Another week in Seoul 首尔，又一周

April 19-26: There is a Chinese saying – Plan can't keep up with changes. Our planned two-week South Korean trip became three weeks. Now it got extended again, and we are in week four. We didn't move this time and stayed at the same residence hotel in Seoul. We slowed down and relaxed but not completely rested. We visited several places, including the National Museum of Korea and the Leem Museum. In this post, we asked ChatGPT to write a brief description of each place we visited, matching the pictures we took. The following paragraphs were a copy and paste of the answers provided by ChatGPT as the response to our request.

National Museum of Korea：A must-visit for history and culture enthusiasts, as it houses an extensive collection of artifacts and exhibits representing Korean history and heritage.

The War Memorial of Korea: This is a significant place to understand Korea's military history and pay tribute to those who sacrificed their lives during wartime.

Leem Museum: This museum is known for its collection of contemporary art, specifically focusing on fashion and textiles. If you have an interest in fashion and design, it could be an inspiring visit.

Hyundai Department Store: One of the largest and most famous department stores in Seoul, it offers a modern shopping experience and a wide range of products, from luxury brands to local favorites.

Dongdaemun Design Plaza: This iconic landmark is an architectural marvel and a hub for design and fashion-related events. It's an excellent place for photography and experiencing Seoul's modern side.

Gyeongdong Market: Visiting local markets like Gyeongdong can be a fantastic way to immerse yourself in traditional Korean culture. You'll find various street food, snacks, and various goods.

Jungnang Rose Park: A serene and beautiful spot to relax and enjoy nature, especially if you visit during the blooming season.

On the evening of April 26, we returned to the same all-you-can-eat Korean grill restaurant nearby to celebrate and enjoy another delicious Korean feast. Our four-week-long Korean tour came to an end, and we had so many great memories from this trip.

首尔 - 又一周

4/19 - 4/26：中国有句俗语——计划赶不上变化。原本计划的两周韩国之行变成了三周。如今再次延长，我们已经到了第四周。这次我们没有再挪地方，继续住在首尔的同一家公寓酒店。我们放慢了脚步但并未完全休息。参观了几个地方，包括韩国国立博物馆和李姆博物馆。在这篇帖子中，我们请ChatGPT为我们访问的每个地方写一个简短的描述，并与我们拍摄的照片相匹配。以下段落是ChatGPT提供的回答:

韩国国立博物馆（National Museum of Korea）： 是韩国最大、最重要的博物馆之一，位于首尔市中心的延世大学附近。该博物馆是韩国的国立博物馆，其使命是收藏、保护、研究和展示韩国和其他亚洲地区的文化和历史遗产。

韩国国立博物馆成立于1945年，最初名为“李王博物馆”，后来改为现在的名称。它的馆藏涵盖广泛，包括考古文物、历史文物、艺术品、民俗文物等。博物馆内的展品遍及韩国历史的各个时期，展示了韩国的古代文明、历史文化、艺术和技术成就。

韩国战争纪念馆（Korean War Memorial）： 位于韩国首都首尔，是一个为了纪念韩战（朝鲜战争）而建立的重要历史纪念地。韩战于1950年至1953年爆发，涉及韩国、朝鲜以及国际社会的多个国家，是一场影响深远的战争。

三星博物馆 (Leem Museum)： 是韩国首尔市的一个艺术博物馆，成立于2005年。该博物馆致力于展示来自韩国和国际艺术家的各种艺术作品，涵盖绘画、雕塑、摄影、装置艺术等不同形式的艺术品。它是一个重要的文化机构，为公众提供了一个欣赏和学习艺术的场所。

三星博物馆的收藏包含了大量优秀的艺术品，既有现当代艺术家的作品，也有历史上重要艺术家的作品。博物馆经常举办特展和文化活动，吸引了众多国内外观众和艺术爱好者。

现代百货公司 （Hyundai Department Store:）：首尔最大最著名的百货公司之一，提供现代化的购物体验和从奢侈品牌到本地喜爱的商品的各种产品。

东大门设计广场（Dongdaemun Design Plaza，简称DDP）： 是位于韩国首尔市的一个现代建筑和文化中心。它是一个综合性的建筑群，由韩国建筑师崔斗谦（Zaha Hadid）设计，于2014年竣工。DDP的设计极具现代感，以其流线型外观和独特的建筑结构而闻名。它是韩国历史悠久的东大门区域的一部分，曾是传统的购物和贸易中心。然而，随着城市的发展，DDP的建筑作为现代化的文化和商业中心出现，成为了一个热门的旅游目的地。

DDP内部设有展览馆、设计商店、艺术工坊、咖啡厅、图书馆等多个设施，以及一个可供公众参观的展览空间。这个建筑群不仅举办各种文化活动、艺术展览和设计展示，还经常举办时装周、设计节和其他国际性的活动。因此，DDP在韩国和全球的设计和文化界都享有很高的声誉。

庆东市场（Gyeongdong Market）： 是位于韩国首尔市的一个传统市场，也被称为"庆东药材市场"。它是首尔最大的药材市场之一，主要经营药材、中药材、天然药物、保健品和其他相关产品。庆东市场成立于1960年代，至今已有数十年的历史。它是韩国传统中药材市场的代表之一，吸引了许多寻求天然疗法和中药材的居民和游客前来购买。在这里，您可以找到各种各样的草药、树皮、根茎、植物、花草、虫草等，这些东西在传统中医疗法中被认为具有药用价值。除了药材，庆东市场还提供一些传统的韩国食品和商品，是一个了解韩国传统文化和药物文化的好地方。

中央玫瑰公园（Jungnang Rose Park）： 是位于韩国首尔市的一个美丽的玫瑰花园。它位于首尔市的中央地区，是一个以玫瑰为主题的公园，提供了欣赏各种品种的玫瑰花和休闲散步的场所。中央玫瑰公园是一个广受欢迎的观赏花卉的地方，特别是在玫瑰盛开的季节，通常在春季和夏季。公园内种植了大量的玫瑰花，不同颜色和品种的花朵在盛开时营造出绚丽多彩的景象。

在这个公园里，游客可以漫步在花海中，欣赏美丽的玫瑰花朵，同时也可以在公园的座椅上休息，享受宁静的时光。许多人喜欢在这里与家人、朋友一起度过一个愉快的下午，还有一些人会选择在这里拍摄美丽的照片，留下难忘的回忆。公园内通常会有一些设施，如咖啡馆、休息区和洗手间，为游客提供便利。而且，公园周边可能还有其他的景点和活动，让您可以更好地享受这个地区的美景。

四月二十六日晚，我们来到旅馆附近的同一家自助式韩国烧烤餐厅，再次享用了一顿美味的韩国盛宴。四周的韩国之旅结束了，此行给我们留下了许多美好的回忆。

Nami Island and Dakgalbi 南怡岛和春川鸡排

April 18: We were tired of the big city and decided to take a day trip to visit Nami Island outside Seoul. We embarked on Gyeongchun Line to Gapyeong station and then took a taxi to the Nami Island ferry terminal. Nami Island is a picturesque island famous for its tree-lined paths, beautiful gardens, and scenic landscapes. It gained international fame after being featured in the popular Korean drama "Winter Sonata," as we were told. Although we did not know about the show before the trip, we went there anyway.

We rode a small ferry to Nami Island, also called the Naminara Republic of Korea, a self-proclaimed micronation within South Korea created by the founder of Nami Island. The unique and whimsical concept of a fantasy nation enhances the Island's appeal as a tourist destination. As we stepped onto the land of a republic, we were greeted with a giant statue of books, a post office, a general store, and a coffee shop.

After one hour of public transportation ride, we craved a cup of coffee and took a break, but the workers at the coffee shop were on lunch break. With no place to get coffee or any hot drinks, we moved on and walked on a trail along the island's edge, which circles the entire Island. There are many charming cabins along the path next to the river. An array of captivating art installations, gardens, and sculptures are scattered across the Island, blending human creativity seamlessly with the surrounding natural beauty. We took a few pictures of cute ostriches. Fortunately, the pink Cherry Blossoms were still in the last stage in the park. Despite the overcast weather, our time meandering through the Island was nothing short of pleasant and relaxing—a testament to the thoughtful curation of this enchanting place.

As we walked towards the end of the island, where a hotel and resort villas are nested, we didn't forget we still needed a cup of Latte. We stepped into a hotel and ordered a cup of Latte. The view was great, but the coffee was expensive, $7, the most expensive one in Korea. There were so many art installations within the park to explore. Then we arrived at the center of the Island, where many restaurants, gift shops, and museums are. A few peacocks were roaming freely in front of the stores. We even caught a picture of a fly peacock. We passed through the most pictured tree-lined path on the Island and returned to the ferry terminal to return to the mainland. We thought visiting Nami Island was undeniably worthwhile, and the experience provided a glimpse into South Korean culture and art creativity.

After enjoying the serene beauty of Nami Island, we were hungry but didn't want to eat too much in the sit-down restaurant since we had something else in mind. So we had our simple lunch at the 7-11 convenience store near the ferry terminal. Unlike 7-11 stores in the States, the store here has a good size sitting area with a microwave, hot plate, and hot water. For our modest meal, we opted for two triangle rice cakes and an instant noodle, finding the experience to be another delightful Korean tradition we could cherish.

Then we hopped on a taxi to the subway station and continued our journey to Chuncheon. Stepping out of the station, we didn't immediately go to the city center. Instead, we strolled over the Chuncheon Bridge on the scenic Gongjicheon Stream a few hundred meters from the station. The bridge leads only to the Island Legoland Resort is located. Since Legoland wasn't busy, hardly any cars were driving over the bridge. Our walk was pleasant, and the panoramic view of the city and the surrounding area was magnificent.

Our primary reason for visiting Chungcheon was to savor their renowned specialty, Chuncheon Dakgalbi. This flavorful chicken dish is prepared with vegetables and rice cakes, cooked in a spicy chili paste sauce. Along Chuncheon Dakgalbi Street, numerous restaurants offer this mouthwatering traditional delicacy at similar prices, making it a must-try experience. After strolling along the vibrant street, we finally settled in a restaurant that seemed to attract more customers than the others. Dakgalbi has two cooking options: grill or stir-fry. We opted for the latter. The preparation process was interactive and communal, as the dish was cooked at our table on a large, flat pan. The waitress poured the ingredients onto the sizzling hot pan, including chicken, cabbage, sweet potatoes, rice cakes, and others. From time to time, she came to the table to stir the chicken and vegetables, ensuring they absorbed the rich flavors of the sauce. After 10-15 mins, she told us the chicken was ready to eat, and then we were at our own pace to continue to cook and eat. The entire experience was enjoyable, leaving us with an authentic and unique culinary memory. So far, we have tried both Andong Jjimdak and Chuncheon Dakgalbi and were more inclined towards the latter.

