end of the bridge. We did manage to climb up the mountain to visit the temple and back down to board the bus on time.

Returning to the park, we had lunch and continued leisurely walking on the other side, Pyeonghwa Nuri Park, also known as Peace Nuri Park. It is an extension of Imjingak Park and focuses on promoting peace and reunification. It features sculptures, art installations, and exhibition halls conveying peace and unity messages. We were fortunate to have good weather, with many people flying kites, young people camping and having picnics on the lawn, and even a music concert and amusement park. The colorful pinwheels were enjoyable to see. We sat there, drank coffee, and enjoyed the lively atmosphere.

The tour guide repeatedly emphasized the importance of returning to the bus on time for the DMZ. Finally, we arrived at the entrance of the DMZ. South Korean soldiers boarded the bus and checked our passports before the bus entered the control area. Our first stop was the Third Tunnel. It is said that North Korea had prepared sixteen tunnels to invade South Korea, and four of them have been discovered. The Third Tunnel is open to the public, and the tour guide jokingly mentioned that North Korea was so poor because they spent so much money on digging the tunnels, only for others to profit from them. Inside the tunnel, taller individuals had to stoop while walking, and we could constantly hear the sound of safety helmets hitting the ceiling. Chenggang was one of the victims. After the tunnel visit, we visited an observatory on the mountaintop to glimpse North Korea on the other side. With the clear weather, we could see people walking around the North Korean town through the telescope. Finally, in the Unification Village, we enjoyed some local soy milk ice cream, which tasted delicious.

The tour guide was amiable and well-informed, providing insightful information throughout the trip. However, he had a persistent cough that continued throughout. We sat in the front row, right beside him. During the return journey, he confided in us, revealing that he had contracted Covid a month ago and was still struggling to recover fully, mainly because he had lost his sense of smell. This revelation left us uneasy, but we allowed ourselves to relax a bit, assuming that we were adequately protected by our vaccination shots and had yet to contract the virus. We believed that we were somehow immune to the dangers of Covid.

After returning to Seoul, we went directly to a park along the Han River to see the cherry blossoms. Upon exiting the subway station, we found the place crowded with people. The lawn were fully occupied, and there were long queues to buy snacks. Young people stood in line to buy a bowl of instant noodles and sat on the ground to eat, embracing the ambiance. As elderly folks, we decided not to join the crowd and quickly returned to Myeongdong. We found a small restaurant near our hotel and enjoyed our favorite hot stone pot rice, seafood pancakes, and tofu soup. After the meal, we returned to our room to rest, knowing we had to wake up early the next day to continue our journey.

4/1: 经过整整二十三小时长途旅行后，在四月一号晚上到达韩国首都首尔。入住旅馆的前台完全被机器人代替了，一个人影都没有。放下行李后便马不停蹄地去了附近的明洞夜市，烤章鱼，烤牛肉和炒粉条各要了一份，味道还不错就是价格高了一点，比附近的小饭店里的菜还要贵。

4/2: 早早起床六点就上了旅游大巴去三八线的非军事区（DMZ)参观，订票时说是七点集合，钱付完后改成六点了，说是为了赶着买进非军事区的票。我们七点多一点就到和平公园，停车场上已经有十几辆大巴，看来别人比我们还早起，碰到一对荷兰的老外说他们五点集合离城的。导游把我们护照收起，赶着去售票处买票。过三十分钟后他回来说票买好了下午二点半进非军事区。但是售票处要九点才开，估计他肯定是找黄牛排队买票的。

在去非军事区前我们有六个小时打发，先在和平公园的纪念区转转，吃了个早点，然后去附近的吊桥公园看看，风景不错，我们还爬山去了山里的寺庙。再次回到和平公园，吃个午饭，接着在公园另一边走走，那里主要是当地人带孩子们休息玩耍的地方。正好赶上个好天气，好多人在放风筝，年轻人在草坪上搭上帐篷露营野餐，还有音乐会，游乐场。我们就在那里喝咖啡看热闹。

导游一再强调我们必须准时回大巴前往DMZ。终于来到非军事区的入口处，韩军小兵上车检查护照后，我们先去了第三隧道参观。据说北朝为了攻克南朝一共准备挖十六隧道，到目前为止已发现了四条。第三隧道对外开放，导游开玩笑说北朝所以穷就是花了那么多钱挖隧道，结果都让别人用来赚钱了。隧道里人高的必须弯腰走，一路就听见安全帽撞击的声音。隧道岀来又去山顶上的望远楼看看北朝鲜那一边。天气好，从望远镜里可以看到对面北朝鲜小镇上人走来走去。最后在统一小镇上吃上当地大豆冰淇淋，味道不错。

回到首尔后又直接去了汉河边的公园看樱花。出了地铁站后发现那里人山人海，草地全坐满人，买小吃都要排长队，年轻人排着长队买一碗泡面坐地上吃，他们要的是情调。我们老头老太就不凑热闹了，赶回明洞区，在旅馆边找了家小店，吃我们喜爱的石锅饭，海鲜饼和豆腐汤。饭后回房休息，明天又要早起继续我们的旅程。

Cancun 坎昆

Feb. 20-23: Over a week ago, due to the political turmoil in Colombia, we had to make a last-minute decision to cancel our plans to visit the country. Instead, we decided to head back home directly from Costa Rica. However, we didn't cancel our planned last stop on our Central America trip, Cancun, Mexico. Instead of flying from Bogota, Colombia, to Cancun, we needed to fly out from Phoenix. We booked the one-way tickets right after we arrived home from Costa Rica. After a week at home, we flew to Cancun on the 20th.

We booked a three-night all-inclusive vacation package from Costco Travel. We waited more than one hour at the Cancun airport to be picked up and transferred to Wyndham Grand Cancun Resort and Villas. The experience wasn't pleasant. Since we would arrive in Cancun with different airlines and flight numbers, we updated our flight information with Costco Travel right after buying new tickets. We were unsure what caused the delay; we checked with the local company at Cancun Airport that handles the transfer, and our names were on the list. We finally arrived at the resort after a long wait. The dinner was a simple buffet at the resort since we were too late to book the specialty restaurant.

We started our morning with breakfast at the resort's beachside restaurant the following day. It was a beautiful scene, and it just couldn't get any better. The ocean was calm, although small yellow and red flags scattered along the beach indicated various safety conditions. After breakfast, we took the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the warm waters of the Caribbean Sea, which starkly contrasted with the Pacific Ocean on the opposite side of the continent.

Unfortunately, the weather became windy as the days passed, and the waves grew rough. Small red flags replaced yellow ones, signaling risk warnings, and were all over the beach, making us hesitant to venture into the water. Our plans to go on a bird-watching tour to an island had to be canceled as all boat trips were suspended due to unfavorable ocean conditions.

Despite the unforeseen changes, we made the most of our time in Cancun. Each morning, we indulged in the tranquil beauty of the beach, witnessing breathtaking sunrises while enjoying breakfast. Afterward, we ventured outside of the resort to explore the surrounding area. One afternoon, we had a wonderful time capturing numerous photos of the pelicans on the beach.

Our hotel offered various dining options, including Japanese sushi, Italian and Brazilian restaurants, a buffet, and small Mexican eateries. However, we were disappointed with the Mexican food as it didn't meet our high expectations as a local food. The Brazilian restaurant was the best, and the Italian restaurant came second. The overall dining experience was average at best, and we couldn't help but feel it fell short of our previous experiences. Several pools at the resort were not crowded, but the continuous music playing from morning to night was a constant presence. We had been dreaming of visiting Cancun for years, many others considering it a dream tourist attraction, but unfortunately, it didn't become our favorite place.

The following paragraphs are the Chinese version of the travel journal.

2/20 - 2/23：一个多星期前因为考虑到哥伦比亚政局动荡，我们在最后一刻取消了去哥伦比亚的计划，买票直接从哥斯达黎加打道回府，但我们俩并没有取消这次旅程的最后一个热点-墨西哥坎昆。从哥斯达黎加回到家第一时间就买了飞坎昆的机票。在家休整一周后，20号飞到坎昆。

我们通过好市多旅游预订了三晚的全包度假套餐。在坎昆机场等待了一个多小时后，我们被接送到温德姆至尊坎昆度假村和别墅。晚餐只能在度假村内的简单自助餐厅就餐，因为我们未能提前预订特色餐厅。

 第二天，海上有些小浪，但还算平静，海滩上小黄旗中参杂着些小红旗。我们下了海，体验了一下加勒比海水的暖，的确与前几周的太平洋海水有很大不同。后面几天变得大风大浪，海滩上一眼望去小红旗到处都是，没敢下水。在坎昆的几天没有任何特别的活动，原本想专门跟团去岛上看鸟也因为风浪太大，所有船都取消。

 每天早晨，我们在海滩边的餐厅里享用早餐，欣赏令人叹为观止的日出，沉浸在宁静的海滩美景中。吃完早餐后，去大街上走走，下午去海边给鹈鹕们照像。酒店包一日三餐和各种酒水。有日本寿司，意大利和巴西餐馆，自助餐，还有墨西哥小餐厅，但这次墨西哥菜是有生以来最难吃的。巴西餐馆最好，意大利餐馆其次，总的来说只能说是马马虎虎。酒店的几个游泳池人并不满，但音乐声从早到晚不停，也许喜欢爬梯的人很开心，我们俩却觉得有点吵。要来坎昆玩已经说好几年了，一个对好多人来说梦寐以求的旅游景点，可惜这不是我们的＂菜＂。

Costa Rica 哥斯达黎加 (2)

Feb 5: On the way to Manuel Antonio National Park, we stopped briefly by the beach along the road. We saw beautiful red Macaw, but what attracted us more was the small fish stall of the locals on the beach, cleaning the fish just caught from the sea, putting them in bags according to the size, and marking the price.

Lunch was seafood at a seaside restaurant, La Parcela, recommended by the host. The sea was on both sides of the restaurant, and the view was beautiful.

Around 3 pm, we arrived at the Hotel San Bada next to the national park entrance, and the town was full of traffic, like a lively tourist town. After settling in, the two of us went to the top-floor restaurant for a cup of coffee and watched the beautiful sunset. Soon attracted by a roar, several howler monkeys played in the trees beside the hotel. The sound was a little frightening. It was getting dark, and no photos could be taken.

Too full from the big lunch, our friends decided to skip the dinner, and two of us had a simple dinner at the Japanese restaurant on the hotel's rooftop in the evening, and the food was delicious.

Feb 6: After breakfast, we went to the beach first. In addition to being right next to the national park's entrance, the hotel was not too far from the beach. We did not dare to go into the sea at the beach with big waves. We just rented an umbrella and sat on the beach for a while. When the waves hit the beach, the water carries a lot of fine sand onto the beach, so the water is very muddy, and walking on the beach is not too comfortable.

