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Panama (2)-Boquete

Jan 30 - Feb 2, 2023

We continued our journey to Boquete, Panama, known for its beautiful natural scenery, coffee plantations, and outdoor activities.

我们继续前往巴拿马的博克特,以其美丽的自然风光、咖啡种植园和户外活动而闻名。

Jan 30: Our next destination is Boquete, Panama, a resort town and a hot spot for American retirees. It was 300 miles driving distance away from Panama City. We had researched the options to get there before the trip, but none of them provided us any confidence with detailed information. For example, the Rome2rio app gives out a few options, from the city bus to the luxury bus, for $9 to $50. There isn't any reliable information on bus companies' websites either. Some of the companies only have Instagram or Facebook accounts with old information. Since it was our first time taking a long-distance bus in the country, we were a little nervous about it. So, we woke up early. After breakfast at the hotel, we headed out to the Panama City Bus Terminal, where all buses in and out of Panama City stop and depart, and next to the largest shopping mall in the Americas. There was no direct bus to Boquete, only via the town of David, 30 minute drive from Boquete. The bus terminal has many ticket windows arranged according to the destinations. The window for David has a short line, and there were no other options to choose from except one bus to David operated by the DP, leaving the terminal a few times a day. From the waiting room to the bus outside, we needed to use the local bus card (costing about $0.1), which we didn't have, to open the gate. A guy saw us stuck in front of the entrance and used his card to open the gate for us. We paid him $1 for the four of us, and he made a small profit. We don't understand why they can't just add the entrance fee to the bus ticket.

The bus was a double-deck bus with a toilet on the back. We sat on the second deck with the large windows. The passengers got on and off occasionally, and at some stops, people got on the bus to sell twist dough, gold necklaces, etc. We had no clue what they were saying, and they were not aggressive in selling their stuff. Near the destination, the immigration police boarded the bus to check passports, and a dog sniffed at the luggage storage. The bus ride to David was comfortable, and we stopped halfway for a lunch break. Time passed fast; we arrived at David at 5 pm after the 8-hour ride. Instead of taking another bus to Boquete, we negotiated a $30 taxi ride. Since we all had luggage, we checked the car first to ensure enough room for the bags before we agreed on the deal. We stayed at the Bambuda Castle up the hill, an hour away from David. This castle hostel is famous in the local area. We stayed in the tower room with the bathroom on the ground floor and a tiny bedroom on the second floor while our friends were in the cabin room. In the tower room, the stairs up are narrow spiral stairs typically seen in the Castle. It was cool but not very convenient, just for the castle experience.

The Castle is beautiful, nestled in lush hills in Boquete but far from the town center. There were no restaurants or cafes in the surrounding area except the dining service in the Castle. Since we skipped lunch and were a little hungry, we just picked a menu card from the counter to order the food. The items on the menu were minimal, so we ordered chicken wings and something else. The chicken pieces were not very good, and we didn't finish them. We all complained about the limited menu for dinner; then, we suddenly saw someone had the pizza. By then, we realized we had missed the other menu card.

 Jan 31: We had a simple breakfast in the open-air dining hall with 180-degree dreamy views across coffee plantations to the green hills of Volcan Baru. We sipped coffee and watched little clouds moving over the mountains, like in paradise. We had booked an adventure tour of suspension bridge walking and Zipline this afternoon. The meeting point was at the tour operator's office in the town. We walked down the hill to enjoy the view of the countryside for 45 mins. Boquete is a small tourist town with many restaurants and gift shops. We wandered around to find a place to have a quick lunch. We settled in a small café on a small street hidden away from the main road. We had typical American fast food, chicken fingers, and pulled pork, but they were comfortable.

Both the walking tour and zipline tour are in Tree Trek Boquete Adventure Park, which is a short driving distance away from the town center. All tourists boarded their truck-modified tour bus. After we arrived at the park, we were separated into two groups, walking and Zipline. We feared high, so we picked the suspension bridge walking, and our friends went on a Zipline adventure.

The $30 suspension bridge walking tour covers 3 miles and six suspension bridges, with the highest point of 6,000 feet above sea level. Tree Trek suspension bridges range from 70 to 135 meters long and reach heights 10 to 75 meters above the ground. Along the way, the local guide introduced us to some unique local flowers and plants in their natural habitat. The two major differences between the cloud forest and the rainforest are that the cloud forest has no mosquitoes and higher oxygen. Hiking in the cloud forest is more pleasant than in the rainforest. We enjoyed hiking for three hours in the forest and walking across six suspension bridges with stunning views of rivers, waterfalls, and Baru Volcano.

After the tour, we called a Taxi to take us to the Boquete sign on the edge of the town. While taking pictures in front of the Boquete sign, we noticed more than 20 coatis in the parking lot nearby. It was a little scary and uncomfortable. We took the same Taxi back to the town. For dinner, we went to The Fish House, a small but cozy place with most customers who were Americans. The food was delicious, and we raised the cups and bottles to celebrate our good day of adventure. After dinner, we wandered the market by the river before returning to the Castle.

 Feb 1: Today is another beautiful day. As the morning's sun beamed into the window of our tower room, we were ready for another day of adventure. We could see a hotel staff watering grasses from our windows on the top of the beautiful Garden Bungalow covered. Boquete is much more comfortable with low humidity and fresh air than Panama City.

Today's adventure was hiking in the area. After doing a lot of homework, we chose the trail of The Lost Waterfalls among other trails to see the three waterfalls. We called a taxi to take us to the trailhead, and the driver also agreed that he would come back to pick us up in three hours. After the suspension bridge, it took less than 10 minutes up the hill until we saw a cluster of cabins. The entrance fee to the park was $10. A girl at a shed collected $10 for each person, and we also checked in on their notebook.

