Lao-China Railway 中老铁路
October 27, 2024
We embarked on a journey from Luang Prabang to Kunming,……
我们从老挝琅勃拉邦乘坐中老铁路（LCR）前往中国昆明,。。。
October 27, 2024
We embarked on a journey from Luang Prabang to Kunming, China, via the Lao-China Railway (LCR). This travel route was carefully planned as an opportunity to try a unique means of crossing the border into China. The idea of experiencing this relatively new railway was intriguing, and we looked forward to the adventure.
Before heading to the train station, we witnessed the almsgiving ceremony once more. On our way back, we stopped at the morning market and indulged in a fried cake reminiscent of a childhood treat—a delightful way to start the day.
The drive to the train station, however, was less pleasant. The road was extremely bumpy, as though the train station had been built without considering infrastructure upgrades for access. Upon arrival, our driver dropped us off at the ground-level parking lot. With the elevators and escalators out of service, we had no choice but to lug our bags up the stairs—a less-than-ideal beginning to our railway experience, especially for a station only a few years old.
The train itself, operated by the Yunnan Railway Company, was fully booked. We traveled in a first-class cabin predominantly filled with foreigners carrying bulky luggage that cluttered the hallways. The remaining seats of other coaches were occupied by Chinese tourists. The total journey time was approximately seven hours, including one hour border procedures at both the Laos and China checkpoints.
The border crossing was a tedious process. At the Laos checkpoint, we had to disembark with all our belongings, exit the station, and pass through Laos customs and immigration before re-boarding. Shortly after, the train stopped at the Chinese border station, where we repeated the process. Chinese customs, however, were significantly slower, taking about 40 minutes. By the time we cleared the formalities, we were the last passengers to rejoin the train. While the train ride itself was smooth and enjoyable, the inefficient border procedures made the experience far from seamless. This was enough to dissuade us from attempting another cross-border train journey in Asia.
Arriving in Kunming, however, made up for the challenges of the day. The city’s clean streets and pleasant atmosphere left us with an excellent first impression, making us eager to explore its charm.
2024年10月27日
我们从老挝琅勃拉邦乘坐中老铁路（LCR）前往中国昆明，旨在尝试一种独特的跨境方式。中老铁路作为一条较新的线路让人颇感好奇，我们对这次体验充满期待。
出发前，我们再次观看了清晨的布施仪式。和昨天一样，僧侣们的钵盆迅速装满米饭，然后就倾倒进街边设置的垃圾桶中，这一幕真的让人不忍心。等到仪式结束我们才看到这些食物并未被浪费，而是由组织者和小贩重新销售，这才让我们稍稍宽慰了一些。然而，这种对神圣传统的过度商业化，整个仪式像是一场为游客安排的表演，而非真正的宗教实践让人感到心情沉重，不禁思索：在这个受旅游业深刻影响的时代，是否还有未被改变的纯粹传统？
返回途中，我们在早市停留，品尝了一种油炸小点心，味道让人想起童年的记忆。
前往火车站的路途并不那么顺利。路面颠簸不平，仿佛火车站修建时并没有考虑道路的升级。到达后，司机将我们放在地面停车场。由于电梯和自动扶梯都无法使用，我们不得不提着行李爬楼梯——对于一个才启用几年的车站来说，这是一次不尽如人意的开始。
高铁由云南铁路公司运营，我们乘坐的是一等座车厢，车厢满员。我们因为不是起点站上车，又正好有一组老挝学生去中国，已经几乎包了我们整节车厢，我们上车时行李架早已被大量行李占满，大件行李将过道都堵得水泄不通，感觉不是很舒适。从琅勃拉邦到昆明的总旅程时间约为七小时，其中包括在老挝和中国边境各一个小时的通关手续。
边境通关过程既繁琐又耗时。在老挝边检站，我们需要携带全部行李下车，经过老挝的海关，办完出境手续后再返回列车。上车不久列车抵达中国边检站，我们再次重复这一过程。然而，中国的通关效率更低，当我们完成入境手续返回列车时，已经是最后一批乘客。尽管列车运行平稳，服务也还不错，但边境通关的低效让整个体验远非无缝顺畅。这次经历也让我们以后不太愿意再尝试亚洲的跨境列车了。
到达昆明之后，等办完酒店入住手续就已经是晚餐时间了。去了前台推荐的一家本地餐厅，终于吃上了美味地道的中国菜，好好地享受了一下。
昆明的美丽弥补了旅途中的种种不如意。整洁的街道和宜人的氛围给我们留下了极好的第一印象，让人迫不及待地想探索它的魅力。
