Arctic Circle Train&Narvik 北极圈列车

June 9: The Arctic Circle Train connects Stockholm in Sweden and Narvik in Norway; the journey takes about twenty hours. The most convenient option for the Arctic Circle Train would have been a direct overnight train from Stockholm to Narvik by VY Nattag 94. However, for some reason, VY Nattag 94 was not running during the last few days. So we had to take the two-segment trains, Nattag 92 and 96, instead.

We boarded our train, VY Natag 92, which connects Stockholm in Sweden and Boden in Sweden, in Stockholm last night. This morning, we were roused from our sleep by the gentle swaying of the train. This train appeared to lack an automatic balancing mechanism, causing it to tilt slightly with every turn, resulting in swaying. Despite this, we managed to get some decent rest, possibly due to our weariness from the past few days' activities. It is a scenic train journey that takes travelers along the Gulf of Bothnia in the Baltic Sea and through dense forests and pristine lakes to reach Boden, Sweden. After the twelve-hour journey, we arrived in Boden a little after ten in the morning. There, we switched to another train, VY Nattag 96, traveling seven and a half hours to Narvik, Norway, the second segment of the Arctic Circle Train.

After boarding the VY Nattag 96 train in Boden, the landscape on both sides of the railway began to change into Arctic Circle scenery. The towering pine trees and green grass disappeared, replaced by slender white birch trees and brown tundra. In the last couple of hours, as it was winding through the northern parts of Sweden and Norway near the Arctic Circle, the train ride offered stunning views of the Arctic wilderness, including snow-capped mountains, pristine lakes, and unique flora and fauna.

This 250-mile railway is also known as the Iron Ore Line since it was built to transport iron ore from mines in Sweden to the ice-free port of Narvik for export. The railroad was once an engineering marvel for high-quality construction and design. The downhill train from the mines to Narvik only used 20% of the electricity it generated and used the rest to return the empty train to the mines. The transportation of iron ore occurred virtually cost-free, as the system ingeniously recycled its generated energy, eliminating the need to pay for additional fuel and electricity.

We arrived in Narvik at 5:30 pm, checked into the hotel, dropped off our luggage, and immediately ventured out to find something to eat. In the meantime, we tried to find the bus station and buy the bus tickets for the next day. We searched online to determine how to purchase the bus tickets and got some confusing information. We downloaded two apps from the bus company, one for live schedule and one for ticket purchase. There should be two buses to Tromso tomorrow based on the bus schedule. Using the app, we could purchase the general tickets only, not reserved for seats, and the tickets would expire after six hours. We felt the bus company just didn't want anyone to buy the tickets in advance. The bus station was conveniently located outside the largest shopping mall in the town, so we walked to the mall and the bus station. There was no ticket office, and only 3 ~ 4 bus schedules were posted on the board, but none showed Tromso as the destination. We got confused and frustrated. At this point, there was nothing we could do about it.

We continued our search for a good restaurant and settled in a Fish restaurant next to the fish market hall. After we had ordered the food, Chenggang realized that today's bus from Tromso would arrive in Narvik soon. Why didn't we ask the bus driver about tomorrow's schedule? Chenggang quickly left for the bus terminal, which was only a few minutes' walking distance. When he got to the station, the bus just arrived. He talked to the driver and confirmed the bus for Tromso would leave Narvik at the time based on the online schedule. What a relief!

Our food was ready just a few minutes after Chenggang returned from the bus terminal. Then the waiter came to our table to apologize for giving us the wrong fish dish. We didn't want to waste the food, so we told him it was okay and that we would take the wrong plate. These were all freshly made fish dishes anyway, and they tasted delicious. Ultimately, they only charged us 50% of the total bill due to one of the dishes was wrong. We were very delighted with their food and service.

After dinner, we took a leisurely stroll along the bay, enjoying the picturesque Arctic midnight sun.

June 10: - Latitude 68.45 degree (Narvik): Today, we started our day with breakfast at the hotel. The small town of Narvik does not have many hotel options, and we picked one based on the review and location. Contrary to the not-so-good reputation of Quality Inn's breakfast in the United States, we were pleasantly surprised by the complimentary breakfast here, which was abundant and far better than the expensive $20+ breakfasts we had at hotels in Sweden a few days ago. Moreover, knowing that most guests were heading on long journeys, the hotel offered a great deal – lunch-to-go for just $7. We couldn't resist this opportunity and made two delicious sandwiches to enjoy later during our travels. After the meal, we set out for a leisurely walk around the town, soaking in the serene life of this small Nordic city—the charm of the surroundings and the peaceful atmosphere added to the joy of our morning.