南怡岛和春川鸡排

4月18日：我们决定去首尔周边的南怡岛看看。南怡岛以其林荫小径、美丽花园和景色优美而闻名，是一个风景如画的小岛，据说它因韩剧《冬季恋歌》的拍摄而走红国际舞台。尽管我们对这部影剧并不了解，但我们对那里还是充满了好奇。南怡岛创始人称小岛为韩国南麻立共和国。 这种奇特岛名也为这个旅游胜地增添了些吸引力。

我们搭乘京春线前往加平车站，然后坐出租车前往南怡岛渡轮码头，再乘坐小渡轮抵达南怡岛。一踏上小岛迎面而来的是巨大的书籍雕像、邮局、杂货店和咖啡店，欢迎来自远道而来的游客。

经过一个多小时的火车、出租车和渡轮旅程，上岛后我们第一件事就是渴望有一杯热咖啡，但不巧咖啡店的工作人员正在午休。于是我们决定先沿着环岛的小径走。沿途有许多专为出租的漂亮小木屋，就建在河边。一路还有各种艺术装置、花园和雕塑，与周围的自然美景融为一体。可爱的鸵鸟们给了我们惊喜，更幸运的是公园里的粉红樱花还在盛开，为小岛增色不少。尽管天空多云，但我们的游兴丝毫未减。

终于走到岛尖的酒店和度假别墅区，我们还是念念不忘那没喝到的咖啡。于是直奔酒店的咖啡厅点了拿铁。咖啡厅环境虽美，但这杯咖啡实在贵，7美元一杯，是我们在韩国喝到的最贵的一杯。接着我们来到岛的中心区，那里有许多餐厅、礼品店和博物馆。在商店前，几只孔雀悠闲地走着，我们甚至拍到了孔雀飞翔的照片。度假村附近以及中心区都有许多艺术装置可供欣赏，让我们感受到了岛上的独特艺术氛围。穿过岛上最有名的水杉木林大道，我们最终返回渡轮码头。南怡岛的确是一个值得一游的地方，在这里可以体验一下韩国的文化和艺术创意。

享受了南怡岛宁静美景后，我们想找个地方充饥，但又不想花太多时间在餐厅里。在渡轮码头附近有个7-11便利店， 于是我们决定在那里简单用餐。与美国的7-11店不同，这家店有一个相当大的休息区，配备了微波炉、热板和热水设施，为顾客提供便利的用餐环境。我们选择了两个三角饭团，这是一种将米饭与各种馅料包裹在三角形状的海苔片中的传统小吃。每口咬下去，都能感受到饭团内馅料的美味。自从来到韩国之后，我们喜欢上了这种三角饭团。另外我们还点了一碗泡面，韩国泡面以其独特的辣味和丰富的配料而闻名。那热腾腾浓郁的汤汁和劲道的面条，再咬上一口饭团， 虽简单却相当满足。

午餐后我们乘坐出租车回到地铁站，然后坐地铁前往春川。到达春川地铁站后，我们没有立即前往市中心，而是来到风景如画的宫脊河大桥。这座美丽的桥距离地铁站只有几百米远，它通向乐高乐园度假村。由于乐高乐园游客不多，几乎没有车辆驶过桥。漫步在大桥上可以欣赏到城市和周围地区的美丽全景。

我们来春川此行的主要目的是品尝他们著名的特色菜 - 春川明洞鸡排。这是一道用蔬菜和年糕炒制的美味鸡肉菜肴，调以辣椒酱。在春川明洞鸡排街上，许多餐厅以类似的价格供应这种美味的传统美食。先沿街走一下，最终我们选择了一家比其它餐厅有着更多顾客的餐厅。鸡排有两种烹饪方式：烤或炒。我们选择了后者。在我们的桌子上放了一个大平底锅，女服务员将包括鸡肉、白菜、红薯、年糕等各种配料倒入炙热的平底锅中，她时不时地回来搅拌鸡肉和蔬菜，确保它们充分吸收酱汁的浓郁味道。大约10-15分钟左右，服务员告诉我们鸡肉已经熟了，我们可以按自己的节奏继续烹饪和享用。整个过程非常愉快，给我们留下了独特的美食记忆。这次来韩国，我们已尝试过安东炖鸡和春川明洞鸡排，我们更偏爱春川明洞鸡排，它也绝对成为了我们韩国行的一大亮点。

Seoul's Park and Palace 首尔的公园和宫殿

April 16: We visited Seoul Olympic Park today. Olympic Park in Seoul is a sprawling recreational area built to commemorate the 1988 Summer Olympics held in the city. It covers an extensive space and features various facilities and art installations. As we entered the park, our attention was immediately drawn to a series of captivating portraits adorning the sides of the main walkway. We had no idea who they were and why. As we walked closer to the stadium, we encountered an even greater display of posters. Curiosity got the best of us, prompting an impromptu Google search on our phones. A popular South Korean girl group, TWICE, had an opening concert of their 2023 World Tour – "Ready to Be" at the stadium tonight. In the morning, 10 hours before the opening of the "Ready to Be" tour, fans, both girls and guys, were already queuing up outside large tents, eager to procure souvenirs. Such a scene gave us a fascinating glimpse into the world of dedicated fans we weren't familiar with.

The park boasts beautifully landscaped gardens, walking paths, and open spaces for leisure activities. We strolled on the meandered walking paths, went around the tranquil pond, and took many pictures.

From the Olympic Park, we could see the Lotte World Tower, an iconic landmark in Seoul, in the distance. The tower is part of the larger Lotte World complex, which includes the popular Lotte World theme park, shopping malls, hotels, offices, and other entertainment facilities. We went to the shopping mall first to have lunch there. Due to the weekend, the mall was crowded with tourists like us and the locals. Outside the mall was a giant pink bear, a 15-meter tall Bellygom created by the Lotte World to celebrate its 5th-anniversary last year. Many locals took pictures with the giant bear, enjoyed the concert, and bought little bears from the Bellygom store. Witnessing the zeal and enthusiasm of so many young individuals towards a character created primarily for marketing purposes left us amazed.

Bongeunsa Temple is a Buddhist temple in the heart of Seoul, near the bustling Gangnam district. It offers a serene and spiritual retreat from the city's fast-paced environment. Colorful paper lanterns hung over the courtyards through the temple. The visitors could pay to place a prayer note under a lantern. We had to take our shoes off to go inside the halls. In the shrine halls, small statues of Buddha are placed by people who pay tribute to the deceased relatives and friends, a traditional way of remembrance in Asia. The massive twenty-three-meter-tall statue of Maitreya Buddha (The Future Buddha) was impressive. An open Mireuk-jeon Hall of many smaller-size Buddha statues surrounds the tall statue. The temple was well-renovated and provided a unique experience in Buddhist culture in Korea.

Back to the hotel for a short break, then we went to a Sushi place nearby and had sashimi and tempura for dinner. The restaurant was very local, with no one speaking any English. After we placed the order, a robot carried a fried fish dish to our table. We were confused, looking at each other, since we didn't order the dish. The customers on the other table waved a hand gesture that it was okay to pick up. It turned out to be a free appetizer. We enjoyed the fried fish, sashimi, and tempura very much.

April 17: We needed free admission tickets to visit the presidential residence in South Korea called The Korea Blue House. Foreigners are not allowed to book the tickets online. We left the hotel early to ensure we could secure the tickets and took the subway to the Blue House. Although many local tourists were there already, the ticket line for foreigners was nonexistent. Showing the passports and receiving the tickets, we walked into the campus and were greeted by the traditional blue-tiled roofs of the presidential residence building. The current president no longer lives and works there since it became a public park in 2022. The rooms inside the buildings were spacious, and the tour provided insight into the nation's governance and history. The palace ground was on the ancient palace site with historical markers and scenic walking paths. We wandered every corner of the compound and considered it the best public park in Seoul.

After visiting the Blue House, somehow, we made our way to a buffet café in a skyscraper office building. To our surprise, this buffet café was quite different from the usual ones we were accustomed to. It resembled more of a company cafeteria, offering a limited selection of food items, including meat, vegetables, and soup. What caught our attention was a kitchen table in the corner of the room, equipped with several portable stoves, where people were cooking eggs on their own. Feeling intrigued and eager to immerse ourselves in the local customs, we followed suit and cooked two eggs ourselves, a refreshing change from the typical buffet experience. Some individuals were also opting to cook instant noodles, a popular comfy food for Korean. The atmosphere allowed us to feel like locals, providing a glimpse into the everyday lives of working people in Seoul. The experience was delightful and added a unique touch to our dining adventure.

Gyeongbokgung Palace, located in Seoul, is Korea's largest and most iconic royal palace. It was the main palace during the Joseon Dynasty and is renowned for its stunning architecture and picturesque surroundings. We were just in time for the guard change ceremony. The guards, dressed in traditional Joseon Dynasty costumes, performed a series of choreographed movements and marches with colorful flags, traditional weapons, and drums. We enjoyed the showcase.

The palace complex features various buildings, including the Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, Geunjeongjeon Hall, and the National Palace Museum of Korea. The locals and foreigners, dressed in rented traditional hanbok attire, filled the palace ground. The vibrant colors and intricate designs of the hanbok attire added a sense of elegance and historical charm to the atmosphere.

To add another touch to our Korean historical and cultural tour in Seoul, we visited Bukchon Hanok Village, a residential area of well-preserved Hanok houses near the Gyeongbokgung Palace. Strolling through the narrow alleyways and quaint streets of Bukchon Hanok Village, we appreciated the beauty of the Hanok architecture and experienced the ambiance of ancient Korea. But we felt the area was too crowded and too "new" compared to Andong Hanok Village.

The dinner at the all-you-can-eat Korean grill was something we had been eyeing for a while. Every time we passed the restaurant, it seemed to be bustling, with customers enjoying the delicious grilled pork belly and chops. Peeking through the window, we couldn't help but feel envious of their dining experience. So, we made a promise to ourselves that we would give it a try at least once. Last night, we had attempted to dine there, but the wait for a table was too long, and we didn't want to wait. Determined to try it today, we arrived early and were thrilled to get a table immediately. As we settled in, the waitress came and said something to us. We had no clue what she had just said, and she didn't understand English either. Luckily, the table next to us was a young couple from China, and they did the translation for us. We were very grateful. The buffet included many traditional Korean dishes, but most important, the meat. We grilled beef, pork, and chicken ourselves, which were delicious. It was a feast, and we ate way too much. Now we understand why the restaurant was always crowded.

