Keelung Port 基隆港

Oct. 30, 2023: Last evening aboard the ship, we had the pleasure of attending the final concert featuring Mary-Jess, a soprano from the United Kingdom. This marked our third time witnessing her performance during the voyage, each time left enchanted by her melodious voice. Mary-Jess, an alumna of Nanjing University and a winner of the Chinese X-Factor, is fluent in Mandarin, which she skillfully incorporates into her performances by speaking a few phrases in Chinese and singing a Chinese song. The cruise director, a French national raised in Chile and now residing in Taiwan, is also proficient in Mandarin, as is the ship's general manager, who hails from China. The ship boasted a considerable number of Chinese-speaking guests.

Upon the ship's arrival at Keelung Harbor this morning, we savored our final breakfast. Over the span of 27 days, our mornings were consistently greeted with a freshly prepared omelet, a croissant, and a cup of coffee - a simple yet fulfilling routine, with the extensive buffet offerings failing to tempt our appetites further. Post-breakfast, we disembarked and proceeded to take a train to Taipei Railway Station, followed by a transfer to the airport express line leading to Taoyuan Airport, experiencing firsthand the efficiency of Taiwan's public transport system.

Arriving slightly ahead of schedule at the airport, we were momentarily stalled by airline’s early check-in restrictions, leading us to settle for a less-than-satisfactory bowl of wonton noodles at an airport eatery. Post check-in and customs clearance, we made our way to the airport lounge to await our flight, indulging in a second lunch accompanied by beer and coffee.

Our arrival at Shanghai Pudong Airport was clocked at 5:30 PM. In stark contrast to our experience six months prior, the airport was notably busier, with increased customs booths dedicated to international travelers. What was once a swift five-minute customs clearance had now extended to a forty-five-minute queue, inadvertently prolonging our daughter's wait to over an hour.

This journey back home was quite unique, taking twenty-seven days of sailing across oceans to reach our hometown. It might have been the extended period at sea during the initial part of the voyage, or possibly the daily outings and enjoyment when we docked in the second half, or maybe just the anticipation of homecoming, but towards the end, we found ourselves a bit weary and unfocused. Upon reaching home, the joy of reuniting with our family was immense, and having daughter by our side made it even more special.

十月三十日：昨晚在船上的最后一次音乐会我们再一次享受来自英国的女高音歌手(Mary-Jess)的演唱。我们在船上已看了她三次表演，唱得真好听。她曾留学于南京大学，获得过中国X-factor 冠军，能说一口流利的中国话，所以每次表演都会说上几句中文，唱一首中文歌。这游轮上的巡航总监是智利长大的法国人，现住在台湾，也能说中国话，而船上的总经理来自中国，船上能说中国话的游客也不少。

今天早晨船到了基隆港后，我们先去吃上最后一顿早餐。二十七天在船上，几乎每天早上一个现做的用蛋白煎的蛋卷，一个小羊角面包和一杯咖啡是必须的，简简单单，而其它数不尽的自助餐食品对我们来说一点没食欲。早餐后我们就下船坐火车去台北火车站，再换去机场专线到达桃园机场。台湾的公共交通还是非常方便的。

到机场有点早，中国民航不让我们办理登机手续，只好在机场内的餐厅先吃上一碗馄饨面，不怎么样。等办完登机手续，过海关，来到机场休息室候机，又吃上第二顿午餐，再来点啤酒，咖啡下午五点半到达上海浦东机场。与六月前相比，这次的浦东机场人多了不少，光是为外国人就开了十几个海关窗口。我们六个月前五分钟就搞定的过海关这次竟然排了四十五分钟的队才出关，白白让女儿等了一个多小时。

这次回家行程算是有点特殊，经过二十七天漂洋过海才回到家乡。也许是上半航程中太多天的海上行，也许是下半航程里每天靠岸下船游玩，也许是回家心切，到了最后几天我们觉得有点累，已心不在焉。

到家了，很高兴再次与家人团聚，而且还有女儿陪伴。

Hualien Port 花莲港

Oct. 29, 2023: Our ship arrived at Hualien Port, not far from our previous stop at Hirara Port in Japan. Our Taiwanese compatriots greeted us warmly, sang, and danced on the dock as we disembarked at six in the morning.

Our day was filled with excitement as we embarked on the shore excursion organized by the cruise during this trip: a visit to Taroko National Park. Our first stop was to capture a photo in front of the sign marking the Central Cross-Island Highway. Then, we went on a 3-kilometer hike along the breathtaking Shakadang Trail, winding beside a river valley carved by a crystal-clear stream flanked by imposing cliffs and magnificent scenery.