The trail led us through fantastic jungle scenes. With an average slope of seven hundred feet per mile, hiking up on the muddy path with frequent silt and tall steps was challenging for us. Fortunately, wooden guardrails were in the steep part of the trail to help a little. Despite the challenge, we were immersed in adventure mode in hanging vines, luscious trees, and large leaves in the cloud forest. We arrived at the first waterfall after we trekked the muddy paths. The waterfall was massive and breathtaking. After taking a few pictures, we were on the trail to Waterfall number two. We were a little tired, and the trail from Waterfall One to Waterfall Two was more difficult; getting to the second waterfall needed more encouragement and persuasion.

The second waterfall had a small pool where people could swim. By then, going to see Waterfall Three was out of the question, and we ran out of time and energy. On the way down, we bypassed Waterfall One and hurried back to the trailhead. Our taxi driver picked us up on time and dropped us in the town center. After lunch at Butcher Chophouse, we returned to our Castle to rest. Chenggang felt sick with a high fever. Fortunately, the COVID test was negative. He believed he had stomach flu after having two pieces of the bad tasted chicken wing. Tomorrow we are embarking on a new journey.

 Feb 2: Today, we did something we had never done before, dragging suitcases and carrying backpacks to enter another country. In the morning, our reserved Taxi picked us up at the hotel and dropped us off at the Panamanian border. We were stamped and fingerprinted at the border post on the Panama side and walked out of Panama to Costa Rica. You can go in and out of the border at will, and no one cares. But if you do not go through the border properly, you may have trouble later if you leave the country from elsewhere.

Now we were in a new country and started another adventure.

1/30: 今天早早起床,吃完早餐之后,就赶去巴拿马城公交车总站,所有进出巴拿马城的公交车都会在这里停靠和发车,车站旁边是美洲最大的购物中心。我们要坐大巴直穿巴拿马到达Boquete,一个度假小镇,也是美国退休人员喜欢的地方。在这之前,因为没有直达公交,做了不少功课,但对于怎么走还是很不确定,毕竟第一次在中美洲乘坐长途汽车,而且这还是我们最长的长途汽车。来到公交车总站,许许多多的卖票𥦬口按终点站排列很清楚,根本不用选。我们的长途大巴是那种二层带厕所的,很舒服。前前后后坐了8个小时,行驶450公里,中间时常有乘客上下,也有人上车卖麻花,金项链等等,我们反正也听不懂他们在说什么。在接近终点站时,移民局警察上车查护照和查行李。

坐了8个小时的长途客车到了大卫(David)城后,没再转公交车,而是直接找了个出租车送我们来到一个小时外的度假小镇Boquete在山坡上的旅馆。这个城堡旅馆在当地很有名,我们选择了城堡房,底层是厕所,楼上是卧室, 上楼的楼梯是那种狭窄螺旋的,很酷但还是不太方便,也算是一种体验吧。

1/31: 昨晚到城堡时天已黑,今天早上起来发现我们住的房间从外面看还是蛮漂亮的。今天我们俩参加吊桥徒步游,一共走了3英里,最高点是海拔6千尺。在云林里徒步三个小时,走过六个吊桥,很享受。沿途导游介绍了一些当地独特的花和植物,云林和雨林二大区别是云林没蚊子和高氧。我们的朋友俩去参加了高空索道,一共十二索道,很刺激。

2/1: 今天又是一个好天气,清晨从房间窗户看外面,那一个个别致的草顶房很有意思,这些也是这个城堡旅馆的特色客房。比起巴拿马城来说,这里舒服多了,湿度低,空气清新。做了不少功课,又问了前台,我们选择了被遗忘的瀑布这条登山路线(The lost waterfalls), 看三个瀑布大约需要三,四个小时。我们叫了出租车把我们送到登山路口,并且说好三个小时后来接我们。登山门票每人$10,不便宜,反正只有外国人会付这个钱去爬山。这条登山路线不容易,比我们预想的难。平均每英里七百英尺的坡度,而且时常有淤泥,台阶又高,现在还是这里的干燥季节,不可想像雨季会怎么样。幸好这条路坡度大的地方有木栏杆稍微帮些忙。我们三小时内只去看了二个瀑布,一是没时间了,二是上去看第三个瀑布的路更难。到了第二瀑布我们就匆匆往回赶,我们出租车司机准时来接我们。

爬完山大家都有点累,在城里吃完午饭后就回到我们的城堡休息。明天我们要开始新的旅程。

今天(2/2)我们做了一件从未做过的事,拖着行李箱,背着双肩包出关进关。上午出租车把我们送到巴拿马边境,边境站里盖了章和按了指印,就算出了巴拿马来到哥斯达黎加的领地。其实边境我们可以随便进进出出,没人管。但如果不按规定盖章按指印的话,之后想要从其它地方出境的话就会有麻烦。

新的国家新的旅程。

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Panama (1)-Panama City 巴拿马市

Jan 26 - 29, 2023

Embarking on an 8-day trip to Panama promises an enchanting adventure filled with captivating landscapes, captivating history, and a vibrant culture.

踏上为期8天的巴拿马之旅,享受着迷人的风景,丰富的历史和充满活力的文化。

Jan 26: The ship docked at seven this morning, and we disembarked after a quick breakfast at the Garden Café.

Colon is on the Caribbean Sea side of Panama City and is about 50 miles from Panama. There are several options to get to Panama City from Colon. The best option was the direct train, but the service was suspended due to the pandemic. Our cruise offers the airport transfer for $100 per person but not to the downtown area where we stay, which is still far from the airport. Another option is to take a taxi to Panama City, which costs $200+ for booking online. The cheapest option is to take an hour and a half bus ride, but we must walk 20 minutes from the Colon cruise terminal to the Colon bus station or by Taxi. The town of Colon is said to be unsafe; walking with luggage on the street is not recommended.

To us, the best option is to take Uber. While the ship docked at Colon, we tried to schedule an Uber ride, but no cars were available. Not sure what exactly we would do, we decided to get off the ship first and figured the thing out later. As soon as we stepped on the pier, we were surrounded by a mob of people selling taxi services to us, and the price was sky-high. Ignoring them, we continued to look for Uber ourselves. We saw a couple standing next to us who seemed to be waiting for a car, so we chatted with them. It turned out that they had already called Uber successfully and immediately offered to share their Uber with us after learning that we also wanted to go to Panama City. What a kindness. We happily accepted their offer. Chatting with the Canadian couple along the way to the city was fun. One hour Uber ride went fast, and we arrived at the hotel smoothly. We were very grateful for their kindness, so we offered to pay 2/3 of the $60 total Uber cost as our way of saying thank you. The world is full of good people willing to help each other.

