Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 10 - Courmayeur 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第十天

August 5, 2024: Today marks the final day of our Mont Blanc adventure. We hiked the famed Val Veny Balcony Trail, a stunning section of the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) near Courmayeur. The trail is aptly named the "Balcony" because it offers unparalleled, panoramic views of Mont Blanc. The route is relatively long, winding along the mountainside, with steep ascents and descents at both ends. After yesterday’s 7-mile (11 km) hike, we were all feeling a bit fatigued, but we didn’t want to miss out on this last opportunity, so we decided to give it one more effort. At breakfast, we once again encountered the Australian couple, who were heading out for another day of UTMB race training. They gave us more words of encouragement, which lifted our spirits.

We took the free shuttle bus to the base of the mountain and began our ascent. It was clear that our legs were sore today, and climbing felt more challenging than usual. However, we were pleasantly surprised to find that we completed the first uphill section faster than expected. To save time, we decided not to stop at the first mountain hut (Refuge Bonatti) and pressed on. Shortly after, we crossed paths with the Australian couple again, who were running the same TMB route but in the opposite direction. They had already run 14 kilometers since leaving the hotel that morning and cheerfully told us that the trail ahead was beautiful. It seemed like fate that we kept encountering them just when we needed encouragement.

The next section of the trail was relatively flat, with fewer ups and downs, allowing us to walk directly towards Mont Blanc, getting closer with every step. We had planned to take a break and have lunch at the second mountain hut (Refuge Bertone), but it turned out to be much farther away than we had anticipated. After several hours of hiking, we finally spotted the roof, and our spirits soared. We enjoyed a well-deserved lunch and took a break at the hut before starting our final descent back to town.

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The descent was challenging, starting with a steep, rocky path. We even saw a hiker take a tumble right in front of us. Over the past few days, with steep and long trails, we’ve come to realize that descending can be more strenuous than ascending. However, knowing this was the final leg of our journey, we felt a sense of relief and lightness as we made our way down.

Earlier in the day, we had met a group of 9- and 10-year-old children on the bus, accompanied by their teacher on a mountain hiking trip. They got off at the same stop as us. We saw them again at the mountain hut during lunch and once more during our descent. We chatted with their teacher, who told us that the children were part of a ski club and very familiar with the mountains. They hiked 6 or 7 kilometers more than we did and soon left us far behind, disappearing from view. Today, we covered 8.3 miles (13.2 km), with an elevation gain of 1,720 feet, taking us five and a half hours.

We finally arrived back in Courmayeur, signaling the end of our Mont Blanc hiking adventure.

Over the past ten days, we hiked 43 miles (69 kilometers) on the TMB, with a total elevation gain of 8,900 feet. Since we used buses and cable cars along the way, our total descent—often harder on the knees—was greater than the ascent. The sections of the TMB we hiked were challenging but manageable, and without a doubt, this has been one of the most rewarding hiking experiences we’ve ever had. The mountain huts (refuges) along the way were incredibly convenient, typically no more than 5 kilometers apart, offering drinks and good food. The "comfort version" of the TMB we chose suited us perfectly. Whether you consider yourself fit or not, everyone should come here and experience it at least once—stay for three or four days, buy a cable car pass, and explore. We might just come back again.

The map shows the hiking routes and cable car lines we took. The gray line represents the traditional TMB.

勃朗峰山脉徒步游第十天-库马约尔

2024年8月5日: 今天是我们这次勃朗峰行的最后一天。我们走在著名的瓦尔山谷大阳台山道，是Courmayeur的一段TMB，沿途可以一直看着勃朗峰走，非常漂亮，所以称之为大阳台。路有点长，大部分在山上，二端上下坡比较陡。昨天刚走了7英里/11公里，大家都有点累，但又不想错过这机会，决定再努力一下。早餐时又碰到那对澳大利亚夫妇，正准备出门开始一天的UTMB跑步训练。又是对我们一番鼓励。

我们还是坐免费的大巴来到山脚下，开始往山上走。很明显今天腿有点酸，爬坡觉得很累。没想到的是当我们走完第一段上坡路来到山上时，发现我们花了比预期还少的时间。为了省点时间，我们没在第一个小山屋(Refuge Bonatti)停留，而是接着走。没多久迎面又跑来那对澳大利亚夫妇，他们今天跑我们这条TMB线路，只是相反的方向。从早上离开旅馆到现在他们已经跑了十四公里了，还高兴地对我们说前面很漂亮。感觉与这对老外很有缘，每次在我们有顾虑时他们会出现，鼓励我们。