Our journey continued with a visit to Changchun Shrine, a solemn monument dedicated to the workers who lost their lives while constructing tunnels and trails. However, our enthusiasm waned slightly when we reached the park's visitor center, which offered little to see and lacked any refreshment options. This unexpected downtime cost us fifty precious minutes of exploration.

But our spirits were soon lifted when our guide suggested a visit to Qi Xing Tan, an additional attraction. Here, we indulged in the delectable delights offered by street vendors, including small sausage wrapped with rice, scallion pancakes, and grilled squid. The flavors were simply divine, especially after our adventurous day left us famished.

As our nearly four-week cruise journey draws to a close, we anticipate our arrival at Keelung Port tomorrow. It's a bittersweet moment as we bid farewell to our voyage and eagerly anticipate returning home.

十月二十九日：花莲港离上一站日本的平良港不远，早上六点船就靠岸了。台湾同胞也很热情，在码头上唱歌跳舞欢迎我们。

今天我们参加游轮组织的岸上游，去了太鲁阁国家公园，也是这次游轮中我们唯一一次参加游轮组织的岸上游。先在东西横贯公路门牌前照个相，然后就去溪谷边的砂卡当步道徒步3公里，狭谷被清澈的溪流切割而成，岩壁陡峭，景色壮观。

接着来到长春祠，那是为纪念修建隧道和步道而牺牲的劳工们而建造的。参观完长春祠后，导游就把我们放在公园游客中心。中心实在沒什么可看，并且居然没任何吃的地方，更别说喝咖啡和吃甜点了，白白浪费了五十分钟。回到大巴，导游说带我们去七星潭，算是外加的景点。在那里，从街头小贩那里要了大肠包小肠，葱油饼和烤鱿鱼, 那味道太棒了，饿晕了的时候真是什么都好吃。

明天就要下船了，近四个星期的游轮行也将在基隆港结束，终于可以回家了。

Miyakojima 宫古岛平良港

Oct. 28, 2023: Today marked our arrival at the final Japanese port of this journey, Hirara Port on Miyakojima. The ship docked at 8 a.m., and due to restrictions on walking on the pier, shuttle buses provided by the port transported passengers directly to the terminal building at the pier's end. Miyakojima, part of the Okinawa archipelago, is not very large and lacks any particularly prominent tourist attractions.

Following a route recommended by local volunteers, we set out to explore. Apart from fellow passengers from our ship, few people were on the streets. Our first stop was Miyako Shrine, followed by a leisurely stroll along the coastline. Spotting a small shop with a queue, we hurried over to investigate. It turned out to specialize in seaweed-wrapped rice with canned spam and eggs. We didn't want to miss out today after seeing many similar shops at Naha Port in Okinawa yesterday but not having tried them. A sign on the counter mentioned sashimi, and upon inquiry, we were directed to a fish shop across the street, highly recommended for its offerings. It turned out to be a delightful breakfast experience.

We then ventured to a nearby beach, dipped our feet in the water, and continued exploring the tiny port's main street. Most shops were closed, and the area was deserted, with tourists like us searching for open establishments. Anticipating this, we enjoyed a comforting meal of local noodle soup and Japanese sweet red bean porridge at a small restaurant.

A Halloween event at the seaside park was reportedly arranged explicitly for our ship's arrival, featuring performances and snacks. Unfortunately, rain began shortly after our arrival, prompting us to seek shelter and forego further dining adventures. As we departed Japan today, we had to clear Japanese customs before returning to the ship. The boarding line was exceptionally long, so we decided to wait at a nearby coffee shop, where we enjoyed conversations with fellow Taiwanese passengers. Finally, back on board, our journey in Japan came to a close.

In anticipation of our ship’s arrival in Taiwan tomorrow, the Garden Café adorned in beautiful Chinese-style decorations.