Back at the hotel, we had lunch at one of the hotel's restaurants. Then we joined the tour group to Manuel Antonio National Park. We were supposed to buy tickets online with real names to get inside this national park. However, no tickets were available online, but local travel agencies had all the passes. So for us, the only way to get into the park was to join their tours. We bought our tickets through the receptionist at the hotel shortly after we arrived yesterday. The morning tours were all sold out, and we only got the day's last tour, starting at 1 pm. The park closed at 4 o'clock, so we only had two to three hours to explore. For each tour, about every ten tourists were accompanied by a tour guide who carried a high-powered telescope, and he stopped from time to time to show us animals through the telescope, which we could not see with the naked eye, such as spiders, bats, sloths, and more. The tour guide didn't give us much time, and often we rushed through the park. When we came to the beautiful beach in the park, we didn't even have the opportunity to get our feet wet, only time to take a few photos because the beach closed at 3 o'clock. Maybe we had seen too many animals in Panama and at Jim's house before, perhaps we had too high expectations for this national park, or maybe the park had too many guides with high-powered telescopes leading tourists like us. We felt that today's group tour was not impressive and worthwhile.

After walking in the park for 3 hours on a hot day, everyone was a little tired, so we returned to the hotel for a short rest and then to the Japanese restaurant on the top floor for dinner. In fact, outside the park gate, there are many restaurants near the hotel, but they only do the business of daytime tourists. After the park closes at 4 o'clock, most shops are closed, the lights are turned off, and the whole street is deserted at night.

Feb 7: Manuel Antonio National Park closed its doors on Tuesday, and of course, the town was deserted, and there were few tourists. Today we were heading for our next stop, La Fortuna. Along the way, we stopped at Esterillos Oeste beach near Jaco when the tide was low. The fine sand beach stretches far into the sea. The four of us leisurely strolled on the tranquil beach with only a few small empty boats parking there. It was a pleasant and peaceful experience. After leaving the beach, we stopped at a street vendor in Jaco Town, having an iced-cool fresh coconut for two dollars, which was very delicious. Lunch was at Amara in town, and then we headed to the Crocodile Bridge to see crocodiles. Two of us came here on a local crocodile tour last month during our cruise trip, but we did not stop at the bridge and went directly to the touring boat. We only saw a few small crocodiles in the river that day during the tour, and we were very disappointed then. Today we walked onto the bridge, looked down, and nearly twenty large crocodiles were lying there. The best part, it was free of charge; we didn't need to pay for any guided tour.

Before dark, we arrived at the Baldi Hotels Hot Spring Resort and were greeted with a refreshing cocktail. We dropped off our luggage in the room and went directly to soak in the hot springs at the resort. Over two dozen hot springs have different water temperatures on the resort campus. We would stay here for three days, and my friends joked about soaking in every one of the two dozen hot springs to get our money's worth. Dinner was a simple Pizza, salad, and shrimp fried rice at the hotel.

Feb 8: After breakfast at the hotel in the morning, we drove to the Arenal Volcano National Park, and there was a long line of cars waiting to enter the park at the entrance. In the park, we chose a slightly longer and more challenging hike. The trail was not steep, but it was very muddy. On the path, we saw the 400-year-old Ceiba trees, the only plants that survived the 1969 volcano eruption.

At the volcano observation point, the weather change on the top of the mountain is unpredictable; most of the time, the top is covered by clouds. We waited more than 30 minutes but did not see the Arenal peak. On the way back to the hotel, we went to a Korean restaurant and had bibimbap, which tasted good.

Back to the hotel, we went to the hot springs again, hopping from low temp hot springs to high temp ones to relax after strenuous hiking in the morning. In the evening, we went to a small restaurant, Marisquerias Snapper, in the town, recommended by a friend; we had fried whole fish, seafood soup, etc. The food tasted great, and the place was highly recommended.

Feb 9: Our plan today was to go to La Fortuna Waterfall, a private park owned by an American, a must-visit place in La Fortuna. Tickets are not cheap, but the park is very well-built. The waterfall accessed by climbing down 543 steps is indeed lovely and spectacular. It's easy to go down but hard to walk up. We were a little breathless, walking up from the bottom, and had to stop many times. At noon, we found a small restaurant next to the bus terminal in the town, where many locals ate. A simple plate of fried rice with shrimp and pork ribs was cheap and delicious.

After returning to the hotel for a short nap, we returned to the hot springs. Connie got so many bug bites in the last two days while at the hot springs she refused to go there anymore. In the evening, we returned to the town center and found a small café, Travesia, serving beef soup. In Costa Rica, we found their local beef/beef bone broth to be very delicious and similar to our Chinese beef soup but with a lot of potatoes, corn, and melons.

Feb 10: This morning, it had been raining heavily in Fortuna, and we were leaving for San José, the capital of Costa Rica. The 120-kilometer road took us more than four hours to drive by trying to avoid the highways with 700 numbers, which is very difficult to navigate as told, and it twists up and down very much. We were not sure that was a wise decision. We could better plan the trip to San Jose to see more places along the way. The roads we drove on were not easy, plus the road had a lot of potholes. One of us got motion sickness all the way. Along the way, we bought some local fresh strawberries from the small shop on the street, and these were the best strawberries with a strong flavor.

Before arriving in San José, we stopped by Alajuela, the third largest city in Costa Rica. We found our beloved beef/beef bone broth in their central market. Having a large bowl of beef soup and pork Tamale (pork corn dumplings) for lunch was very satisfying. The beef broth was thick and fragrant, and it was the best one so far. Tamales were also tastier than the ones in the United States. After lunch, we visited the Catholic Church and Square Park, then drove back to the rental center to return the car, and our first rental car abroad (not counting in Canada) ended successfully.

An Uber took us to our Airbnb rental. It was a three-bedroom unit with a kitchen, a living room, two bathrooms, and a work area. It was clean and spacious. After a short rest, we went to a Cantonese restaurant, Mulan, for dinner. We had eaten a lot of fresh seafood these days, so we ordered ground beef soup (West Lake beef soup in Chinese), fried noodles, two portions of green leafy vegetables, and a large pot of salted fish clay pot rice, which all tasted very good. We could not finish the steamed rice with salted fish and saved the rest for the next day.

Feb 11: We had a full day in San Jose today and no particular plans to visit any places. A fruit and vegetable wholesale market near our rented unit is open from 10 pm to 2 pm the next day. We went there early in the morning to buy fresh strawberries, pineapples, papayas, and watermelons. We also tried a cup of freshly squeezed sugarcane juice and coconut. Sugarcane juice is super sweet, and pineapple is also sweet, much better than those in the United States.

After breakfast, we strolled towards the city center and toured the central market with many snack bars. The downtown area filled up with many local pedestrians but few foreign tourists. Lunch was DIM SUM at a Chinese restaurant in the downtown area, then we returned to our Airbnb and went online to work on the immigration entry form for Colombia. Interestingly we couldn't find the United States in the list of countries, and we spent a lot of time searching on the Internet and finally found the reason. Even though the form is in English, the country listings are in Spanish. The Spanish language for the United States is Estados Unidos, while American or The United States is used elsewhere. We finally filled out and sent the form, but not all of us received the confirmation email. Without this confirmation letter, we couldn't get on the plane tomorrow. It often happens to too many tourists, as mentioned on the Internet. The four of us tried many different options, spent almost the whole afternoon completing the form to figure out what went wrong, and finally got confirmation from the authority. We checked in and were ready to go to our next destination, Columbia.

Dinner was the last night's leftover from the clay pot-cooked rice. While we were having a large bowl of watermelon and papaya after dinner, one of our friends received her daughter's text message about our visit to Colombia. The daughter said that her friend's family in Colombia had begun stockpiling goods for an upcoming country-wide demonstration. No one knows what would happen, but her Colombia friend suggested giving the trip a second thought. Before our trip, we had registered for the U.S. government's Smart Traveler Enrollment Program, STEP, and let the government know where we were going. After coming to Central America, we often received emails from the local U.S. Embassies about regional social developments. We were told there had been small-scale anti-government demonstrations in Colombia recently. Whether it is a good time to visit Colombia was often a topic for conversation after our dinner these days. According to the emails we received, country-wide pro-government and anti-government protests have been scheduled on February 14 and 15, when we would visit several major cities in Colombia, including their capital, Bogota. Going to Colombia was the highlight of our trip, but for safety, everyone agreed to change the plan, no more Colombia, and go home tomorrow instead. We immediately went online to buy the tickets to fly back to the U.S. We were all disappointed, but it's better to be safe than say sorry. We will give it another try next time.

 The following paragraphs are the Chinese version of the travel journal.

吃完早餐，正在装车准备离开，突然间来了一群松鼠猴，偷吃房东Jim 特地给它们准备的香蕉。在民宿住了三天，天天盼望着能在园子里看到小猴，可就是没出现，只在附近其它地方有看到各种𤠣子，而今天就在我们马上要离开时它们却突然出现了，太神奇，太幸运了。告别了房东，依依不舍地离开了森林中的木屋。

在开往Manuel Antonio 国家公园的路上，我们有在沿路的海滩边短暂停留，有看到漂亮的红鸟，但更吸引我们的是当地人小小的鱼摊，将刚刚旁边海里捕来的鱼清洗干净，按大小装在袋子里，标上价格，只可惜我们在赶路，只能看不能买。午餐是在房东推荐的一家海边餐厅吃的海鲜，风景很美，二边都是海。

下午三点左右到了就在国家公园入口处旁的旅馆，小镇上是车水马龙人丁兴旺，像是一个热闹的旅游镇。安顿好后我们俩上顶楼餐厅喝上一杯咖啡，看着美丽的夕阳西落。不久被一阵吼声所吸引，几只吼猴在旅馆边的树上玩耍，声音之大有些吓人，天暗了，没能拍到照片。

晚上还是在旅馆顶楼的日本餐厅吃了简单晚餐。

2/6: 早上早餐后，先去海滩看看。住的旅馆除了就在国家公园入口处的边上，另外还有条通道可以直接去海边，也算是一个优点了。来到海边，浪有点大，没敢下海只是租了把伞在海滩上坐了一会儿。海滩上的沙子非常细，海浪冲上海滩时水带着许多细沙，很浑浊有些像泥浆水，走在沙滩上感觉并不是那么舒服。

中午在旅馆的餐厅吃了午饭之后便跟旅游团去Manuel Antonio 国家公园。去这个国家公园需要在网上实名订票，但一票难求。可是当地旅行社都有进公园的门票，所以对我们来说，能走进公园的唯一办法是参加他们的旅游团。我们通过旅馆的前台帮我们订了今天下午的票。每十位游客有一位导游带着，他携带高倍望远镜，不时地停下来，用望远镜可以看到我们很难看到的动物，蜘蛛，蝙蝠，树懒(sloth)等等。也许是我们之前在巴拿马以及房东Jim家看到了太多动物，也许是我们之前对这个国家公园的期待值太高，也许是公园里到处是背着高倍望远镜的导游带领着像我们一样的游客，总觉得今天的跟团游性价比很低。因为我们没订到早晨的票，下午我们进公园时已经是1点多了，公园4点关门，所以导游没给我们太多时间，而是常常在赶路，等来到公园内漂亮的海滩时连湿脚的机会都没有，只有时间拍几张照片，因为海滩在3点就关闭了。期待很久的Manuel Antonio 国家公园游就这样匆匆地结束了。

大热天在公园里走了2～3个小时，大家都有点累，回旅馆休息一下晚上又上顶楼的日本餐厅吃饭。其实公园门外，旅馆附近有很多饭店，但是基本只做白天游客的生意，公园下车4点关门后，这些店也大都关门熄灯了，晚上整条街冷冷清清的。不想开车去远些的镇里，所以我们就图个方便在旅馆搞定晚餐。

 2/7: 周二Manuel Antonio 国家公园关门休息，当然整个镇也是冷冷清清的，游客稀少。今天我们又要前往下一站La Fortuna.