接下来很长一段路相对来说比较平坦，没有太多的大起大落，真的就是一路迎着勃朗峰走且越走越近。计划在第二个小山屋(Refuge Bertone)休息吃午饭，但这小山屋比我们想象的要远很多。走了好几个小时才终于看到屋顶，心里别提有多高兴了。 在小山屋好好吃了顿午饭同时也得到了必要的休息之后，我们开始今天的最后一段徒步下山回镇。

下山的路不容易，一上来就在乱石中不停地往下走，眼看着一老外就在眼前摔一跤。这些天爬山，坡度大且路还长，充分体会到下山比上山更痛苦。 想到这是这次行程的最后一段路程，最后的冲刺，心情反而变得轻松起来。

早晨在大巴上碰见一群9，10岁男女小学生，老师带着出来爬山，他们在终点下车。中午在小山屋吃饭时又遇到他们。在我们下山时再次遇见他们，与带队老师聊了几句，告诉说孩子们是滑雪俱乐部的，对山熟悉。他们比我们多走了六，七公里，一会儿就远远超过了我们，跑得无影无踪。我们今天走了8.3英里/13.2公里，攀高1720英尺，走了五个半小时。终于下到Courmayeur镇，我们的勃朗峰徒步游也到此结束。

在过去的十天里，我们在TMB（环勃朗峰）徒步了43英里（69公里），总共攀升了8,900英尺。由于我们在途中使用了巴士和缆车，导致总的下降高度——这对膝盖的损伤更大——比攀升高度还要多。我们所走过的TMB部分虽然具有挑战性，但并不困难，毫无疑问，这是我们做过的最棒的徒步旅行之一。沿途的小屋（refuges）非常方便，通常距离徒步路线不会超过5公里，可以在那里享用饮品和不错的食物。我们选择的TMB“舒适版”非常适合我们。无论你是否认为自己体能合适，每个人至少应该来这里体验一下，住上三，四天，买张缆车通票，上上下下看看走走。我们或许还会再来。

地图显示了徒步路线以及缆车线路。灰色线传统的TMB。

Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 9 - Courmayeur 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第九天

August 4, 2024: This morning at breakfast in the hotel, we struck up a conversation with a couple from Australia. They were here to train for the wife, who is 64 years old, in preparation for the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB) race at the end of this month. Her husband, 66 years old, was accompanying her as a training partner. The UTMB race covers a grueling 171 km trail around Mont Blanc, crossing France, Italy, and Switzerland, and must be completed within 47 hours. Hearing about their training experiences on the mountains was awe-inspiring. We weren’t even attempting the full circuit, yet completing just a section seemed challenging enough, let alone running the entire course. The couple was incredibly friendly and encouraging, and their positive energy was contagious, boosting our confidence for the day’s hike.

Our plan for this Mont Blanc trip didn’t include completing the full loop; we had decided to skip the Swiss section. After arriving in the Italian town of Courmayeur yesterday, our daughter suggested we should at least hike into Switzerland, even if just to cross the border briefly. The section of the TMB (Tour du Mont Blanc) from Courmayeur to Switzerland is known to be quite challenging, with steep inclines. Connie, who had been exhausted by the first day’s hike, was hesitant to take on another difficult climb. However, the Australian couple’s encouraging words this morning made her reconsider. We seized the moment and set off promptly.

The border between Italy and Switzerland is located at the mountain summit. We started by taking a free bus to the base of the mountain and then began our ascent. The initial trail took us through a pasture with grazing cows, but soon the path became more challenging, with a continuous uphill climb and rough terrain. It took us about an hour and twenty minutes to complete the first leg of the hike and reach a small mountain hut (Refuge Elena).

After a cup of coffee and a brief rest, we began the second leg, aiming for the border point at the summit. This part of the trail was longer, with the first half being even steeper. As we climbed higher, the scenery became increasingly stunning, with the snow-capped peaks drawing closer. After two hours of steady hiking, we finally reached the summit. At the top, there was a sign marking the border between Italy and Switzerland. We took a photo together with one foot in each country, capturing a truly memorable moment. We still had to make the return journey back to the base. Although it’s often said that descending is harder than ascending, Connie seemed to be in great spirits, descending even faster than the rest of us. It seems the Australian couple’s words really gave her a boost.

In the evening, we went to a pizzeria in town for dinner and coincidentally ran into the Australian couple again. When they heard about our hike to the Swiss border, they were thrilled for Connie. “Pain will fade, but the memories will last forever” – this was their parting wisdom, which we found to be profoundly meaningful.