In the afternoon, just a little past 1 pm, we boarded a double-decker bus bound for Tromso, Norway, the largest city within the Arctic Circle. The bus driver recalled his conversation with Chenggang last night and warmly welcomed us. Surprisingly, only a few passengers were on the bus, allowing us to secure seats in the front row of the upper deck, providing us with an astonishing 180-degree panoramic view of the surroundings. The 4.5-hour journey passed swiftly, and the scenery was breathtaking, making this bus ride the most beautiful and comfortable one we've experienced. After taking buses in foreign countries a few times, we realized that bus travel should be seriously considered more often in future trips. The convenience, comfort, and opportunity to appreciate the incredible sights along the way are unparalleled, and it has certainly added a delightful dimension to our travel experiences.

Upon our arrival in Tromso, we wasted no time and headed straight to a nearby supermarket to stock up on groceries, as our hotel here was equipped with a kitchen. While in Sweden and Norway, we noticed a lack of vegetables, especially the Asian leafy greens we're accustomed to having. Therefore, we picked up some fresh green salads, meat, and fruits to create a satisfying dinner for tonight.

After enjoying our meal, we decided to stroll around the neighborhood to get acquainted with the area and its surroundings, preparing for a deeper exploration tomorrow.

6/9: 从瑞典的斯德哥尔摩到挪威的Narvik铁路线也称为北极圈列车线，行程近二十小时。最方便的是坐直达过夜火车。但不知什么原因，直达车这几天都没开，我们就只能订需要转一次的火车。

昨晚从斯德哥尔摩上的火车。大概火车没有自动平衡机制，每次转弯，火车就有点倾斜，觉得有点摇晃，不过睡得还可以，可能是因为前几天玩得有点累了。十二个小时很快就过去了，上午十点多就到达瑞典的Boden, 在那里换乘另一列火车前往挪威的Narvik, 大约需要七个半小时。

在Boden上车后，铁路两边开始变成北极圈的地貌，高大的松树和绿色的野草消失了，替代的是细小的白桦树和棕色的苔原。在最后一，二个小时，路边的风景非常优美。这段二百五十英里的铁路线也被称为铁矿石线，曾经是工程技术上的奇迹。

下午五点半到达挪威的Narvik, 入住旅馆放下行李，马上出去找吃的。晚饭后漫步在海湾边，享受着风景如画的北极白夜。

6/10: 北纬68.45度（Narvik)

今天在旅馆用早餐。小镇旅馆选择不多，我们看评分和旅馆位置选了一家。虽然品质客栈(quality inn)的早餐在美国名声不是很好，但这里的免费早餐却大不相同，比前几天在瑞典的酒店花了每人2 0几美金的早餐还要丰富。另外这个旅馆还很细心，也许知道大多客人都是要赶长途的，花七美金就可以随便打包午餐，我们自己做了二个三明治留着中午吃。饭后就在城里走走，感受一下宁静北欧小城生活。

下午一点多乘坐双层大巴去Tromso, 挪威，是北极圈内最大的城市。大巴上乘客不多，我们坐在二层第一排，有180度全景，一路上风景不错，是我们坐过大巴中最为漂亮舒服的一次，4个半小时巴士行程一会儿就过去了。我们已在外国坐过几次巴士，每次感觉都不错，看来今后旅行应该多考虑坐巴士。

到了Tromso后就去超市买点食品，这次的酒店是带厨房的。在瑞典和挪威这几天蔬菜吃得太少，这里也没亚洲的绿叶蔬菜，所以看到有蔬菜色拉就赶紧买，再配些肉和水果，晚饭就随便吃了。饭后就去附近走走，先熟悉一下环境，明天深度游。

Stockholm 斯德哥尔摩

June 6: In Stockholm, the tourist pass works differently from all the European countries we have visited. There are two separate cards: the 72-hour tourist and transportation cards. We decided to get both, enabling us to make the most of our visit. Stockholm's unique geography, with its myriad of islands, meant that many attractions were accessible by boats and ferries. The city center boasted around twenty to thirty small docks, providing convenient connections for tourists to explore the various island destinations.

We arrived in Sweden yesterday and learned today was Sweden's National Day, officially designated as a public holiday only since 2005. Although the celebrations were not as elaborate as those in China or the United States, the city center was bustling with people, and some popular tours were already fully booked. We decided to start with a one-hour boat ride along the Royal Canal, followed by a three-hour excursion to the archipelago.