先在沿途海滩稍作停留，大概正是低潮的时候，细细的沙滩沿伸到很外面，走在上面有些软软的，有几个小船停在沙滩上。离开沙滩继续往前开，在Jaco小镇又停了一下，路过有卖新鲜冰椰子，二块美金一大个，很好喝。在镇里吃个午饭后又赶路，来到鳄鱼桥。上个月我们坐游轮时来过这里，当时参加了当地的一个看鳄鱼的团，有经过鳄鱼桥，但并没有在桥上停，而是直接去坐船在河里看。记得那天总共没见着几条鳄鱼，且都是非常小的，当时还特别失望。今天走到桥上往下看，近二十条大鳄鱼躺在那里。

在天黑之前，我们来到了Baldi 温泉度假酒店。放下行李，就先去温泉里泡一会儿。酒店里总共有大大小小二十几个不同温度的温泉。我们在这里住三天，朋友开玩笑说要把这二十几个温泉都泡一遍。晚饭就在酒店里吃了Pizza，色拉 和炒饭。

 2/8： 一早在酒店吃了早餐之后就赶紧来到Arenal火山国家公园，入口处进公园的车子已经排起长龙。进到公园后，我们选择了一条稍微长一点难一点的徒步路线。其实路并不陡，但非常泥泞，有时候无可避免地必须从泥浆中走过。在小路上，可以看到400年老的木棉树（Ceiba), 这几棵老树在1969年火山爆发中是唯一幸存下来的植物。

来到火山观望点，山顶的气候变化无常，绝大部分时间山顶都是被云遮住，我们等了三十多分钟还是没有完全云开雾散，没见到山顶的真容，有一点点扫兴。回酒店路上去一家韩国店吃了石锅饭，味道不错。

回到温泉酒店后又去泡温泉，从水温低的泡到水温高的温泉，缓解上午徒步的疲劳。晚上去镇上一家朋友推荐的小饭馆里吃了油炸全鱼，海鲜汤等。

 2/9: 今天的活动是去La Fortuna瀑布，是在一家私人公园内。门票不便宜，但是这里的必游之地。公园修建的很好，走543格楼梯才到瀑布底下，瀑布的确不错，也很壮观。下山容易上山难，五百多步从底部往上走还是有点气喘吁吁。中午在镇上找了一家汽车总站旁的小饭馆，有很多当地人在那里吃，生意兴隆。简简单单的一盘虾仁炒饭和排骨饭，便宜又好吃。

回到酒店睡了个午觉之后又去泡温泉。晚上再回到镇上找了一家有牛肉汤的小店。来哥斯达黎加后发现他们当地牛肉／牛骨汤特别好吃，和我们的骨头汤差不多，但加了不少玉米，瓜类。

 2/10: 今天Fortuna 早上下大雨，我们要离开这里前往哥斯达黎加的首都 - 圣何塞。120公里的路却开了4个多小时，还是避开700字头的公路。据说700字号的公路特别难开，上上下下弯弯曲曲得很厉害。但我们开的另一条公路也并不容易，再加上路上坑坑洼洼，有人一路晕车☹️😢😭。在沿途路边，我们买了些当地产的草莓，非常新鲜，草莓味道很浓。

在到达圣何塞之前我们先顺路去了附近的另一个城市 - Alajuela, 哥斯达黎加第三大城市。看了一下他们的中央市场，在那里又找到了我们深爱的牛肉／牛骨汤。一大碗牛肉汤再加猪肉Tamale（猪肉玉米粽子）下肚，很满足。牛肉汤又浓又香是吃到现在最好的。玉米粽也比美国的好吃。接着去了天主教堂和广场公园走一下，然后就开车来到租车中心把租的车还了，我们第一次在国外租车（加拿大不算）的经历也算到此结束。接下来的行程又会以出租车/Uber为主。

叫了Uber来到我们租住的民宿，三房一厅二卫还有个工作区，又干净又宽敞，很舒适。稍微休息一下后晚上去了一家广东人开的餐馆。这几天海鲜吃多了，今晚换换口味，要了西湖羹，炒面，二份绿叶蔬菜和一大锅咸鱼煲饭，味道很不错的。那一大沙锅的煲饭估计二顿都吃不完。

2/11: 我们今天在圣何塞有一整天的时间，也没有特别的计划去参观什么地方。在我们住的民宿附近有水果蔬菜批发市场，晚上十点开到第二天的下午二点。我们一早就去买了些草莓，菠萝，木瓜和西瓜。在那里喝了一杯新鲜的甘蔗汁和椰子汁。甘蔗汁超甜，菠萝也很甜，比在美国喝的要好得多。

早餐后，我们就慢慢地走去市中心，在中央市场里转了一大圈，有许多家小吃店，看上去不错，但我们没在那里尝试。市中心路上当地行人不少但外来游客寥寥无几。

中午在一家中餐馆里吃早茶后，回到民宿，上网想把哥伦比亚的入境表填了，但就是在国家列表里找不到美国，花不少时间上网搜索，最终找到了原因。即使表格是英文版，其中一个国家列表是西语。美国的西语是Estados Unidos, 而在表格上其它地方却用American 或者是The United States。好不容易填好表格送出，但就是不见确认邮件。没有这份确认信明天上不了飞机，网上查了半天据说这事常发生😭。四人整整花了一个下午总算才把进境表格这事搞定。办好明天的航班登机手续，一切就绪， 明天出发去哥伦比亚。

晚餐是吃昨晚剩下的煲仔饭。饭后吃着一大盆西瓜和木瓜时，朋友的女儿送来了个短信对我们去哥伦比亚有点担心，告诉我们她朋友在哥伦比亚的家人都已经开始囤积货物，没人知道情况会如何发展，建议我们再考虑一下行程。实际上，是否这时候该去哥伦比亚也是我们这几天饭后的话题。来中美州之前，我们注册了美国政府的STEP program，把要去的地方告诉政府。来中美州后，时常会收到当地美国使馆关于当地社会动态的邮件。我们被告知最近这几天哥伦比亚常有小规模护政府和反政府示威游行，接下来的一周各个城市都分别安排了游行。据说在二月十四和十五日会举行全国性亲政府和反政府的示威游行，而这一周我们正好在哥伦比亚的几个大城市里。去哥伦比亚是我们这次行程的热点，但是为了安全，大家讨论之后决定打道回府，马上买机票明天飞回美国。来日方长，我们还会去哥国的。

Costa Rica 哥斯达黎加 (1)-Osa Peninsula

The custom process in Costa Rica is also quick and convenient, not as complicated as it is discussed online. The border station in Costa Rica is a hundred meters away from the Panama border station, and it is easy to find. We don't need to fill out any form or pay any fee to enter the country. They asked for information about the hotel we would stay in Costa Rica and the booked tickets to leave Costa Rica. They then stamped our passports, and the process took about a few minutes for the four of us. It was a big relief for us since we had prepared for more complicated procedures and difficult situations arising. We would say that going through the land custom is faster and more convenient than at the airport.

The Alamo rental place is nearby, another 100 meters from the customs station. The staff at the station was English-speaking and accommodating, even waiving the fee for adding an additional driver. The Toyota RAV4 we got was new, only over 2,000 kilometers. After signing all the necessary documents, we took the car and happily drove away. The highway is also well-maintained. At noon, we had lunch at a local café, Soda Samuel. Soda means a small café in Costa Rica. We had no idea what to order. We saw the locals all having some kind of big bowl of soup and a bowl of rice, so we ordered the same. The beef bone soup, Olla de Carne, was delicious. People in Costa Rica seem to eat more rice than we do. We also stopped at a supermarket, Maxi Pali, to get bottled water and fruit. Having a car makes travel more flexible and convenient.

Our destination is the Osa Peninsula in the Puntarenas Province of southwestern Costa Rica, with the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Golfo Dulce to the east. The peninsula is home to at least half of all species living in Costa Rica. The villa we booked through booking.com is in a remote village called Palo Seco. The Costa Rica-Panama border is on the east side of the Golfo Dulce. We had to drive north and around the Golfo Dulce to get there. The town is out of populated areas, and Google Maps doesn't even show the direction. The host wanted to meet us at the interception near the highway, but we managed to get to the booked villa, Casa Ranas, based on the host's direction at 2:30 pm. The two-story house features a beautiful garden, a lounge, and a terrace on 32 -acres next to Corcovado Nation Park. Another reason for us to book this house was that it has a wildlife photography tower. The owner is an Englishman who loves wildlife photography. He was accommodating and responsive. He had communicated with us many times before the trip to ensure that we would find his place without trouble and provided us with some tips, like WAZE and Google not working for his place.

We spent the afternoon on the property and relaxed a little bit. The supper was homemade tomato egg soup and green leaves. At night, the host took us to look for red-eyed frogs in his garden. We heard their calling but couldn't find them; we found other frogs, lizards, and spiders.

Feb 3: Early in the morning, we woke up to the sound of birds. We took so many pictures in the garden. Our original plan was to go to Corcovado National Park, a very eco-friendly place with 2.5% of the world's biodiversity. Most of the peninsula is a national park, and every visitor to visit the park was required to be accompanied by a local guide or join a tour to enter the park. The park entrances were far away from where we stayed. Jim, the host, recommended we go to Matapalo at the peninsula's tip, near Puerto Jimenez, instead. He thought going to the national park with lots of off-road driving would be inconvenient. We followed his advice and headed out to Port Jimenez.

When we were just out of the rented house and passed Palo Seco, we saw a lot of squirrel monkeys jumping up and down on the trees on the roadside. It excited us, and we parked the car and kept taking pictures until they left.

Puerto Jimenez is the largest town on the peninsula, but there is not much to see, so we headed straight to Matapalo Beach. Neither WAZE nor Google could give us a good direction. We just drove on the paved road until it reached a reasonably well-built dirt and gravel road. The gravel road has a beautiful view of the calm Golfo Dulce on the left and cattle and horses on the other. After a while, the dirt road turned into a bumpy, rough road in the woods, with the resorts and retreat emerging in the forest. Thankfully we rented a four-wheel drive car and could drive slowly towards the beach, but the car ride was so bumpy that within a few minutes, one of us got terrible motion sickness, so we turned around and looked for a beach nearby. We got off at Pan Dulce Beach.

"Pan Dulce Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in Costa Rica, located on the Golfo Dulce side. The beach is known for its pristine white sand, crystal-clear waters, and lush tropical vegetation." - From ChatGPT. On the beach, we silently watched the spectacle of pelicans rushing into the sea repeatedly to catch the fish. On the contrary, a local person was standing in the water casting net many times without catching a single fish when we were there. The big birds must be thinking about how unskillful this guy is.

After spending some time on the beach, we returned to Puerto Jimenez for lunch. We ate at Marisqueria Corcovado Seafood restaurant by the sea and enjoyed watching birds flying and boats sailing while eating. After lunch, we bought a watermelon and papaya from a roadside fruit stall for ten dollars, which we thought was expensive. Since we arrived in Costa Rica yesterday, it has become clear that food here are more expensive than in Panama. Our host agreed that the price in Osa was twice that of Panama and the rest of Costa Rica.

