Seoul's Park and Palace 首尔的公园和宫殿
April 16: We visited Seoul Olympic Park today. Olympic Park in Seoul is a sprawling recreational area built to commemorate the 1988 Summer Olympics held in the city. It covers an extensive space and features various facilities and art installations. As we entered the park, our attention was immediately drawn to a series of captivating portraits adorning the sides of the main walkway. We had no idea who they were and why. As we walked closer to the stadium, we encountered an even greater display of posters. Curiosity got the best of us, prompting an impromptu Google search on our phones. A popular South Korean girl group, TWICE, had an opening concert of their 2023 World Tour – "Ready to Be" at the stadium tonight. In the morning, 10 hours before the opening of the "Ready to Be" tour, fans, both girls and guys, were already queuing up outside large tents, eager to procure souvenirs. Such a scene gave us a fascinating glimpse into the world of dedicated fans we weren't familiar with.
The park boasts beautifully landscaped gardens, walking paths, and open spaces for leisure activities. We strolled on the meandered walking paths, went around the tranquil pond, and took many pictures.
From the Olympic Park, we could see the Lotte World Tower, an iconic landmark in Seoul, in the distance. The tower is part of the larger Lotte World complex, which includes the popular Lotte World theme park, shopping malls, hotels, offices, and other entertainment facilities. We went to the shopping mall first to have lunch there. Due to the weekend, the mall was crowded with tourists like us and the locals. Outside the mall was a giant pink bear, a 15-meter tall Bellygom created by the Lotte World to celebrate its 5th-anniversary last year. Many locals took pictures with the giant bear, enjoyed the concert, and bought little bears from the Bellygom store. Witnessing the zeal and enthusiasm of so many young individuals towards a character created primarily for marketing purposes left us amazed.
Bongeunsa Temple is a Buddhist temple in the heart of Seoul, near the bustling Gangnam district. It offers a serene and spiritual retreat from the city's fast-paced environment. Colorful paper lanterns hung over the courtyards through the temple. The visitors could pay to place a prayer note under a lantern. We had to take our shoes off to go inside the halls. In the shrine halls, small statues of Buddha are placed by people who pay tribute to the deceased relatives and friends, a traditional way of remembrance in Asia. The massive twenty-three-meter-tall statue of Maitreya Buddha (The Future Buddha) was impressive. An open Mireuk-jeon Hall of many smaller-size Buddha statues surrounds the tall statue. The temple was well-renovated and provided a unique experience in Buddhist culture in Korea.
Back to the hotel for a short break, then we went to a Sushi place nearby and had sashimi and tempura for dinner. The restaurant was very local, with no one speaking any English. After we placed the order, a robot carried a fried fish dish to our table. We were confused, looking at each other, since we didn't order the dish. The customers on the other table waved a hand gesture that it was okay to pick up. It turned out to be a free appetizer. We enjoyed the fried fish, sashimi, and tempura very much.
April 17: We needed free admission tickets to visit the presidential residence in South Korea called The Korea Blue House. Foreigners are not allowed to book the tickets online. We left the hotel early to ensure we could secure the tickets and took the subway to the Blue House. Although many local tourists were there already, the ticket line for foreigners was nonexistent. Showing the passports and receiving the tickets, we walked into the campus and were greeted by the traditional blue-tiled roofs of the presidential residence building. The current president no longer lives and works there since it became a public park in 2022. The rooms inside the buildings were spacious, and the tour provided insight into the nation's governance and history. The palace ground was on the ancient palace site with historical markers and scenic walking paths. We wandered every corner of the compound and considered it the best public park in Seoul.
After visiting the Blue House, somehow, we made our way to a buffet café in a skyscraper office building. To our surprise, this buffet café was quite different from the usual ones we were accustomed to. It resembled more of a company cafeteria, offering a limited selection of food items, including meat, vegetables, and soup. What caught our attention was a kitchen table in the corner of the room, equipped with several portable stoves, where people were cooking eggs on their own. Feeling intrigued and eager to immerse ourselves in the local customs, we followed suit and cooked two eggs ourselves, a refreshing change from the typical buffet experience. Some individuals were also opting to cook instant noodles, a popular comfy food for Korean. The atmosphere allowed us to feel like locals, providing a glimpse into the everyday lives of working people in Seoul. The experience was delightful and added a unique touch to our dining adventure.