We noticed a gathering of people outside the Naval Academy between the boat excursions, so we joined in the excitement. They were all awaiting the twenty-one-gun salute at noon. After the salute, three groups of fighter jets flew over the palace, marking the official celebration of their National Day.

We also witnessed spontaneous celebrations in the city center, with many locals waving flags and heading to parks and museums. Initially, we had planned to visit the Royal Palace, but it was exceptionally crowded since it was open to the public for free on National Day. We decided to postpone the visit for the next day. Instead, we explored the Nobel Prize Museum nearby but found it relatively simple and lacking distinctive features.

The old town, a popular attraction, captivated us with its charm. After wandering through its streets, we found a delightful Italian restaurant where we enjoyed pizza and seafood pasta.

Satisfied and energized, we continued our journey to the Fotografiska. This venue regularly hosts world-class and unconventional photography exhibitions; a fine dining restaurant is also inside. However, due to the National Day festivities, the restaurant was closed. Several world-class exhibitions were on display. "Santa Barbara" by Diana Markosian explores the nature of an immigrant family from Russia and the American dream in a moving and fascinating film.

With daylight lasting until after 9 pm, we couldn't resist exploring the city and admiring its nighttime beauty. The bustling streets during the day transformed into a serene and beautiful historic town in the evening.

June 7: It was another beautiful day with clear skies. Early in the morning, we hurried to the Royal Palace just in time to witness the changing of the guards. After enjoying the ceremonial display, we bought tickets to enter the palace for a tour, and we found out that the 72-hour tourist pass we purchased yesterday did not cover some of the major museums, such as the Royal Palace. While the palace was grand, it didn't differ much from other European palaces we had visited before.

In the afternoon, we leisurely strolled along the waterfront to the City Hall, where we found a small café nearby for a simple lunch. Afterward, we boarded an afternoon boat cruise at 2 pm to visit the Queen's Palace outside the city. It was the third boat excursion in two days. The palace was stunning, and with only a few visitors, it was precisely to our liking. The well-maintained gardens exceeded our expectations. Interestingly, in 1753, the king secretly built a Chinese Pavilion and adorned it with items from China and other Asian regions as a surprise gift for the queen. At that time, Chinese items were considered high-end luxury goods, and to this day, the Chinese Pavilion still retains its original wallpaper and some artistic decorations.

Returning to the city, we found a fantastic Asian restaurant next to our hotel for dinner. The flavors and dishes surpassed all our expectations, leaving us thoroughly satisfied. After dinner, we took a bus to Royal Park outside the city center. As we meandered through the park's serene pathways, we were captivated by its picturesque and tranquil surroundings. The absence of crowds of tourists made the experience even more enjoyable and relaxing. We joyfully clapped our hands in the Echo Pavilion to try its acoustic magic. The royal family also owns a sizeable private palace inside the park, but the high walls and endless security cameras prevented us from taking any photographs. Overall, our evening in the Royal Park was a delightful escape from the city's hustle and bustle, offering us a chance to appreciate nature's beauty and cherish quiet moments together.

June 8: Our final day in Stockholm was dedicated to visiting three museums: the Nordic Museum, the Vasa Museum, and The Viking Museum. Among them, the Vasa Museum stood out with its fascinating history. The Vasa was an ancient warship constructed in 1628, personally designed by the king to be one of the most advanced warships of its time. However, the ship sank just ten minutes after its maiden voyage due to its high center of gravity and narrow hull. Despite the king's involvement in the ship's design, he couldn't be held responsible, and the incident was swept under the rug. The Vasa lay at the bottom of the sea for over 300 years until it was salvaged in 1961. Over 90% of its components were still original, making it one of the most complete ancient warships in the world.

Our train departed at 10 pm. The hotel allowed us to check out at 6 pm by paying an additional $30, and we could explore the museums during the day and rest in the hotel later. That is precisely what we did. After checking out, we left our luggage at the hotel and returned to the old town. The hotel staff recommended a Swedish restaurant in the old town, where we enjoyed an authentic Swedish meal of meatballs and salmon.

After dinner, we wandered around Stockholm's city center once again. At 9:30 pm, we arrived at the train station, and our train was already waiting for us. We had booked a small sleep compartment with three beds but decided to pay extra to secure the entire room for ourselves, providing more comfort in the tight space. The compartment had a small sink, which made washing up convenient. It was our first time experiencing an overnight sleeper train in a foreign country, and it felt a bit less luxurious than the Amtrak sleeper cars in the United States. Still, it was a new and exciting adventure nonetheless.