On the way back to the villa, we stopped by Finca Kobo Chocolate Farm/Inn to buy some raw chocolate. The place has a fantastic garden and offers a chocolate tour on the premise.

Feb 4: At five o'clock in the morning, Chenggang went to Jim's garage-converted cabin for an early morning coffee while the three ladies were still sleeping. Jim would live in the cabin alone when the big house was rented out. After coffee, Jim took Chenggang to the garden belonging to an old American lady for a photo shoot. On the way there, he talked about his life story. Jim's father, a biologist working for the United Nations, traveled a lot and lived all over the world with his family. Jim returned to the U.K. at 12 and traveled the world as an adult because of his work. He has visited more than 80 countries around the world, including China. Jim doesn't consider England his hometown. He looked for places he liked to live and picked Costa Rica as his new place due to his love of wildlife photography. He is turning this 24-acre property into a wildlife photography paradise. Interestingly, Costa Rica is not his home country either, and he goes back to England every year to be a substitute teacher for Geology for a few months, not for money, but to keep himself as a part of the U.K., as he said.

The American Lady's Garden is on an east-facing hillside with a spectacular panoramic view of the calm Golfo Dulce. We arrived just in time for the beautiful sunrise and enjoyed nature. At this time, a group of scarlet macaws flew in, and we kept taking pictures. The primary purpose of our visit there this time was to take photos of hummingbirds, but unfortunately, there are few hummingbirds, but Jim did manage to capture a rare hummingbird. Because Jim had also arranged another activity for all four of us, we hurried back to the villa.

After breakfast, Jim did another activity with Chenggang. He took Chenggang up to his 8-meter-high self-built photography tower, and under his safety protection, Chenggang slowly climbed to the top of the tower, stayed on it for a while to take a few photos, and then came down. His legs were a little shaky.

Then it was time for the group activity. Jim took the four of us to the reconstructed primary forest in his backyard. We hiked up and down in the woods, wearing the tall boots he specially prepared for the tenants (to prevent poisonous snakes) and listening to him explaining some basic knowledge of biology and plants. We could feel his passion and love for the wildlife. Along the way, Jim retrieved the cameras he put into the forest the day before yesterday. Throughout the morning, Jim spent much of his time with us, which he didn't have to, and we were very grateful.

At noon we invited Jim to join us for lunch at a small local restaurant nearby called Soda Leila. The Leila didn't have the menu, but fortunately, Jim knew the place very well and knew what to order, and we just followed him. The lunch was great, very local, and decent. After lunch, we went to the supermarket to buy some fruit and pizza and then went to the Finca Kobo Chocolate Farm/Inn again for coffee. Not only can you buy 100% pure cocoa powder, but there is also a gorgeous garden where we saw many different species of beautiful birds and were lucky enough to see two different types of monkeys jumping among trees for a while. It was exhilarating and enriching for us.

A solar-powered satellite service in the village provided the WiFi at Jim's place. After the dark, the WiFi didn't seem to work. It was inconvenient in this digitally connected world, but it gave us more time to immerse in nature and enjoy it.

Feb 5: We got up early and walked around the garden. Chenggang took a chair and sat quietly in the garden, watching many beautiful birds flying around the forest. He was so emotional when Jim, the thoughtful host, saw him sitting there alone and brought him cup of hot coffee. We didn't know Jim before and simply rented his house for three days in a foreign country. During our stay, knowing that we loved to travel and take photos, he provided us with countless extra help and left us with unforgettable memories.

Today we are going to our next stop, Manuel Antonio National Park. After breakfast, when we were loading the car and preparing to leave, a group of squirrel monkeys came and stole bananas designed for them by Jim. We had hoped to see those little monkeys in the garden for the last three days, but they didn't appear. Today they suddenly appeared just as we were about to leave, and we felt so lucky. Saying goodbye to Jim, we reluctantly left the beautiful wooden house in the forest.

The following paragraphs are the Chinese version of the travel journal.

进哥斯达黎加也很方便，没像网上说的那么复杂。边境站离巴拿马边境站没几步路，很容易找，也不用填表交过关税，只要看一下我们在哥斯达黎加旅馆的信息以及我们离开哥斯达黎加的机票，然后在护照盖了章就算过境了。

租车点就在附近，我们订的丰田RAV4，车基本上是新的，只开了二千公里，工作人员也特别热心。这是我们第一次在美国外租车。拿了车高高兴兴上路，他们的高超公路也修的不错。有车还是很方便，半路上我们在一家当地小饭店，喝了一碗牛肉汤，还吃了Taco。牛肉汤很好喝，好像每一位顾客都在喝汤加上一碗白米饭，这里人不比中国人少吃饭。顺路再去超市买些水果和蔬菜。

下午二点半到了我们预定的民宿，主人是一位英国人，喜欢摄影，特别热心。晚上他带着我们找红眼青青蛙，但没找到，明后天再试试。

2/3： 一早被各种鸟声吵醒。今天原来准备去Corcovado 国家公园，是环境保护很好的地方，它具有世界上2.5%生物多样性。整个半岛绝大数区域都是国家公园，每位游客进公园都需要当地导游陪同或者参加旅游团。但公园的入口非常远。我们民宿的主人建议我们去在半岛尖点的Matapalo. 他认为去国家公园实在太不方便了，会很累。我们按他的建议上路去Jimenez 港。

刚出我们租的民宿，就在路边的树上看到不少松鼠猴，在树林里跳跃，上上下下，使我们激动不已，太幸运了。

Jimenez 是半岛上最大的小镇，但没什么可看的，我们就直奔Matapalo，去Matapalo 海滩的路连谷歌都没法告诉怎么走，我们看着地图觉得还可以走。一会儿就从水泥路上了修得还算不错的土石路，一路景色优美，左边是平静的海湾，另一边是牛马牧场。再过一会儿，我们转入更为简单的石路，幸好我们租了四轮驱动的车，觉得慢慢地开车到海滩应该是没什么问题，但车上下左右颠簸太厉害，没几分钟我们就有点晕车了，转头就在附近找个海滩看看。在海滩上，默默地看着鹈鹕们一次次冲入海中觅食的奇景，而一位当地人站在水里撒网半天也没抓到一条鱼，大鸟们一定在想这位傻哥不知干啥呢。

从海滩回到Jimenez 小镇，找了家海边的海鲜饭店边吃边欣赏海景。又在路边水果摊买了个西瓜和一个木瓜，十块美金。自昨天来到哥斯达黎加之后就明显感觉到这里的物价要比巴拿马贵。回民宿与主人聊起，他说的确如此，物价是巴拿马的一倍。

民宿的WiFi 是用太阳能的，太阳落山后就没信号了，也让我们有更多时间去听鸟，找鸟🐦🦜🦤。

2/4：热心的民宿主人Jim是一位来自英国的大学老师及业余摄影师。早晨五点，Chenggang先去Jim用车库改装的小木屋喝咖啡，平时如果大房子租岀去的话他就自己住小木屋。咖啡之后他便带着Chenggang去一位美国老太的花园里照相。Jim的父亲是一位为联合国工作的生物学家，小时候随父亲到处为家，他在12岁才回到英国, 成年后由于自己工作关系也是满世界跑。从小到大足迹遍布世界各地八十几个国家包括中国。对他来说英国𣎴是他的故乡。他寻找他喜欢的地方，由于他爱好野生动物的摄影，就搬到了哥斯达黎加。准备把这24公亩的家园变成野生动物摄影的天堂。有趣的是哥斯达黎加也不是他的家，每年他回去做几个月的替代老师，不全为的是钱，而是为了使得自己仍然是英国的一部分。

美国老太的花园位于朝东的山坡上，远望平静的海湾和冉冉升起的旭日，我们陶醉于大自然中。这时一群猩红金刚鹦鹉飞来，我们俩照不停，他的是专业的。我们这次去那里的主要目的是照飞鸟，可惜的是飞鸟没几个，但Jim照到一个很少见的飞鸟。因为接下来还有他为我们大家安排的节目，我们就匆匆赶回住所。

吃完早餐后，他带我上他8米高的自建摄影塔，在他安全保护下，我慢慢地爬上塔，在上面待了一会儿照几张照片后我们就下来了。然后他又带着我们四人去他后园里的重建森林和原始森林走走，穿着他特地为房客准备的高筒靴子（以防毒蛇），高一脚低一脚地走在森林里，听他给我们讲解一些生物和植物基本常识，还顺便把他前天放在森林里的相机取回。整整一个上午Jim自告奋勇地做了我们的私人向导，我们心存感激。中午我们邀请他和我们一起去附近当地一家小餐厅吃午饭。

之后我们先去超市买了点水果和Pizza，然后来到Jim推荐的他家附近的一家专做巧克力tour的小旅店喝咖啡。那里不仅可以买到100%的纯可可粉，还有着非常漂亮的花园，我们在那里看到了许多不同品种漂亮的鸟，还很幸运的看到了二种不同的猴子，让我们兴奋不已。这一天收获非常大。

 2/5：早早起床，在园子里转转，Chenggang一个人拿了把椅子坐在那里，静静地观看着各种各样漂亮的鸟在林中飞来飞去，好心的房东给他送来一杯热腾腾咖啡，好感动。我们和他素不相识，在异国它乡租了他的主楼三天，因为知道我们喜欢旅游和照相，他为我们提供无数的额外帮助，给我们留下令人难忘的记忆。今天我们要离开这里前往下一站Manuel Antonio National Park.

吃完早餐，正在装车准备离开，突然间来了一群松鼠猴，偷吃房东Jim 特地给它们准备的香蕉。在民宿住了三天，天天盼望着能在园子里看到小猴，可就是没出现，只在附近其它地方有看到各种𤠣子，而今天就在我们马上要离开时它们却突然出现了，太神奇，太幸运了。告别了房东，依依不舍地离开了森林中的木屋。

Panama (2)-Boquete

Jan 30: Our next destination is Boquete, Panama, a resort town and a hot spot for American retirees. It was 300 miles driving distance away from Panama City. We had researched the options to get there before the trip, but none of them provided us any confidence with detailed information. For example, the Rome2rio app gives out a few options, from the city bus to the luxury bus, for $9 to $50. There isn't any reliable information on bus companies' websites either. Some of the companies only have Instagram or Facebook accounts with old information. Since it was our first time taking a long-distance bus in the country, we were a little nervous about it. So, we woke up early. After breakfast at the hotel, we headed out to the Panama City Bus Terminal, where all buses in and out of Panama City stop and depart, and next to the largest shopping mall in the Americas. There was no direct bus to Boquete, only via the town of David, 30 minute drive from Boquete. The bus terminal has many ticket windows arranged according to the destinations. The window for David has a short line, and there were no other options to choose from except one bus to David operated by the DP, leaving the terminal a few times a day. From the waiting room to the bus outside, we needed to use the local bus card (costing about $0.1), which we didn't have, to open the gate. A guy saw us stuck in front of the entrance and used his card to open the gate for us. We paid him $1 for the four of us, and he made a small profit. We don't understand why they can't just add the entrance fee to the bus ticket.

