Quanzhou 泉州

March 3, 2025

I had preordered a ferry ticket to Gulangyu (鼓浪屿) yesterday, but due to heavy fog in the morning, the ferry service was canceled. With a sudden change of plans, I decided to visit Quanzhou (泉州) instead.

The high-speed train from Xiamen to Quanzhou took only 40 minutes. Upon arrival, I took a Didi to Kaiyuan Temple (开元寺), the largest Buddhist temple in Quanzhou, dating back to the Tang Dynasty. Inside the temple, the East and West Pagodas stand as iconic landmarks of the city. I also explored the Master Hong Yi Memorial Hall, which was particularly interesting. Master Hong Yi, formerly Li Shutong, was a famous artist who introduced Western art forms to China before becoming a renowned Buddhist monk. From the exhibition, I learned that he was also the songwriter of “Farewell” (送别), one of the most famous Chinese farewell songs.

Leaving the temple, I wandered down West Street (西街), the oldest commercial street in Quanzhou. From there, I continued along Zhongshan Road (中山路), lined with traditional Minnan-style buildings. While all the stores were open, the area felt relatively quiet, and I wasn’t particularly impressed.

Before heading Back to Xiamen, I made quick stops at Qingjing Mosque (清净寺) and Guanyue Temple (关岳庙). Qingjing Mosque, built in the Northern Song Dynasty, is China’s oldest Islamic mosque, a testament to the city’s historic connections with the Arab world. I hadn’t realized that Islamic influences had reached this part of China over 900-1000 years ago.

Afterward, I took the train back to Xiamen North Station and then hopped on the subway to Jimei School Village (集美学村). There, I went for another hour-long bike ride on the scenic water trail, enjoying the stunning waterfront views, and I made my way back to Ten Li Park (十里长堤公园)next to the subway station. It was a perfect excuse for some exercise with a great view.

At Ten Li Park, I treated myself to deep-fried pork and rice cake—both were delicious. Though I had hoped to catch a sunset, the sky remained overcast. Nonetheless, I enjoyed the peaceful evening before heading back.

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Four Dishes and One Soup 四菜一汤

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Biking in Xiamen 环岛路骑车