6/6: 斯德哥尔摩的旅游卡和交通卡是分开的，我们购买了7 2小时旅游卡和交通卡。斯德哥尔摩地区有无数个岛屿，许多旅游项目都与游船，渡轮有关，市中心有二，三十个小码头。

到瑞典后才知道今天是他们的国庆节，直到0 5年才正式法定为休假日。虽然他们没像中国和美国那样庆祝，但是今天市中心还是人山人海，有些旅游项目都满客了。我们先坐小船在皇家运河里转了一小时，之后又花了三小时来了趟群岛游。

在这二游船之间，看到许多人聚集在海军学院外，我们也过去凑个热闹，发现大家都在等午时二十一响礼炮。二十一礼炮响后，三组空军战机飞越皇宫在上空转了一圈，也算是他们的国庆官方活动了。在市中心还看到一些自发的庆祝活动，许多当地人都拿着国旗在街上走或者是去公园和博物馆。本来计划去皇家宫殿的，结果因为皇家宫殿今天免费开放，去的人实在太多，我们决定还是隔日再去。诺贝尔奖博物馆就在附近且关得晚，我们去那里看了一下，博物馆做的不是很好，很简单也没什么特色。

老城区是一个景点，在那里转转之后找了一家意大利餐厅，要了披萨和海鲜意大利面，很不错。吃饱喝足继续看，来到斯德哥尔摩摄影展览馆。这里常常举办世界级、不拘一格的摄影展览，馆内还有高级餐厅，可能是国庆节的缘故，今天餐厅没开。发源于这里的摄影展览馆开始向世界各地发展，据说准备在上海苏州河也开同样的摄影馆。

这里九点多才日落，回到酒店后看着天还很亮，又出去转转，看看夜景，街头游客寥寥无几, 白天喧闹的大都市又变成了安静美丽的历史古城。

6/7: 今天又是个好天气，晴空万里，一早就赶去瑞典皇宫, 正好赶上换岗仪式，我们就凑热闹看了一会儿。然后就买票进皇宫参观，发现我们买的旅游卡并不包括皇宫之类的几个大景点。皇宫不错，与我们去过的其它欧洲宫殿没什么大的差别。

下午沿着水岸漫走到市政府楼，在附近找了小餐厅吃了简单的午餐后，就上了下午二点的游船去城外王后宫邸参观，非常漂亮，去的人不多，正合我们的心意。花园修得很好，大大超出了我们的期望。当时国王在1753年还在那里偷偷建造了一栋中国楼，并用来自中国和其他亚洲地区的物品装饰一番，送给王后，给她一个大惊喜。看来当时来自中国的东西是高档奢侈品，中国楼至今还保留当时的墙纸和其他一些艺术用品。

坐船回到城里后，在酒店旁边找了一家亚洲餐厅吃晚餐，味道是我们这次行程中最好的。饭后又坐公交车去在市中心外皇家公园散步，环境优美。王室在公园里有一座很大的私人宫殿，围墙拦着，无数的摄像头，不让拍照。

今天一整天都在看宫殿，路走了不少，休息一下明天再接再厉。

6/8: 最后一天在斯德哥尔摩，又走了三个博物馆，Nordic, Vasa和The Viking 博物馆，其中Vasa较有意思。Vasa是一艘古老的军舰，建成于1628年，由国王亲自参与设计的当时最先进的军舰，但下水仪式十分钟后就沉落海底，原因之一是船设计的船高身窄，重心太高．大风一来船就翻了。当然国王参与的事是不能追究责任的，只能不了了之。船在海底睡了三百多年。1961年开始将这船打捞上来，百分之九十以上的部件是原始的，据说是世界上最为完整的古军舰之一。

今天我们乘坐晚上十点的过夜火车离开这里，酒店允许我们推迟到下午六点才退房，只要多付三十美金。这样我们白天可以安心看完博物馆，然后再回酒店休息一会儿。退房后将行李寄存在酒店，又回到老城区。酒店前台推荐了一家老城区的餐厅，我们在那里吃上一顿正宗瑞典菜，肉园子和三文鱼，很满意。

晚饭后又在斯德哥尔摩市中心转了转，九点半来到火车站，火车已等着我们了。我们订的是三床一间的卧铺小包间。多花了一点钱把第三个床位买下了，这样小房间就只有我们俩。房间很小，但里面有个小水池这样洗漱比较方便。第一次在国外坐过夜火车，有种新鲜感，但觉得比美国的Amtrak 卧铺车厢要稍微差一点。