十月二十八日：今天我们来到这次行程的最后一个日本港口，宫古岛的平良港。早上8点船停靠在码头，因为码头上不允许行走，下船有专车直接送到码头终点站楼前。宫古岛是冲绳群岛中的一个，岛不大，也没什么特别的旅游景点。我们就按照当地义工推荐的线路走。街头上除了我们船下来的游客外，几乎没什么人。先去宫古神社看了看，接着就沿海边走。看见一处小店有人排队，赶紧过去看看，是专卖紫菜包饭夹午餐肉和鸡蛋的。昨天在冲绳岛的那霸港看见许多卖这个小吃的，昨天没吃，今天不能再错过。柜台上有个牌子说有生鱼片，问了一下说是对面鱼店的，推荐给我们，还真是很不错的一顿早点心。接着走到不远处的海滩，稍微湿了湿脚又继续往小港口的主街区走，大部分店都没开，冷清清的，路上都是和我们一样的游客满街找店。我们有备而来，在一家小饭店里吃了当地的汤面和日本甜点红豆粥。

海边公园里今天有万圣节活动，据说是专门为我们船的到来而举办的，有些演唱及小吃。可惜我们刚到那里就开始下雨，忙着躲雨没了心情找吃的。因为今天就要离开日本，所以要过日本海关才能回船。回船的队非常非常长，索性去了边上的咖啡店边喝边等，顺便与同船的台湾同胞聊聊天。

终于回到船上，日本游也到此结束。

Naha Port, Okinawa Island冲绳岛那霸港

Oct. 27, 2023: Our ship docked at Naha Port on Okinawa Island this morning after visiting two small ports in the last two days. Naha Port is considered a major port with well-established facilities.

Our primary objective for the day was to explore the castles and parks on the outskirts. Naha Port offers convenient transportation options, including buses and monorail trains. In just over an hour, we reached Shuri Castle on the outskirts. Originally the palace of the Ryukyu Kingdom, it was built in the style of the Forbidden City. Unfortunately, the main hall inside the castle walls was entirely destroyed by a fire in 2019 and is currently undergoing reconstruction.

After departing from the castle, we discovered a nearby local cultural heritage site – the Kinjo Stone Path, an old stone pathway with steep steps. Traditional guesthouses lined the pathway, highlighting the daily challenges faced by residents in their comings and goings. At an intersection, we encountered well-preserved traditional Japanese village houses.

Walking along the tranquil stone pathway, we stumbled upon a restaurant at the end, a delightful find. We relished a delicious and reasonably priced Japanese hot pot and noodle soup for two.

Following lunch, we climbed over a small hill. We embarked on a journey of over thirty minutes to reach Shikina-en, the royal garden of the Ryukyu Kingdom, once favored as a vacation spot for Chinese emperors. While wandering through the garden, we unexpectedly saw someone filming a video. Although unsure whether they were celebrity or an internet sensation, we were captivated by a young man playing the Sanshin and singing beautifully.

We returned to the city center by bus and explored the commercial district, where we indulged in some delectable sushi made with black-haired wagyu beef, renowned for its tenderness. Although most shops along the main commercial street offered various tourist souvenirs, we felt genuinely distinctive Japanese items were lacking.

十月二十七日:接连去了二个小港，今天早上我们的船来到冲绳岛的那霸港，算是个大港，周围设施完善。

今天主要想看郊外的城堡和公园。大港口到底不一样，公交车，单轨铁路都很方便。一个多小时便来到郊外的首里城堡，原是琉球王国的皇宫，按紫禁城建造的，又是一个世界遗产名录的景点，只可惜城墙里面的大殿在2019年被大火全部烧毁了，正在全部重建。

出了城堡，附近有一个当地的文化遗产 - 旧时的石道，坡度很大，还有阶梯。石道二旁还都是民宿，感叹当地的居民每天进出是有多么不方便。路口边还保留着收拾得非常干净的日本传统村屋。沿着幽静的石道往下走，在石道的尽头看到一家餐厅，走进去发现真是找对地方了。俩人吃上一顿物美价廉的日本火锅和汤面。

饭后，我们爬过小山坡，走了三十多分钟来到识名园，琉球王国的皇家花园，以前还用于中国皇帝度假的地方。在花园里，正遇见拍摄小视频，也不知是哪个明星或网红。看了一会儿，弹琴唱歌的男生唱得真不错。

坐公交车回到市中心，在商业区里转一大圈，尝试了一下黑毛和牛寿司，好吃，很嫩。整条商业主街上以卖各种旅游纪念品的商店为主，但觉得真正有日本特色的并不多。

Amami Oshima 奄美大岛

Oct. 26, 2023: Today, we docked at another small port, and there aren't many attractions in Amami City. While many tourists opted for the beaches, we decided to visit a traditional Japanese kimono and silk fabric workshop on the outskirts by the public bus. The workshop was fascinating; they still utilize traditional dyeing and weaving techniques that have been practiced for over a thousand years. The silk fabrics they produce are primarily used for kimonos. Due to the entirely manual production process and the high skill level required, genuine silk fabric production is very time-consuming, resulting in expensive prices.