首尔奥林匹克公园和总统府

4/16：今天我们参观了首尔奥林匹克公园。该公园是为1988年首尔夏季奥运会而建，它占地广阔，拥有各种娱乐设施和户外艺术作品。当我们一进入公园时，我们的目光就被步道两侧的一系列迷人肖像所吸引。她们是谁我们一无所知。走近体育场时，我们看到更多更大的海报。好奇心促使我们在手机上进行了即兴的谷歌搜索。原来她们是著名的韩国女子组合TWICE今晚将在体育场举行她们的2023世界巡演——“Ready to Be”的首场演岀。距离“Ready to Be”巡演开场还有10个小时，但男男女女年轻的粉丝们，已经开始在大帐篷外排起长队，购买纪念品。这样的场景让我们见证了粉丝世界的狂热，对我们来说是这一个陌生但又好奇的领域。

奥林匹克公园拥有美丽的景观花园、蜿蜒的步道和开阔的休闲空间。我们在迂回曲折的步道上漫步，绕过宁静的池塘，拍摄了许多照片。

从奥林匹克公园可以看到首尔标志性的乐天世界塔。这座塔是乐天世界综合体的一部分，包括深受欢迎的乐天世界主题公园、购物中心、酒店、办公室和其他娱乐设施。我们先去了购物中心，因为周末，购物中心挤满了像我们这样的游客和当地人。购物中心外展示着一只巨大的粉红色大熊，称为Bellygom，15米高的大熊是乐天世界为庆祝开业五周年而制作的。许多当地人都围着这只巨熊合影，在专卖店外排着长队购买了小熊作为纪念品。看到这么多年轻人对一个主要用于营销目的的角色如此热情，让我们感到惊讶。

奉恩寺是位于繁忙的首尔市中心江南区的一座佛教寺庙。寺庙的庭院上悬挂着色彩斑斓的纸灯，游客可以支付一定费用后在灯笼下放置祈愿纸条。我们需要脱鞋进入大殿。在神殿里，人们会为已故的亲戚和朋友放置小佛像，这是亚洲传统的纪念方式。巨大的二十三米高的弥勒佛（未来佛）雕像令人印象深刻。围绕着高大的雕像放置许多尺寸较小的佛像，形成开放式的弥勒殿。

回到酒店休息片刻，然后我们去附近的一家寿司店，晚餐点了生鱼片和天妇罗。这家餐厅非常地道，但没有人会说英语。我们点完餐后，一个机器人将一道炸鱼小菜送到了我们的桌子边。我们相互看看，因为我们并没有点这道菜，正在不知该拿还不拿时，隔壁桌的客人示意我们可以拿走，原来这是一道免费的开胃菜。我们非常喜欢这道炸鱼、生鱼片和天妇罗。

4/17：韩国的总统府, 又称青瓦台, 对外免费开放参观，但需门票。外国人不能在线预订票，必须亲自前往门口领取。为了确保能够获得参观票，我们早早离开了酒店，乘坐地铁前往青瓦台。虽然到达时已经有不少当地游客，但外国游客寥寥无几，没人排队。我们出示护照领取门票后，踏进了总统府大院，迎接我们的是总统府大楼上传统的蓝色琉璃瓦顶。自从2022年成为公共公园以来，现任总统不再住在这里工作居住。建筑内的房间宽敞，参观让我们对韩国的治理和历史有了更多的了解。宫殿的场地建在古老的宫殿遗址上，我们沿着设有历史标志和风景优美的步行道漫步，尽情游览了总统大院的每一个角落，我们觉得这里是首尔最好的公共公园之一。

参观完青瓦台后，阴差阳错我们来到一座摩天大楼办公楼里的自助餐厅。让我们惊讶的是，这家自助餐厅与我们通常习惯的自助餐有很大不同。它更像是一家公司食堂，提供有限的食物选择，包括肉类、蔬菜和汤品。引起我们注意的是房间角落里的厨房桌，上面配有几个便携式炉灶，人们可以自己煎鸡蛋。我们感到好奇，当然不会放弃这个机会，于是也自己煎了两个鸡蛋，这给了我们一种与典型的自助餐不同的新鲜感。有些人还选择自己煮方便面，韩国流行的舒适食品。这种氛围让我们感觉像当地人，瞥见了首尔上班族的日常生活。这个经历非常愉快，并为我们的用餐探险增添了独特的乐趣。

位于首尔的景福宫是韩国最大、最具代表性的皇宫。它在朝鲜王朝时期是主要的宫殿，因其壮丽的建筑和优美的环境而闻名。我们恰好赶上了换岗仪式，看到身着传统朝鲜王朝服装的卫兵们手持五颜六色的旗帜、传统武器和鼓表演了一系列编排精妙的仪式。与其他换岗仪式相比，我们觉的这次表演是最好的。

欣赏完仪式后，我们继续探索景福宫内的建筑和庭院。其中一些建筑物已经有数百年的历史，但修复得十分完好。景福宫金碧辉煌的建筑群包括景福阁、勤政殿和韩国国立宫殿博物馆等建筑。当地居民和外国游客身着租借的传统韩服（hanbok），鲜艳的颜色和精美的设计让传统韩服散发出优雅的历史魅力，也为宫殿的场地增添了一抹缤纷色彩。

接着，我们前往位于景福宫附近的北村韩屋村，这里是一个保存完好的传统韩屋居住区。漫步在北村韩屋村狭窄的小巷和古朴的街道上，我们欣赏到了传统韩屋建筑的美丽，并感受了古代韩国的氛围。 我们不时能看到一些当地居民穿着传统韩服，给整个村落增添了一份活力。不过与安东韩屋村相比，我们觉得这个地方有些拥挤，也显得有些过于“新”。

我们住的旅馆附近韩式烤肉店，每次经过这家餐厅，总是看到客人在享受美味的烤五花肉和排骨。透过窗户窥探，那种无限量自助韩式烤肉的用餐体验太吸引人。我们决定至少要尝试一次。昨晚我们试图在那里用餐，但餐厅客满，等位的时间实在太长，我们不想等那么久，便找了家寿司店。但决定今天一定要再试试，于是早早来到餐厅，非常高兴没等，立即入座。坐下后，女服务员过来和我们说了些话。我们根本不懂她说了什么，而她也不懂英语。幸运的是，隔壁桌的一对来自中国的年轻夫妇为我们做了翻译。我们非常感激他们的帮助。自助餐包括许多传统的韩国菜，但最重要的是肉类。我们自己烤牛肉、猪肉和鸡肉，每一道都非常美味，感受到了传统韩国烤肉的独特魔力。也明白了为什么这家餐厅总是这么挤。

Seoul - 中浪川河, 王陵

April 12: We had our morning breakfast, packed our luggage, and checked out of the hotel around noon. We moved from the bustling Myeongdong area to a spacious accommodation in the Jungnang district in Seoul, away from the tourist-concentrated city center. It's a perfect place to experience authentic local Korean life and culture. The metro system in Seoul is very well built, and with the T-money card in hand, it was pretty easy to go around the city. Our new residence hotel offers ample space with a bedroom, a living room, a convenient kitchen, and, best of all, an in-unit washer.

Once we settled in, we took a trip to nearby Costco, just a 15-minute walk from our hotel, to stock up on groceries. There were so many Korean products in Costco, but Costco's famous rotisserie chickens and hotdogs were still there. We ate the famous Costco hotdog for lunch and tried the Korean bulgogi pizza. The hotdog was no different from the ones in the U.S., but the taste of the bulgogi pizza was interesting. We probably would prefer the traditional pepperoni pizza.

We made our own dinner tonight and had Chinese bok choy and tasty Korean short ribs. While we didn't partake in any sightseeing activities today, we thoroughly enjoyed unwinding and familiarizing ourselves with the neighborhood, stepping away from the usual tourist attractions.

April 13: Breakfast was the dumplings we bought from Costco, and they were outstanding. Not far from our hotel was the Jungnangcheon stream. The Jungnangcheon stream was said to have most water flowing to the Han River. The stream was very long, more than 20+ miles. We discovered various sports facilities along the stream's banks, such as walking/biking lanes, basketball courts, swimming pools, tennis courts, and a mini-golf course. We decided to go in one direction first (north) and would try the other direction (south) on another day.

The walking/biking lanes were very well built, but only a few people used them. The sports courts were empty. The two of us just enjoyed the peacefulness, as well as the scenic view. After walking for about an hour, we left the stream bank and found ourselves walking on another trail, still parallel to the stream, just a little away from the bank and above the flood protection walls. It was a nice walking trail with many trees, flowers, and small rose parks. There was even exercise equipment on the path, an excellent place for the locals to enjoy outdoor activities. These sports facilities and gardens left a lasting impression on us.

Several farmers' markets were near our hotel. The Dongbu market was just about five minutes walking distance. We could find fresh veggies, fresh fruits, and other products there. Small restaurants were selling many traditional Korean food we loved. The coffee shops always had promotional deals, and we visited them often. We enjoyed walking around the market very much.

At night, many street vendors set up booths along the road selling all kinds of Korean snacks. Our favorite one was the Korean glutinous corn. This corn tasted so much better than the corn in the U.S., and it's cheap too.

April 14: We did the north direction of the Jungnangcheon stream yesterday and had a wonderful time. We decided to head south today after breakfast and embarked on a very long walk following the Jungnangcheon stream all the way to the Seoul Forest Park, where the Jungangcheon stream meets the Han River. Like the ones, we saw yesterday, walking/biking lines and various sports facilities along both sides of the stream's banks. The newly created "Gwangjin Rose Garden" had 30 different kinds of roses planted with a boat sculpture symbolizing the waterside city. Although it was a bit early for the roses to bloom and too late to witness the cherry blossoms, the place was still beautiful, and we could easily spend more time there.

When we finally arrived at Forest Park, we were delighted by the vibrant blooming tulips in the park. There were a lot of picnic tables there which is very convenient for the locals to come here to relax and enjoy nature. While there, we noticed some government officials inspecting the park, as locals recognized and eagerly approached them for handshakes and photos. Despite our curiosity, we couldn't identify who the official was, even after conducting a Google search.

The scenery stroll along the river and stream left us both satisfied and tired. We left the hotel almost four hours ago. To reward ourselves, we enjoyed a late lunch at a seafood restaurant. The octopus was very delicious, but the spicy fish stew tasted too spicy for us.