Our room was not ready when we arrived at the hotel around 10 am. So we stored our luggage in the office and explored the city. We walked straight toward the Gulf of Panama. Along the shore is a beautiful waterfront pathway called the Ciclovia Cinta Costera, which has a panoramic view of the Gulf of Panama and the skyline of Panama City designed for biking, walking, and running. The modern Cinta Costera area gave us an excellent first impression of the city. We walked to the Panama Fish Market under the scorching sun. The market has two sections, one for selling fresh seafood and the other for seafood restaurants. Both areas were very clean and organized. Picking one restaurant to sit down from so many restaurants in the area was challenging for us. We like deep-fried whole fish, and with that in mind, we found one reasonably priced restaurant. We had deep-fried whole fish, grilled octopus, and a cup of ceviche. All dishes come with a green salad and deep-fried plantains or rice. All of them tasted very fresh and delicious.

After lunch, we walked to the old Chinatown nearby. Although a traditional Chinatown arch existed, there were almost no true Chinese stores. The place was run-down with poorly maintained buildings. We didn't stay there for very long. Tired of strolling under the hot sun, we needed a coffee break. Surprisingly, we couldn't find any decent coffee café along the path back to the hotel, even with Google Maps Search help. Ultimately, we went to a bakery café just across from our hotel with two lattes and an Empanada. They were pricy, as we expected, but the coffee and empanada didn't meet our standards.

In the evening, we went to a local restaurant near our hotel, Concolon Street Food Cafe, with a Central America vibe. We had paella with green rice, fried bread, and a "glutinous rice" triangle. We didn't know green rice was popular in Central America. All dishes were one of the best on this trip. During the dinner, a couple walked to our table to ask if we were on the NCL Jewel Cruise. The husband said he talked to one of us a few days ago. Of course, we remembered it. What a small world.

Jan 27: Two friends from Philadelphia arrived last night to join us on our trip to Latin America. Early this morning, our friends went separately to the Miraflores Visit Center outside Panama City since we already went through the Panama Canal. We visited the highly-rated Biomuseo, a museum focused on the natural history of Panama. We learned that Panama's isthmus was raised above the water to form a land bridge 3 million years ago, starting the Great American Interchange, with a significant impact on the ecology of the Western Hemisphere. During the Great America Interchange, animals and humans immigrated from south to north and vice versa. Located on the Amador Causeway in Panama City, Panama, the museum's architectural design is unique and beautiful. There are many visitors, primarily passengers on cruise ships, and the cruise ship terminal is nearby. We took an Uber at the cost of $4 to get there.

After seeing the Biology Museum, we slowly strolled along the Amador Causeway toward Flamenco Island. The west of the causeway is the mouth of the canal, with the Bridge of Americans in the backdrop. The entire area was the former US military base used to defend the canal operation. The causeway is very well built, and the scenery on both sides is incredible, but it was tough to walk without shadow for an hour on a humid and hot sunny day. Our friends arrived at Flamenco Island before we did, and a delicious seafood lunch awaited us at Sirena Seafood Restaurant.

After lunch, the four of us walked back on the causeway for a while and then called Uber to take us back to the hotel for a short rest. Uber and taxis in Panama City are convenient and very cheap, about $3-$5 in the city. We sometimes checked the Uber price first; then, if Uber were unavailable, we would wave down the Taxi to ask if they would match the price. The chance was about 50%/50%.

As our friends took a break in the hotel, we went out to find a coffee shop. We did not want to return to the same bakery café across from our hotel; instead, we had a cup of Coffee and French Palmier Cookies at the coffee shops we spotted yesterday. The coffee was from a cheap coffee machine and wasn't good. We were not surprised since it was cheap. For dinner, we went to the Golden Unicorn Chinese restaurant hidden on the fourth floor of the Evergreen Building. We ordered lobster, steamed fish, four other dishes, and soup, which tasted good. We hadn't eaten such delicious Chinese food for a long time.

Jan 28: Today, we went to Casco Viejo (the old town), built in 1673, after the completed destruction of Panama Viejo (the old Panama City) by pirates. The old town was isolated by sea and more defensible than the previous one. The town later became the canal construction headquarter for finance, management, and engineering. Ruined by corruption and drug trafficking under dictators in the last century, the area was only rebuilt in the nineties and became a UNESCO site. Today, this old town is a collection of elegant, beautiful, and prosperous French, Spanish and American architecture, making it a must-see when visiting Panama. We joined a free walking tour for over two hours and learned much about Panama from the tour guide. It is a free tour, but the guide expects everyone to pay the tip. Panama is the second country in Central America to disband the military besides Costa Rica, which we learned from this trip.

After completing the tour in the old town, we took an Uber to the Lung Fung Chinese restaurant for DIM SUM. The dishes were excellent. Then we took another Uber to Panama Viejo, the first European settlement on the Pacific coast, which was the capital of Panama at that time before Casco Viejo. But the city's location was not easy to defend and often attacked by pirates. In 1671, the Englishman Morgan destroyed the entire capital with a group of pirates, after which the locals moved the capital city to the current old town (Casco Viejo), where the unique terrain was easier to defend. Unbeknownst to Morgan, Britain, and Spain had signed the Treaty of Madrid, which ended hostilities between the two countries. He was arrested for violating the treaty and sent back to London, but the British welcomed him with a heroic ceremony. Morgan was released because he proved he didn't know the treaty. The site has an excellent museum of Panama's history and is also on the World Heritage List. We found Panama Viejo was more interesting historically than Casco Viejo. The Casco Viejo was a little more commercial and had too many tourists.