Upon returning to the city center, we had hoped to try the local delicacy, chicken rice, but unfortunately, the dish in the restaurant sold out. Instead, we settled for sashimi and fried pork cutlet. In the evening, we continued to enjoy sashimi and sushi on the ship. We've had quite a lot of sashimi during this journey in Japan.

十月二十六日：今天停靠的又是个小港，奄美市区也没什么景点，许多游客去了海滩，我们去了郊外的日本和服丝绸布制作坊参观。制作坊很有意思，在那里，至今还采用了有一千多年的传统染色和编织技术，所织丝绸布料主要用于和服。因为真丝布料制作过程完全是手工，技术要求相当高，非常耗时，所以布料价格昂贵。

回到市中心后，想吃当地美食鸡饭，可餐厅卖完了，只能又要了个刺身便饭，还有炸猪排。晚上在船上继续吃刺身和寿司。这一程日本游刺身吃了不少。

Sasebo Port 佐世保港

Oct. 25, 2023: Since we arrived in Tokyo, our cruise has been docking at different ports daily, resembling a river cruise experience. Each morning after breakfast, we disembarked and utilized public transportation or walked to explore the nearby attractions near the port. We typically spend about five to six hours each day on these excursions, covering a distance of at least twenty to thirty thousand steps. After a few days, we're starting to feel a bit tired. Today, we decided to take a break and leisurely stroll around the nearby streets, not going on any trips to the Kujukushima National Park on the outskirts.

Sasebo Port, a Japanese naval stronghold near China and Korea, greeted us as our ship sailed into its bay. The aura of military activity was palpable from the moment we arrived. Relaxing on the outdoor deck at the back of the ship, we were serenaded by the crew's cheerful "coffee, coffee" chant while taking in the breathtaking vistas of the Saikai Bridge and the Hario Radio Tower. This towering structure once transmitted the coded signal that initiated the Pearl Harbor Attack. The weather blessed us with its perfection on this memorable day.

Our first destination was Sasebo 5Bangai, followed by a stroll to a Cathedral church and Tono market. Our journey continued to Saruku City 4O3 Arcade, renowned as Japan's longest shopping street, stretching for a kilometer. While shopping wasn't our priority, we delighted in a delightful Japanese-Western fusion lunch at a restaurant along the bustling arcade, impressed by its exceptional quality. We visited the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force Museum in the afternoon to learn about Japan's history.

Before our ship departed in the evening, a local female singer serenaded us with several beautiful songs on the dock as a farewell gesture.

十月二十五日：自从来到东京后游轮是每天靠岸，有点像河上游。我们更是每天早餐后就下船，利用公共交通和＂1 1路＂在海港附近景点转转，花上五，六个小时，每天至少走二，三万步，几天下来有点累了。今天给自已请个假，就在附近街头看看，不去郊外的国家公园。

在城里1公里长购物街号称是日本最长的购物街，但购物对我们来说并没有吸引力，我们就在街上一家日式西餐厅里吃了顿日西结合的午餐，还不错。下午参观日本自卫海军博物馆，了解一点日本的历史。佐世保港是日本的军港，离中国和韩国很近。

晚上我们的船离开前，当地的一位女歌手在码头上唱了一首又一首好听的歌为我们送行。

Nichinan 日南市

Oct. 24, 2023: Once again, we arrived at a new port. However, the port where we docked, Aburatsu Port, is approximately 1.5 miles away from the center of Nichinan. There are several attractions around the city that we wished to visit, but upon checking, we discovered that while there are buses available, they aren't very convenient. Typically, if the port is far from the city center, free shuttle buses would be provided. However, this time, the cruise only offered shuttle buses for $15 per person, and we had to endure long queues for them. Initially, we lined up for the shuttle bus but eventually opted for a taxi. We agreed to share a cab with two fellow passengers, but after waiting in line for over half an hour, we were informed that all the taxis had been hired out. Our only recourse was to walk from the ship terminal to the city center. We were told that there were temporary shuttle buses to Obi Castle and Udo Shrine near the city center. Consequently, the four of us embarked on a walking journey of over half an hour to reach the city center.

Obi Castle, near Nichinan City, is dubbed "Little Kyoto." Although the ancient Obi Castle dates back to the 15th century, what we observed were primarily recent reconstructions. In China, Korea, and Japan, numerous newly constructed historical sites can become somewhat tiresome to visit after a while, as they don't quite capture the authenticity of the originals.