勃朗峰山脉徒步游第九天-库马约尔

2024年8月4日： 今天早上在旅馆吃早餐时与一对从澳大利亚来的老外闲聊，他们俩来这里训练为64岁的太太参加这个月底的超级勃朗峰跑步比赛(UTMB)作准备，66岁的先生陪练。跑步比赛是在171公里横跨法国，意大利和瑞士的勃朗峰山路进行，而且必须在47小时之内跑完整个一圈。听他们讲这些天训练爬山的经历，对我们来说简直是不可思议。我们根本不受时间限制，却连走完一圈都做不到，更别说跑了。老外夫妇很开朗健谈，不停地鼓励我们。他们的正能量传染给了我们，让我们对今天的爬山更有了信心。

因为我们这次来勃朗峰并不是走一整圈，计划中不包括瑞士的那部分。昨天来到意大利的库马约尔 （Courmayeur）小镇之后，女儿就说应该至少要爬山进入瑞士，哪怕就只是过一下边境线也行。从Courmayeur这里到瑞士的一段TMB线路并不太好走，比较陡。Connie 被第一天的爬山折磨得一直心有余悸，不愿再次自讨苦吃。今天早上老外夫妇的一席话让Connie的想法有所松动。趁热打铁我们赶紧出发。

意大利和瑞士边境点是在山顶上。首先我们坐免费的大巴来到山脚下，然后就开始往上爬。先从牛群中穿过，之后的路就开始有点难了，主要是一路都是上坡且路不太好走。我们花了差不多一个小时二十分才走完第一段来到一个小山屋（Refuge Elena）。喝杯咖啡稍作休息后我们开始走第二段，目标山顶上的意大利和瑞士边境点。第二段的路更长且前一半全是更陡的上坡路。好在越往上离雪山更近，风景越美。二个小时后我们终于来到山顶。山顶上有一块标牌，说是一边是意大利另一边是瑞士。我们俩脚踩两国照相合影，这一瞬间的感觉真的是很美好的。接下来我们还必须原路返回到山脚。都说上山容易下山难，不过今天好像Connie的状态很不错，一路下山走得比我们都快。看样子被早上老外夫妇的话激励到了。

晚上去镇上披萨店吃饭，又碰到了这对澳大利亚夫妇。得知我们今天爬山到山顶瑞士边境的经历，很为Connie高兴。“伤痛会过去，但记忆永存“ - 这是他们对我们说的一句话，觉得非常有哲理。

Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 8 - Next Stop 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第八天

August 3, 2024: Today, it was time to move on again. We bid farewell to France and made our way to Courmayeur, Italy. Although we had taken a cable car to the area when we first arrived at Mont Blanc, we hadn’t yet explored the town itself.

Getting from the small town of Les Contamines-Montjoie to Courmayeur wasn’t straightforward. We had to return to Chamonix and then take a tunnel to Courmayeur. Our initial plan was to take buses the entire way to avoid carrying our luggage on foot. After checking out in the morning, we boarded the Y84 bus, intending to transfer to the Y82 bus at Le Fayet. However, our first bus was delayed by a few minutes at each stop, and by the time we arrived at Le Fayet, we could only watch as our connecting bus drove away. Thankfully, we had chosen Le Fayet as our transfer point for another reason—it also has a train station. In case we missed the bus, we could switch to the train, which we promptly did. We quickly bought tickets for the first two stops, believing that the third stop and beyond would be free based on our previous experience. However, shortly after boarding the train, ticket inspectors informed us that we were required to purchase tickets for the entire journey. Being unfamiliar with the local rules, we paid the difference. Interestingly, instead of a penalty, we received a 50% discount on the additional fare, leaving us even more puzzled by the regulations.

When we finally returned to Chamonix, we were relieved. We still had plenty of time, and we had already purchased tickets for the direct bus from Chamonix to Courmayeur. The tunnel leading from Chamonix to Courmayeur was heavily congested with traffic. After a long journey involving both buses and a train, we eventually arrived on the other side of Mont Blanc, in the Italian town of Courmayeur.

Our hotel was conveniently located near the bus stop. After settling in and taking a brief rest, we set out to explore the town center. The atmosphere in Courmayeur was lively and relaxed, with a vacation-like vibe compared to the hiker-heavy areas of Chamonix and Les Contamines-Montjoie. The main street, although modest in size, was bustling with activity. People were strolling about, many with their dogs, adding to the town's relaxed charm. The street was lined with restaurants and bars, all of which were busy. Outdoor seating was full, with people enjoying drinks and snacks in the warm evening air, making the atmosphere feel both vibrant and inviting. Courmayeur offered a different, more leisurely feel, perfect for unwinding and enjoying the scenic surroundings.