Our tour guide recommended we go to Panaviera Sky Bar on the JW Marriott's 66th floor, the highest rooftop bar in Central America. The bar has a stylish lounge next to the fantastic infinity pool. We got breathtaking panoramic views over the ocean and Panama City from there. As the sun set, we sipped Mango Margaritas and small snack bites and enjoyed the scene of the sunset over Panama City.

While our friends decided to skip dinner, we went to a nearby Spanish restaurant, Casa Alejandro. The menu was Spanish, and they didn't speak English, so we ordered two dishes without knowing too much about what we ordered from the menu. Both dishes turned out to be prawns, but the taste was quite good.

 Jan 29: We went to the Metropolitan Natural Park in the heart of Panama City in the morning. It was the only refuge for a wildlife preserve and the tropical forest in the city. After paying the entrance fee, they gave you a wristband to put on. There are five trails to choose from. We took the Monkey Trail to the top of Cerro Cedro for panoramic views of Panama City and the Canal. We hiked for two hours over 2.6 miles. To our surprise, over the 2.6-mile trail, we saw a lot of wildlife, including mother and daughter sloths, white-nose coati, white face monkeys, turtles, deer, and trogons. We highly recommend the place to visit and hike.

After the hike, we took a Taxi to a Hongkong-style café called Hong Kong Bakery and Café and had delicious Dim Sum. Then we returned to the hotel for a short break.

We went to the seaside again in the afternoon. This time, we walked along the Ciclovia Cinta Costera to Mirador Paitilla Park, where more high-rise condos are opposite the fish market. It seemed not much scenery beyond the point, so we called an Uber back to Casco Viejo to visit a few sights we didn't have time to see yesterday. There was heavy traffic in the old town in the afternoon. Probably 5 minutes ride in the normal traffic became 30 minutes. We felt terrible for the driver and gave him an extra tip to compensate for the waiting time. In the town, we had fresh coconuts for $2.5 a piece. The price was slightly higher than Costa Rica's, but the size was much larger.

In the evening, we went to another Chinese restaurant for dinner. Just in time to see the local Zhu family Spring Festival party, the gongs, and drums were noisy, and the lion dance was lively. It is said that 90+% of the Chinese in Panama are from Guangdong, and 90+% are from Huadu, Guangzhou. Our Philadelphia friends were originally from Guangzhou and jokingly said they celebrated the Spring Festival with their fellow villagers.

Since we left Shanghai, we can't remember having that many Chinese cuisines in just four short days outside the home. We will leave Panama City tomorrow to begin our rainforest/cloud forest journey.

1/26: 昨天过运河后,终点站Colon码头就在附近,但游轮却不停靠码头,而是把船开到外面的加勒比海兜了一大圈,碰上大风大浪,船晃得厉害,把我们折腾了一晚。今天早上七点靠岸,吃完早餐之后我们就下了船。

Colon码头离我们要去的巴拿马城大概50英里左右。我们对怎么从Colon到巴拿马城一直找不到确定的方案。最方便的直达火车因为疫情而停运了。如今最便宜的是坐一个半小时的公交车但需要从Colon船码头到Colon大巴车站走二十分钟,据说Colon不是很安全, 都不建议在路上走,可以找出租车从码头到大巴车站。还有个选择是坐出租车去巴拿马城,网上订车要$200+。游轮也提供回城服务,但只能直接送去巴拿马飞机场,离我们住的市中心旅馆有点距离。最后我们决定下船后看情况再说。一出码头,被拉出租车生意的人团团围住,大开天价。不理他们,我们自己找Uber但是暂时无车。这时正好看到旁边一对夫妇好像也在等车,就和他们搭讪。他们已叫了Uber,听说我们也去巴拿马城,主动说可以与我们拼车,只要$30,真是天上掉下来个大馅饼🤪。一路上与这对加拿大来的老外聊天很开心,一小时后很顺利地到了旅馆。世界上热心的好人真不少。

到旅馆时才早上十点左右,房间还没有准备好,我们先注册,寄存行李,然后便沿着海边走到海鲜市场要了炸全鱼,烤章鱼和酸橘汁腌鱼(ceviche),非常好吃😋。 晚上去了一家当地餐厅,很不错,第一次吃上绿色米饭打底的海鲜饭,油饼和"糯米”角也很好。在饭店还碰到了另一对从我们游轮下来的乘客, 世界真小。

1/27: 昨晚从费城来的两位朋友来到巴拿马城加入我们中南美州之旅。今天一早她们俩去运河中心参观,我们则去了巴拿马生物博物馆。博物馆的建筑设计有点特色,里面的展馆一般,但因为巴拿马城游轮码头就在附近, 参观的人不少,大多是游轮上的乘客。

看完生物馆后,我们就沿着阿马多尔堤道慢慢地向Flamenco 岛走去,堤道西边是运河进出口,美国大桥,这整个区域以前是美国军事基地,为运河的运行防卫。堤道建得相当好,两旁风景很美,但在又湿又热的大太阳下走了一小时真的不容易,有点累。想着之前在船上每天吃那么多,腰围长一圈,现在该是甩膘的时候了。汗流浃背地走到Flamenco岛上,朋友已到,一顿美味的海鲜午餐等着我们。

饭后我们四人在堤道上往回走了一段,便叫车回旅馆小休一会儿。这里Uber和Taxi又方便又便宜,在市内大约$3-$5就够了。

回旅馆后我们俩又出去找了一家咖啡店喝咖啡,咖啡不怎么样,蝴蝶酥还可以。

好友对饮食很在行,总能找到好地方。晚饭去了一家中餐馆,要了龙虾,蒸鱼等四菜一汤,味道不错,我们俩好久没吃这么好吃的中餐了。光忙着吃没拍晚餐的照片,只能借朋友的照片用一下。