In small towns in Japan, restaurants typically close from 2 to 5 p.m. We couldn't find any dining options near the tourist attractions, and even upon returning to the city center, we struggled to locate a restaurant for lunch. Upon consulting with locals, they suggested visiting the supermarket. Consequently, we purchased a box of sushi, rice balls, and beverages to satisfy our hunger.

Following that, the two of us strolled along the seaside. The Gion-jinja shrine concealed within the coastal caves was remarkably unique, and Nichinankaigan National Park left a lasting impression. The distinctive rock formations sculpted by wind and rain along the coast evoked memories of the scenic beauty of the "Great Ocean Road" in Melbourne, Australia. Vending machines selling all kinds of drinks are everywhere in Japan, but we found a vending machine with the lowest price while walking back to the ship.

As we returned to the terminal, a quaint market had sprung up for passengers. Though we didn't linger, the sight was bustling. At dusk, our ship gracefully eased away from the dock while a local music and dance troupe entertained us, creating a truly enchanting farewell scene.

十月二十四日：又来到一个新港口。但停靠的海港，油津港离市中心约1.5英里，城市周围有几个景点想去看看，但查了一下有公交车但不是很方便。一般来说，如果码头离市中心很远，码头会提供免费专车，可这次游轮提供专车，收15美金一人，而且还要排长队等车。我们先是排队等专车，然后决定改坐出租车出去，且与另外两位游客说好一起包车，结果排队排了半个多小时后，说出租车都包没了。唯一的选择只能是从船码头走去市中心，说是市中心有临时专车去饫肥城和鹈户神宫，我们俩就与那两位游客一起走了半个多小时来到市中心。去日南市附近的饫肥城号称＂小京都＂，饫肥古城堡建于十五世纪，但现在看到的都是近年来重新建的。中国，韩国和日本好多都是历史的新建筑，看多了有点厌了， 就是与看真货的感觉不一样。

在日本小地方，下午二点到五点餐厅休息，在景区附近没找到吃的，回到市中心后，也找不到饭店吃午饭，问了当地人，说是去超市吃。没办法就在超市里买了一盒寿司，饭团和饮料充饥。

然后我们俩沿着海边往回走，海边藏在山洞里的神社⛩️很有特色，日南海岸国定公园也不错，海边风吹雨打形成的奇特石岩更是觉得有点＂小太阳路＂的景观。

Hiroshima 广岛

Oct. 23, 2023: Today, the sky was clear, and our ship arrived at Hiroshima in the morning, the most anticipated destination of this cruise trip. The pilot boat accompanied our ship into the port with a welcoming water show, which was very nice. Once again, we chose to embark on a self-guided tour. Upon disembarking, we purchased a day pass for sightseeing, which included bus fare and a ferry ticket to Miyajima Island.

Taking a tram to Miyajima Pier, we then boarded a ferry for a fifteen-minute journey to Miyajima. The island is renowned for Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. During high tide, the shrine gate ⛩️ appears to float on the water's surface. Unfortunately, it was low tide upon our arrival, and the shrine gate's pillars were still visible.

Our first culinary adventure involved trying the local specialty, grilled oysters, which, to our disappointment, were average and didn't suit our palates. Raw oysters remained our preference. Conversely, the grilled squid was quite delightful. We then ventured uphill to Momijidani Park, although the maple leaves had only begun to change color, lacking the vibrant hues we had anticipated. Descending, we continued our quest for street food, indulging in skewers of grilled meat, grilled squid, and some grilled mochi balls. Finally, we treated ourselves to some ice cream, constituting our lunch. Another notable feature of the island is its wild deer, akin to those we encountered in Nara Park a few days earlier. However, the deer here were less mannered and would boldly snatch food from tourists. Throughout the meal, we had to fend off the wild deer constantly.

Inside Itsukushima Shrine, we were greeted by a serene and enchanting atmosphere. After purchasing tickets, we wandered around the shrine grounds. As the tide gradually rose, the shrine ⛩️ seemingly floated on the water, presenting an increasingly breathtaking sight. With the island bustling with tourists, we opted not to linger for too long instead of catching the ferry and tram back to Hiroshima. Thankfully, the day pass we had purchased for buses and ferries spared us considerable inconvenience, facilitating our boarding and disembarking.

Boarding the tram to Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, we beheld the only preserved Atomic Bomb Dome. Located directly at the epicenter of the atomic bomb explosion, the dome remarkably withstood the blast with minimal damage, remaining upright. While we had intended to visit the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, the lengthy queue dissuaded us. Instead, we spent some time at the nearby Atomic Bomb Victims Memorial Hall, which was thoughtfully constructed.

