Journey of Our Dreams (追梦)

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Icy Strait Point

Oct. 6, 2023: Today, the cruise ship docked at Icy Strait Point. This pier was constructed to promote the local tourism. Nearby is a small town called Hoonah, with around eight to nine hundred permanent residents. The entire area, except for the national forest, belongs to the Alaska Native (referred to as Native Americans in other states) Cooperation. The facilities are excellent; after disembarking, you can take a free cable car to the pier center, where there are restaurants, gift shops, and more. However, we did not stay there; instead, we walked along the seaside trail to Hoonah, about two kilometers away.

Initially, we were hesitant about walking there because this area has the highest density of brown bears in the world. We could take a shuttle bus to the town if we chose not to walk. Later, we met a couple walking to the town, so we joined them, which gave us some courage. The scenery along the way was beautiful, and it naturally compelled us to slow down and enjoy the calm and serene seascape.

The town of Hoonah doesn't have any particularly notable tourist attractions. After walking around, we still couldn't forget the desire to see brown bears and appreciate the natural grandeur of the forest here. Outside the town government office, we hired a local indigenous guide who drove us to Tongass National Forest to look for brown bears. He even carried a hunting rifle and led us on foot down to a small stream. Along the way, there were traces of brown bears everywhere, and we even saw the snow-white remnants of roots the bears had just eaten. He thought the bear should not be far away, asking if we wanted to continue. However, we decided to turn back, not knowing how we would react if we encountered a large brown bear. When we returned to the car, the guide told us that few tourists dared to go to that stream to look for brown bears.

Along the way, the guide also got out of the car to mimic the call of a deer, and one time, a female deer ran towards us from the woods. The guide said it was a hunting technique used by the locals. Throughout the journey, he shared a lot about their lives and culture, and we gained a lot of insights and learned many things. After four hours, we saw many traces left by brown bears but did not see any bears.

Upon returning to the pier and returning to the cruise ship, we unexpectedly saw a brown bear in the woods near the bridge, confirming that there were quite a few brown bears in this area.

十月六日

游船今天停靠Icy Strait Point,这码头是为促进当地旅游经济而兴建的。附近有个小镇叫Hoonah,有八,九百居民。整个地区除了国家森林外都归属于阿拉斯加原居民(其他州叫印地安人)集团。兴建的设施不错,下船后就可乘坐免费缆车到码头中心,那里有饭店,礼品商点等。但我们并没有在那里停留,而是沿着海边的步行道漫步走去二公里外的小镇Hoonah。起初还为该不该走去纠结,因为这地区是世界上棕熊密度最高的地方,不走的话可以坐专车去小镇。后来碰到一对夫妇也徒步去小镇,我们就与他们结伴,也算是给我们壮个胆。沿途风景优美,让人不由自主地放慢脚步,欣赏平静安逸的海景。

小镇Hoonah上没有什么特别的旅游景点,转了一圈后,还是念念不忘想去看棕熊,欣赏这里自然大森林。

在镇政府门外找了位当地原住民导游,他开车带我们俩去Tongass 国家森林找棕熊去。他还带着猎枪带我们下车徒步一段下到一小溪,一路上到处都是棕熊留下的痕迹,看到熊刚吃完的菜根,菜根颜色还是雪白的,他说熊应该就在不远,问我们是否还想继续往前,我们觉得还是见好就收,回头吧。如果我们真的碰上大棕熊,不知我们俩会有什么样的反应。回到车上导游告诉我们,少之又少的游客敢下到那个小溪去找棕熊的。

沿途导游还下车学鹿叫,有一次一只母鹿还真的从树林里朝我们奔来。导游说这是他们当地人打猎的技巧。一路上他与我们聊了许多他们的生活和文化,我们受益匪浅,学了不少东西。前前后后开了四个小时,看到了许多棕熊留下的痕迹,但就是没看到熊。

回到码头走回游轮时,却在桥边的树林里看到一个棕熊,也证明了这里的棕熊还真不少。