今天(1/28号)我们去了巴拿马老城区(Casco Viejo), 建于1673年,后来成为运河建造的财政,管理,工程的大本营。上个世纪在独裁者统治下,腐败和贩毒使得这里破败不堪,一直到九十年代才开始重建,后来成为世界遣址。如今这老城区聚集着法国,西班牙和美国式的建筑,优雅美丽,人丁兴旺,是来巴拿马的必游之地。我们参加徙步游,导游带我们走了二个多小时,一路侃侃而谈, 我们学了不少东西,也知道了巴拿马的军队在独裁者下台后被解散,如今只有警察而没有军队。

走完老城区后又来到几公里外的巴拿马遗址(Panama Viejo),是太平洋岸边的第一欧州人定居点,当时是巴拿马首都。但是那地方地势不利,常常受到海盗的抢劫骚扰,在1671年,英国人摩根带着一帮海盗把整个首都摧毁了,之后当地人把首都搬到了现在老城区的地方,那里独特的地势更容易防守。摩根全然不知当时英国和西班牙已签署了互不侵犯的协议,为此他被捕送回伦敦,但是英国人以英雄仪式欢迎他的到来。遗址也是在世界遗产名录中。

参观完了旧巴拿马后,来到了万豪酒店的66层酒吧,喝着芒果马提尼酒,俯瞰巴拿马城全景,欣赏夕阳西落的美景。

白天在参观二个旧城区之间去了一家中餐馆吃午茶,下午又在万豪观景台吃喝,朋友俩决定跳过晚餐。我们俩还是去了附近一家西班牙餐厅,菜单是西语,他们又不会说英语,我们就稀里糊涂地点两个菜,结果两个菜都是大虾,但是味道是相当好。

1/29:上午去城市自然公园, 徒步2.6英里,在那里待了二个小时,看到不少野生动物,包括树懒母女,长鼻浣熊,吼猴,乌龟,鹿和咬鹃等。

中午再次品尝巴拿马的午茶点心,不比美国的差。饭后回旅馆小休。下午来到海边散步后,再次来到巴拿马老城区,把昨天没看过的景点补上。又看到有新鲜椰子卖,$2.5 一个,价格比之前在哥斯达里加的稍稍上去了一点,但尺寸大很多。晚上又去了另一家中餐馆吃饭,正好碰上当地朱氏家族春节联欢会,锣鼓喧天,热闹非凡。据说巴拿巴90+%华人来自广东,而广东人中90+%是广州花都人。与我们同行的二位费城朋友都来自广州,开玩笑地说与同乡一起欢庆春节了。

自从离开上海后,不记得几天内连上这么多中餐馆😜。明天我们就要离开巴拿马城,开始我们热带雨林/云林的旅程。

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Cruise, 2023 Travel Q&X Cruise, 2023 Travel Q&X

12 Day Panama Canal Cruise 十二天巴拿马运河邮轮游

Jan 13-26, 2023

Embark on an unforgettable adventure with a 12-day Panama Canal cruise,

登上为期12天巴拿马运河游轮开始我们拉丁美洲的旅程

Jan 13: We started our trip to Central/South America a day earlier. A while ago, there was constant news of flight cancellations and delays due to the weather and computer system failures. Especially two days ago, the FAA flight system failed, causing all flights nationwide to be temporarily suspended for a couple of hours. It made us feel nervous about flying on the day of boarding a cruise and worrying about missing the cruise; we decided to fly to San Diego a day earlier. Upon arriving at San Diego airport, as usual, we were going to call Uber or Lyft, but it turned out that the city bus stop was right outside the terminal building. So we took the bus, a 10-minute quick ride to the hotel near the historic district - Gaslamp Quarter. Dropped off the luggage, we headed straight to the seaside. We had a couple of tacos at the pier first, then boarded a local tourist boat for an hour bay cruise, whose tickets were included in the destination fee our hotel collected from us. The tour guide on the boat was quite good, and he provided a lot of information about the bay. We really enjoyed the tour. Disembarked, we walked to the historic Gaslamp Quarter and were disappointed that the place was deserted and almost empty in the afternoon. After a simple dinner at the hotel, we returned to the Gaslamp district in the evening. However, this time it was much different; the streets were full of restaurant patrons and bargoers, but it was still not as lively as expected on a Friday night.

Jan 14: We signed up for our cruise embarking time at noon and had the whole morning to spare. After breakfast, we went to the Italian neighborhood just in time for the weekend market and saw some snacks we had not seen before. The line at the pozole booth was long, so we decided to give it a try. We had a cup of hot pork pozole, a Mexican pork soup that tasted great and was perfect for a cold day. After returning to the hotel and picking up our luggage, we boarded the NCL Jewel cruise ship. We officially began the first leg of our trip to Central/South America, a 12-day San Diego to Panama Canal cruise.

Our room was not ready when we boarded the ship. So with our suitcase in hand, we went directly to the Garden Café for a buffet lunch. Around 1:30 pm, the PA announced that the rooms were ready. Our room was a good size cabin with a balcony, and it was in a perfect location. At 4 pm, the ship slowly left the Port of San Diego in heavy rain. As we stood out on the balcony to watch the skyline of San Diego Bay disappearing in the low cloud, we felt very lucky to tour the bay area under the decent weather yesterday.

We had our first dinner at the Chin Chin Asia restaurant, which was really disappointing. Among all the food we ordered, the Kung Pao chicken was the worst. It came with clear-cut chicken cubes mixed with a little vegetable and sauce, and it was the worst Kung Pao Chicken we have ever had. We were unsure if we would return to the restaurant during the rest of the cruise. We didn’t finish the dishes, so we still had room for more food and went up to the Garden Café for the second dinner, a piece of delicious Prime Rib.

Jan 16: After leaving San Diego in the late afternoon on the 14th, our ship headed south and spent the whole day yesterday at sea. This morning we arrived at the first port of call, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. The sky was clear, and the temperature was around 70F. We just visited this place a little over a year ago on another cruise trip. Without any special activities planned, we just walked along Medano Beach for four hours. At noon, we had some tacos from a Taco Bar at a hotel by the beach and enjoyed some people-watching. We wandered around the marina area looking for a coffee shop but couldn’t find one we liked, so we walked further away from the tourist area. We found a local coffee shop offering a decent Latte for $2.5 and good WiFi, and it was half the price we paid on the ship. Tonight, we went to see the magic show.