Gyeongbokgung Palace, located in Seoul, is Korea's largest and most iconic royal palace. It was the main palace during the Joseon Dynasty and is renowned for its stunning architecture and picturesque surroundings. We were just in time for the guard change ceremony. The guards, dressed in traditional Joseon Dynasty costumes, performed a series of choreographed movements and marches with colorful flags, traditional weapons, and drums. We enjoyed the showcase.
The palace complex features various buildings, including the Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, Geunjeongjeon Hall, and the National Palace Museum of Korea. The locals and foreigners, dressed in rented traditional hanbok attire, filled the palace ground. The vibrant colors and intricate designs of the hanbok attire added a sense of elegance and historical charm to the atmosphere.
To add another touch to our Korean historical and cultural tour in Seoul, we visited Bukchon Hanok Village, a residential area of well-preserved Hanok houses near the Gyeongbokgung Palace. Strolling through the narrow alleyways and quaint streets of Bukchon Hanok Village, we appreciated the beauty of the Hanok architecture and experienced the ambiance of ancient Korea. But we felt the area was too crowded and too "new" compared to Andong Hanok Village.
The dinner at the all-you-can-eat Korean grill was something we had been eyeing for a while. Every time we passed the restaurant, it seemed to be bustling, with customers enjoying the delicious grilled pork belly and chops. Peeking through the window, we couldn't help but feel envious of their dining experience. So, we made a promise to ourselves that we would give it a try at least once. Last night, we had attempted to dine there, but the wait for a table was too long, and we didn't want to wait. Determined to try it today, we arrived early and were thrilled to get a table immediately. As we settled in, the waitress came and said something to us. We had no clue what she had just said, and she didn't understand English either. Luckily, the table next to us was a young couple from China, and they did the translation for us. We were very grateful. The buffet included many traditional Korean dishes, but most important, the meat. We grilled beef, pork, and chicken ourselves, which were delicious. It was a feast, and we ate way too much. Now we understand why the restaurant was always crowded.