Luang Prabang, Lao 琅勃拉邦
October 26, 2024
Chenggang was abruptly awakened at 4:30 AM by……
清晨4点半，被主街上传来的喧闹音乐声惊醒。。。
October 26, 2024
Chenggang was abruptly awakened at 4:30 AM by loud music from the main street. Curious, Chenggang got up to investigate and discovered that an annual running race was scheduled to start at 5:30 AM—a surprisingly early time for such an event. As he wandered the streets, he noticed an endless line of empty small stools neatly arranged along the sidewalks. Vendors were persistently trying to sell him sticky rice and candy, which seemed odd at first.
It soon became clear that these offerings were for the alms-giving ceremony, a sacred tradition deeply woven into Luang Prabang’s culture for centuries.
By around 6:00 AM, the monks began emerging from the temples and nearly every stool along the street was occupied not by locals but by tourists—approximately 90% of them Chinese. Initially moved by what appeared to be a spiritual exchange, Chenggang soon felt disheartened as the ceremony unfolded. The monks, their alms bags and bowls quickly filled, dumped sticky rice and candies into large containers set along the street.
At first, the sight of food being discarded deeply upset him. Later, he learned that the collected food wasn’t wasted but was instead resold by organizers and vendors, a revelation that brought some solace. Still, the over-commercialization of such a sacred tradition left Chenggang with a heavy heart. The ceremony felt more like a staged performance than a genuine spiritual practice. As he walked back, he reflected on whether any truly authentic traditions remained in a world increasingly shaped by tourism.
Before returning to our B&B, we climbed Mount Phousi for a panoramic view of the city. Back at the B&B, the host had prepared a simple but satisfying breakfast. Outside, a bustling morning market offered an array of goods, from fresh seafood to vibrant produce, immersing us in the local culture.
Our day had only just begun as we joined a guided trip to explore a Hmong village, Kuang Si Waterfalls, and Pak Ou Caves.
At Kuang Si Waterfalls, we were enchanted by the multi-tiered cascades and turquoise pools. Though we had brought swimsuits, we chose not to swim, opting instead to hike up to the summit. There, we enjoyed a tranquil moment at the café, surrounded by breathtaking views.
Lunch was served in a serene garden café, where the simple, delicious meal was made even more special by the opportunity to feed bananas to an elephant. Playing with this gentle giant was a highlight of the day.
After lunch, we boarded a boat to visit Pak Ou Caves, limestone grottoes filled with thousands of Buddha statues. While the caves were intriguing, a brief stop at a whiskey factory afterward felt like a waste of time, as neither of us are alcohol drinkers.
The best part of the tour came as we cruised back to the city along the Mekong River. The setting sun bathed the landscape in golden hues, and we witnessed one of the most breathtaking sunsets of our travels.
Later, we wandered through the night market for dinner, but the food and atmosphere fell short of expectations, ending the day on a less satisfying note. Despite this, the mix of awe-inspiring landscapes and thought-provoking cultural experiences made for an unforgettable day in Luang Prabang.