We took the metro back to our hotel. After some rest, we went to the nearby mall, where we found many restaurants there. One restaurant that serves all kinds of seafood bibimbap got our attention. We ordered the cockle bibimbap, and it was one of the best dishes we had in Korea.

April 15: We took another extensive walk to visit two majestic royal tombs, Taereung and Gangleung. As we walked on the street, some area of the sidewalk was under construction, and the workers not only put the sign but also covered the dirt surface with the mat. This considerate gesture left a lasting impression on us and demonstrated their commitment to safety and the convenience of pedestrians. Along our journey, we made a delightful pit stop at Hwarangdae Railway Park, located adjacent to Korea Military Park. The thoughtfully designed park offers a unique experience, showcasing various trains and railroad-related exhibits. We don't remember we have seen similar public parks in other places. When we decided to take a moment to relax and enjoy a cup of Café Latte, to our astonishment, our drinks were delivered to our table whimsically and delightfully—by a toy train! It was a charming touch that added an extra element of joy and uniqueness to our visit.

We visited the Royal Tomb Museum of the Joseon Dynasty at the Taereung Royal Tomb site. The museum provides insights into the royal burial customs, rituals, and traditions of the Joseon Dynasty, the last dynasty of Korea that ruled from 1392 to 1897. Visitors can explore the exhibits showcasing various artifacts excavated from the royal tombs, including pottery, jewelry, clothing, and other cultural relics. Then we walked to the Taereung Royal Tomb mound. Taereung Royal Tomb has been preserved without damage for nearly 500 years, a miracle under many wars. It is the royal tomb of Queen Munjeong, the second consort of King Jungjong (11th king of Joseon). There were not many tourists or locals at the site. Because the visitors were not allowed to enter the burial mound, we didn't see the elegant details of the tomb too much.

King Myeongjong (13th king of Joseon) and his wife, Queen Insun, were buried at Gangneung Royal Tomb. Both Taereung and Gangneung Royal Tombs are designated UNESCO World Heritage sites. An intriguing 1.8 km hiking trail meandering through the forest connects these tombs, providing an opportunity to appreciate the surrounding natural beauty. Unfortunately, during our visit, the path was closed.

After touring the tombs, we took the bus back to the hotel. Dinner was at another seafood restaurant with seafood pancakes which we enjoyed very much.

4/12: 早餐后，我们整理好行李，大约在中午左右退房。我们离开了繁华的明洞地区，远离游客聚集的市中心，搬到了位于首尔中南区的宽敞住宿。这样的安排让我们能更好地体验当地人的生活和文化。首尔的地铁系统非常便利，我们购买了T-money卡，使用起来非常方便。我们入住的公寓式酒店房间宽敞，有卧室、起居室和厨房，并且还配备了一台单元内洗衣机。安顿下来后，我们前往附近的Costco，只需步行15分钟，购买了一些食品。Costco有许多韩国产品，当然著名的Costco烤鸡和热狗肯定有。午餐时，我们要了Costco的热门热狗，尝试了韩国烤肉披萨。热狗的味道与美国的相似，但韩国烤肉披萨的味道颇有趣。或许我们更喜欢传统的意大利辣香肠披萨。

晚上，我们在住处自己做了晚餐，炒了上海小青菜，烧了韩国排骨，味道不错但排骨有点甜。虽然今天没有参加任何观光活动，但远离市中心繁忙的旅游景点，能让我们更加自在地感受当地人的日常生活，了解他们的生活起居和文化习惯。这样的旅行体验让我们感受到了与众不同的魅力，也为我们的旅程增添了独特的记忆。

4/13：今天的早餐是我们昨天从Costco买来的饺子，美味极了。我们的酒店离中浪川河不远，这是汉江的主要支流，河流长达二十多英里。沿着河岸边有各种体育设施，包括步行/自行车道、篮球场、游泳池、网球场和迷你高尔夫球场。我们决定先向北走一段路，计划着改天再换个方向。这些步行/自行车道建造得很好，但只有少数人在使用，整个运动场上也空无一人。这对我们来说是好事，既宁静又不缺风景，两个人自由自在非常享受。大约走了一个小时后，我们离开了河岸，转入一条位于防洪墙上的优美步行道，它与溪流平行，离河岸不远。沿途有许多树木、鲜花和小玫瑰公园。路上甚至还设有健身器材，成为当地居民户外活动的好去处。漂亮的步行道及这些体育设施和花园给我们留下了深刻的印象。

我们酒店附近有几个农贸市场，其中东埠市场只有五分钟的步行路程。在那里，我们可以找到新鲜的蔬菜、水果和其他产品。小餐馆供应许多我们喜欢的传统韩国美食。而咖啡店总是有一些不错的打折活动，我们常常在那里享用一杯拿铁。到了晚上，我们喜欢在市场里漫步，因为很多街头小贩在人行道上摆摊，出售各种韩国小吃。我们最喜欢的是韩国糯玉米，这种玉米的味道比美国的玉米更美味，而且价格也很实惠。

4/14：昨天沿着中浪川河往北走，河岸周边的城市建设让我们赞不绝口。今天早餐后，我们决定向南走，沿着中浪川河一直走到它与汉江交汇处的首尔森林公园。像昨天一样，沿途两岸有着沿着溪流的步行/自行车线和各种体育设施。其中新建的“广津玫瑰园”种植了30多种玫瑰，并且还有象征水边城市的船雕。尽管玫瑰花还未开放，樱花季节也已错过，但公园仍然非常漂亮，我们在那里度过了愉快的时光。

终于到达森林公园时，我们被公园里盛开的郁金香所吸引。在公园里，我们注意到有政府官员正在检查工作，当地居民认出他后，热切地向他走近，握手并合影。虽然我们很好奇，但即使在进行了谷歌搜索之后，我们也无法确定这位官员的身份。

沿着河流和溪流漫步让我们感到既满足又有些疲劳，因为我们从早上离开酒店到现在已经走了近四个小时了。需要犒劳一下自己，午餐我们在一家海鲜餐厅享用了美味的海鲜。章鱼很好吃，但炖辣鱼对我们来说太辣了。

回到酒店稍作休息后，我们前往附近的购物中心，那里有许多餐馆可供选择。一家供应各种海鲜石锅拌饭的餐厅引起了我们的兴趣。我们点了蛤蟆拌饭，这是我们在韩国吃过的最好的菜肴之一。今天的美食之旅让我们的味蕾得到了极大的满足。

4/15：今天再接再厉，又来一次长长的徒步旅行。参观了两个壮丽的皇家陵墓 - 泰陵和甘陵。在前往陵墓的途中，我们顺便在毗邻韩国军校的花剌台铁路公园逛了一圈。这个精心设计的公园提供了独特的体验，展示了各种火车铁路相关的实物。我们感觉在其他地方很难找到类似的公园。当我们准备放松一下，品尝一杯拿铁咖啡时，我们的咖啡竟然被玩具火车送到了我们的餐桌上！给我们增添了额外的惊喜和欢乐。

我们首先参观了位于泰陵皇家陵墓遗址的朝鲜王朝皇家陵墓博物馆。该博物馆向我们展示了朝鲜王朝（1392年至1897年统治韩国的最后一个王朝）皇家葬礼习俗、仪式和传统。在博物馆中，我们看到了从皇家陵墓出土的各种文物，包括陶器、珠宝、服饰和其他古董，深入了解了朝鲜历史文化。

接着我们来到了泰陵皇家陵墓，这个陵墓保存了近500年，没有受到破坏。它是贞宗王（朝鲜第11任国王）的第二任王后文贞王后的皇家陵墓。由于不允许游客进入陵墓，我们没有看到墓葬的优雅细节。同样，江陵皇家陵墓也是明宗国王（朝鲜第13任国王）和仁顺王后的安息之地。泰陵和江陵皇家陵墓都被联合国教科文组织指定为世界遗产。尽管连接这两座陵墓的1.8公里徒步小径被关闭，但我们还是有机会欣赏到周围自然美景。

参观完陵墓后，我们搭乘巴士返回酒店，并在另一家海鲜餐厅享用了晚餐，品尝了美味的海鲜煎饼。

Seoul-首尔塔，德寿宫

April 9: We left Jeonju and returned to Seoul today. We could only secure two standing tickets for the early morning return train two days ago when we arrived in Jeonju Sation. Last night we informed the host that we wouldn't have time for breakfast as we needed to catch the train early. As we walked through the quiet and empty streets of the village, we managed to find a taxi to take us to the train station. We savored a coffee and a pastry at the station before proceeding to the platform to wait for the train, where we joined many other tourists.

Passengers with standing tickets can only stand between the train cars. From previous train rides, we knew that there were two small foldable seats in that area. But we were unsure if we would be fortunate enough to secure them since our station wasn't the train's starting point. Fortunately, we were lucky enough to find seats unoccupied when the train arrived. Happily, we sat in the connecting area between the train cars for the two-hour journey back to Seoul. It felt like our private compartment, and we needed to get up at each stop to accommodate other passengers to get on and off the train.

For the second time in Seoul, we opted for a different hotel in the middle of the bustling Myeongdong. Since we arrived at the hotel before the designated check-in time, we stored our luggage and ventured out. First, we had our favorite Bibimbap and Korean spicy rice cake for lunch, and then we decided to walk to Namsan Park and see the iconic N Seoul Tower. It was a long walk from our hotel to the tower, but the park's natural beauty and serene atmosphere offered a delightful escape from bustling city life. We had our coffee and sweets at the Tower Plaza, where several shops and café located, but we didn't go up to the top of the Tower to avoid crowded indoor spaces. One of the well-known attractions at the Tower is the love locks. So many love locks in all shapes and colors are hanging at every railing at the base of the Tower, providing a pretty unique scene. We walked back to the hotel, accumulating 17,000+ steps in total.

April 10: We got exhausted yesterday from the early morning train ride and afternoon hiking, so we decided to slow down and take it easy today. The street in the early morning was tranquil, and most shops were still closed. We visited the nearby Myeongdong Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral Church of St. Mary the Virgin, a significant religious and historical landmark in the heart of Seoul, South Korea. It holds great importance as the first Catholic church established in Korea. The cathedral is an impressive cityscape structure with its Gothic Revival architectural style. The underground shopping center hosting various coffee shops and restaurants is underneath the church. We took a leisurely stroll around the area dotted with numerous banks and financial institutions, spending a couple of hours exploring before heading back to the hotel to unwind and rest.

In the afternoon, we walked around the Myeongdong area and went to the Lotte Mall, not to shop, just to have dinner there. We stopped by the food court, which was huge with so many different vendors. We ordered the food from two separate booths, and each gave a location tag. We settled at a table, and the waitress soon brought the dishes to us since they knew where we sat by tracking the location tag. It turned out to be an incredibly gratifying dinner experience.

