Pudacuo NP and Songzanlin Temple 普达措公园与松赞林寺
November 1, 2024
Chenggang rose early to revisit Dukezong Temple. The temple’s serene morning atmosphere contrasted with the previous evening’s bustle; only a few early devotees were present, placing pine branches into a stone stove—a ritual unfamiliar to us. The massive prayer wheel, crowded with tourists the night before, stood still without anyone to turn it, offering a distinctly different experience.
We then boarded a direct bus to Pudacuo National Park, utilizing our park passes that included shuttle transportation. After a journey of less than an hour, we arrived at the park and promptly boarded the park shuttle. The first stop was the trailhead of a leisurely 2.2 km walkway along a creek. Instead of starting the hike immediately, we opted for breakfast at a nearby village restaurant. Following a brief meal, we returned to the trail. The hike was pleasant, with beautiful scenery enhancing the experience.
Continuing by bus, we traversed a picturesque valley adorned with vibrant fall colors. Unfortunately, there were no opportunities to disembark and explore this area further. Our next stop was Shudu Lake, where all passengers alighted. Visitors had three options: ferry, walking, or biking. Eager to bike around the lake, Chenggang inquired about rental prices but was curtly informed that bikes were not rented to individuals over 50. Disappointed, we chose to walk. Midway, we paused at a café for a coffee break. Surprisingly, despite espresso being on the menu, we had to explain its preparation to the cashier. Nonetheless, the second-floor view was stunning, providing a much-needed rest.
The shuttle then transported us to Bita Lake. There, we took a brief tour before hastening back to the city, aiming to visit Ganden Sumtseling Monastery before its closing time. Established in 1679, it is Yunnan’s largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery, often dubbed the “Little Potala Palace.” A shuttle bus conveyed us up the hill, dropping tourists at the complex’s entrance. The temple’s breathtaking beauty and traditional Tibetan architecture were captivating.
We caught the last bus back to the city and concluded the day with a delightful birthday dinner.
2024年11月1日
成刚一早便起身再次前往独克宗古城的龟山寺。清晨的寺庙宁静而美丽，与前一晚的热闹景象形成鲜明对比。此时，只有少数早起的信徒正在将松枝放入石制炉中进行祭祀活动，这种仪式我们并不熟悉。而昨晚被游客围满的巨大转经筒，此刻无人推动，静静地伫立在那里，带来完全不同的感受。
随后，我们乘坐直达巴士前往普达措国家公园，我们昨天提前买好了大巴和包含景区摆渡车的公园通票。不到一小时，我们抵达公园入口，并立即搭乘景区的环保巴士前往第一个停靠点。第一站是沿溪而建的一段2.2公里的步道起点。因为早上出门早，没吃早餐，想着来公园吃。结果步道起点没任何设施，更别说餐饮服务。我们没有立即开始徒步，而是选择到附近村里的一家庄园去碰运气。村里有些传统的藏族民居，很安静，只有那些散养的牛马悠闲地走来走去。庄园的餐厅有提供简单的早餐，一碗热乎乎的米线下肚之后我们回到步道，开始徒步。这条小径景色宜人，步行过程非常惬意。
走完小径，我们必须继续搭乘公园里的大巴去下一站。沿途大巴穿越了一片色彩斑斓的秋景山谷，遗憾的是，这一段并没有设置下车点，无法深入探索。来到第二站蜀都湖，所有游客在此下车。游览蜀都湖的三种方式包括乘船、徒步和骑行。我们本想尝试骑自行车环湖，成刚前去询问租车价格，却被直接告知：他们不向50岁以上的游客提供自行车租赁服务。很失望，于是我们选择了徒步。沿湖的栈道修得非常好，湖光山色风景秀丽。步行途中，我们在湖边的一家咖啡馆停留片刻。令人意外的是，尽管菜单上标注了“意式浓缩咖啡”，我们还是需要向收银员解释这是什么。从咖啡馆的二楼看蜀都湖，景色十分壮观，成为这段旅程中的意外惊喜，也让我们得到了宝贵的休息。
走完沿湖栈道，公园大巴又将我们送往最后一站碧塔海。在那里，我们只稍稍走了一下便急忙坐大巴返回城里，因为我们计划在关门前参观噶丹松赞林寺。
松赞林寺建于1679年，是云南省规模最大的藏传佛教寺院，被誉为“小布达拉宫”。售票窗口在山脚下，一辆寺庙摆渡大巴将我们送上山，并在寺庙入口处下车。寺庙壮丽的建筑和传统的藏式风格让人叹为观止。寺院内到处都是穿着藏族服装拍写真照的年轻人，不过所有殿堂内都不许拍照。松赞林寺很大，一圈走下来，已到关门时间，我们赶上了最后一班下山的车。回到城里后以一顿美味的生日晚餐结束了这充实的一天。