Initially, we had planned to sample Hiroshima-style fried noodles in the city center. However, after an unsuccessful search, we hurried back. Near the station, we enjoyed a satisfying and affordable meal at a Japanese chain restaurant, relishing a bowl of noodle soup and tempura.

十月二十三日：今天晴空万里，广岛是这次游轮行中最期待的地方，我们还是自游行。下船后买了一日游的联票，包括公交车以及去宫岛的船票。先乘坐有轨电车去宫岛码头，然后又坐了十五分钟的渡轮来到宫岛。岛上有世界遗产名录的严岛神社，高潮时，神社门⛩️就像浮在水面上。我们刚到时，正好是低潮，神社门柱还都露底。岛上另一特色是野鹿，有点像几天前在奈良公园看到的，不过这里的野鹿比较不文明，会抢游客的食物。

我们先尝试当地特色烤生蚝，但觉得一般，并不适合我们的口味，生蚝还是生的好吃。烤鱿鱼倒是不错。然后就上山去红枫公园，但红枫还刚刚开始变色，几乎没什么颜色。下山后就继续在街上找吃的，要了几串烤肉，烤鱿鱼，还有烤的小圆子最后再来一个冰淇淋，算是当午餐了。吃的时候不停地躲野鹿。

岛上的严岛神社里面非常美，买票进去走一圈看了一下，那时开始涨潮了，神社⛩️慢慢开始有点浮在水中的感觉，越来越漂亮。岛上游客相当多，我们没在岛上呆太久，就坐渡轮和有轨电车回广岛。我们这次幸好买公交渡轮一日通，省了不少麻烦，上下车方便很多。

乘坐有轨电车来到广岛和平纪念公园，目睹了唯一保存的原爆圆顶。因为原子弹爆发中心正好在圆顶建筑的上空，它收到冲击波最小而生存下来。想去广岛和平纪念博物馆看，但因排队太长而放弃，就在附近的原爆受害者纪念堂待了一会儿，纪念堂修建的很不错。

原本还准备在广岛商业街中心尝试一下他们的炒面，走了一圈没找到，就匆匆赶回去。在车站附近一家日本连锁店里吃上一碗汤面和天妇罗等，又是价廉物美的一顿。

Osaka, Nara 大阪，奈良

Oct. 21, 2023: Today, our cruise ship stayed overnight in Osaka, giving us more time to explore the nearby  area. In the early morning, we took the subway to Osaka Castle. Despite just opening, the castle was already bustling with crowds. Alongside the tourist groups, there were numerous local high school student groups. It appears that extracurricular activities in Japan are often scheduled for weekends. Inside the castle, it was even more crowded. The castle boasts eight floors, and ascending the narrow stairs felt akin to being packed in sardines. Although the top floor offers an observation deck, we refrained from venturing out to observe and simply descended even upon reaching the eighth floor. Visitor restrictions would likely have been implemented long ago in the United States.

After leaving the castle, we boarded the subway directly to Nara, Japan's ancient capital. Upon arrival, we indulged in a bowl of noodle soup and sampled Japan's zero-carb noodles. The flavors were delightful, and the food was quite affordable; two bowls of noodle soup cost less than fifteen US dollars. A visit to Nara wouldn't be complete without encountering the deer. These deer have roamed freely in the city for generations, fostering a harmonious relationship with humans. Within the park, Nara's deer frequently approach tourists for food, with vendors selling deer treats along the pathways. When you offer them food, they gracefully bow their heads in return. Witnessing a group of deer crossing the street at a pedestrian crossing was particularly captivating.

A small café inside the park serves tea, coffee, and some simple desserts. We took our break at the cafe, but the food was disappointing. We continued to explore the area, including the UNESCO World Heritage sites such as Kasuga Shrine and the Great Buddha Hall of Todai-ji Temple, followed by another break at a different café serving English afternoon tea.

In the late afternoon, a drizzle commenced, bringing a chill to the air. Following our tour of Nara, we returned to the cruise ship, donned warmer attire, and disembarked again to explore Namba, Osaka's bustling downtown district. The atmosphere was electrifying, perhaps the most extensive and liveliest night market we've encountered. Unlike Taipei and Seoul, dining establishments were predominantly street-facing shops. In addition to sampling the ubiquitous grilled chestnuts, we discovered a barbecue restaurant and savored a dinner of sashimi and grilled seafood, which were delectable. It was a fantastic opportunity to immerse ourselves in the experience of Japanese barbecue.