April 11: After relaxing and light in activity yesterday, we ventured out to the Cheonggye Plaza area early in the morning. The weather was overcast and occasionally dripping a little. We took the subway to the City Hall first. The streets were quiet, and not too many pedestrians. Existed from the subway station, the first encounter on the road was a temporary white tent next to the city hall. It was a memorial and protest site dedicated to the 159 young people who tragically died in the Halloween tragedy in Seoul last year.

The Deoksugung Palace was built during the Joseon Dynasty, a historical palace near the city hall in the center of Seoul, South Korea. Because of the weather, there were not many visitors. During the late 19th century, it became a royal residence and administrative center for the Joseon kings. What is unique is that the palace grounds feature traditional Korean architecture and Western-style buildings, reflecting its particular Joseon period, which we were unfamiliar with. Near the end of the Joseon period, Korea opened up to the influence of Western countries. There is a Daehan Empire History Museum inside the Palace. Tours are available in Seokjojeon Hall, a royal residence built for the emperor and empress. Since we didn't want to wait hours for a tour in English, we joined the tour in Korean with the help of an Audio guide instead. We had a great time in the museum and learned a few bits about the Joseon Dynasty.

4月9日回首尔。二天前只买到二张一早回首尔的站票。走的前一天也和女主人打了招呼，我们要赶火车，等不到吃早餐了。大清早街上没人，非常安静。我们稍微走了一小段路才叫到出租车去火车站。在车站里喝杯咖啡吃个面包后，就去车台等车。在车台上，游客不少。我们知道火车两节车厢之间在上下门的地方会有两个小折座椅供站票旅客使用，因为我们这里并不是火车的起点站，我们担心这两个座位是否还在。火车来了，很幸运，就我们俩是站票。高高兴兴坐在车厢连接区回首尔，二个小时感觉像包厢似的，只是每到一站必须站起来让其他旅客上下火车。

再次回到首尔，这次我们换了个旅馆，同样还是在最热闹的明洞区，位置更中心。我们选择了一家位于繁华的明洞中心的酒店。由于抵达酒店的时间比指定的入住时间早，我们寄存了行李，然后徒步外出。正好是午餐时间，我们品尝了我们最喜欢的韩国美食--石锅拌饭和韩国辣年糕。接着，我们步行前往Namsan公园，那里有标志性的首尔塔。从我们的旅馆到公园路挺远的， 好在公园沿途风景不错。因为不想往人堆里挤就没上塔顶，而是在塔的底层喝了咖啡吃了甜点休息一下。首尔塔还有一个著名景点是爱情锁，每个栏杆上都挂满了形状各异、颜色斑斓的爱情锁，呈现出一个非常独特的场景。最后，我们步行返回酒店，一天累积了17,000+步。

4月10日：昨天因为大清早赶火车和下午徒步去首尔塔，我们觉得有点累，所以今天就放松一下。清晨的街道非常安静，大多数商店仍然关门。我们参观了附近的明洞大教堂，也被称为圣母玛利亚大教堂，是韩国首尔市中心的重要宗教和历史地标。它是韩国建立的第一个天主教堂，具有重要意义。凭借其哥特式复兴建筑风格，大教堂在城市景观中是一个令人印象深刻的建筑。拥有各种咖啡馆和餐馆的地下购物中心位于教堂下方。周围地区有许多银行和其他金融机构，我们悠闲地逛了二，三个小时之后返回酒店休息。

下午，我们继续在明洞地区走走，来到Lotte购物中心。并不是想购物，而是在那里用晚餐。购物中心地下的美食广场非常大，有许许多多不同的供应各种美食的摊位。我们从二个摊位点了不同的菜，然后找了一张桌子坐下，几分钟后工作人员将食物送到我们的桌子上。 这一顿吃得非常满足，很享受着各种美味的韩国美食。

4月11日：经过昨天的小憩后，我们一大早就前往Cheonggye广场地区。天空阴沉，偶尔还下几滴雨。我们乘坐地铁前往市政厅。街道照旧是非常的安静，行人稀少。从地铁站出来，我们首先看到的是市政厅旁边的一个临时白色帐篷。这个帐篷是一个纪念和抗议场所，用于纪念去年在首尔万圣节悲剧中不幸死亡的159名年轻人。

德寿宫（Deoksugung Palace）是一座位于韩国首尔市中心市政厅附近的具有悠久历史的宫殿，建于朝鲜王朝时期。在19世纪后期，它成为朝鲜国王的皇家住所和行政中心。该宫殿独特之处在于融合了传统的韩国建筑风格和西方建筑风格，展现了朝鲜时代我们不太熟悉的一面。而在朝鲜时代的末期，韩国开始受到西方国家的影响，这在宫殿的设计中也可见一斑。由于天气原因，游客并不多。德寿宫内设有大韩帝国历史博物馆，而石祖殿（Seokjojeon Hall）则是为天皇和皇后建造的皇家住所。可以进石祖殿参观，但以韩语为主。由于我们不想等几个小时参加英语导览，我们加入了韩语组，依靠语音指南跟着导游走。博物馆值得一看，我们也学到了一些关于朝鲜王朝的知识。

Jeonju 全州

April 7: We originally planned to take a bus to Jeonju, but we changed our plans at the last minute and took a morning train instead. However, we couldn't find the express train tickets online, so we went to the train station in person to only get the tickets for non-direct rides. We had to transfer trains; unfortunately, the second-leg train was almost fully booked. Our seats were not even in the same train car. Initially, we were unaware of this situation and thought there was just an aisle separating us. However, after boarding the train, we noticed someone had already occupied one of two seats, and we assumed it was a mistake on their part. Even the train staff were initially confused and took a while to realize that one of our seats was in a different car. After experiencing the difficulty of buying train tickets today, our first task upon arriving in Jeonju was to secure our tickets back to Seoul two days later. To our astonishment, almost all the train tickets for that day were already sold out. There are more than ten trains going to Seoul every day, but only the earliest two trains in the morning had tickets left, and they were only standing tickets in the connecting area between two train cars. With no other choice, we quickly bought the tickets.

The most famous attraction in Jeonju is the traditional Hanok Village, so we decided to stay in a Hanok house to experience it fully. Finding a room in the village wasn't easy, but we found one smaller than two beds combined with a private bathroom. With the absence of conventional beds and chairs, we knew that sleeping on the blankets on the floor might be challenging for us. We hope our stay in the Hanok house will give us a unique and immersive experience. The Taxi ride from the train station to the village was quick, and we found our Hanok house without much trouble. The host welcomed us warmly and explained some rules we had to follow when staying in a Hanok house, such as taking shoes off before entering the building, wiping off the suitcase's wheels before taking it inside the room, etc.

After dropping off our luggage, we went to find something to eat. We went to a restaurant recommended by our host and ordered Tteokgalbi and Bibimbap in a hot stone bowl for two. Tteokgalbi is a popular Korean dish made from ground pork ribs like burger patties in the U.S., seasoned with various ingredients such as soy sauce, garlic, sesame oil, and spices, and then grilled over charcoal. It was delicious.

The Hanok Village has two bustling main streets filled with a vibrant atmosphere. You'll find numerous food stalls, restaurants, and souvenir shops along these streets. The roads are often crowded with locals and tourists exploring the area and enjoying the cultural offerings. Many rental shops offer traditional costumes. These shops allow visitors to immerse themselves in the culture by dressing in beautiful hanbok (traditional Korean clothing). It's a lovely sight to witness people of all ages, both locals and tourists, strolling through the village in conventional attire, capturing pictures of timeless moments and creating a captivating atmosphere. It may also allow Korean people to preserve and celebrate Korean cultural heritage in the village.

We first visited Gyeonggijeon, the most famous tourist attraction in the village. Gyeonggijeon, built in 1410, was dedicated to enshrine the portrait of King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty. The portrait hanging in the main hall now is a replica, while the authentic one is kept in the Portrait Museum, which was closed for renovation. In Gyeonggijeon, Koreans dressed in traditional costumes took photos and made timeless memories. Some places had long queues for taking pictures because they appeared in many historical Korean movies and TV dramas. Since we were unfamiliar with Korean history or dramas, we just walked around casually, enjoying the lively atmosphere.

More people were on the street when we came out from Gyeonggijeon. Some shops had long lines. We took a coffee break at one popular café, did some people-watching, and just enjoyed the afternoon. 

In the evening, we went to the night market and joined the locals in queuing for a famous thin meat pancake featured on a reality TV show. It tasted excellent. We also tried different flavors of steamed dumplings, red bean buns, and grilled pork belly skewers. Each food stall at the night market sold something different, so we had the opportunity to try various dishes.

April 8: How was our sleeping on Yo, the traditional Korean-style bedding, last night? The experience of sleeping on the floor varied for each person. Chenggang found sleeping on his back the most comfortable position during the night on the floor. The heated floor provided warmth and coziness, enhancing the sleeping experience. However, there were certain inconveniences, particularly when it came to using the toilet during the night.

On the other hand, for those who preferred sleeping on their side or had joint and back issues, the experience was quite uncomfortable. Within half an hour, Connie started experiencing pain and discomfort. Additionally, getting up from the floor posed a challenge due to the absence of furniture or support. It often resulted in straining the back again. It took some time for her to stand straight, and she felt that she had become one of those hunchbacked old ladies we had seen on the streets of Korea. After a restless night and waking up with pain all over her body, Connie vowed never to stay in such accommodations again in the pursuit of experiencing local life. But we hope the memory will be short, and we will put experience over short-term discomfort again.

In the morning, a simple breakfast was served in our room. The host lady brought a tray for each of us, consisting of two slices of toasted bread, jam, a few apple slices, and two bowls of sesame porridge. The room was tiny, and there was only a little space left near the entrance since the blankets were spread out and covered most of the floor. The host told us to fold the blankets, put them aside, and have breakfast where we slept. It was indeed a multi-purpose floor. It looked like it was covered with a floorboard, but it was traditional Korean paper. That was why when we arrived yesterday, the host specifically asked us to clean the wheels of our luggage before bringing them into the room to prevent the paper from getting dirty and damaged.

The compactness of the Hanok house and the minimalist furnishings reminded us of the simplicity and elegance of traditional Korean architecture. The small bathroom, although essential, served its purpose adequately. We appreciated the effort to maintain the conventional design even in the bathroom, adding to the overall authenticity of the Hanok house experience. Staying in a Hanok house was a departure from the usual hotel accommodations, which may not be comfortable. Still, the overall experience gave us a deeper appreciation for the rich cultural heritage of Jeonju.