The hotel receptionist recommended an Italian restaurant and kindly called to reserve a table for us. Dinner here is typically served late, and the restaurant, Pierre Alexis 1877, didn’t open until 7:30 PM. Located on a quiet side street, the restaurant occupies a building dating back to 1877. Upon sitting down, we discovered that the restaurant was listed in the 2024 Michelin Guide. They prepared an excellent all-vegan meal for our daughter, and our appetizers and main courses were equally impressive. It was the most refined dinner we’d had on this trip, though it was a bit on the pricey side.

勃朗峰山脉徒步游第八天-再转下一站

2024年8月3日： 又到挪窝的时候了，今天我们与法国说再见，前往意大利的库马约尔 （Courmayeur）。刚来勃朗峰时我们曾坐了过山缆车到过那里，但没去小镇。

从我们住的小镇莱斯康塔米纳 （Les Contamines-Montjoie ）到Courmayeur 小镇不是太方便，必须先回到霞慕尼 （Chamonix）再过隧道到Courmayeur。原计划是全程坐大巴，这样不需要拖着行李走路。早晨退了房间后先坐上Y84大巴，计划在Le Fayet 转Y82大巴。结果我们第一辆大巴每停一站就晚几分钟，当我们终于来到Le Fayet时𨚫眼巴巴看着第二辆大巴在我们面前开走。好在当初选Le Fayet 转车还有个原因，那里是火车站，怕万一错过第二辆大巴可以改坐火车。结果还真用上了，赶紧买了前二站的火车票，前几天来时知道第三站以后应该是免费的。可上了火车后不久就开始查票了，说是按规定必须买全程票，要补票。人生地不熟，也不懂这里规矩，补就补吧。有意思的是不但没有罚款，还打了半折，还真不懂这里规矩了。

再次回到Chamonix时总算松了口气，时间还多，第三辆从Chamonix 到Courmayeur直达大巴的票是提前买好。从Chamonix 到Courmayeur的隧道口堵车堵的历害。经过大巴，火车再换大巴我们终于来到勃朗峰的另一边，意大利的Courmayeur小镇。旅馆就在大巴站附近，非常方便。

入住后稍稍休息一下，我们便出门去镇中心熟悉环境。镇中心人很多，之前在Chamonix 和Les Contamines-Montjoie二个小镇看到的大都是大包小包的爬山者，而这里却更像一个度假地。一条不怎么大的主街上许多人牵着狗蹓跶。街道二边的饭店和洒吧桌椅都搭在外面，生意兴隆。大家都在喝酒，吃小点心。

旅馆前台推荐了一家意大利饭店，并帮我们打电话预订了座位。这里晚饭都吃得很晚，订的饭店7:30才开门。我们晚餐的饭店Pierre Alexis 1877躲在在一条比较安静的小路上，是一栋1877年的老房子。坐下才发现饭店上了2024年米其林指南餐厅榜。为女儿专门做的全素晚餐非常棒，我们的开胃菜和主食也相当不错，是这次旅行中吃了一顿最像模像样的晚餐，就是价格贵了一点。

Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 2-Chamonix 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第二天

July 28, 2024: We took a scheduled rest day today after a long hour hike yesterday. We bought a two-day lift pass to use the lifts to explore the area. Due to the high wind in the mountains, the Mont Blanc Panoramic cable car was not open in the morning. But we were told the update for the panoramic ride was at noon, so we booked the gondola for Midi before 12.

Today’s weather was perfect. First, the gondola took us to Plan De l’aiguille then switched to a different gondola to Aiguille du Midi at 12605 feet, the highest cable car in France. Once we were at the top, we quickly went to the ticket window for Panoramic Mont Blanc, and it had just started to open. Panoramic Mont Blanc Cable Car is a 30-minute ride over the glaciers from Aiguille du Midi in France to Pointe Helbronner in Italy with a panoramic view of the Mont Blanc massif. We embarked on one of three cars in a group and had a once-a-lifetime cable ride. We were completely surrounded by the blue sky and the mountains capped with white glaciers. We admired roped climbers scaling the glaciers below as our cable car moved slowly from France to Italy.

After getting off at Pointe Helbronner in Italy, at an elevation of 11,358 ft (3,462 m), we wanted to have lunch at the mountaintop restaurant, but it was already fully booked. So, we just had a coffee and a small pastry as a quick snack. Then, we went to the small 360-degree viewing platform at the summit to take photos of Mont Blanc at the closest distance.

At Pointe Helbronner, we used our two-day lift passes to get on a Skyway cable car down to Courmayeur, Italy. There is not much near the Skyway station, so we just had drinks in a cafe, went up via Skyway, and got off in the middle to visit Europe’s highest garden.