On Oct. 22, our cruise ship is scheduled to depart from Osaka around noon. After breakfast, we quickly headed to explore the Osaka Umeda commercial district. However, upon arrival, we discovered that most shops and restaurants wouldn't open until 11 o'clock. After searching for a while, all we could find was a seafood rice ball wrapped in seaweed, which wasn't very tasty, and we couldn't find anything else appetizing to eat. Feeling unsatisfied, we lingered until 11 o'clock when the shops finally opened. Unlike last night's night market, this area was dominated by large malls rather than small food streets. There were so many tempting offerings in the food section of the malls we couldn't possibly try them all. The freshly made red bean cakes were mainly delightful and warm. The freshly sliced dried squid had a distinct taste, without preservatives. After purchasing it, the seller even reminded us to consume it within four days. It's a regret we didn't have enough time to stay longer; we had to rush back to the ship terminal.

As the ship slowly eased away from the dock, the vibrant melodies of a local band filled the air, and crowds gathered on the terrace, waving and cheering as they bid farewell to the departing passengers. We had a wonderful diner at the main dining restaurant on the ship.

十月二十一日：今天游轮在大阪过夜，一早我们乘坐地铁去大阪城堡。城堡刚开门，可那里已是人山人海，除了旅游团，更多的是当地中学生团体的，看来在日本课外活动是放在周末做的。进到城堡后那更是摩肩擦踵，城堡一共有八层，从狭窄的楼梯一层层往上去完全就是人贴人。顶层是观望台，到了八层我们都没敢挤出去观望就往下走。在美国的话，应该早就实行人数限制了。

离开城堡后，我们坐地铁直奔奈良，日本最早的首都。下车后，先吃上一碗汤面，还尝试了日本的零克碳化物汤面，味道不错，日本饮食真是便宜，二碗汤面十五美金还不到。来奈良就是要去看花鹿，长期以来萘良鹿自由自在地生活在城里，与人和睦相处。公园里，大街小巷上奈良鹿时常走近游客要吃的，路上有小贩销售鹿食。你给它吃上一片鹿食，低个头，鹿也会低个头。特别有趣的是看着一群花鹿沿着斑马线过马路。我们还参观世界遗产春日大社和兴福寺大金堂等。

下午下点小雨，有点凉飕飕，游完奈良后我们就先回游轮，加点衣服后再次下船，去了大阪城里的难波闹市区。那里更是万头攒动、门庭若市，这大概是我们看到过的最大最热闹的夜市了。与台北和首尔不同的是饮食店都是在街面房内的。尝了尝满街都在卖的烤园子外，还找了一家烧烤店吃了顿晚饭，生鱼片加烤海鲜，味道不错，感受一下日本烧烤。

十月二十二日：今天游轮中午就要离开大阪，我们早餐后赶紧趁早去大阪梅田商业区转转。可是去到那里发现大多数商家和餐厅都要在十一点才开张，找了半天除了一个紫菜包的海鲜冷饭团，味道不怎么样，也没吃上什么好吃的。心不甘，硬是就在那里磨蹭到十一点等商店开门。与昨晚上的夜市完全不同，这里都是大的商场，而不是那种小吃街。大商场里的食品区好东西实在太多都看不过来。现做的豆沙饼热乎乎的非常好吃。现切的尤鱼丝味道就是不一样，没有防腐剂，我们买了之后特别关照我们四天内要吃完的。只可惜我们时间不够不能多待，只能匆匆赶回船码头。

Mount Fuji 富士山脚下

Oct 20, 2023: Today, we arrived at Shimizu, where we could glimpse Mount Fuji. Opting for self-guided exploration, we set out early in the morning, departing from the pier and boarding a public bus bound for Miho-no-Matsubara, renowned for its spectacular views of Mount Fuji. It was our first time navigating Japan's bus system, and we boarded from the front, unfamiliar with the procedures. However, the driver, doubling as the ticket seller, signaled us to use the rear door. We quickly grasped the system of obtaining a ticket upon boarding first, which indicates the boarding station number, and then exiting from the front door at our destination, paying based on the number of stations traveled. After approximately twenty minutes, we arrived at our destination.

We leisurely strolled along the divine pathway flanked by towering pine trees to Miho-no-Matsubara Park. A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, Miho-no-Matsubara Park sprawled to the seashore. The panoramic vista of verdant pine trees, sandy beaches, the vast ocean, and the snow-capped peak of Mount Fuji in the distance was simply breathtaking. Fortunate with favorable weather, we were treated to the awe-inspiring beauty of Mount Fuji's summit. It's said that during winter, adorned with more snow, the sight is even more enchanting.