The bus was a double-deck bus with a toilet on the back. We sat on the second deck with the large windows. The passengers got on and off occasionally, and at some stops, people got on the bus to sell twist dough, gold necklaces, etc. We had no clue what they were saying, and they were not aggressive in selling their stuff. Near the destination, the immigration police boarded the bus to check passports, and a dog sniffed at the luggage storage. The bus ride to David was comfortable, and we stopped halfway for a lunch break. Time passed fast; we arrived at David at 5 pm after the 8-hour ride. Instead of taking another bus to Boquete, we negotiated a $30 taxi ride. Since we all had luggage, we checked the car first to ensure enough room for the bags before we agreed on the deal. We stayed at the Bambuda Castle up the hill, an hour away from David. This castle hostel is famous in the local area. We stayed in the tower room with the bathroom on the ground floor and a tiny bedroom on the second floor while our friends were in the cabin room. In the tower room, the stairs up are narrow spiral stairs typically seen in the Castle. It was cool but not very convenient, just for the castle experience.

The Castle is beautiful, nestled in lush hills in Boquete but far from the town center. There were no restaurants or cafes in the surrounding area except the dining service in the Castle. Since we skipped lunch and were a little hungry, we just picked a menu card from the counter to order the food. The items on the menu were minimal, so we ordered chicken wings and something else. The chicken pieces were not very good, and we didn't finish them. We all complained about the limited menu for dinner; then, we suddenly saw someone had the pizza. By then, we realized we had missed the other menu card.

 Jan 31: We had a simple breakfast in the open-air dining hall with 180-degree dreamy views across coffee plantations to the green hills of Volcan Baru. We sipped coffee and watched little clouds moving over the mountains, like in paradise. We had booked an adventure tour of suspension bridge walking and Zipline this afternoon. The meeting point was at the tour operator's office in the town. We walked down the hill to enjoy the view of the countryside for 45 mins. Boquete is a small tourist town with many restaurants and gift shops. We wandered around to find a place to have a quick lunch. We settled in a small café on a small street hidden away from the main road. We had typical American fast food, chicken fingers, and pulled pork, but they were comfortable.

Both the walking tour and zipline tour are in Tree Trek Boquete Adventure Park, which is a short driving distance away from the town center. All tourists boarded their truck-modified tour bus. After we arrived at the park, we were separated into two groups, walking and Zipline. We feared high, so we picked the suspension bridge walking, and our friends went on a Zipline adventure.

The $30 suspension bridge walking tour covers 3 miles and six suspension bridges, with the highest point of 6,000 feet above sea level. Tree Trek suspension bridges range from 70 to 135 meters long and reach heights 10 to 75 meters above the ground. Along the way, the local guide introduced us to some unique local flowers and plants in their natural habitat. The two major differences between the cloud forest and the rainforest are that the cloud forest has no mosquitoes and higher oxygen. Hiking in the cloud forest is more pleasant than in the rainforest. We enjoyed hiking for three hours in the forest and walking across six suspension bridges with stunning views of rivers, waterfalls, and Baru Volcano.

After the tour, we called a Taxi to take us to the Boquete sign on the edge of the town. While taking pictures in front of the Boquete sign, we noticed more than 20 coatis in the parking lot nearby. It was a little scary and uncomfortable. We took the same Taxi back to the town. For dinner, we went to The Fish House, a small but cozy place with most customers who were Americans. The food was delicious, and we raised the cups and bottles to celebrate our good day of adventure. After dinner, we wandered the market by the river before returning to the Castle.

 Feb 1: Today is another beautiful day. As the morning's sun beamed into the window of our tower room, we were ready for another day of adventure. We could see a hotel staff watering grasses from our windows on the top of the beautiful Garden Bungalow covered. Boquete is much more comfortable with low humidity and fresh air than Panama City.

Today's adventure was hiking in the area. After doing a lot of homework, we chose the trail of The Lost Waterfalls among other trails to see the three waterfalls. We called a taxi to take us to the trailhead, and the driver also agreed that he would come back to pick us up in three hours. After the suspension bridge, it took less than 10 minutes up the hill until we saw a cluster of cabins. The entrance fee to the park was $10. A girl at a shed collected $10 for each person, and we also checked in on their notebook.

The trail led us through fantastic jungle scenes. With an average slope of seven hundred feet per mile, hiking up on the muddy path with frequent silt and tall steps was challenging for us. Fortunately, wooden guardrails were in the steep part of the trail to help a little. Despite the challenge, we were immersed in adventure mode in hanging vines, luscious trees, and large leaves in the cloud forest. We arrived at the first waterfall after we trekked the muddy paths. The waterfall was massive and breathtaking. After taking a few pictures, we were on the trail to Waterfall number two. We were a little tired, and the trail from Waterfall One to Waterfall Two was more difficult; getting to the second waterfall needed more encouragement and persuasion.

The second waterfall had a small pool where people could swim. By then, going to see Waterfall Three was out of the question, and we ran out of time and energy. On the way down, we bypassed Waterfall One and hurried back to the trailhead. Our taxi driver picked us up on time and dropped us in the town center. After lunch at Butcher Chophouse, we returned to our Castle to rest. Chenggang felt sick with a high fever. Fortunately, the COVID test was negative. He believed he had stomach flu after having two pieces of the bad tasted chicken wing. Tomorrow we are embarking on a new journey.

 Feb 2: Today, we did something we had never done before, dragging suitcases and carrying backpacks to enter another country. In the morning, our reserved Taxi picked us up at the hotel and dropped us off at the Panamanian border. We were stamped and fingerprinted at the border post on the Panama side and walked out of Panama to Costa Rica. You can go in and out of the border at will, and no one cares. But if you do not go through the border properly, you may have trouble later if you leave the country from elsewhere.

Now we were in a new country and started another adventure.

1/30: 今天早早起床，吃完早餐之后，就赶去巴拿马城公交车总站，所有进出巴拿马城的公交车都会在这里停靠和发车，车站旁边是美洲最大的购物中心。我们要坐大巴直穿巴拿马到达Boquete，一个度假小镇，也是美国退休人员喜欢的地方。在这之前，因为没有直达公交，做了不少功课，但对于怎么走还是很不确定，毕竟第一次在中美洲乘坐长途汽车，而且这还是我们最长的长途汽车。来到公交车总站，许许多多的卖票𥦬口按终点站排列很清楚，根本不用选。我们的长途大巴是那种二层带厕所的，很舒服。前前后后坐了8个小时，行驶450公里，中间时常有乘客上下，也有人上车卖麻花，金项链等等，我们反正也听不懂他们在说什么。在接近终点站时，移民局警察上车查护照和查行李。

坐了8个小时的长途客车到了大卫（David)城后，没再转公交车，而是直接找了个出租车送我们来到一个小时外的度假小镇Boquete在山坡上的旅馆。这个城堡旅馆在当地很有名，我们选择了城堡房，底层是厕所，楼上是卧室, 上楼的楼梯是那种狭窄螺旋的，很酷但还是不太方便，也算是一种体验吧。

1/31: 昨晚到城堡时天已黑，今天早上起来发现我们住的房间从外面看还是蛮漂亮的。今天我们俩参加吊桥徒步游，一共走了3英里，最高点是海拔6千尺。在云林里徒步三个小时，走过六个吊桥，很享受。沿途导游介绍了一些当地独特的花和植物，云林和雨林二大区别是云林没蚊子和高氧。我们的朋友俩去参加了高空索道，一共十二索道，很刺激。

2/1: 今天又是一个好天气，清晨从房间窗户看外面，那一个个别致的草顶房很有意思，这些也是这个城堡旅馆的特色客房。比起巴拿马城来说，这里舒服多了，湿度低，空气清新。做了不少功课，又问了前台，我们选择了被遗忘的瀑布这条登山路线（The lost waterfalls), 看三个瀑布大约需要三，四个小时。我们叫了出租车把我们送到登山路口，并且说好三个小时后来接我们。登山门票每人$10，不便宜，反正只有外国人会付这个钱去爬山。这条登山路线不容易，比我们预想的难。平均每英里七百英尺的坡度，而且时常有淤泥，台阶又高，现在还是这里的干燥季节，不可想像雨季会怎么样。幸好这条路坡度大的地方有木栏杆稍微帮些忙。我们三小时内只去看了二个瀑布，一是没时间了，二是上去看第三个瀑布的路更难。到了第二瀑布我们就匆匆往回赶，我们出租车司机准时来接我们。

爬完山大家都有点累，在城里吃完午饭后就回到我们的城堡休息。明天我们要开始新的旅程。

今天（2/2）我们做了一件从未做过的事，拖着行李箱，背着双肩包出关进关。上午出租车把我们送到巴拿马边境，边境站里盖了章和按了指印，就算出了巴拿马来到哥斯达黎加的领地。其实边境我们可以随便进进出出，没人管。但如果不按规定盖章按指印的话，之后想要从其它地方出境的话就会有麻烦。

新的国家新的旅程。

Panama (1)-Panama City 巴拿马市

Jan 26: The ship docked at seven this morning, and we disembarked after a quick breakfast at the Garden Café.

Colon is on the Caribbean Sea side of Panama City and is about 50 miles from Panama. There are several options to get to Panama City from Colon. The best option was the direct train, but the service was suspended due to the pandemic. Our cruise offers the airport transfer for $100 per person but not to the downtown area where we stay, which is still far from the airport. Another option is to take a taxi to Panama City, which costs $200+ for booking online. The cheapest option is to take an hour and a half bus ride, but we must walk 20 minutes from the Colon cruise terminal to the Colon bus station or by Taxi. The town of Colon is said to be unsafe; walking with luggage on the street is not recommended.

To us, the best option is to take Uber. While the ship docked at Colon, we tried to schedule an Uber ride, but no cars were available. Not sure what exactly we would do, we decided to get off the ship first and figured the thing out later. As soon as we stepped on the pier, we were surrounded by a mob of people selling taxi services to us, and the price was sky-high. Ignoring them, we continued to look for Uber ourselves. We saw a couple standing next to us who seemed to be waiting for a car, so we chatted with them. It turned out that they had already called Uber successfully and immediately offered to share their Uber with us after learning that we also wanted to go to Panama City. What a kindness. We happily accepted their offer. Chatting with the Canadian couple along the way to the city was fun. One hour Uber ride went fast, and we arrived at the hotel smoothly. We were very grateful for their kindness, so we offered to pay 2/3 of the $60 total Uber cost as our way of saying thank you. The world is full of good people willing to help each other.

Our room was not ready when we arrived at the hotel around 10 am. So we stored our luggage in the office and explored the city. We walked straight toward the Gulf of Panama. Along the shore is a beautiful waterfront pathway called the Ciclovia Cinta Costera, which has a panoramic view of the Gulf of Panama and the skyline of Panama City designed for biking, walking, and running. The modern Cinta Costera area gave us an excellent first impression of the city. We walked to the Panama Fish Market under the scorching sun. The market has two sections, one for selling fresh seafood and the other for seafood restaurants. Both areas were very clean and organized. Picking one restaurant to sit down from so many restaurants in the area was challenging for us. We like deep-fried whole fish, and with that in mind, we found one reasonably priced restaurant. We had deep-fried whole fish, grilled octopus, and a cup of ceviche. All dishes come with a green salad and deep-fried plantains or rice. All of them tasted very fresh and delicious.