After breakfast, we walked across a bridge to venture out of Hanok Village and had a cup of morning Latte in the art district. In the neighborhood, we encountered an artist who had set up a small art garden decorated with beautiful pinwheels on the street. He enthusiastically invited us to take photos in front of his artwork and encouraged us to post them on social media to give him a thumbs-up. Then we walked along the river and over the bridge to the Nambu market, just missing the weekend market.

We didn't stay too in the market. We ventured near the city gate, where a Korean youth dance competition was scheduled. We were excited to witness the vibrant performances of the young participants. However, despite waiting patiently for over half an hour, the competition had not yet commenced. Realizing it might take longer, after seeing a short practice run, we decided to leave the area and explore other parts of the village.

When it was time to satisfy our hunger again, we went to a place we had an eye on it yesterday. Jeonju is Bibimbap's birthplace and is one of our favorite Korean dishes. In the United States, we call it stone pot rice because the rice and vegetables are served in a hot stone pot. After coming to Korea, we found that most restaurants only serve it in stainless steel bowls, and although the taste is still good, it doesn't have the same sizzling flavor as when served in a hot stone pot. We decided to try it today when we passed a restaurant yesterday and saw they did Bibimbap in a hot stone pot. The stone pot Bibimbap was better than the stainless steel bowl version, but we still felt the ones in the U.S. suited our taste better. We also ordered a small pork rib soup, which tasted good. On Saturday, the streets were filled with visitors, most locals, and the cars were not allowed to enter the village.

After a satisfying meal, we climbed to Wansanhilbong Peak in Wansan Park. The mountain has historical significance in Korean history. At the top, we had a panoramic view of the Hanok Village and Jeonju.

Walking down from the park, we went to the mural village outside of Hanok Village. In the mural village, the exterior walls of every house were painted with various colorful murals, bringing new life to the originally old and simple dwellings.

Back in Hanok Village, we returned to the area near the city gate where the dance competition had started. We watched for a while and then went to the nearby night market. We ordered another portion of the thin meat pancake we had just eaten the previous night, and a large box of fried mini crabs served as our dinner. We didn't finish fried crabs; just too much grease food today.

Tomorrow we will return to Seoul, and our journey of exploring Korean cuisine and experiencing the local culture will slowly end. Our daughter summed up our trip to Korea quite well: EAT, EAT, EAT.

4/7: 原本准备乘坐大巴去全州的，临时改坐上午的火车去那里，网上没法买到我们想坐的快车，我们就直接去车站，买到车票但需要中转一下。中转后那一段的火车满座，我们俩座位还不是在一个车厢。开始我们还没认识到，以为只是隔了个走道。上车后看别人已坐在其中一个位子，以为别人坐错了。车上工作人员开始也没搞懂，看了老半天才发现我们的一个位子是在另外一个车廂。有了今天火车票难买的经历，到了全州后在火车站第一件事就是把二天之后回首尔的车票先搞定。一问吓一跳，那天的火车票几乎已全部卖完。每天有十几班火车去首尔却只有早上最早的二班还有票，且只剩站票，只能站在二节车厢的连接区。没别的选择，我们就赶紧把票买了。

全州市里最著名的就是传统的韩屋村，去韩屋村玩就该试一下住韩屋里。房间不容易订，我们这次订到了一间几乎比二个床还小的房间，没床没椅子，被子就放地上，晚上摊开就直接睡地上。还好小房间有个小卫生间。今晚睡在地上不知会怎样的感觉。

放下行李后，先去找东西吃。在房东推荐的一家饭店里要了两人份的Tteokgalbi+石锅饭。Tteokgalbi是用猪排肉做的肉饼，是当地特色，非常好吃。

然后就开始在小村里逛。整个韩屋村有二条大街，两旁有不少小吃店，饭店和纪念品专卖店，街上挤满了游客。到处都是出租传统服装的店，租的人还真不少。路上到处都是穿着漂亮传统服装的人，看着很养眼。我们先来到庆基殿，也是小村里最有名的旅游景点。修建于1410年的庆基殿是为了供放朝鲜开朝皇帝李太祖的遗像。现在悬挂在真殿里的太祖遗像当然是假的，真品在肖像博物馆里，但博物馆正在修整没开放。在庆基殿里，韩国人穿着传统服装在那里拍照留念。因为这地方出现在许多历史电影及电视剧中，所以有些地方排长队照相。我们不熟悉韩国的历史和韩剧，就随便走走看看热闹了。

晚上去夜市场跟着当地人排着长队要一份上过电视节目的薄肉蛋饼，味道的确不错。又吃了不同味道的蒸饺，豆沙包子，还有烤五花肉串。觉得这个夜巿场各个摊位卖的东西都不太一样，这样我们就可以多吃点。

4/8: 昨晚睡地上的感觉因人而异。我觉的还可以，朝天睡是最好姿势。地是加热的，睡在地上暖呼呼，就半夜去厕所有点麻烦。但有人是喜欢侧睡的，且关节和腰都不好，那就不是一点点受罪了。不到半小时就已经疼得不行。腰不好的她从地上爬起来也难，没家俱也就没个搭手的地方，很容易再闪着腰。好不容易爬起来了，却半天也直不起腰，自嘲像极了街上那些驼背弯腰的韩国老太。她一晩上几乎没怎么睡着，早上起来浑身上下都痛，发誓以后再也不住这样的旅馆跟着体验生活了。

一早女房东就送来了简单的早餐，二片烤面包，一点果酱，几片苹果和二碗芝麻糊。房间实在太小，被子铺开就只剩下门口一点点的空间了。女主人告诉我们把被子折起来放边上，在睡觉地方吃早餐。还真是一地多用。地上看着像铺了地板，但其实是一种韩国传统的纸。昨天刚来的时候，主人特地让我们把行李箱的轮子都擦干净后才带进房间，怕弄脏弄坏了这层纸。

上午去韩屋村周围转转，在艺术家小村里碰到一位艺术家在街头搞了个小艺术花园，热心地拉着我们在他的艺术作品前拍照，可放在社交媒体上，为他拉点赞。来到城门楼旁，那里正在举行韩国少年舞蹈比赛，小年轻们都在那里准备，都是那种街头舞，等了半个多小时也没见正式开始。

又到找地方垫肚子的时候了，今天去的地方是昨天就选好的，全州是Bibimbap 的发源地，又是我们最爱韩菜之一，在美国我们叫石锅饭，饭和菜放在滚烫的热石锅里。来韩国后，发现大多数餐厅只卖放在不锈钢碗里那种，味道虽可以，但就没有石锅里吃得香喷喷，所以昨天路过这一家饭店看见有这种热石锅的，就说今天来这里试试。这热石锅拌饭就是比不锈钢碗里的好，但还是觉得美国的更合我们口味。还叫了小排骨汤，味道不错。

酒足饭饱后又徒步去了韩屋村外的壁画村。在壁画村里，家家户户的外墙上都画着各色各样的壁画，给原本破旧简陋的小屋带来新的生机。

回到韩屋村内，再次来到城门楼旁，舞蹈大赛已开始，凑热闹看了一阵之后便去了附近的夜市。又要了一份昨晚刚吃过的肉蛋薄饼，再加一大盒油炸小蟹算是今晚夜餐，油炸食品吃多了会腻，油炸小螃蟹居然没吃完。

明天要启程回首尔了，品韩菜看热闹之行就要慢慢地拉下帷幕。女儿对我们这次韩国游总结得很好：吃，吃，吃！

Busan/Gyeongju 釜山/庆州

April 4: Upon arrival in Busan, our hotel room wasn't ready, so we left our luggage there and went to the nearby Bupyeong KKangtong Market to search for local snacks. It was a big market, and we quickly got lost there. We tried a few snacks, including spicy rice cake, fried squid, chive pancakes, and unique green rice balls wrapped with red bean paste.

Following a satisfying lunch, we returned to the hotel for a brief rest before exploring the renowned Gamcheon Culture Village. This picturesque locale, characterized by its colorful houses and narrow alleyways, was a must-visit destination. We went up and down through alleyways and enjoyed the excursion. We climbed up the “Stairs to See Stars”, felt a little tired but not dizzy. Many tourists waited in line to take photos with the statue of the Little Prince and the fox overlooking the whole village, a Social Media hotspot.

We returned to the city for dinner and enjoyed a delicious Korean barbecue feast. The flavorsome grilled meats were accompanied by an array of traditional side dishes and a delicious crab and clam soup. With our appetites satiated, we revisited the market from earlier in the day, taking advantage of its convenient proximity to our hotel. The evening market had transformed, featuring numerous mobile food stalls offering a variety of tempting snacks. Despite their attractive appearances, we decided to save these treats for the following night.

April 5: Busan greeted us with a continuous downpour. Undeterred, we remained committed to our original plan of taking a bus to Gyeongju, the ancient capital of Korea, located one hundred kilometers away. Unfortunately, the inclement weather persisted in Gyeongju, with strong winds adding a chilly touch. After reaching our destination, we boarded a local bus to Bulguksa Temple. Before immersing ourselves in its tranquil ambiance, we savored a delicious Bulgogi set meal nearby. This particular style of Bulgogi differed from the grilled version we had encountered in the U.S., as the ingredients were boiled in water, resembling a hot pot with less broth. Nevertheless, the flavors were still exceptional.

Notably, Bulguksa Temple differed from other temples in its lack of burning incense, and visitors were required to remove their shoes before entering the temple halls. As we made our way towards the temple, cherry blossom trees adorned the surroundings; however, the heavy rain and wind had unfortunately damaged most of the blossoms.

After visiting Bulguksa Temple, we opted to take a taxi to the East Palace and Moon Pond, which was reconstructed in recent years. Given the wet and cold weather conditions, our enthusiasm for exploring further waned, leading us to return to Busan via train.

Outside Busan Station, we went to a renowned fish cake shop, Samjin Eomuk, offering a diverse selection of fish cake products. Curiosity piqued, we sampled rice cake/fish cake, and green pepper fish cake. While the rice cake/fish cake didn't leave a lasting impression, the green pepper fish cake stood out with its delicious filling of various meats and shrimp. Busan's streets and markets are packed with fish cake vendors, offering locals a satisfying and convenient snack.

We revisited the nearby market for dinner, only to realize that the mobile food stalls from the previous night had yet to arrive. It appeared they were exclusive to the late-night market. Nonetheless, the permanent stalls remained open, allowing us to indulge in local food. Our feast consisted of deep-fried delicacies such as cuttlefish, shrimp, fish sticks, mixed noodles, spicy rice cakes, and fish cakes. After several days of culinary indulgence, it was safe to say our blood sugar levels were likely to rise.

