Gulangyu Island 鼓浪屿
March 5, 2025
I took the 9:45 AM ferry from the First Ferry Terminal to Neicuo’ao. It was supposed to be a luxury ferry, but aside from everyone having their own seat, there was nothing luxurious about it—yet it cost twice as much as the standard ferry. After a short ride, I arrived at the terminal, only to be met with a shock: a dilapidated seaside building stood not too far away, immediately giving me a bad first impression. I had expected Gulangyu to be a high-end resort town with beautiful ocean views and stunning beaches, but instead, I continued to spot several more abandoned buildings occupying prime locations.
Before the trip, I had done my research, and my main goal was to walk along the coastline. I even bought an island map on the ferry to assist me. However, that plan quickly fell apart. Without any warning signs or notices, I found that several footpaths were inaccessible, either under repair or flooded. After walking downhill, I—along with other confused visitors—had no choice but to turn back and take the main roads instead. The scenic area was poorly managed, at the very least.
However, Sunlight Rock (日光岩) was an exception. The area was beautifully designed and well-maintained. As the highest point on the island, it offered panoramic views of both Gulangyu and Xiamen.
I had originally planned to visit Shuzhuang Garden, but after seeing so many traditional gardens on past trips, I decided to skip it. Instead, I went to Haoyue Park, home to the giant statue of Zheng Chenggong, the historical figure who played a key role in reclaiming Taiwan from Dutch rule in the 17th century. Unlike other parts of the island, this theme park was spacious, well-designed, and offered even more breathtaking views of Xiamen and its surroundings. I truly enjoyed my visit there.
When it was time to leave, I encountered yet another frustrating inconvenience. I was not allowed to board the short ferry back to Xiamen, as it was only for locals. Instead, I had to walk an extra 15 minutes to another ferry terminal and take a 25-minute ferry that dropped me off far from my hotel. This unnecessary detour wasted everyone’s time and fuel, not to mention its environmental impact.
After returning to Xiamen, I had one more stop: Nanputuo Temple (南普陀寺). I booked a Didi ride, but once I got in the car, the driver tried to trick me into taking a longer route by claiming the temple was about to close soon. I told him, “Just take me there, open or not.”
As expected, the temple was still open for another two hours. It was beautifully designed and well-maintained, a stark contrast to the disappointment of Gulangyu. I really enjoyed the visit.
I had skipped lunch, so for dinner, I had a simple teppanyaki fried noodles (铁板烧炒面) for ¥28. Simple, but satisfying.