首尔奥林匹克公园和总统府
4/16:今天我们参观了首尔奥林匹克公园。该公园是为1988年首尔夏季奥运会而建,它占地广阔,拥有各种娱乐设施和户外艺术作品。当我们一进入公园时,我们的目光就被步道两侧的一系列迷人肖像所吸引。她们是谁我们一无所知。走近体育场时,我们看到更多更大的海报。好奇心促使我们在手机上进行了即兴的谷歌搜索。原来她们是著名的韩国女子组合TWICE今晚将在体育场举行她们的2023世界巡演——“Ready to Be”的首场演岀。距离“Ready to Be”巡演开场还有10个小时,但男男女女年轻的粉丝们,已经开始在大帐篷外排起长队,购买纪念品。这样的场景让我们见证了粉丝世界的狂热,对我们来说是这一个陌生但又好奇的领域。
奥林匹克公园拥有美丽的景观花园、蜿蜒的步道和开阔的休闲空间。我们在迂回曲折的步道上漫步,绕过宁静的池塘,拍摄了许多照片。
从奥林匹克公园可以看到首尔标志性的乐天世界塔。这座塔是乐天世界综合体的一部分,包括深受欢迎的乐天世界主题公园、购物中心、酒店、办公室和其他娱乐设施。我们先去了购物中心,因为周末,购物中心挤满了像我们这样的游客和当地人。购物中心外展示着一只巨大的粉红色大熊,称为Bellygom,15米高的大熊是乐天世界为庆祝开业五周年而制作的。许多当地人都围着这只巨熊合影,在专卖店外排着长队购买了小熊作为纪念品。看到这么多年轻人对一个主要用于营销目的的角色如此热情,让我们感到惊讶。
奉恩寺是位于繁忙的首尔市中心江南区的一座佛教寺庙。寺庙的庭院上悬挂着色彩斑斓的纸灯,游客可以支付一定费用后在灯笼下放置祈愿纸条。我们需要脱鞋进入大殿。在神殿里,人们会为已故的亲戚和朋友放置小佛像,这是亚洲传统的纪念方式。巨大的二十三米高的弥勒佛(未来佛)雕像令人印象深刻。围绕着高大的雕像放置许多尺寸较小的佛像,形成开放式的弥勒殿。
回到酒店休息片刻,然后我们去附近的一家寿司店,晚餐点了生鱼片和天妇罗。这家餐厅非常地道,但没有人会说英语。我们点完餐后,一个机器人将一道炸鱼小菜送到了我们的桌子边。我们相互看看,因为我们并没有点这道菜,正在不知该拿还不拿时,隔壁桌的客人示意我们可以拿走,原来这是一道免费的开胃菜。我们非常喜欢这道炸鱼、生鱼片和天妇罗。
4/17:韩国的总统府, 又称青瓦台, 对外免费开放参观,但需门票。外国人不能在线预订票,必须亲自前往门口领取。为了确保能够获得参观票,我们早早离开了酒店,乘坐地铁前往青瓦台。虽然到达时已经有不少当地游客,但外国游客寥寥无几,没人排队。我们出示护照领取门票后,踏进了总统府大院,迎接我们的是总统府大楼上传统的蓝色琉璃瓦顶。自从2022年成为公共公园以来,现任总统不再住在这里工作居住。建筑内的房间宽敞,参观让我们对韩国的治理和历史有了更多的了解。宫殿的场地建在古老的宫殿遗址上,我们沿着设有历史标志和风景优美的步行道漫步,尽情游览了总统大院的每一个角落,我们觉得这里是首尔最好的公共公园之一。
参观完青瓦台后,阴差阳错我们来到一座摩天大楼办公楼里的自助餐厅。让我们惊讶的是,这家自助餐厅与我们通常习惯的自助餐有很大不同。它更像是一家公司食堂,提供有限的食物选择,包括肉类、蔬菜和汤品。引起我们注意的是房间角落里的厨房桌,上面配有几个便携式炉灶,人们可以自己煎鸡蛋。我们感到好奇,当然不会放弃这个机会,于是也自己煎了两个鸡蛋,这给了我们一种与典型的自助餐不同的新鲜感。有些人还选择自己煮方便面,韩国流行的舒适食品。这种氛围让我们感觉像当地人,瞥见了首尔上班族的日常生活。这个经历非常愉快,并为我们的用餐探险增添了独特的乐趣。
位于首尔的景福宫是韩国最大、最具代表性的皇宫。它在朝鲜王朝时期是主要的宫殿,因其壮丽的建筑和优美的环境而闻名。我们恰好赶上了换岗仪式,看到身着传统朝鲜王朝服装的卫兵们手持五颜六色的旗帜、传统武器和鼓表演了一系列编排精妙的仪式。与其他换岗仪式相比,我们觉的这次表演是最好的。
欣赏完仪式后,我们继续探索景福宫内的建筑和庭院。其中一些建筑物已经有数百年的历史,但修复得十分完好。景福宫金碧辉煌的建筑群包括景福阁、勤政殿和韩国国立宫殿博物馆等建筑。当地居民和外国游客身着租借的传统韩服(hanbok),鲜艳的颜色和精美的设计让传统韩服散发出优雅的历史魅力,也为宫殿的场地增添了一抹缤纷色彩。
接着,我们前往位于景福宫附近的北村韩屋村,这里是一个保存完好的传统韩屋居住区。漫步在北村韩屋村狭窄的小巷和古朴的街道上,我们欣赏到了传统韩屋建筑的美丽,并感受了古代韩国的氛围。 我们不时能看到一些当地居民穿着传统韩服,给整个村落增添了一份活力。不过与安东韩屋村相比,我们觉得这个地方有些拥挤,也显得有些过于“新”。
我们住的旅馆附近韩式烤肉店,每次经过这家餐厅,总是看到客人在享受美味的烤五花肉和排骨。透过窗户窥探,那种无限量自助韩式烤肉的用餐体验太吸引人。我们决定至少要尝试一次。昨晚我们试图在那里用餐,但餐厅客满,等位的时间实在太长,我们不想等那么久,便找了家寿司店。但决定今天一定要再试试,于是早早来到餐厅,非常高兴没等,立即入座。坐下后,女服务员过来和我们说了些话。我们根本不懂她说了什么,而她也不懂英语。幸运的是,隔壁桌的一对来自中国的年轻夫妇为我们做了翻译。我们非常感激他们的帮助。自助餐包括许多传统的韩国菜,但最重要的是肉类。我们自己烤牛肉、猪肉和鸡肉,每一道都非常美味,感受到了传统韩国烤肉的独特魔力。也明白了为什么这家餐厅总是这么挤。