April 6: We had been away from home for a whole week and had been busy every day since, so we decided to take a well-deserved rest. In the morning, we explored the vicinity of our hotel in search of a typical local breakfast but were disappointed to find nothing exceptional. Undeterred, we went to the nearby market and found that most stalls were still closed. We continued our search. Fortunately, the weather was favorable, offering ideal conditions for outdoor activities. We first visited the renowned Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) street and were pleasantly surprised to find a few mobile food stalls open. We couldn't resist indulging in delicious steamed buns that resembled steamed dumplings. Subsequently, we made our way to the Jagalchi seafood market. Unfortunately, the indoor area was undergoing renovation, discouraging us from venturing inside. However, the outdoor stalls stretched endlessly, showcasing an astonishing variety of seafood we had never encountered before in the morning. Continuing our stroll along the seaside, we eventually reached Lotte Mall, a large shopping center resembling those in other parts of the world.

After briefly exploring the mall, we ascended to the top floor, discovering a specialized Bulgogi restaurant. The menu presented four different types of Bulgogi, yet we struggled to fully grasp the distinctions despite our attempts to communicate with the waitress.With her phone's translation feature, the waitress explained that one version came with soup while the others did not. Intrigued, we opted for the soup option. Relying on our phones for further translation, we uncovered that two varieties featured Korean beef, while the remaining two offered American beef. We naturally opted for Korean beef. It wasn't until the dishes arrived that we realized the key difference between the soup and non-soup versions was the marinade. Adding to the amusement, we discovered that the disparity between Korean and American beef lay not in the type of beef itself but rather in the grilling method. Korean Bulgogi was traditionally boiled, while the American version aligned more closely with what we had experienced in the U.S., being grilled. Unfortunately, the translation apps on our phones struggled to provide accurate assistance during our time in Korea, and the live translation earphones we had bought before the trip was a total failure.

After lunch, we ascended to the rooftop garden. This beautifully designed and expansive space offered panoramic views of Busan, leaving a lasting impression.

Upon descending from the garden, we made our way to the famous Busan Tower, conveniently located not far from the mall. Continuing our leisurely walk, we passed the seafood market again, realizing we had only explored a small section in the morning. To our surprise, the market stretched far and wide, not only offering fresh seafood but also a variety of dried goods in Nampo-dong Dried Fish Wholesale Market nearby. Adjacent to the market, modest seafood stalls housed within large tents made of plastic sheets for protection. With the coal-fired barbecue grills outside, tables and chairs were arranged inside the tents, inviting visitors to relish the abundance of fresh and raw ingredients.

As we made our way back, we found ourselves passing through BIFF Street once again. Now there are more vendors on the street. This time, we couldn't resist trying a unique dish called Korean pancake with melon seeds. While Korean fried chicken, highly praised in the U.S., was not as popular as anticipated, we did come across a few places offering it. Since we had a heavy lunch, we visited a chain restaurant, Lotteria, for dinner. We ordered chicken wings that surpassed our expectations, surpassing even the renowned KFC.

Tomorrow a new adventure is waiting for us.

4/4: 上午坐火车去釜山市，韩国第二大城市。在坐Taxi去火车站之前在旅馆旁边的安东老城及传统文化博物馆区转了一圈，那里的建筑非常漂亮。从安东去釜山的火车三个半小时左右，没有快速子弹车，不过一路还算舒服。到了釜山，旅馆的房间还没好，我们把行李寄放在那里就匆匆去附近的集市找小吃。要了鱼饼辣年糕，炸尤鱼，韮菜葱油饼和豆沙青团。他们的豆沙青团是青团包在豆沙里。集市非常大，走进去会迷路的。

午餐后回到旅馆小息后就去甘川文化村，那里有色彩鲜艳的小屋和狭窄的小巷，是值得一去的地方。有个什么网红点在最上面，好多人排着长队等着和小王子拍照。

晚饭回城里吃韩国烤肉，除了有韩国小菜外，还给螃蟹蛤蜊汤，味道都不错。吃饱喝足又再次来到中午刚去过的集市，因为就在住的旅馆旁边，太方便了。晚上的集市多了许多卖不同小吃的移动摊位，看着嘴馋，可实在吃不动了，留着明天晚上再来吧。

4/5: 今天的釜山一整天都在下雨，我们还是按原计划坐大巴去一百公里外庆州，朝鲜的古都。庆州同样是下雨天，风还特别大，特别冷。到了庆州后又乘坐当地公交车去城外的佛国寺，先在寺庙旁的小镇上要了Bulgogi套餐为午餐，这里的Bulgogi不像美国的那样烤的，而是放在水里煮的，有点像吃火锅，但没那么多汤水，味道还算可以。佛国寺与国内的寺庙不同的地方就是没见人烧香，另外必须脱鞋进寺堂。一路走到佛国寺，周边全是樱花树，只可惜我们错过了，这场大风大雨将樱花打得所剩无几。参观完佛国寺，我们叫了出租车去东宫和月池，很漂亮但都是近年复造的。参观这二处古迹后，因为天实在是又湿又冷，没了兴致再去看其它的，我们便坐火车回釜山。在釜山站外去了一家有名的鱼饼店，店里各色各样鱼饼食品，我们要了年糕鱼饼和青椒鱼饼，年糕鱼饼没什么特别，但青椒鱼饼昧道很不错，里面塞了各种肉，虾之类的。在釜山这里到处都是卖各式鱼饼的，集市里，马路上全都是，吃上一串鱼饼就算垫饥了。

晚饭又去了附近集市，发现昨晚上看到的移动摊位一个都还没来，还真只做夜市的。固定摊位还都在，我们就继续吃当地的小吃，各种油炸的尤龟，虾，鱼条都试试，拌粉条，当然还有辣年糕和鱼饼。估计这几天下来，血糖指标要直线上升了。

4/6: 离家整整一个星期了，每天都在不停地赶东赶西，有点累，今天就休息一下。一早先去旅馆周围看看有什么当地的特色早餐，很失望啥都没见着。又去旁边的集市看看，好像韩国人不早起，大部分摊位还没开，两人只能继续找。正好今天天气不错，适合在外面走走。先来到有名的BIFF（釜山国际电影节）街上，很意外地发现有几个移动摊位已经开始营业了。买了份蒸包子，应该说更像蒸饺子，好吃。接着走去海鲜市场看看，室内区在装修，我们没进去，外面的摊位一眼望不到头，有些海鲜从来没有见过。继续沿着海边散步，不一会儿就来到Lotte 商城，感觉和中国的大商城很像。走马观花看过便来到十楼的餐厅层，又找了一家做bulgogi的饭店。菜单上有四种不同Bulgogi，与服务员说了半天也没搞懂。她用手机从韩文翻译成英文，说是一种有汤一种没汤，我们觉得奇怪，什么叫一个有汤一个没汤呢，那就要有汤的。我们也用我们的手机把菜单翻了一下，两个是韩国牛肉，两个是美国牛肉，到韩国当然要吃韩国的牛肉。当上菜后我们才恍然大悟，有汤没汤就是腌没腌，最好笑的是韩国牛肉和美国牛肉的差别不是牛肉而是不同的烧烤方法，韩国Bulgogi是水煮的而美国的才是烤的，就像在美国吃到的那种，这次来韩国翻译软件不太管用，临行前特地买的翻译耳机更是失败。

饭后来到屋顶花园，花园造得很别致，大得离谱，在上面可以看到釜山的全景。下了花园便来到离商城不远的釜山一景的塔和公园，也算是到此一游。左转又转又来到海鲜市场，发现上午我们才走了一小段，基本以新鲜的海产品为主。而整个海鲜市场其实大得惊人，不只卖新鲜的，还有干货。两旁还有破陋的海鲜小吃摊，用塑料布做的大帐篷，中间放桌子和椅子，外面放一个用煤的烧烤炉，反正原材料到处都是，而且还新鲜。

往回走时又路过BIFF街，来了份油煎饼夹瓜仁，很特别。在美国，都说韩国炸鸡很好吃，来后也看到几家卖炸鸡的，但并非到处都是。中午吃多了，晚餐就去一家连锁店要四个炸鸡翅，味道比KFC上口。

Andong 安东

April 3: In the early morning, we departed from Seoul by taking South Korea's state-of-the-art high-speed train to reach the ancient central city of Andong. After storing our luggage at the bus station, we went to the tourist office at the station to find out the information on the local transportation to the Andong Hahoe Village. Knowing that we won't be able to catch the bus to Hahoe Village in a few minutes, we went to the café in the station for a cup of Latte and a pastry and took a rest. We hopped on a local bus one hour later. In most cities in Korea, we can use T-Card we bought in Seoul for public transportation. We got off at the ticket office of the village, purchased the tickets, and boarded the free shuttle taking us to the village.

Once we got off the shuttle, we were greeted by a breathtaking display of cherry blossoms on the causeway stretching alongside the river. Our timing was impeccable, as it was spring, and the cherry blossoms had bloomed in their full glory. Rather than heading directly to the village, we decided to take a stroll along the walkway. The beauty of the cherry blossoms washed away any fatigue accumulated from our long journey, leaving us rejuvenated and captivated by the enchanting scenery of Korea's renowned cherry blossoms.

The Hahoe Village is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hahoe Village was established in the 14th-15th century by the Ryu clan, a renowned Korean family that produced prominent scholars and statesmen. With the village surrounded by water on three sides and backed by the scenic Flower Mountain, it truly is a place of excellent Feng Shui. The village's traditional tiled and thatched houses have been remarkably well-preserved to this day, and there are still a few residents living there. As we explored the village, we were pleased to see the meticulous restoration work, resembling what we had seen in Korean dramas. There were not too many tourists, creating a serene and peaceful atmosphere. Our impression of Hahoe Village was quite positive, and it is definitely worth a visit.

After we visited Hahoe Village, we took the bus back to the bus station, picked up our luggage, and hopped on the taxi to go to the city center of Andong, where our hotel was located. After a brief rest, we headed to the nearby market in the old town.