After lunch, we walked to the old Chinatown nearby. Although a traditional Chinatown arch existed, there were almost no true Chinese stores. The place was run-down with poorly maintained buildings. We didn't stay there for very long. Tired of strolling under the hot sun, we needed a coffee break. Surprisingly, we couldn't find any decent coffee café along the path back to the hotel, even with Google Maps Search help. Ultimately, we went to a bakery café just across from our hotel with two lattes and an Empanada. They were pricy, as we expected, but the coffee and empanada didn't meet our standards.

In the evening, we went to a local restaurant near our hotel, Concolon Street Food Cafe, with a Central America vibe. We had paella with green rice, fried bread, and a "glutinous rice" triangle. We didn't know green rice was popular in Central America. All dishes were one of the best on this trip. During the dinner, a couple walked to our table to ask if we were on the NCL Jewel Cruise. The husband said he talked to one of us a few days ago. Of course, we remembered it. What a small world.

Jan 27: Two friends from Philadelphia arrived last night to join us on our trip to Latin America. Early this morning, our friends went separately to the Miraflores Visit Center outside Panama City since we already went through the Panama Canal. We visited the highly-rated Biomuseo, a museum focused on the natural history of Panama. We learned that Panama's isthmus was raised above the water to form a land bridge 3 million years ago, starting the Great American Interchange, with a significant impact on the ecology of the Western Hemisphere. During the Great America Interchange, animals and humans immigrated from south to north and vice versa. Located on the Amador Causeway in Panama City, Panama, the museum's architectural design is unique and beautiful. There are many visitors, primarily passengers on cruise ships, and the cruise ship terminal is nearby. We took an Uber at the cost of $4 to get there.

After seeing the Biology Museum, we slowly strolled along the Amador Causeway toward Flamenco Island. The west of the causeway is the mouth of the canal, with the Bridge of Americans in the backdrop. The entire area was the former US military base used to defend the canal operation. The causeway is very well built, and the scenery on both sides is incredible, but it was tough to walk without shadow for an hour on a humid and hot sunny day. Our friends arrived at Flamenco Island before we did, and a delicious seafood lunch awaited us at Sirena Seafood Restaurant.

After lunch, the four of us walked back on the causeway for a while and then called Uber to take us back to the hotel for a short rest. Uber and taxis in Panama City are convenient and very cheap, about $3-$5 in the city. We sometimes checked the Uber price first; then, if Uber were unavailable, we would wave down the Taxi to ask if they would match the price. The chance was about 50%/50%.

As our friends took a break in the hotel, we went out to find a coffee shop. We did not want to return to the same bakery café across from our hotel; instead, we had a cup of Coffee and French Palmier Cookies at the coffee shops we spotted yesterday. The coffee was from a cheap coffee machine and wasn't good. We were not surprised since it was cheap. For dinner, we went to the Golden Unicorn Chinese restaurant hidden on the fourth floor of the Evergreen Building. We ordered lobster, steamed fish, four other dishes, and soup, which tasted good. We hadn't eaten such delicious Chinese food for a long time.

Jan 28: Today, we went to Casco Viejo (the old town), built in 1673, after the completed destruction of Panama Viejo (the old Panama City) by pirates. The old town was isolated by sea and more defensible than the previous one. The town later became the canal construction headquarter for finance, management, and engineering. Ruined by corruption and drug trafficking under dictators in the last century, the area was only rebuilt in the nineties and became a UNESCO site. Today, this old town is a collection of elegant, beautiful, and prosperous French, Spanish and American architecture, making it a must-see when visiting Panama. We joined a free walking tour for over two hours and learned much about Panama from the tour guide. It is a free tour, but the guide expects everyone to pay the tip. Panama is the second country in Central America to disband the military besides Costa Rica, which we learned from this trip.

After completing the tour in the old town, we took an Uber to the Lung Fung Chinese restaurant for DIM SUM. The dishes were excellent. Then we took another Uber to Panama Viejo, the first European settlement on the Pacific coast, which was the capital of Panama at that time before Casco Viejo. But the city's location was not easy to defend and often attacked by pirates. In 1671, the Englishman Morgan destroyed the entire capital with a group of pirates, after which the locals moved the capital city to the current old town (Casco Viejo), where the unique terrain was easier to defend. Unbeknownst to Morgan, Britain, and Spain had signed the Treaty of Madrid, which ended hostilities between the two countries. He was arrested for violating the treaty and sent back to London, but the British welcomed him with a heroic ceremony. Morgan was released because he proved he didn't know the treaty. The site has an excellent museum of Panama's history and is also on the World Heritage List. We found Panama Viejo was more interesting historically than Casco Viejo. The Casco Viejo was a little more commercial and had too many tourists.

Our tour guide recommended we go to Panaviera Sky Bar on the JW Marriott's 66th floor, the highest rooftop bar in Central America. The bar has a stylish lounge next to the fantastic infinity pool. We got breathtaking panoramic views over the ocean and Panama City from there. As the sun set, we sipped Mango Margaritas and small snack bites and enjoyed the scene of the sunset over Panama City.

While our friends decided to skip dinner, we went to a nearby Spanish restaurant, Casa Alejandro. The menu was Spanish, and they didn't speak English, so we ordered two dishes without knowing too much about what we ordered from the menu. Both dishes turned out to be prawns, but the taste was quite good.

 Jan 29: We went to the Metropolitan Natural Park in the heart of Panama City in the morning. It was the only refuge for a wildlife preserve and the tropical forest in the city. After paying the entrance fee, they gave you a wristband to put on. There are five trails to choose from. We took the Monkey Trail to the top of Cerro Cedro for panoramic views of Panama City and the Canal. We hiked for two hours over 2.6 miles. To our surprise, over the 2.6-mile trail, we saw a lot of wildlife, including mother and daughter sloths, white-nose coati, white face monkeys, turtles, deer, and trogons. We highly recommend the place to visit and hike.

After the hike, we took a Taxi to a Hongkong-style café called Hong Kong Bakery and Café and had delicious Dim Sum. Then we returned to the hotel for a short break.

We went to the seaside again in the afternoon. This time, we walked along the Ciclovia Cinta Costera to Mirador Paitilla Park, where more high-rise condos are opposite the fish market. It seemed not much scenery beyond the point, so we called an Uber back to Casco Viejo to visit a few sights we didn't have time to see yesterday. There was heavy traffic in the old town in the afternoon. Probably 5 minutes ride in the normal traffic became 30 minutes. We felt terrible for the driver and gave him an extra tip to compensate for the waiting time. In the town, we had fresh coconuts for $2.5 a piece. The price was slightly higher than Costa Rica's, but the size was much larger.

In the evening, we went to another Chinese restaurant for dinner. Just in time to see the local Zhu family Spring Festival party, the gongs, and drums were noisy, and the lion dance was lively. It is said that 90+% of the Chinese in Panama are from Guangdong, and 90+% are from Huadu, Guangzhou. Our Philadelphia friends were originally from Guangzhou and jokingly said they celebrated the Spring Festival with their fellow villagers.

Since we left Shanghai, we can't remember having that many Chinese cuisines in just four short days outside the home. We will leave Panama City tomorrow to begin our rainforest/cloud forest journey.

1/26: 昨天过运河后，终点站Colon码头就在附近，但游轮却不停靠码头，而是把船开到外面的加勒比海兜了一大圈，碰上大风大浪，船晃得厉害，把我们折腾了一晚。今天早上七点靠岸，吃完早餐之后我们就下了船。

Colon码头离我们要去的巴拿马城大概50英里左右。我们对怎么从Colon到巴拿马城一直找不到确定的方案。最方便的直达火车因为疫情而停运了。如今最便宜的是坐一个半小时的公交车但需要从Colon船码头到Colon大巴车站走二十分钟，据说Colon不是很安全, 都不建议在路上走，可以找出租车从码头到大巴车站。还有个选择是坐出租车去巴拿马城，网上订车要$200+。游轮也提供回城服务，但只能直接送去巴拿马飞机场，离我们住的市中心旅馆有点距离。最后我们决定下船后看情况再说。一出码头，被拉出租车生意的人团团围住，大开天价。不理他们，我们自己找Uber但是暂时无车。这时正好看到旁边一对夫妇好像也在等车，就和他们搭讪。他们已叫了Uber，听说我们也去巴拿马城，主动说可以与我们拼车，只要$30，真是天上掉下来个大馅饼🤪。一路上与这对加拿大来的老外聊天很开心，一小时后很顺利地到了旅馆。世界上热心的好人真不少。

到旅馆时才早上十点左右，房间还没有准备好，我们先注册，寄存行李，然后便沿着海边走到海鲜市场要了炸全鱼，烤章鱼和酸橘汁腌鱼（ceviche)，非常好吃😋。 晚上去了一家当地餐厅，很不错，第一次吃上绿色米饭打底的海鲜饭，油饼和＂糯米”角也很好。在饭店还碰到了另一对从我们游轮下来的乘客， 世界真小。

1/27: 昨晚从费城来的两位朋友来到巴拿马城加入我们中南美州之旅。今天一早她们俩去运河中心参观，我们则去了巴拿马生物博物馆。博物馆的建筑设计有点特色，里面的展馆一般，但因为巴拿马城游轮码头就在附近， 参观的人不少，大多是游轮上的乘客。

看完生物馆后，我们就沿着阿马多尔堤道慢慢地向Flamenco 岛走去，堤道西边是运河进出口，美国大桥，这整个区域以前是美国军事基地，为运河的运行防卫。堤道建得相当好，两旁风景很美，但在又湿又热的大太阳下走了一小时真的不容易，有点累。想着之前在船上每天吃那么多，腰围长一圈，现在该是甩膘的时候了。汗流浃背地走到Flamenco岛上，朋友已到，一顿美味的海鲜午餐等着我们。

饭后我们四人在堤道上往回走了一段，便叫车回旅馆小休一会儿。这里Uber和Taxi又方便又便宜，在市内大约$3-$5就够了。

回旅馆后我们俩又出去找了一家咖啡店喝咖啡，咖啡不怎么样，蝴蝶酥还可以。

好友对饮食很在行，总能找到好地方。晚饭去了一家中餐馆，要了龙虾，蒸鱼等四菜一汤，味道不错，我们俩好久没吃这么好吃的中餐了。光忙着吃没拍晚餐的照片，只能借朋友的照片用一下。

今天（1/28号）我们去了巴拿马老城区(Casco Viejo), 建于1673年，后来成为运河建造的财政，管理，工程的大本营。上个世纪在独裁者统治下，腐败和贩毒使得这里破败不堪，一直到九十年代才开始重建，后来成为世界遣址。如今这老城区聚集着法国，西班牙和美国式的建筑，优雅美丽，人丁兴旺，是来巴拿马的必游之地。我们参加徙步游，导游带我们走了二个多小时，一路侃侃而谈， 我们学了不少东西，也知道了巴拿马的军队在独裁者下台后被解散，如今只有警察而没有军队。

走完老城区后又来到几公里外的巴拿马遗址(Panama Viejo),是太平洋岸边的第一欧州人定居点，当时是巴拿马首都。但是那地方地势不利，常常受到海盗的抢劫骚扰，在1671年，英国人摩根带着一帮海盗把整个首都摧毁了，之后当地人把首都搬到了现在老城区的地方，那里独特的地势更容易防守。摩根全然不知当时英国和西班牙已签署了互不侵犯的协议，为此他被捕送回伦敦，但是英国人以英雄仪式欢迎他的到来。遗址也是在世界遗产名录中。