Jan 17: The Jewel left Cabo San Lucas last evening and arrived at Port Vallarta at noon today. We were lucky to see whales accompanying us this morning. It was our second time to visit Port Vallarta. More than a year ago, when we visited this beautiful city, we didn’t join any organized tour; instead, we explored the town by ourselves, taking the local buses and Uber. The city gave us a good impression. This time we signed up for a tour from the ship to explore more than just the new town area. First, the tour bus took us to the city center, the city hall, and the church. The city hall was crowded not just because of tourists like us, but many local people were waiting in line to pay the property tax. They get a 10% discount if they pay in January. Mexico also has a senior discount for property tax, and Mexican legal residents or citizens 60 years or older pay only 50% of their property tax. We wish the US had a similar policy.

Then the bus took us to a jewelry store in the old town, a tourist trap that provides a bathroom facility and free drinks. Visiting a ceramic tile factory across the street was much more enjoyable. The workers hand-painted each tile before firing them. The store sells different types of ceramic products. The bus finally took us to an old tequila winery passing through a village outside the city. The distillery is no longer used for production but focuses on tourist services. The owner’s son gave a short presentation and showed us a few old pieces of equipment for the distillation process. There were a few blue agave plants in the garden. It was not the typical brew/winery tour we had before. The tour's highlight was to taste their tequilas, a total of six different kinds, from cheap to expensive ones. Watching fellow passengers drink shot after shot and finish all six shots in no time, the two of us felt a little embarrassed because we did not even finish half a shot combined, definitely saving some tequilas for the winery. The primary purpose of the tour is to sell their Tequilas, and the free Tequila shots did the trick. Within the tourist complex, they also serve tacos—each chicken or pork taco with a freshly handmade tortilla sold for $2. We had a couple of them, which looked simple but very tasty, and we think they were better than those in the United States.

After the tour, we were back on the ship. We went to the main dining restaurant for dinner. The food tonight was delicious. There were not too many people in the restaurant tonight; probably because the ship had a late departure time, many people were still hanging out on the shore.

Jan 19: It took another sea day from Port Vallarta to reach the next port. Our ship docked early in Acapulco, Mexico, a new coast city to us. We started the day on our own and first visited the local church and the town square. It was early morning, and the people had just started setting up the booths in the square; not much to see. Then we walked along the beautiful seaside. We stopped by, watching a local fisherman beginning to fire up a charcoal stove on the edge of the shore wall for a while. He heated the pan directly over the fire and added some oil and garlic. Then he deep-fried fresh mahi-mahi fish eggs. The smell was good, and the taste must be delicious, but we did not dare try it.

Acapulco is another tourist resort town but less popular than Cabo San Lucas and Port Vallarta. We recently watched an Acapulco seaside cliff diving episode called Human Playground on a Netflix show, and a comedy show from Apple TV+. We joined the tour in the afternoon, and the highlight of this tour was seeing a diving show, which lived up to its name. Eight divers climbed the cliff and dived into the water below. The show lasted about 15 mins.

The tour's final stop was the Fort of San Diego, built by the Spanish Empire and one of the most important Spanish fortifications along the Pacific coast. Unfortunately, the Acapulco Historical Museum was closed under restoration. We just wandered around in the fort courtyard under the scorching sun, and we could not bear the heat anymore and returned to the ship. We hope the weather will be cooler as we travel to the south in the next few weeks.

Jan 21: Yesterday was another sea day. The wind and waves were very calm in the morning. The only ripples you could see were caused by our ship's sailing. The sea was so beautiful and looked like a painting. After taking a few cruises, long and short, this was the first time we saw such a calm sea. From time to time, Sea turtles could be seen floating in the calm water.

Done with Mexico ports, we headed to the largest Port in Guatemala, Puerto Quetzal, today. We arrived early this morning, and it was one of the smallest cruise ship terminals we've ever visited. The terminal only had a souvenir market for tourists but nothing else. Most passengers from the ship headed out to the ancient city of Antigua - the old capital of Guatemala. We took a tour called “Antigua on your own.” As the name indicated, the tour company only provided roundtrip transportation to Antigua. The bus ride to Antigua took 90 minutes. It was a scenic ride. Along the way, sometime, we could see coffee farms, massive sugar cane fields, and the Volcano De Fuego erupting every 15-20 minutes. Unfortunately, we were sitting on the wrong side of the bus and didn't have a good picture of the erupting volcano.

Antigua was an ancient city consisting of many old buildings and cobblestone streets. There were a lot of tourists visiting the town. After we arrived, we first went to the Hill of the Cross across the city to the far north end. The ongoing construction was on the spot, but it has an unobstructed view of Antigua and Volcano Agua. The area is free of charge, but a guy with a firefight uniform asked for a $2 donation on the path, which we did. On the way down to the town center, we walked through the quiet neighborhood, and the local houses were very distinctive, which we liked very much, and we thought we could stay there overnight or two. The main tourist attraction in Antigua is Santa Catalina Arch. Tourists and local vendors filled the area. We took some pictures and moved on.

We stopped by a couple of churches and ancient ruins, and then it was time to find a place to have some decent Guatemalan food. We went to Rincon Tipico, highly recommended by the Lonely Planet tour book we bought before the trip. The small restaurant was in the courtyard with simple bench tables. The chicken and potato were cooked over coals. Ordering food in non-English speaking places is always a challenge for us. Their menu on the wall was in Spanish with pictures. We had one chicken plate with potato and another chicken dish with a bowl of soup; all were very delicious. After lunch, we hit two more tourist spots before returning to our bus at 1 pm. We only had four hours to spare, and it was definitely not enough time to explore the area.

After another 90 minutes bus ride, we returned to the pier and spent some time at the market. We had fresh coconut water, local beer, and Guatemala Coffee, an excellent and happy ending to our very short Guatemala visit.