Upon returning to the ship pier, we sought a sushi restaurant to indulge in more delectable and affordable local cuisine. Following our satisfying meal, we explored some historical sites in the city center, where elderly volunteers eagerly shared insights into the local area despite the language barrier posing some challenges when communicating in English.

As we bid farewell, dockworkers and residents waved goodbye. Looking ahead, we anticipate disembarking and exploring ashore daily, likely clocking another twenty to thirty thousand steps daily.

十月二十日：今天到达SHIMIZU, 在那里可以看到富士山。我们俩自由行，一早就出码头坐公交车去三保松原，那里有最佳角度可以看富士山。好像还是第一次在日本坐公交车，不懂那里的规矩，我们先从前门上车，结果司机兼售票员咕噜一通指着后面要我们从后门上。上车先拿票，票上有上车站号码，到站时从前门下车，按乘坐站数买票。二十几分钟后就到了目的地。我们沿着两边有高大松树耸立的神之道漫步到三保松原公园。三保松原是富士山世界保护遗产的一部分，穿过公园便来到海边。沿海岸茂盛的松树，沙滩，大海与远处白雪盖顶的富士山交结在一起的景色的确是非常美。我们算是幸运的，天气不错，富士山顶有露真容。估计冬天的时候雪更多更漂亮。

回到船码头，找了一家寿司店继续享用当地价廉物美的寿司。饭后在市中心参观一些故迹，在那里总是有年老的义工热心地向我们介绍当地的情况，即使对他们来说用英文交流有点困难。

离岸时，码头工作人员和当地居民向我们招手告别。接下来每天都会靠岸下船，估计每天又要走上二，三万步了。

Tokyo 东京

Oct. 19, 2023: Our 16-day cruise from Seattle to Tokyo concluded, but we remained on board to commence the second leg of our journey. Sailing home on a cruise ship for the first time has been quite an extraordinary experience. Initially, we anticipated relatively few passengers on board for the first leg of the journey due to long stretches at sea with few port stops. However, it was quite the opposite; numerous passengers were on the ship like us, returning to China or Japan. We encountered many others continuing on the second leg, and some even embarked on the third segment. The ship was essentially fully booked, making it even more challenging to find seats during breakfast at the buffet.

Since we were staying on for the journey but had to switch cabins, we just packed our belongings, and the room steward handled the transfer of our luggage to the assigned rooms, alleviating our worries. In the morning, we disembarked and headed to the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. The market was bustling with crowds, making navigating difficult, with long queues everywhere for food. Embracing the lively atmosphere, we queued up to purchase some bluefin tuna sushi and Japanese omelets. The flavors were delightful, and the prices were reasonable.

After exploring the market for a while, we attempted to find more food, but the overwhelming crowds and queues led us to abandon the endeavor. Departing from the fish market, we visited other attractions before indulging in sushi, egg soup, and sashimi rice at a nearby restaurant, all for less than twenty-five dollars. It was indeed a remarkable value.

The weather in Tokyo had been delightful since our arrival, in stark contrast to the rainy days we experienced during the first leg of the journey. We continued to explore the area near the cruise terminal.

Upon returning to our room this afternoon, our travel agent surprised us with a bottle of red wine and chocolate-covered strawberries, signaling a promising start to this leg of the cruise.

十月十九日：我们西雅图东京十六天游轮今天就结束了，但我们继续留在船上开始我们第二段游轮。第一次坐船漂洋过海回家也算是一次特别的经历。原本以为这第一段游程海上航行时间长而停靠港口少，船上游客也许会不太多，但完全出乎意料，船上有不少像我们一样回中国，回日本的。碰到不少像我们一样继续坐第二段的，更有一些继续坐第三段的。船基本上满客，早餐吃自助餐时，都找不到位子。

今天换房间，我们不用管，早上就下船去东京渔巿场。市场里人山人海，走路都有点难，到处都有排长队买吃的。我们也去凑个热闹，排着队买了二份蓝鳍金枪鱼寿司和蛋饼，味道还不错，价格又便宜。在市场里转了一大圈，还想找点吃的，但人实在太多，队太长，排了队又放弃了。离开渔巿场后又去其他景点转一转，然后在一家寿司店吃些寿司，蛋汤，生鱼片饭，花了不到二十五美金，真是价廉物美。

来东京后，天气特别好，非常舒服，与第一程许多阴雨天完全相反。昨天到达时，码头上敲锣打鼓欢迎我们。今天下午回到的房间，我们订票代理送来巧克力裹草莓和红酒一瓶，看来这一段游轮有个好开端。