参观完了旧巴拿马后，来到了万豪酒店的66层酒吧，喝着芒果马提尼酒，俯瞰巴拿马城全景，欣赏夕阳西落的美景。

白天在参观二个旧城区之间去了一家中餐馆吃午茶，下午又在万豪观景台吃喝，朋友俩决定跳过晚餐。我们俩还是去了附近一家西班牙餐厅，菜单是西语，他们又不会说英语，我们就稀里糊涂地点两个菜，结果两个菜都是大虾，但是味道是相当好。

1/29:上午去城市自然公园, 徒步2.6英里，在那里待了二个小时，看到不少野生动物，包括树懒母女，长鼻浣熊，吼猴，乌龟，鹿和咬鹃等。

中午再次品尝巴拿马的午茶点心，不比美国的差。饭后回旅馆小休。下午来到海边散步后，再次来到巴拿马老城区，把昨天没看过的景点补上。又看到有新鲜椰子卖，$2.5 一个，价格比之前在哥斯达里加的稍稍上去了一点，但尺寸大很多。晚上又去了另一家中餐馆吃饭，正好碰上当地朱氏家族春节联欢会，锣鼓喧天，热闹非凡。据说巴拿巴90+%华人来自广东，而广东人中90+%是广州花都人。与我们同行的二位费城朋友都来自广州，开玩笑地说与同乡一起欢庆春节了。

自从离开上海后，不记得几天内连上这么多中餐馆😜。明天我们就要离开巴拿马城，开始我们热带雨林/云林的旅程。

12 Day Panama Canal Cruise 十二天巴拿马运河邮轮游

Jan 13: We started our trip to Central/South America a day earlier. A while ago, there was constant news of flight cancellations and delays due to the weather and computer system failures. Especially two days ago, the FAA flight system failed, causing all flights nationwide to be temporarily suspended for a couple of hours. It made us feel nervous about flying on the day of boarding a cruise and worrying about missing the cruise; we decided to fly to San Diego a day earlier. Upon arriving at San Diego airport, as usual, we were going to call Uber or Lyft, but it turned out that the city bus stop was right outside the terminal building. So we took the bus, a 10-minute quick ride to the hotel near the historic district - Gaslamp Quarter. Dropped off the luggage, we headed straight to the seaside. We had a couple of tacos at the pier first, then boarded a local tourist boat for an hour bay cruise, whose tickets were included in the destination fee our hotel collected from us. The tour guide on the boat was quite good, and he provided a lot of information about the bay. We really enjoyed the tour. Disembarked, we walked to the historic Gaslamp Quarter and were disappointed that the place was deserted and almost empty in the afternoon. After a simple dinner at the hotel, we returned to the Gaslamp district in the evening. However, this time it was much different; the streets were full of restaurant patrons and bargoers, but it was still not as lively as expected on a Friday night.

Jan 14: We signed up for our cruise embarking time at noon and had the whole morning to spare. After breakfast, we went to the Italian neighborhood just in time for the weekend market and saw some snacks we had not seen before. The line at the pozole booth was long, so we decided to give it a try. We had a cup of hot pork pozole, a Mexican pork soup that tasted great and was perfect for a cold day. After returning to the hotel and picking up our luggage, we boarded the NCL Jewel cruise ship. We officially began the first leg of our trip to Central/South America, a 12-day San Diego to Panama Canal cruise.

Our room was not ready when we boarded the ship. So with our suitcase in hand, we went directly to the Garden Café for a buffet lunch. Around 1:30 pm, the PA announced that the rooms were ready. Our room was a good size cabin with a balcony, and it was in a perfect location. At 4 pm, the ship slowly left the Port of San Diego in heavy rain. As we stood out on the balcony to watch the skyline of San Diego Bay disappearing in the low cloud, we felt very lucky to tour the bay area under the decent weather yesterday.

We had our first dinner at the Chin Chin Asia restaurant, which was really disappointing. Among all the food we ordered, the Kung Pao chicken was the worst. It came with clear-cut chicken cubes mixed with a little vegetable and sauce, and it was the worst Kung Pao Chicken we have ever had. We were unsure if we would return to the restaurant during the rest of the cruise. We didn’t finish the dishes, so we still had room for more food and went up to the Garden Café for the second dinner, a piece of delicious Prime Rib.

Jan 16: After leaving San Diego in the late afternoon on the 14th, our ship headed south and spent the whole day yesterday at sea. This morning we arrived at the first port of call, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. The sky was clear, and the temperature was around 70F. We just visited this place a little over a year ago on another cruise trip. Without any special activities planned, we just walked along Medano Beach for four hours. At noon, we had some tacos from a Taco Bar at a hotel by the beach and enjoyed some people-watching. We wandered around the marina area looking for a coffee shop but couldn’t find one we liked, so we walked further away from the tourist area. We found a local coffee shop offering a decent Latte for $2.5 and good WiFi, and it was half the price we paid on the ship. Tonight, we went to see the magic show.

Jan 17: The Jewel left Cabo San Lucas last evening and arrived at Port Vallarta at noon today. We were lucky to see whales accompanying us this morning. It was our second time to visit Port Vallarta. More than a year ago, when we visited this beautiful city, we didn’t join any organized tour; instead, we explored the town by ourselves, taking the local buses and Uber. The city gave us a good impression. This time we signed up for a tour from the ship to explore more than just the new town area. First, the tour bus took us to the city center, the city hall, and the church. The city hall was crowded not just because of tourists like us, but many local people were waiting in line to pay the property tax. They get a 10% discount if they pay in January. Mexico also has a senior discount for property tax, and Mexican legal residents or citizens 60 years or older pay only 50% of their property tax. We wish the US had a similar policy.

Then the bus took us to a jewelry store in the old town, a tourist trap that provides a bathroom facility and free drinks. Visiting a ceramic tile factory across the street was much more enjoyable. The workers hand-painted each tile before firing them. The store sells different types of ceramic products. The bus finally took us to an old tequila winery passing through a village outside the city. The distillery is no longer used for production but focuses on tourist services. The owner’s son gave a short presentation and showed us a few old pieces of equipment for the distillation process. There were a few blue agave plants in the garden. It was not the typical brew/winery tour we had before. The tour's highlight was to taste their tequilas, a total of six different kinds, from cheap to expensive ones. Watching fellow passengers drink shot after shot and finish all six shots in no time, the two of us felt a little embarrassed because we did not even finish half a shot combined, definitely saving some tequilas for the winery. The primary purpose of the tour is to sell their Tequilas, and the free Tequila shots did the trick. Within the tourist complex, they also serve tacos—each chicken or pork taco with a freshly handmade tortilla sold for $2. We had a couple of them, which looked simple but very tasty, and we think they were better than those in the United States.

After the tour, we were back on the ship. We went to the main dining restaurant for dinner. The food tonight was delicious. There were not too many people in the restaurant tonight; probably because the ship had a late departure time, many people were still hanging out on the shore.

Jan 19: It took another sea day from Port Vallarta to reach the next port. Our ship docked early in Acapulco, Mexico, a new coast city to us. We started the day on our own and first visited the local church and the town square. It was early morning, and the people had just started setting up the booths in the square; not much to see. Then we walked along the beautiful seaside. We stopped by, watching a local fisherman beginning to fire up a charcoal stove on the edge of the shore wall for a while. He heated the pan directly over the fire and added some oil and garlic. Then he deep-fried fresh mahi-mahi fish eggs. The smell was good, and the taste must be delicious, but we did not dare try it.

Acapulco is another tourist resort town but less popular than Cabo San Lucas and Port Vallarta. We recently watched an Acapulco seaside cliff diving episode called Human Playground on a Netflix show, and a comedy show from Apple TV+. We joined the tour in the afternoon, and the highlight of this tour was seeing a diving show, which lived up to its name. Eight divers climbed the cliff and dived into the water below. The show lasted about 15 mins.

The tour's final stop was the Fort of San Diego, built by the Spanish Empire and one of the most important Spanish fortifications along the Pacific coast. Unfortunately, the Acapulco Historical Museum was closed under restoration. We just wandered around in the fort courtyard under the scorching sun, and we could not bear the heat anymore and returned to the ship. We hope the weather will be cooler as we travel to the south in the next few weeks.

Jan 21: Yesterday was another sea day. The wind and waves were very calm in the morning. The only ripples you could see were caused by our ship's sailing. The sea was so beautiful and looked like a painting. After taking a few cruises, long and short, this was the first time we saw such a calm sea. From time to time, Sea turtles could be seen floating in the calm water.

Done with Mexico ports, we headed to the largest Port in Guatemala, Puerto Quetzal, today. We arrived early this morning, and it was one of the smallest cruise ship terminals we've ever visited. The terminal only had a souvenir market for tourists but nothing else. Most passengers from the ship headed out to the ancient city of Antigua - the old capital of Guatemala. We took a tour called “Antigua on your own.” As the name indicated, the tour company only provided roundtrip transportation to Antigua. The bus ride to Antigua took 90 minutes. It was a scenic ride. Along the way, sometime, we could see coffee farms, massive sugar cane fields, and the Volcano De Fuego erupting every 15-20 minutes. Unfortunately, we were sitting on the wrong side of the bus and didn't have a good picture of the erupting volcano.

Antigua was an ancient city consisting of many old buildings and cobblestone streets. There were a lot of tourists visiting the town. After we arrived, we first went to the Hill of the Cross across the city to the far north end. The ongoing construction was on the spot, but it has an unobstructed view of Antigua and Volcano Agua. The area is free of charge, but a guy with a firefight uniform asked for a $2 donation on the path, which we did. On the way down to the town center, we walked through the quiet neighborhood, and the local houses were very distinctive, which we liked very much, and we thought we could stay there overnight or two. The main tourist attraction in Antigua is Santa Catalina Arch. Tourists and local vendors filled the area. We took some pictures and moved on.

We stopped by a couple of churches and ancient ruins, and then it was time to find a place to have some decent Guatemalan food. We went to Rincon Tipico, highly recommended by the Lonely Planet tour book we bought before the trip. The small restaurant was in the courtyard with simple bench tables. The chicken and potato were cooked over coals. Ordering food in non-English speaking places is always a challenge for us. Their menu on the wall was in Spanish with pictures. We had one chicken plate with potato and another chicken dish with a bowl of soup; all were very delicious. After lunch, we hit two more tourist spots before returning to our bus at 1 pm. We only had four hours to spare, and it was definitely not enough time to explore the area.

After another 90 minutes bus ride, we returned to the pier and spent some time at the market. We had fresh coconut water, local beer, and Guatemala Coffee, an excellent and happy ending to our very short Guatemala visit.

Jan 22: We were supposed to go to Nicaragua today. Probably for some safety reasons, We were informed that the Port of call to Nicaragua had been canceled when we boarded the ship in San Diego, and it was changed to another sea day. As usual, we went to deck 11 Garden Cafe for breakfast around 7:30 am and walked around the ship on deck 7. Typically, we would walk 8000 to 10,000 steps in the morning on a sea day. Last few days, some sea wildlife always accompanied our ship to make our walking routine more enjoyable. Today we had no exception. Seabirds accompanied us along the way, bringing much happiness to the boring sea travel. We brought our Sony Camera and took many photos.