Jan 22: We were supposed to go to Nicaragua today. Probably for some safety reasons, We were informed that the Port of call to Nicaragua had been canceled when we boarded the ship in San Diego, and it was changed to another sea day. As usual, we went to deck 11 Garden Cafe for breakfast around 7:30 am and walked around the ship on deck 7. Typically, we would walk 8000 to 10,000 steps in the morning on a sea day. Last few days, some sea wildlife always accompanied our ship to make our walking routine more enjoyable. Today we had no exception. Seabirds accompanied us along the way, bringing much happiness to the boring sea travel. We brought our Sony Camera and took many photos.

Today was also the Chinese New Year, Spring Festival. The ship was slightly decorated, and every time we entered a restaurant or cafe, the staff would say "gong xi fa cai" to us. This is a rabbit year, so the food sculptures of rabbits, made of watermelon, fruits, veggies, etc., were everywhere. We broke our promise not to return to the Chin Chin Asia restaurant. We thought having a Chinese New Year dinner at the Chinese Restaurant would be appropriate to celebrate our holiday, even if the food would not meet our expectations. They didn't serve any unique dishes for the holiday. The food this time seemed to be a little better than the first time we had tried it; of course, we stayed away from that chicken dish.

Jan 23: We arrived early this morning at Puntarenas, Costa Rica. We had signed up for a crocodile river tour with the cruise. We waited in the theater for a while to go on the tour until we realized something was wrong after 30 minutes passing the scheduled time. We talked to the short excursion staff in the theater and were told that the original half-day tour was canceled. We didn't receive any cancellation notification and were a bit disappointed. We went ashore to book a local tour that cost us half what we would pay for the cruise tour. Eight of the passengers from the cruise were packed into a van. The first stop was a private property near the main highway to see the monkeys. A group of white face monkeys lives in the area. You pay $3 per person to feed the monkey with crackers. When you held the crackers in your hand, the monkey jumped to your head to take them from you and eat them. It was fun, and we took a few nice pictures with monkeys on our shoulders. Most time, after eating the food, they would get off us. But one of the monkeys jumped on one of us and stayed on her head for a while. It was a hilarious experience.

Our next stop was The Original Crocodile River Tour. We boarded a boat down the Rio Grande de Tárcoles, home to approximately 2,000 crocodiles. Surprisingly we only saw one motionless giant crocodile and several small ones. We saw several types of birds and black monkeys in the trees. Then we made a short stop at another private property to see Macaws. The tour was not exceptional, but it was okay. Today, we just got the first taste of Pura Vida in Costa Rica. Next month we will come back for ten more days.

After returning to the ship for a short rest in the afternoon, we got off again and walked around the pier. We walked along the beach to the lighthouse and watched the locals playing soccer and relaxing on the beach as the sun set on the horizon. The Ticas must enjoy their simple life. Before boarding the ship, we couldn't resist another fresh coconut. The last time in Guatemala was $1; today, it was $2 in Costa Rica.

Jan 25: Yesterday was the last full sea day before the Panama Canal, and we were lucky to see the stingrays jumping out of the water. We took pictures using the 70-300 mm lens, but it wasn't long enough to get a clear picture. We felt so lucky to see different sea creatures every day for four days at sea and spent hours watching them each day.

Passing the Panama Canal is always on our bucket list. We had wanted to do this for a while. We found this one-way cruise to take us through the Panama Canal and start our Central/South America trip. Today is the canal crossing day. Crossing the Panama Canal consists of three locks and three bridges from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea. Our ship was scheduled starting at 6 am and ending around 4 pm, for about ten hours. We got up early before dawn, and went to the bow on deck 8 about 15 minutes before 6 am. Based on the schedule, the ship would pass under the Bridge of the Americas, completed in 1962 at the cost of $20 million from the United States of America, around 6 am. The bow area on deck 8, which was closed to the public during the cruise, was supposed to be opened to the public during canal passing. When we arrived on the 8th floor, People were lined up to wait for the bow area to open. We hesitated to go elsewhere because we were afraid of missing seeing the bridge, so we patiently waited in line. The bow area was finally opened after 6 am, but we indeed missed the bridge. The Bridge of Americas was already far away when we entered the bow area. Very disappointed.

There were several places on the ship to watch the Panama Canal passing. We just went up and down to find the best position to see the canal passing and to take pictures. One of us even sits under the flag pole to have the best view and enable her to take photos without reflection from the glass shield. In the middle of the day, it became hot and humid. So we mostly stayed inside the view lounge in the afternoon. We also saw our sister ship the NCL Joy cruise ship in the middle of the lake of the canal, which we were on that ship three months ago, and the Joy happened to cross the canal in the opposite direction. What a small world!

After crossing the canal, our final destination, Colon, was nearby, but the cruise ship was not scheduled to dock tonight. Instead, the ship sailed to the Caribbean Sea for a big loop. There was nothing to see since it was getting dark. In the meantime, the vessel encountered strong winds and waves, which made us seasick. Passing the Panama Canal today meant that our 12-day cruise was ending, and tomorrow we would disembark and start our independent trip.

1/13: 提前一天开始了我们的中南美州之旅。前一阵子不断有飞机航班取消和延误的新闻,而前二天全美国飞行系统出故障造成所有飞机短暂停运后,让我们觉得有必要避免上船当天坐飞机,临时决定改机票提前一天来到圣地亚哥。顺利到达圣地亚哥机场后,原准备叫Uber 或Lyft, 结果发现市区公交车很方便又便宜,且车站就在停机楼门外。坐着公交车十分钟便来到历史小区-油灯区附近的酒店。放下行李之后直奔海边,先吃上几个Taco垫底后,就上了当地的海湾游船在海湾里转了一个小时。船上的讲解员蛮不错的,嘴没停过。下了船后走去油灯区,有点失望,冷冷清清几乎没人。晚上在酒店里吃上简单的晚餐之后又再次去油灯区走走,比下午稍好些, 虽然满街都是饭店和酒吧又是周五晚上,但还是没有想像中那么热闹。