We knew the cable car back to France would be closed at 4:30 pm. At 4:10 pm, we were in a hurry to return to the cable car station for another 5-minute ride to the Pointe Helbronnor. However, we barely missed a gondola and waited for the next one, which would take us up to the top to catch the Panoramic Cable Car. The gondola came, and the crews decided to clean up the car and started to do the maintenance. It made us anxious, but there was nothing we could do about it. We patiently waited until they finished the job and started the gondola again. When the car reached the top, three of us rushed to the cable car station at 4:28 pm. The door to the embarking area was already closed. A crew member opened the door and let us in. We were the last people in the last car to leave Italy. We were so grateful that we made it. If not, we had to go down to Courmayeur again and perhaps take the bus going through the tunnel back to Chamonix.

The Panoramic Cable Car ride back to Aiguille du Midi was even better. The experience of traveling over glaciers and surrounded by mountains was one of the best we had had, probably second to the experience in Antarctica.

Once at the Midi point, we continued to explore the area. We watched two Austrian climbers come down from the rock and took some pictures of them. Later, we sent those pictures to them via WhatsApp. They started at 8:30 am and finished at 6 pm.  We wanted to spend more time at the top, but the last car down was 6:30 pm. They closed the area, and we were the last group to go down.

It was supposed to be a break day, but we didn’t make it easy. Once we were back in town, we had dinner in an Indian restaurant. The food was delicious, probably anything delicious after a whole day's activity. Chamonix was very charming and beautiful in the evening. It’s perfect for an after-meal walk.

2024年7月28日：昨天的长途跋涉让我们疲惫不堪，今天是我们的休息日，不爬山。我们买了两日的霞慕尼（Chamonix)缆车通票，方便游玩。今天早上由于山上风太大，山顶上的勃朗峰全景缆车没开。不过工作人员告诉我们，12点会有信息更新。我们决定在中午12点之前先乘坐缆车到南针峰（Aiguille Du Midi)。

今天的天气非常理想。首先我们乘坐缆车到达普朗德拉艾居站，然后换乘另一条缆车到达法国最高的缆车站——海拔12,605英尺的南针峰。到达山顶后，我们立刻去全景缆车售票窗口，发现缆车刚刚开放。勃朗峰全景缆车是一次30分钟的旅程，从法国的南针峰跨越冰川到达意大利的赫尔布罗纳峰，沿途可以欣赏到勃朗峰山脉的壮丽景色。小缆车在半空中被蔚蓝的天空和白雪覆盖的山峰环绕，慢慢地将我们从法国带到了意大利。沿途看到不少登山者在冰川上攀爬。

在意大利赫尔布罗纳峰(Pointe Helbronner) at 11358 ft (3,462 m)下车后，想在山顶餐厅里吃上个午餐，可餐厅巳满座，我们就随意喝杯咖啡吃个小面食了事。然后在就山顶上360度小平台上最近距离和勃朗峰留影。

利用我们二日通票乘坐360度旋转天空缆车下到库马约尔（Courmayeur)。没想到天空缆车站附近什么都没有，且离库马约尔小镇还有点距离。在缆车站旁的咖啡馆喝了咖啡之后我们便原路返回，并在中途停下参观了欧洲最高的植物园。我们知道从意大利赫尔布罗纳峰返回法国的全景缆车在下午4:30关闭，所以我们在4:10时急忙赶往天空缆车站准备返回赫尔布罗纳峰。不巧刚好错过了一班缆车，不得不等下一班。可缆车一到工作人员却告诉说要先做维护，我们只能耐心等待，直到维护完成，缆车重新启用。到达赫尔布罗纳峰后，我们迅速赶到全景缆车站，此时已是4:28。所幸一名工作人员及时看到我们，特地打开了已关闭的门。我们总算坐上最后一班返回法国的全景缆车，否则将不得不返回库马约尔，然后可能需要乘坐巴士通过隧道回到霞慕尼。回程的全景缆车之旅再一次让我们穿越冰川，置身群山之间，很震撼。

回到法国的南针峰后，正好看到两位攀岩者从陡峭的岩壁上慢慢下来，顺手拍了些照片。这二位奥地利来的攀岩者从早上8:30就开始攀爬，只到到下午近6点才完成。稍后通过WhatsApp我们将照片发送给了他们。尽管我们希望在山顶多待些时间多看看，最后一班下山的缆车是下午6:30，我们又是最后一批离开的游客。

回到镇上后，我们在一家印度餐馆享用了美味的晚餐。忙忙碌碌一整天后，吃什么都觉得格外香。