Today was also the Chinese New Year, Spring Festival. The ship was slightly decorated, and every time we entered a restaurant or cafe, the staff would say "gong xi fa cai" to us. This is a rabbit year, so the food sculptures of rabbits, made of watermelon, fruits, veggies, etc., were everywhere. We broke our promise not to return to the Chin Chin Asia restaurant. We thought having a Chinese New Year dinner at the Chinese Restaurant would be appropriate to celebrate our holiday, even if the food would not meet our expectations. They didn't serve any unique dishes for the holiday. The food this time seemed to be a little better than the first time we had tried it; of course, we stayed away from that chicken dish.

Jan 23: We arrived early this morning at Puntarenas, Costa Rica. We had signed up for a crocodile river tour with the cruise. We waited in the theater for a while to go on the tour until we realized something was wrong after 30 minutes passing the scheduled time. We talked to the short excursion staff in the theater and were told that the original half-day tour was canceled. We didn't receive any cancellation notification and were a bit disappointed. We went ashore to book a local tour that cost us half what we would pay for the cruise tour. Eight of the passengers from the cruise were packed into a van. The first stop was a private property near the main highway to see the monkeys. A group of white face monkeys lives in the area. You pay $3 per person to feed the monkey with crackers. When you held the crackers in your hand, the monkey jumped to your head to take them from you and eat them. It was fun, and we took a few nice pictures with monkeys on our shoulders. Most time, after eating the food, they would get off us. But one of the monkeys jumped on one of us and stayed on her head for a while. It was a hilarious experience.

Our next stop was The Original Crocodile River Tour. We boarded a boat down the Rio Grande de Tárcoles, home to approximately 2,000 crocodiles. Surprisingly we only saw one motionless giant crocodile and several small ones. We saw several types of birds and black monkeys in the trees. Then we made a short stop at another private property to see Macaws. The tour was not exceptional, but it was okay. Today, we just got the first taste of Pura Vida in Costa Rica. Next month we will come back for ten more days.

After returning to the ship for a short rest in the afternoon, we got off again and walked around the pier. We walked along the beach to the lighthouse and watched the locals playing soccer and relaxing on the beach as the sun set on the horizon. The Ticas must enjoy their simple life. Before boarding the ship, we couldn't resist another fresh coconut. The last time in Guatemala was $1; today, it was $2 in Costa Rica.

Jan 25: Yesterday was the last full sea day before the Panama Canal, and we were lucky to see the stingrays jumping out of the water. We took pictures using the 70-300 mm lens, but it wasn't long enough to get a clear picture. We felt so lucky to see different sea creatures every day for four days at sea and spent hours watching them each day.

Passing the Panama Canal is always on our bucket list. We had wanted to do this for a while. We found this one-way cruise to take us through the Panama Canal and start our Central/South America trip. Today is the canal crossing day. Crossing the Panama Canal consists of three locks and three bridges from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea. Our ship was scheduled starting at 6 am and ending around 4 pm, for about ten hours. We got up early before dawn, and went to the bow on deck 8 about 15 minutes before 6 am. Based on the schedule, the ship would pass under the Bridge of the Americas, completed in 1962 at the cost of $20 million from the United States of America, around 6 am. The bow area on deck 8, which was closed to the public during the cruise, was supposed to be opened to the public during canal passing. When we arrived on the 8th floor, People were lined up to wait for the bow area to open. We hesitated to go elsewhere because we were afraid of missing seeing the bridge, so we patiently waited in line. The bow area was finally opened after 6 am, but we indeed missed the bridge. The Bridge of Americas was already far away when we entered the bow area. Very disappointed.

There were several places on the ship to watch the Panama Canal passing. We just went up and down to find the best position to see the canal passing and to take pictures. One of us even sits under the flag pole to have the best view and enable her to take photos without reflection from the glass shield. In the middle of the day, it became hot and humid. So we mostly stayed inside the view lounge in the afternoon. We also saw our sister ship the NCL Joy cruise ship in the middle of the lake of the canal, which we were on that ship three months ago, and the Joy happened to cross the canal in the opposite direction. What a small world!

After crossing the canal, our final destination, Colon, was nearby, but the cruise ship was not scheduled to dock tonight. Instead, the ship sailed to the Caribbean Sea for a big loop. There was nothing to see since it was getting dark. In the meantime, the vessel encountered strong winds and waves, which made us seasick. Passing the Panama Canal today meant that our 12-day cruise was ending, and tomorrow we would disembark and start our independent trip.

1/13: 提前一天开始了我们的中南美州之旅。前一阵子不断有飞机航班取消和延误的新闻，而前二天全美国飞行系统出故障造成所有飞机短暂停运后，让我们觉得有必要避免上船当天坐飞机，临时决定改机票提前一天来到圣地亚哥。顺利到达圣地亚哥机场后，原准备叫Uber 或Lyft, 结果发现市区公交车很方便又便宜，且车站就在停机楼门外。坐着公交车十分钟便来到历史小区-油灯区附近的酒店。放下行李之后直奔海边，先吃上几个Taco垫底后，就上了当地的海湾游船在海湾里转了一个小时。船上的讲解员蛮不错的，嘴没停过。下了船后走去油灯区，有点失望，冷冷清清几乎没人。晚上在酒店里吃上简单的晚餐之后又再次去油灯区走走，比下午稍好些， 虽然满街都是饭店和酒吧又是周五晚上，但还是没有想像中那么热闹。

1/14: 中午才上游轮，早上还有几个小时可以转悠。早餐后我们先去意大利小区转了一圈，正赶上周末集市，看到一些以前没见过的小吃，在那里喝了一杯墨西哥的猪肉汤，味道很不错。回酒店拿了行李之后我们便登上NCL Jewel游轮，正式开启我们中南美洲行的第一段－十二天圣地亚哥至巴拿马游。傍晚游船在大雨中慢慢地驶离圣地亚哥港。

上船后第一晚就去了船上一家中餐馆，实在太失望。尤其是要的宫保鸡丁从来没吃过这么差的，估计不会再去了。试了西式餐厅，味道还可以。

 1/16: 我们的船自14号晚上离开圣地亚哥之后，一路南下，今天（16号）早上来到第一站墨西哥的Cabo San Lucas。晴空万里，气温在70F左右。一年多前刚来过这里，今天故地重游。我们没有什么特别活动，沿着海滩走了三，四个小时，中午就在海滩边一家酒店的Taco Bar每人两个Taco, 味道不错。回船前，还去了一家当地的咖啡店，一是用一下WiFi，二是喝杯咖啡休息一下，$2.5一杯拿铁味道相当不错，价格也不错，是船上的一半。今天天气好、玩得很轻松，晚上会去看一下魔术表演。

 1/17: 昨天晚上离开Cabo San Lucas, 今天（一月十七日）中午来到Vallarta港。今天早上很幸运，在海上不时有鲸鱼陪伴我们。一年多前我们也来过Vallarta 港，很漂亮。当初我们俩是自由行，坐了公交车，也坐了Uber。这次我们参加了龙舌兰酒庄游，先把我们带去市中心，市政府楼和教堂，然后就去老城区的珠宝店，陶瓷店和皮革店，最后来到旧酒庄，那里好像已不再用于生产了，而是专做旅游服务了。介绍了龙舌兰酒生产过程，请大家品味六种不同的龙舌兰酒，每人总共喝六杯。看着别人一小杯一小杯喝，我们俩加一起也没喝到半小杯，真是便宜了酒庄😜。洒庄里还有卖Taco。酒后在那里每人要了个Taco, 有鸡肉和猪肉，饼是手工现做的，$2一个。这几天在外面天天吃Taco，看着很简单，但觉得就是比美国的好吃。回到船上已是晚餐的时间，晚餐很不错，蛮合我们胃口。今晚的餐厅人不太多，估计因为船离开得晚，好多人还在岸上晃悠。

 1/19: 经过又一天的海上航行，今天一早停靠墨西哥阿卡普尔科(Acapulco), 上午上岸后先自由行看了一下当地教堂，又沿海边走了一段。看到当地的渔民在水边直接烧火煎鱼子，先在生鱼子上撒些盐，然后是热油，大蒜🧄，鱼子下锅直接煎，非常馋人，味道肯定不错，但没敢尝试一下。Acapulco 是一个旅游度假城市，最近在Netflix秀Human Playground 中看到海边悬崖峭壁跳水的一集，所以这次来此的亮点就是去看跳水表演，名符其实值得一看。今天烈日当空，外面转了几个小时，就有点受不了，不知下面几星期继续往南走，天气会是怎么样。

 1/21: 昨天在海上航行一天。上午风平浪静，只有我们船开过时海面才泛起阵阵涟漪，很美，看着像画。坐了不少游轮，好像还是第一次看到如此平静的大海，时而可以看到海龟们在海上漂游。

今天一早来到瓜地马拉最大的港口，也是我们到过的最小游轮码头之一。码头上只有一个为游客开的市场，周围其它一点东西都没有。几乎所有游客都参团去了安地瓜古城－旧首都。有不少古建筑，当地的民居也很有特色，整个小城很漂亮，就是游客多一点，玩的时间也不够，以后有机会该在那里住上二，三天。从码头到安地瓜开车一个半小时，一路上可以看到火山喷发的白烟，咖啡农庄，甘蔗田等。在城里转了一圈后，在一家小店里吃上当地的午餐，还不错。在码头边，喝上新鲜的椰子水，当地的啤酒和瓜地马拉咖啡,也算是给瓜地马拉游划上一个美好的句号。

 1/23: 昨天应该去尼加拉瓜的，可能是因为安全原因，上船后被告知取消了停靠那里而改成又一天海上航行。一路上有海鸟们陪伴着我们，给平淡的海上行带来不少快乐，拍了不少照片。昨天春节，船上也稍稍布置一下，每次进餐厅工作人员会对我们说恭禧发财，也算有点气氛了。

今天一早来到了哥斯达黎加的Puntarenas, 原本订半日游被取消了，也没通知我们，有点失望。我们自己上岸找了一个当地的半日游，带我们去看了小猴子，鳄鱼，各种🦜等，结果还是很完美的。今天算是先来哥斯达黎加探探路，下个月我们还会回来自由行。下午回船稍做休息后又下船，在码头附近走一圈，新鲜椰子汁肯定少不了的，上次在瓜地马拉$1一个，今天在哥斯达里加$2一个。

 1/25: 昨天是到巴拿马运河前的最后一整天海上航行，很幸运，除了鲸鱼，海豚，鸟之类的，又看到了新动物－黄貂鱼(sting ray)，还是第一次看见黄貂鱼跳出水面。四天海上航行，每天有不同动物陪伴着我们，我们时常会花上几个小时在甲板上或者阳台上捕捉它们的身影。

坐游轮过巴拿马运河是我们最向往的旅游项目之一。今天终于迎来这一天。一早天没亮就起床，上串下跳的找最佳位置看及拍照。过运河一共过三个船闸，穿过三座大桥，早上六点开始到下午四点从太平洋来到加勒比海，整整十个小时。今天还碰巧了与我们三个月前刚坐过的NCL Joy游轮在运河中间的湖中相遇，Joy正好是反方向过运河。今天过巴拿马运河意味着我们这次12天游轮即将结束，明天就要下船了，开始我们的自由行。