2024年10月26日
清晨4点半，被主街上传来的喧闹音乐声惊醒。带着好奇心，成刚出去一探究竟，发现一场年度跑步比赛计划在5点半开始，有点早了。在街上漫步时，注意到人行道旁整齐排列着一排排小板凳，空无一人。而街边的小贩则不停地向他推销糯米饭和糖果，这一切起初显得有些奇怪。但很快明白了这些是为僧侣布施仪式所准备的。这是一项深深植根于琅勃拉邦文化、延续了几个世纪的神圣传统。
大约6点钟，僧侣们排着队从寺庙中陆续走出来，此时街道上的每一张板凳几乎都被游客占据——其中约90%是中国游客。坐在板凳上的施主们会拿一团煮好的糯米饭和几包糖果零食放在每一位从面前走过的僧侣的小钵盆和布施包中。起初成刚被这场景所打动，但不一会儿，僧侣们的钵盆迅速装满米饭，眼看着他们将米饭和糖果倾倒进街边设置的看似像垃圾桶的大容器中，觉得食物被弃置，太浪费了，他很失望也很难过。
在返回民宿前，我们爬上了普西山（Mount Phousi），俯瞰整个城市的全景。回到民宿后，主人为我们准备了一份简单却令人满意的早餐。民宿门外的街道上，一个热闹的早市正在进行，从海鲜到新鲜农产品，应有尽有，让我们沉浸在当地的生活氛围中。
今天我们参加了导览一日游，参观苗族村庄、光西瀑布（Kuang Si Waterfalls）和帕乌洞（Pak Ou Caves）。
光西瀑布以其层叠的瀑布和湛蓝的水池让我们赞叹不已。游客绝大部分都来自中国。尽管我们带了泳衣，却选择不下水，而是攀登到瀑布的顶端。在山顶的咖啡馆里，被周围的美景所环绕，我们享受了片刻宁静。
看完苗寨爬完山，午餐安排在一个宁静的花园餐厅。食物简单却美味，而更特别的是，我们有机会给花园里的大象喂香蕉。与这只温顺的大象互动是这一天中最令人愉快的经历之一。
午餐后，我们乘船前往帕乌洞，这是一座石灰岩洞穴，里面摆满了数千尊佛像。虽然洞穴颇具吸引力，但随后参观的一家威士忌工厂对我们来说毫无意义，因为我们都不喝酒。
这次行程中最美妙的部分是在乘船沿湄公河返回城市时，夕阳将沿岸的景色笼罩在金色的余晖中，我们目睹了旅途中最壮丽的日落之一。
回到市区后，我们再次去了夜市寻找晚餐。然而，夜市的食物和氛围都让人感到失望。尽管如此，这一天融合了震撼心灵的自然景观和引人深思的文化体验，仍然让我们对琅勃拉邦格外难忘。
Floating Village 浮村
October 25, 2024
During our research on the Tonlé Sap Lake area,……
在做暹粒(Siem Reap)旅游攻略时，。。。
October 25, 2024
During our research on the Tonlé Sap Lake area, we learned about several floating villages, some reportedly occupied by stateless Vietnamese refugees. Intrigued by this fascinating history, we decided to visit one of the floating villages and also see a nearby temple before heading to the airport. We arranged the trip with Mr. Nab, the taxi driver who had picked us up from the airport, for a total of $55.
Mr. Nab met us at our hotel at 8 AM and drove us to Kampong Phluk, a floating village primarily inhabited by Cambodians. Upon arrival, we boarded a large tourist boat, paying $20 each for the trip. Surprisingly, we were the only passengers on the boat, which sailed along the channel and stopped at a tourist center. Along the way, we observed the unique architecture of the village, with stilted homes raised 6 to 9 meters above the ground to adapt to the lake’s drastic water level changes between the rainy and dry seasons. Along the shore, we saw numerous idle tour boats, seemingly waiting for more visitors.
Partway through the ride, a young boy, who appeared to be the boat driver’s son, joined us on board. We later disembarked at a floating rest area, which offered food for purchase and paddle boat rides to explore the mangroves and nearby villages. We opted not to take the paddle boat tour and returned to our boat instead.