The most famous Andong dish is Andong Jjimdak, a savory stewed chicken. Next to the market, an entire street is dedicated to serve the chicken dish, named Andong Jjimdak Street. This street is lined with over a dozen restaurants specializing in this dish. The stewed chicken was essentially braised chicken pieces with a few potatoes, carrots, and plenty of potato noodles. Each restaurant had several stoves set up outside for on-the-spot cooking. We ordered a small portion, but to our surprise, it arrived in an enormous pot that startled us. We couldn't even imagine what the large portion would look like. It felt like each portion was equivalent to a whole chicken. The taste was truly delightful, with a hint of spiciness and sweetness. In addition to the stewed chicken, Andong cuisine featured fried salted fish and Soju (Rice Wine). However, the shops only sold chicken and had no salted fish. While they did have rice wine, a bottle of it would be way too much for the two of us to handle, who don't drink alcohol. So we decided not to order it. We'll have to seize another opportunity to try salted fish in the future.

April 4: Before leaving for the train station, we took the opportunity to explore the captivating Andong Old Town and Traditional Cultural Museum near our hotel and see a Buddhist temple in the morning. The street was quiet, and we took pictures of the mural along the road. Then we called a taxi to the train station, had coffee and huge egg tart at the station cafe, and embarked on a morning journey to Busan, South Korea's second-largest city.

4/3: 一早离开了首尔乘坐韩国最先进的高速火车来到中部古城安东，把行李寄放在公交车站里之后，乘坐当地的公交车来到被列为世界遗产名录的河口村参观。春暖花开，正好碰上樱花盛开的时候，两人慢步在长堤上把这几天长途旅行带来的疲劳抛在脑后。河口村是建于公元十四 - 十五世纪的韩国柳氏家族的村落，在那里出了大儒家和宰相。这小村三面环水，背靠花山，真是风水宝地。村内的瓦房和草房均完好保存至今。现在还有少许人住在那里。我们在村里走走，小村修复得不错，就像韩剧中看到那样。游客不算多，非常安静。对河口村印象挺好，值得一去。

参观完河口村后，坐公交车回车站取了行李， 叫了出租车来到安东城中的旅馆。

小息后，去旅馆附近的安东炖鸡小街上吃韩国有名的美食 - 安东炖鸡。这条街上有十几家专做炖鸡的店，我们点了份小的炖鸡，结果上来一特大盆，吓我们一跳，真不知道点大份的会是什么样的盆。炖鸡实际上就像是红烧鸡块，加少许土豆，胡萝卜，还有许多红薯粉条。每家店外放几个炉子，当场现烧。感觉每份就是一只鸡，估计我们要了一只小鸡，吃了不少，味道还真不错，有点小辣有点甜味。除了炖鸡，安东美食还有炸咸鱼和烧酒，店里只卖鸡没有咸鱼，烧酒倒是有，可一瓶烧酒对我们二个不会喝酒的人来说肯定喝不完，所以就没点。咸鱼也只能以后有机会再尝试了。

4/4: 上午坐火车去釜山市，韩国第二大城市。在坐出租车去火车站之前在旅馆旁边的安东老城及传统文化博物馆区转了一圈，那里的建筑非常漂亮。在火车站的咖啡馆吃了早点之后， 登上去釜山的火车。

DMZ, Korean 非军事区

April 1: We left home on March 31 and flew to Seoul, South Korea, with a layover in Honolulu. Direct flight from the U.S. mainland to Asia usually takes between 12 to 15 hours these days, which becomes too long for our aging bodies. We tried to find a better way to handle the long journey. We booked Hawaiian Airlines in Economy Cabin but upgraded to the exit row with extra legroom. The wide-body jet usually has ample open space at the exit door. The flight was still long, about 7~8 hours for each segment, but since we had a stop at Honolulu in the middle of the flight and with the extra legroom, the flight was not too bad.

After a 23-hour-long journey, we finally arrived in Seoul, the capital of South Korea, on the evening of April 1. Our hotel was in Myeongdong district, the city center, but the Incheon International Airport was far away from the city. The express train from the airport to Seoul Station was convenient. The hotel reception was entirely replaced by robots, not a single person in sight. We checked in with the robot and our room was the smallest hotel room we ever had stayed. After dropping off our luggage, we ventured out to the nearby Myeongdong Night Market. We ordered grilled octopus, grilled beef, and stir-fried potato noodles, and although the taste was good, the prices were a bit higher than the dishes in the nearby small restaurants.

April 2: We had to wake up early before 6 am and boarded a tourist bus to visit the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) on the 38th parallel. When we booked the tickets, the meeting time was initially scheduled for 7 am, but it was changed to 6 am after payment. We arrived at the Imjingak Pyeonghwa Nuri Park a little after 7, and already more than a dozen buses were parked in the parking lot. It seemed that others had woken up even earlier. We met a Dutch couple who said they gathered to leave the city at 5 am. The tour guide collected our passports and rushed to the ticket office to buy tickets. After thirty minutes, he returned and said the tickets were purchased and we would enter the DMZ at 2:30 in the afternoon. However, the ticket office wouldn't open until 9 am, so he must have arranged for someone to queue up and buy tickets for us.

Before heading to the DMZ, we had six hours to spare. We first strolled around the Imjingak part of Imjingak Pyeonghwa Nuri Park, the memorial area, and had breakfast. Imjingak Park has many statues and monuments regarding the Korean War, including Mangbaeddan, Monument to US Forces in the Korean War, Peace Train, and a bunker. There is also a selection of restaurants and an observation deck.

Then they drove us to the nearby Suspension Bridge Park to enjoy the beautiful scenery. We made a short stop at the Gloster Hill Memorial Park, commemorating the Gloucestershire Regiment's actions during the Battle of the Imjin River during the war. The original memorial and the recent expansion of the park are both thoughtfully designed and emotionally stirring.

Another memorial dedicated to the Gloucester Regiment, Gloucester Heroes Bridge, is not too far from the Memorial Park. The suspension bridge, which is over 220m long and 10m high, is the longest in South Korea. A small but quite beautiful Buddhist temple is on the hill at the end of the bridge. We did manage to climb up the mountain to visit the temple and back down to board the bus on time.

Returning to the park, we had lunch and continued leisurely walking on the other side, Pyeonghwa Nuri Park, also known as Peace Nuri Park. It is an extension of Imjingak Park and focuses on promoting peace and reunification. It features sculptures, art installations, and exhibition halls conveying peace and unity messages. We were fortunate to have good weather, with many people flying kites, young people camping and having picnics on the lawn, and even a music concert and amusement park. The colorful pinwheels were enjoyable to see. We sat there, drank coffee, and enjoyed the lively atmosphere.

The tour guide repeatedly emphasized the importance of returning to the bus on time for the DMZ. Finally, we arrived at the entrance of the DMZ. South Korean soldiers boarded the bus and checked our passports before the bus entered the control area. Our first stop was the Third Tunnel. It is said that North Korea had prepared sixteen tunnels to invade South Korea, and four of them have been discovered. The Third Tunnel is open to the public, and the tour guide jokingly mentioned that North Korea was so poor because they spent so much money on digging the tunnels, only for others to profit from them. Inside the tunnel, taller individuals had to stoop while walking, and we could constantly hear the sound of safety helmets hitting the ceiling. Chenggang was one of the victims. After the tunnel visit, we visited an observatory on the mountaintop to glimpse North Korea on the other side. With the clear weather, we could see people walking around the North Korean town through the telescope. Finally, in the Unification Village, we enjoyed some local soy milk ice cream, which tasted delicious.

The tour guide was amiable and well-informed, providing insightful information throughout the trip. However, he had a persistent cough that continued throughout. We sat in the front row, right beside him. During the return journey, he confided in us, revealing that he had contracted Covid a month ago and was still struggling to recover fully, mainly because he had lost his sense of smell. This revelation left us uneasy, but we allowed ourselves to relax a bit, assuming that we were adequately protected by our vaccination shots and had yet to contract the virus. We believed that we were somehow immune to the dangers of Covid.

After returning to Seoul, we went directly to a park along the Han River to see the cherry blossoms. Upon exiting the subway station, we found the place crowded with people. The lawn were fully occupied, and there were long queues to buy snacks. Young people stood in line to buy a bowl of instant noodles and sat on the ground to eat, embracing the ambiance. As elderly folks, we decided not to join the crowd and quickly returned to Myeongdong. We found a small restaurant near our hotel and enjoyed our favorite hot stone pot rice, seafood pancakes, and tofu soup. After the meal, we returned to our room to rest, knowing we had to wake up early the next day to continue our journey.

4/1: 经过整整二十三小时长途旅行后，在四月一号晚上到达韩国首都首尔。入住旅馆的前台完全被机器人代替了，一个人影都没有。放下行李后便马不停蹄地去了附近的明洞夜市，烤章鱼，烤牛肉和炒粉条各要了一份，味道还不错就是价格高了一点，比附近的小饭店里的菜还要贵。

4/2: 早早起床六点就上了旅游大巴去三八线的非军事区（DMZ)参观，订票时说是七点集合，钱付完后改成六点了，说是为了赶着买进非军事区的票。我们七点多一点就到和平公园，停车场上已经有十几辆大巴，看来别人比我们还早起，碰到一对荷兰的老外说他们五点集合离城的。导游把我们护照收起，赶着去售票处买票。过三十分钟后他回来说票买好了下午二点半进非军事区。但是售票处要九点才开，估计他肯定是找黄牛排队买票的。

在去非军事区前我们有六个小时打发，先在和平公园的纪念区转转，吃了个早点，然后去附近的吊桥公园看看，风景不错，我们还爬山去了山里的寺庙。再次回到和平公园，吃个午饭，接着在公园另一边走走，那里主要是当地人带孩子们休息玩耍的地方。正好赶上个好天气，好多人在放风筝，年轻人在草坪上搭上帐篷露营野餐，还有音乐会，游乐场。我们就在那里喝咖啡看热闹。

导游一再强调我们必须准时回大巴前往DMZ。终于来到非军事区的入口处，韩军小兵上车检查护照后，我们先去了第三隧道参观。据说北朝为了攻克南朝一共准备挖十六隧道，到目前为止已发现了四条。第三隧道对外开放，导游开玩笑说北朝所以穷就是花了那么多钱挖隧道，结果都让别人用来赚钱了。隧道里人高的必须弯腰走，一路就听见安全帽撞击的声音。隧道岀来又去山顶上的望远楼看看北朝鲜那一边。天气好，从望远镜里可以看到对面北朝鲜小镇上人走来走去。最后在统一小镇上吃上当地大豆冰淇淋，味道不错。

回到首尔后又直接去了汉河边的公园看樱花。出了地铁站后发现那里人山人海，草地全坐满人，买小吃都要排长队，年轻人排着长队买一碗泡面坐地上吃，他们要的是情调。我们老头老太就不凑热闹了，赶回明洞区，在旅馆边找了家小店，吃我们喜爱的石锅饭，海鲜饼和豆腐汤。饭后回房休息，明天又要早起继续我们的旅程。