Journey of Our Dreams (追梦)

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Hiking the Mont Blanc Massif, Day 8 - Next Stop 勃朗峰山脉徒步游第八天

August 3, 2024: Today, it was time to move on again. We bid farewell to France and made our way to Courmayeur, Italy. Although we had taken a cable car to the area when we first arrived at Mont Blanc, we hadn’t yet explored the town itself.

Getting from the small town of Les Contamines-Montjoie to Courmayeur wasn’t straightforward. We had to return to Chamonix and then take a tunnel to Courmayeur. Our initial plan was to take buses the entire way to avoid carrying our luggage on foot. After checking out in the morning, we boarded the Y84 bus, intending to transfer to the Y82 bus at Le Fayet. However, our first bus was delayed by a few minutes at each stop, and by the time we arrived at Le Fayet, we could only watch as our connecting bus drove away. Thankfully, we had chosen Le Fayet as our transfer point for another reason—it also has a train station. In case we missed the bus, we could switch to the train, which we promptly did. We quickly bought tickets for the first two stops, believing that the third stop and beyond would be free based on our previous experience. However, shortly after boarding the train, ticket inspectors informed us that we were required to purchase tickets for the entire journey. Being unfamiliar with the local rules, we paid the difference. Interestingly, instead of a penalty, we received a 50% discount on the additional fare, leaving us even more puzzled by the regulations.

When we finally returned to Chamonix, we were relieved. We still had plenty of time, and we had already purchased tickets for the direct bus from Chamonix to Courmayeur. The tunnel leading from Chamonix to Courmayeur was heavily congested with traffic. After a long journey involving both buses and a train, we eventually arrived on the other side of Mont Blanc, in the Italian town of Courmayeur.

Our hotel was conveniently located near the bus stop. After settling in and taking a brief rest, we set out to explore the town center. The atmosphere in Courmayeur was lively and relaxed, with a vacation-like vibe compared to the hiker-heavy areas of Chamonix and Les Contamines-Montjoie. The main street, although modest in size, was bustling with activity. People were strolling about, many with their dogs, adding to the town's relaxed charm. The street was lined with restaurants and bars, all of which were busy. Outdoor seating was full, with people enjoying drinks and snacks in the warm evening air, making the atmosphere feel both vibrant and inviting. Courmayeur offered a different, more leisurely feel, perfect for unwinding and enjoying the scenic surroundings.

The hotel receptionist recommended an Italian restaurant and kindly called to reserve a table for us. Dinner here is typically served late, and the restaurant, Pierre Alexis 1877, didn’t open until 7:30 PM. Located on a quiet side street, the restaurant occupies a building dating back to 1877. Upon sitting down, we discovered that the restaurant was listed in the 2024 Michelin Guide. They prepared an excellent all-vegan meal for our daughter, and our appetizers and main courses were equally impressive. It was the most refined dinner we’d had on this trip, though it was a bit on the pricey side.

勃朗峰山脉徒步游第八天-再转下一站

2024年8月3日: 又到挪窝的时候了,今天我们与法国说再见,前往意大利的库马约尔 (Courmayeur)。刚来勃朗峰时我们曾坐了过山缆车到过那里,但没去小镇。

从我们住的小镇莱斯康塔米纳 (Les Contamines-Montjoie )到Courmayeur 小镇不是太方便,必须先回到霞慕尼 (Chamonix)再过隧道到Courmayeur。原计划是全程坐大巴,这样不需要拖着行李走路。早晨退了房间后先坐上Y84大巴,计划在Le Fayet 转Y82大巴。结果我们第一辆大巴每停一站就晚几分钟,当我们终于来到Le Fayet时𨚫眼巴巴看着第二辆大巴在我们面前开走。好在当初选Le Fayet 转车还有个原因,那里是火车站,怕万一错过第二辆大巴可以改坐火车。结果还真用上了,赶紧买了前二站的火车票,前几天来时知道第三站以后应该是免费的。可上了火车后不久就开始查票了,说是按规定必须买全程票,要补票。人生地不熟,也不懂这里规矩,补就补吧。有意思的是不但没有罚款,还打了半折,还真不懂这里规矩了。

再次回到Chamonix时总算松了口气,时间还多,第三辆从Chamonix 到Courmayeur直达大巴的票是提前买好。从Chamonix 到Courmayeur的隧道口堵车堵的历害。经过大巴,火车再换大巴我们终于来到勃朗峰的另一边,意大利的Courmayeur小镇。旅馆就在大巴站附近,非常方便。

入住后稍稍休息一下,我们便出门去镇中心熟悉环境。镇中心人很多,之前在Chamonix 和Les Contamines-Montjoie二个小镇看到的大都是大包小包的爬山者,而这里却更像一个度假地。一条不怎么大的主街上许多人牵着狗蹓跶。街道二边的饭店和洒吧桌椅都搭在外面,生意兴隆。大家都在喝酒,吃小点心。

旅馆前台推荐了一家意大利饭店,并帮我们打电话预订了座位。这里晚饭都吃得很晚,订的饭店7:30才开门。我们晚餐的饭店Pierre Alexis 1877躲在在一条比较安静的小路上,是一栋1877年的老房子。坐下才发现饭店上了2024年米其林指南餐厅榜。为女儿专门做的全素晚餐非常棒,我们的开胃菜和主食也相当不错,是这次旅行中吃了一顿最像模像样的晚餐,就是价格贵了一点。