To our surprise, rather than heading back to the starting point, the boat sailed to the middle of the lake. The driver informed us she needed to wait for five minutes, though she didn’t explain why. Shortly after, a boat carrying snacks and drinks approached us. We weren’t interested in buying anything, but an older woman on the snack boat played a familiar pity trick, claiming the young boy was hungry and needed a snack. Feeling pressured, we paid $5 for a bag of potato chips for the boy.
After our visit to the floating village, Mr. Nab drove us to Beng Mealea, a temple near the airport. This lesser-known site had far fewer tourists than Angkor Wat and had not been restored, giving it a raw and ancient charm. We wandered through the partially collapsed structures, marveling at the overgrown trees and vines reclaiming the temple.
Finally, we headed to the airport, ready for our next adventure. Our time in Cambodia had been extraordinary. Siem Reap and Angkor Wat offered a wealth of cultural and historical experiences, and we highly recommend visiting to anyone curious about Cambodia’s rich heritage.
We arrived at Luang Prabang Airport after dark and paid a fixed taxi fare at the airport counter. Since our B&B was located near the city center and close to the night market, where cars are not allowed to enter, the driver dropped us off on the outskirts of the market. From there, we walked through the bustling market to reach our B&B.
After dropping off our luggage and settling in, we ventured back into the market in search of something delicious to eat. However, the market was overly crowded, and the food stalls didn’t seem very appealing to us. Instead, we opted for a nearby restaurant that primarily catered to foreigners. The food was decent, and it gave us our first taste of Laotian cuisine—a pleasant introduction to the flavors of Lao.
2024年10月25日
在做暹粒(Siem Reap)旅游攻略时，我们了解到在洞里萨湖 (Tonlé Sap Lake)边有几个浮村，其中居住着一些无国籍的越南难民。我们决定参观一个浮村，并顺便去机场附近的一座寺庙。我们请前几天刚飞到暹粒机场时接我们的出租车司机纳布先生 (Mr. Nab) 为我们安排了这次行程，总费用55美元。
早上8点，纳布先生来到酒店接我们，带我们前往主要由柬埔寨人居住的浮村——磅通普鲁克 (Kampong Phluk)。到达后，我们每人支付了20美元的游船票后，登上了一艘小旅游船，就我们三人。在岸边我们注意到许多停泊的旅游船，但大多空无一人，显然游客并不多。沿途我们看到浮村中独特的高脚房屋，这些房屋高达6至9米，以适应雨季和旱季水位的巨大变化。
行程中，一名小男孩登上了我们的船，看起来可能是船夫的儿子。我们在一个漂浮的休息区下船，这里有食物出售，并提供小舟服务，游客可以划船参观红树林和其他村落。我们选择不参加小舟游览，而是直接返回了我们的船。
令人意外的是，船没有返回出发点，而是驶向了湖中央。当浮村从我们眼前彻底消失时船停了下来，船夫告诉我们需要等待五分钟，但并未解释原因。不久，一艘装满零食和饮料的小船靠近了我们。虽然我们没有任何购买的意愿，但零食船上的老妇人用一个常见的伎俩博取同情，说小男孩饿了，给他买点吃的东西吧。于心不忍，我们让小男孩自己挑喜欢的，最终花了5美元给他买了一袋薯片。这时也终于明白船停湖中央的原因了。
参观完浮村后，纳布先生又带我们去了机场附近的崩密列 (Beng Mealea)，一座鲜为人知的寺庙。与吴哥窟相比，这里的游客非常少，而且寺庙尚未修复，呈现出一种原始的古老魅力。我们漫步在部分坍塌的建筑间，感叹树木和藤蔓对寺庙的“接管”，让人仿佛置身于自然与历史交织的画卷中。
最终，我们前往机场，准备开启下一段旅程。暹粒 (Siem Reap) 和 吴哥窟 (Angkor Wat) 提供了丰富的文化和历史体验。我们强烈推荐这些地方给任何对柬埔寨文化和历史感兴趣的人。这是一段令人难忘的旅程。