1/14: 中午才上游轮,早上还有几个小时可以转悠。早餐后我们先去意大利小区转了一圈,正赶上周末集市,看到一些以前没见过的小吃,在那里喝了一杯墨西哥的猪肉汤,味道很不错。回酒店拿了行李之后我们便登上NCL Jewel游轮,正式开启我们中南美洲行的第一段-十二天圣地亚哥至巴拿马游。傍晚游船在大雨中慢慢地驶离圣地亚哥港。

上船后第一晚就去了船上一家中餐馆,实在太失望。尤其是要的宫保鸡丁从来没吃过这么差的,估计不会再去了。试了西式餐厅,味道还可以。

 1/16: 我们的船自14号晚上离开圣地亚哥之后,一路南下,今天(16号)早上来到第一站墨西哥的Cabo San Lucas。晴空万里,气温在70F左右。一年多前刚来过这里,今天故地重游。我们没有什么特别活动,沿着海滩走了三,四个小时,中午就在海滩边一家酒店的Taco Bar每人两个Taco, 味道不错。回船前,还去了一家当地的咖啡店,一是用一下WiFi,二是喝杯咖啡休息一下,$2.5一杯拿铁味道相当不错,价格也不错,是船上的一半。今天天气好、玩得很轻松,晚上会去看一下魔术表演。

 1/17: 昨天晚上离开Cabo San Lucas, 今天(一月十七日)中午来到Vallarta港。今天早上很幸运,在海上不时有鲸鱼陪伴我们。一年多前我们也来过Vallarta 港,很漂亮。当初我们俩是自由行,坐了公交车,也坐了Uber。这次我们参加了龙舌兰酒庄游,先把我们带去市中心,市政府楼和教堂,然后就去老城区的珠宝店,陶瓷店和皮革店,最后来到旧酒庄,那里好像已不再用于生产了,而是专做旅游服务了。介绍了龙舌兰酒生产过程,请大家品味六种不同的龙舌兰酒,每人总共喝六杯。看着别人一小杯一小杯喝,我们俩加一起也没喝到半小杯,真是便宜了酒庄😜。洒庄里还有卖Taco。酒后在那里每人要了个Taco, 有鸡肉和猪肉,饼是手工现做的,$2一个。这几天在外面天天吃Taco,看着很简单,但觉得就是比美国的好吃。回到船上已是晚餐的时间,晚餐很不错,蛮合我们胃口。今晚的餐厅人不太多,估计因为船离开得晚,好多人还在岸上晃悠。

 1/19: 经过又一天的海上航行,今天一早停靠墨西哥阿卡普尔科(Acapulco), 上午上岸后先自由行看了一下当地教堂,又沿海边走了一段。看到当地的渔民在水边直接烧火煎鱼子,先在生鱼子上撒些盐,然后是热油,大蒜🧄,鱼子下锅直接煎,非常馋人,味道肯定不错,但没敢尝试一下。Acapulco 是一个旅游度假城市,最近在Netflix秀Human Playground 中看到海边悬崖峭壁跳水的一集,所以这次来此的亮点就是去看跳水表演,名符其实值得一看。今天烈日当空,外面转了几个小时,就有点受不了,不知下面几星期继续往南走,天气会是怎么样。

 1/21: 昨天在海上航行一天。上午风平浪静,只有我们船开过时海面才泛起阵阵涟漪,很美,看着像画。坐了不少游轮,好像还是第一次看到如此平静的大海,时而可以看到海龟们在海上漂游。

今天一早来到瓜地马拉最大的港口,也是我们到过的最小游轮码头之一。码头上只有一个为游客开的市场,周围其它一点东西都没有。几乎所有游客都参团去了安地瓜古城-旧首都。有不少古建筑,当地的民居也很有特色,整个小城很漂亮,就是游客多一点,玩的时间也不够,以后有机会该在那里住上二,三天。从码头到安地瓜开车一个半小时,一路上可以看到火山喷发的白烟,咖啡农庄,甘蔗田等。在城里转了一圈后,在一家小店里吃上当地的午餐,还不错。在码头边,喝上新鲜的椰子水,当地的啤酒和瓜地马拉咖啡,也算是给瓜地马拉游划上一个美好的句号。

 1/23: 昨天应该去尼加拉瓜的,可能是因为安全原因,上船后被告知取消了停靠那里而改成又一天海上航行。一路上有海鸟们陪伴着我们,给平淡的海上行带来不少快乐,拍了不少照片。昨天春节,船上也稍稍布置一下,每次进餐厅工作人员会对我们说恭禧发财,也算有点气氛了。

今天一早来到了哥斯达黎加的Puntarenas, 原本订半日游被取消了,也没通知我们,有点失望。我们自己上岸找了一个当地的半日游,带我们去看了小猴子,鳄鱼,各种🦜等,结果还是很完美的。今天算是先来哥斯达黎加探探路,下个月我们还会回来自由行。下午回船稍做休息后又下船,在码头附近走一圈,新鲜椰子汁肯定少不了的,上次在瓜地马拉$1一个,今天在哥斯达里加$2一个。

 1/25: 昨天是到巴拿马运河前的最后一整天海上航行,很幸运,除了鲸鱼,海豚,鸟之类的,又看到了新动物-黄貂鱼(sting ray),还是第一次看见黄貂鱼跳出水面。四天海上航行,每天有不同动物陪伴着我们,我们时常会花上几个小时在甲板上或者阳台上捕捉它们的身影。

坐游轮过巴拿马运河是我们最向往的旅游项目之一。今天终于迎来这一天。一早天没亮就起床,上串下跳的找最佳位置看及拍照。过运河一共过三个船闸,穿过三座大桥,早上六点开始到下午四点从太平洋来到加勒比海,整整十个小时。今天还碰巧了与我们三个月前刚坐过的NCL Joy游轮在运河中间的湖中相遇,Joy正好是反方向过运河。今天过巴拿马运河意味着我们这次12天游轮即将结束,明天就要下船了,开始我们的自由行。

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